Peter Bennett writes: >If two leads, it could be a >current transformer - do you have an ammeter that shows the current in >the red wire? It could be a CT, although it seems a bit large. One word of caution: Current transformers can generate LETHAL voltages on their output if there is no load (meter) attached. Ensure that the wire through the middle (the red #6 wire) is NOT energized before you poke around. Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

jim laudermilch writes: >Does anyone have a simple solutions to removing the semi rigid white waste >hose from the barb to which it has been clamped for a number of years? Use a knife and split the hose back about 1 inch. >How >about simplifying sliding new hose in place? A heat gun set on medium and KY jelley. The KY jelley is glycerine based and hardens up when it dries, adding a bit of sealing. I learned both of these tricks from a professional marine pipefitter, and they really work. Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

The easiest thing to do with these type of low-end products is to take a quick peek at the DC input cables. First, 5000 watts @ 110 VAC is equivalent to roughly 400 amps at 12 VDC, even assuming 100% efficiency. 400 amps will require 4/0 cable, which is roughly the diameter of 1/2 garden hose. I don't see that on this unit. What I do see looks like about #10 cable, which is rated at 60 amps or 720 watts. That's probably a pretty realistic rating for the unit. If you drew even 2400 watts (200 amps @ 12 VDC) through #10, it would melt the insulation within minutes. But you wouldn't ever draw that amount, of course, since you have provided overcurrent protection based on both NEMA and AYCB ratings, and you've also taken into account both the insulation temperature rating and the ampacity derating when cable is installed in engine spaces. Right? By the way here is a link to a useful set of tables: http://www.marinco.com/page/wire-tech-data Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

ryan.healy@healyautogroup.com writes: >Does anyone have a good source for oil absorbing pads safe for engine room >use? I have a 45 year old Detroit Diesel, so trust me when I tell you I go through these things in bulk (I lose about half a quart of oil a day, I know that sounds like a lot but then again the engine holds 8 gallons of oil). In any event, go to a commercial boat yard or lubricant supply house and buy a bale of the good 3M oil absorbant pads. I get the ones that are about 20 inches square. Here's a link: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=7717&familyName=3M+Oil+Sorbents I get my at my local commercial shipyard for about $50 per bale of 100. The only problem is finding a place to stow them, they are pretty bulky. Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

"Jean & Michael" writes: > "Jailbreaking the iPhone is not a good idea. It exposes it to viruses like >the one recently from Australia. There is also a lot of info hacking and >hijacking going on now with jailbroken iPhones". Complete BS. I've run a jailbroken phone for 24 months (we develop iPhone software and that was the only way to do it in the early days). If you're smart enough to hack an iPhone, you're smart enough to either (a) not do stupid stuff or (b) keep a special hacked phone around for fun and games. The equivalent T&T statement would be "Running 2 micron filters is not a good idea. They can clog when you drop plastic spouts into your tank. There is also the risk that your engine might stall when you stop for your mandatory customs exit inspection in Key West." Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

There is one additional issue here that I do not think has received the attention it should, and that is the concept of advancing the "greater good". I cruise with both pilothouse VHFs on, one monitoring 16 and the other monitoring the local Canadian Coast Guard channel. I do this not ONLY so I can hear someone hailing me (which let's face it is mighty rare) but so that I may be of assistance if someone else needs help. So far, in 5 summers of boating, there HAVE been times when help is required. One was a tow, and a few times when I was able to provide a relay to a boat out of range of the CG. Now, you might argue that this is not really a "requirement", and you would be right. But on the other hand, if I ever have to call for help, it sure would be nice if my fellow boaters were listening. In fact, it might mean the difference between life of death for me, or my mom, or my dad, or my son. You might want to think about that the next time you turn your radio off. Scott Welch "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

SeaLubber7@aol.com writes: >I have a project boat, actually maybe two, but I have some DIY questions >for the experienced group. It seems that the shrimp fleet of homemade boats >generally have drystack exhausts, para-vane stablizers, and home made keel >coolers. I've got a boat that I'd like to try one or more of these concepts >on and wondered if you guys could give me some insight into design and >particulars or sources for info. Maybe it will keep me off the list over the > >winter. My two cents: 1) Dry stacks: I installed a new dry stack in Island Eagle. It's pretty strai ght-forward. Your best bet is to just find the welder who does most of the sh rimp boats and pick his brains. 2) Paravanes: quite a bit more complex, because the point loads can be substa ntial. You may want to chat with a naval architect. The vanes can be easily w elded up. 3) Home-made keel coolers: if you have a metal boat, not too hard, and again talk to your local welder. If you have wood or fiberglass, much much harder b ecause it's difficult to go through the hull. You might find that but the tim e you get through with the futzzing around, it would be easier and less expen sive to buy one. That's what I did for my genset. I used one from Walter: htt p://www.waltergear.com/kc.htm Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out ." - John Wooden

Henry Quigley writes: >I KNOW what wire rope IS; >I just can't imagine using it as an anchor rode. > >But I guess in this world >some people would believe just about anything. Every fishboat in the Paific Northwest, and I mean EVERY one I have ever seen, uses wire rope as an anchor rode, usually with 50 or 100 feet of chain as a leader. Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

R C Smith Jr writes: >To keep from having to fuel a second compressor, see if you can fit a normal >household-type reefer...with the auto icemaker. CHEAP!...compared to the >stand-alone icemakers. FWIW, after a lot of looking I found that Sub Zero makes a compact (undercounter) freezer with icemaker, and that's what I put on Island Eagle. I subsequently found that U-Line makes an undercounter fridge with built-in icemaker, and I ended up putting one of those in my house. I'm not particularly happy with either one. If was was doing Island Eagle again, I would DEFINITELY try and fit in an apartment-size (3/4 height) fridge-freezer combo. However, I have looked around and have not been able to find one of those with an icemaker. Scott Welch "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

Andy Woods writes: >Professionals who need to apply terminals to conductors a lot use the >ratcheting style crimper to mitigate a medical malady called Carpal Tunnel >Syndrome. CTS is indeed serious. However, I have to report that the force required to use the Ancor ratcheting crimper is actually GREATER than the Klein crimpers. In fact, because the handles of the Ancor are even further apart when you start to crimp (about 45 degrees), I found that my wrist and hands were MUCH more painful than with the Kleins (where the handles are only about 15 degrees when you start). YMMV, as always. Scott Welch "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden