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List: trawlers@lists.trawlering.com
From: ronald barr
 
TWL: Boat enclosure materials
Wed, Jul 9, 2003 2:36 PM
I recommend using 40 mil Strataglass all around. I am not sure what you mean by screens but what we did, which is possible with a hardtop, is install an extra track so sun shielding screens can be installed and clipped at the bottom of the "windows".
List: trawlers@lists.trawlering.com
From: David
 
Re: TWL: Hatteras blisters and other Things
Fri, Jan 16, 2004 4:10 PM
The newer 1980 42 LRC Skooch has about 50 mils of Trinidad epoxy built up on her bottom and no blisters of any kind. Try to get me to remove the build up of epoxy paint as so many have recommended including Pettit, no way. Couple spots chiped off so . . . MarineTex and yet more Trinidad.
List: trawlers@lists.trawlering.com
From: Brian Smyth
 
TWL: re: foam in bilge...
Wed, Mar 3, 2004 11:39 AM
However last year our foam supplier told us that there was essentially no difference between the fire rated foam and the regular foam, and that the fire rated foam had lost it's mil spec rating anyway. So, we are sticking with the no fire paint as a way to inhibit fire spread.
List: trawlers@lists.trawlering.com
From: Jim Fidler
 
Re: T&T: Stratoglass
Thu, Mar 17, 2005 4:35 AM
I think the current enclosure is Crystal Clear 40 mil . The up charge for the Stratoglass in my case is an additional $500. Any Comments or suggestions ? Any recommendations in the Tampa , St Pete Area? Lynn
List: trawlers@lists.trawlering.com
From: JE1449@aol.com
 
Foaming a tank
Thu, Oct 27, 2005 8:50 PM
Foam came to mind and it occurred to me that I could line both the tank and the hull w/ plastic (say 4 mil) to asist in future removals if necessary, but perhaps cut out a series of holes in both the hull and tank sides of the plastic sheeting, so that there could be some adhesion to keep the foam in place, but making the cutting out quite easy down the
List: trawlers@lists.trawlering.com
From: Mike Maurice
 
Re: T&T: Bronze vs. Brass
Fri, Jan 20, 2006 8:03 PM
From >the MIL-STD-889 galvanic table, I see that Brass is more reactive to >steel than copper would be. > Dale's concerns about this are well founded but in this case probably not necessary. The issue of corrosion reaction is a valid one, but where there is no water, fresh or salt involved there is also very little opportunity for corrosion.
List: trawlers@lists.trawlering.com
From: Keith
 
Re: T&T: Electrical connections
Mon, Sep 25, 2006 6:47 PM
Check out the selection of crimp fittings and tools at: http://www.terminaltown.com/ They have high quality nylon crimp fittings, some even mil-spec. You can get them with heat shrink tubing already on there. For fittings in wet areas, I fill the fitting with dielectric silicone grease, double crimp the wire in place, and then shrink the tubing.
List: trawlers@lists.trawlering.com
From: Bob Clinkenbeard
 
Re: T&T: Symbol boat question
Fri, Jan 12, 2007 11:55 AM
1.3 mil for a weekend cruiser? Can this be right? Is this boat's tankage too little for it's size and ability? Bob Clinkenbeard 24' custom trailer trawler http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-aboardbobbinalong
List: trawlers@lists.trawlering.com
From: Bob H
 
Re: T&T: Chicago to mobile
Fri, Sep 9, 2011 12:31 PM
.** > mil/NIC2/default.cfm . > Click on Nav Charts. You can download. > > Go to Corps of Engineers Louisville District for Ohio River, Corps of > Engineers Nashville for Cumberland and Tennessee Rivers. You can > download. > > Go to Corps of Engineers Mobile District for Tenn-Tom.
List: trawlers@lists.trawlering.com
From: LAL
 
The Price of Antifreeze
Thu, Jun 28, 2018 4:28 PM
This is the first year I have been able to find the actual named brand of the antifreeze, and not just a brand that claims to meet the mil-specs that Iveco states. It is made in Turkey from EU import chemicals, but further research indicates that no one knows of a Turkish brand made in country that they would be willing to use.