I do have an opinion on this, but it's just an opinion. I have friends who built an aluminum boat, and they used a nonskid decking from Vetus, like this: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=12357&SHOPZILLA I've walked on this and the nonskid qualities of this are incredible. You stick it down with contact cement. Lasts about 20 years. A bit industrial-looking, but not out of place on a steel boat. Scott Welch FirstClass Product Manager www.firstclass.com Those who make no mistakes rarely make anything.

astonj@rogers.com writes: >a tech question, is it possible to run the intelligent battery charger, >using the generator and at the same time put charge into the batteries from >the alternator as the main engine is running? Yes. One caveat, you might want to double-check the sizing of your primary battery wiring and your main disconnect. When I run my main engine alternator (140 amps) plus my Xantrex inverter in charge mode (another 150 amps) the 3/0 cable and switch get warm to the touch. This winter I'm switching to the biggest Blue Sea switch and 4/0 cable. > >We have one huge double bank of 6 volt wet cells that provides about 1400 >amp hours. Because we have been anchoring a lot we are having a hard time >putting back the amps that the frig and freezer relentlessly eat every night. Yes, I noticed this as well. The problem for me is that my charger (150 amp) is just not big enough. You might want to investigate a bigger charger. Ideally you want to absorb as much of the genset output as possible, to minimize genset run time. Scott Welch FirstClass Product Manager www.firstclass.com "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

"Larry N. Brown" writes: >I'm installing my floscan instruments on the FB and part of the installation >will require 3 toggle switches. Looked in WM catalogue and they wanted nearly >$20/switch. Anyone have a less expensive source? I like the quality and construction of the Blue Sea "WeatherDeck" Series products, for example this one: http://bluesea.com/category/7/27/products/4304 Scott Welch FirstClass Product Manager www.firstclass.com "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

"Henry" writes: > I have been planning for a while to build two engine guards for the >front of my Yanmar engines. ... > Suggestions? Yes, a couple of suggestions. I also had a couple of similar problems. My main engine had no guards on the alternator belts, and my genset also came with no belt guards. For the main engine, I was bemoaning my lack of guards at a local engine shop, and the foreman pulled out a guard that they had taken off a new John Deere when they installed a custom hydraulic pump. He gave it to me for free, and after a bit of welding to make mounts and then a quick trip to the powder coaters, I had a beautiful custom-looking dual-alternator belt guard: http://www.islandeagle.net/systems/00052BD2-008583DB.8/DSCF1455-1.jpg My genset was a bit simpler, I just made a template out of cardboard, used a jig say to cut out some 1/8" aluminum, and then bent a 90 degree angle on one side. Add a bit of powder coating and Bob's your uncle, as we say up here: http://www.islandeagle.net/systems/00052BD2-008583DB.6/DSCF1409.jpg I would not bother with Kee clamps and the like. Also the guards should be mounted to the engine, not the beds. Just make a cardboard template, bend up some aluminum, and get it powder coated. You might also want to check local marine shops to see if they have any junker guards lying around. Scott Welch FirstClass Product Manager www.firstclass.com "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

"Richard Tomkinson" writes: >Add to your critical elements: the relay set driving your reversing pump. Good point. In my case the autopilot uses a solid-state driver, and I am duplicating that box in the backup autopilot. Scott Welch FirstClass Product Manager www.firstclass.com "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

Mike Maurice writes: >A brand new installed Rule Bilge pump that won't pump. There appears to >be nothing wrong with it. But, the voltage goes to zero when the on >switch is activated, but if it's a short the breaker is not tripping... >And it's wired with the correct polarity; just to stay a step ahead of >you super sleuths, the pump was replaced and still the same result. I'd bet 99:1 that this was caused by a corroded fuse holder or a failed breaker, resulting in a high-resistance connection. The quickest way to detect this is to place a voltmeter across the fuse or breaker with the load off. Voltage should be zero. The apply the load and see what the voltage is. If it's anything other than zero you have found your culprit. BTW, in my toolbox I carry a bunch of 18" leads with insulated alligator clips on both ends. Radio Shack sells them for 75 cents each in ten-packs. Get the larger ones, about 20 gauge. In a pinch you can use them to hook up radios, bypass fuses, hold meter leads in place, and even jumper busted starter keyswitches. Well worth the money. In this case you would just jumper the bad fuse or breaker. Scott Welch FirstClass Product Manager www.firstclass.com "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

"Ed Bruette" writes: >Or, you could stick with the single engine and use a bow and stern thruster. Come now gents: single engine, no bow thruster. It keeps the heart healthy! Scott Welch FirstClass Product Manager www.firstclass.com "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

Peter Bennett writes: >Yes - NMEA occasionally adds new sentences but I think most things >will still work. If your GPS has a choice of NMEA versions, you may >need to use the earlier version. For what it's worth, the "0183" in NMEA-0183 refers to "Version 01, 1983", so the radar (made in 1990) should have no problems receiving data NMEA-0183 data from a modern GPS. Scott Welch FirstClass Product Manager www.firstclass.com "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

tbw@comcast.net writes: >Can anyone comment on a 24 volt pump they have had good luck with? Most folks seem to go with small engine-type fuel pumps (e.g. Walbro). With two 1000 gallon (4000 litre) tanks, that was not going to cut it for me. I went with a centrifugal pump, a Groco CP-20. This is rated at about 10 GPM, in practice I find it does almost exactly 10 litres a minute through parallel Racor 1000 filters. It's controlled by an 30 minute Intermatic timer switch, allowing me to transfer and/or polish up to 300 litres at a time. The centrifugal pump must be lower than the tank, but I've had excellent results so far. For more details see http://www.islandeagle.net/systems/fuel Scott Welch

DandMYachts@aol.com writes: >some time back someone advised there were 2 very good books on marine >wiring??? anyone remeber which 2 they were ?? My two favorite are Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual" and Charlie Wing's "Boatowner's Illustrated Handbook of Wiring". Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration Solutions Group www.firstclass.com "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden