russtrit@iamerica.net writes: >> Anybody got any good solutions to the >> rotten egg smell from the head, on the >> first flush after a few days away from >> the boat? I believe bad smell is caused by stagnant water from wherever you're docked (creek, bay, harbour) ("little dead seacritter bodies floating around in the intake hose", as Rick the Mouseherder calls it) . I overcame this smelly situation by leaving head in "Dry-Bowl" until I'm in open water again. While docked, I flush with fresh water only. Nothing fancy, just have a two gallon plastic container with fresh tap-water sitting next to the head and the last thing I do before leaving the boat is to flush the head with some fresh water and leave some of it in the bowl. If the head must be used while docked, I use fresh water only, leaving the valve in "Dry-Bowl" all the time. Another liveaboard taught me that trick and we're all using it now. No chemicals, no plumbing changes - no smell. George of Scaramouche, docked in a very stagnant bay of Lake Ontario, Canada

baumgart@starrstuff.com writes: > Anyways, I put on 5 coats. >After this much, the plain Cetol gives the wood an orange tint. >However, >it looks great, wears well, and everyone on our dock gave plenty of >compliments. Next time try Armada. It is practically the same stuff but has less tint to it. BTW the label says three coats, which I find sufficient. But then I live in Canada where the sun is less severe than down south (so they tell me). > > >Invest in the best brush you can afford. Nothing makes the job >harder - >after days of sanding - than having brush hairs constantly falling >out. I use these inexpensive sponge brushes. No hair to fall out and they are so cheap that you just throw them away after use - except thrifty me: For just overnight storage, I wrap the sponge brush in aluminium foil and put it in the freezer. Next day they're just like yesterday.... Ciao - George of Scaramouche in Lake Ontario

rmcleran@ix.netcom.com writes: >Perhaps it depends on the quality of the teak or the refinishing >process! > >Al Pilvinis wrote: >> >> The problem is Jim the teak no longer looks like the teak you paid >for. I too love discussing religion - perhaps we should re-name this thread and take it to a faith oriented list? :-)

skippergr@worldnet.att.net writes: >All of these >products seem to be attempting to mirror the result with a good >varnish >finish--for the most part with "maybe ok" to "awful/dismal" results. >IMHO if >we want a good shippy result, nothing beats good old varnish.Sure it >requires refreshing but for myself, it is all part of the fun of >boating. >BTW, my Alaskan came to us with cetol on all the brightwork >including the >decks. The color is clearly orange & the decks are extremely >slippery. This will definitely be my last entry on the Cetol/Armada versus varnish debate: Armada/Cetol does not NOT want to mirror a varnish finish. If you want a varnish finish - use varnish! Cetol/Armada matte, if applied as intended, leaves an oiled look with a somewhat rough grip to the wood, letting the wood breathe but at the same time protecting it by keeping water out. All of that with a minimum of maintenance. It's almost a religion: either you are a varnish person or you are a Cetol person. I, as stated before belong to the latter group, I use Armada on my grab-rails and am glad I do. It looks good in my opinion and the opinion of many visitors. It gives me a good secure grip when, in wet weather, I have to work my way forward to do whatever you do on the foredeck in wet weather. Please note: I only use Cetol/Armada matte (the original formula) and never more than three coats. Cetol gloss should never have been invented. Sikkens did themselves a big disfavour by marketing the gloss version because people think they can make Cetol look like varnish - but it ain't varnish!!! Repeat sermon from the beginning: If you want a varnish finish - use varnish! Scaramouche who worked with wood since he was in his teens....

alfred.hammond@sympatico.ca writes: >"At a minimum for a good yard, you can expect $150.00 per foot for >the >topsides (hull). That seems completely out of range. Unless I misunderstand you, topsides to me means waterline to gunwhales and I would be looking at a few hundred dollars for an average 30+ footer. The hardest part is usually removing and renewing the name and numbers.

I have had excellent results getting parts directly from SABB. They speak good English and take MasterCard . P.s: Which engine do you have?. Might have a few spare items for you... George SABB MOTOR AS Bergen, Norway Fax: 011.47.55344880

Re my earlier mail on this subject: it took me several days to dig out this info from my archives. Also to give credit to the guy who send it to me originally - Don Taylor - and in the interest of anyone who ever owned or now owns a SABB, PLEASE reply to me and I'll co-ordinate any further correspondence. But mostly I hope that my voice is heard out there in the water-wilderness George of Scaramouche, who now drives a German Diesel, but wished he had his Norwegian Bear back on board

This is not boat related, but.... My daughter who used up four years of my money for tuition on something geo-biological studies in college advised me the other day to keep the cats out of my flower boxes by simply sprinkling some Cheyenne Pepper on the soil. What d'ya know - it works!!! And up here in Canada, we still have some Cheyenne Pepper on the shelves....... George Geist

nunas@pacific.net.sg writes: > LAL What in the world is the "LAL" never heard of it, but maybe would be interested?

AlorMaria@aol.com writes: >In a message dated 03/28/2000 9:41:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, >mknott@bcpl.net writes: > ><< would it be possible to cut the transducer cable and then resplice > it with heat shrink tubing? >> I had to cut my transducer cable last year and spliced it successfully. Please note however that I'm an electronics technologist with some 30 years experience in mainframe computer maintenance. What I'm saying is: You need to have the manual skills and tools to do the job well and also know what goes on in these cables. In my case, there were three very fine wires inside a metallic shielded sleeve. I cut and rolled back the sleeve, cut and spliced (soldered with high silver contents solder - not the plumbing stuff) the inside wires, insulated each one carefully, and then rolled the metallic braid over the wires before soldering it back together. For the final cover, I used self-vulcanicing rubber tape. If you have never done this sort of thing, or have doubts about it, get an experienced professional to do it for you. Good Luck - George of Scaramouche