. > > Given you can synchronize the clocks of the ground stations well > enough, then the rest is "easy". Then you can get away with having > a simple signal generator that only needs an XO.

Hej Ulf, On 2020-08-26 09:09, Ulf Kylenfall via time-nuts wrote: > Paul, > > A 60 MHz xtal oscillator divided by 12 and comparedwith the incoming 5 MHz.

. > > The easy way to mount the antenna: > > Head over to Home Depot and get a 1" Tee, a 1" flange, a 1" > nipple, a 12" to 18" 1" pipe, and a 6" long 1" pipe. > > The antenna goes on top of the 18" pipe. That screws into the > tee. The bottom of the Tee gets the 6" pipe. Coax runs > straight through the 18" and 6" pipe.

On Sun, Jun 10, 2012 at 7:06 PM, DaveH wrote: > > > The easy way to mount the antenna: > > > > Head over to Home Depot and get a 1" Tee, a 1" flange, a 1" > > nipple, a 12" to 18" 1" pipe, and a 6" long 1" pipe. > > > > The antenna goes on top of the 18" pipe. That screws into the > > tee.

Brass has no place at all in the marine environment, except as shiny stuff. Jim Donnelly Troller Fan Isle With the OPEN WIRELESS NODE at Powell River BC

But as the insects hibernate or die, isn't the nectar seductive and the bird will expect that with a "flower" around, the insects will surely follow? Especially if we heat the sugar water, it will die from lack of protein.

Every time I check them the tops are very wet, with > large droplets all > over the tops. They are correctly filled, don't seem to be > overcharging and > they consume little water I might add 3/4 of a quart > per month. > The battery box is of fiberglass with no real > vents but a loosely > fitting lid and openings for the wires.

Local canvas guy is recommending Stamoid for my tuna tower tops. There will be a buggy top on the top of the tower & a full top over my helm area, all over the aluminum pipe work. The old was weblon & after 22 years has finally fallen apart. How good is Stamoid & what type of life can I expect from it?

Thank you all! cdelect@juno.com wrote: > It is indeed C900, I looked into a lamp assy. I had on hand and the silk > screen is clearly marked. Cool, thanks. The old one was easy to remove, as the body crumbled and I could desolder the leads one at a time.

Thanks to all for your advise. As a note to any that will be doing this project here is what we have come across so far. Since we had removed the caulking before thinking that we re-caulking the teak came up easy after removing 576 screws. We used a hammer and crow bar and the stripe came up easy.