The cockpit scuppers were fabricated from copper tubing and brass plates, bolted in place using brazing rod threaded with a hand die. The nuts were 3/8" rod sliced thinly and trhn drilled and tapped. We filed two flats on opposite sides to enable a wrench to get a crip on the round nuts as we tightened the assembly.

Tap and Die set. Used to chase rusty threads before re-assembly. Otherwise you do not get correct torque and possibly not a tight fit. The hardened dies easily cut through rusty scale, etc. The taps also cleans out the blind holes in cast iron engine blocks etc.

But it was a similar situation and the Captain did die and the boat, about 50' (I forget the name) was completely flipped over, bow over stern, going up the face of the wave and was destroyed and reduced to kindling as it washed up on the Corps of Engineers stone breakwater.

I asked for a vote on whether he should live or die. The results of the vote are a tossup, where I could cast the deciding vote. So, much for taking the matter out of my hands.

I use a die grinder--in fact they are so cheap, that I use two--one with a carbide round bit for the small blister grind out. The second with the 3 M 2" 36 grit discs in the chuck, for medium size. The large ones I use an air powered 4 to 4 1/2" grinder.

> Now, all you plastic boaters can move on--this question is for us die hard > "woodie" owners. are preparing to recaulk seams & paint the > bottom. Would like to have info on seam compounds. the desire is for the seam compound to remain flexible & remain in > good seal with the planks in the winter & not require extensive swell time > in the spring.

REPLY As someone who has spent hours in a Mustang suit I can attest to the fact you don't die from heat prostration. With these suits it is feasible to work with the zipper opened partially in front to provide some ventilation. Jim seems to think of it in terms of down his part of the world. Been there tried that.

They all thought I hand-carved the signs, but I was a router jockey all the way, except for a bit of fine finishing with a die grinder and Dremel tool. My main carving technique was to use a 3/4" wide V-Groove bit on a fixed base router. I'd "float" the base up for fine work, and plunge it in for depth/width.

They say both engines would die at the same time, anyway. It would seem to me that once one quit and there might still be a significant time lag until the second one quit. Maybe time enough to get the problem sorted out. I'm wondering if any of you twin-engine trawler people have had any experience with one engine continuing to run after the other had quit?

BTW my absolutely all-time worst experience was when I had an eel swim up into an unguarded water intake to the AC pump and die in the line between the through-hull and the basket filter.