JKG97@prodigy.net writes: > I'm reading good things, on other boat lists, about using "303 >Protectant" Our Local "little old sailmaker" who repairs a lot of flexible windows on Dodgers, Biminis and enclosures, swears by "303" to protect that flexible "glass" from UV and scratching. Mine are 3-4 years young now and look like new. George of Scaramouche who has no connection to "303" but listens to the advise of our "little old sailmaker".

alexh@gte.net writes: >Several years ago we would special >order 5 gallon pails of white oil from Van Waters & Rogers (biggest >industrial solvent distributor in our area and may be nationwide) >which we >then sold to a local massage parlor. But did they give you a trade courtesy discount then??? Seriously though, Alex, you seem to know about these things. How does this white oil compare to the "highly refined" Paraffin Oil that I use in my oil lamps. NOT the scented, coloured cheap stuff which is Kerosene and makes your eyes water and your throat choke; what I'm referring to is clear, odourless and burns without any fumes. Smells like candles burning. It's more expensive than ordinary lamp oil. I use it quite a bit and it's readily available in 1 liter containers at local home/hardware stores. It looks, feels and tastes like "baby oil"... George of Scaramouche, Lake Ontario - Canada

Mob1248@aol.com writes: >Where can we buy 303? > >Matt What's your geographical location? I can advise you for access in my country only.... George of Scaramouche, Canada P.s: 303 is NOT the same as "Armorall", even though it looks/smells/feels alike. 303 has UV protection.

almiller@n-jcenter.com writes: >I would appreciate suggestion on how to get rust stains off of >Sunbrella >canvas. Use oxalic acid. Wet canvas, sprinkle on oxalic acid (very little), rub in with fingers. Let sit 5 or 10 minutes - rinse with clean water. Stain gone! Oxalic acid available from drugstores and some paint supply stores. Test fabric first for colour fastness in inconspicuous place. George of Scaramouche, Lake Ontario, Canada P.s: Works on bloodstains too.

Richter-Pooh@rocketmail.com writes: >a high-quality floating >polypropylene line for dinghy painters and such. It >has much finer fibers than the usual cheap poly line, >and holds up in sunlight much better. Mark, our marina store sells a floating line which is polypropylene inside with a covering of braided polyester(?) outside (red or orange). The outer shell protects it from sunlight. Don't know what it's called but works. Coils and runs just like ordinary braided line. Canadian law requires that one carries 50 ft of floating line with a suitable throwing device attached. Many of us use that line -looks good and lasts many seasons. George of Scaramouche, he of no splinters...

mike@mikeandmonica.com writes: >If you want HTML support, please reply to this message and say >"yes". I don't want HTML and I say NO! I can read and write plain text, have so for years and decades on mainframes and micros - why do you/ I need HTML??? George of Scaramouche

Hi Zeke, The stop solenoid on my Ford Lehman became intermittent last year and your (awe inspiring) hand actuation trick worked until I found time to operate. Investigation finally revealed too large a voltage drop through the coil alone. Out of curiosity, expecting a corroded wire, I started unwinding the coil. The wire looked fine until the last inch where it is simply stuck into a small hole drilled into the iron core (armature) of the solenoid. I cut a half-inch off the end of the wire and scraped the varnish from an additional half-inch. After cleaning the small hole I flattened the end of the wire slightly with hammer blows so that it would conform to the side of the hole. Once the wire end was inserted I wedged it against the side of the hole by driving in a round pin. I filled the remaining space with varnish. I had wrapped the wire on a large coffee can as I unwound it from the coil. To rewind, I found I could mount the rotary axis of the armature on the spindle of a discarded electric can opener, which I rigged with a foot switch. Some careful level winding by hand finished the job. It has worked fine since. Bottom line: if you are not a mechanic/machinist, buy a new one. Jerry O'Neill GB32 Adventure Annapolis, MD

An acquaintance of mine got one of these prisms and tried what you're doing - installing it upside down. He says it had no effect until he turned it over with the pointy end down. If I had access to deckprisms, I'd install them off center on the ceiling so the pointy end and my cranium would be well separated from each other. However last time I cut a hole in my ceiling (for a woodburning fireplace chimney), I had to go through several inches of empty space between inner liner and the deck. So prisms probably wouldn't work on my boat anyway. Just have to be contended to sit in the warm glow of a real open wood flame - tough life, eh? George, irascible mossback on Lake Ontario

HuddlestonB_D@email.msn.com writes: > I am >back on. I will not participate as much as Bob but I will find alot >of the >information interesting and useful Welcome back, Debbie. It's so good to see your enthusiasm. So often, when the mail skipper goes, the admiral also packs it in. Really glad you are different! Take good care of Deborah C. Ciao - George, Mossback of Scaramouche in Lake Ontario, Canada

mknott@bcpl.net writes: >In case you guys wanted to continue this thread further... I just >had to >change the subject line. I would and I have this comment: Never in my wildest dreams would I have 12 V coming out of a 120 V type receptacle - never! My boat has numerous cigarette lighter sockets and I find them extremely flaky - they are simply not made for continuous use. Now what is a recommended alternative? I looked at "official" 12 V outlets and plugs in marine/sporting goods stores and find them sinfully expensive (over $20 each). Perhaps European type plugs with horizontal or round prongs so it's impossible to force them into 120V outlets? What do people use and where did you get them? George of Scaramouche, Lake Ontario, Canada