"Greg Bowers" writes: >This is the first I've written about this since it happened. I need a >drink!!! Greg, That does sound pretty traumatic, I once had an engine throw a rod right through the side of the block while underway, and I'll admit I cried (well, I was only 16 at the time). Thanks for sharing, though. I think I speak for all of us on here when I say that we learn a great deal from stories such as this one. Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

There is one additional issue here that I do not think has received the attention it should, and that is the concept of advancing the "greater good". I cruise with both pilothouse VHFs on, one monitoring 16 and the other monitoring the local Canadian Coast Guard channel. I do this not ONLY so I can hear someone hailing me (which let's face it is mighty rare) but so that I may be of assistance if someone else needs help. So far, in 5 summers of boating, there HAVE been times when help is required. One was a tow, and a few times when I was able to provide a relay to a boat out of range of the CG. Now, you might argue that this is not really a "requirement", and you would be right. But on the other hand, if I ever have to call for help, it sure would be nice if my fellow boaters were listening. In fact, it might mean the difference between life of death for me, or my mom, or my dad, or my son. You might want to think about that the next time you turn your radio off. Scott Welch "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

SeaLubber7@aol.com writes: >I have a project boat, actually maybe two, but I have some DIY questions >for the experienced group. It seems that the shrimp fleet of homemade boats >generally have drystack exhausts, para-vane stablizers, and home made keel >coolers. I've got a boat that I'd like to try one or more of these concepts >on and wondered if you guys could give me some insight into design and >particulars or sources for info. Maybe it will keep me off the list over the > >winter. My two cents: 1) Dry stacks: I installed a new dry stack in Island Eagle. It's pretty strai ght-forward. Your best bet is to just find the welder who does most of the sh rimp boats and pick his brains. 2) Paravanes: quite a bit more complex, because the point loads can be substa ntial. You may want to chat with a naval architect. The vanes can be easily w elded up. 3) Home-made keel coolers: if you have a metal boat, not too hard, and again talk to your local welder. If you have wood or fiberglass, much much harder b ecause it's difficult to go through the hull. You might find that but the tim e you get through with the futzzing around, it would be easier and less expen sive to buy one. That's what I did for my genset. I used one from Walter: htt p://www.waltergear.com/kc.htm Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out ." - John Wooden

Henry Quigley writes: >I KNOW what wire rope IS; >I just can't imagine using it as an anchor rode. > >But I guess in this world >some people would believe just about anything. Every fishboat in the Paific Northwest, and I mean EVERY one I have ever seen, uses wire rope as an anchor rode, usually with 50 or 100 feet of chain as a leader. Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

R C Smith Jr writes: >To keep from having to fuel a second compressor, see if you can fit a normal >household-type reefer...with the auto icemaker. CHEAP!...compared to the >stand-alone icemakers. FWIW, after a lot of looking I found that Sub Zero makes a compact (undercounter) freezer with icemaker, and that's what I put on Island Eagle. I subsequently found that U-Line makes an undercounter fridge with built-in icemaker, and I ended up putting one of those in my house. I'm not particularly happy with either one. If was was doing Island Eagle again, I would DEFINITELY try and fit in an apartment-size (3/4 height) fridge-freezer combo. However, I have looked around and have not been able to find one of those with an icemaker. Scott Welch "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

"Michael Slater" writes: >Does anyone have any thoughts on Northstar, and also what options might be >open to achieve the same amps from the same footprint. I have noticed that >Odyssea have a similar block FT1800 I think in their trolling range, and >they have a 3 year warranty! I had essentially the same experience, but with 8D AGM batteries from Concorde. I first discovered it on my start bank (2 X 8D in series). I was using an Echo Charger, and I chalked it up to that. A year later the capacity of my main house bank (4 X 8D in series/parallel to get 24 volts) was below 50%. I was not happy. I replace the start bank with some el-cheapo Chinese 8D AGMs, and they have been just fine. For the house bank, I went with the Discover L-16 AGM. I used 12 X 6 volt in series/parallel to get 24 volts, but if I was doing it again I'd use 12 X 2 volts, that way you could replace individual cells. 12 L16s will fit in the same footprint as 4 8Ds, but they are about 6 inches taller. So far, they have been great. See http://www.discover-energy.com/productsearch?filter0=47&filter1=**ALL**&filter2=**ALL**&filter3= for details Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

LA Licata writes: >How many of you all start your engine (maybe the first start of a >day) while standing in the engine room? This is exactly how I have Island Eagle set up, and it has been great. I have a full set of mechanical Murphy gauges in the ER, and a complete set of VDOs in the pilothouse. On the same theme, I have the mechanical shutdown in the ER and the electrical (solenoid) control in the PH. One thing that I have not yet done is add a small throttle in the ER so I can set the idle a bit higher when I fire the beast up. And I really like to listen and smell at booth startup and shutdown. > >I am (hopefully) setting up my engine room so that the ignition key >and engine panel is in the engine room and a fly bridge panel is in >the pilot house. I do not have a key in the PH. Because I have a full walk-around ER, and the PH is out of earshot, I think that the potential danger of an accidental start is greater than any convenience. Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

R C Smith Jr writes: >This fits in nicely with the thread about starting the engines from the ER. >By standing right over my 4-71s, I can give them the minimum amount of fuel >to start them cold. During summer months, they start at idle, even if cold. > >Unburned fuel gives a white smoke, which happens whenever I start >cold...gone in a couple minutes. Not sure why you get black smoke. > >I had a buddy with 6-92s and they were a devil to start cold, requiring >beaucoup throttle. The governors on older diesels (particularly Detroits) were/are pretty basic mechanical devices. I find with my 6-110 that if I adjust my idle for 600 RPM warm, when the engine is cold it has to be cranked for quite a while (say 30 seconds) to start, and even then it often dies at least once from fuel starvation. However with more fuel it fires after just a few revolutions and settles down quickly. I am planning on adding a small handwheel to adjust the idle for cold starts, because I do not have any throttle control down in the engine room where I start the engine. BTW if I adjust for 600 RPM cold idle, the warm idle is very high (950 RPM or so). Given the fact that 1350 RPM equals cruise speed of 8 knots, 950 RPM is not exactly what you want while docking :-) Although I like to moan about modern electronically controlled engines, they really have improved things like this. I have a Golf TDI diesel and at fires right up at any temperature down to -25. So all of you with engines built after 1990 or so can ignore this discussion. Scott Welch "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

Andy Woods writes: >Professionals who need to apply terminals to conductors a lot use the >ratcheting style crimper to mitigate a medical malady called Carpal Tunnel >Syndrome. CTS is indeed serious. However, I have to report that the force required to use the Ancor ratcheting crimper is actually GREATER than the Klein crimpers. In fact, because the handles of the Ancor are even further apart when you start to crimp (about 45 degrees), I found that my wrist and hands were MUCH more painful than with the Kleins (where the handles are only about 15 degrees when you start). YMMV, as always. Scott Welch "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

"Steve Anderson" writes: >In my 135 Lehman the engine coolant (Ethylene Glycol) circulates through a >heat exchanger in the water heater - as in many vessels. Since EG is toxic >might there be a chance that a leak in the heat exchanger could contaminate >the potable water supply? (This assumes that the pressure on the coolant >side >of the exchanger is greater than the pressure on the water side.) If the >risk >is real then why not replace the EG with nontoxic polyethylene glycol (the >pink stuff)? I have not seen this discussed on the list. What say you all? Several responses: First, ethylene glycol is HIGHLY toxic. The fatal dose is about 100 ml in adults (that's about a half-cup). This is not something you want to take chances with (http://www.antizol.com/egpoisono.htm). Second, all heat exchangers used in the application of ethylene glycol <-> potable water should be "double wall" (also called "dual wall") type. These heat exchangers have a small air gap between the tubes, and that gap is open to the outside of the case. Even if there is a leak within either one of the sides (fresh or coolant) the resulting leak will flow out of the heat exchange instead of mixing with the other side. Check the specs of your hot water tank to confirm this, some older tanks may not be built this way. Third, yes, there is antifreeze based on propylene glycol. PG is non-toxic when it's pure, but PG antifreeze is still toxic due to the additives (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze#Propylene_glycol). Fourth, both propylene glycol and ethylene glycol are sugars and hence have a distinctive sweet taste. If your potable water EVER tastes sweet, INVESTIGATE IMMEDIATLY. This is one area where you don't want to mess around. Scott Welch "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden