capnrich@cnw.com writes: >> There is not one of you out there that >can start their diesel without a good power source, electronic or >not. > >True. Not true. Unless you classify human power as a "good power source". (Well, if you get between Mohammed Ali and his gloves, you might be right). Ciao - George

cculotta@iamerica.net writes: >There was a choice of >milling the interior of the pump or the seal, naturally we did the >seal. Why the seal? Similar thing happened to me a few years back with the wheel bearing on a custom British built boat-trailer for a Hurley. I honed out the backing plate to fit the next size bearing and seal. Now I can just go to any bearing shop anywhere in the world and buy standard parts. George of Scaramouche, Lake Ontario, Canada

Mike, I have been shown a picture of a communication device, made by Motorola, that combines net access, e-mail, voice communication and GPS (?) all in one decent size unit with keyboard and active colour matrix. It uses geostationary satellites rather than cell-phone towers. Price and availability are not yet known (here in Canada), but with your background, perhaps you can find out more about it and include in your presentation. It would apparently fill all a traveller's needs perfectly and work world-wide on land or oceans. The picture I have seen was in a Radio Shack catalogue. George of Scaramouche, Lake Ontario, Canada

e16@telus.net writes: >Put a 110 vac plug on the lamp and plug >it into the standard 3 prong female outlet that is installed in the >inverter. They retail for about US$30. I suggest you try that out before you hardwire and install. Just had a problem with one of those screw-in fluorescents: Was trying to use it with a photo-diode switch and regular 110 V AC (shorepower). When it came on (after dark) the bulb flickered very noticeable and I had to undo the whole setup. Note: I had used the same photo-diode switch for a whole tree full of incandescent lights all through Christmas season - without any problem. FWIW - George of Scaramouche.

LRZeitlin@aol.com writes: >It is a matter of a moment to mount the 20 lb. fishing motor >and plug it in. A #27 Diehard deep discharge battery will run the >MinnKota >for about 4 hours at top output. It will suffice to move my W30 at >about 2 >kts. in very calm water. Larry I have a similar setup but am curious what you used to "plug it in". I mean the type of connector? I use the battery cable clamps that came with the trolling motor. A real "pug in" would be nicer. George G. P.s: My daughter, who is a bit of a naturalist, uses the motor on our rubber dinghy to sneak up on the local blue herons and other swamp creatures. Has hours of fun and her feathered friends don't seem to mind. I could never do that with my 'British Seagull'.

JWilkins@idahopower.com writes: >Today stumbled upon a used Motorola Bag Phone (3 watt transmit >power) for >sale cheap. Being the cautious type I called Verizon to see if it >could be >reactivated. Quick answer was NO. Question: Does anybody know of any >service >provider who will reactivate these? I take it from your name that you are in the US. So my experience may or may not help. I also bought a cheap analogue bag pone for use on my boat and checked with Bell-Mobility. They told me: "No Problem. Just add it to you existing digital service." There is a cost involved but not exorbitant. Next question: My 'bag phone' was previously used in a car and it's antennae used the car body as a ground plane. Has anyone used such a phone on a glass boat and what did they use for ground? George of Scaramouche1, Lake Ontario, Canada

rlchenry@mindspring.com writes: >The ANTENNA used the car as a ground plane, the phone did not - it >was just >expecting the same ol' 50ohm cable. If you get an ANTENNA designed >for use >NOT on a car roof, then the phone will work fine. My phone is actually not a bag-phone, but an ex "built-in" car phone. I beleve they were jokingly referred to as "brick-phones". Its antennae is one of those through the glass (rear-window) type. Will try to get a clamp-on-the-rail type for cellulars. Trying to get maximum transmission power. With my current digital cellphone I lose contact about three miles from shore (but I can still see the CN Tower, where one of the transmitters is located). Portability is not an issue for me, power/range is. > > Thanks for your advise - George G.

docmoss@tampabay.rr.com writes: >Speaking of Viruses - What a H--- is this that I got from TWL >this morning and yesterday? >docmoss It's a people virus. Stare at it long enough and your eyes will go funny. Try retyping it and your fingers will go funny too. ;-) George G.

jalexander127@home.com writes: >interference in his boats air conditioning digital control system Maybe I'm a bit old-fashioned, but what does a digital control do on an airconditioner that a purely bimetallic thermostat from Honeywell would not do? Oh, yes, I do have an affiliation with Honeywell, retired from them after 25 years and they pay my pension.... George of Scaramouche, Lake Ontario, Canada.

gb421009@earthlink.net writes: >Found a previous post recommending silicone caulk. Surely that is >silicone-based?! That could have been I. About three years ago, I installed a new transducer on the inside of a only slightly curved part of the hull at a point where it's about 1 to 2 feet below the waterline. Used something called 'GE Silicone II'. It's a white sticky goo in a 100g tube. No connection to GE, just happened to see that stuff -- for a good price -- at a marine flea-market. Bought about a dozen tubes and use it for everything that needs sticking or caulking. The depth sounder works fine, but expectedly reads about one foot less than actual waterdepth. I can handle the math for that.... :-) George of Scaramouche1, Frenchman's Bay, Ontario P.s: An earlier "mistress" of mine had the same kind of depth sounder installed (inside) using the container and mineral oil method. Worked equally well. Came with the boat, so I don't know how long it has been there. Gg