"Jim Boyd" writes: >If you use electrical tape Well, that's just the problem today. Everybody is depending on this high-tech electrical tape without any thought about the skills that we are loosing with regards to steam tape, donkey tape and even good old fashioned 8-track tape. Back in the seventies I was able to use a single 8-track tape to provide music for a whole night, and the songs only repeated every 40 minutes or so. When I mention 8-track tape to boaters today all they want to talk about is this here "electrical" tape. Sad to see that so much important knowledge is being lost. Scott Welch "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

"Mark Andrew" writes: >I'm planning on a self-contained hydraulic steering control setup, which I >understand is pretty easy to split between multiple stations, and maintain >all control should there be a power outage. Yes, in a hydraulic steering system each helm pump operates independently. > >It's the engine control I'm most concerned with, especially being able to >maintain engine control in the midst of a power failure (sh$%^ happens, and >I'd like to be able to motor home). Is it possible to have a control cable, >say in the PH, and a remote control up on the FB? This is exactly what you should do. > >How do other trawlers have this configured? Looking for a bullet-proof >solution, and at least two stations (maybe three, if I want to prep for >Mediterranean mooring and put another remote station at the rear of the >boat. You may hear some other recommendations, such as electronic controls, but I am going to suggest very strongly that you take a look at the low-tech solution: Hynautic hydraulic controls. These have been around about 30 years, they are very simple to install and maintain, and best of all they work perfectly for multiple stations. I have them on Island Eagle and have not had a single problem. Total maintainence over 6 years consists of making sure there is air pressure in the resevoir. The official Hynautic web site does not carry much information anymore, but here is some info: http://www.seamar.com/hengine.html The user manual is at http://tinyurl.com/ryvcl4 You can also find lots of stuff for sale on eBay, just search for "hynautic control". Your very best bet would be to find a boat "upgrading" to electronic controls from Hynautic and just buying the whole system. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

"Mark Andrew" writes: >Well, I've spent a half hour going in circles with Teleflex, the owners of >the Hynautic hydraulic engine controls. No one in the company seems to know >anything about the product line, and it's like pulling teeth getting past >the phone receptionist...seems kind of risky in this economic environment to >put the sales future of your company in the hands of your phone >receptionists, but there you go... > >The www.teleflex.com web site has no information, although they do talk >about their Hynautic steering controls. Trust me, you are right, it's hard to get info. These are "old tech" and not what Hynautic is pushing these days. However there is definitely an engineer there still supporting the product, I had a good chat with him a few years ago. But in any event they are dead simple, very very easy to install, more or less indestructible, and work perfectly for multiple stations with no extra bits and pieces. Get the manual, buy what you need, on eBay, and you will be good to go. Waaayyyyy less expensive than the electronic ones, and you can fix these with an adjustable wrench and WD-40. Plus they feel very nice and solid in your hands. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

<2elnav@netbistro.com> writes: >Jastram will in fact design a system from scratch if you so desire. for >those contemplating a wholesale upgrade or constrution from scratch you >can't do better than going there. I will second this. I used Jastram components when I refit Island Eagle with hydraulic steering, and they were great. With some companies, you talk to sales people and at the very end might get a bit of engineering expertise. With Jastram, when you call you are talking right to the engineers. I have had no problems whatsoever with my Jastram equipment and would not hesitate to recommend them highly. By the way, they also have a sizing calculator which they use to determine the proper ram and pump sizes. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

Jay Sprague writes: >I've been using storage containers called Lock-n-Lock. They have a >very tight silicone seal and a positive lock on all four sides >(they're rectangular). Don't buy a knockoff version, they don't seal >as well. >Get a large set. They come nested in a large container which is most >useful to store the empty smaller containers. I have been using "Clik Clack" brand containers with excellent results. http://clickclack.com/storageware_0309.aspx?Page=Page05.jpg They are made in New Zealand but available in a bunch of locations. I found m ost of mine in T. J. Maxx. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out ." - John Wooden

StWillett@aol.com writes: >I would not use plumbers putty but one of the sealants made by locktite, >permatex, or similar which states diesel compatible, they usually contain >teflon. You can pick up a tube at NAPA or similar palces it will last a long > >time. My friend Aaron, who is a professional pipefitter in a shipyard, told me 6 ye ars ago to use Loctite 545 thread sealant. I've followed his advice, and neve r had a single leak. Here's a link: http://www.emisupply.com/catalog/loctite-thread-sealant-545-pneumatichydrauli c-36ml-bottle-p-2386.html Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out ." - John Wooden

"Steve Burgis" writes: >I have replaced my old chartplotter with a dedicated PC running Nobeltec >MaxPro software. I would like to connect my electronic compass and my depth >sounder both with NMEA 0183 outputs to the PC using a USB connection. This >is intended for display only purposes. I have the exact same setup as you do. Don't bother with the single-port USP to Serial adapters, they are crap. I got a Qatec 8 port unit, $369 and it wor ks flawlessly with my Nobeltec (see http://www.quatech.com/catalog/usb_2.0.ph p). One great advantage of so many ports is that you don't have to futz aroun d hardwiring various devices. You can just run them all into the Qatec and th en use the NMEA repeater software in Nobeltec to send the desired data out th e desired port (e.g. route the compass and GPS data to the autopilot, route t he GSP data to the external radar, etc.) Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out ." - John Wooden

David Hart writes: > I am considering adding a Balmar alternator to better charge my house bank. >An internet search shows several people who have had problems with the >alternator or the regulator. I would appreciate any reliability info on these >alternators good or bad. Thanks For what it's worth, I had to decide between Balmar and Ample Power for both my alternators and regulators. I ended up choosing Ample Power. I had to retu rn one of the alternators, and when that was returned to me it was damaged in shipping. They replaced it no questions asked -- and it was an $1800 alternat or. So, I'd recommend them highly. See http://www.amplepower.com/ Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out ." - John Wooden

"Jim Healy" writes: >All AC neutrals should be collected on a single common buss, and all AC >grounds should be collected on another, separate common buss, and the two >busses should be scrupulously maintained completely separate from each >other. These two separate collecting busses are only SWITCHED together 1) >by the generator transfer switch or 2) by interlocking manual switching or >an internal relay design in some inverter/chargers. Exactly what he said. It's critical to understand that the bonding of neutral to ground must take place ONLY at the source (inverter/genset/isolation trans former). There is a very good reason for this. Should you have multiple point s of bonding, if one of the bonds failed then there is a possibility that som e segment of wiring would have an unbonded neutral but you might not notice. This could lead to leathal voltage being present in a conductor (the neutral) usually at zero potential. THIS CAN KILL YOU. In addition to Nigel Calder's book, I also highly recommend Charlie Wing's "B oatowners Illustrated Handbook of Wiring". Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out ." - John Wooden

>We have considered just plain paint >with nonskid grit in it but not sure we like the looks. For what it's worth: on both my current and previous boat (both wooden) I used a painted deck with non-skid material added. On my first boat, the painter suggested that we tape out the non-skid area in a pleasing pattern, and so we did. We continued the house and bulwarks paint (white) down about an inch into the deck, and then taped out the non-skid areas with nice rounded corners (sort of like the non-skid patterns you see molded in to glass boats). I then used a contrasting color (Interlux Grand Banks Beige) to do the non-skid. It looks very nice and professional. >Another option I've seen is adhesive-backed 3M type non-skid sheets. This stuff is really, really good. It's expensive, but you can get great deals on eBay. It's used by the pallet-load in factories and they often get rid of old batches. I paid about 1/10 the list price for more than I will ever use. It even comes in clear. You have to wash the surface with something like acetone before you apply it, so the tape will stick. One warning, there are different levels of aggression, and the "strong" stuff has the texture and effect of 16-grit sanding belts :-) Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden