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List: trawlers@lists.trawlering.com
From: MaxandDis@aol.com
 
Re: Introduction and follies
Thu, Aug 20, 1998 11:10 PM
The clean air units are called living air and more details can be found at mon1127@aol drew
List: trawlers@lists.trawlering.com
From: plkruse@iu.net
 
RE: Diesel magic bullet & free lunch? (Hammerdown)
Sun, Oct 11, 1998 2:35 AM
Myles said: "I couldn't agree with Paul more on this one." I'm not sure exactly what it is that we agree on, but it is always good to know that we agree on something. :-) You make a good point that it pays to buy a good engine, but then all the name brand ones are good. The choice between a Perkins, a Cat, a Detroit, a Cummins, a Mack, or any of the other main ones is really not much. They are all very excellent, and they will all last well, assuming reasonable maintenance and care in operation. The point that I was making is that when someone says his automobile engine lasted 60,000 or 100,000, or even 250,000 miles with a certain treatment, I am not impressed in the least. A 100K on an engine should be a very small percentage of its life, and it should last that long with even the most minimum care. In fact, you can get a half million miles out of any decent diesel with a minimum amount of maintenance. I do not begin to get impressed until about the million mile mark without an overhaul. You say that you are getting tired of all these oil threads. Well, that is just as well. Most recreational boat users never put enough hours on their engines to wear them out anyway, even with the bare minimum amount of maintenance. It therefore really does not justify a whole lot of effort to extend the engine life, since engine life was never really a constraint to them in the first place. If you have a good diesel in your trawler, and if you will never put 5,000 hours on it, then you should feel free to do whatever you like with your engine oil. As long as you do not completely abuse your engine, it should last that long. It won't take much more to reach the 10K mark. Beyond that, however; you will have to start being very concerned about your oil; or else just resign yourself to paying for in-frame overhauls about that often. You are also right that other things are more likely to cause a breakdown at sea than engine oil, and you have named some of the big ones. These certainly deserve the lion's share of your maintenance resources. I also would be very happy to see some discussion on these other items. Paul Kruse ---------- From: chud Sent: Friday, October 09, 1998 6:36 PM To: trawler-world-list@samurai.com Subject: RE: Diesel magic bullet & free lunch? (Hammerdown) I couldn't agree with Paul more on this one. [snip] The whole oil change and oil additive posts are starting to bore me. Don't hurt me to bad, just my opinions, Myles!!!
  • application/ms-tnef attachment: stored
List: trawlers@lists.trawlering.com
From: Thataway@aol.com
 
TWL: Sundeck vs Classic--dinghy and dogs
Sat, Apr 21, 2001 4:54 PM
Most Sundecks have good railings and many have fiberglass or Starboard weather boards all around the aft deck. I certainly would not go on the roof of the sundeck in rough weather, unless I had to, and then would wear a safety harness (on the other hand I have gone to the top of 65 foot masts in heavy weather, so anything is possiable). One person lauch: Crane davit picks up the dinghy (electric winch)--we have a spreader bar, which is about 9 feet long, attatches with lines and snap hooks to the two stern corners and to the bow handle (the boat is a 12 foot alumium skiff with a 15 hp outboard--the spreader bar is balanced so the boat is level. The boat is hoisted clear of the dinghy chocks, and the crane davit pivots on teflon bearnings--the dinghy can be launched either afte of the swim step, or over the STB side. When launching alone, I keep both the bow and stern lines with in one hand, and the remote for the dinghy in the other. When the dinghy is clear of the boatl, I lower it to almost into the water. Then I climb back into the flying bridge ( between the flying bridge hard top and the Sundeck hard top--about 3 feet) and walk down the three steps to the sundeck. Then aft to the gate, have Left the dinghy lines and remote where they are reached from the gate, and then lower the dinghy into the water, after I have tied the lines to cleats on the side of the boat. After I let slack in the crane davit cable, I get in the dinghy from the swim step (yes I have to climb down a four foot ladder, but it is easier and safer than many of the wooden steps I have seen on Classics with a three foot high transom. I then put the spreader bar on the swim step, get back on the sun deck, and use one hand to guide the spreader bar away from the boat, back up to the top of the sundeck, finally climb back onto the sun deck and secure the spreader bar in the dinghy chocks and the hook on the cable to the radar ach. I am using the dinghy only for a few minutes I would leave the spreader bar on the swim step. The typical time needed for this entire proceedure is five minutes--reverse the entire thing for retrieval. Dogs--We have over 75,000 miles with large dogs (mostly labs) and have had various accomidations--an 8 foot gang plank, with carpeted 3/8 plywood on half of a 16 foot extension ladder is carried for docks and sometimes for the dinghy--we have a dog carried--1/2 inch plywood floor, made like a bosons chair with nylon straps crossed under, Sumbrella stapled to the bottom, one end opens, and secures with turnbuttons and a draw string--this the size of our last lab when she was 14 and could not climb down the ladder--now used for a Border Collie--who likes to ride down but climb up--we keep the cable of the crane davit tied on the hand rail of the aft swim step ladder and put the dog carrier at the same level as the sundeck, resting on the top rung of the ladder and held inplace by the Crane davit cable. The dog is lowered into the dink and steps out... the old lab just rode in that until we got to shore. We also recently inheirted a chow/shepard mix, which jumps down to the swim step and climbs the ladder. We also inheirited a Papilon and she is carried or handed. Dogs are not a problem with a Sundeck. A few years ago we said no big dogs...but my wife cannot turn down a dog...so they adopt to boating. Incidently the alumium dinghy has the dacron filled with closed cell foam for a rub rail (secured with 5200 and bolts every 2 feet--the swim step also has the dacron rub bumper rub rail. At times we carry a 3.1 roll up floor with an 8 hp Avon inside of the 12 foot dinghy and launch it the same way. Bob Austin--anyone want a boat dog? Pensacola, FL Symbol 42 Sundeck
List: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
From: Günther Schauer
 
Re: [USRP-users] Help on LiveUSB SDR Environment for N200
Thu, Oct 18, 2012 1:04 PM
Dear all, I'm a beginner in SDR and want to start quickly to get familiar with SDR together with your USRP devices which are already in place. For my project I have to install a completely new test environment. Therefore I want to use the LiveUSB on my own USB stick to speed up the installation process. But I got stuck in doing so. This problem has already emerged recently and answered by referencing the link https://wiki.ubuntu.com/LiveUsbPendrivePersistent. Unfortunately this site contains extensive information of how to create a LiveUSB in many different ways but not sourced on tarballs. For somebody like me who isn't that familiar with creating bootable devices it's not easy. It would be highly desirable to get some kind of reproducable "instruction guide" (on your site): "How to bring the casper-rw.tar.gz file onto an own USB stick" in order not to lose much time on this kind of work. I could imagine that this would be also helpful for other users. We want to concentrate on the work with your USRP devices and not waste time in setting up any environmental matters. Maybe some other format (.iso) can be provisioned to simplify the process to create such a LiveUSB ? I'd highly appreciate if you could help me (and others). with kind regards Günther
List: tacomaart@list.cityoftacoma.org
From: Carletta Wilson
 
Remove from mailing list
Tue, Mar 2, 2021 12:35 AM
Retiring Carletta Wilson Visual Arts and Literature Librarian Arts, Recreation and Literature Department | Reference and Readers Services 206-386-4636 The Seattle Public Library 1000 Fourth Avenue Seattle, WA 98104 www.spl.org
List: ctbirds@lists.ctbirding.org
From: RAYMOND BELDING
 
Re: [CT Birds] Weatogue
Sun, Nov 4, 2012 10:31 PM
11/3 - Nod Brook Reservation in the Weatogue section of Simsbury - 1 juvenile Brant on the dike betwween the two bodies of water. Ray Belding w/ Debbie Bishop
List: ctbirds@lists.ctbirding.org
From: VALERY MELNIKOW
 
old pals have returned
Thu, Apr 18, 2013 6:59 PM
val and chris melnikov. Bpt. 15:00 front yard. couple of old friends have returned. White Throated and White Crowned Sparrows have returned. Only one White Crown, mob of White Throats.
List: tacomaart@list.cityoftacoma.org
From: Susan Newsom
 
Museum of Glass eNewsletter: Visiting Artist Preston Singletary, History of Glass Lecture Series Returns
Thu, Apr 8, 2010 5:29 PM
Blown and sandcarved glass; gold foil, 10 x 19½ inches, courtesy of the artist, photo by Russell Johnson Trimpin photo by Matthew G.
List: time-nuts@lists.febo.com
From: Magnus Danielson
 
Re: [time-nuts] MV89A / MTI-260 / HP10811 carrier board
Thu, Feb 25, 2016 9:23 PM
. > > It will be possible to lock the resident oscillator to an external > reference frequency, > > tune it a few Hz using a 10-turn-pot or an external tuning voltage from > 0 to 5 volts. > > The 10811 oscillator does not have a stable tuning reference voltage > output, it will be > > provided. > > There is a Xilinx Coolrunner 2C64 CPLD that generates a 1pps
List: time-nuts@lists.febo.com
From: Bob Camp
 
Re: [time-nuts] BeagleBone Black DDMTD update
Wed, Oct 29, 2014 11:10 PM
Hi In the case of a 1 ps aperture on the flip flop, and a 100 fs delta between samples, there are two simple things that might happen: 1) You get random garbage for 10 counts. 2) The flip flop “hangs up” for 10 counts.