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B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

SB
Soumen Banerjee
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 10:18 AM

Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can
this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email.

Thanks,
Soumen

Hi, The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email. Thanks, Soumen
MM
Marcus Müller
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 10:54 AM

Hi Soumen,

Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair
instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads
that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it
won't fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another
suitable ground connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy
that the power connector is the only thing that seems to have taken
damage :)

Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there
is T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage,
but I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that
happens between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.

You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the
cause you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You
could also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of
L601 (which is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response
fuse. I really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an
external power supply without a fuse.

Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus

[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/

On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:

Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the
board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the
board to the email.

Thanks,
Soumen


USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com

Hi Soumen, Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo: The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :) Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position. Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing. You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply somehow. The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply without a fuse. Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon, Marcus [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/ On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote: > Hi, > The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the > board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the > board to the email. > > Thanks, > Soumen > > > _______________________________________________ > USRP-users mailing list > USRP-users@lists.ettus.com > http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
SB
Soumen Banerjee
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 12:33 PM

Hi Marcus,
Thanks a lot for helping me out. I looked at the schematics, and I guess
the solution involving using my own fuse and connecting it to the F-100
side of L601 sounds the best since I wont lose any functionality. I have
attached an image with one of the sides of the L601 circled in red. Can you
confirm that I need to get the lead out of this end? Is it safe to use a
micro-tip soldering iron on this component? Are there any special
considerations I need to take care of?
Thanks,
Soumen

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 4:24 PM, Marcus Müller usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
wrote:

Hi Soumen,

Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)

Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.

You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.

Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus

[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/

On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:

Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
email.

Thanks,
Soumen


USRP-users mailing listUSRP-users@lists.ettus.comhttp://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com


USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com

Hi Marcus, Thanks a lot for helping me out. I looked at the schematics, and I guess the solution involving using my own fuse and connecting it to the F-100 side of L601 sounds the best since I wont lose any functionality. I have attached an image with one of the sides of the L601 circled in red. Can you confirm that I need to get the lead out of this end? Is it safe to use a micro-tip soldering iron on this component? Are there any special considerations I need to take care of? Thanks, Soumen On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 4:24 PM, Marcus Müller <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote: > Hi Soumen, > > Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction, > but just a description of what I see in your photo: > The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that > connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't > fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground > connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power > connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :) > > Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's > no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position. > Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is > T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd > like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens > between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing. > > You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering > circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as > directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 > and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power > supply somehow. > The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test > point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder > something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause > you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could > also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which > is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like > the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply > without a fuse. > > Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon, > Marcus > > [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/ > > > On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote: > > Hi, > The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. > Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the > email. > > Thanks, > Soumen > > > _______________________________________________ > USRP-users mailing listUSRP-users@lists.ettus.comhttp://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > USRP-users mailing list > USRP-users@lists.ettus.com > http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com > >
RA
Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 1:05 PM

I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground and

  • with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions
    where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would ground,
    and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin wires will
    increase chances that the board will survive a second incident of this kind.
    I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having
    it all in place I sealed the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.

I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.

Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier to
repair when damaged.

Ralph.

From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] On Behalf Of
Marcus Müller via USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hi Soumen,

Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)

Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no
way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.

You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and
try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply
somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.

Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus

[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/

On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:

Hi,

The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can
this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email.

Thanks,

Soumen


USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com

I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue. I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested. Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier to repair when damaged. Ralph. From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Müller via USRP-users Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? Hi Soumen, Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo: The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :) Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position. Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing. You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply somehow. The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply without a fuse. Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon, Marcus [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/ On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote: Hi, The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email. Thanks, Soumen _______________________________________________ USRP-users mailing list USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
RA
Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 1:13 PM

Looks like the right position. Take normal ESD precautions, and use a not
too small tip to get enough heat in short time into the pad.

The biggest mistake people usually make is using a needle thin tip with way
to low temperature. Be powerful, be hot, be fast, then it will work out.

Ralph.

From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] On Behalf Of
Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 1:33 PM
To: Marcus Müller
Cc: USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hi Marcus,

Thanks a lot for helping me out. I looked at the schematics, and I guess the
solution involving using my own fuse and connecting it to the F-100 side of
L601 sounds the best since I wont lose any functionality. I have attached an
image with one of the sides of the L601 circled in red. Can you confirm that
I need to get the lead out of this end? Is it safe to use a micro-tip
soldering iron on this component? Are there any special considerations I
need to take care of?

Thanks,

Soumen

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 4:24 PM, Marcus Müller <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com > wrote:

Hi Soumen,

Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)

Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no
way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.

You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and
try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply
somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.

Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus

[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/

On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:

Hi,

The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can
this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email.

Thanks,

Soumen


USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com


USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com

Looks like the right position. Take normal ESD precautions, and use a not too small tip to get enough heat in short time into the pad. The biggest mistake people usually make is using a needle thin tip with way to low temperature. Be powerful, be hot, be fast, then it will work out. Ralph. From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] On Behalf Of Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 1:33 PM To: Marcus Müller Cc: USRP-users@lists.ettus.com Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? Hi Marcus, Thanks a lot for helping me out. I looked at the schematics, and I guess the solution involving using my own fuse and connecting it to the F-100 side of L601 sounds the best since I wont lose any functionality. I have attached an image with one of the sides of the L601 circled in red. Can you confirm that I need to get the lead out of this end? Is it safe to use a micro-tip soldering iron on this component? Are there any special considerations I need to take care of? Thanks, Soumen On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 4:24 PM, Marcus Müller <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> > wrote: Hi Soumen, Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo: The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :) Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position. Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing. You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply somehow. The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply without a fuse. Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon, Marcus [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/ On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote: Hi, The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email. Thanks, Soumen _______________________________________________ USRP-users mailing list USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com _______________________________________________ USRP-users mailing list USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
SM
Sylvain Munaut
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 1:16 PM

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 2:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via
USRP-users usrp-users@lists.ettus.com wrote:

I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground and

  • with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions
    where they belong, not circumventing any filtering.

This is the power (!) connection ... you can't use 0.1mm diameter wire
for that ... On the contrary you probably want the thickest wire you
can fit in there.

Cheers,

Sylvain

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 2:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote: > I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground and > + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions > where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. This is the power (!) connection ... you can't use 0.1mm diameter wire for that ... On the contrary you probably want the thickest wire you can fit in there. Cheers, Sylvain
MM
Marcus Müller
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 1:19 PM

Hey Ralph,

glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
haven't tackled :)
Two words of warning:

  1. ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
    accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive
    pins to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground
    plane is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
  2. when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
    isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in
    the best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
    resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
    anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
    designs of my own).

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:

I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both
ground and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so)
to the positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering.
So this would ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and
C601. Using thin wires will increase chances that the board will
survive a second incident of this kind. I had to do this with the
Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having it all in place I
sealed the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.

I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.

Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they
all were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually
easier to repair when damaged.

Ralph.

*From:*USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On
Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hi Soumen,

Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair
instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads
that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it
won't fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another
suitable ground connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm
happy that the power connector is the only thing that seems to have
taken damage :)

Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board;
there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same
position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that
there is T600, which you could directly feed with external supply
voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power
"sanitation" that happens between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.

You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output
as directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of
F100 and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your
power supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to
solder something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is
possibly the cause you'd want to use an external power supply in the
first place. You could also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to
the F100-side of L601 (which is much much larger), and use your own 4A
fast response fuse. I really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you
not to use an external power supply without a fuse.

Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus

[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/

On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:

 Hi,

 The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the
 board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the
 board to the email.

  

 Thanks,

 Soumen




 _______________________________________________

 USRP-users mailing list

 USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>

 http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
Hey Ralph, glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I haven't tackled :) Two words of warning: 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane is rather small, both carrying low voltage. 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB designs of my own). Greetings, Marcus On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote: > > I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both > ground and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) > to the positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. > So this would ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and > C601. Using thin wires will increase chances that the board will > survive a second incident of this kind. I had to do this with the > Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having it all in place I > sealed the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue. > > > > I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested. > > > > Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they > all were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually > easier to repair when damaged. > > > > Ralph. > > > > *From:*USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On > Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via USRP-users > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM > *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com > *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? > > > > Hi Soumen, > > Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair > instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo: > The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads > that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it > won't fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another > suitable ground connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm > happy that the power connector is the only thing that seems to have > taken damage :) > > Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; > there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same > position. > Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that > there is T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply > voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power > "sanitation" that happens between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing. > > You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering > circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output > as directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of > F100 and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your > power supply somehow. > The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test > point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to > solder something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is > possibly the cause you'd want to use an external power supply in the > first place. You could also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to > the F100-side of L601 (which is much much larger), and use your own 4A > fast response fuse. I really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you > not to use an external power supply without a fuse. > > Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon, > Marcus > > [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/ > > On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote: > > Hi, > > The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the > board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the > board to the email. > > > > Thanks, > > Soumen > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > USRP-users mailing list > > USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com> > > http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com > > >
RA
Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 1:29 PM

Sure you can, this is more than enough, the B210 is not very power hungry, and the distance will be short. The power traces in the PCB and the wire in the coils will not be remarkably thicker :)

Ralph.

-----Original Message-----
From: Sylvain Munaut [mailto:246tnt@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:16 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Cc: Marcus Müller; usrp-users
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 2:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users
usrp-users@lists.ettus.com wrote:

I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both
ground and

  • with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
  • positions
    where they belong, not circumventing any filtering.

This is the power (!) connection ... you can't use 0.1mm diameter wire for
that ... On the contrary you probably want the thickest wire you can fit in
there.

Cheers,

Sylvain
Sure you can, this is more than enough, the B210 is not very power hungry, and the distance will be short. The power traces in the PCB and the wire in the coils will not be remarkably thicker :) Ralph. > -----Original Message----- > From: Sylvain Munaut [mailto:246tnt@gmail.com] > Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:16 PM > To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras > Cc: Marcus Müller; usrp-users > Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? > > On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 2:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users > <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote: > > I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both > > ground and > > + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the > > + positions > > where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. > > This is the power (!) connection ... you can't use 0.1mm diameter wire for > that ... On the contrary you probably want the thickest wire you can fit in > there. > > Cheers, > > Sylvain
RA
Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 1:30 PM

Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)

Ralph.

From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hey Ralph,

glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for the
"where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I haven't
tackled :)
Two words of warning:

  1. ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
    accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins to
    ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane is
    rather small, both carrying low voltage.
  2. when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
    isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
    best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
    resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
    anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
    designs of my own).

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:

I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground and

  • with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions
    where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would ground,
    and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin wires will
    increase chances that the board will survive a second incident of this kind.
    I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having
    it all in place I sealed the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.

I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.

Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier to
repair when damaged.

Ralph.

From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] On Behalf Of
Marcus Müller via USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hi Soumen,

Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)

Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no
way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.

You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and
try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply
somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.

Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus

[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/

On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:

Hi,

The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can
this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email.

Thanks,

Soumen


USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com

Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :) Ralph. From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users' Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? Hey Ralph, glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I haven't tackled :) Two words of warning: 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane is rather small, both carrying low voltage. 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB designs of my own). Greetings, Marcus On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote: I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue. I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested. Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier to repair when damaged. Ralph. From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Müller via USRP-users Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? Hi Soumen, Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo: The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :) Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position. Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing. You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply somehow. The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply without a fuse. Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon, Marcus [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/ On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote: Hi, The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email. Thanks, Soumen _______________________________________________ USRP-users mailing list USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
SM
Sylvain Munaut
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 2:16 PM

Sure you can, this is more than enough, the B210 is not very power hungry, and the distance will be short. The power traces in the PCB and the wire in the coils will not be remarkably thicker :)

The B210 can consume more than what USB 3.0 bus power can provide,
hence the recommendation to use an external supply. That means more
than 1A of current.

Look at http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm  and for chassis
wiring (which is already the most forgiving spec), 0.1mm leads to a
max of ~ 120 mA so you're nearly off by a factor of 10 ...

The fuse is rated to 4A, the inductor is rated for 3A. The power
traces going to the fuses (which are the thinnest of that power path
AFAICT), are 30 mils wide on a 35u copper board, that's more than 3
times the cross section of 0.1 mm dia wire and 5 times its surface
area to dissipate the heat ...

I'd go for AWG 29 as a minimum size.

Cheers,

Sylvain

> Sure you can, this is more than enough, the B210 is not very power hungry, and the distance will be short. The power traces in the PCB and the wire in the coils will not be remarkably thicker :) The B210 can consume more than what USB 3.0 bus power can provide, hence the recommendation to use an external supply. That means more than 1A of current. Look at http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm and for chassis wiring (which is already the most forgiving spec), 0.1mm leads to a max of ~ 120 mA so you're nearly off by a factor of 10 ... The fuse is rated to 4A, the inductor is rated for 3A. The power traces going to the fuses (which are the thinnest of that power path AFAICT), are 30 mils wide on a 35u copper board, that's more than 3 times the cross section of 0.1 mm dia wire and 5 times its surface area to dissipate the heat ... I'd go for AWG 29 as a minimum size. Cheers, Sylvain
SB
Soumen Banerjee
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 2:16 PM

Hi,

The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive pads
that have been ripped off.

I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to glueing
the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can
be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something
else, I could use a little further clarification.

Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to get
blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?

Regards,
Soumen

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users <
usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:

Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)

Ralph.

From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'

Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hey Ralph,

glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
haven't tackled :)
Two words of warning:

  1. ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
    accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins
    to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
    is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
  2. when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
    isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
    best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
    resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
    anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
    designs of my own).

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:

I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground
and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would
ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with
two-component epoxy glue.

I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.

Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier
to repair when damaged.

Ralph.

From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com
usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via
USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hi Soumen,

Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)

Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.

You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.

Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus

[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/

On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:

Hi,

The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
email.

Thanks,

Soumen


USRP-users mailing list

USRP-users@lists.ettus.com

http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com


USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com

Hi, The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive pads that have been ripped off. I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack, and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something else, I could use a little further clarification. Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it? Regards, Soumen On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users < usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote: > Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :) > > > > Ralph. > > > > *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com] > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM > *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users' > > *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? > > > > Hey Ralph, > > glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for > the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I > haven't tackled :) > Two words of warning: > 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't > accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins > to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane > is rather small, both carrying low voltage. > 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of > isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the > best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the > resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches > anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB > designs of my own). > > Greetings, > Marcus > > On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote: > > I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground > and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the > positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would > ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin > wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident > of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 > connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with > two-component epoxy glue. > > > > I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested. > > > > Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all > were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier > to repair when damaged. > > > > Ralph. > > > > *From:* USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com > <usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com>] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via > USRP-users > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM > *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com > *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? > > > > Hi Soumen, > > Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction, > but just a description of what I see in your photo: > The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that > connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't > fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground > connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power > connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :) > > Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's > no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position. > Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is > T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd > like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens > between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing. > > You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering > circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as > directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 > and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power > supply somehow. > The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test > point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder > something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause > you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could > also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which > is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like > the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply > without a fuse. > > Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon, > Marcus > > [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/ > > On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote: > > Hi, > > The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. > Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the > email. > > > > Thanks, > > Soumen > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > USRP-users mailing list > > USRP-users@lists.ettus.com > > http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > USRP-users mailing list > USRP-users@lists.ettus.com > http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com > >
RA
Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 2:45 PM

Sure, one can do it the official way, but the thin wire will last the consumed power without any issues. A thicker wire is technically better, but it will also be more risky in case of another incident. Also the 0.1 mm are not meant literally, I just recommend a wire thin enough for being ripped off the solder joints without causing too much additional damage. So just use a diameter of maybe 0.25 mm if you feel better with it.

I fix stuff all day (in fact this belongs to my job), and I am through all those discussions more than once :)

Ralph.

-----Original Message-----
From: Sylvain Munaut [mailto:246tnt@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:16 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Cc: usrp-users
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Sure you can, this is more than enough, the B210 is not very power
hungry, and the distance will be short. The power traces in the PCB
and the wire in the coils will not be remarkably thicker :)

The B210 can consume more than what USB 3.0 bus power can provide,
hence the recommendation to use an external supply. That means more
than 1A of current.

Look at http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm  and for chassis wiring
(which is already the most forgiving spec), 0.1mm leads to a max of ~ 120 mA
so you're nearly off by a factor of 10 ...

The fuse is rated to 4A, the inductor is rated for 3A. The power traces going
to the fuses (which are the thinnest of that power path AFAICT), are 30 mils
wide on a 35u copper board, that's more than 3 times the cross section of 0.1
mm dia wire and 5 times its surface area to dissipate the heat ...

I'd go for AWG 29 as a minimum size.

Cheers,

Sylvain
Sure, one can do it the official way, but the thin wire will last the consumed power without any issues. A thicker wire is technically better, but it will also be more risky in case of another incident. Also the 0.1 mm are not meant literally, I just recommend a wire thin enough for being ripped off the solder joints without causing too much additional damage. So just use a diameter of maybe 0.25 mm if you feel better with it. I fix stuff all day (in fact this belongs to my job), and I am through all those discussions more than once :) Ralph. > -----Original Message----- > From: Sylvain Munaut [mailto:246tnt@gmail.com] > Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:16 PM > To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras > Cc: usrp-users > Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? > > > Sure you can, this is more than enough, the B210 is not very power > > hungry, and the distance will be short. The power traces in the PCB > > and the wire in the coils will not be remarkably thicker :) > > The B210 can consume more than what USB 3.0 bus power can provide, > hence the recommendation to use an external supply. That means more > than 1A of current. > > Look at http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm and for chassis wiring > (which is already the most forgiving spec), 0.1mm leads to a max of ~ 120 mA > so you're nearly off by a factor of 10 ... > > The fuse is rated to 4A, the inductor is rated for 3A. The power traces going > to the fuses (which are the thinnest of that power path AFAICT), are 30 mils > wide on a 35u copper board, that's more than 3 times the cross section of 0.1 > mm dia wire and 5 times its surface area to dissipate the heat ... > > I'd go for AWG 29 as a minimum size. > > > Cheers, > > Sylvain
MM
Marcus Müller
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 2:48 PM

Hi Soumen,

the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just
about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't
be saved.

I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire
shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from
the connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do
that, but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable
to it, no matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and
solder to L601 directly.

Regarding why F100 is there:
a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
principle alone :)
b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board
-- for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply
voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the
fuse. Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors
are designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation
doesn't last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage.

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:

Hi,

The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive
pads that have been ripped off.

I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to
glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could
easily re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure
about the positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of
the power jack, and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small,
Im not sure that can be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you
are suggesting something else, I could use a little further clarification.

Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to
get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and
purposes fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?

Regards,
Soumen

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via
USRP-users <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:

 Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)

  

 Ralph.

  

 *From:*Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
 <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>]
 *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
 *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'


 *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be
 fixed?

  

 Hey Ralph,

 glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a
 solution for the "where to actually connect the external power
 supply" problem that I haven't tackled :)
 Two words of warning:
 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you
 don't accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the
 positive pins to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads
 and the ground plane is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch
 of isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit
 that -- in the best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry
 your PCB if the resulting current melts the cable, which then
 flies around, and touches anything that doesn't like the voltage
 (been there, done that with PCB designs of my own).

 Greetings,
 Marcus

 On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:

     I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect
     both ground and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire,
     0.1mm or so) to the positions where they belong, not
     circumventing any filtering. So this would ground, and be F100
     or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin wires will
     increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
     of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF
     MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having it all in place I sealed
     the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.

      

     I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.

      

     Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I
     wish they all were good old through hole mount, what is more
     durable and usually easier to repair when damaged.

      

     Ralph.

      

     *From:*USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com]
     *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via USRP-users
     *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
     *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
     <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>
     *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this
     be fixed?

      

     Hi Soumen,

     Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair
     instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo:
     The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with
     the pads that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is
     ugly, I think it won't fatally damage your B210; you'll just
     have to find another suitable ground connection to attach your
     supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power connector is the
     only thing that seems to have taken damage :)

     Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your
     board; there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the
     connector to the same position.
     Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice
     that there is T600, which you *could* directly feed with
     external supply voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd
     lose all power "sanitation" that happens between J601 and
     T600, which is a bad thing.

     You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor
     buffering circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and
     attach the output as directly as possible to T600, or you
     could locate the input side of F100 and try to solder on a
     cable that you then might connect to your power supply somehow.
     The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a
     test point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than
     trying to solder something to a 0402 package, and reliability
     of power is possibly the cause you'd want to use an external
     power supply in the first place. You could also try to do a
     compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which is
     much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I
     really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an
     external power supply without a fuse.

     Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
     Marcus

     [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/

     On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:

         Hi,

         The board fell off the table and the power port has come
         off the board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached
         an image of the board to the email.

          

         Thanks,

         Soumen





         _______________________________________________

         USRP-users mailing list

         USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>

         http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com

      

  


 _______________________________________________
 USRP-users mailing list
 USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
 http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
Hi Soumen, the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be saved. I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that, but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 directly. Regarding why F100 is there: a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by principle alone :) b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board -- for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage. Greetings, Marcus On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote: > Hi, > > The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive > pads that have been ripped off. > > I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to > glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could > easily re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure > about the positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of > the power jack, and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, > Im not sure that can be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you > are suggesting something else, I could use a little further clarification. > > Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to > get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and > purposes fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it? > > Regards, > Soumen > > On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via > USRP-users <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com > <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>> wrote: > > Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :) > > > > Ralph. > > > > *From:*Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com > <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>] > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM > *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users' > > > *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be > fixed? > > > > Hey Ralph, > > glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a > solution for the "where to actually connect the external power > supply" problem that I haven't tackled :) > Two words of warning: > 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you > don't accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the > positive pins to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads > and the ground plane is rather small, both carrying low voltage. > 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch > of isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit > that -- in the best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry > your PCB if the resulting current melts the cable, which then > flies around, and touches anything that doesn't like the voltage > (been there, done that with PCB designs of my own). > > Greetings, > Marcus > > On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote: > > I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect > both ground and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, > 0.1mm or so) to the positions where they belong, not > circumventing any filtering. So this would ground, and be F100 > or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin wires will > increase chances that the board will survive a second incident > of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF > MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having it all in place I sealed > the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue. > > > > I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested. > > > > Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I > wish they all were good old through hole mount, what is more > durable and usually easier to repair when damaged. > > > > Ralph. > > > > *From:*USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] > *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via USRP-users > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM > *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com > <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> > *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this > be fixed? > > > > Hi Soumen, > > Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair > instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo: > The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with > the pads that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is > ugly, I think it won't fatally damage your B210; you'll just > have to find another suitable ground connection to attach your > supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power connector is the > only thing that seems to have taken damage :) > > Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your > board; there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the > connector to the same position. > Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice > that there is T600, which you *could* directly feed with > external supply voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd > lose all power "sanitation" that happens between J601 and > T600, which is a bad thing. > > You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor > buffering circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and > attach the output as directly as possible to T600, or you > could locate the input side of F100 and try to solder on a > cable that you then might connect to your power supply somehow. > The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a > test point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than > trying to solder something to a 0402 package, and reliability > of power is possibly the cause you'd want to use an external > power supply in the first place. You could also try to do a > compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which is > much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I > really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an > external power supply without a fuse. > > Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon, > Marcus > > [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/ > > On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote: > > Hi, > > The board fell off the table and the power port has come > off the board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached > an image of the board to the email. > > > > Thanks, > > Soumen > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > USRP-users mailing list > > USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com> > > http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > USRP-users mailing list > USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com> > http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com > >
RA
Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 2:58 PM

A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply with
excessive voltage or reversed polarity.

Ralph.

From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
To: Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Cc: usrp-users
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hi Soumen,

the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just
about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be
saved.

I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire shouldn't
be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the connetor
through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that, but it's so
tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no matter how
thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 directly.

Regarding why F100 is there:
a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
principle alone :)
b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board --
for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply voltage
to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. Also, the
power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are designed with
quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't last too long or
doesn't exceed a certain voltage.

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:

Hi,

The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive pads
that have been ripped off.

I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to glueing
the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can be
done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something else,
I could use a little further clarification.

Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to get
blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?

Regards,

Soumen

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users
<usrp-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com > wrote:

Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)

Ralph.

From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com ]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'

Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hey Ralph,

glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for the
"where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I haven't
tackled :)
Two words of warning:

  1. ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
    accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins to
    ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane is
    rather small, both carrying low voltage.
  2. when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
    isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
    best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
    resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
    anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
    designs of my own).

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:

I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground and

  • with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions
    where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would ground,
    and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin wires will
    increase chances that the board will survive a second incident of this kind.
    I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having
    it all in place I sealed the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.

I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.

Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier to
repair when damaged.

Ralph.

From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] On Behalf Of
Marcus Müller via USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hi Soumen,

Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)

Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no
way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.

You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and
try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply
somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.

Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus

[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/

On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:

Hi,

The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can
this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email.

Thanks,

Soumen


USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com


USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com

A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply with excessive voltage or reversed polarity. Ralph. From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM To: Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras Cc: usrp-users Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? Hi Soumen, the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be saved. I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that, but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 directly. Regarding why F100 is there: a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by principle alone :) b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board -- for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage. Greetings, Marcus On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote: Hi, The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive pads that have been ripped off. I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack, and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something else, I could use a little further clarification. Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it? Regards, Soumen On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> > wrote: Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :) Ralph. From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com> ] Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users' Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? Hey Ralph, glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I haven't tackled :) Two words of warning: 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane is rather small, both carrying low voltage. 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB designs of my own). Greetings, Marcus On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote: I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue. I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested. Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier to repair when damaged. Ralph. From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Müller via USRP-users Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? Hi Soumen, Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo: The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :) Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position. Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing. You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply somehow. The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply without a fuse. Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon, Marcus [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/ On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote: Hi, The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email. Thanks, Soumen _______________________________________________ USRP-users mailing list USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com _______________________________________________ USRP-users mailing list USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
SB
Soumen Banerjee
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 3:25 PM

Hi,
Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use another
fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole lot?
Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it?
Regards,
Soumen
On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" ralph@schmid.xxx wrote:

A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply with
excessive voltage or reversed polarity.

Ralph.

From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
To: Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Cc: usrp-users
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hi Soumen,

the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just
about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be
saved.

I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire shouldn't
be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the connetor
through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that, but it's so
tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no matter how
thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 directly.

Regarding why F100 is there:
a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
principle alone :)
b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board --
for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply
voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse.
Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are
designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't
last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage.

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:

Hi,

The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive pads
that have been ripped off.

I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to
glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can
be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something
else, I could use a little further clarification.

Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to get
blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?

Regards,

Soumen

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users <
usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:

Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)

Ralph.

From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'

Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hey Ralph,

glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
haven't tackled :)
Two words of warning:

  1. ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
    accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins
    to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
    is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
  2. when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
    isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
    best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
    resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
    anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
    designs of my own).

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:

I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground
and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would
ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with
two-component epoxy glue.

I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.

Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier
to repair when damaged.

Ralph.

From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com
usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via
USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hi Soumen,

Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)

Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.

You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.

Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus

[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/

On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:

Hi,

The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
email.

Thanks,

Soumen


USRP-users mailing list

USRP-users@lists.ettus.com

http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com


USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com

Hi, Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it? Regards, Soumen On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" <ralph@schmid.xxx> wrote: > A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply with > excessive voltage or reversed polarity. > > > > Ralph. > > > > *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com] > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM > *To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras > *Cc:* usrp-users > *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? > > > > Hi Soumen, > > the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just > about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be > saved. > > I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire shouldn't > be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the connetor > through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that, but it's so > tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no matter how > thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 directly. > > Regarding why F100 is there: > a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by > principle alone :) > b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a > rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board -- > for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply > voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. > Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are > designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't > last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage. > > Greetings, > Marcus > > On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote: > > Hi, > > > > The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive pads > that have been ripped off. > > > > I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to > glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily > re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the > positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack, > and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can > be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something > else, I could use a little further clarification. > > > > Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to get > blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes > fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it? > > > > Regards, > > Soumen > > > > On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users < > usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote: > > Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :) > > > > Ralph. > > > > *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com] > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM > *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users' > > > *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? > > > > Hey Ralph, > > glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for > the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I > haven't tackled :) > Two words of warning: > 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't > accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins > to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane > is rather small, both carrying low voltage. > 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of > isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the > best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the > resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches > anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB > designs of my own). > > Greetings, > Marcus > > On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote: > > I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground > and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the > positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would > ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin > wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident > of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 > connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with > two-component epoxy glue. > > > > I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested. > > > > Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all > were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier > to repair when damaged. > > > > Ralph. > > > > *From:* USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com > <usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com>] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via > USRP-users > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM > *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com > *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? > > > > Hi Soumen, > > Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction, > but just a description of what I see in your photo: > The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that > connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't > fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground > connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power > connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :) > > Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's > no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position. > Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is > T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd > like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens > between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing. > > You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering > circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as > directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 > and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power > supply somehow. > The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test > point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder > something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause > you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could > also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which > is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like > the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply > without a fuse. > > Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon, > Marcus > > [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/ > > On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote: > > Hi, > > The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. > Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the > email. > > > > Thanks, > > Soumen > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > USRP-users mailing list > > USRP-users@lists.ettus.com > > http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > USRP-users mailing list > USRP-users@lists.ettus.com > http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com > > > > >
SB
Soumen Banerjee
Wed, Feb 18, 2015 3:47 AM

Hi,

In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont want
to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive attached it
again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the choice of fuse), I'd
just go ahead and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it.

Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I mostly
use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different color. I found
a description for the green version of the board though and it mentioned
that it glows green on external power. Does that hold for my(white) board
as well?

Regards,
Soumen

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee soumen08@gmail.com wrote:

Hi,
Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use
another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole
lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it?
Regards,
Soumen
On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" ralph@schmid.xxx
wrote:

A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply with
excessive voltage or reversed polarity.

Ralph.

From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
To: Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Cc: usrp-users
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hi Soumen,

the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just
about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be
saved.

I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire
shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the
connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that,
but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no
matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601
directly.

Regarding why F100 is there:
a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
principle alone :)
b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board --
for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply
voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse.
Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are
designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't
last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage.

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:

Hi,

The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive
pads that have been ripped off.

I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to
glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can
be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something
else, I could use a little further clarification.

Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to
get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?

Regards,

Soumen

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users <
usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:

Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)

Ralph.

From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'

Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hey Ralph,

glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
haven't tackled :)
Two words of warning:

  1. ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
    accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins
    to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
    is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
  2. when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
    isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
    best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
    resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
    anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
    designs of my own).

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:

I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground
and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would
ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with
two-component epoxy glue.

I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.

Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier
to repair when damaged.

Ralph.

From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com
usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via
USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hi Soumen,

Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads
that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)

Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there
is T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but
I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.

You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.

Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus

[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/

On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:

Hi,

The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
email.

Thanks,

Soumen


USRP-users mailing list

USRP-users@lists.ettus.com

http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com


USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com

Hi, In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont want to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive attached it again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the choice of fuse), I'd just go ahead and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it. Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different color. I found a description for the green version of the board though and it mentioned that it glows green on external power. Does that hold for my(white) board as well? Regards, Soumen On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com> wrote: > Hi, > Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use > another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole > lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it? > Regards, > Soumen > On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" <ralph@schmid.xxx> > wrote: > >> A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply with >> excessive voltage or reversed polarity. >> >> >> >> Ralph. >> >> >> >> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com] >> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM >> *To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras >> *Cc:* usrp-users >> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? >> >> >> >> Hi Soumen, >> >> the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just >> about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be >> saved. >> >> I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire >> shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the >> connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that, >> but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no >> matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 >> directly. >> >> Regarding why F100 is there: >> a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by >> principle alone :) >> b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a >> rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board -- >> for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply >> voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. >> Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are >> designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't >> last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage. >> >> Greetings, >> Marcus >> >> On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote: >> >> Hi, >> >> >> >> The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive >> pads that have been ripped off. >> >> >> >> I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to >> glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily >> re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the >> positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack, >> and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can >> be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something >> else, I could use a little further clarification. >> >> >> >> Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to >> get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes >> fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it? >> >> >> >> Regards, >> >> Soumen >> >> >> >> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users < >> usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote: >> >> Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :) >> >> >> >> Ralph. >> >> >> >> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com] >> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM >> *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users' >> >> >> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? >> >> >> >> Hey Ralph, >> >> glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for >> the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I >> haven't tackled :) >> Two words of warning: >> 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't >> accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins >> to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane >> is rather small, both carrying low voltage. >> 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of >> isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the >> best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the >> resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches >> anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB >> designs of my own). >> >> Greetings, >> Marcus >> >> On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote: >> >> I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground >> and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the >> positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would >> ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin >> wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident >> of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 >> connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with >> two-component epoxy glue. >> >> >> >> I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested. >> >> >> >> Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all >> were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier >> to repair when damaged. >> >> >> >> Ralph. >> >> >> >> *From:* USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com >> <usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com>] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via >> USRP-users >> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM >> *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com >> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? >> >> >> >> Hi Soumen, >> >> Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction, >> but just a description of what I see in your photo: >> The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads >> that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't >> fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground >> connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power >> connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :) >> >> Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's >> no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position. >> Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there >> is T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but >> I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens >> between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing. >> >> You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering >> circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as >> directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 >> and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power >> supply somehow. >> The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test >> point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder >> something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause >> you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could >> also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which >> is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like >> the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply >> without a fuse. >> >> Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon, >> Marcus >> >> [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/ >> >> On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote: >> >> Hi, >> >> The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. >> Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the >> email. >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> Soumen >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> USRP-users mailing list >> >> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com >> >> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> USRP-users mailing list >> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com >> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com >> >> >> >> >> >
MM
Marcus Müller
Wed, Feb 18, 2015 12:01 PM

Hi Soumen,

yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs from the pad
of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo.

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:

Hi,

In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont
want to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive
attached it again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the
choice of fuse), I'd just go ahead and try to make this work by using
my own fuse with it.

Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I
mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different
color. I found a description for the green version of the board though
and it mentioned that it glows green on external power. Does that hold
for my(white) board as well?

Regards,
Soumen

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com
mailto:soumen08@gmail.com> wrote:

 Hi,
 Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I
 use another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action
 matter a whole lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and
 get away with it?
 Regards,
 Soumen

 On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras"
 <ralph@schmid.xxx> wrote:

     A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power
     supply with excessive voltage or reversed polarity.

      

     Ralph.

      

     *From:*Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
     <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>]
     *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
     *To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
     *Cc:* usrp-users
     *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this
     be fixed?

      

     Hi Soumen,

     the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was
     really just about the connector having a place to sit. The
     positive contacts can't be saved.

     I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the
     wire shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the
     current from the connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is
     the right fuse to do that, but it's so tiny that you'll have a
     hard time soldering any cable to it, no matter how thin, thus
     my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 directly.

     Regarding why F100 is there:
     a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such
     inputs by principle alone :)
     b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be
     related to a rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it
     still protects the board -- for example, anything that falls
     onto the board might shorten supply voltage to ground, which
     would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. Also, the
     power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are
     designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload
     situation doesn't last too long or doesn't exceed a certain
     voltage.

     Greetings,
     Marcus

     On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:

         Hi,

          

         The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is
         the positive pads that have been ripped off. 

          

         I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with
         respect to glueing the power jack back onto the board. If
         I did that, I could easily re-establish the connection
         with the ground pad but Im not sure about the positive
         pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the
         power jack, and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so
         small, Im not sure that can be done with a micro-tip
         soldering iron. If you are suggesting something else, I
         could use a little further clarification.

          

         Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the
         fuse were to get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board
         was, for all intents and purposes fried? Unless of course
         if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?

          

         Regards,

         Soumen

          

         On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
         via USRP-users <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
         <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>> wrote:

             Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)

              

             Ralph.

              

             *From:*Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
             <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>]
             *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
             *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'


             *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken -
             can this be fixed?

              

             Hey Ralph,

             glueing in the connector at the old position sounds
             like a solution for the "where to actually connect the
             external power supply" problem that I haven't tackled :)
             Two words of warning:
             1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make
             sure you don't accidentally glue the connector in in a
             way that shorts the positive pins to ground; clearance
             between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
             is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
             2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges
             don't scratch of isolation. That usually gives you the
             kind of short circuit that -- in the best case --
             kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
             resulting current melts the cable, which then flies
             around, and touches anything that doesn't like the
             voltage (been there, done that with PCB designs of my
             own).

             Greetings,
             Marcus

             On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:

                 I would glue the connector in place again, and
                 then connect both ground and + with thin (!) wires
                 (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
                 positions where they belong, not circumventing any
                 filtering. So this would ground, and be F100 or
                 the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
                 wires will increase chances that the board will
                 survive a second incident of this kind. I had to
                 do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
                 connector. After having it all in place I sealed
                 the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.

                  

                 I can send photos later this day if anyone is
                 interested.

                  

                 Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a
                 PITA, I wish they all were good old through hole
                 mount, what is more durable and usually easier to
                 repair when damaged.

                  

                 Ralph.

                  

                 *From:*USRP-users
                 [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On
                 Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via USRP-users
                 *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
                 *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
                 <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>
                 *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken
                 - can this be fixed?

                  

                 Hi Soumen,

                 Disclaimer first: this is not an official
                 maintenance/repair instruction, but just a
                 description of what I see in your photo:
                 The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane,
                 along with the pads that connect the power supply
                 ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
                 fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find
                 another suitable ground connection to attach your
                 supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
                 connector is the only thing that seems to have
                 taken damage :)

                 Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads
                 of your board; there's no way you'll be able to
                 re-solder the connector to the same position.
                 Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1],
                 you'll notice that there is T600, which you
                 *could* directly feed with external supply
                 voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd lose
                 all power "sanitation" that happens between J601
                 and T600, which is a bad thing.

                 You could either duplicate the protection/hf
                 choke/capacitor buffering circuit consisting of
                 F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
                 directly as possible to T600, or you could locate
                 the input side of F100 and try to solder on a
                 cable that you then might connect to your power
                 supply somehow.
                 The first option is more complicated, but
                 attaching power to a test point/pin header hole
                 might be much more reliable than trying to solder
                 something to a 0402 package, and reliability of
                 power is possibly the cause you'd want to use an
                 external power supply in the first place. You
                 could also try to do a compromise: solder a lead
                 to the F100-side of L601 (which is much much
                 larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I
                 really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not
                 to use an external power supply without a fuse.

                 Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
                 Marcus

                 [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/

                 On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via
                 USRP-users wrote:

                     Hi,

                     The board fell off the table and the power
                     port has come off the board. Can this be fixed
                     in any way? I've attached an image of the
                     board to the email.

                      

                     Thanks,

                     Soumen




                     _______________________________________________

                     USRP-users mailing list

                     USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>

                     http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com

                  

              


             _______________________________________________
             USRP-users mailing list
             USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
             <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
             http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com

          

      
Hi Soumen, yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs from the pad of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo. Greetings, Marcus On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote: > Hi, > > In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont > want to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive > attached it again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the > choice of fuse), I'd just go ahead and try to make this work by using > my own fuse with it. > > Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I > mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different > color. I found a description for the green version of the board though > and it mentioned that it glows green on external power. Does that hold > for my(white) board as well? > > Regards, > Soumen > > On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com > <mailto:soumen08@gmail.com>> wrote: > > Hi, > Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I > use another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action > matter a whole lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and > get away with it? > Regards, > Soumen > > On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" > <ralph@schmid.xxx> wrote: > > A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power > supply with excessive voltage or reversed polarity. > > > > Ralph. > > > > *From:*Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com > <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>] > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM > *To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras > *Cc:* usrp-users > *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this > be fixed? > > > > Hi Soumen, > > the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was > really just about the connector having a place to sit. The > positive contacts can't be saved. > > I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the > wire shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the > current from the connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is > the right fuse to do that, but it's so tiny that you'll have a > hard time soldering any cable to it, no matter how thin, thus > my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 directly. > > Regarding why F100 is there: > a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such > inputs by principle alone :) > b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be > related to a rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it > still protects the board -- for example, anything that falls > onto the board might shorten supply voltage to ground, which > would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. Also, the > power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are > designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload > situation doesn't last too long or doesn't exceed a certain > voltage. > > Greetings, > Marcus > > On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote: > > Hi, > > > > The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is > the positive pads that have been ripped off. > > > > I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with > respect to glueing the power jack back onto the board. If > I did that, I could easily re-establish the connection > with the ground pad but Im not sure about the positive > pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the > power jack, and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so > small, Im not sure that can be done with a micro-tip > soldering iron. If you are suggesting something else, I > could use a little further clarification. > > > > Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the > fuse were to get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board > was, for all intents and purposes fried? Unless of course > if the fuse is replaceable. Is it? > > > > Regards, > > Soumen > > > > On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras > via USRP-users <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com > <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>> wrote: > > Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :) > > > > Ralph. > > > > *From:*Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com > <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>] > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM > *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users' > > > *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - > can this be fixed? > > > > Hey Ralph, > > glueing in the connector at the old position sounds > like a solution for the "where to actually connect the > external power supply" problem that I haven't tackled :) > Two words of warning: > 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make > sure you don't accidentally glue the connector in in a > way that shorts the positive pins to ground; clearance > between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane > is rather small, both carrying low voltage. > 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges > don't scratch of isolation. That usually gives you the > kind of short circuit that -- in the best case -- > kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the > resulting current melts the cable, which then flies > around, and touches anything that doesn't like the > voltage (been there, done that with PCB designs of my > own). > > Greetings, > Marcus > > On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote: > > I would glue the connector in place again, and > then connect both ground and + with thin (!) wires > (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the > positions where they belong, not circumventing any > filtering. So this would ground, and be F100 or > the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin > wires will increase chances that the board will > survive a second incident of this kind. I had to > do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 > connector. After having it all in place I sealed > the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue. > > > > I can send photos later this day if anyone is > interested. > > > > Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a > PITA, I wish they all were good old through hole > mount, what is more durable and usually easier to > repair when damaged. > > > > Ralph. > > > > *From:*USRP-users > [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On > Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via USRP-users > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM > *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com > <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> > *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken > - can this be fixed? > > > > Hi Soumen, > > Disclaimer first: this is not an official > maintenance/repair instruction, but just a > description of what I see in your photo: > The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, > along with the pads that connect the power supply > ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't > fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find > another suitable ground connection to attach your > supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power > connector is the only thing that seems to have > taken damage :) > > Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads > of your board; there's no way you'll be able to > re-solder the connector to the same position. > Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], > you'll notice that there is T600, which you > *could* directly feed with external supply > voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd lose > all power "sanitation" that happens between J601 > and T600, which is a bad thing. > > You could either duplicate the protection/hf > choke/capacitor buffering circuit consisting of > F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as > directly as possible to T600, or you could locate > the input side of F100 and try to solder on a > cable that you then might connect to your power > supply somehow. > The first option is more complicated, but > attaching power to a test point/pin header hole > might be much more reliable than trying to solder > something to a 0402 package, and reliability of > power is possibly the cause you'd want to use an > external power supply in the first place. You > could also try to do a compromise: solder a lead > to the F100-side of L601 (which is much much > larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I > really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not > to use an external power supply without a fuse. > > Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon, > Marcus > > [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/ > > On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via > USRP-users wrote: > > Hi, > > The board fell off the table and the power > port has come off the board. Can this be fixed > in any way? I've attached an image of the > board to the email. > > > > Thanks, > > Soumen > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > USRP-users mailing list > > USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com> > > http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > USRP-users mailing list > USRP-users@lists.ettus.com > <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com> > http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com > > > > > >
SB
Soumen Banerjee
Wed, Feb 18, 2015 2:13 PM

Thanks a lot guys. I'm going to try putting this together right away and
see if it works.
Regards,
Soumen
On 18-Feb-2015 5:31 pm, "Marcus Müller" marcus.mueller@ettus.com wrote:

Hi Soumen,

yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs from the pad
of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo.

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:

Hi,

In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont
want to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive attached
it again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the choice of fuse),
I'd just go ahead and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it.

Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I
mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different color. I
found a description for the green version of the board though and it
mentioned that it glows green on external power. Does that hold for
my(white) board as well?

Regards,
Soumen

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee soumen08@gmail.com
wrote:

Hi,
Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use
another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole
lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it?
Regards,
Soumen
On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" ralph@schmid.xxx
ralph@schmid.xxx wrote:

A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply with
excessive voltage or reversed polarity.

Ralph.

From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
To: Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Cc: usrp-users
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hi Soumen,

the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just
about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be
saved.

I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire
shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the
connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that,
but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no
matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601
directly.

Regarding why F100 is there:
a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
principle alone :)
b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board --
for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply
voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse.
Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are
designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't
last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage.

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:

Hi,

The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive
pads that have been ripped off.

I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to
glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can
be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something
else, I could use a little further clarification.

Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to
get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?

Regards,

Soumen

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users <
usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:

Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)

Ralph.

From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'

Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hey Ralph,

glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
haven't tackled :)
Two words of warning:

  1. ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
    accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins
    to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
    is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
  2. when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
    isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
    best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
    resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
    anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
    designs of my own).

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:

I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground
and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would
ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with
two-component epoxy glue.

I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.

Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier
to repair when damaged.

Ralph.

From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com
usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via
USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hi Soumen,

Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair
instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads
that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)

Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there
is T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but
I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.

You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.

Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus

[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/

On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:

Hi,

The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
email.

Thanks,

Soumen


USRP-users mailing list

USRP-users@lists.ettus.com

http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com


USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com

Thanks a lot guys. I'm going to try putting this together right away and see if it works. Regards, Soumen On 18-Feb-2015 5:31 pm, "Marcus Müller" <marcus.mueller@ettus.com> wrote: > Hi Soumen, > > yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs from the pad > of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo. > > Greetings, > Marcus > > > On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote: > > Hi, > > In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont > want to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive attached > it again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the choice of fuse), > I'd just go ahead and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it. > > Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I > mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different color. I > found a description for the green version of the board though and it > mentioned that it glows green on external power. Does that hold for > my(white) board as well? > > Regards, > Soumen > > On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com> > wrote: > >> Hi, >> Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use >> another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole >> lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it? >> Regards, >> Soumen >> On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" <ralph@schmid.xxx> >> <ralph@schmid.xxx> wrote: >> >>> A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply with >>> excessive voltage or reversed polarity. >>> >>> >>> >>> Ralph. >>> >>> >>> >>> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com] >>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM >>> *To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras >>> *Cc:* usrp-users >>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? >>> >>> >>> >>> Hi Soumen, >>> >>> the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just >>> about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be >>> saved. >>> >>> I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire >>> shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the >>> connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that, >>> but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no >>> matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 >>> directly. >>> >>> Regarding why F100 is there: >>> a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by >>> principle alone :) >>> b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a >>> rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board -- >>> for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply >>> voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. >>> Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are >>> designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't >>> last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage. >>> >>> Greetings, >>> Marcus >>> >>> On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote: >>> >>> Hi, >>> >>> >>> >>> The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive >>> pads that have been ripped off. >>> >>> >>> >>> I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to >>> glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily >>> re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the >>> positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack, >>> and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can >>> be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something >>> else, I could use a little further clarification. >>> >>> >>> >>> Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to >>> get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes >>> fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it? >>> >>> >>> >>> Regards, >>> >>> Soumen >>> >>> >>> >>> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users < >>> usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote: >>> >>> Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :) >>> >>> >>> >>> Ralph. >>> >>> >>> >>> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com] >>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM >>> *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users' >>> >>> >>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? >>> >>> >>> >>> Hey Ralph, >>> >>> glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for >>> the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I >>> haven't tackled :) >>> Two words of warning: >>> 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't >>> accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins >>> to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane >>> is rather small, both carrying low voltage. >>> 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of >>> isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the >>> best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the >>> resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches >>> anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB >>> designs of my own). >>> >>> Greetings, >>> Marcus >>> >>> On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote: >>> >>> I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground >>> and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the >>> positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would >>> ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin >>> wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident >>> of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 >>> connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with >>> two-component epoxy glue. >>> >>> >>> >>> I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested. >>> >>> >>> >>> Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all >>> were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier >>> to repair when damaged. >>> >>> >>> >>> Ralph. >>> >>> >>> >>> *From:* USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com >>> <usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com>] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via >>> USRP-users >>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM >>> *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com >>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? >>> >>> >>> >>> Hi Soumen, >>> >>> Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair >>> instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo: >>> The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads >>> that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't >>> fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground >>> connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power >>> connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :) >>> >>> Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's >>> no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position. >>> Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there >>> is T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but >>> I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens >>> between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing. >>> >>> You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering >>> circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as >>> directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 >>> and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power >>> supply somehow. >>> The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test >>> point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder >>> something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause >>> you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could >>> also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which >>> is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like >>> the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply >>> without a fuse. >>> >>> Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon, >>> Marcus >>> >>> [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/ >>> >>> On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote: >>> >>> Hi, >>> >>> The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. >>> Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the >>> email. >>> >>> >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Soumen >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> USRP-users mailing list >>> >>> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com >>> >>> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> USRP-users mailing list >>> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com >>> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> > >
SB
Soumen Banerjee
Thu, Feb 19, 2015 12:00 PM

Hi,
I've put the connector back together and Im not sure how to verify if the
entire thing worked or not.

Is there any indication whether the board is running on bus power or
external power? When I connected the board on external power (without
connecting the USB interface), no indicator lights came up. Does that mean
that the soldering etc didnt work? I have the white USRP B210.

Regards,
Soumen

On Wed, Feb 18, 2015 at 7:43 PM, Soumen Banerjee soumen08@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks a lot guys. I'm going to try putting this together right away and
see if it works.
Regards,
Soumen
On 18-Feb-2015 5:31 pm, "Marcus Müller" marcus.mueller@ettus.com wrote:

Hi Soumen,

yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs from the pad
of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo.

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:

Hi,

In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont
want to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive attached
it again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the choice of fuse),
I'd just go ahead and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it.

Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I
mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different color. I
found a description for the green version of the board though and it
mentioned that it glows green on external power. Does that hold for
my(white) board as well?

Regards,
Soumen

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee soumen08@gmail.com
wrote:

Hi,
Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use
another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole
lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it?
Regards,
Soumen
On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" ralph@schmid.xxx
ralph@schmid.xxx wrote:

A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply
with excessive voltage or reversed polarity.

Ralph.

From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
To: Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Cc: usrp-users
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hi Soumen,

the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really
just about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't
be saved.

I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire
shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the
connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that,
but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no
matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601
directly.

Regarding why F100 is there:
a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
principle alone :)
b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board --
for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply
voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse.
Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are
designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't
last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage.

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:

Hi,

The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive
pads that have been ripped off.

I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to
glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can
be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something
else, I could use a little further clarification.

Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to
get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?

Regards,

Soumen

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users
usrp-users@lists.ettus.com wrote:

Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)

Ralph.

From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'

Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hey Ralph,

glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
haven't tackled :)
Two words of warning:

  1. ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
    accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins
    to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
    is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
  2. when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
    isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
    best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
    resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
    anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
    designs of my own).

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:

I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground
and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would
ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with
two-component epoxy glue.

I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.

Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they
all were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually
easier to repair when damaged.

Ralph.

From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com
usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via
USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?

Hi Soumen,

Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair
instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads
that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)

Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board;
there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same
position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there
is T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but
I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.

You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.

Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus

[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/

On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:

Hi,

The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
email.

Thanks,

Soumen


USRP-users mailing list

USRP-users@lists.ettus.com

http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com


USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com

Hi, I've put the connector back together and Im not sure how to verify if the entire thing worked or not. Is there any indication whether the board is running on bus power or external power? When I connected the board on external power (without connecting the USB interface), no indicator lights came up. Does that mean that the soldering etc didnt work? I have the white USRP B210. Regards, Soumen On Wed, Feb 18, 2015 at 7:43 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com> wrote: > Thanks a lot guys. I'm going to try putting this together right away and > see if it works. > Regards, > Soumen > On 18-Feb-2015 5:31 pm, "Marcus Müller" <marcus.mueller@ettus.com> wrote: > >> Hi Soumen, >> >> yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs from the pad >> of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo. >> >> Greetings, >> Marcus >> >> >> On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote: >> >> Hi, >> >> In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont >> want to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive attached >> it again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the choice of fuse), >> I'd just go ahead and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it. >> >> Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I >> mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different color. I >> found a description for the green version of the board though and it >> mentioned that it glows green on external power. Does that hold for >> my(white) board as well? >> >> Regards, >> Soumen >> >> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com> >> wrote: >> >>> Hi, >>> Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use >>> another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole >>> lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it? >>> Regards, >>> Soumen >>> On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" <ralph@schmid.xxx> >>> <ralph@schmid.xxx> wrote: >>> >>>> A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply >>>> with excessive voltage or reversed polarity. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Ralph. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com] >>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM >>>> *To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras >>>> *Cc:* usrp-users >>>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Hi Soumen, >>>> >>>> the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really >>>> just about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't >>>> be saved. >>>> >>>> I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire >>>> shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the >>>> connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that, >>>> but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no >>>> matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 >>>> directly. >>>> >>>> Regarding why F100 is there: >>>> a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by >>>> principle alone :) >>>> b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a >>>> rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board -- >>>> for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply >>>> voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. >>>> Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are >>>> designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't >>>> last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage. >>>> >>>> Greetings, >>>> Marcus >>>> >>>> On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote: >>>> >>>> Hi, >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive >>>> pads that have been ripped off. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to >>>> glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily >>>> re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the >>>> positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack, >>>> and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can >>>> be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something >>>> else, I could use a little further clarification. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to >>>> get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes >>>> fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it? >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Regards, >>>> >>>> Soumen >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users >>>> <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote: >>>> >>>> Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :) >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Ralph. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com] >>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM >>>> *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users' >>>> >>>> >>>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Hey Ralph, >>>> >>>> glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for >>>> the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I >>>> haven't tackled :) >>>> Two words of warning: >>>> 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't >>>> accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins >>>> to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane >>>> is rather small, both carrying low voltage. >>>> 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of >>>> isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the >>>> best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the >>>> resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches >>>> anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB >>>> designs of my own). >>>> >>>> Greetings, >>>> Marcus >>>> >>>> On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote: >>>> >>>> I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground >>>> and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the >>>> positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would >>>> ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin >>>> wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident >>>> of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 >>>> connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with >>>> two-component epoxy glue. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they >>>> all were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually >>>> easier to repair when damaged. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Ralph. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> *From:* USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com >>>> <usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com>] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via >>>> USRP-users >>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM >>>> *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com >>>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed? >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Hi Soumen, >>>> >>>> Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair >>>> instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo: >>>> The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads >>>> that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't >>>> fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground >>>> connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power >>>> connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :) >>>> >>>> Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; >>>> there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same >>>> position. >>>> Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there >>>> is T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but >>>> I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens >>>> between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing. >>>> >>>> You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering >>>> circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as >>>> directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 >>>> and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power >>>> supply somehow. >>>> The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test >>>> point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder >>>> something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause >>>> you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could >>>> also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which >>>> is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like >>>> the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply >>>> without a fuse. >>>> >>>> Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon, >>>> Marcus >>>> >>>> [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/ >>>> >>>> On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote: >>>> >>>> Hi, >>>> >>>> The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. >>>> Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the >>>> email. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> >>>> Soumen >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> USRP-users mailing list >>>> >>>> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com >>>> >>>> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> USRP-users mailing list >>>> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com >>>> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >> >>
MM
Marcus Müller
Thu, Feb 19, 2015 12:51 PM

Hi Soumen,
if connecting external doesn't power the device, your repair was not
successful.
How did you connect the connector to L601 / your fuse? How did you
connect connector ground to device ground?

Greetings,
Marcus

On 02/19/2015 01:00 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:

Hi,
I've put the connector back together and Im not sure how to verify if
the entire thing worked or not.

Is there any indication whether the board is running on bus power or
external power? When I connected the board on external power (without
connecting the USB interface), no indicator lights came up. Does that
mean that the soldering etc didnt work? I have the white USRP B210.

Regards,
Soumen

On Wed, Feb 18, 2015 at 7:43 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com
mailto:soumen08@gmail.com> wrote:

 Thanks a lot guys. I'm going to try putting this together right
 away and see if it works.
 Regards,
 Soumen

 On 18-Feb-2015 5:31 pm, "Marcus Müller" <marcus.mueller@ettus.com
 <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>> wrote:

     Hi Soumen,

     yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs
     from the pad of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo.

     Greetings,
     Marcus


     On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
     Hi,

     In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my
     picture? I dont want to end up soldering on the wrong end if
     I can help it :) Ive attached it again for reference. Once Im
     sure on this one(and the choice of fuse), I'd just go ahead
     and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it.

     Would the status light glow a different color on external
     power? I mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there
     is a different color. I found a description for the green
     version of the board though and it mentioned that it glows
     green on external power. Does that hold for my(white) board
     as well?

     Regards,
     Soumen

     On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee
     <soumen08@gmail.com <mailto:soumen08@gmail.com>> wrote:

         Hi,
         Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India.
         Can I use another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the
         fast action matter a whole lot? Perhaps I could use a
         lower rating, say 2A and get away with it?
         Regards,
         Soumen

         On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras"
         <ralph@schmid.xxx> <mailto:ralph@schmid.xxx> wrote:

             A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong
             power supply with excessive voltage or reversed
             polarity.

              

             Ralph.

              

             *From:*Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
             <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>]
             *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
             *To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
             *Cc:* usrp-users
             *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken -
             can this be fixed?

              

             Hi Soumen,

             the idea that you could glue back the connector in
             place was really just about the connector having a
             place to sit. The positive contacts can't be saved.

             I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph),
             but the wire shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the
             idea is to lead the current from the connetor through
             a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do
             that, but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time
             soldering any cable to it, no matter how thin, thus
             my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601
             directly.

             Regarding why F100 is there:
             a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect
             such inputs by principle alone :)
             b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would
             usually be related to a rather drastic board failure
             somewhere else, it still protects the board -- for
             example, anything that falls onto the board might
             shorten supply voltage to ground, which would destroy
             the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. Also, the power
             converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors
             are designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the
             overload situation doesn't last too long or doesn't
             exceed a certain voltage.

             Greetings,
             Marcus

             On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:

                 Hi,

                  

                 The ground pad is actually available on the
                 board. It is the positive pads that have been
                 ripped off. 

                  

                 I'm a little unsure of what you guys are
                 suggesting with respect to glueing the power jack
                 back onto the board. If I did that, I could
                 easily re-establish the connection with the
                 ground pad but Im not sure about the positive
                 pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of
                 the power jack, and solder it before the F100?
                 The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can be
                 done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are
                 suggesting something else, I could use a little
                 further clarification.

                  

                 Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at
                 all. If the fuse were to get blown, wouldnt it
                 mean that the board was, for all intents and
                 purposes fried? Unless of course if the fuse is
                 replaceable. Is it?

                  

                 Regards,

                 Soumen

                  

                 On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid,
                 dk5ras via USRP-users <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
                 <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>> wrote:

                     Yep, those warnings really should be
                     considered. BTST :)

                      

                     Ralph.

                      

                     *From:*Marcus Müller
                     [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
                     <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>]
                     *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
                     *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'


                     *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port
                     broken - can this be fixed?

                      

                     Hey Ralph,

                     glueing in the connector at the old position
                     sounds like a solution for the "where to
                     actually connect the external power supply"
                     problem that I haven't tackled :)
                     Two words of warning:
                     1) ripping out might have damaged isolation,
                     so make sure you don't accidentally glue the
                     connector in in a way that shorts the
                     positive pins to ground; clearance between
                     the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
                     is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
                     2) when using a cable, make triple sure board
                     edges don't scratch of isolation. That
                     usually gives you the kind of short circuit
                     that -- in the best case -- kills your power
                     supply, but might fry your PCB if the
                     resulting current melts the cable, which then
                     flies around, and touches anything that
                     doesn't like the voltage (been there, done
                     that with PCB designs of my own).

                     Greetings,
                     Marcus

                     On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid,
                     dk5ras wrote:

                         I would glue the connector in place
                         again, and then connect both ground and +
                         with thin (!) wires (enameled copper
                         wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions where
                         they belong, not circumventing any
                         filtering. So this would ground, and be
                         F100 or the connection between L600 and
                         C601. Using thin wires will increase
                         chances that the board will survive a
                         second incident of this kind. I had to do
                         this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
                         connector. After having it all in place I
                         sealed the surroundings with
                         two-component epoxy glue.

                          

                         I can send photos later this day if
                         anyone is interested.

                          

                         Those SMD mounted external connectors are
                         really a PITA, I wish they all were good
                         old through hole mount, what is more
                         durable and usually easier to repair when
                         damaged.

                          

                         Ralph.

                          

                         *From:*USRP-users
                         [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com]
                         *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via USRP-users
                         *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
                         *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
                         <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>
                         *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power
                         Port broken - can this be fixed?

                          

                         Hi Soumen,

                         Disclaimer first: this is not an official
                         maintenance/repair instruction, but just
                         a description of what I see in your photo:
                         The fall broke off a large chunk of
                         ground plane, along with the pads that
                         connect the power supply ground. Whilst
                         this is ugly, I think it won't fatally
                         damage your B210; you'll just have to
                         find another suitable ground connection
                         to attach your supply's ground to. I'm
                         happy that the power connector is the
                         only thing that seems to have taken damage :)

                         Worse is that it cleanly pulled the
                         positive pads of your board; there's no
                         way you'll be able to re-solder the
                         connector to the same position.
                         Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics
                         [1], you'll notice that there is T600,
                         which you *could* directly feed with
                         external supply voltage, but I'd like to
                         point out that you'd lose all power
                         "sanitation" that happens between J601
                         and T600, which is a bad thing.

                         You could either duplicate the
                         protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
                         circuit consisting of F100, L601 and
                         C600-C602 and attach the output as
                         directly as possible to T600, or you
                         could locate the input side of F100 and
                         try to solder on a cable that you then
                         might connect to your power supply somehow.
                         The first option is more complicated, but
                         attaching power to a test point/pin
                         header hole might be much more reliable
                         than trying to solder something to a 0402
                         package, and reliability of power is
                         possibly the cause you'd want to use an
                         external power supply in the first place.
                         You could also try to do a compromise:
                         solder a lead to the F100-side of L601
                         (which is much much larger), and use your
                         own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
                         the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to
                         use an external power supply without a fuse.

                         Best regards, and I hope your board gets
                         well soon,
                         Marcus

                         [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/

                         On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee
                         via USRP-users wrote:

                             Hi,

                             The board fell off the table and the
                             power port has come off the board.
                             Can this be fixed in any way? I've
                             attached an image of the board to the
                             email.

                              

                             Thanks,

                             Soumen




                             _______________________________________________

                             USRP-users mailing list

                             USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>

                             http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com

                          

                      


                     _______________________________________________
                     USRP-users mailing list
                     USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
                     <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
                     http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com

                  

              
Hi Soumen, if connecting external doesn't power the device, your repair was not successful. How did you connect the connector to L601 / your fuse? How did you connect connector ground to device ground? Greetings, Marcus On 02/19/2015 01:00 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote: > Hi, > I've put the connector back together and Im not sure how to verify if > the entire thing worked or not. > > Is there any indication whether the board is running on bus power or > external power? When I connected the board on external power (without > connecting the USB interface), no indicator lights came up. Does that > mean that the soldering etc didnt work? I have the white USRP B210. > > Regards, > Soumen > > On Wed, Feb 18, 2015 at 7:43 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com > <mailto:soumen08@gmail.com>> wrote: > > Thanks a lot guys. I'm going to try putting this together right > away and see if it works. > Regards, > Soumen > > On 18-Feb-2015 5:31 pm, "Marcus Müller" <marcus.mueller@ettus.com > <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>> wrote: > > Hi Soumen, > > yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs > from the pad of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo. > > Greetings, > Marcus > > > On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote: >> Hi, >> >> In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my >> picture? I dont want to end up soldering on the wrong end if >> I can help it :) Ive attached it again for reference. Once Im >> sure on this one(and the choice of fuse), I'd just go ahead >> and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it. >> >> Would the status light glow a different color on external >> power? I mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there >> is a different color. I found a description for the green >> version of the board though and it mentioned that it glows >> green on external power. Does that hold for my(white) board >> as well? >> >> Regards, >> Soumen >> >> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee >> <soumen08@gmail.com <mailto:soumen08@gmail.com>> wrote: >> >> Hi, >> Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. >> Can I use another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the >> fast action matter a whole lot? Perhaps I could use a >> lower rating, say 2A and get away with it? >> Regards, >> Soumen >> >> On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" >> <ralph@schmid.xxx> <mailto:ralph@schmid.xxx> wrote: >> >> A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong >> power supply with excessive voltage or reversed >> polarity. >> >> >> >> Ralph. >> >> >> >> *From:*Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com >> <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>] >> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM >> *To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras >> *Cc:* usrp-users >> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - >> can this be fixed? >> >> >> >> Hi Soumen, >> >> the idea that you could glue back the connector in >> place was really just about the connector having a >> place to sit. The positive contacts can't be saved. >> >> I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), >> but the wire shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the >> idea is to lead the current from the connetor through >> a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do >> that, but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time >> soldering any cable to it, no matter how thin, thus >> my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 >> directly. >> >> Regarding why F100 is there: >> a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect >> such inputs by principle alone :) >> b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would >> usually be related to a rather drastic board failure >> somewhere else, it still protects the board -- for >> example, anything that falls onto the board might >> shorten supply voltage to ground, which would destroy >> the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. Also, the power >> converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors >> are designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the >> overload situation doesn't last too long or doesn't >> exceed a certain voltage. >> >> Greetings, >> Marcus >> >> On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote: >> >> Hi, >> >> >> >> The ground pad is actually available on the >> board. It is the positive pads that have been >> ripped off. >> >> >> >> I'm a little unsure of what you guys are >> suggesting with respect to glueing the power jack >> back onto the board. If I did that, I could >> easily re-establish the connection with the >> ground pad but Im not sure about the positive >> pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of >> the power jack, and solder it before the F100? >> The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can be >> done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are >> suggesting something else, I could use a little >> further clarification. >> >> >> >> Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at >> all. If the fuse were to get blown, wouldnt it >> mean that the board was, for all intents and >> purposes fried? Unless of course if the fuse is >> replaceable. Is it? >> >> >> >> Regards, >> >> Soumen >> >> >> >> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, >> dk5ras via USRP-users <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com >> <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>> wrote: >> >> Yep, those warnings really should be >> considered. BTST :) >> >> >> >> Ralph. >> >> >> >> *From:*Marcus Müller >> [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com >> <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>] >> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM >> *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users' >> >> >> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port >> broken - can this be fixed? >> >> >> >> Hey Ralph, >> >> glueing in the connector at the old position >> sounds like a solution for the "where to >> actually connect the external power supply" >> problem that I haven't tackled :) >> Two words of warning: >> 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, >> so make sure you don't accidentally glue the >> connector in in a way that shorts the >> positive pins to ground; clearance between >> the supply voltage pads and the ground plane >> is rather small, both carrying low voltage. >> 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board >> edges don't scratch of isolation. That >> usually gives you the kind of short circuit >> that -- in the best case -- kills your power >> supply, but might fry your PCB if the >> resulting current melts the cable, which then >> flies around, and touches anything that >> doesn't like the voltage (been there, done >> that with PCB designs of my own). >> >> Greetings, >> Marcus >> >> On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, >> dk5ras wrote: >> >> I would glue the connector in place >> again, and then connect both ground and + >> with thin (!) wires (enameled copper >> wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions where >> they belong, not circumventing any >> filtering. So this would ground, and be >> F100 or the connection between L600 and >> C601. Using thin wires will increase >> chances that the board will survive a >> second incident of this kind. I had to do >> this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 >> connector. After having it all in place I >> sealed the surroundings with >> two-component epoxy glue. >> >> >> >> I can send photos later this day if >> anyone is interested. >> >> >> >> Those SMD mounted external connectors are >> really a PITA, I wish they all were good >> old through hole mount, what is more >> durable and usually easier to repair when >> damaged. >> >> >> >> Ralph. >> >> >> >> *From:*USRP-users >> [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] >> *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via USRP-users >> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM >> *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com >> <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> >> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power >> Port broken - can this be fixed? >> >> >> >> Hi Soumen, >> >> Disclaimer first: this is not an official >> maintenance/repair instruction, but just >> a description of what I see in your photo: >> The fall broke off a large chunk of >> ground plane, along with the pads that >> connect the power supply ground. Whilst >> this is ugly, I think it won't fatally >> damage your B210; you'll just have to >> find another suitable ground connection >> to attach your supply's ground to. I'm >> happy that the power connector is the >> only thing that seems to have taken damage :) >> >> Worse is that it cleanly pulled the >> positive pads of your board; there's no >> way you'll be able to re-solder the >> connector to the same position. >> Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics >> [1], you'll notice that there is T600, >> which you *could* directly feed with >> external supply voltage, but I'd like to >> point out that you'd lose all power >> "sanitation" that happens between J601 >> and T600, which is a bad thing. >> >> You could either duplicate the >> protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering >> circuit consisting of F100, L601 and >> C600-C602 and attach the output as >> directly as possible to T600, or you >> could locate the input side of F100 and >> try to solder on a cable that you then >> might connect to your power supply somehow. >> The first option is more complicated, but >> attaching power to a test point/pin >> header hole might be much more reliable >> than trying to solder something to a 0402 >> package, and reliability of power is >> possibly the cause you'd want to use an >> external power supply in the first place. >> You could also try to do a compromise: >> solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 >> (which is much much larger), and use your >> own 4A fast response fuse. I really like >> the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to >> use an external power supply without a fuse. >> >> Best regards, and I hope your board gets >> well soon, >> Marcus >> >> [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/ >> >> On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee >> via USRP-users wrote: >> >> Hi, >> >> The board fell off the table and the >> power port has come off the board. >> Can this be fixed in any way? I've >> attached an image of the board to the >> email. >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> Soumen >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> USRP-users mailing list >> >> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com> >> >> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> USRP-users mailing list >> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com >> <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com> >> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com >> >> >> >> >> >> > >