SB
Soumen Banerjee
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 10:18 AM
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can
this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email.
Thanks,
Soumen
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can
this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email.
Thanks,
Soumen
MM
Marcus Müller
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 10:54 AM
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair
instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads
that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it
won't fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another
suitable ground connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy
that the power connector is the only thing that seems to have taken
damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there
is T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage,
but I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that
happens between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the
cause you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You
could also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of
L601 (which is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response
fuse. I really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an
external power supply without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair
instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads
that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it
won't fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another
suitable ground connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy
that the power connector is the only thing that seems to have taken
damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there
is T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage,
but I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that
happens between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the
cause you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You
could also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of
L601 (which is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response
fuse. I really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an
external power supply without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
> Hi,
> The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the
> board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the
> board to the email.
>
> Thanks,
> Soumen
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> USRP-users mailing list
> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
SB
Soumen Banerjee
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 12:33 PM
Hi Marcus,
Thanks a lot for helping me out. I looked at the schematics, and I guess
the solution involving using my own fuse and connecting it to the F-100
side of L601 sounds the best since I wont lose any functionality. I have
attached an image with one of the sides of the L601 circled in red. Can you
confirm that I need to get the lead out of this end? Is it safe to use a
micro-tip soldering iron on this component? Are there any special
considerations I need to take care of?
Thanks,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 4:24 PM, Marcus Müller usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
wrote:
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
email.
Thanks,
Soumen
USRP-users mailing listUSRP-users@lists.ettus.comhttp://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
Hi Marcus,
Thanks a lot for helping me out. I looked at the schematics, and I guess
the solution involving using my own fuse and connecting it to the F-100
side of L601 sounds the best since I wont lose any functionality. I have
attached an image with one of the sides of the L601 circled in red. Can you
confirm that I need to get the lead out of this end? Is it safe to use a
micro-tip soldering iron on this component? Are there any special
considerations I need to take care of?
Thanks,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 4:24 PM, Marcus Müller <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>
wrote:
> Hi Soumen,
>
> Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
> but just a description of what I see in your photo:
> The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
> connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
> fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
> connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
> connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
>
> Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
> no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
> Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
> T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
> like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
> between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
>
> You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
> circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
> directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
> and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
> supply somehow.
> The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
> point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
> something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
> you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
> also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
> is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
> the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
> without a fuse.
>
> Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
> Marcus
>
> [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
>
>
> On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
>
> Hi,
> The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
> Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
> email.
>
> Thanks,
> Soumen
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> USRP-users mailing listUSRP-users@lists.ettus.comhttp://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> USRP-users mailing list
> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>
>
RA
Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 1:05 PM
I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground and
- with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions
where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would ground,
and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin wires will
increase chances that the board will survive a second incident of this kind.
I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having
it all in place I sealed the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.
I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier to
repair when damaged.
Ralph.
From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] On Behalf Of
Marcus Müller via USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no
way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and
try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply
somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can
this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email.
Thanks,
Soumen
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground and
+ with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions
where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would ground,
and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin wires will
increase chances that the board will survive a second incident of this kind.
I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having
it all in place I sealed the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.
I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier to
repair when damaged.
Ralph.
From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] On Behalf Of
Marcus Müller via USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no
way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and
try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply
somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can
this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email.
Thanks,
Soumen
_______________________________________________
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
RA
Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 1:13 PM
Looks like the right position. Take normal ESD precautions, and use a not
too small tip to get enough heat in short time into the pad.
The biggest mistake people usually make is using a needle thin tip with way
to low temperature. Be powerful, be hot, be fast, then it will work out.
Ralph.
From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] On Behalf Of
Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 1:33 PM
To: Marcus Müller
Cc: USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Marcus,
Thanks a lot for helping me out. I looked at the schematics, and I guess the
solution involving using my own fuse and connecting it to the F-100 side of
L601 sounds the best since I wont lose any functionality. I have attached an
image with one of the sides of the L601 circled in red. Can you confirm that
I need to get the lead out of this end? Is it safe to use a micro-tip
soldering iron on this component? Are there any special considerations I
need to take care of?
Thanks,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 4:24 PM, Marcus Müller <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com > wrote:
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no
way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and
try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply
somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can
this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email.
Thanks,
Soumen
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
Looks like the right position. Take normal ESD precautions, and use a not
too small tip to get enough heat in short time into the pad.
The biggest mistake people usually make is using a needle thin tip with way
to low temperature. Be powerful, be hot, be fast, then it will work out.
Ralph.
From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] On Behalf Of
Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 1:33 PM
To: Marcus Müller
Cc: USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Marcus,
Thanks a lot for helping me out. I looked at the schematics, and I guess the
solution involving using my own fuse and connecting it to the F-100 side of
L601 sounds the best since I wont lose any functionality. I have attached an
image with one of the sides of the L601 circled in red. Can you confirm that
I need to get the lead out of this end? Is it safe to use a micro-tip
soldering iron on this component? Are there any special considerations I
need to take care of?
Thanks,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 4:24 PM, Marcus Müller <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
<mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> > wrote:
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no
way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and
try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply
somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can
this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email.
Thanks,
Soumen
_______________________________________________
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
_______________________________________________
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
SM
Sylvain Munaut
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 1:16 PM
I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground and
- with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions
where they belong, not circumventing any filtering.
This is the power (!) connection ... you can't use 0.1mm diameter wire
for that ... On the contrary you probably want the thickest wire you
can fit in there.
Cheers,
Sylvain
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 2:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via
USRP-users <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:
> I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground and
> + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions
> where they belong, not circumventing any filtering.
This is the power (!) connection ... you can't use 0.1mm diameter wire
for that ... On the contrary you probably want the thickest wire you
can fit in there.
Cheers,
Sylvain
MM
Marcus Müller
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 1:19 PM
Hey Ralph,
glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
haven't tackled :)
Two words of warning:
- ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive
pins to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground
plane is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
- when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in
the best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
designs of my own).
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both
ground and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so)
to the positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering.
So this would ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and
C601. Using thin wires will increase chances that the board will
survive a second incident of this kind. I had to do this with the
Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having it all in place I
sealed the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.
I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they
all were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually
easier to repair when damaged.
Ralph.
*From:*USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On
Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair
instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads
that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it
won't fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another
suitable ground connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm
happy that the power connector is the only thing that seems to have
taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board;
there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same
position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that
there is T600, which you could directly feed with external supply
voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power
"sanitation" that happens between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output
as directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of
F100 and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your
power supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to
solder something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is
possibly the cause you'd want to use an external power supply in the
first place. You could also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to
the F100-side of L601 (which is much much larger), and use your own 4A
fast response fuse. I really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you
not to use an external power supply without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the
board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the
board to the email.
Thanks,
Soumen
_______________________________________________
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
Hey Ralph,
glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
haven't tackled :)
Two words of warning:
1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive
pins to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground
plane is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in
the best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
designs of my own).
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
>
> I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both
> ground and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so)
> to the positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering.
> So this would ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and
> C601. Using thin wires will increase chances that the board will
> survive a second incident of this kind. I had to do this with the
> Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having it all in place I
> sealed the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.
>
>
>
> I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
>
>
>
> Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they
> all were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually
> easier to repair when damaged.
>
>
>
> Ralph.
>
>
>
> *From:*USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via USRP-users
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
> *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>
>
>
> Hi Soumen,
>
> Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair
> instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo:
> The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads
> that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it
> won't fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another
> suitable ground connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm
> happy that the power connector is the only thing that seems to have
> taken damage :)
>
> Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board;
> there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same
> position.
> Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that
> there is T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply
> voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power
> "sanitation" that happens between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
>
> You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
> circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output
> as directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of
> F100 and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your
> power supply somehow.
> The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
> point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to
> solder something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is
> possibly the cause you'd want to use an external power supply in the
> first place. You could also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to
> the F100-side of L601 (which is much much larger), and use your own 4A
> fast response fuse. I really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you
> not to use an external power supply without a fuse.
>
> Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
> Marcus
>
> [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
>
> On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the
> board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the
> board to the email.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Soumen
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> USRP-users mailing list
>
> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
>
> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>
>
>
RA
Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 1:29 PM
Sure you can, this is more than enough, the B210 is not very power hungry, and the distance will be short. The power traces in the PCB and the wire in the coils will not be remarkably thicker :)
Ralph.
-----Original Message-----
From: Sylvain Munaut [mailto:246tnt@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:16 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Cc: Marcus Müller; usrp-users
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 2:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users
usrp-users@lists.ettus.com wrote:
I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both
ground and
- with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
- positions
where they belong, not circumventing any filtering.
This is the power (!) connection ... you can't use 0.1mm diameter wire for
that ... On the contrary you probably want the thickest wire you can fit in
there.
Cheers,
Sylvain
Sure you can, this is more than enough, the B210 is not very power hungry, and the distance will be short. The power traces in the PCB and the wire in the coils will not be remarkably thicker :)
Ralph.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sylvain Munaut [mailto:246tnt@gmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:16 PM
> To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
> Cc: Marcus Müller; usrp-users
> Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>
> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 2:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users
> <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:
> > I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both
> > ground and
> > + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
> > + positions
> > where they belong, not circumventing any filtering.
>
> This is the power (!) connection ... you can't use 0.1mm diameter wire for
> that ... On the contrary you probably want the thickest wire you can fit in
> there.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Sylvain
RA
Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 1:30 PM
Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
Ralph.
From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hey Ralph,
glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for the
"where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I haven't
tackled :)
Two words of warning:
- ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins to
ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane is
rather small, both carrying low voltage.
- when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
designs of my own).
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground and
- with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions
where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would ground,
and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin wires will
increase chances that the board will survive a second incident of this kind.
I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having
it all in place I sealed the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.
I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier to
repair when damaged.
Ralph.
From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] On Behalf Of
Marcus Müller via USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no
way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and
try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply
somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can
this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email.
Thanks,
Soumen
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
Ralph.
From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hey Ralph,
glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for the
"where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I haven't
tackled :)
Two words of warning:
1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins to
ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane is
rather small, both carrying low voltage.
2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
designs of my own).
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground and
+ with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions
where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would ground,
and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin wires will
increase chances that the board will survive a second incident of this kind.
I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having
it all in place I sealed the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.
I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier to
repair when damaged.
Ralph.
From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] On Behalf Of
Marcus Müller via USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no
way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and
try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply
somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can
this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email.
Thanks,
Soumen
_______________________________________________
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
SM
Sylvain Munaut
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 2:16 PM
Sure you can, this is more than enough, the B210 is not very power hungry, and the distance will be short. The power traces in the PCB and the wire in the coils will not be remarkably thicker :)
The B210 can consume more than what USB 3.0 bus power can provide,
hence the recommendation to use an external supply. That means more
than 1A of current.
Look at http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm and for chassis
wiring (which is already the most forgiving spec), 0.1mm leads to a
max of ~ 120 mA so you're nearly off by a factor of 10 ...
The fuse is rated to 4A, the inductor is rated for 3A. The power
traces going to the fuses (which are the thinnest of that power path
AFAICT), are 30 mils wide on a 35u copper board, that's more than 3
times the cross section of 0.1 mm dia wire and 5 times its surface
area to dissipate the heat ...
I'd go for AWG 29 as a minimum size.
Cheers,
Sylvain
> Sure you can, this is more than enough, the B210 is not very power hungry, and the distance will be short. The power traces in the PCB and the wire in the coils will not be remarkably thicker :)
The B210 can consume more than what USB 3.0 bus power can provide,
hence the recommendation to use an external supply. That means more
than 1A of current.
Look at http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm and for chassis
wiring (which is already the most forgiving spec), 0.1mm leads to a
max of ~ 120 mA so you're nearly off by a factor of 10 ...
The fuse is rated to 4A, the inductor is rated for 3A. The power
traces going to the fuses (which are the thinnest of that power path
AFAICT), are 30 mils wide on a 35u copper board, that's more than 3
times the cross section of 0.1 mm dia wire and 5 times its surface
area to dissipate the heat ...
I'd go for AWG 29 as a minimum size.
Cheers,
Sylvain
SB
Soumen Banerjee
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 2:16 PM
Hi,
The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive pads
that have been ripped off.
I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to glueing
the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can
be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something
else, I could use a little further clarification.
Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to get
blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users <
usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:
Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
Ralph.
From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hey Ralph,
glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
haven't tackled :)
Two words of warning:
- ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins
to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
- when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
designs of my own).
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground
and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would
ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with
two-component epoxy glue.
I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier
to repair when damaged.
Ralph.
From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com
usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via
USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
email.
Thanks,
Soumen
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
Hi,
The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive pads
that have been ripped off.
I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to glueing
the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can
be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something
else, I could use a little further clarification.
Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to get
blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users <
usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:
> Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
>
>
>
> Ralph.
>
>
>
> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
> *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
>
> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>
>
>
> Hey Ralph,
>
> glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
> the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
> haven't tackled :)
> Two words of warning:
> 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
> accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins
> to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
> is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
> 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
> isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
> best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
> resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
> anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
> designs of my own).
>
> Greetings,
> Marcus
>
> On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
>
> I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground
> and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
> positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would
> ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
> wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
> of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
> connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with
> two-component epoxy glue.
>
>
>
> I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
>
>
>
> Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
> were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier
> to repair when damaged.
>
>
>
> Ralph.
>
>
>
> *From:* USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com
> <usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com>] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via
> USRP-users
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
> *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>
>
>
> Hi Soumen,
>
> Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
> but just a description of what I see in your photo:
> The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
> connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
> fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
> connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
> connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
>
> Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
> no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
> Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
> T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
> like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
> between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
>
> You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
> circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
> directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
> and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
> supply somehow.
> The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
> point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
> something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
> you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
> also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
> is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
> the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
> without a fuse.
>
> Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
> Marcus
>
> [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
>
> On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
> Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
> email.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Soumen
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> USRP-users mailing list
>
> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
>
> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> USRP-users mailing list
> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>
>
RA
Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 2:45 PM
Sure, one can do it the official way, but the thin wire will last the consumed power without any issues. A thicker wire is technically better, but it will also be more risky in case of another incident. Also the 0.1 mm are not meant literally, I just recommend a wire thin enough for being ripped off the solder joints without causing too much additional damage. So just use a diameter of maybe 0.25 mm if you feel better with it.
I fix stuff all day (in fact this belongs to my job), and I am through all those discussions more than once :)
Ralph.
-----Original Message-----
From: Sylvain Munaut [mailto:246tnt@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:16 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Cc: usrp-users
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Sure you can, this is more than enough, the B210 is not very power
hungry, and the distance will be short. The power traces in the PCB
and the wire in the coils will not be remarkably thicker :)
The B210 can consume more than what USB 3.0 bus power can provide,
hence the recommendation to use an external supply. That means more
than 1A of current.
Look at http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm and for chassis wiring
(which is already the most forgiving spec), 0.1mm leads to a max of ~ 120 mA
so you're nearly off by a factor of 10 ...
The fuse is rated to 4A, the inductor is rated for 3A. The power traces going
to the fuses (which are the thinnest of that power path AFAICT), are 30 mils
wide on a 35u copper board, that's more than 3 times the cross section of 0.1
mm dia wire and 5 times its surface area to dissipate the heat ...
I'd go for AWG 29 as a minimum size.
Cheers,
Sylvain
Sure, one can do it the official way, but the thin wire will last the consumed power without any issues. A thicker wire is technically better, but it will also be more risky in case of another incident. Also the 0.1 mm are not meant literally, I just recommend a wire thin enough for being ripped off the solder joints without causing too much additional damage. So just use a diameter of maybe 0.25 mm if you feel better with it.
I fix stuff all day (in fact this belongs to my job), and I am through all those discussions more than once :)
Ralph.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sylvain Munaut [mailto:246tnt@gmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:16 PM
> To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
> Cc: usrp-users
> Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>
> > Sure you can, this is more than enough, the B210 is not very power
> > hungry, and the distance will be short. The power traces in the PCB
> > and the wire in the coils will not be remarkably thicker :)
>
> The B210 can consume more than what USB 3.0 bus power can provide,
> hence the recommendation to use an external supply. That means more
> than 1A of current.
>
> Look at http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm and for chassis wiring
> (which is already the most forgiving spec), 0.1mm leads to a max of ~ 120 mA
> so you're nearly off by a factor of 10 ...
>
> The fuse is rated to 4A, the inductor is rated for 3A. The power traces going
> to the fuses (which are the thinnest of that power path AFAICT), are 30 mils
> wide on a 35u copper board, that's more than 3 times the cross section of 0.1
> mm dia wire and 5 times its surface area to dissipate the heat ...
>
> I'd go for AWG 29 as a minimum size.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Sylvain
MM
Marcus Müller
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 2:48 PM
Hi Soumen,
the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just
about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't
be saved.
I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire
shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from
the connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do
that, but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable
to it, no matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and
solder to L601 directly.
Regarding why F100 is there:
a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
principle alone :)
b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board
-- for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply
voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the
fuse. Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors
are designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation
doesn't last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage.
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
Hi,
The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive
pads that have been ripped off.
I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to
glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could
easily re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure
about the positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of
the power jack, and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small,
Im not sure that can be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you
are suggesting something else, I could use a little further clarification.
Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to
get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and
purposes fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via
USRP-users <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:
Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
Ralph.
*From:*Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
<mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>]
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
*To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
*Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be
fixed?
Hey Ralph,
glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a
solution for the "where to actually connect the external power
supply" problem that I haven't tackled :)
Two words of warning:
1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you
don't accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the
positive pins to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads
and the ground plane is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch
of isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit
that -- in the best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry
your PCB if the resulting current melts the cable, which then
flies around, and touches anything that doesn't like the voltage
(been there, done that with PCB designs of my own).
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect
both ground and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire,
0.1mm or so) to the positions where they belong, not
circumventing any filtering. So this would ground, and be F100
or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin wires will
increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF
MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having it all in place I sealed
the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.
I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I
wish they all were good old through hole mount, what is more
durable and usually easier to repair when damaged.
Ralph.
*From:*USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com]
*On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via USRP-users
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
*To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
<mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>
*Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this
be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair
instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with
the pads that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is
ugly, I think it won't fatally damage your B210; you'll just
have to find another suitable ground connection to attach your
supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power connector is the
only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your
board; there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the
connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice
that there is T600, which you *could* directly feed with
external supply voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd
lose all power "sanitation" that happens between J601 and
T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor
buffering circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and
attach the output as directly as possible to T600, or you
could locate the input side of F100 and try to solder on a
cable that you then might connect to your power supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a
test point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than
trying to solder something to a 0402 package, and reliability
of power is possibly the cause you'd want to use an external
power supply in the first place. You could also try to do a
compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which is
much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I
really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an
external power supply without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come
off the board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached
an image of the board to the email.
Thanks,
Soumen
_______________________________________________
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
_______________________________________________
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
Hi Soumen,
the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just
about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't
be saved.
I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire
shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from
the connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do
that, but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable
to it, no matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and
solder to L601 directly.
Regarding why F100 is there:
a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
principle alone :)
b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board
-- for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply
voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the
fuse. Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors
are designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation
doesn't last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage.
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
> Hi,
>
> The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive
> pads that have been ripped off.
>
> I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to
> glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could
> easily re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure
> about the positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of
> the power jack, and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small,
> Im not sure that can be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you
> are suggesting something else, I could use a little further clarification.
>
> Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to
> get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and
> purposes fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?
>
> Regards,
> Soumen
>
> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via
> USRP-users <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
> <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>> wrote:
>
> Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
>
>
>
> Ralph.
>
>
>
> *From:*Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
> <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
> *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
>
>
> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be
> fixed?
>
>
>
> Hey Ralph,
>
> glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a
> solution for the "where to actually connect the external power
> supply" problem that I haven't tackled :)
> Two words of warning:
> 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you
> don't accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the
> positive pins to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads
> and the ground plane is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
> 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch
> of isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit
> that -- in the best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry
> your PCB if the resulting current melts the cable, which then
> flies around, and touches anything that doesn't like the voltage
> (been there, done that with PCB designs of my own).
>
> Greetings,
> Marcus
>
> On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
>
> I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect
> both ground and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire,
> 0.1mm or so) to the positions where they belong, not
> circumventing any filtering. So this would ground, and be F100
> or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin wires will
> increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
> of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF
> MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having it all in place I sealed
> the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.
>
>
>
> I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
>
>
>
> Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I
> wish they all were good old through hole mount, what is more
> durable and usually easier to repair when damaged.
>
>
>
> Ralph.
>
>
>
> *From:*USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com]
> *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via USRP-users
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
> *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
> <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this
> be fixed?
>
>
>
> Hi Soumen,
>
> Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair
> instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo:
> The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with
> the pads that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is
> ugly, I think it won't fatally damage your B210; you'll just
> have to find another suitable ground connection to attach your
> supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power connector is the
> only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
>
> Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your
> board; there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the
> connector to the same position.
> Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice
> that there is T600, which you *could* directly feed with
> external supply voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd
> lose all power "sanitation" that happens between J601 and
> T600, which is a bad thing.
>
> You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor
> buffering circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and
> attach the output as directly as possible to T600, or you
> could locate the input side of F100 and try to solder on a
> cable that you then might connect to your power supply somehow.
> The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a
> test point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than
> trying to solder something to a 0402 package, and reliability
> of power is possibly the cause you'd want to use an external
> power supply in the first place. You could also try to do a
> compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which is
> much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I
> really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an
> external power supply without a fuse.
>
> Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
> Marcus
>
> [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
>
> On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> The board fell off the table and the power port has come
> off the board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached
> an image of the board to the email.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Soumen
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> USRP-users mailing list
>
> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
>
> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> USRP-users mailing list
> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>
>
RA
Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 2:58 PM
A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply with
excessive voltage or reversed polarity.
Ralph.
From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
To: Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Cc: usrp-users
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just
about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be
saved.
I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire shouldn't
be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the connetor
through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that, but it's so
tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no matter how
thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 directly.
Regarding why F100 is there:
a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
principle alone :)
b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board --
for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply voltage
to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. Also, the
power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are designed with
quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't last too long or
doesn't exceed a certain voltage.
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
Hi,
The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive pads
that have been ripped off.
I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to glueing
the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can be
done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something else,
I could use a little further clarification.
Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to get
blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users
<usrp-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com > wrote:
Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
Ralph.
From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com ]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hey Ralph,
glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for the
"where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I haven't
tackled :)
Two words of warning:
- ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins to
ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane is
rather small, both carrying low voltage.
- when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
designs of my own).
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground and
- with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions
where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would ground,
and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin wires will
increase chances that the board will survive a second incident of this kind.
I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having
it all in place I sealed the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.
I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier to
repair when damaged.
Ralph.
From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] On Behalf Of
Marcus Müller via USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no
way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and
try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply
somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can
this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email.
Thanks,
Soumen
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply with
excessive voltage or reversed polarity.
Ralph.
From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
To: Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Cc: usrp-users
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just
about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be
saved.
I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire shouldn't
be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the connetor
through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that, but it's so
tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no matter how
thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 directly.
Regarding why F100 is there:
a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
principle alone :)
b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board --
for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply voltage
to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. Also, the
power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are designed with
quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't last too long or
doesn't exceed a certain voltage.
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
Hi,
The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive pads
that have been ripped off.
I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to glueing
the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can be
done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something else,
I could use a little further clarification.
Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to get
blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users
<usrp-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> > wrote:
Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
Ralph.
From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
<mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com> ]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hey Ralph,
glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for the
"where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I haven't
tackled :)
Two words of warning:
1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins to
ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane is
rather small, both carrying low voltage.
2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
designs of my own).
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground and
+ with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions
where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would ground,
and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin wires will
increase chances that the board will survive a second incident of this kind.
I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 connector. After having
it all in place I sealed the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.
I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier to
repair when damaged.
Ralph.
From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] On Behalf Of
Marcus Müller via USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's no
way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 and
try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power supply
somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board. Can
this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the email.
Thanks,
Soumen
_______________________________________________
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
_______________________________________________
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
SB
Soumen Banerjee
Tue, Feb 17, 2015 3:25 PM
Hi,
Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use another
fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole lot?
Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it?
Regards,
Soumen
On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" ralph@schmid.xxx wrote:
A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply with
excessive voltage or reversed polarity.
Ralph.
From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
To: Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Cc: usrp-users
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just
about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be
saved.
I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire shouldn't
be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the connetor
through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that, but it's so
tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no matter how
thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 directly.
Regarding why F100 is there:
a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
principle alone :)
b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board --
for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply
voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse.
Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are
designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't
last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage.
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
Hi,
The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive pads
that have been ripped off.
I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to
glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can
be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something
else, I could use a little further clarification.
Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to get
blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users <
usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:
Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
Ralph.
From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hey Ralph,
glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
haven't tackled :)
Two words of warning:
- ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins
to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
- when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
designs of my own).
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground
and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would
ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with
two-component epoxy glue.
I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier
to repair when damaged.
Ralph.
From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com
usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via
USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
email.
Thanks,
Soumen
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
Hi,
Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use another
fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole lot?
Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it?
Regards,
Soumen
On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" <ralph@schmid.xxx> wrote:
> A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply with
> excessive voltage or reversed polarity.
>
>
>
> Ralph.
>
>
>
> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
> *To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
> *Cc:* usrp-users
> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>
>
>
> Hi Soumen,
>
> the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just
> about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be
> saved.
>
> I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire shouldn't
> be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the connetor
> through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that, but it's so
> tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no matter how
> thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 directly.
>
> Regarding why F100 is there:
> a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
> principle alone :)
> b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
> rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board --
> for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply
> voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse.
> Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are
> designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't
> last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage.
>
> Greetings,
> Marcus
>
> On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive pads
> that have been ripped off.
>
>
>
> I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to
> glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
> re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
> positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
> and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can
> be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something
> else, I could use a little further clarification.
>
>
>
> Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to get
> blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
> fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Soumen
>
>
>
> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users <
> usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:
>
> Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
>
>
>
> Ralph.
>
>
>
> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
> *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
>
>
> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>
>
>
> Hey Ralph,
>
> glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
> the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
> haven't tackled :)
> Two words of warning:
> 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
> accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins
> to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
> is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
> 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
> isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
> best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
> resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
> anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
> designs of my own).
>
> Greetings,
> Marcus
>
> On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
>
> I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground
> and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
> positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would
> ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
> wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
> of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
> connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with
> two-component epoxy glue.
>
>
>
> I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
>
>
>
> Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
> were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier
> to repair when damaged.
>
>
>
> Ralph.
>
>
>
> *From:* USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com
> <usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com>] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via
> USRP-users
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
> *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>
>
>
> Hi Soumen,
>
> Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
> but just a description of what I see in your photo:
> The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads that
> connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
> fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
> connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
> connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
>
> Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
> no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
> Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there is
> T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but I'd
> like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
> between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
>
> You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
> circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
> directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
> and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
> supply somehow.
> The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
> point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
> something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
> you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
> also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
> is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
> the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
> without a fuse.
>
> Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
> Marcus
>
> [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
>
> On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
> Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
> email.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Soumen
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> USRP-users mailing list
>
> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
>
> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> USRP-users mailing list
> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>
>
>
>
>
SB
Soumen Banerjee
Wed, Feb 18, 2015 3:47 AM
Hi,
In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont want
to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive attached it
again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the choice of fuse), I'd
just go ahead and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it.
Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I mostly
use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different color. I found
a description for the green version of the board though and it mentioned
that it glows green on external power. Does that hold for my(white) board
as well?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee soumen08@gmail.com wrote:
Hi,
Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use
another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole
lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it?
Regards,
Soumen
On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" ralph@schmid.xxx
wrote:
A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply with
excessive voltage or reversed polarity.
Ralph.
From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
To: Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Cc: usrp-users
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just
about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be
saved.
I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire
shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the
connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that,
but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no
matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601
directly.
Regarding why F100 is there:
a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
principle alone :)
b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board --
for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply
voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse.
Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are
designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't
last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage.
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
Hi,
The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive
pads that have been ripped off.
I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to
glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can
be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something
else, I could use a little further clarification.
Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to
get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users <
usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:
Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
Ralph.
From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hey Ralph,
glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
haven't tackled :)
Two words of warning:
- ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins
to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
- when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
designs of my own).
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground
and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would
ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with
two-component epoxy glue.
I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier
to repair when damaged.
Ralph.
From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com
usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via
USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads
that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there
is T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but
I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
email.
Thanks,
Soumen
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
Hi,
In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont want
to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive attached it
again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the choice of fuse), I'd
just go ahead and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it.
Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I mostly
use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different color. I found
a description for the green version of the board though and it mentioned
that it glows green on external power. Does that hold for my(white) board
as well?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi,
> Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use
> another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole
> lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it?
> Regards,
> Soumen
> On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" <ralph@schmid.xxx>
> wrote:
>
>> A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply with
>> excessive voltage or reversed polarity.
>>
>>
>>
>> Ralph.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
>> *To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
>> *Cc:* usrp-users
>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Soumen,
>>
>> the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just
>> about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be
>> saved.
>>
>> I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire
>> shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the
>> connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that,
>> but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no
>> matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601
>> directly.
>>
>> Regarding why F100 is there:
>> a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
>> principle alone :)
>> b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
>> rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board --
>> for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply
>> voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse.
>> Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are
>> designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't
>> last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage.
>>
>> Greetings,
>> Marcus
>>
>> On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>>
>>
>> The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive
>> pads that have been ripped off.
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to
>> glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
>> re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
>> positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
>> and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can
>> be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something
>> else, I could use a little further clarification.
>>
>>
>>
>> Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to
>> get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
>> fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Soumen
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users <
>> usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:
>>
>> Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
>>
>>
>>
>> Ralph.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
>> *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
>>
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>>
>>
>>
>> Hey Ralph,
>>
>> glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
>> the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
>> haven't tackled :)
>> Two words of warning:
>> 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
>> accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins
>> to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
>> is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
>> 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
>> isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
>> best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
>> resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
>> anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
>> designs of my own).
>>
>> Greetings,
>> Marcus
>>
>> On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
>>
>> I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground
>> and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
>> positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would
>> ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
>> wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
>> of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
>> connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with
>> two-component epoxy glue.
>>
>>
>>
>> I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
>>
>>
>>
>> Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
>> were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier
>> to repair when damaged.
>>
>>
>>
>> Ralph.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com
>> <usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com>] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via
>> USRP-users
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
>> *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Soumen,
>>
>> Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair instruction,
>> but just a description of what I see in your photo:
>> The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads
>> that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
>> fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
>> connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
>> connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
>>
>> Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
>> no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
>> Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there
>> is T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but
>> I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
>> between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
>>
>> You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
>> circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
>> directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
>> and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
>> supply somehow.
>> The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
>> point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
>> something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
>> you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
>> also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
>> is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
>> the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
>> without a fuse.
>>
>> Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
>> Marcus
>>
>> [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
>>
>> On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
>> Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
>> email.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Soumen
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> USRP-users mailing list
>>
>> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
>>
>> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> USRP-users mailing list
>> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
>> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
MM
Marcus Müller
Wed, Feb 18, 2015 12:01 PM
Hi Soumen,
yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs from the pad
of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo.
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
Hi,
In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont
want to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive
attached it again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the
choice of fuse), I'd just go ahead and try to make this work by using
my own fuse with it.
Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I
mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different
color. I found a description for the green version of the board though
and it mentioned that it glows green on external power. Does that hold
for my(white) board as well?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com
mailto:soumen08@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi,
Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I
use another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action
matter a whole lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and
get away with it?
Regards,
Soumen
On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras"
<ralph@schmid.xxx> wrote:
A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power
supply with excessive voltage or reversed polarity.
Ralph.
*From:*Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
<mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>]
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
*To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
*Cc:* usrp-users
*Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this
be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was
really just about the connector having a place to sit. The
positive contacts can't be saved.
I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the
wire shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the
current from the connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is
the right fuse to do that, but it's so tiny that you'll have a
hard time soldering any cable to it, no matter how thin, thus
my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 directly.
Regarding why F100 is there:
a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such
inputs by principle alone :)
b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be
related to a rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it
still protects the board -- for example, anything that falls
onto the board might shorten supply voltage to ground, which
would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. Also, the
power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are
designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload
situation doesn't last too long or doesn't exceed a certain
voltage.
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
Hi,
The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is
the positive pads that have been ripped off.
I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with
respect to glueing the power jack back onto the board. If
I did that, I could easily re-establish the connection
with the ground pad but Im not sure about the positive
pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the
power jack, and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so
small, Im not sure that can be done with a micro-tip
soldering iron. If you are suggesting something else, I
could use a little further clarification.
Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the
fuse were to get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board
was, for all intents and purposes fried? Unless of course
if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
via USRP-users <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
<mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>> wrote:
Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
Ralph.
*From:*Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
<mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>]
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
*To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
*Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken -
can this be fixed?
Hey Ralph,
glueing in the connector at the old position sounds
like a solution for the "where to actually connect the
external power supply" problem that I haven't tackled :)
Two words of warning:
1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make
sure you don't accidentally glue the connector in in a
way that shorts the positive pins to ground; clearance
between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges
don't scratch of isolation. That usually gives you the
kind of short circuit that -- in the best case --
kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
resulting current melts the cable, which then flies
around, and touches anything that doesn't like the
voltage (been there, done that with PCB designs of my
own).
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
I would glue the connector in place again, and
then connect both ground and + with thin (!) wires
(enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
positions where they belong, not circumventing any
filtering. So this would ground, and be F100 or
the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
wires will increase chances that the board will
survive a second incident of this kind. I had to
do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
connector. After having it all in place I sealed
the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.
I can send photos later this day if anyone is
interested.
Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a
PITA, I wish they all were good old through hole
mount, what is more durable and usually easier to
repair when damaged.
Ralph.
*From:*USRP-users
[mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On
Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via USRP-users
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
*To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
<mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>
*Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken
- can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official
maintenance/repair instruction, but just a
description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane,
along with the pads that connect the power supply
ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find
another suitable ground connection to attach your
supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have
taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads
of your board; there's no way you'll be able to
re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1],
you'll notice that there is T600, which you
*could* directly feed with external supply
voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd lose
all power "sanitation" that happens between J601
and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf
choke/capacitor buffering circuit consisting of
F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate
the input side of F100 and try to solder on a
cable that you then might connect to your power
supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but
attaching power to a test point/pin header hole
might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of
power is possibly the cause you'd want to use an
external power supply in the first place. You
could also try to do a compromise: solder a lead
to the F100-side of L601 (which is much much
larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I
really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not
to use an external power supply without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via
USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power
port has come off the board. Can this be fixed
in any way? I've attached an image of the
board to the email.
Thanks,
Soumen
_______________________________________________
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
_______________________________________________
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
<mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
Hi Soumen,
yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs from the pad
of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo.
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
> Hi,
>
> In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont
> want to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive
> attached it again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the
> choice of fuse), I'd just go ahead and try to make this work by using
> my own fuse with it.
>
> Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I
> mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different
> color. I found a description for the green version of the board though
> and it mentioned that it glows green on external power. Does that hold
> for my(white) board as well?
>
> Regards,
> Soumen
>
> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com
> <mailto:soumen08@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I
> use another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action
> matter a whole lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and
> get away with it?
> Regards,
> Soumen
>
> On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras"
> <ralph@schmid.xxx> wrote:
>
> A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power
> supply with excessive voltage or reversed polarity.
>
>
>
> Ralph.
>
>
>
> *From:*Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
> <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
> *To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
> *Cc:* usrp-users
> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this
> be fixed?
>
>
>
> Hi Soumen,
>
> the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was
> really just about the connector having a place to sit. The
> positive contacts can't be saved.
>
> I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the
> wire shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the
> current from the connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is
> the right fuse to do that, but it's so tiny that you'll have a
> hard time soldering any cable to it, no matter how thin, thus
> my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 directly.
>
> Regarding why F100 is there:
> a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such
> inputs by principle alone :)
> b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be
> related to a rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it
> still protects the board -- for example, anything that falls
> onto the board might shorten supply voltage to ground, which
> would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. Also, the
> power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are
> designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload
> situation doesn't last too long or doesn't exceed a certain
> voltage.
>
> Greetings,
> Marcus
>
> On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is
> the positive pads that have been ripped off.
>
>
>
> I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with
> respect to glueing the power jack back onto the board. If
> I did that, I could easily re-establish the connection
> with the ground pad but Im not sure about the positive
> pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the
> power jack, and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so
> small, Im not sure that can be done with a micro-tip
> soldering iron. If you are suggesting something else, I
> could use a little further clarification.
>
>
>
> Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the
> fuse were to get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board
> was, for all intents and purposes fried? Unless of course
> if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Soumen
>
>
>
> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
> via USRP-users <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
> <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>> wrote:
>
> Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
>
>
>
> Ralph.
>
>
>
> *From:*Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
> <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
> *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
>
>
> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken -
> can this be fixed?
>
>
>
> Hey Ralph,
>
> glueing in the connector at the old position sounds
> like a solution for the "where to actually connect the
> external power supply" problem that I haven't tackled :)
> Two words of warning:
> 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make
> sure you don't accidentally glue the connector in in a
> way that shorts the positive pins to ground; clearance
> between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
> is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
> 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges
> don't scratch of isolation. That usually gives you the
> kind of short circuit that -- in the best case --
> kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
> resulting current melts the cable, which then flies
> around, and touches anything that doesn't like the
> voltage (been there, done that with PCB designs of my
> own).
>
> Greetings,
> Marcus
>
> On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
>
> I would glue the connector in place again, and
> then connect both ground and + with thin (!) wires
> (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
> positions where they belong, not circumventing any
> filtering. So this would ground, and be F100 or
> the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
> wires will increase chances that the board will
> survive a second incident of this kind. I had to
> do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
> connector. After having it all in place I sealed
> the surroundings with two-component epoxy glue.
>
>
>
> I can send photos later this day if anyone is
> interested.
>
>
>
> Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a
> PITA, I wish they all were good old through hole
> mount, what is more durable and usually easier to
> repair when damaged.
>
>
>
> Ralph.
>
>
>
> *From:*USRP-users
> [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via USRP-users
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
> *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
> <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken
> - can this be fixed?
>
>
>
> Hi Soumen,
>
> Disclaimer first: this is not an official
> maintenance/repair instruction, but just a
> description of what I see in your photo:
> The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane,
> along with the pads that connect the power supply
> ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
> fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find
> another suitable ground connection to attach your
> supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
> connector is the only thing that seems to have
> taken damage :)
>
> Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads
> of your board; there's no way you'll be able to
> re-solder the connector to the same position.
> Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1],
> you'll notice that there is T600, which you
> *could* directly feed with external supply
> voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd lose
> all power "sanitation" that happens between J601
> and T600, which is a bad thing.
>
> You could either duplicate the protection/hf
> choke/capacitor buffering circuit consisting of
> F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
> directly as possible to T600, or you could locate
> the input side of F100 and try to solder on a
> cable that you then might connect to your power
> supply somehow.
> The first option is more complicated, but
> attaching power to a test point/pin header hole
> might be much more reliable than trying to solder
> something to a 0402 package, and reliability of
> power is possibly the cause you'd want to use an
> external power supply in the first place. You
> could also try to do a compromise: solder a lead
> to the F100-side of L601 (which is much much
> larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I
> really like the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not
> to use an external power supply without a fuse.
>
> Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
> Marcus
>
> [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
>
> On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via
> USRP-users wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> The board fell off the table and the power
> port has come off the board. Can this be fixed
> in any way? I've attached an image of the
> board to the email.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Soumen
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> USRP-users mailing list
>
> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
>
> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> USRP-users mailing list
> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
> <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
SB
Soumen Banerjee
Wed, Feb 18, 2015 2:13 PM
Thanks a lot guys. I'm going to try putting this together right away and
see if it works.
Regards,
Soumen
On 18-Feb-2015 5:31 pm, "Marcus Müller" marcus.mueller@ettus.com wrote:
Hi Soumen,
yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs from the pad
of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo.
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
Hi,
In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont
want to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive attached
it again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the choice of fuse),
I'd just go ahead and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it.
Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I
mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different color. I
found a description for the green version of the board though and it
mentioned that it glows green on external power. Does that hold for
my(white) board as well?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee soumen08@gmail.com
wrote:
Hi,
Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use
another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole
lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it?
Regards,
Soumen
On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" ralph@schmid.xxx
ralph@schmid.xxx wrote:
A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply with
excessive voltage or reversed polarity.
Ralph.
From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
To: Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Cc: usrp-users
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just
about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be
saved.
I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire
shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the
connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that,
but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no
matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601
directly.
Regarding why F100 is there:
a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
principle alone :)
b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board --
for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply
voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse.
Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are
designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't
last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage.
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
Hi,
The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive
pads that have been ripped off.
I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to
glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can
be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something
else, I could use a little further clarification.
Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to
get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users <
usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:
Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
Ralph.
From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hey Ralph,
glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
haven't tackled :)
Two words of warning:
- ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins
to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
- when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
designs of my own).
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground
and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would
ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with
two-component epoxy glue.
I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier
to repair when damaged.
Ralph.
From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com
usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via
USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair
instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads
that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there
is T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but
I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
email.
Thanks,
Soumen
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
Thanks a lot guys. I'm going to try putting this together right away and
see if it works.
Regards,
Soumen
On 18-Feb-2015 5:31 pm, "Marcus Müller" <marcus.mueller@ettus.com> wrote:
> Hi Soumen,
>
> yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs from the pad
> of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo.
>
> Greetings,
> Marcus
>
>
> On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont
> want to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive attached
> it again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the choice of fuse),
> I'd just go ahead and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it.
>
> Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I
> mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different color. I
> found a description for the green version of the board though and it
> mentioned that it glows green on external power. Does that hold for
> my(white) board as well?
>
> Regards,
> Soumen
>
> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use
>> another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole
>> lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it?
>> Regards,
>> Soumen
>> On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" <ralph@schmid.xxx>
>> <ralph@schmid.xxx> wrote:
>>
>>> A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply with
>>> excessive voltage or reversed polarity.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Ralph.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
>>> *To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
>>> *Cc:* usrp-users
>>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi Soumen,
>>>
>>> the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really just
>>> about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't be
>>> saved.
>>>
>>> I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire
>>> shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the
>>> connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that,
>>> but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no
>>> matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601
>>> directly.
>>>
>>> Regarding why F100 is there:
>>> a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
>>> principle alone :)
>>> b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
>>> rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board --
>>> for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply
>>> voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse.
>>> Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are
>>> designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't
>>> last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage.
>>>
>>> Greetings,
>>> Marcus
>>>
>>> On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive
>>> pads that have been ripped off.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to
>>> glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
>>> re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
>>> positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
>>> and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can
>>> be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something
>>> else, I could use a little further clarification.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to
>>> get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
>>> fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>> Soumen
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users <
>>> usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Ralph.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
>>> *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
>>>
>>>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hey Ralph,
>>>
>>> glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
>>> the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
>>> haven't tackled :)
>>> Two words of warning:
>>> 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
>>> accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins
>>> to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
>>> is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
>>> 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
>>> isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
>>> best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
>>> resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
>>> anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
>>> designs of my own).
>>>
>>> Greetings,
>>> Marcus
>>>
>>> On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
>>>
>>> I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground
>>> and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
>>> positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would
>>> ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
>>> wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
>>> of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
>>> connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with
>>> two-component epoxy glue.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they all
>>> were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually easier
>>> to repair when damaged.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Ralph.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com
>>> <usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com>] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via
>>> USRP-users
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
>>> *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
>>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi Soumen,
>>>
>>> Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair
>>> instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo:
>>> The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads
>>> that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
>>> fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
>>> connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
>>> connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
>>>
>>> Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; there's
>>> no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same position.
>>> Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there
>>> is T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but
>>> I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
>>> between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
>>>
>>> You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
>>> circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
>>> directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
>>> and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
>>> supply somehow.
>>> The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
>>> point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
>>> something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
>>> you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
>>> also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
>>> is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
>>> the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
>>> without a fuse.
>>>
>>> Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
>>> Marcus
>>>
>>> [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
>>>
>>> On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
>>> Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
>>> email.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Soumen
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> USRP-users mailing list
>>>
>>> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
>>>
>>> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> USRP-users mailing list
>>> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
>>> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
SB
Soumen Banerjee
Thu, Feb 19, 2015 12:00 PM
Hi,
I've put the connector back together and Im not sure how to verify if the
entire thing worked or not.
Is there any indication whether the board is running on bus power or
external power? When I connected the board on external power (without
connecting the USB interface), no indicator lights came up. Does that mean
that the soldering etc didnt work? I have the white USRP B210.
Regards,
Soumen
On Wed, Feb 18, 2015 at 7:43 PM, Soumen Banerjee soumen08@gmail.com wrote:
Thanks a lot guys. I'm going to try putting this together right away and
see if it works.
Regards,
Soumen
On 18-Feb-2015 5:31 pm, "Marcus Müller" marcus.mueller@ettus.com wrote:
Hi Soumen,
yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs from the pad
of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo.
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
Hi,
In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont
want to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive attached
it again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the choice of fuse),
I'd just go ahead and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it.
Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I
mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different color. I
found a description for the green version of the board though and it
mentioned that it glows green on external power. Does that hold for
my(white) board as well?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee soumen08@gmail.com
wrote:
Hi,
Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use
another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole
lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it?
Regards,
Soumen
On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" ralph@schmid.xxx
ralph@schmid.xxx wrote:
A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply
with excessive voltage or reversed polarity.
Ralph.
From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
To: Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
Cc: usrp-users
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really
just about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't
be saved.
I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire
shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the
connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that,
but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no
matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601
directly.
Regarding why F100 is there:
a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
principle alone :)
b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board --
for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply
voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse.
Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are
designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't
last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage.
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
Hi,
The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive
pads that have been ripped off.
I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to
glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can
be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something
else, I could use a little further clarification.
Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to
get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users
usrp-users@lists.ettus.com wrote:
Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
Ralph.
From: Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
To: Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hey Ralph,
glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
haven't tackled :)
Two words of warning:
- ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins
to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
- when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
designs of my own).
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground
and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would
ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with
two-component epoxy glue.
I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they
all were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually
easier to repair when damaged.
Ralph.
From: USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com
usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via
USRP-users
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
To: usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
Subject: Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair
instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads
that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board;
there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same
position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there
is T600, which you could directly feed with external supply voltage, but
I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
email.
Thanks,
Soumen
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
Hi,
I've put the connector back together and Im not sure how to verify if the
entire thing worked or not.
Is there any indication whether the board is running on bus power or
external power? When I connected the board on external power (without
connecting the USB interface), no indicator lights came up. Does that mean
that the soldering etc didnt work? I have the white USRP B210.
Regards,
Soumen
On Wed, Feb 18, 2015 at 7:43 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks a lot guys. I'm going to try putting this together right away and
> see if it works.
> Regards,
> Soumen
> On 18-Feb-2015 5:31 pm, "Marcus Müller" <marcus.mueller@ettus.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Soumen,
>>
>> yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs from the pad
>> of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo.
>>
>> Greetings,
>> Marcus
>>
>>
>> On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont
>> want to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive attached
>> it again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the choice of fuse),
>> I'd just go ahead and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it.
>>
>> Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I
>> mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different color. I
>> found a description for the green version of the board though and it
>> mentioned that it glows green on external power. Does that hold for
>> my(white) board as well?
>>
>> Regards,
>> Soumen
>>
>> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi,
>>> Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use
>>> another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole
>>> lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it?
>>> Regards,
>>> Soumen
>>> On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" <ralph@schmid.xxx>
>>> <ralph@schmid.xxx> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply
>>>> with excessive voltage or reversed polarity.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Ralph.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
>>>> *To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
>>>> *Cc:* usrp-users
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi Soumen,
>>>>
>>>> the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really
>>>> just about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't
>>>> be saved.
>>>>
>>>> I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire
>>>> shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the
>>>> connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that,
>>>> but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no
>>>> matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601
>>>> directly.
>>>>
>>>> Regarding why F100 is there:
>>>> a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by
>>>> principle alone :)
>>>> b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a
>>>> rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board --
>>>> for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply
>>>> voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse.
>>>> Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are
>>>> designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't
>>>> last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage.
>>>>
>>>> Greetings,
>>>> Marcus
>>>>
>>>> On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive
>>>> pads that have been ripped off.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to
>>>> glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily
>>>> re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the
>>>> positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack,
>>>> and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can
>>>> be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something
>>>> else, I could use a little further clarification.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to
>>>> get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes
>>>> fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Regards,
>>>>
>>>> Soumen
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via USRP-users
>>>> <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Ralph.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com]
>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
>>>> *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hey Ralph,
>>>>
>>>> glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution for
>>>> the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that I
>>>> haven't tackled :)
>>>> Two words of warning:
>>>> 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't
>>>> accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins
>>>> to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
>>>> is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
>>>> 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of
>>>> isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the
>>>> best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the
>>>> resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches
>>>> anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB
>>>> designs of my own).
>>>>
>>>> Greetings,
>>>> Marcus
>>>>
>>>> On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both ground
>>>> and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the
>>>> positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would
>>>> ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin
>>>> wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident
>>>> of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
>>>> connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with
>>>> two-component epoxy glue.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they
>>>> all were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually
>>>> easier to repair when damaged.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Ralph.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From:* USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com
>>>> <usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com>] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via
>>>> USRP-users
>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
>>>> *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be fixed?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi Soumen,
>>>>
>>>> Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair
>>>> instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo:
>>>> The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads
>>>> that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't
>>>> fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground
>>>> connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power
>>>> connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
>>>>
>>>> Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board;
>>>> there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same
>>>> position.
>>>> Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that there
>>>> is T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply voltage, but
>>>> I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" that happens
>>>> between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing.
>>>>
>>>> You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
>>>> circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as
>>>> directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100
>>>> and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power
>>>> supply somehow.
>>>> The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test
>>>> point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder
>>>> something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause
>>>> you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could
>>>> also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which
>>>> is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
>>>> the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply
>>>> without a fuse.
>>>>
>>>> Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon,
>>>> Marcus
>>>>
>>>> [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
>>>>
>>>> On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi,
>>>>
>>>> The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the board.
>>>> Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to the
>>>> email.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> Soumen
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> USRP-users mailing list
>>>>
>>>> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
>>>>
>>>> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> USRP-users mailing list
>>>> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
>>>> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>>
MM
Marcus Müller
Thu, Feb 19, 2015 12:51 PM
Hi Soumen,
if connecting external doesn't power the device, your repair was not
successful.
How did you connect the connector to L601 / your fuse? How did you
connect connector ground to device ground?
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/19/2015 01:00 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
Hi,
I've put the connector back together and Im not sure how to verify if
the entire thing worked or not.
Is there any indication whether the board is running on bus power or
external power? When I connected the board on external power (without
connecting the USB interface), no indicator lights came up. Does that
mean that the soldering etc didnt work? I have the white USRP B210.
Regards,
Soumen
On Wed, Feb 18, 2015 at 7:43 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com
mailto:soumen08@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks a lot guys. I'm going to try putting this together right
away and see if it works.
Regards,
Soumen
On 18-Feb-2015 5:31 pm, "Marcus Müller" <marcus.mueller@ettus.com
<mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>> wrote:
Hi Soumen,
yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs
from the pad of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo.
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
Hi,
In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my
picture? I dont want to end up soldering on the wrong end if
I can help it :) Ive attached it again for reference. Once Im
sure on this one(and the choice of fuse), I'd just go ahead
and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it.
Would the status light glow a different color on external
power? I mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there
is a different color. I found a description for the green
version of the board though and it mentioned that it glows
green on external power. Does that hold for my(white) board
as well?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee
<soumen08@gmail.com <mailto:soumen08@gmail.com>> wrote:
Hi,
Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India.
Can I use another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the
fast action matter a whole lot? Perhaps I could use a
lower rating, say 2A and get away with it?
Regards,
Soumen
On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras"
<ralph@schmid.xxx> <mailto:ralph@schmid.xxx> wrote:
A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong
power supply with excessive voltage or reversed
polarity.
Ralph.
*From:*Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
<mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>]
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
*To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
*Cc:* usrp-users
*Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken -
can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
the idea that you could glue back the connector in
place was really just about the connector having a
place to sit. The positive contacts can't be saved.
I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph),
but the wire shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the
idea is to lead the current from the connetor through
a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do
that, but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time
soldering any cable to it, no matter how thin, thus
my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601
directly.
Regarding why F100 is there:
a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect
such inputs by principle alone :)
b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would
usually be related to a rather drastic board failure
somewhere else, it still protects the board -- for
example, anything that falls onto the board might
shorten supply voltage to ground, which would destroy
the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. Also, the power
converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors
are designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the
overload situation doesn't last too long or doesn't
exceed a certain voltage.
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
Hi,
The ground pad is actually available on the
board. It is the positive pads that have been
ripped off.
I'm a little unsure of what you guys are
suggesting with respect to glueing the power jack
back onto the board. If I did that, I could
easily re-establish the connection with the
ground pad but Im not sure about the positive
pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of
the power jack, and solder it before the F100?
The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can be
done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are
suggesting something else, I could use a little
further clarification.
Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at
all. If the fuse were to get blown, wouldnt it
mean that the board was, for all intents and
purposes fried? Unless of course if the fuse is
replaceable. Is it?
Regards,
Soumen
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid,
dk5ras via USRP-users <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
<mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>> wrote:
Yep, those warnings really should be
considered. BTST :)
Ralph.
*From:*Marcus Müller
[mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
<mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>]
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
*To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
*Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port
broken - can this be fixed?
Hey Ralph,
glueing in the connector at the old position
sounds like a solution for the "where to
actually connect the external power supply"
problem that I haven't tackled :)
Two words of warning:
1) ripping out might have damaged isolation,
so make sure you don't accidentally glue the
connector in in a way that shorts the
positive pins to ground; clearance between
the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
2) when using a cable, make triple sure board
edges don't scratch of isolation. That
usually gives you the kind of short circuit
that -- in the best case -- kills your power
supply, but might fry your PCB if the
resulting current melts the cable, which then
flies around, and touches anything that
doesn't like the voltage (been there, done
that with PCB designs of my own).
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid,
dk5ras wrote:
I would glue the connector in place
again, and then connect both ground and +
with thin (!) wires (enameled copper
wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions where
they belong, not circumventing any
filtering. So this would ground, and be
F100 or the connection between L600 and
C601. Using thin wires will increase
chances that the board will survive a
second incident of this kind. I had to do
this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
connector. After having it all in place I
sealed the surroundings with
two-component epoxy glue.
I can send photos later this day if
anyone is interested.
Those SMD mounted external connectors are
really a PITA, I wish they all were good
old through hole mount, what is more
durable and usually easier to repair when
damaged.
Ralph.
*From:*USRP-users
[mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com]
*On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via USRP-users
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
*To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
<mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>
*Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power
Port broken - can this be fixed?
Hi Soumen,
Disclaimer first: this is not an official
maintenance/repair instruction, but just
a description of what I see in your photo:
The fall broke off a large chunk of
ground plane, along with the pads that
connect the power supply ground. Whilst
this is ugly, I think it won't fatally
damage your B210; you'll just have to
find another suitable ground connection
to attach your supply's ground to. I'm
happy that the power connector is the
only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
Worse is that it cleanly pulled the
positive pads of your board; there's no
way you'll be able to re-solder the
connector to the same position.
Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics
[1], you'll notice that there is T600,
which you *could* directly feed with
external supply voltage, but I'd like to
point out that you'd lose all power
"sanitation" that happens between J601
and T600, which is a bad thing.
You could either duplicate the
protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
circuit consisting of F100, L601 and
C600-C602 and attach the output as
directly as possible to T600, or you
could locate the input side of F100 and
try to solder on a cable that you then
might connect to your power supply somehow.
The first option is more complicated, but
attaching power to a test point/pin
header hole might be much more reliable
than trying to solder something to a 0402
package, and reliability of power is
possibly the cause you'd want to use an
external power supply in the first place.
You could also try to do a compromise:
solder a lead to the F100-side of L601
(which is much much larger), and use your
own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to
use an external power supply without a fuse.
Best regards, and I hope your board gets
well soon,
Marcus
[1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee
via USRP-users wrote:
Hi,
The board fell off the table and the
power port has come off the board.
Can this be fixed in any way? I've
attached an image of the board to the
email.
Thanks,
Soumen
_______________________________________________
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com <mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
_______________________________________________
USRP-users mailing list
USRP-users@lists.ettus.com
<mailto:USRP-users@lists.ettus.com>
http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com
Hi Soumen,
if connecting external doesn't power the device, your repair was not
successful.
How did you connect the connector to L601 / your fuse? How did you
connect connector ground to device ground?
Greetings,
Marcus
On 02/19/2015 01:00 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
> Hi,
> I've put the connector back together and Im not sure how to verify if
> the entire thing worked or not.
>
> Is there any indication whether the board is running on bus power or
> external power? When I connected the board on external power (without
> connecting the USB interface), no indicator lights came up. Does that
> mean that the soldering etc didnt work? I have the white USRP B210.
>
> Regards,
> Soumen
>
> On Wed, Feb 18, 2015 at 7:43 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com
> <mailto:soumen08@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Thanks a lot guys. I'm going to try putting this together right
> away and see if it works.
> Regards,
> Soumen
>
> On 18-Feb-2015 5:31 pm, "Marcus Müller" <marcus.mueller@ettus.com
> <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>> wrote:
>
> Hi Soumen,
>
> yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs
> from the pad of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo.
>
> Greetings,
> Marcus
>
>
> On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my
>> picture? I dont want to end up soldering on the wrong end if
>> I can help it :) Ive attached it again for reference. Once Im
>> sure on this one(and the choice of fuse), I'd just go ahead
>> and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it.
>>
>> Would the status light glow a different color on external
>> power? I mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there
>> is a different color. I found a description for the green
>> version of the board though and it mentioned that it glows
>> green on external power. Does that hold for my(white) board
>> as well?
>>
>> Regards,
>> Soumen
>>
>> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee
>> <soumen08@gmail.com <mailto:soumen08@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>> Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India.
>> Can I use another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the
>> fast action matter a whole lot? Perhaps I could use a
>> lower rating, say 2A and get away with it?
>> Regards,
>> Soumen
>>
>> On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras"
>> <ralph@schmid.xxx> <mailto:ralph@schmid.xxx> wrote:
>>
>> A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong
>> power supply with excessive voltage or reversed
>> polarity.
>>
>>
>>
>> Ralph.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:*Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
>> <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>]
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM
>> *To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras
>> *Cc:* usrp-users
>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken -
>> can this be fixed?
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Soumen,
>>
>> the idea that you could glue back the connector in
>> place was really just about the connector having a
>> place to sit. The positive contacts can't be saved.
>>
>> I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph),
>> but the wire shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the
>> idea is to lead the current from the connetor through
>> a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do
>> that, but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time
>> soldering any cable to it, no matter how thin, thus
>> my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601
>> directly.
>>
>> Regarding why F100 is there:
>> a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect
>> such inputs by principle alone :)
>> b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would
>> usually be related to a rather drastic board failure
>> somewhere else, it still protects the board -- for
>> example, anything that falls onto the board might
>> shorten supply voltage to ground, which would destroy
>> the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. Also, the power
>> converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors
>> are designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the
>> overload situation doesn't last too long or doesn't
>> exceed a certain voltage.
>>
>> Greetings,
>> Marcus
>>
>> On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>>
>>
>> The ground pad is actually available on the
>> board. It is the positive pads that have been
>> ripped off.
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm a little unsure of what you guys are
>> suggesting with respect to glueing the power jack
>> back onto the board. If I did that, I could
>> easily re-establish the connection with the
>> ground pad but Im not sure about the positive
>> pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of
>> the power jack, and solder it before the F100?
>> The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can be
>> done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are
>> suggesting something else, I could use a little
>> further clarification.
>>
>>
>>
>> Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at
>> all. If the fuse were to get blown, wouldnt it
>> mean that the board was, for all intents and
>> purposes fried? Unless of course if the fuse is
>> replaceable. Is it?
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Soumen
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid,
>> dk5ras via USRP-users <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
>> <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Yep, those warnings really should be
>> considered. BTST :)
>>
>>
>>
>> Ralph.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:*Marcus Müller
>> [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com
>> <mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com>]
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM
>> *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users'
>>
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port
>> broken - can this be fixed?
>>
>>
>>
>> Hey Ralph,
>>
>> glueing in the connector at the old position
>> sounds like a solution for the "where to
>> actually connect the external power supply"
>> problem that I haven't tackled :)
>> Two words of warning:
>> 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation,
>> so make sure you don't accidentally glue the
>> connector in in a way that shorts the
>> positive pins to ground; clearance between
>> the supply voltage pads and the ground plane
>> is rather small, both carrying low voltage.
>> 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board
>> edges don't scratch of isolation. That
>> usually gives you the kind of short circuit
>> that -- in the best case -- kills your power
>> supply, but might fry your PCB if the
>> resulting current melts the cable, which then
>> flies around, and touches anything that
>> doesn't like the voltage (been there, done
>> that with PCB designs of my own).
>>
>> Greetings,
>> Marcus
>>
>> On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid,
>> dk5ras wrote:
>>
>> I would glue the connector in place
>> again, and then connect both ground and +
>> with thin (!) wires (enameled copper
>> wire, 0.1mm or so) to the positions where
>> they belong, not circumventing any
>> filtering. So this would ground, and be
>> F100 or the connection between L600 and
>> C601. Using thin wires will increase
>> chances that the board will survive a
>> second incident of this kind. I had to do
>> this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0
>> connector. After having it all in place I
>> sealed the surroundings with
>> two-component epoxy glue.
>>
>>
>>
>> I can send photos later this day if
>> anyone is interested.
>>
>>
>>
>> Those SMD mounted external connectors are
>> really a PITA, I wish they all were good
>> old through hole mount, what is more
>> durable and usually easier to repair when
>> damaged.
>>
>>
>>
>> Ralph.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:*USRP-users
>> [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com]
>> *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller via USRP-users
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM
>> *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com
>> <mailto:usrp-users@lists.ettus.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power
>> Port broken - can this be fixed?
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Soumen,
>>
>> Disclaimer first: this is not an official
>> maintenance/repair instruction, but just
>> a description of what I see in your photo:
>> The fall broke off a large chunk of
>> ground plane, along with the pads that
>> connect the power supply ground. Whilst
>> this is ugly, I think it won't fatally
>> damage your B210; you'll just have to
>> find another suitable ground connection
>> to attach your supply's ground to. I'm
>> happy that the power connector is the
>> only thing that seems to have taken damage :)
>>
>> Worse is that it cleanly pulled the
>> positive pads of your board; there's no
>> way you'll be able to re-solder the
>> connector to the same position.
>> Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics
>> [1], you'll notice that there is T600,
>> which you *could* directly feed with
>> external supply voltage, but I'd like to
>> point out that you'd lose all power
>> "sanitation" that happens between J601
>> and T600, which is a bad thing.
>>
>> You could either duplicate the
>> protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering
>> circuit consisting of F100, L601 and
>> C600-C602 and attach the output as
>> directly as possible to T600, or you
>> could locate the input side of F100 and
>> try to solder on a cable that you then
>> might connect to your power supply somehow.
>> The first option is more complicated, but
>> attaching power to a test point/pin
>> header hole might be much more reliable
>> than trying to solder something to a 0402
>> package, and reliability of power is
>> possibly the cause you'd want to use an
>> external power supply in the first place.
>> You could also try to do a compromise:
>> solder a lead to the F100-side of L601
>> (which is much much larger), and use your
>> own 4A fast response fuse. I really like
>> the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to
>> use an external power supply without a fuse.
>>
>> Best regards, and I hope your board gets
>> well soon,
>> Marcus
>>
>> [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/
>>
>> On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee
>> via USRP-users wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> The board fell off the table and the
>> power port has come off the board.
>> Can this be fixed in any way? I've
>> attached an image of the board to the
>> email.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Soumen
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
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>>
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>>
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
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