Hi, The connector had been connected to the end of the L601 that I had circled earlier and the ground had been connected to the ground pad. Today, I had the technician remove the epoxy etc and unsolder the connections he had made. Then, I validated the entire thing with a DC supply (regulated to 2A). I found that the T600 output could successfully power the board and then I tried with the end of the inductor I had marker earlier as well. To my delight, it worked! Then, I had the technician simply pull a pair of leads from the ground pad and the circled end of the inductor and make crocodile clips out of them. When I tried with these, it worked well. I guess there had been some problem with using the connector yesterday. So, the board is fixed now. Thanks for your help. I'm sure I couldn't have done it without all of you guys! Since I was going to use the board outdoors, I'm considering powering the board with a battery of some sort. I could join AA batteries together or I guess I could use one of these power banks for phones (they provide steady 5V and about 2A). Is there anything I need to be careful about if I try to do that? Is it okay to power the board using batteries? Regards, Soumen On Thu, Feb 19, 2015 at 6:21 PM, Marcus Müller <marcus.mueller@ettus.com> wrote: > Hi Soumen, > if connecting external doesn't power the device, your repair was not > successful. > How did you connect the connector to L601 / your fuse? How did you connect > connector ground to device ground? > > Greetings, > Marcus > > > On 02/19/2015 01:00 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote: > > Hi, > I've put the connector back together and Im not sure how to verify if the > entire thing worked or not. > > Is there any indication whether the board is running on bus power or > external power? When I connected the board on external power (without > connecting the USB interface), no indicator lights came up. Does that mean > that the soldering etc didnt work? I have the white USRP B210. > > Regards, > Soumen > > On Wed, Feb 18, 2015 at 7:43 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com> > wrote: > >> Thanks a lot guys. I'm going to try putting this together right away and >> see if it works. >> Regards, >> Soumen >> On 18-Feb-2015 5:31 pm, "Marcus Müller" <marcus.mueller@ettus.com> >> wrote: >> >>> Hi Soumen, >>> >>> yes, that end looks fine; notice the little trace that runs from the pad >>> of L601 straight down to F100 in your photo. >>> >>> Greetings, >>> Marcus >>> >>> >>> On 02/18/2015 04:47 AM, Soumen Banerjee wrote: >>> >>> Hi, >>> >>> In addition, did I mark the correct end of L601 in my picture? I dont >>> want to end up soldering on the wrong end if I can help it :) Ive attached >>> it again for reference. Once Im sure on this one(and the choice of fuse), >>> I'd just go ahead and try to make this work by using my own fuse with it. >>> >>> Would the status light glow a different color on external power? I >>> mostly use it on bus power, so I dont know if there is a different color. I >>> found a description for the green version of the board though and it >>> mentioned that it glows green on external power. Does that hold for >>> my(white) board as well? >>> >>> Regards, >>> Soumen >>> >>> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Soumen Banerjee <soumen08@gmail.com> >>> wrote: >>> >>>> Hi, >>>> Im not sure how to procure the fuse you mention in India. Can I use >>>> another fuse with the 4 amp rating? Does the fast action matter a whole >>>> lot? Perhaps I could use a lower rating, say 2A and get away with it? >>>> Regards, >>>> Soumen >>>> On 17-Feb-2015 8:28 pm, "Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras" <ralph@schmid.xxx> >>>> <ralph@schmid.xxx> wrote: >>>> >>>>> A fuse is always a good idea, mostly against a wrong power supply >>>>> with excessive voltage or reversed polarity. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Ralph. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com] >>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 3:49 PM >>>>> *To:* Soumen Banerjee; Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras >>>>> *Cc:* usrp-users >>>>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be >>>>> fixed? >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Hi Soumen, >>>>> >>>>> the idea that you could glue back the connector in place was really >>>>> just about the connector having a place to sit. The positive contacts can't >>>>> be saved. >>>>> >>>>> I'd have to stick with Sylvain here (sorry, Ralph), but the wire >>>>> shouldn't be very thin. But yes, the idea is to lead the current from the >>>>> connetor through a fuse to L601. Now, F100 is the right fuse to do that, >>>>> but it's so tiny that you'll have a hard time soldering any cable to it, no >>>>> matter how thin, thus my approach to use your own fuse, and solder to L601 >>>>> directly. >>>>> >>>>> Regarding why F100 is there: >>>>> a) it's an external power supply. You simply protect such inputs by >>>>> principle alone :) >>>>> b) Whilst you're right, and a blown fuse would usually be related to a >>>>> rather drastic board failure somewhere else, it still protects the board -- >>>>> for example, anything that falls onto the board might shorten supply >>>>> voltage to ground, which would destroy the PCB, if it wasn't for the fuse. >>>>> Also, the power converter semiconductors, inductors and capacitors are >>>>> designed with quite a bit of headroom, if the overload situation doesn't >>>>> last too long or doesn't exceed a certain voltage. >>>>> >>>>> Greetings, >>>>> Marcus >>>>> >>>>> On 02/17/2015 03:16 PM, Soumen Banerjee wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Hi, >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> The ground pad is actually available on the board. It is the positive >>>>> pads that have been ripped off. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> I'm a little unsure of what you guys are suggesting with respect to >>>>> glueing the power jack back onto the board. If I did that, I could easily >>>>> re-establish the connection with the ground pad but Im not sure about the >>>>> positive pad. Are you suggesting I take a thin lead out of the power jack, >>>>> and solder it before the F100? The F100 is so small, Im not sure that can >>>>> be done with a micro-tip soldering iron. If you are suggesting something >>>>> else, I could use a little further clarification. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Also, I was wondering why we have the fuse at all. If the fuse were to >>>>> get blown, wouldnt it mean that the board was, for all intents and purposes >>>>> fried? Unless of course if the fuse is replaceable. Is it? >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Regards, >>>>> >>>>> Soumen >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras via >>>>> USRP-users <usrp-users@lists.ettus.com> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Yep, those warnings really should be considered. BTST :) >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Ralph. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> *From:* Marcus Müller [mailto:marcus.mueller@ettus.com] >>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 2:19 PM >>>>> *To:* Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras; 'usrp-users' >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be >>>>> fixed? >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Hey Ralph, >>>>> >>>>> glueing in the connector at the old position sounds like a solution >>>>> for the "where to actually connect the external power supply" problem that >>>>> I haven't tackled :) >>>>> Two words of warning: >>>>> 1) ripping out might have damaged isolation, so make sure you don't >>>>> accidentally glue the connector in in a way that shorts the positive pins >>>>> to ground; clearance between the supply voltage pads and the ground plane >>>>> is rather small, both carrying low voltage. >>>>> 2) when using a cable, make triple sure board edges don't scratch of >>>>> isolation. That usually gives you the kind of short circuit that -- in the >>>>> best case -- kills your power supply, but might fry your PCB if the >>>>> resulting current melts the cable, which then flies around, and touches >>>>> anything that doesn't like the voltage (been there, done that with PCB >>>>> designs of my own). >>>>> >>>>> Greetings, >>>>> Marcus >>>>> >>>>> On 02/17/2015 02:05 PM, Ralph A. Schmid, dk5ras wrote: >>>>> >>>>> I would glue the connector in place again, and then connect both >>>>> ground and + with thin (!) wires (enameled copper wire, 0.1mm or so) to the >>>>> positions where they belong, not circumventing any filtering. So this would >>>>> ground, and be F100 or the connection between L600 and C601. Using thin >>>>> wires will increase chances that the board will survive a second incident >>>>> of this kind. I had to do this with the Nuand BladeRF MicroUSB3.0 >>>>> connector. After having it all in place I sealed the surroundings with >>>>> two-component epoxy glue. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> I can send photos later this day if anyone is interested. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Those SMD mounted external connectors are really a PITA, I wish they >>>>> all were good old through hole mount, what is more durable and usually >>>>> easier to repair when damaged. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Ralph. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> *From:* USRP-users [mailto:usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com >>>>> <usrp-users-bounces@lists.ettus.com>] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Müller >>>>> via USRP-users >>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:54 AM >>>>> *To:* usrp-users@lists.ettus.com >>>>> *Subject:* Re: [USRP-users] B210 Power Port broken - can this be >>>>> fixed? >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Hi Soumen, >>>>> >>>>> Disclaimer first: this is not an official maintenance/repair >>>>> instruction, but just a description of what I see in your photo: >>>>> The fall broke off a large chunk of ground plane, along with the pads >>>>> that connect the power supply ground. Whilst this is ugly, I think it won't >>>>> fatally damage your B210; you'll just have to find another suitable ground >>>>> connection to attach your supply's ground to. I'm happy that the power >>>>> connector is the only thing that seems to have taken damage :) >>>>> >>>>> Worse is that it cleanly pulled the positive pads of your board; >>>>> there's no way you'll be able to re-solder the connector to the same >>>>> position. >>>>> Having a look at the B210/B200 schematics [1], you'll notice that >>>>> there is T600, which you *could* directly feed with external supply >>>>> voltage, but I'd like to point out that you'd lose all power "sanitation" >>>>> that happens between J601 and T600, which is a bad thing. >>>>> >>>>> You could either duplicate the protection/hf choke/capacitor buffering >>>>> circuit consisting of F100, L601 and C600-C602 and attach the output as >>>>> directly as possible to T600, or you could locate the input side of F100 >>>>> and try to solder on a cable that you then might connect to your power >>>>> supply somehow. >>>>> The first option is more complicated, but attaching power to a test >>>>> point/pin header hole might be much more reliable than trying to solder >>>>> something to a 0402 package, and reliability of power is possibly the cause >>>>> you'd want to use an external power supply in the first place. You could >>>>> also try to do a compromise: solder a lead to the F100-side of L601 (which >>>>> is much much larger), and use your own 4A fast response fuse. I really like >>>>> the Ettus hardware, so I'd ask you not to use an external power supply >>>>> without a fuse. >>>>> >>>>> Best regards, and I hope your board gets well soon, >>>>> Marcus >>>>> >>>>> [1] http://files.ettus.com/schematics/ >>>>> >>>>> On 02/17/2015 11:18 AM, Soumen Banerjee via USRP-users wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Hi, >>>>> >>>>> The board fell off the table and the power port has come off the >>>>> board. Can this be fixed in any way? I've attached an image of the board to >>>>> the email. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Thanks, >>>>> >>>>> Soumen >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> >>>>> USRP-users mailing list >>>>> >>>>> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com >>>>> >>>>> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> USRP-users mailing list >>>>> USRP-users@lists.ettus.com >>>>> http://lists.ettus.com/mailman/listinfo/usrp-users_lists.ettus.com >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>> >>> > >