If the contacts are loose and individually extractable/insertable, the pin
is probably a dummy pin to substitute for the more expensive brass/gold
pins. This is so the rubber does not distorted over time.

-John

Take a look at ebay auction 261315795465.  It's a mil-spec connector and I don't see any way for the connector pins to come out.  It looks like it's probably pressure tight.  You can see the blue plastic pin in the third picture.  It's almost like it has something to do with the rubber strain relief/enviro shield, but I dunno what.

Bob

It's what I said. A blanking pin for the hole in the rubber seal, except
that it's only for the seal, not the whole connector.

-John

================

OK,  now it makes sense!

thanks!

Bob

Wouldn't this be a pin-extractor?

-Don

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Bob Stewart
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2013 8:53 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] MS3106R10SL-4S connector question

Take a look at eBay auction 261315795465.  It's a mil-spec connector and I
don't see any way for the connector pins to come out.  It looks like it's
probably pressure tight.  You can see the blue plastic pin in the third
picture.  It's almost like it has something to do with the rubber strain
relief/enviro shield, but I dunno what.

Bob

measurement time-nuts@febo.com

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No. Wrong shape.

-John

==============

Hi,
John is correct. The plastic pin is used when a contact position is not wired. You put the unwired pin in first and then insert the plastic pin behind it, thick end first. It replaces the wire to seal that individual hole and also maintain correct seal pressure on the other wires. Blue for #16 pins, Red for #20. Not required if you don't need a full environmental seal.

Robert G8RPI. CEng, MRAeS, EASA licenced avionics engineer. (i.e. this is a definitive answer, I can certify that one of these is correctly installed on an aircraft :-)

From: J. Forster jfor@quikus.com
To: Bob Stewart bob@evoria.net; Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Tuesday, 10 December 2013, 2:58
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] MS3106R10SL-4S connector question

It's what I said. A blanking pin for the hole in the rubber seal, except
that it's only for the seal, not the whole connector.

-John

================

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Thanks Robert.  So, am I right in thinking that you insert the small end from the connector side of the rubber grommet and pull it through until the thick part just touches the narrowed place in the grommet?  They have it sized to imply that.  Are there any assembly documents on the net that lay it out in a straightforward manner?  I couldn't find anything related to the plastic pin.  Note that this is for future info.  I've assembled my connector with 2 wires and given it my blessing.  =)

Bob

If you are using both wires of a two-pin connector the question is moot.

There are exquisitely detailed docs on connector assembly out there, both
from the manufacturers and agencies like NASA. They include everything
from tool settings, proper locators, to assembly torques.

IMO, unless you are building a spacecraft or somesuch, solder in your
wires, assemble the connector, and be happy.

You can spend years learning about mil connectors.

YMMV,

-John

==================