Hi Bob, Not quite. You push the thick end of the plastic plug (technically a "wire hole filler" which says it all) into the rubber seal from the wire (back) side of the connector. You should of course have put an uncrimped pin in the positon first. There is some guidance here http://www.pavetechnologyco.com/faq/pdf/csg130-132.pdf Note that this is a MIL-DTL-5015 series connector and is also available with fixed solder pins (class A and C) rather than the removeable pis of the class R if to are bored see http://www.assistdocs.com/search/document_details.cfm?ident_number=5201&StartRow=1&PaginatorPageNumber=1&doc_id=5015&status_all=ON&search_method=BASIC and click on the revision H pdf icon. HTH, Robert G8RPI ________________________________ From: Bob Stewart <bob@evoria.net> To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement <time-nuts@febo.com> Sent: Tuesday, 10 December 2013, 18:38 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] MS3106R10SL-4S connector question Thanks Robert.  So, am I right in thinking that you insert the small end from the connector side of the rubber grommet and pull it through until the thick part just touches the narrowed place in the grommet?  They have it sized to imply that.  Are there any assembly documents on the net that lay it out in a straightforward manner?  I couldn't find anything related to the plastic pin.  Note that this is for future info.  I've assembled my connector with 2 wires and given it my blessing.  =) Bob >________________________________ > From: Robert Atkinson <robert8rpi@yahoo.co.uk> >To: "jfor@quikus.com" <jfor@quikus.com>; Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement <time-nuts@febo.com> >Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 12:27 PM >Subject: Re: [time-nuts] MS3106R10SL-4S connector question > > >Hi, >John is correct. The plastic pin is used when a contact position is not wired. You put the unwired pin in first and then insert the plastic pin behind it, thick end first. It replaces the wire to seal that individual hole and also maintain correct seal pressure on the other wires. Blue for #16 pins, Red for #20. Not required if you don't need a full environmental seal. > >Robert G8RPI. CEng, MRAeS, EASA licenced avionics engineer. (i.e. this is a definitive answer, I can certify that one of these is correctly installed on an aircraft :-) > > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.