john@scawbydesign.co.uk said:
Just to put the record straight, I am a 72-year-old retired electronics
specialist who uses a 50-year-old Weller soldering iron and a magnified
(x3.5) bench light to solder 64pin 0.5mm pitch MSP430 microprocessors by
hand. As I said - "... not impossible to solder."
How long does it take?
I've seen a writeup that says roughly, lots of flux, get a blob of solder on
the tip of the iron and sweep it across a row of pins. If all goes well, it
just works. I haven't tried it.
It was many years ago when I noticed that my eyes getting older had crossed
over the pins getting smaller.
--
These are my opinions. I hate spam.
When soldering parts with tight pin spacings, don't forget the trick of
clearing shorts
between adjacent pins using copper braid freshly wet with liquid flux. The
message
here is: don't panic if you create a short or even a group of shorts while
soldering.
It happens all the time and is pretty easy to recover from.
Dana
On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 5:27 AM Hal Murray hmurray@megapathdsl.net wrote:
john@scawbydesign.co.uk said:
Just to put the record straight, I am a 72-year-old retired electronics
specialist who uses a 50-year-old Weller soldering iron and a magnified
(x3.5) bench light to solder 64pin 0.5mm pitch MSP430 microprocessors by
hand. As I said - "... not impossible to solder."
How long does it take?
I've seen a writeup that says roughly, lots of flux, get a blob of solder
on
the tip of the iron and sweep it across a row of pins. If all goes well,
it
just works. I haven't tried it.
It was many years ago when I noticed that my eyes getting older had
crossed
over the pins getting smaller.
--
These are my opinions. I hate spam.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
and follow the instructions there.
I do have a microscope (cheap Chinese unit, maybe $400 with articulated arm and the works) and it does make things much easier. But as long as you can see the work, you can do the job.
It's not that hard to do small pitch parts. I usually do the best I can soldering individual pins, knowing their will be bridges, then clean up with solder wick and lots of no-clean flux. You can never have too much flux. I've found a 1.6 mm chisel tip is a good all around size for SMD work, though I have a 0.8 mm chisel available for when things get tight.
The hardest part is getting the first couple of pins tacked down so the part is square on the pads. After that it's fast.
John
On Apr 25, 2020, 6:27 AM, at 6:27 AM, Hal Murray hmurray@megapathdsl.net wrote:
john@scawbydesign.co.uk said:
Just to put the record straight, I am a 72-year-old retired
electronics
specialist who uses a 50-year-old Weller soldering iron and a
magnified
(x3.5) bench light to solder 64pin 0.5mm pitch MSP430 microprocessors
by
hand. As I said - "... not impossible to solder."
How long does it take?
I've seen a writeup that says roughly, lots of flux, get a blob of
solder on
the tip of the iron and sweep it across a row of pins. If all goes
well, it
just works. I haven't tried it.
It was many years ago when I noticed that my eyes getting older had
crossed
over the pins getting smaller.
--
These are my opinions. I hate spam.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
and follow the instructions there.
Am 25.04.20 um 13:41 schrieb John Ackermann:
I do have a microscope (cheap Chinese unit, maybe $400 with articulated arm and the works) and it does make things much easier. But as long as you can see the work, you can do the job.
It's not that hard to do small pitch parts. I usually do the best I can soldering individual pins, knowing their will be bridges, then clean up with solder wick and lots of no-clean flux. You can never have too much flux. I've found a 1.6 mm chisel tip is a good all around size for SMD work, though I have a 0.8 mm chisel available for when things get tight.
The hardest part is getting the first couple of pins tacked down so the part is square on the pads. After that it's fast.
John
I have about the same here, plus a cheap Chinese Ayoue852 hot air
station. Exchanging the Weller for a Metcal was the biggest improvement
after the LED ringlight for the microscope.
In my quest to scrutinize the 1/f region, I have built some chopper
amplifiers and the newest one will have GaN transistors that are nekkid
chips with jut 4 tin bumps below. No case, just the passivated chip, 1 *
1 mm, EPC2038. Low channel resistance, even lower capacitance -> low
charge injection. Resistors are 0603.
Fearing I could not handle them, I made a minimum version of the switch
itself as a test structure in an unoccupied corner of a different
project. But soldering did take just 3 minutes, it was surprisingly
easy. Just keep the air flow low enough, or you will have trouble to
find the chips again. The thick-liquid flux helps to fix the chips in
place.
Legible part numbers on the board are hopeless at this scale. The board
was made by PCBway, there were some discussions about having solder mask
ON part of the pads, and some discussions with our German customs that
you cannot buy 10 boards for $10 or so.
The chips are the gray squares between the 2 vias on the left and the 4
huge coupling capacitors.
Cheers, Gerhard
John,
What you and I do for SMT type IC's is pretty much the same.
Several years ago the wife of a close friend was
in the re-work business with a home setup. What
she taught me was to first line up one of the
corner pins and tack solder it down. Then do the
opposite corner, center the pin and tack solder
it down. Do that with all four corners, taking
care that the pins are properly centered before
tack soldering them. Once you've got the four
corners properly in places, then go and center
the remaining pins; depending on the size of the
chip, this might require either a microscope or
very pointy eyes. Once all the pins are properly
centered, flow solder over all the pins. At this
point shorting all the pins together is not a problem.
Once you've flowed soldered across all of the
pins you need to slurp up all of the solder with
a fine pitch SolderWick. If done correctly you
will wind up with all of the pins properly
soldered and centered. The next step is to
remove and flux using Denatured Alcohol. Once
that's completed, inspect for any possible shorts
or pins in the wrong place. If all looks good,
cover your eyes and power it up.
I have done the above one time on my own and to my utter amazement it worked!
Burt, K6OQK
At 04:41 AM 4/25/2020, you wrote:
I do have a microscope (cheap Chinese unit,
maybe $400 with articulated arm and the works)
and it does make things much easier. But as
long as you can see the work, you can do the
job. It's not that hard to do small pitch
parts. I usually do the best I can soldering
individual pins, knowing their will be bridges,
then clean up with solder wick and lots of
no-clean flux. You can never have too much
flux. I've found a 1.6 mm chisel tip is a good
all around size for SMD work, though I have a
0.8 mm chisel available for when things get
tight. The hardest part is getting the first
couple of pins tacked down so the part is square on the pads
Burt I. Weiner Associates
Broadcast Technical Services
Glendale, California U.S.A.
biwa@att.net
K6OQK
Here's a good follow along for close pitch soldering:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uiroWBkdFY
Haven't had to solder anything this close pitch but the video is just one in
a series of good soldering techniques.
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts time-nuts-bounces@lists.febo.com On Behalf Of Hal Murray
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 05:27
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
time-nuts@lists.febo.com
Cc: hmurray@megapathdsl.net
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Vaperware Parts and pulse stretching circuits
john@scawbydesign.co.uk said:
Just to put the record straight, I am a 72-year-old retired
electronics specialist who uses a 50-year-old Weller soldering iron
and a magnified
(x3.5) bench light to solder 64pin 0.5mm pitch MSP430 microprocessors
by hand. As I said - "... not impossible to solder."
How long does it take?
I've seen a writeup that says roughly, lots of flux, get a blob of solder on
the tip of the iron and sweep it across a row of pins. If all goes well, it
just works. I haven't tried it.
It was many years ago when I noticed that my eyes getting older had crossed
over the pins getting smaller.
--
These are my opinions. I hate spam.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
and follow the instructions there.
I totally agree with the Metcal soldering station!!! I'll never go back to
anything else. I don't even use a scope. I bought some magnifying glasses
with 5 sets of different power lenses you wear like glasses. It has built
in led light and adjustable strap that hold it on your head off Amazon.
Works great. I can do all small surface mount stuff with them. Plus I
have my normal vision and hand eye coordination going that way. Soldering
under a scope or on a video monitor is a lesson all in itself!
Bill
On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 6:15 AM Gerhard Hoffmann ghf@hoffmann-hochfrequenz.de
wrote:
Am 25.04.20 um 13:41 schrieb John Ackermann:
I do have a microscope (cheap Chinese unit, maybe $400 with articulated
arm and the works) and it does make things much easier. But as long as you
can see the work, you can do the job.
It's not that hard to do small pitch parts. I usually do the best I can
soldering individual pins, knowing their will be bridges, then clean up
with solder wick and lots of no-clean flux. You can never have too much
flux. I've found a 1.6 mm chisel tip is a good all around size for SMD
work, though I have a 0.8 mm chisel available for when things get tight.
The hardest part is getting the first couple of pins tacked down so the
part is square on the pads. After that it's fast.
John
I have about the same here, plus a cheap Chinese Ayoue852 hot air
station. Exchanging the Weller for a Metcal was the biggest improvement
after the LED ringlight for the microscope.
In my quest to scrutinize the 1/f region, I have built some chopper
amplifiers and the newest one will have GaN transistors that are nekkid
chips with jut 4 tin bumps below. No case, just the passivated chip, 1 *
1 mm, EPC2038. Low channel resistance, even lower capacitance -> low
charge injection. Resistors are 0603.
Fearing I could not handle them, I made a minimum version of the switch
itself as a test structure in an unoccupied corner of a different
project. But soldering did take just 3 minutes, it was surprisingly
easy. Just keep the air flow low enough, or you will have trouble to
find the chips again. The thick-liquid flux helps to fix the chips in
place.
Legible part numbers on the board are hopeless at this scale. The board
was made by PCBway, there were some discussions about having solder mask
ON part of the pads, and some discussions with our German customs that
you cannot buy 10 boards for $10 or so.
The chips are the gray squares between the 2 vias on the left and the 4
huge coupling capacitors.
Cheers, Gerhard
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
and follow the instructions there.
They make quite a few models which one are you recommending?
-=Bryan=-
From: time-nuts time-nuts-bounces@lists.febo.com on behalf of Bill Notfaded notfaded1@gmail.com
Sent: April 25, 2020 5:38 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@lists.febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Vaperware Parts and pulse stretching circuits
I totally agree with the Metcal soldering station!!! I'll never go back to
anything else. I don't even use a scope. I bought some magnifying glasses
with 5 sets of different power lenses you wear like glasses. It has built
in led light and adjustable strap that hold it on your head off Amazon.
Works great. I can do all small surface mount stuff with them. Plus I
have my normal vision and hand eye coordination going that way. Soldering
under a scope or on a video monitor is a lesson all in itself!
Bill
On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 6:15 AM Gerhard Hoffmann ghf@hoffmann-hochfrequenz.de
wrote:
Am 25.04.20 um 13:41 schrieb John Ackermann:
I do have a microscope (cheap Chinese unit, maybe $400 with articulated
arm and the works) and it does make things much easier. But as long as you
can see the work, you can do the job.
It's not that hard to do small pitch parts. I usually do the best I can
soldering individual pins, knowing their will be bridges, then clean up
with solder wick and lots of no-clean flux. You can never have too much
flux. I've found a 1.6 mm chisel tip is a good all around size for SMD
work, though I have a 0.8 mm chisel available for when things get tight.
The hardest part is getting the first couple of pins tacked down so the
part is square on the pads. After that it's fast.
John
I have about the same here, plus a cheap Chinese Ayoue852 hot air
station. Exchanging the Weller for a Metcal was the biggest improvement
after the LED ringlight for the microscope.
In my quest to scrutinize the 1/f region, I have built some chopper
amplifiers and the newest one will have GaN transistors that are nekkid
chips with jut 4 tin bumps below. No case, just the passivated chip, 1 *
1 mm, EPC2038. Low channel resistance, even lower capacitance -> low
charge injection. Resistors are 0603.
Fearing I could not handle them, I made a minimum version of the switch
itself as a test structure in an unoccupied corner of a different
project. But soldering did take just 3 minutes, it was surprisingly
easy. Just keep the air flow low enough, or you will have trouble to
find the chips again. The thick-liquid flux helps to fix the chips in
place.
Legible part numbers on the board are hopeless at this scale. The board
was made by PCBway, there were some discussions about having solder mask
ON part of the pads, and some discussions with our German customs that
you cannot buy 10 boards for $10 or so.
The chips are the gray squares between the 2 vias on the left and the 4
huge coupling capacitors.
Cheers, Gerhard
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
and follow the instructions there.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
and follow the instructions there.
I personally have an MX-500P
I like that it turns itself off if you do not use it after a few minutes,
and it takes about 15 seconds to have the tip back into soldering
temperature, so there is no reason to leave it on any longer than you need
it then and now and the tip won't burn.
Tips and accessories are fairly expensive from Metcal but a lot of stuff is
available on eBay if you wait a little bit.
I have a nice collection of tips for various packages that I have
accumulated over the year, and I have the desoldering tool as well.
Highly recommended.
Didier KO4BB
On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 8:07 PM Bryan _ bpl521@outlook.com wrote:
They make quite a few models which one are you recommending?
-=Bryan=-
From: time-nuts time-nuts-bounces@lists.febo.com on behalf of Bill
Notfaded notfaded1@gmail.com
Sent: April 25, 2020 5:38 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement <
time-nuts@lists.febo.com>
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Vaperware Parts and pulse stretching circuits
I totally agree with the Metcal soldering station!!! I'll never go back to
anything else. I don't even use a scope. I bought some magnifying glasses
with 5 sets of different power lenses you wear like glasses. It has built
in led light and adjustable strap that hold it on your head off Amazon.
Works great. I can do all small surface mount stuff with them. Plus I
have my normal vision and hand eye coordination going that way. Soldering
under a scope or on a video monitor is a lesson all in itself!
Bill
On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 6:15 AM Gerhard Hoffmann <
ghf@hoffmann-hochfrequenz.de>
wrote:
Am 25.04.20 um 13:41 schrieb John Ackermann:
I do have a microscope (cheap Chinese unit, maybe $400 with articulated
arm and the works) and it does make things much easier. But as long as
you
can see the work, you can do the job.
It's not that hard to do small pitch parts. I usually do the best I
can
soldering individual pins, knowing their will be bridges, then clean up
with solder wick and lots of no-clean flux. You can never have too
much
flux. I've found a 1.6 mm chisel tip is a good all around size for SMD
work, though I have a 0.8 mm chisel available for when things get tight.
The hardest part is getting the first couple of pins tacked down so the
part is square on the pads. After that it's fast.
John
I have about the same here, plus a cheap Chinese Ayoue852 hot air
station. Exchanging the Weller for a Metcal was the biggest improvement
after the LED ringlight for the microscope.
In my quest to scrutinize the 1/f region, I have built some chopper
amplifiers and the newest one will have GaN transistors that are nekkid
chips with jut 4 tin bumps below. No case, just the passivated chip, 1 *
1 mm, EPC2038. Low channel resistance, even lower capacitance -> low
charge injection. Resistors are 0603.
Fearing I could not handle them, I made a minimum version of the switch
itself as a test structure in an unoccupied corner of a different
project. But soldering did take just 3 minutes, it was surprisingly
easy. Just keep the air flow low enough, or you will have trouble to
find the chips again. The thick-liquid flux helps to fix the chips in
place.
Legible part numbers on the board are hopeless at this scale. The board
was made by PCBway, there were some discussions about having solder mask
ON part of the pads, and some discussions with our German customs that
you cannot buy 10 boards for $10 or so.
The chips are the gray squares between the 2 vias on the left and the 4
huge coupling capacitors.
Cheers, Gerhard
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
and follow the instructions there.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
and follow the instructions there.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
and follow the instructions there.
On 4/25/2020 6:06 PM, Bryan _ wrote:
They make quite a few models which one are you recommending?
For soldering, use the Metcal STTC-090 tip
($27.78 from Mouser SKU 745-STTC-090)
0.25mm tip diameter, perfect for 25 mil pitch
BE SURE TO GET THE WS1 AUTO-SLEEP WORKSTAND
TO SAVE THE TIP!
For a microscope, check out "AMScope".
You can buy just what you need. I got
a completely tricked out setup including
a USB camera that goes to a third optical
port for only $600. A basic scope might
only run $200.
Scope buying advise: get a 0.5 power objective
lens so you don't have to be so close to
the workpiece. Also use somewhat lower power
eyepieces to get a bigger field of view.
If you need a lot of power once in a while,
get a 2nd pair of eyepieces to use on those occasions.
Rick N6RK