Hi Metcal’s are great soldering setups. They also are *expensive* soldering setups. I mumble and grumble each time I do a re-stock on tips. I know of several plants that tooled up on Metcal’s and then switched to something else after a few years. The issue was never performance. It always was cost. Bob > On Apr 25, 2020, at 8:38 PM, Bill Notfaded <notfaded1@gmail.com> wrote: > > I totally agree with the Metcal soldering station!!! I'll never go back to > anything else. I don't even use a scope. I bought some magnifying glasses > with 5 sets of different power lenses you wear like glasses. It has built > in led light and adjustable strap that hold it on your head off Amazon. > Works great. I can do all small surface mount stuff with them. Plus I > have my normal vision and hand eye coordination going that way. Soldering > under a scope or on a video monitor is a lesson all in itself! > > Bill > > On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 6:15 AM Gerhard Hoffmann <ghf@hoffmann-hochfrequenz.de> > wrote: > >> >> Am 25.04.20 um 13:41 schrieb John Ackermann: >>> I do have a microscope (cheap Chinese unit, maybe $400 with articulated >> arm and the works) and it does make things much easier. But as long as you >> can see the work, you can do the job. >>> >>> It's not that hard to do small pitch parts. I usually do the best I can >> soldering individual pins, knowing their will be bridges, then clean up >> with solder wick and *lots* of no-clean flux. You can never have too much >> flux. I've found a 1.6 mm chisel tip is a good all around size for SMD >> work, though I have a 0.8 mm chisel available for when things get tight. >>> >>> The hardest part is getting the first couple of pins tacked down so the >> part is square on the pads. After that it's fast. >>> >>> John >> >> I have about the same here, plus a cheap Chinese Ayoue852 hot air >> station. Exchanging the Weller for a Metcal was the biggest improvement >> after the LED ringlight for the microscope. >> >> In my quest to scrutinize the 1/f region, I have built some chopper >> amplifiers and the newest one will have GaN transistors that are nekkid >> chips with jut 4 tin bumps below. No case, just the passivated chip, 1 * >> 1 mm, EPC2038. Low channel resistance, even lower capacitance -> low >> charge injection. Resistors are 0603. >> >> Fearing I could not handle them, I made a minimum version of the switch >> itself as a test structure in an unoccupied corner of a different >> project. But soldering did take just 3 minutes, it was surprisingly >> easy. Just keep the air flow low enough, or you will have trouble to >> find the chips again. The thick-liquid flux helps to fix the chips in >> place. >> >> Legible part numbers on the board are hopeless at this scale. The board >> was made by PCBway, there were some discussions about having solder mask >> ON part of the pads, and some discussions with our German customs that >> you cannot buy 10 boards for $10 or so. >> >> The chips are the gray squares between the 2 vias on the left and the 4 >> huge coupling capacitors. >> >> Cheers, Gerhard >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> and follow the instructions there. >> > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there.

My Metcal is an MX-PS5000 that has two connections for irons. You can use both at the same time. I just love it. It's the best technology revolution in soldering ever. It doesn't use traditional resistance to heat it uses high frequency energy to heat the tip to the exact temperature and it does it in seconds. It heats and cools every time you pick it up to use it. It's cool in the magnetic base holder and it heats up by the time you pick it up and get it to the board in seconds. It then cold down really fast almost the same way. The temperature is exactly the same every time. They use them where I work to solder for space applications in factories. I'm CIS engineer but I've learned what works from watching them. Here are the Amazon magnifying glasses I use for soldering. I use the highest level thickest lenses but you don't have to: https://www.amazon.com/Dicfeos-Headband-Magnifier-Mounted-Magnifying/dp/B075WR4M99/ref=sxin_9_ac_m_rm The price can be right on both the glasses are cheap and you can get used Metcal from eBay. That's where I got mine. Also new tips are also everywhere. Everytime a company shuts and sells their stuff it ends up out there and some is new almost. Bill On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 6:07 PM Bryan _ <bpl521@outlook.com> wrote: > They make quite a few models which one are you recommending? > > -=Bryan=- > > ________________________________ > From: time-nuts <time-nuts-bounces@lists.febo.com> on behalf of Bill > Notfaded <notfaded1@gmail.com> > Sent: April 25, 2020 5:38 PM > To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement < > time-nuts@lists.febo.com> > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Vaperware Parts and pulse stretching circuits > > I totally agree with the Metcal soldering station!!! I'll never go back to > anything else. I don't even use a scope. I bought some magnifying glasses > with 5 sets of different power lenses you wear like glasses. It has built > in led light and adjustable strap that hold it on your head off Amazon. > Works great. I can do all small surface mount stuff with them. Plus I > have my normal vision and hand eye coordination going that way. Soldering > under a scope or on a video monitor is a lesson all in itself! > > Bill > > On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 6:15 AM Gerhard Hoffmann < > ghf@hoffmann-hochfrequenz.de> > wrote: > > > > > Am 25.04.20 um 13:41 schrieb John Ackermann: > > > I do have a microscope (cheap Chinese unit, maybe $400 with articulated > > arm and the works) and it does make things much easier. But as long as > you > > can see the work, you can do the job. > > > > > > It's not that hard to do small pitch parts. I usually do the best I > can > > soldering individual pins, knowing their will be bridges, then clean up > > with solder wick and *lots* of no-clean flux. You can never have too > much > > flux. I've found a 1.6 mm chisel tip is a good all around size for SMD > > work, though I have a 0.8 mm chisel available for when things get tight. > > > > > > The hardest part is getting the first couple of pins tacked down so the > > part is square on the pads. After that it's fast. > > > > > > John > > > > I have about the same here, plus a cheap Chinese Ayoue852 hot air > > station. Exchanging the Weller for a Metcal was the biggest improvement > > after the LED ringlight for the microscope. > > > > In my quest to scrutinize the 1/f region, I have built some chopper > > amplifiers and the newest one will have GaN transistors that are nekkid > > chips with jut 4 tin bumps below. No case, just the passivated chip, 1 * > > 1 mm, EPC2038. Low channel resistance, even lower capacitance -> low > > charge injection. Resistors are 0603. > > > > Fearing I could not handle them, I made a minimum version of the switch > > itself as a test structure in an unoccupied corner of a different > > project. But soldering did take just 3 minutes, it was surprisingly > > easy. Just keep the air flow low enough, or you will have trouble to > > find the chips again. The thick-liquid flux helps to fix the chips in > > place. > > > > Legible part numbers on the board are hopeless at this scale. The board > > was made by PCBway, there were some discussions about having solder mask > > ON part of the pads, and some discussions with our German customs that > > you cannot buy 10 boards for $10 or so. > > > > The chips are the gray squares between the 2 vias on the left and the 4 > > huge coupling capacitors. > > > > Cheers, Gerhard > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > > To unsubscribe, go to > > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > > and follow the instructions there. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there. >

Hi One gotcha with Metcal’s is when using a variety of solders. This may not apply in a home environment. It certainly does in industry. Different alloys have different melting temperatures. To match up with them, you change the tip on a Metcal. There are other systems that do this with the twist of a dial. How *does* this apply in the basement lab? When you see that really great deal on tips, check the temperature before you stock up on them. You do want to match things up properly. Bob > On Apr 26, 2020, at 2:29 PM, Bill Notfaded <notfaded1@gmail.com> wrote: > > My Metcal is an MX-PS5000 that has two connections for irons. You can use > both at the same time. I just love it. It's the best technology > revolution in soldering ever. It doesn't use traditional resistance to > heat it uses high frequency energy to heat the tip to the exact temperature > and it does it in seconds. It heats and cools every time you pick it up to > use it. It's cool in the magnetic base holder and it heats up by the time > you pick it up and get it to the board in seconds. It then cold down > really fast almost the same way. The temperature is exactly the same every > time. They use them where I work to solder for space applications in > factories. I'm CIS engineer but I've learned what works from watching them. > > Here are the Amazon magnifying glasses I use for soldering. I use the > highest level thickest lenses but you don't have to: > https://www.amazon.com/Dicfeos-Headband-Magnifier-Mounted-Magnifying/dp/B075WR4M99/ref=sxin_9_ac_m_rm > > The price can be right on both the glasses are cheap and you can get used > Metcal from eBay. That's where I got mine. Also new tips are also > everywhere. Everytime a company shuts and sells their stuff it ends up out > there and some is new almost. > > Bill > > > On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 6:07 PM Bryan _ <bpl521@outlook.com> wrote: > >> They make quite a few models which one are you recommending? >> >> -=Bryan=- >> >> ________________________________ >> From: time-nuts <time-nuts-bounces@lists.febo.com> on behalf of Bill >> Notfaded <notfaded1@gmail.com> >> Sent: April 25, 2020 5:38 PM >> To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement < >> time-nuts@lists.febo.com> >> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Vaperware Parts and pulse stretching circuits >> >> I totally agree with the Metcal soldering station!!! I'll never go back to >> anything else. I don't even use a scope. I bought some magnifying glasses >> with 5 sets of different power lenses you wear like glasses. It has built >> in led light and adjustable strap that hold it on your head off Amazon. >> Works great. I can do all small surface mount stuff with them. Plus I >> have my normal vision and hand eye coordination going that way. Soldering >> under a scope or on a video monitor is a lesson all in itself! >> >> Bill >> >> On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 6:15 AM Gerhard Hoffmann < >> ghf@hoffmann-hochfrequenz.de> >> wrote: >> >>> >>> Am 25.04.20 um 13:41 schrieb John Ackermann: >>>> I do have a microscope (cheap Chinese unit, maybe $400 with articulated >>> arm and the works) and it does make things much easier. But as long as >> you >>> can see the work, you can do the job. >>>> >>>> It's not that hard to do small pitch parts. I usually do the best I >> can >>> soldering individual pins, knowing their will be bridges, then clean up >>> with solder wick and *lots* of no-clean flux. You can never have too >> much >>> flux. I've found a 1.6 mm chisel tip is a good all around size for SMD >>> work, though I have a 0.8 mm chisel available for when things get tight. >>>> >>>> The hardest part is getting the first couple of pins tacked down so the >>> part is square on the pads. After that it's fast. >>>> >>>> John >>> >>> I have about the same here, plus a cheap Chinese Ayoue852 hot air >>> station. Exchanging the Weller for a Metcal was the biggest improvement >>> after the LED ringlight for the microscope. >>> >>> In my quest to scrutinize the 1/f region, I have built some chopper >>> amplifiers and the newest one will have GaN transistors that are nekkid >>> chips with jut 4 tin bumps below. No case, just the passivated chip, 1 * >>> 1 mm, EPC2038. Low channel resistance, even lower capacitance -> low >>> charge injection. Resistors are 0603. >>> >>> Fearing I could not handle them, I made a minimum version of the switch >>> itself as a test structure in an unoccupied corner of a different >>> project. But soldering did take just 3 minutes, it was surprisingly >>> easy. Just keep the air flow low enough, or you will have trouble to >>> find the chips again. The thick-liquid flux helps to fix the chips in >>> place. >>> >>> Legible part numbers on the board are hopeless at this scale. The board >>> was made by PCBway, there were some discussions about having solder mask >>> ON part of the pads, and some discussions with our German customs that >>> you cannot buy 10 boards for $10 or so. >>> >>> The chips are the gray squares between the 2 vias on the left and the 4 >>> huge coupling capacitors. >>> >>> Cheers, Gerhard >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to >>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> and follow the instructions there. >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> and follow the instructions there. >> > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there.