M
MLewis
Sat, Oct 5, 2019 10:03 PM
The bulk of my wiring experience is with residential electrical (VAC)
and audio signal cables & speaker cables, with some VDC in amplifiers.
Most of the computer cables I needed I could order, so I wasn't usually
terminating them myself.
With audio, it's pretty straight forward. A number of people figure
they'll save some money and avoid the snake-oil cable sellers and make
their own cables. So they buy the materials that others have found work
well, they'd make some cables, and report they don't sound good. The
sound simply isn't clear. Many don't seem to be able to make a quality
solder joint. When they get their friend who knows how to solder to redo
the connections, and the sound is clear. Others get steered to the
crimping connectors, but use pliers or cheap crimping tools. Again,
despite quality materials, not a clear sound. They're just not a quality
connection. So they can learn to solder properly, and be at risk of the
typical stress failures of soldered connections, or the more robust and
much easier to learn path, buy a proper quality crimping tool and learn
to use it. Great connection and repeatable.
Then there's the soldered crimp. It's astounding the number of times
such a connection fails and the wire: moves back and forth, turns in
place or pulls out. The heat from soldering expands the crimp, lowering
its crimping pressure, for a poor crimp connection, but it's still tight
enough while heated that the solder can't wick in. You end up with the
combination of a poor crimp connection and a poor solder connection. I'd
guess that with a poor enough crimping, there could be enough space to
wick solder in...
An engineer told me what was up, and I cut open some connections that
seemed solid to check. In each case there was a gob of solder at the
end, but only some trace solder within the first part of the strands,
with minimal contact between the wire and the crimp. I've cut one open a
number of times over the years since, to show such to people. (Note:
NASA will not accept crimped connections of tinned stranded or tinned
solid wire. I've no idea why, but I figure it's a given that they know a
lot more about terminations and connections than I ever will.)
So my first-hand personal experience is that I've seen dozens upon
dozens of examples over four+ decades where an audio cable terminated
with soldered crimps that did not sound clear, but replacing the
terminations with properly soldered or properly crimped connections and
the sound was then clear. Not a subtle difference, but at minimum a
strong improvement, and usually a night and day difference. Now for
quality consistency, I only use crimps for audio connections and choose
connectors accordingly.
I've heard a lot of speculation over the years as to why this difference
in clarity, but nothing that seems completely credible. The closest to
credible speculation I've heard is:
- a poor connection results in multiple signal paths resulting in a
sightly overlapped signal so the signal is no longer clear, or
- a poor connection has multiple connections and combined with eddy
currents in the connector you can get tiny RC paths instead of a single
long connection, so you've got multiple re-injections of a delayed
signal that smooths tiny changes in voltage, which is your signal.
Causation is clear. The explanation? No idea.
I've heard people say that all this analogue cable stuff doesn't matter
for digital signals because it's digital. Except that if one reads the
specs, the "digital" signal is really an digitally encoded analogue
signal. Back in the main-frame era, a number of times I was able to
correct throughput degradation or outright failure by addressing cable
issues (poor connections, shielding grounding, co-located cables of
identical length so they're sometimes surprisingly effective as
sending/receiving antennas, etc.) that techs thought would only apply in
analogue signals.
So where someone is transferring a timing signal down a cable, depending
on the frequency a quality termination/connection may be important, not
only to the longevity of the cable, but to the quality of the signal,
hence the ease, speed or consistency with which it drives and triggers
what is reading it.
And for power connections, you don't want to hope you detect the signs
of a failing loose connection due to heat, arc smells, etc. (like the
mushroom-cap screw heads on terminations for containment & detection),
before it outright fails, nor a conductor that comes free if the
wire-to-solder connection breaks. The welded connection is new to me,
but sounds like it could befit in some applications. If you've enough
power and the connection is not tight, I have seem some conductors weld
themselves to a terminal, often with a thin connection; but usually it's
material gets blown away and the conductor is now loose. Lithium battery
packs can deliver some surprising current.
So again, I don't think doing a proper (or poor) crimp connection, then
expanding it with heat to try and wick some solder into gaps that would
have been reduced by crimping and then with heating, is a very good way
to go, along with taking on the risk of the stress failures of soldered
wires.
On 05/10/2019 2:10 PM, Wes wrote:
On 10/4/2019 12:17 PM, MLewis wrote:
With audio signals, a soldered crimp is one of the worst possible
connections.
The bulk of my wiring experience is with residential electrical (VAC)
and audio signal cables & speaker cables, with some VDC in amplifiers.
Most of the computer cables I needed I could order, so I wasn't usually
terminating them myself.
With audio, it's pretty straight forward. A number of people figure
they'll save some money and avoid the snake-oil cable sellers and make
their own cables. So they buy the materials that others have found work
well, they'd make some cables, and report they don't sound good. The
sound simply isn't clear. Many don't seem to be able to make a quality
solder joint. When they get their friend who knows how to solder to redo
the connections, and the sound is clear. Others get steered to the
crimping connectors, but use pliers or cheap crimping tools. Again,
despite quality materials, not a clear sound. They're just not a quality
connection. So they can learn to solder properly, and be at risk of the
typical stress failures of soldered connections, or the more robust and
much easier to learn path, buy a proper quality crimping tool and learn
to use it. Great connection and repeatable.
Then there's the soldered crimp. It's astounding the number of times
such a connection fails and the wire: moves back and forth, turns in
place or pulls out. The heat from soldering expands the crimp, lowering
its crimping pressure, for a poor crimp connection, but it's still tight
enough while heated that the solder can't wick in. You end up with the
combination of a poor crimp connection and a poor solder connection. I'd
guess that with a poor enough crimping, there could be enough space to
wick solder in...
An engineer told me what was up, and I cut open some connections that
seemed solid to check. In each case there was a gob of solder at the
end, but only some trace solder within the first part of the strands,
with minimal contact between the wire and the crimp. I've cut one open a
number of times over the years since, to show such to people. (Note:
NASA will not accept crimped connections of tinned stranded or tinned
solid wire. I've no idea why, but I figure it's a given that they know a
lot more about terminations and connections than I ever will.)
So my first-hand personal experience is that I've seen dozens upon
dozens of examples over four+ decades where an audio cable terminated
with soldered crimps that did not sound clear, but replacing the
terminations with properly soldered or properly crimped connections and
the sound was then clear. Not a subtle difference, but at minimum a
strong improvement, and usually a night and day difference. Now for
quality consistency, I only use crimps for audio connections and choose
connectors accordingly.
I've heard a lot of speculation over the years as to why this difference
in clarity, but nothing that seems completely credible. The closest to
credible speculation I've heard is:
- a poor connection results in multiple signal paths resulting in a
sightly overlapped signal so the signal is no longer clear, or
- a poor connection has multiple connections and combined with eddy
currents in the connector you can get tiny RC paths instead of a single
long connection, so you've got multiple re-injections of a delayed
signal that smooths tiny changes in voltage, which is your signal.
Causation is clear. The explanation? No idea.
I've heard people say that all this analogue cable stuff doesn't matter
for digital signals because it's digital. Except that if one reads the
specs, the "digital" signal is really an digitally encoded analogue
signal. Back in the main-frame era, a number of times I was able to
correct throughput degradation or outright failure by addressing cable
issues (poor connections, shielding grounding, co-located cables of
identical length so they're sometimes surprisingly effective as
sending/receiving antennas, etc.) that techs thought would only apply in
analogue signals.
So where someone is transferring a timing signal down a cable, depending
on the frequency a quality termination/connection may be important, not
only to the longevity of the cable, but to the quality of the signal,
hence the ease, speed or consistency with which it drives and triggers
what is reading it.
And for power connections, you don't want to hope you detect the signs
of a failing loose connection due to heat, arc smells, etc. (like the
mushroom-cap screw heads on terminations for containment & detection),
before it outright fails, nor a conductor that comes free if the
wire-to-solder connection breaks. The welded connection is new to me,
but sounds like it could befit in some applications. If you've enough
power and the connection is not tight, I have seem some conductors weld
themselves to a terminal, often with a thin connection; but usually it's
material gets blown away and the conductor is now loose. Lithium battery
packs can deliver some surprising current.
So again, I don't think doing a proper (or poor) crimp connection, then
expanding it with heat to try and wick some solder into gaps that would
have been reduced by crimping and then with heating, is a very good way
to go, along with taking on the risk of the stress failures of soldered
wires.
On 05/10/2019 2:10 PM, Wes wrote:
> On 10/4/2019 12:17 PM, MLewis wrote:
>> With audio signals, a soldered crimp is one of the worst possible
>> connections.
>
> Please explain.
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> and follow the instructions there.
MS
Mark Spencer
Sat, Oct 5, 2019 11:09 PM
As the moderators seem ok with this topic.
I suspect my prior experience with power poles would have been better if I had been able to obtain some of the products contained in the Anderson Power Products catalogue (ie. 45 amp contacts designed for high strand count wire, low or high mating force contacts etc.)
If anyone knows of a hobby friendly distributor that will ship small quantities of such components to Canada I would be happy to hear about that off list. Some of my amateur radio acquaintances think I am perhaps a bit to picky about worrying about these types of details, but in my view these types of details may be important in some applications. To be transparent I didn't put a huge amount of effort into trying to source these types of components, so this may be "old news" to some.
The catalogue also lists retention clips that may be of interest to some (based on some prior comments about using cable ties to prevent the connectors from separating.) I don't have any experience with the retention clips, but the catalogue description seems promising.
I'm hesitant to post the URL to the catalogue but it is easy to find via Google.
Mark Spencer
mark@alignedsolutions.com
604 762 4099
As the moderators seem ok with this topic.
I suspect my prior experience with power poles would have been better if I had been able to obtain some of the products contained in the Anderson Power Products catalogue (ie. 45 amp contacts designed for high strand count wire, low or high mating force contacts etc.)
If anyone knows of a hobby friendly distributor that will ship small quantities of such components to Canada I would be happy to hear about that off list. Some of my amateur radio acquaintances think I am perhaps a bit to picky about worrying about these types of details, but in my view these types of details may be important in some applications. To be transparent I didn't put a huge amount of effort into trying to source these types of components, so this may be "old news" to some.
The catalogue also lists retention clips that may be of interest to some (based on some prior comments about using cable ties to prevent the connectors from separating.) I don't have any experience with the retention clips, but the catalogue description seems promising.
I'm hesitant to post the URL to the catalogue but it is easy to find via Google.
Mark Spencer
mark@alignedsolutions.com
604 762 4099
SM
Scott McGrath
Sun, Oct 6, 2019 12:37 AM
As to crimping tools it’s important to use the correct power pole tooling as the alignment of the crimp is critical to contact insertion.
Ive found the West Mountain Radio tool to be good for the smaller powerpoles I’ve got the Anderson crimper for the 75 amp powerpoles.
Anything larger - i use a local assembly house which has hydraulic crimpers for Anderson connectors.
On Oct 5, 2019, at 7:24 AM, Adrian Godwin artgodwin@gmail.com wrote:
I used powerpoles on a project and tried to use a crimping tool I had to
hand. Amphenol, I think. It appeared to be the right size but ended up
bending the terminal badly where it changes from circular to flat. The
results were unreliable and I ended up soldering (though adding sleeving,
which together with the natural bend-restriction on the shell has mostly
avoided stiffening the wire where it's most vulnerable).
I know some crimp terminal are very fussy about the tool used but it's
usually the miniature ones like JST. Does the powerpole terminal need a
powerpole-specific crimp tool ? I note that the West Mountain tool seems to
be branded by themselves rather than Anderson, but I can't tell if it's
generic or made to their specs.
On Sat, Oct 5, 2019 at 2:00 AM John Ackermann N8UR jra@febo.com wrote:
Not a perfect solution, but for semi-permanent connections you can run a
small tie-wrap lengthwise so the ends pass through the space between where
the wires on each end split and the body. Cinch it tight and the
connectors won't come apart without cutting the tie wrap.
On Oct 4, 2019, 7:04 PM, at 7:04 PM, Taka Kamiya via time-nuts <
time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote:
I used to use power pole, too but they don't lock firmly enough for my
liking. So I don't use them anymore. It would be perfect if there is
an option to add positive locking mechanism of some kind.
(Mr.) Taka Kamiya
KB4EMF / ex JF2DKG
On Friday, October 4, 2019, 4:06:50 PM EDT, Didier Juges
shalimr9@gmail.com wrote:
That's what I do too. I do use Power Pole for my ham stuff that draws
high
current but for all the <2A 12V stuff the 5.1mm barrel connector with
positive center is hard to beat because I have so many power sources
and
equipment already wired for it. I am not ready to rewire all the off
the
shelf equipment that came with one of those.
Power Pole are convenient for batteries though because you can use the
connector to charge the battery or use it as a source.
Didier KO4BB
On Fri, Oct 4, 2019, 2:01 PM Taka Kamiya via time-nuts <
time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote:
Mine is very simple....
USB connector for 5VBarrel connector 5.5/2.1mm for 12VTerminal strip
24V
None of them are high power devices.
(Mr.) Taka Kamiya
KB4EMF / ex JF2DKG
On Friday, October 4, 2019, 2:03:55 AM EDT, Bill Dailey <
docdailey@gmail.com> wrote:
Setting up a new workbench and am wondering what wisdom people can
offer. I am powering numerous synthesizers (5v), small receivers
Upconverters (5v), larger receivers (12v), fury Gpsdo’s.. etc.
something neat and not real expensive for distributing 5v and 12v. I
hoping for a long COTS pcb with fusing and maybe holes for plugs.
Any insights?
Bill
Bill Dailey
Negativity always wins the short game. But positivity wins the long
As to crimping tools it’s important to use the correct power pole tooling as the alignment of the crimp is critical to contact insertion.
Ive found the West Mountain Radio tool to be good for the smaller powerpoles I’ve got the Anderson crimper for the 75 amp powerpoles.
Anything larger - i use a local assembly house which has hydraulic crimpers for Anderson connectors.
On Oct 5, 2019, at 7:24 AM, Adrian Godwin <artgodwin@gmail.com> wrote:
I used powerpoles on a project and tried to use a crimping tool I had to
hand. Amphenol, I think. It appeared to be the right size but ended up
bending the terminal badly where it changes from circular to flat. The
results were unreliable and I ended up soldering (though adding sleeving,
which together with the natural bend-restriction on the shell has mostly
avoided stiffening the wire where it's most vulnerable).
I know some crimp terminal are very fussy about the tool used but it's
usually the miniature ones like JST. Does the powerpole terminal need a
powerpole-specific crimp tool ? I note that the West Mountain tool seems to
be branded by themselves rather than Anderson, but I can't tell if it's
generic or made to their specs.
> On Sat, Oct 5, 2019 at 2:00 AM John Ackermann N8UR <jra@febo.com> wrote:
>
> Not a perfect solution, but for semi-permanent connections you can run a
> small tie-wrap lengthwise so the ends pass through the space between where
> the wires on each end split and the body. Cinch it tight and the
> connectors won't come apart without cutting the tie wrap.
>
> On Oct 4, 2019, 7:04 PM, at 7:04 PM, Taka Kamiya via time-nuts <
> time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote:
>> I used to use power pole, too but they don't lock firmly enough for my
>> liking. So I don't use them anymore. It would be perfect if there is
>> an option to add positive locking mechanism of some kind.
>>
>> ---------------------------------------
>> (Mr.) Taka Kamiya
>> KB4EMF / ex JF2DKG
>>
>>
>> On Friday, October 4, 2019, 4:06:50 PM EDT, Didier Juges
>> <shalimr9@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> That's what I do too. I do use Power Pole for my ham stuff that draws
>> high
>> current but for all the <2A 12V stuff the 5.1mm barrel connector with
>> positive center is hard to beat because I have so many power sources
>> and
>> equipment already wired for it. I am not ready to rewire all the off
>> the
>> shelf equipment that came with one of those.
>>
>> Power Pole are convenient for batteries though because you can use the
>> connector to charge the battery or use it as a source.
>>
>> Didier KO4BB
>>
>> On Fri, Oct 4, 2019, 2:01 PM Taka Kamiya via time-nuts <
>> time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Mine is very simple....
>>> USB connector for 5VBarrel connector 5.5/2.1mm for 12VTerminal strip
>> for
>>> 24V
>>> None of them are high power devices.
>>>
>>> ---------------------------------------
>>> (Mr.) Taka Kamiya
>>> KB4EMF / ex JF2DKG
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, October 4, 2019, 2:03:55 AM EDT, Bill Dailey <
>>> docdailey@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Setting up a new workbench and am wondering what wisdom people can
>>> offer. I am powering numerous synthesizers (5v), small receivers
>> (5v),
>>> Upconverters (5v), larger receivers (12v), fury Gpsdo’s.. etc.
>> anyone use
>>> something neat and not real expensive for distributing 5v and 12v. I
>> am
>>> hoping for a long COTS pcb with fusing and maybe holes for plugs.
>>>
>>> Any insights?
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> Bill Dailey
>>>
>>> Negativity always wins the short game. But positivity wins the long
>> game.
>>> - Gary Vaynerchuk
>>>
>>> Don’t be easy to understand,
>>> Be impossible to misunderstand
>>> - Steve Sims
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> and follow the instructions there.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> and follow the instructions there.
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> and follow the instructions there.
>
_______________________________________________
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
and follow the instructions there.
JN
Jeremy Nichols
Sun, Oct 6, 2019 1:11 AM
For a connection that remains undisturbed for 20 to 30 years, could you get
by with no connector at all?
On Sat, Oct 5, 2019 at 6:03 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
The biggest “issue” I’ve seen with Power Poles is that after being mated
for 20 to 30
years they start to loose the spring force that holds them together.
Bob
On Oct 5, 2019, at 11:45 AM, John Ackermann N8UR jra@febo.com wrote:
One thing the PowerPole tool does is provide a little cavity for the
blade to go, so it keeps the depth of the crimp and also the angle where
they should be.
On 10/5/19 7:24 AM, Adrian Godwin wrote:
I used powerpoles on a project and tried to use a crimping tool I had to
hand. Amphenol, I think. It appeared to be the right size but ended up
bending the terminal badly where it changes from circular to flat. The
results were unreliable and I ended up soldering (though adding
which together with the natural bend-restriction on the shell has mostly
avoided stiffening the wire where it's most vulnerable).
I know some crimp terminal are very fussy about the tool used but it's
usually the miniature ones like JST. Does the powerpole terminal need a
powerpole-specific crimp tool ? I note that the West Mountain tool
be branded by themselves rather than Anderson, but I can't tell if it's
generic or made to their specs.
On Sat, Oct 5, 2019 at 2:00 AM John Ackermann N8UR jra@febo.com
Not a perfect solution, but for semi-permanent connections you can run
small tie-wrap lengthwise so the ends pass through the space between
the wires on each end split and the body. Cinch it tight and the
connectors won't come apart without cutting the tie wrap.
On Oct 4, 2019, 7:04 PM, at 7:04 PM, Taka Kamiya via time-nuts <
time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote:
I used to use power pole, too but they don't lock firmly enough for my
liking. So I don't use them anymore. It would be perfect if there is
an option to add positive locking mechanism of some kind.
(Mr.) Taka Kamiya
KB4EMF / ex JF2DKG
On Friday, October 4, 2019, 4:06:50 PM EDT, Didier Juges
shalimr9@gmail.com wrote:
That's what I do too. I do use Power Pole for my ham stuff that draws
high
current but for all the <2A 12V stuff the 5.1mm barrel connector with
positive center is hard to beat because I have so many power sources
and
equipment already wired for it. I am not ready to rewire all the off
the
shelf equipment that came with one of those.
Power Pole are convenient for batteries though because you can use the
connector to charge the battery or use it as a source.
Didier KO4BB
On Fri, Oct 4, 2019, 2:01 PM Taka Kamiya via time-nuts <
time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote:
Mine is very simple....
USB connector for 5VBarrel connector 5.5/2.1mm for 12VTerminal strip
24V
None of them are high power devices.
(Mr.) Taka Kamiya
KB4EMF / ex JF2DKG
On Friday, October 4, 2019, 2:03:55 AM EDT, Bill Dailey <
docdailey@gmail.com> wrote:
Setting up a new workbench and am wondering what wisdom people can
offer. I am powering numerous synthesizers (5v), small receivers
Upconverters (5v), larger receivers (12v), fury Gpsdo’s.. etc.
something neat and not real expensive for distributing 5v and 12v. I
hoping for a long COTS pcb with fusing and maybe holes for plugs.
Any insights?
Bill
Bill Dailey
Negativity always wins the short game. But positivity wins the long
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
--
Jeremy Nichols
Sent from my iPad 6.
For a connection that remains undisturbed for 20 to 30 years, could you get
by with no connector at all?
On Sat, Oct 5, 2019 at 6:03 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> Hi
>
> The biggest “issue” I’ve seen with Power Poles is that after being mated
> for 20 to 30
> years they start to loose the spring force that holds them together.
>
> Bob
>
> > On Oct 5, 2019, at 11:45 AM, John Ackermann N8UR <jra@febo.com> wrote:
> >
> > One thing the PowerPole tool does is provide a little cavity for the
> > blade to go, so it keeps the depth of the crimp and also the angle where
> > they should be.
> >
> > On 10/5/19 7:24 AM, Adrian Godwin wrote:
> >> I used powerpoles on a project and tried to use a crimping tool I had to
> >> hand. Amphenol, I think. It appeared to be the right size but ended up
> >> bending the terminal badly where it changes from circular to flat. The
> >> results were unreliable and I ended up soldering (though adding
> sleeving,
> >> which together with the natural bend-restriction on the shell has mostly
> >> avoided stiffening the wire where it's most vulnerable).
> >>
> >> I know some crimp terminal are very fussy about the tool used but it's
> >> usually the miniature ones like JST. Does the powerpole terminal need a
> >> powerpole-specific crimp tool ? I note that the West Mountain tool
> seems to
> >> be branded by themselves rather than Anderson, but I can't tell if it's
> >> generic or made to their specs.
> >>
> >> On Sat, Oct 5, 2019 at 2:00 AM John Ackermann N8UR <jra@febo.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Not a perfect solution, but for semi-permanent connections you can run
> a
> >>> small tie-wrap lengthwise so the ends pass through the space between
> where
> >>> the wires on each end split and the body. Cinch it tight and the
> >>> connectors won't come apart without cutting the tie wrap.
> >>>
> >>> On Oct 4, 2019, 7:04 PM, at 7:04 PM, Taka Kamiya via time-nuts <
> >>> time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote:
> >>>> I used to use power pole, too but they don't lock firmly enough for my
> >>>> liking. So I don't use them anymore. It would be perfect if there is
> >>>> an option to add positive locking mechanism of some kind.
> >>>>
> >>>> ---------------------------------------
> >>>> (Mr.) Taka Kamiya
> >>>> KB4EMF / ex JF2DKG
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> On Friday, October 4, 2019, 4:06:50 PM EDT, Didier Juges
> >>>> <shalimr9@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> That's what I do too. I do use Power Pole for my ham stuff that draws
> >>>> high
> >>>> current but for all the <2A 12V stuff the 5.1mm barrel connector with
> >>>> positive center is hard to beat because I have so many power sources
> >>>> and
> >>>> equipment already wired for it. I am not ready to rewire all the off
> >>>> the
> >>>> shelf equipment that came with one of those.
> >>>>
> >>>> Power Pole are convenient for batteries though because you can use the
> >>>> connector to charge the battery or use it as a source.
> >>>>
> >>>> Didier KO4BB
> >>>>
> >>>> On Fri, Oct 4, 2019, 2:01 PM Taka Kamiya via time-nuts <
> >>>> time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Mine is very simple....
> >>>>> USB connector for 5VBarrel connector 5.5/2.1mm for 12VTerminal strip
> >>>> for
> >>>>> 24V
> >>>>> None of them are high power devices.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> ---------------------------------------
> >>>>> (Mr.) Taka Kamiya
> >>>>> KB4EMF / ex JF2DKG
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> On Friday, October 4, 2019, 2:03:55 AM EDT, Bill Dailey <
> >>>>> docdailey@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Setting up a new workbench and am wondering what wisdom people can
> >>>>> offer. I am powering numerous synthesizers (5v), small receivers
> >>>> (5v),
> >>>>> Upconverters (5v), larger receivers (12v), fury Gpsdo’s.. etc.
> >>>> anyone use
> >>>>> something neat and not real expensive for distributing 5v and 12v. I
> >>>> am
> >>>>> hoping for a long COTS pcb with fusing and maybe holes for plugs.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Any insights?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Bill
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Bill Dailey
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Negativity always wins the short game. But positivity wins the long
> >>>> game.
> >>>>> - Gary Vaynerchuk
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Don’t be easy to understand,
> >>>>> Be impossible to misunderstand
> >>>>> - Steve Sims
> >>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>>
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >> To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >> and follow the instructions there.
> >>
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> > To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> > and follow the instructions there.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> and follow the instructions there.
>
--
Jeremy Nichols
Sent from my iPad 6.
LM
Larry McDavid
Sun, Oct 6, 2019 3:16 AM
I've used Power-Pole connectors for many years successfully and I've
always crimped them with appropriate Power-Pole crimp tools. I never,
never solder crimped connections! Heating a crimped connection to
soldering temperature will relax the crimp force in the crimp zone and,
if properly crimped, there is no gap among the wire strands for solder
to flow into. The result is always a loss of connection quality.
Stranded wire can be tinned or coated with solder by the wire
manufacturer and crimped successfully so long as the wire is
"non-fused-tin-coated." But, much stranded tinned wire is fused to
keep the strands together after removing the insulation; this type of
stranded wire should not be crimped. Much MIL Spec wire is silver
coated, inherently non-fused and crimps well.
Professionally (in both aerospace and high-rel automotive air bag
applications), I've had the "crimp zone" of very many crimped connector
contacts metallurgically mounted, cross-sectioned and examined
microscopically after polishing and etching to reveal the individual
strands even in the crimp zone. This is the ultimate method to "qualify"
a crimped connection. A "gas-tight" crimp shows under microscopic
examination no air gaps within the crimp zone--the crimped wire bundle
has gone solid and is "gas tight."
"Crimp pull force" is another, production level, crimp quality control
method but the proper method requires making numerous crimps at various
"crimp heights" (how reduced in dimension is the height of the crimp
zone) and pull force testing the resultant crimps. The requires crimping
by a machine or qualified hand crimp tool that is adjustable. The pull
force values are plotted against crimp height and the shape of the curve
examined. A crimp height resulting in a pull force just as the pull
force begins to decrease after reaching a peak value is selected. A
"looser" crimp is not "gas tight" and a "tighter" crimp reduces the
cross-section area of the wire bundle enough to weaken the crimped
connection. Crimped connections have to be crimped within a narrow zone
of compression and only the appropriate crimp tool, appropriately
calibrated, can provide this. Forget about all types of "crimp pliers;"
these are worthless tools.
Larry McDavid
40 years experience in electronic packaging and formerly engineering
manager for a well-know connector manufacturer.
On 10/5/2019 3:03 PM, MLewis wrote:
The bulk of my wiring experience is with residential electrical (VAC)
and audio signal cables & speaker cables, with some VDC in amplifiers.
Most of the computer cables I needed I could order, so I wasn't usually
terminating them myself.
With audio, it's pretty straight forward. A number of people figure
they'll save some money and avoid the snake-oil cable sellers and make
their own cables. So they buy the materials that others have found work
well, they'd make some cables, and report they don't sound good. The
sound simply isn't clear. Many don't seem to be able to make a quality
solder joint. When they get their friend who knows how to solder to redo
the connections, and the sound is clear. Others get steered to the
crimping connectors, but use pliers or cheap crimping tools. Again,
despite quality materials, not a clear sound. They're just not a quality
connection. So they can learn to solder properly, and be at risk of the
typical stress failures of soldered connections, or the more robust and
much easier to learn path, buy a proper quality crimping tool and learn
to use it. Great connection and repeatable.
Then there's the soldered crimp. It's astounding the number of times
such a connection fails and the wire: moves back and forth, turns in
place or pulls out. The heat from soldering expands the crimp, lowering
its crimping pressure, for a poor crimp connection, but it's still tight
enough while heated that the solder can't wick in. You end up with the
combination of a poor crimp connection and a poor solder connection. I'd
guess that with a poor enough crimping, there could be enough space to
wick solder in...
An engineer told me what was up, and I cut open some connections that
seemed solid to check. In each case there was a gob of solder at the
end, but only some trace solder within the first part of the strands,
with minimal contact between the wire and the crimp. I've cut one open a
number of times over the years since, to show such to people. (Note:
NASA will not accept crimped connections of tinned stranded or tinned
solid wire. I've no idea why, but I figure it's a given that they know a
lot more about terminations and connections than I ever will.)
So my first-hand personal experience is that I've seen dozens upon
dozens of examples over four+ decades where an audio cable terminated
with soldered crimps that did not sound clear, but replacing the
terminations with properly soldered or properly crimped connections and
the sound was then clear. Not a subtle difference, but at minimum a
strong improvement, and usually a night and day difference. Now for
quality consistency, I only use crimps for audio connections and choose
connectors accordingly.
I've heard a lot of speculation over the years as to why this difference
in clarity, but nothing that seems completely credible. The closest to
credible speculation I've heard is:
- a poor connection results in multiple signal paths resulting in a
sightly overlapped signal so the signal is no longer clear, or
- a poor connection has multiple connections and combined with eddy
currents in the connector you can get tiny RC paths instead of a single
long connection, so you've got multiple re-injections of a delayed
signal that smooths tiny changes in voltage, which is your signal.
Causation is clear. The explanation? No idea.
I've heard people say that all this analogue cable stuff doesn't matter
for digital signals because it's digital. Except that if one reads the
specs, the "digital" signal is really an digitally encoded analogue
signal. Back in the main-frame era, a number of times I was able to
correct throughput degradation or outright failure by addressing cable
issues (poor connections, shielding grounding, co-located cables of
identical length so they're sometimes surprisingly effective as
sending/receiving antennas, etc.) that techs thought would only apply in
analogue signals.
So where someone is transferring a timing signal down a cable, depending
on the frequency a quality termination/connection may be important, not
only to the longevity of the cable, but to the quality of the signal,
hence the ease, speed or consistency with which it drives and triggers
what is reading it.
And for power connections, you don't want to hope you detect the signs
of a failing loose connection due to heat, arc smells, etc. (like the
mushroom-cap screw heads on terminations for containment & detection),
before it outright fails, nor a conductor that comes free if the
wire-to-solder connection breaks. The welded connection is new to me,
but sounds like it could befit in some applications. If you've enough
power and the connection is not tight, I have seem some conductors weld
themselves to a terminal, often with a thin connection; but usually it's
material gets blown away and the conductor is now loose. Lithium battery
packs can deliver some surprising current.
So again, I don't think doing a proper (or poor) crimp connection, then
expanding it with heat to try and wick some solder into gaps that would
have been reduced by crimping and then with heating, is a very good way
to go, along with taking on the risk of the stress failures of soldered
wires.
On 05/10/2019 2:10 PM, Wes wrote:
On 10/4/2019 12:17 PM, MLewis wrote:
With audio signals, a soldered crimp is one of the worst possible
connections.
--
Best wishes,
Larry McDavid W6FUB
Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland)
I've used Power-Pole connectors for many years successfully and I've
always crimped them with appropriate Power-Pole crimp tools. I never,
never solder crimped connections! Heating a crimped connection to
soldering temperature will relax the crimp force in the crimp zone and,
if properly crimped, there is no gap among the wire strands for solder
to flow into. The result is always a loss of connection quality.
Stranded wire can be tinned or coated with solder by the wire
manufacturer and crimped successfully so long as the wire is
"non-fused-tin-coated." But, much stranded tinned wire *is* fused to
keep the strands together after removing the insulation; this type of
stranded wire should not be crimped. Much MIL Spec wire is silver
coated, inherently non-fused and crimps well.
Professionally (in both aerospace and high-rel automotive air bag
applications), I've had the "crimp zone" of very many crimped connector
contacts metallurgically mounted, cross-sectioned and examined
microscopically after polishing and etching to reveal the individual
strands even in the crimp zone. This is the ultimate method to "qualify"
a crimped connection. A "gas-tight" crimp shows under microscopic
examination no air gaps within the crimp zone--the crimped wire bundle
has gone solid and is "gas tight."
"Crimp pull force" is another, production level, crimp quality control
method but the proper method requires making numerous crimps at various
"crimp heights" (how reduced in dimension is the height of the crimp
zone) and pull force testing the resultant crimps. The requires crimping
by a machine or qualified hand crimp tool that is adjustable. The pull
force values are plotted against crimp height and the shape of the curve
examined. A crimp height resulting in a pull force just as the pull
force begins to *decrease* after reaching a peak value is selected. A
"looser" crimp is not "gas tight" and a "tighter" crimp reduces the
cross-section area of the wire bundle enough to weaken the crimped
connection. Crimped connections have to be crimped within a narrow zone
of compression and only the appropriate crimp tool, appropriately
calibrated, can provide this. Forget about all types of "crimp pliers;"
these are worthless tools.
Larry McDavid
40 years experience in electronic packaging and formerly engineering
manager for a well-know connector manufacturer.
On 10/5/2019 3:03 PM, MLewis wrote:
> The bulk of my wiring experience is with residential electrical (VAC)
> and audio signal cables & speaker cables, with some VDC in amplifiers.
> Most of the computer cables I needed I could order, so I wasn't usually
> terminating them myself.
>
> With audio, it's pretty straight forward. A number of people figure
> they'll save some money and avoid the snake-oil cable sellers and make
> their own cables. So they buy the materials that others have found work
> well, they'd make some cables, and report they don't sound good. The
> sound simply isn't clear. Many don't seem to be able to make a quality
> solder joint. When they get their friend who knows how to solder to redo
> the connections, and the sound is clear. Others get steered to the
> crimping connectors, but use pliers or cheap crimping tools. Again,
> despite quality materials, not a clear sound. They're just not a quality
> connection. So they can learn to solder properly, and be at risk of the
> typical stress failures of soldered connections, or the more robust and
> much easier to learn path, buy a proper quality crimping tool and learn
> to use it. Great connection and repeatable.
>
> Then there's the soldered crimp. It's astounding the number of times
> such a connection fails and the wire: moves back and forth, turns in
> place or pulls out. The heat from soldering expands the crimp, lowering
> its crimping pressure, for a poor crimp connection, but it's still tight
> enough while heated that the solder can't wick in. You end up with the
> combination of a poor crimp connection and a poor solder connection. I'd
> guess that with a poor enough crimping, there could be enough space to
> wick solder in...
>
> An engineer told me what was up, and I cut open some connections that
> seemed solid to check. In each case there was a gob of solder at the
> end, but only some trace solder within the first part of the strands,
> with minimal contact between the wire and the crimp. I've cut one open a
> number of times over the years since, to show such to people. (Note:
> NASA will not accept crimped connections of tinned stranded or tinned
> solid wire. I've no idea why, but I figure it's a given that they know a
> lot more about terminations and connections than I ever will.)
>
> So my first-hand personal experience is that I've seen dozens upon
> dozens of examples over four+ decades where an audio cable terminated
> with soldered crimps that did not sound clear, but replacing the
> terminations with properly soldered or properly crimped connections and
> the sound was then clear. Not a subtle difference, but at minimum a
> strong improvement, and usually a night and day difference. Now for
> quality consistency, I only use crimps for audio connections and choose
> connectors accordingly.
>
> I've heard a lot of speculation over the years as to why this difference
> in clarity, but nothing that seems completely credible. The closest to
> credible speculation I've heard is:
> - a poor connection results in multiple signal paths resulting in a
> sightly overlapped signal so the signal is no longer clear, or
> - a poor connection has multiple connections and combined with eddy
> currents in the connector you can get tiny RC paths instead of a single
> long connection, so you've got multiple re-injections of a delayed
> signal that smooths tiny changes in voltage, which is your signal.
> Causation is clear. The explanation? No idea.
>
> I've heard people say that all this analogue cable stuff doesn't matter
> for digital signals because it's digital. Except that if one reads the
> specs, the "digital" signal is really an digitally encoded analogue
> signal. Back in the main-frame era, a number of times I was able to
> correct throughput degradation or outright failure by addressing cable
> issues (poor connections, shielding grounding, co-located cables of
> identical length so they're sometimes surprisingly effective as
> sending/receiving antennas, etc.) that techs thought would only apply in
> analogue signals.
>
> So where someone is transferring a timing signal down a cable, depending
> on the frequency a quality termination/connection may be important, not
> only to the longevity of the cable, but to the quality of the signal,
> hence the ease, speed or consistency with which it drives and triggers
> what is reading it.
>
> And for power connections, you don't want to hope you detect the signs
> of a failing loose connection due to heat, arc smells, etc. (like the
> mushroom-cap screw heads on terminations for containment & detection),
> before it outright fails, nor a conductor that comes free if the
> wire-to-solder connection breaks. The welded connection is new to me,
> but sounds like it could befit in some applications. If you've enough
> power and the connection is not tight, I have seem some conductors weld
> themselves to a terminal, often with a thin connection; but usually it's
> material gets blown away and the conductor is now loose. Lithium battery
> packs can deliver some surprising current.
>
> So again, I don't think doing a proper (or poor) crimp connection, then
> expanding it with heat to try and wick some solder into gaps that would
> have been reduced by crimping and then with heating, is a very good way
> to go, along with taking on the risk of the stress failures of soldered
> wires.
>
>
> On 05/10/2019 2:10 PM, Wes wrote:
>> On 10/4/2019 12:17 PM, MLewis wrote:
>>> With audio signals, a soldered crimp is one of the worst possible
>>> connections.
>>
>> Please explain.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> and follow the instructions there.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> and follow the instructions there.
>
--
Best wishes,
Larry McDavid W6FUB
Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland)
BB
Bill Beam
Sun, Oct 6, 2019 7:35 AM
On Sat, 5 Oct 2019 18:03:33 -0400, MLewis wrote:
Snip
An engineer told me what was up, and I cut open some connections that
seemed solid to check. In each case there was a gob of solder at the
end, but only some trace solder within the first part of the strands,
with minimal contact between the wire and the crimp. I've cut one open a
number of times over the years since, to show such to people.
The engineer failed to explain why this is an electrical problem.
(Note:
NASA will not accept crimped connections of tinned stranded or tinned
solid wire. I've no idea why, but I figure it's a given that they know a
lot more about terminations and connections than I ever will.)
I know why.... They don't like diodes/rectifiers in connections.
Crimped connections can produce point contact junctions thru the
tinning layer resulting in rectification.
Snip
I've heard a lot of speculation over the years as to why this difference
in clarity, but nothing that seems completely credible. The closest to
credible speculation I've heard is:
- a poor connection results in multiple signal paths resulting in a
sightly overlapped signal so the signal is no longer clear, or
To create a multipath error of 1 electrical degree at 20KHz (inaudible) requires a path
error of about 30m. Not going to happen in a cm connector.
- a poor connection has multiple connections and combined with eddy
currents in the connector you can get tiny RC paths instead of a single
long connection, so you've got multiple re-injections of a delayed
signal that smooths tiny changes in voltage, which is your signal.
For R<~1ohm, C<~1pF the time constant is <~10e-12sec. Not in the audio domain.
The explanation? No idea.
The explination: A poor connection rectifies. For 1% difference between forward
and reverse conduction expect to hear about 1% THD. To make matters worse the
rectification will likely be nonlinear with current thru the connection further increasing THD.
Snip
Regards
Bill Beam
NL7F
On Sat, 5 Oct 2019 18:03:33 -0400, MLewis wrote:
Snip
>An engineer told me what was up, and I cut open some connections that
>seemed solid to check. In each case there was a gob of solder at the
>end, but only some trace solder within the first part of the strands,
>with minimal contact between the wire and the crimp. I've cut one open a
>number of times over the years since, to show such to people.
The engineer failed to explain why this is an electrical problem.
(Note:
>NASA will not accept crimped connections of tinned stranded or tinned
>solid wire. I've no idea why, but I figure it's a given that they know a
>lot more about terminations and connections than I ever will.)
I know why.... They don't like diodes/rectifiers in connections.
Crimped connections can produce point contact junctions thru the
tinning layer resulting in rectification.
Snip
>I've heard a lot of speculation over the years as to why this difference
>in clarity, but nothing that seems completely credible. The closest to
>credible speculation I've heard is:
>- a poor connection results in multiple signal paths resulting in a
>sightly overlapped signal so the signal is no longer clear, or
To create a multipath error of 1 electrical degree at 20KHz (inaudible) requires a path
error of about 30m. Not going to happen in a cm connector.
>- a poor connection has multiple connections and combined with eddy
No eddy currents
>currents in the connector you can get tiny RC paths instead of a single
>long connection, so you've got multiple re-injections of a delayed
>signal that smooths tiny changes in voltage, which is your signal.
For R<~1ohm, C<~1pF the time constant is <~10e-12sec. Not in the audio domain.
>Causation is clear.
Not clear!
>The explanation? No idea.
The explination: A poor connection rectifies. For 1% difference between forward
and reverse conduction expect to hear about 1% THD. To make matters worse the
rectification will likely be nonlinear with current thru the connection further increasing THD.
Snip
Regards
Bill Beam
NL7F
MM
Malcolm Moore
Sun, Oct 6, 2019 11:10 AM
On 5/10/19 8:17 AM, MLewis wrote:
With audio signals, a soldered crimp is one of the worst possible
connections. I wouldn't think it would be different for anything else,
but may go undetected until failure. If you've used the correct size
of crimp and used a proper crimping tool, then you've got the proper
pressure for a solid reliable connection. If you then solder, the heat
expands the crimp lessening the crimp pressure, and when it cools it's
no longer at the correct crimp pressure (often the wire will pull
right out), and with iffy wicking of solder. The worst of both methods
combined in one.
Where the wire is too thin for the crimp I have available, I've cut a
piece of a correct thickness wire/cable, inserted that into the crimp
along with the signal wire/cable, so it's crimped between them. I
don't know if that is the best way of handling that, but it's worked
for me.
On 04/10/2019 11:41 AM, John Ackermann. N8UR wrote:
West Mountain is a good source for all things PowerPole, but there
are a bunch of other vendors as well. And do youself a favor --
spend $30 on the three size 15/30/45 amp crimping tool. It saves
much aggravation. But if you're using thin wire, soldering after
crimping is a good precaution.
"If you then solder, the heat expands the crimp lessening the crimp
pressure, and when it cools it's no longer at the correct crimp pressure"
Usually crimp contacts are made of copper (PowerPole certainly are). The
wire is copper. If the crimped joint is heated for soldering, both
contact and wire will expand equally (they have the same coefficient of
expansion), so crimp pressure will remain constant.
Crimping was developed to allow fast reliable joints during production
using automation or lower skilled operators. Solder can produce very
reliable joints but is time consuming and needs skilled workers.
My experience during over 40 years of mainly repair & maintenance is
that crimping is fine when the correct tooling is available and both
contacts and wire are in as new condition (that is there must be no
tarnishing or discolouration, the first NASA link from jimlux gives that
as a reason for prohibition of contacts). In low volume or one off
situations such as the OP's request, where materials might be what's on
hand and tooling is the generic type, then flowing solder into the joint
is necessary for reliability. Heatshrink sleeving applied over the joint
and extending beyond where solder may have wicked to provides good
stress relief to prevent fracture. I've never had such a joint fail
after a repair, whereas the original crimp only joint had failed.
On 5/10/19 8:17 AM, MLewis wrote:
> With audio signals, a soldered crimp is one of the worst possible
> connections. I wouldn't think it would be different for anything else,
> but may go undetected until failure. If you've used the correct size
> of crimp and used a proper crimping tool, then you've got the proper
> pressure for a solid reliable connection. If you then solder, the heat
> expands the crimp lessening the crimp pressure, and when it cools it's
> no longer at the correct crimp pressure (often the wire will pull
> right out), and with iffy wicking of solder. The worst of both methods
> combined in one.
>
> Where the wire is too thin for the crimp I have available, I've cut a
> piece of a correct thickness wire/cable, inserted that into the crimp
> along with the signal wire/cable, so it's crimped between them. I
> don't know if that is the best way of handling that, but it's worked
> for me.
>
> On 04/10/2019 11:41 AM, John Ackermann. N8UR wrote:
>> West Mountain is a good source for all things PowerPole, but there
>> are a bunch of other vendors as well. And do youself a favor --
>> spend $30 on the three size 15/30/45 amp crimping tool. It saves
>> much aggravation. But if you're using thin wire, soldering after
>> crimping is a good precaution.
>>
>
"If you then solder, the heat expands the crimp lessening the crimp
pressure, and when it cools it's no longer at the correct crimp pressure"
Usually crimp contacts are made of copper (PowerPole certainly are). The
wire is copper. If the crimped joint is heated for soldering, both
contact and wire will expand equally (they have the same coefficient of
expansion), so crimp pressure will remain constant.
Crimping was developed to allow fast reliable joints during production
using automation or lower skilled operators. Solder can produce very
reliable joints but is time consuming and needs skilled workers.
My experience during over 40 years of mainly repair & maintenance is
that crimping is fine when the correct tooling is available and both
contacts and wire are in as new condition (that is there must be no
tarnishing or discolouration, the first NASA link from jimlux gives that
as a reason for prohibition of contacts). In low volume or one off
situations such as the OP's request, where materials might be what's on
hand and tooling is the generic type, then flowing solder into the joint
is necessary for reliability. Heatshrink sleeving applied over the joint
and extending beyond where solder may have wicked to provides good
stress relief to prevent fracture. I've never had such a joint fail
after a repair, whereas the original crimp only joint had failed.
PK
Poul-Henning Kamp
Sun, Oct 6, 2019 11:22 AM
The catalogue also lists retention clips [...]
I use those, they work fine.
--
Poul-Henning Kamp | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
phk@FreeBSD.ORG | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.
--------
In message <38B5000D-C878-4470-943C-089153B156D2@alignedsolutions.com>, Mark Spencer writes:
>The catalogue also lists retention clips [...]
I use those, they work fine.
--
Poul-Henning Kamp | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
phk@FreeBSD.ORG | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.
J
jimlux
Sun, Oct 6, 2019 2:21 PM
On 10/5/19 5:37 PM, Scott McGrath wrote:
As to crimping tools it’s important to use the correct power pole tooling as the alignment of the crimp is critical to contact insertion.
Ive found the West Mountain Radio tool to be good for the smaller powerpoles I’ve got the Anderson crimper for the 75 amp powerpoles.
Anything larger - i use a local assembly house which has hydraulic crimpers for Anderson connectors.
a sort of generic question, not specifically aimed at this application
- there's a lot of specialized operations that are better left to
someone that knows how to do it. How does one find such assembly houses?
It's not like the "yellow pages" are useful (or maybe they are, I've not
looked recently).
Some of them I could figure out - if I needed big crimp lugs on 2/0 fine
strand wire, I'd call around to welding supply places like airgas, and
ask them. But that is specialized knowledge in itself - I happen to
know that Airgas is a welding supply place (as well as a supplier of
bottled gases).
For instance, I'm, in the background, looking for companies that are
interested in doing runs of qty:100-200 for a combined RF/digital
device, including the RF test, etc. (see recent comment about swarms of
satellites) There's plenty of board houses that will make boards (and
assemblies), but they don't necessarily have RF expertise - and they're
busy doing what they do, they aren't interested in setting up several
hundred thousand dollars worth of test equipment and training people to
use it.
So how does one find these companies?
On 10/5/19 5:37 PM, Scott McGrath wrote:
> As to crimping tools it’s important to use the correct power pole tooling as the alignment of the crimp is critical to contact insertion.
>
> Ive found the West Mountain Radio tool to be good for the smaller powerpoles I’ve got the Anderson crimper for the 75 amp powerpoles.
>
> Anything larger - i use a local assembly house which has hydraulic crimpers for Anderson connectors.
>
>
a sort of generic question, not specifically aimed at this application
- there's a lot of specialized operations that are better left to
someone that knows how to do it. How does one find such assembly houses?
It's not like the "yellow pages" are useful (or maybe they are, I've not
looked recently).
Some of them I could figure out - if I needed big crimp lugs on 2/0 fine
strand wire, I'd call around to welding supply places like airgas, and
ask them. But that is specialized knowledge in itself - I happen to
know that Airgas is a welding supply place (as well as a supplier of
bottled gases).
For instance, I'm, in the background, looking for companies that are
interested in doing runs of qty:100-200 for a combined RF/digital
device, including the RF test, etc. (see recent comment about swarms of
satellites) There's plenty of board houses that will make boards (and
assemblies), but they don't necessarily have RF expertise - and they're
busy doing what they do, they aren't interested in setting up several
hundred thousand dollars worth of test equipment and training people to
use it.
So how does one find these companies?
J
jimlux
Sun, Oct 6, 2019 2:25 PM
On 10/5/19 8:16 PM, Larry McDavid wrote:
I've used Power-Pole connectors for many years successfully and I've
always crimped them with appropriate Power-Pole crimp tools. I never,
never solder crimped connections! Heating a crimped connection to
soldering temperature will relax the crimp force in the crimp zone and,
if properly crimped, there is no gap among the wire strands for solder
to flow into. The result is always a loss of connection quality.
Stranded wire can be tinned or coated with solder by the wire
manufacturer and crimped successfully so long as the wire is
"non-fused-tin-coated." But, much stranded tinned wire is fused to
keep the strands together after removing the insulation; this type of
stranded wire should not be crimped. Much MIL Spec wire is silver
coated, inherently non-fused and crimps well.
Professionally (in both aerospace and high-rel automotive air bag
applications), I've had the "crimp zone" of very many crimped connector
contacts metallurgically mounted, cross-sectioned and examined
microscopically after polishing and etching to reveal the individual
strands even in the crimp zone. This is the ultimate method to "qualify"
a crimped connection. A "gas-tight" crimp shows under microscopic
examination no air gaps within the crimp zone--the crimped wire bundle
has gone solid and is "gas tight."
"Crimp pull force" is another, production level, crimp quality control
method but the proper method requires making numerous crimps at various
"crimp heights" (how reduced in dimension is the height of the crimp
zone) and pull force testing the resultant crimps. The requires crimping
by a machine or qualified hand crimp tool that is adjustable. The pull
force values are plotted against crimp height and the shape of the curve
examined. A crimp height resulting in a pull force just as the pull
force begins to decrease after reaching a peak value is selected. A
"looser" crimp is not "gas tight" and a "tighter" crimp reduces the
cross-section area of the wire bundle enough to weaken the crimped
connection. Crimped connections have to be crimped within a narrow zone
of compression and only the appropriate crimp tool, appropriately
calibrated, can provide this. Forget about all types of "crimp pliers;"
these are worthless tools.
interesting...
And I assume, then, that the degree of compression (set by the dies and
their position in the crimper) is wire gauge dependent - that is, the
crimper doesn't crimp to a specific force, it crimps to a particular
mechanical dimension, so if the number and size of strands is different,
then the degree of crush is different.
That sort of makes the "crimping a tiny wire by folding it back on
itself" or "crimping a tinywire by putting it with a big wire" a tricky
operation.
On 10/5/19 8:16 PM, Larry McDavid wrote:
> I've used Power-Pole connectors for many years successfully and I've
> always crimped them with appropriate Power-Pole crimp tools. I never,
> never solder crimped connections! Heating a crimped connection to
> soldering temperature will relax the crimp force in the crimp zone and,
> if properly crimped, there is no gap among the wire strands for solder
> to flow into. The result is always a loss of connection quality.
>
> Stranded wire can be tinned or coated with solder by the wire
> manufacturer and crimped successfully so long as the wire is
> "non-fused-tin-coated." But, much stranded tinned wire *is* fused to
> keep the strands together after removing the insulation; this type of
> stranded wire should not be crimped. Much MIL Spec wire is silver
> coated, inherently non-fused and crimps well.
>
> Professionally (in both aerospace and high-rel automotive air bag
> applications), I've had the "crimp zone" of very many crimped connector
> contacts metallurgically mounted, cross-sectioned and examined
> microscopically after polishing and etching to reveal the individual
> strands even in the crimp zone. This is the ultimate method to "qualify"
> a crimped connection. A "gas-tight" crimp shows under microscopic
> examination no air gaps within the crimp zone--the crimped wire bundle
> has gone solid and is "gas tight."
>
> "Crimp pull force" is another, production level, crimp quality control
> method but the proper method requires making numerous crimps at various
> "crimp heights" (how reduced in dimension is the height of the crimp
> zone) and pull force testing the resultant crimps. The requires crimping
> by a machine or qualified hand crimp tool that is adjustable. The pull
> force values are plotted against crimp height and the shape of the curve
> examined. A crimp height resulting in a pull force just as the pull
> force begins to *decrease* after reaching a peak value is selected. A
> "looser" crimp is not "gas tight" and a "tighter" crimp reduces the
> cross-section area of the wire bundle enough to weaken the crimped
> connection. Crimped connections have to be crimped within a narrow zone
> of compression and only the appropriate crimp tool, appropriately
> calibrated, can provide this. Forget about all types of "crimp pliers;"
> these are worthless tools.
>
interesting...
And I assume, then, that the degree of compression (set by the dies and
their position in the crimper) is wire gauge dependent - that is, the
crimper doesn't crimp to a specific force, it crimps to a particular
mechanical dimension, so if the number and size of strands is different,
then the degree of crush is different.
That sort of makes the "crimping a tiny wire by folding it back on
itself" or "crimping a tinywire by putting it with a big wire" a tricky
operation.