EB
ed breya
Fri, Jul 19, 2013 4:48 PM
Paul,
If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A
few years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of
the opamp that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high
temperature. The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed
bad - it did not turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the
inner one to reach nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you
get it all apart, replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a
PITA to get to it. I vaguely recall posting the whole story on that
website that has big coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the
name, since I haven't been there in a while, but it should be easy to
find. The website had all kinds of Z3801A info, including a nice
writeup on how to take the oven apart, which is where I started.
Ed
Paul,
If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A
few years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of
the opamp that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high
temperature. The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed
bad - it did not turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the
inner one to reach nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you
get it all apart, replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a
PITA to get to it. I vaguely recall posting the whole story on that
website that has big coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the
name, since I haven't been there in a while, but it should be easy to
find. The website had all kinds of Z3801A info, including a nice
writeup on how to take the oven apart, which is where I started.
Ed
BC
Bob Camp
Sat, Jul 20, 2013 5:57 PM
Hi
If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be > 400 Hz off frequency.
Bob
On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breya eb@telight.com wrote:
Paul,
If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A few years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the opamp that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature. The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it did not turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart, replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't been there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all kinds of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart, which is where I started.
Ed
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Hi
If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be > 400 Hz off frequency.
Bob
On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breya <eb@telight.com> wrote:
> Paul,
>
> If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A few years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the opamp that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature. The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it did not turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart, replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't been there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all kinds of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart, which is where I started.
>
> Ed
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
PS
paul swed
Sat, Jul 20, 2013 9:22 PM
Hello to the group.
As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire off is a
job. But thats done.
The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might expect
but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service manual.
So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
thermocouple in there.
Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one heck
of a gooey mess.
Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas. None
really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean can.
Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units. Had
it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have started the
process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camp lists@rtty.us wrote:
Hi
If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be > 400 Hz off
frequency.
Bob
On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breya eb@telight.com wrote:
Paul,
If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A few
years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the opamp
that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it did not
turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't been
there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all kinds
of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
which is where I started.
and follow the instructions there.
Hello to the group.
As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire off is a
job. But thats done.
The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might expect
but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service manual.
So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
thermocouple in there.
Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one heck
of a gooey mess.
Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas. None
really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean can.
Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units. Had
it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have started the
process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camp <lists@rtty.us> wrote:
> Hi
>
> If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be > 400 Hz off
> frequency.
>
> Bob
>
> On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breya <eb@telight.com> wrote:
>
> > Paul,
> >
> > If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A few
> years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the opamp
> that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
> The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it did not
> turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
> nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
> replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
> vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
> coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't been
> there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all kinds
> of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
> which is where I started.
> >
> > Ed
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> > To unsubscribe, go to
> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> > and follow the instructions there.
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to
> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>
PS
paul swed
Sun, Jul 21, 2013 12:18 AM
Can popped open pretty easily. Now to start to measure voltages to see if
things are within tolerance.
On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 5:22 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Hello to the group.
As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire off is
a job. But thats done.
The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might expect
but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service manual.
So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
thermocouple in there.
Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one heck
of a gooey mess.
Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas. None
really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean can.
Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units. Had
it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have started the
process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camp lists@rtty.us wrote:
Hi
If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be > 400 Hz off
frequency.
Bob
On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breya eb@telight.com wrote:
Paul,
If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A few
years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the opamp
that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it did not
turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't been
there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all kinds
of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
which is where I started.
and follow the instructions there.
Can popped open pretty easily. Now to start to measure voltages to see if
things are within tolerance.
On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 5:22 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hello to the group.
> As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire off is
> a job. But thats done.
> The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
> comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might expect
> but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service manual.
> So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
> thermocouple in there.
> Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one heck
> of a gooey mess.
> Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas. None
> really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
> peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
> What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
> It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean can.
> Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units. Had
> it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have started the
> process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
> goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
> Regards
> Paul
> WB8TSL
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camp <lists@rtty.us> wrote:
>
>> Hi
>>
>> If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be > 400 Hz off
>> frequency.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breya <eb@telight.com> wrote:
>>
>> > Paul,
>> >
>> > If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A few
>> years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the opamp
>> that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
>> The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it did not
>> turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
>> nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
>> replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
>> vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
>> coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't been
>> there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all kinds
>> of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
>> which is where I started.
>> >
>> > Ed
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
>> > To unsubscribe, go to
>> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
>> > and follow the instructions there.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
>> and follow the instructions there.
>>
>
>
MD
Magnus Danielson
Wed, Jul 31, 2013 8:51 AM
Paul,
gas? What gas?
what soft plastic paint remover?
A little more specifics would help if someone is in the need.
Cheers,
Magnus
On 20/07/13 23:22, paul swed wrote:
Hello to the group.
As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire off is a
job. But thats done.
The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might expect
but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service manual.
So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
thermocouple in there.
Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one heck
of a gooey mess.
Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas. None
really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean can.
Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units. Had
it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have started the
process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camplists@rtty.us wrote:
Hi
If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be> 400 Hz off
frequency.
Bob
On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breyaeb@telight.com wrote:
Paul,
If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A few
years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the opamp
that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it did not
turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't been
there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all kinds
of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
which is where I started.
and follow the instructions there.
Paul,
gas? What gas?
what soft plastic paint remover?
A little more specifics would help if someone is in the need.
Cheers,
Magnus
On 20/07/13 23:22, paul swed wrote:
> Hello to the group.
> As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire off is a
> job. But thats done.
> The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
> comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might expect
> but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service manual.
> So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
> thermocouple in there.
> Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one heck
> of a gooey mess.
> Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas. None
> really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
> peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
> What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
> It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean can.
> Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units. Had
> it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have started the
> process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
> goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
> Regards
> Paul
> WB8TSL
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camp<lists@rtty.us> wrote:
>
>> Hi
>>
>> If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be> 400 Hz off
>> frequency.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breya<eb@telight.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Paul,
>>>
>>> If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A few
>> years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the opamp
>> that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
>> The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it did not
>> turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
>> nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
>> replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
>> vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
>> coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't been
>> there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all kinds
>> of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
>> which is where I started.
>>>
>>> Ed
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
>> and follow the instructions there.
>>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
AT
Arnold Tibus
Wed, Jul 31, 2013 11:13 AM
Magnus,
I am sure he does mean gasoline, petrol, benzine. I apply it quite often
when
other alcohols dont work e.g. spiritus (ethanol). But beware to apply
only the
clean issue which is specially sold for this purpose or that one sold in
small metal cans for the good old cigarette lighters. It is always wise
to make
a little test before to be sure it does not attack the surface or parts
around.
To prevent explosions do it in a good ventilated area or beven better
outside
closed rooms (garden).
Good luck,
Arnold
Am 31.07.2013 10:51, schrieb Magnus Danielson:
Paul,
gas? What gas?
what soft plastic paint remover?
A little more specifics would help if someone is in the need.
Cheers,
Magnus
On 20/07/13 23:22, paul swed wrote:
Hello to the group.
As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire
off is a
job. But thats done.
The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might
expect
but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service
manual.
So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
thermocouple in there.
Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one
heck
of a gooey mess.
Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas.
None
really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean
can.
Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units.
Had
it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have
started the
process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camplists@rtty.us wrote:
Hi
If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be> 400 Hz off
frequency.
Bob
On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breyaeb@telight.com wrote:
Paul,
If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A few
years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the
opamp
that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it
did not
turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't
been
there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all
kinds
of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
which is where I started.
and follow the instructions there.
Magnus,
I am sure he does mean gasoline, petrol, benzine. I apply it quite often
when
other alcohols dont work e.g. spiritus (ethanol). But beware to apply
only the
clean issue which is specially sold for this purpose or that one sold in
small metal cans for the good old cigarette lighters. It is always wise
to make
a little test before to be sure it does not attack the surface or parts
around.
To prevent explosions do it in a good ventilated area or beven better
outside
closed rooms (garden).
Good luck,
Arnold
Am 31.07.2013 10:51, schrieb Magnus Danielson:
> Paul,
>
> gas? What gas?
>
> what soft plastic paint remover?
>
> A little more specifics would help if someone is in the need.
>
> Cheers,
> Magnus
>
> On 20/07/13 23:22, paul swed wrote:
>> Hello to the group.
>> As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire
>> off is a
>> job. But thats done.
>> The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
>> comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might
>> expect
>> but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service
>> manual.
>> So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
>> thermocouple in there.
>> Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one
>> heck
>> of a gooey mess.
>> Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas.
>> None
>> really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
>> peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
>> What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
>> It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean
>> can.
>> Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units.
>> Had
>> it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have
>> started the
>> process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
>> goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
>> Regards
>> Paul
>> WB8TSL
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camp<lists@rtty.us> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be> 400 Hz off
>>> frequency.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breya<eb@telight.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Paul,
>>>>
>>>> If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A few
>>> years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the
>>> opamp
>>> that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
>>> The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it
>>> did not
>>> turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
>>> nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
>>> replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
>>> vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
>>> coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't
>>> been
>>> there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all
>>> kinds
>>> of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
>>> which is where I started.
>>>>
>>>> Ed
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
>> To unsubscribe, go to
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R
Rex
Wed, Jul 31, 2013 11:15 AM
I suspect by gas he meant gasoline.
I don't know about what paint remover he meant but I have another
suggestion that might have worked. For cleaning label gunk off of used
test equipment I have used automotive bug and tar remover. Seems to
loosen up lots of gunk but not so strong it hurts the panel paint and
lettering.
On 7/31/2013 1:51 AM, Magnus Danielson wrote:
Paul,
gas? What gas?
what soft plastic paint remover?
A little more specifics would help if someone is in the need.
Cheers,
Magnus
On 20/07/13 23:22, paul swed wrote:
Hello to the group.
As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire
off is a
job. But thats done.
The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might
expect
but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service
manual.
So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
thermocouple in there.
Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one
heck
of a gooey mess.
Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas.
None
really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean
can.
Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units.
Had
it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have
started the
process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camplists@rtty.us wrote:
Hi
If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be> 400 Hz off
frequency.
Bob
On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breyaeb@telight.com wrote:
Paul,
If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A few
years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the
opamp
that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it
did not
turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't
been
there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all
kinds
of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
which is where I started.
I suspect by gas he meant gasoline.
I don't know about what paint remover he meant but I have another
suggestion that might have worked. For cleaning label gunk off of used
test equipment I have used automotive bug and tar remover. Seems to
loosen up lots of gunk but not so strong it hurts the panel paint and
lettering.
On 7/31/2013 1:51 AM, Magnus Danielson wrote:
> Paul,
>
> gas? What gas?
>
> what soft plastic paint remover?
>
> A little more specifics would help if someone is in the need.
>
> Cheers,
> Magnus
>
> On 20/07/13 23:22, paul swed wrote:
>> Hello to the group.
>> As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire
>> off is a
>> job. But thats done.
>> The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
>> comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might
>> expect
>> but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service
>> manual.
>> So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
>> thermocouple in there.
>> Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one
>> heck
>> of a gooey mess.
>> Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas.
>> None
>> really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
>> peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
>> What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
>> It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean
>> can.
>> Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units.
>> Had
>> it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have
>> started the
>> process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
>> goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
>> Regards
>> Paul
>> WB8TSL
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camp<lists@rtty.us> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be> 400 Hz off
>>> frequency.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breya<eb@telight.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Paul,
>>>>
>>>> If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A few
>>> years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the
>>> opamp
>>> that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
>>> The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it
>>> did not
>>> turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
>>> nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
>>> replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
>>> vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
>>> coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't
>>> been
>>> there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all
>>> kinds
>>> of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
>>> which is where I started.
>>>>
>>>> Ed
>>>>
PS
paul swed
Wed, Jul 31, 2013 1:37 PM
Paint remover turpentine
Gas = gasoline
Ovens all clean now of the goo.
But its still off frequency
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Wed, Jul 31, 2013 at 7:15 AM, Rex rexa@sonic.net wrote:
I suspect by gas he meant gasoline.
I don't know about what paint remover he meant but I have another
suggestion that might have worked. For cleaning label gunk off of used test
equipment I have used automotive bug and tar remover. Seems to loosen up
lots of gunk but not so strong it hurts the panel paint and lettering.
On 7/31/2013 1:51 AM, Magnus Danielson wrote:
Paul,
gas? What gas?
what soft plastic paint remover?
A little more specifics would help if someone is in the need.
Cheers,
Magnus
On 20/07/13 23:22, paul swed wrote:
Hello to the group.
As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire off
is a
job. But thats done.
The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might expect
but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service
manual.
So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
thermocouple in there.
Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one
heck
of a gooey mess.
Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas. None
really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean can.
Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units. Had
it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have started
the
process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camplists@rtty.us wrote:
Hi
If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be> 400 Hz off
frequency.
Bob
On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breyaeb@telight.com wrote:
Paul,
If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A few
years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the
opamp
that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it did
not
turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't been
there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all
kinds
of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
which is where I started.
Paint remover turpentine
Gas = gasoline
Ovens all clean now of the goo.
But its still off frequency
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Wed, Jul 31, 2013 at 7:15 AM, Rex <rexa@sonic.net> wrote:
> I suspect by gas he meant gasoline.
>
> I don't know about what paint remover he meant but I have another
> suggestion that might have worked. For cleaning label gunk off of used test
> equipment I have used automotive bug and tar remover. Seems to loosen up
> lots of gunk but not so strong it hurts the panel paint and lettering.
>
>
>
> On 7/31/2013 1:51 AM, Magnus Danielson wrote:
>
>> Paul,
>>
>> gas? What gas?
>>
>> what soft plastic paint remover?
>>
>> A little more specifics would help if someone is in the need.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Magnus
>>
>> On 20/07/13 23:22, paul swed wrote:
>>
>>> Hello to the group.
>>> As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire off
>>> is a
>>> job. But thats done.
>>> The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
>>> comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might expect
>>> but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service
>>> manual.
>>> So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
>>> thermocouple in there.
>>> Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one
>>> heck
>>> of a gooey mess.
>>> Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas. None
>>> really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
>>> peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
>>> What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
>>> It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean can.
>>> Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units. Had
>>> it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have started
>>> the
>>> process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
>>> goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
>>> Regards
>>> Paul
>>> WB8TSL
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camp<lists@rtty.us> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi
>>>>
>>>> If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be> 400 Hz off
>>>> frequency.
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>> On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breya<eb@telight.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Paul,
>>>>>
>>>>> If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working? A few
>>>>>
>>>> years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the
>>>> opamp
>>>> that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
>>>> The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it did
>>>> not
>>>> turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
>>>> nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
>>>> replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
>>>> vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
>>>> coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't been
>>>> there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all
>>>> kinds
>>>> of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
>>>> which is where I started.
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Ed
>>>>>
>>>>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/**
> mailman/listinfo/time-nuts<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts>
> and follow the instructions there.
>
MD
Magnus Danielson
Wed, Jul 31, 2013 6:29 PM
Hi Paul (and others),
On 31/07/13 15:37, paul swed wrote:
Paint remover turpentine
Gas = gasoline
Ovens all clean now of the goo.
But its still off frequency
Bummer. Hope it can resolve itself with some more debugging and test of
ideas with the good folks here.
Have a few more 10811s to test out.
Cheers,
Magnus
Hi Paul (and others),
On 31/07/13 15:37, paul swed wrote:
> Paint remover turpentine
> Gas = gasoline
Thanks!
> Ovens all clean now of the goo.
> But its still off frequency
Bummer. Hope it can resolve itself with some more debugging and test of
ideas with the good folks here.
Have a few more 10811s to test out.
Cheers,
Magnus
G
Graham
Wed, Jul 31, 2013 8:57 PM
This has been an interesting discussion on how to remove "goop" from stuff.
I find that one or the other of the common methyl or ethyl alcohols is
sufficient in many cases to remove "goop" and has proven to be quite
safe on almost all surfaces.
When one of the common alcohols doesn't work I resort to a product
marketed by Circa 1850 under the name of Super DeGooper. The label says
it "Removes these Goops: Oil Crayon, Tar, Marker, Gum, Labels, Shoe
Polish, Adhesive, Duct Tape, Lipstick, Grease, stickers, Dried Latex
Paint" but in my experience is quite effect on much, much more and is
safe on most surfaces.
The caution label indicates that it contains xylene.
Works for me and when it doesn't I then resort to the much stronger
lacquer thinner or acetone. All are flammable and are used carefully
with adequate ventilation.
And when all else fails, good old scraping is used.
cheers, Graham ve3gtc
On 13-07-31 11:15 AM, Rex wrote:
I suspect by gas he meant gasoline.
I don't know about what paint remover he meant but I have another
suggestion that might have worked. For cleaning label gunk off of used
test equipment I have used automotive bug and tar remover. Seems to
loosen up lots of gunk but not so strong it hurts the panel paint and
lettering.
This has been an interesting discussion on how to remove "goop" from stuff.
I find that one or the other of the common methyl or ethyl alcohols is
sufficient in many cases to remove "goop" and has proven to be quite
safe on almost all surfaces.
When one of the common alcohols doesn't work I resort to a product
marketed by Circa 1850 under the name of Super DeGooper. The label says
it "Removes these Goops: Oil Crayon, Tar, Marker, Gum, Labels, Shoe
Polish, Adhesive, Duct Tape, Lipstick, Grease, stickers, Dried Latex
Paint" but in my experience is quite effect on much, much more and is
safe on most surfaces.
The caution label indicates that it contains xylene.
Works for me and when it doesn't I then resort to the much stronger
lacquer thinner or acetone. All are flammable and are used carefully
with adequate ventilation.
And when all else fails, good old scraping is used.
cheers, Graham ve3gtc
On 13-07-31 11:15 AM, Rex wrote:
> I suspect by gas he meant gasoline.
>
> I don't know about what paint remover he meant but I have another
> suggestion that might have worked. For cleaning label gunk off of used
> test equipment I have used automotive bug and tar remover. Seems to
> loosen up lots of gunk but not so strong it hurts the panel paint and
> lettering.
>
