EB
ed breya
Thu, Dec 8, 2022 6:30 AM
Hi Bob,
Can you please be more specific about this? I have a Z3801A project, and
have always assumed the double-oven is a good thing. If it's actually
detrimental, then I'd like to know more. I searched a bit in this
direction, but found nothing to support this view. If it's actually bad,
then I can delete it with a pull of a connector. It's a great
simplification if true.
Reference message:
"On a true double oven. The outer oven improves stability. It is set up
along with the inner oven
and the design is optimized for both ovens. That’s not at all the case
with this oven. It’s just a
warmup heater. It actually makes the stability of the device worse in
most cases. Yes that sounds
crazy. For all the deep math and examples of just why this is true
…. head over to Rick’s set
of papers. It’s all in there ….."
Ed
Hi Bob,
Can you please be more specific about this? I have a Z3801A project, and
have always assumed the double-oven is a good thing. If it's actually
detrimental, then I'd like to know more. I searched a bit in this
direction, but found nothing to support this view. If it's actually bad,
then I can delete it with a pull of a connector. It's a great
simplification if true.
Reference message:
"On a true double oven. The outer oven improves stability. It is set up
along with the inner oven
and the design is optimized for both ovens. That’s not at all the case
with this oven. It’s just a
warmup heater. It actually makes the stability of the device worse in
most cases. Yes that sounds
crazy. For all the deep math and examples of just *why* this is true
…. head over to Rick’s set
of papers. It’s all in there ….."
Ed
BK
Bob kb8tq
Thu, Dec 8, 2022 1:27 PM
Hi
People on the list have written big long papers about just why ovens do what they do.
To get into all the details, those papers are a much better reference than some quick
messages on an forum like this.
The quick and dirty version:
There are a number of things that impact the temperature stability of an OCXO. Gradients
are a big factor. Your heat source, sensor and resonator are never all at a single microscopic
point within the device. Tear one open and that’s what you will find. Heat comes from over
here, sensor is on that side, blank in the crystal package is here and has a thermal path to
this over here.
If you take an SC and fiddle the trap so you are in “thermometer mode”, you can measure the
thermal gain to the crystal. You will find that as you do this or that the gain goes up. Eventually
it changes sign and comes back down again. The higher it gets, the more likely some very minor
thing will have an impact on the gain ( = it’s a sharp peak ).
From talking to the folks who did the Z3801, they did not have the knowledge or skills to dig into
the insides of the 10811. They also did not have a need to do so. Their task was simple. All
that was required was to put a “blanket” over the device to make it warm up from a colder
temperature. Once that warmup was done, their heater stoped doing anything useful.
Since it was not designed to improve the stability of the OCXO, leaving it turned off will
not degrade the stability.
Bob
On Dec 8, 2022, at 1:30 AM, ed breya via time-nuts time-nuts@lists.febo.com wrote:
Hi Bob,
Can you please be more specific about this? I have a Z3801A project, and have always assumed the double-oven is a good thing. If it's actually detrimental, then I'd like to know more. I searched a bit in this direction, but found nothing to support this view. If it's actually bad, then I can delete it with a pull of a connector. It's a great simplification if true.
Reference message:
"On a true double oven. The outer oven improves stability. It is set up along with the inner oven
and the design is optimized for both ovens. That’s not at all the case with this oven. It’s just a
warmup heater. It actually makes the stability of the device worse in most cases. Yes that sounds
crazy. For all the deep math and examples of just why this is true …. head over to Rick’s set
of papers. It’s all in there ….."
Ed
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
Hi
People on the list have written big long papers about just why ovens do what they do.
To get into all the details, those papers are a much better reference than some quick
messages on an forum like this.
The quick and dirty version:
There are a number of things that impact the temperature stability of an OCXO. Gradients
are a big factor. Your heat source, sensor and resonator are never all at a single microscopic
point within the device. Tear one open and that’s what you will find. Heat comes from over
here, sensor is on that side, blank in the crystal package is here and has a thermal path to
this over here.
If you take an SC and fiddle the trap so you are in “thermometer mode”, you can measure the
thermal gain to the crystal. You will find that as you do this or that the gain goes up. Eventually
it changes sign and comes back down again. The higher it gets, the more likely some very minor
thing will have an impact on the gain ( = it’s a sharp peak ).
From talking to the folks who did the Z3801, they did not have the knowledge or skills to dig into
the insides of the 10811. They also did not have a need to do so. Their task was simple. All
that was required was to put a “blanket” over the device to make it warm up from a colder
temperature. Once that warmup was done, their heater stoped doing anything useful.
Since it was not designed to improve the stability of the OCXO, leaving it turned off will
not degrade the stability.
Bob
> On Dec 8, 2022, at 1:30 AM, ed breya via time-nuts <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> Can you please be more specific about this? I have a Z3801A project, and have always assumed the double-oven is a good thing. If it's actually detrimental, then I'd like to know more. I searched a bit in this direction, but found nothing to support this view. If it's actually bad, then I can delete it with a pull of a connector. It's a great simplification if true.
>
> Reference message:
>
> "On a true double oven. The outer oven improves stability. It is set up along with the inner oven
> and the design is optimized for both ovens. That’s not at all the case with this oven. It’s just a
> warmup heater. It actually makes the stability of the device worse in most cases. Yes that sounds
> crazy. For all the deep math and examples of just *why* this is true …. head over to Rick’s set
> of papers. It’s all in there ….."
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
EB
ed breya
Fri, Dec 9, 2022 9:24 PM
I would like to figure out for sure whether the outer oven in the Z3801A
OCXO is a benefit or not. Does anyone know of actual experiments,
studies, correspondence, hypotheses, or other documents, or personal
experience/knowledge specifically pertaining to this unit, indicating
problems with the thermal stability or uselessness of the outer oven? I
have seen all sorts of commentary on this over the years, but is it
conjecture, or fact?
I have done some searching around over the years, and recently, and
found nothing specific about it. I may not know best where or how to
look, but I think I'm doing it OK - it appears sparse so far. I'd
appreciate if anyone can post up any links to such info.
I have studied some more general papers found, like Rick's ones about
designing better OCXOs. I know that the Z3801A's OCXO is far from
perfect, and the inner and outer ovens etc are not optimally arranged,
so there may be possible weaknesses, but I'm looking for actual known or
discovered problems in actual use.
If there is a fatal flaw in the design or application of the outer oven,
then I doubt it's worth trying to improve it much - so many cycles of
taking apart and reassembly would be risky to the guts.
If it actually can't be blamed for anything, then I think it should be
beneficial to the thermal stability of the OCXO inside. I think it
should help especially in holdover mode, against temperature fluctuations.
I would think that someone with a Z3801A and the right analysis gear
could do some experiments to look for thermal instabilities
(oscillations etc due to interaction of the control loops) under at
least some typical conditions (but not exhaustive, unfortunately).
Also, it should be possible to see if it helps or not in normal and
holdover modes, with the outer oven working or disabled, while subject
to certain temperature variations. I have a Z3801A, but none of the
other stuff needed to see what's actually going on.
If someone has done some of the above tests (or similar) in the past, a
report on it is a perfect example of the kind of documents I'd like to see.
Ed
I would like to figure out for sure whether the outer oven in the Z3801A
OCXO is a benefit or not. Does anyone know of actual experiments,
studies, correspondence, hypotheses, or other documents, or personal
experience/knowledge specifically pertaining to this unit, indicating
problems with the thermal stability or uselessness of the outer oven? I
have seen all sorts of commentary on this over the years, but is it
conjecture, or fact?
I have done some searching around over the years, and recently, and
found nothing specific about it. I may not know best where or how to
look, but I think I'm doing it OK - it appears sparse so far. I'd
appreciate if anyone can post up any links to such info.
I have studied some more general papers found, like Rick's ones about
designing better OCXOs. I know that the Z3801A's OCXO is far from
perfect, and the inner and outer ovens etc are not optimally arranged,
so there may be possible weaknesses, but I'm looking for actual known or
discovered problems in actual use.
If there is a fatal flaw in the design or application of the outer oven,
then I doubt it's worth trying to improve it much - so many cycles of
taking apart and reassembly would be risky to the guts.
If it actually can't be blamed for anything, then I think it should be
beneficial to the thermal stability of the OCXO inside. I think it
should help especially in holdover mode, against temperature fluctuations.
I would think that someone with a Z3801A and the right analysis gear
could do some experiments to look for thermal instabilities
(oscillations etc due to interaction of the control loops) under at
least some typical conditions (but not exhaustive, unfortunately).
Also, it should be possible to see if it helps or not in normal and
holdover modes, with the outer oven working or disabled, while subject
to certain temperature variations. I have a Z3801A, but none of the
other stuff needed to see what's actually going on.
If someone has done some of the above tests (or similar) in the past, a
report on it is a perfect example of the kind of documents I'd like to see.
Ed
BC
Bob Camp
Fri, Dec 9, 2022 11:33 PM
Hi
Other than sitting down and talking to the folks who actually designed it and who
ran the design process, no I don’t have any direct info. I do know that, based on 40+
years as an OCXO designer that the approach used is nonsense. You could do a much
better job if stability was the target. Since it was not why they did it this way, that’s in
no way a knock on those folks. They did what they needed to do.
Bob
On Dec 9, 2022, at 4:24 PM, ed breya via time-nuts time-nuts@lists.febo.com wrote:
I would like to figure out for sure whether the outer oven in the Z3801A OCXO is a benefit or not. Does anyone know of actual experiments, studies, correspondence, hypotheses, or other documents, or personal experience/knowledge specifically pertaining to this unit, indicating problems with the thermal stability or uselessness of the outer oven? I have seen all sorts of commentary on this over the years, but is it conjecture, or fact?
I have done some searching around over the years, and recently, and found nothing specific about it. I may not know best where or how to look, but I think I'm doing it OK - it appears sparse so far. I'd appreciate if anyone can post up any links to such info.
I have studied some more general papers found, like Rick's ones about designing better OCXOs. I know that the Z3801A's OCXO is far from perfect, and the inner and outer ovens etc are not optimally arranged, so there may be possible weaknesses, but I'm looking for actual known or discovered problems in actual use.
If there is a fatal flaw in the design or application of the outer oven, then I doubt it's worth trying to improve it much - so many cycles of taking apart and reassembly would be risky to the guts.
If it actually can't be blamed for anything, then I think it should be beneficial to the thermal stability of the OCXO inside. I think it should help especially in holdover mode, against temperature fluctuations.
I would think that someone with a Z3801A and the right analysis gear could do some experiments to look for thermal instabilities (oscillations etc due to interaction of the control loops) under at least some typical conditions (but not exhaustive, unfortunately).
Also, it should be possible to see if it helps or not in normal and holdover modes, with the outer oven working or disabled, while subject to certain temperature variations. I have a Z3801A, but none of the other stuff needed to see what's actually going on.
If someone has done some of the above tests (or similar) in the past, a report on it is a perfect example of the kind of documents I'd like to see.
Ed
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
Hi
Other than sitting down and talking to the folks who actually designed it and who
ran the design process, no I don’t have any direct info. I do know that, based on 40+
years as an OCXO designer that the approach used is nonsense. You could do a much
better job *if* stability was the target. Since it was not why they did it this way, that’s in
no way a knock on those folks. They did what they needed to do.
Bob
> On Dec 9, 2022, at 4:24 PM, ed breya via time-nuts <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote:
>
> I would like to figure out for sure whether the outer oven in the Z3801A OCXO is a benefit or not. Does anyone know of actual experiments, studies, correspondence, hypotheses, or other documents, or personal experience/knowledge specifically pertaining to this unit, indicating problems with the thermal stability or uselessness of the outer oven? I have seen all sorts of commentary on this over the years, but is it conjecture, or fact?
>
> I have done some searching around over the years, and recently, and found nothing specific about it. I may not know best where or how to look, but I think I'm doing it OK - it appears sparse so far. I'd appreciate if anyone can post up any links to such info.
>
> I have studied some more general papers found, like Rick's ones about designing better OCXOs. I know that the Z3801A's OCXO is far from perfect, and the inner and outer ovens etc are not optimally arranged, so there may be possible weaknesses, but I'm looking for actual known or discovered problems in actual use.
>
> If there is a fatal flaw in the design or application of the outer oven, then I doubt it's worth trying to improve it much - so many cycles of taking apart and reassembly would be risky to the guts.
>
> If it actually can't be blamed for anything, then I think it should be beneficial to the thermal stability of the OCXO inside. I think it should help especially in holdover mode, against temperature fluctuations.
>
> I would think that someone with a Z3801A and the right analysis gear could do some experiments to look for thermal instabilities (oscillations etc due to interaction of the control loops) under at least some typical conditions (but not exhaustive, unfortunately).
>
> Also, it should be possible to see if it helps or not in normal and holdover modes, with the outer oven working or disabled, while subject to certain temperature variations. I have a Z3801A, but none of the other stuff needed to see what's actually going on.
>
> If someone has done some of the above tests (or similar) in the past, a report on it is a perfect example of the kind of documents I'd like to see.
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
SH
stefan.hegnauer@gmx.ch
Sun, Dec 11, 2022 9:07 PM
Ok, late to the party … lurking around from time to time.
Note that these same web pages have a new home at Stefan Hegnauer's Homepage - Electronics (selfhost.eu) . No new or additional content to what is archived at the links above, though (and thanks for archiving it in the first place!). However, links should point to sensible content.
Yes, I’m the original author of this, long time ago. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
-Stefan
Ok, late to the party … lurking around from time to time.
Note that these same web pages have a new home at [Stefan Hegnauer's Homepage - Electronics (selfhost.eu)](https://hegnauer.selfhost.eu/web/electronics/e_index.html) . No new or additional content to what is archived at the links above, though (and thanks for archiving it in the first place!). However, links should point to sensible content.
Yes, I’m the original author of this, long time ago. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
\-Stefan
EB
ed breya
Tue, Jan 17, 2023 8:37 PM
Hi Bob,
I think what may be missing is the unknown thermal resistance of the
outermost insulation surface to the ambient air. This can be very messy,
but could be estimated experimentally on an actual thing, including the
conduction, radiation, and convection effects. If there's a draft in the
room, then it's a different deal.
Deleting the foam, say, takes out its 0.04 deg C/W of resistance, but
doesn't short it to ambient temperature. If it were in a water bath or
heavy metal outer box held at Ta, it would be a different story, but
here the air interface is the big part.
Ed
Hi Bob,
I think what may be missing is the unknown thermal resistance of the
outermost insulation surface to the ambient air. This can be very messy,
but could be estimated experimentally on an actual thing, including the
conduction, radiation, and convection effects. If there's a draft in the
room, then it's a different deal.
Deleting the foam, say, takes out its 0.04 deg C/W of resistance, but
doesn't short it to ambient temperature. If it were in a water bath or
heavy metal outer box held at Ta, it would be a different story, but
here the air interface is the big part.
Ed
BC
Bob Camp
Tue, Jan 17, 2023 9:48 PM
Hi
The 4C rise with the box in place is a measure using a real box. Simply put, the stuff inside
runs at about 4C higher with the box in place relative to the room temperature than it does
with the box missing. That’s after letting things sit for many hours …. (and checking after
a few days). Given all the variables, yes, it could be 5 or 6C. It’s certainly not anything less
than 4C. The room cycles so picking a target is a bit wonky.
The box deliberately has a somewhat open top, to keep some level of convection cooling
what’s inside. Yes, that’s another un-mentioned detail and it certainly has an impact. Lots
of details like that would get involved in a precise answer to the question. One could get
all sorts of cool modeling software involved.
Right now, all I’m really looking for is an order of magnitude sort of answer. Put it in terms
of whatever your favorite material is:
How many liters or kg of this or that will it take to do the job of knocking the swing down to
under 1C over 24 hours?
That’s with the room swinging 2 to 4C over the same period.
The limit on insulation is pretty obvious: Put to much on and the device(s) inside the box
overheat and may be damaged. Some significant margin between max ambient on the
device(s) and box temp needs to be maintained.
The limitation on the thermal mass really is however much room you happen to have.
Heading down the mass route without a rough idea of what’s going to be needed does
not sound like a lot of fun. In my case a redesign of several things comes in each time
you adjust dimensions.
Obvious alternatives get you right back to some sort of servo setup running this or that
as a control element. (unless there is something else ….).
Most of the “big guys” seem to have found a convenient cave (or built one). Then then
get to publish papers on the shortcomings of thermal control in their custom built
cavern ….. All of the things they complain about apply here. The power load in the
area is variable. People (and dogs) wander through on a random basis. There’s a door
to an unheated space here and another one over there. They get opened from time
to time …. (none of that goes into the 4C number, but probably should ….. )
Bob
On Jan 17, 2023, at 3:37 PM, ed breya via time-nuts time-nuts@lists.febo.com wrote:
Hi Bob,
I think what may be missing is the unknown thermal resistance of the outermost insulation surface to the ambient air. This can be very messy, but could be estimated experimentally on an actual thing, including the conduction, radiation, and convection effects. If there's a draft in the room, then it's a different deal.
Deleting the foam, say, takes out its 0.04 deg C/W of resistance, but doesn't short it to ambient temperature. If it were in a water bath or heavy metal outer box held at Ta, it would be a different story, but here the air interface is the big part.
Ed
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
Hi
The 4C rise with the box in place is a measure using a real box. Simply put, the stuff inside
runs at about 4C higher with the box in place relative to the room temperature than it does
with the box missing. That’s after letting things sit for many hours …. (and checking after
a few days). Given all the variables, yes, it could be 5 or 6C. It’s certainly not anything less
than 4C. The room cycles so picking a target is a bit wonky.
The box deliberately has a somewhat open top, to keep some level of convection cooling
what’s inside. Yes, that’s another un-mentioned detail and it certainly has an impact. Lots
of details like that would get involved in a precise answer to the question. One could get
all sorts of cool modeling software involved.
Right now, all I’m really looking for is an order of magnitude sort of answer. Put it in terms
of whatever your favorite material is:
How many liters or kg of this or that will it take to do the job of knocking the swing down to
under 1C over 24 hours?
That’s with the room swinging 2 to 4C over the same period.
The limit on insulation is pretty obvious: Put to much on and the device(s) inside the box
overheat and may be damaged. Some significant margin between max ambient on the
device(s) and box temp needs to be maintained.
The limitation on the thermal mass really is however much room you happen to have.
Heading down the mass route without a rough idea of what’s going to be needed does
not sound like a lot of fun. In my case a redesign of several things comes in each time
you adjust dimensions.
Obvious alternatives get you right back to some sort of servo setup running this or that
as a control element. (unless there is something else ….).
Most of the “big guys” seem to have found a convenient cave (or built one). Then then
get to publish papers on the shortcomings of thermal control in their custom built
cavern ….. All of the things they complain about apply here. The power load in the
area is variable. People (and dogs) wander through on a random basis. There’s a door
to an unheated space here and another one over there. They get opened from time
to time …. (none of that goes into the 4C number, but probably should ….. )
Bob
> On Jan 17, 2023, at 3:37 PM, ed breya via time-nuts <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> I think what may be missing is the unknown thermal resistance of the outermost insulation surface to the ambient air. This can be very messy, but could be estimated experimentally on an actual thing, including the conduction, radiation, and convection effects. If there's a draft in the room, then it's a different deal.
>
> Deleting the foam, say, takes out its 0.04 deg C/W of resistance, but doesn't short it to ambient temperature. If it were in a water bath or heavy metal outer box held at Ta, it would be a different story, but here the air interface is the big part.
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
PK
Poul-Henning Kamp
Tue, Jan 17, 2023 10:43 PM
ed breya via time-nuts writes:
I think what may be missing is the unknown thermal resistance of the
outermost insulation surface to the ambient air. This can be very messy,
but could be estimated experimentally on an actual thing, [...]
Unless you have cranked your fan or A/C up to gale force winds, you can safely ignore that inside a building,
--
Poul-Henning Kamp | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
phk@FreeBSD.ORG | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.
--------
ed breya via time-nuts writes:
> I think what may be missing is the unknown thermal resistance of the
> outermost insulation surface to the ambient air. This can be very messy,
> but could be estimated experimentally on an actual thing, [...]
Unless you have cranked your fan or A/C up to gale force winds, you can safely ignore that inside a building,
--
Poul-Henning Kamp | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
phk@FreeBSD.ORG | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.
NM
Neville Michie
Wed, Jan 18, 2023 4:34 AM
Watching this discussion of laboratory temperature control, I feel that my experience might be helpful. I inherited a laboratory, about 1980, about 4 X 5 X 7 metres in dimension. I had the help of a refrigeration/AC tradesman, and together we wanted to try to improve conditions.
There was a ~ 1 HP reverse cycle window conditioner in the middle of the long wall.
Measurements with a couple of thermohydrographs (clockwork recording temperature/humidity recorder)
showed swings of 6 or 8 degrees C in the course of a few hours. The temperature was controlled by a mechanical switch which had hysteresis of about 2 to 4 Degrees C. The unit operated like this: for about an hour the compressor laboured away cooling the room until the return air to the conditioner
had fallen by 2 or 3 degrees.
Then the unit would switch itself off for a few minutes (to decompress) and then it would chug away for another quarter hour it would heating the air until the room had heated 2 or 4 degrees.
More of an oscillator than a controller.
After some experiments this is what we finished up with.
A small computer fan was fixed to the wall blowing air parallel to the wall. This caused the air to slowly rotate around the room. Air velocity was less that 0.5m/s, which is the threshold to be able to sense air flow against the face. So there was no apparent airflow unless you looked for it.
The air took about a minute to travel around the room. The stirring was enough to make the air behave like a well stirred vessel. Now the room contained about 140 Kg of air, so the the heating by one kilowatt was about 0.007 degrees/second.
The air temperature was measured with a tiny glass encapsulated thermistor which was near enough to the fan to responds in one or two seconds. It turned out to quite accurately measure the average temperature of the room.
The output of the thermistor circuit was simply over or under the setpoint.
The compressor was switched with zero voltage switching industrial solid state relays.
What made this system very successful was the logic connecting the temperature sensor to the compressor, and heat/cool relay.
There were several rules to implement.
If the room was in heating mode;
if the temperature rose 0.1 degree above setpoint, the
compressor was stoped. If the compressor is ever stopped it must stay stopped for one minute.
At the end of the minute, if temperature is below the setpoint, the compressor is switched on.
For the next 5 minutes if the temperature falls below setpoint, the compressor starts. If after only 2 seconds the temperature rises above the setpoint the compressor is switched off. This is not ”short cycling” because the compressor stays off for for a minute.
Cool cycle;
If after 5 minutes of no heating demand the cooling mode is implemented.
The window unit is put into refrigeration mode, the compressor is started and keeps running until the temperature falls below the setpoint. When that is achieved, the compressor cuts out and back in, always allowing a minute(or two) for the gas pressure in the compressor to subside so it does not have to start under load. If no cooling is required for 5 or ten minutes the mode is changed.
The temperature control was miraculous. The temperature did not deviate by more that a small fraction of a degree for weeks on end.
The changeover period, from heat to cool and back, did not cause noticeable transients because they only occurred when conditions outside had cooled or heated to nearly match the setpoint of the room.
5 or 6 of these rooms were built, a paper was published, but it was attacked with papers saying it could not work by people who never tried it, and would not even come to witness it.
So stay away from 3 term controllers, they are not relevant, and commercial “Thermostats”
and use this simple on off controller either ramping up or down at 0.5 degree per minute
and with one second response time trimming swings to a few hundredths of a degree Celsius.
cheers, Neville Michie
On 18 Jan 2023, at 08:48, Bob Camp via time-nuts time-nuts@lists.febo.com wrote:
Hi
The 4C rise with the box in place is a measure using a real box. Simply put, the stuff inside
runs at about 4C higher with the box in place relative to the room temperature than it does
with the box missing. That’s after letting things sit for many hours …. (and checking after
a few days). Given all the variables, yes, it could be 5 or 6C. It’s certainly not anything less
than 4C. The room cycles so picking a target is a bit wonky.
The box deliberately has a somewhat open top, to keep some level of convection cooling
what’s inside. Yes, that’s another un-mentioned detail and it certainly has an impact. Lots
of details like that would get involved in a precise answer to the question. One could get
all sorts of cool modeling software involved.
Right now, all I’m really looking for is an order of magnitude sort of answer. Put it in terms
of whatever your favorite material is:
How many liters or kg of this or that will it take to do the job of knocking the swing down to
under 1C over 24 hours?
That’s with the room swinging 2 to 4C over the same period.
The limit on insulation is pretty obvious: Put to much on and the device(s) inside the box
overheat and may be damaged. Some significant margin between max ambient on the
device(s) and box temp needs to be maintained.
The limitation on the thermal mass really is however much room you happen to have.
Heading down the mass route without a rough idea of what’s going to be needed does
not sound like a lot of fun. In my case a redesign of several things comes in each time
you adjust dimensions.
Obvious alternatives get you right back to some sort of servo setup running this or that
as a control element. (unless there is something else ….).
Most of the “big guys” seem to have found a convenient cave (or built one). Then then
get to publish papers on the shortcomings of thermal control in their custom built
cavern ….. All of the things they complain about apply here. The power load in the
area is variable. People (and dogs) wander through on a random basis. There’s a door
to an unheated space here and another one over there. They get opened from time
to time …. (none of that goes into the 4C number, but probably should ….. )
Bob
On Jan 17, 2023, at 3:37 PM, ed breya via time-nuts time-nuts@lists.febo.com wrote:
Hi Bob,
I think what may be missing is the unknown thermal resistance of the outermost insulation surface to the ambient air. This can be very messy, but could be estimated experimentally on an actual thing, including the conduction, radiation, and convection effects. If there's a draft in the room, then it's a different deal.
Deleting the foam, say, takes out its 0.04 deg C/W of resistance, but doesn't short it to ambient temperature. If it were in a water bath or heavy metal outer box held at Ta, it would be a different story, but here the air interface is the big part.
Ed
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
Watching this discussion of laboratory temperature control, I feel that my experience might be helpful. I inherited a laboratory, about 1980, about 4 X 5 X 7 metres in dimension. I had the help of a refrigeration/AC tradesman, and together we wanted to try to improve conditions.
There was a ~ 1 HP reverse cycle window conditioner in the middle of the long wall.
Measurements with a couple of thermohydrographs (clockwork recording temperature/humidity recorder)
showed swings of 6 or 8 degrees C in the course of a few hours. The temperature was controlled by a mechanical switch which had hysteresis of about 2 to 4 Degrees C. The unit operated like this: for about an hour the compressor laboured away cooling the room until the return air to the conditioner
had fallen by 2 or 3 degrees.
Then the unit would switch itself off for a few minutes (to decompress) and then it would chug away for another quarter hour it would heating the air until the room had heated 2 or 4 degrees.
More of an oscillator than a controller.
After some experiments this is what we finished up with.
A small computer fan was fixed to the wall blowing air parallel to the wall. This caused the air to slowly rotate around the room. Air velocity was less that 0.5m/s, which is the threshold to be able to sense air flow against the face. So there was no apparent airflow unless you looked for it.
The air took about a minute to travel around the room. The stirring was enough to make the air behave like a well stirred vessel. Now the room contained about 140 Kg of air, so the the heating by one kilowatt was about 0.007 degrees/second.
The air temperature was measured with a tiny glass encapsulated thermistor which was near enough to the fan to responds in one or two seconds. It turned out to quite accurately measure the average temperature of the room.
The output of the thermistor circuit was simply over or under the setpoint.
The compressor was switched with zero voltage switching industrial solid state relays.
What made this system very successful was the logic connecting the temperature sensor to the compressor, and heat/cool relay.
There were several rules to implement.
If the room was in heating mode;
if the temperature rose 0.1 degree above setpoint, the
compressor was stoped. If the compressor is ever stopped it must stay stopped for one minute.
At the end of the minute, if temperature is below the setpoint, the compressor is switched on.
For the next 5 minutes if the temperature falls below setpoint, the compressor starts. If after only 2 seconds the temperature rises above the setpoint the compressor is switched off. This is not ”short cycling” because the compressor stays off for for a minute.
Cool cycle;
If after 5 minutes of no heating demand the cooling mode is implemented.
The window unit is put into refrigeration mode, the compressor is started and keeps running until the temperature falls below the setpoint. When that is achieved, the compressor cuts out and back in, always allowing a minute(or two) for the gas pressure in the compressor to subside so it does not have to start under load. If no cooling is required for 5 or ten minutes the mode is changed.
The temperature control was miraculous. The temperature did not deviate by more that a small fraction of a degree for weeks on end.
The changeover period, from heat to cool and back, did not cause noticeable transients because they only occurred when conditions outside had cooled or heated to nearly match the setpoint of the room.
5 or 6 of these rooms were built, a paper was published, but it was attacked with papers saying it could not work by people who never tried it, and would not even come to witness it.
So stay away from 3 term controllers, they are not relevant, and commercial “Thermostats”
and use this simple on off controller either ramping up or down at 0.5 degree per minute
and with one second response time trimming swings to a few hundredths of a degree Celsius.
cheers, Neville Michie
> On 18 Jan 2023, at 08:48, Bob Camp via time-nuts <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> The 4C rise with the box in place is a measure using a real box. Simply put, the stuff inside
> runs at about 4C higher with the box in place relative to the room temperature than it does
> with the box missing. That’s after letting things sit for many hours …. (and checking after
> a few days). Given all the variables, yes, it could be 5 or 6C. It’s certainly not anything less
> than 4C. The room cycles so picking a target is a bit wonky.
>
> The box deliberately has a somewhat open top, to keep some level of convection cooling
> what’s inside. Yes, that’s another un-mentioned detail and it certainly has an impact. Lots
> of details like that would get involved in a precise answer to the question. One could get
> all sorts of cool modeling software involved.
>
> Right now, all I’m really looking for is an order of magnitude sort of answer. Put it in terms
> of whatever your favorite material is:
>
> How many liters or kg of this or that will it take to do the job of knocking the swing down to
> under 1C over 24 hours?
>
> That’s with the room swinging 2 to 4C over the same period.
>
> The limit on insulation is pretty obvious: Put to much on and the device(s) inside the box
> overheat and may be damaged. Some significant margin between max ambient on the
> device(s) and box temp needs to be maintained.
>
> The limitation on the thermal mass really is however much room you happen to have.
> Heading down the mass route without a rough idea of what’s going to be needed does
> not sound like a lot of fun. In my case a redesign of several things comes in each time
> you adjust dimensions.
>
> Obvious alternatives get you right back to some sort of servo setup running this or that
> as a control element. (unless there is something else ….).
>
> Most of the “big guys” seem to have found a convenient cave (or built one). Then then
> get to publish papers on the shortcomings of thermal control in their custom built
> cavern ….. All of the things they complain about apply here. The power load in the
> area is variable. People (and dogs) wander through on a random basis. There’s a door
> to an unheated space here and another one over there. They get opened from time
> to time …. (none of that goes into the 4C number, but probably should ….. )
>
> Bob
>
>> On Jan 17, 2023, at 3:37 PM, ed breya via time-nuts <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Bob,
>>
>> I think what may be missing is the unknown thermal resistance of the outermost insulation surface to the ambient air. This can be very messy, but could be estimated experimentally on an actual thing, including the conduction, radiation, and convection effects. If there's a draft in the room, then it's a different deal.
>>
>> Deleting the foam, say, takes out its 0.04 deg C/W of resistance, but doesn't short it to ambient temperature. If it were in a water bath or heavy metal outer box held at Ta, it would be a different story, but here the air interface is the big part.
>>
>> Ed
>> _______________________________________________
>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
EB
ed breya
Tue, Jan 31, 2023 8:20 PM
These midget flanged base style bulbs are extensively used in old gear.
I used to have a pretty big collection of salvaged old indicator lamp
fixtures and bulbs, but gradually used them up to now having only a few
of the really nice ones left.
I have done a lot of LED swap-ins with these, to get virtually permanent
bulb life in projects that I build. I gut the glass bulb and adhesive
out of the base, and mount a suitable LED, and design or modify the
electronics to work with the LED. The LEDs never look quite like the
original lamps - sometimes worse, sometimes better - so it usually takes
some fooling around with the jewel and LED colors and added diffusing
materials to be satisfactory.
Doing this for existing equipment almost always needs some internal
mods, which are typically quite easy. I have a fair number of certain
bulbs still good, saved for replacements in various gear. Once they run
out, it will be time for changing to LEDs. I save all the burned out
bulbs as husks for LED transplants.
Here's an interesting aside (I think). The Tek 7000 series scopes use
this style bulb (three of them) for graticule illumination. A few years
ago, I made and installed some "white" LED replacements to see how they
worked. It looked pretty good, and I was happy. Then I took some screen
shots with a phone/camera. The graticules showed up nearly invisible in
the pictures. The false spectrum of the LEDs fooled the eye OK, but the
camera's response was way different.
The lesson is to make sure the LED "color" actually works properly in
all of its applications. The LEDs I used back then were of some whitish
unknown type. I think the more modern high power ones built for lighting
should have a good spectrum for cameras too, but I haven't yet tried the
obvious experiment to find out.
Ed
These midget flanged base style bulbs are extensively used in old gear.
I used to have a pretty big collection of salvaged old indicator lamp
fixtures and bulbs, but gradually used them up to now having only a few
of the really nice ones left.
I have done a lot of LED swap-ins with these, to get virtually permanent
bulb life in projects that I build. I gut the glass bulb and adhesive
out of the base, and mount a suitable LED, and design or modify the
electronics to work with the LED. The LEDs never look quite like the
original lamps - sometimes worse, sometimes better - so it usually takes
some fooling around with the jewel and LED colors and added diffusing
materials to be satisfactory.
Doing this for existing equipment almost always needs some internal
mods, which are typically quite easy. I have a fair number of certain
bulbs still good, saved for replacements in various gear. Once they run
out, it will be time for changing to LEDs. I save all the burned out
bulbs as husks for LED transplants.
Here's an interesting aside (I think). The Tek 7000 series scopes use
this style bulb (three of them) for graticule illumination. A few years
ago, I made and installed some "white" LED replacements to see how they
worked. It looked pretty good, and I was happy. Then I took some screen
shots with a phone/camera. The graticules showed up nearly invisible in
the pictures. The false spectrum of the LEDs fooled the eye OK, but the
camera's response was way different.
The lesson is to make sure the LED "color" actually works properly in
all of its applications. The LEDs I used back then were of some whitish
unknown type. I think the more modern high power ones built for lighting
should have a good spectrum for cameras too, but I haven't yet tried the
obvious experiment to find out.
Ed