R C Smith Jr writes: >Scott, I think that is the size of 1/2 in Grade 43 ISO chain, not BBB, which >is 17/32 in or .5313 in. If BBB, you should see it stamped in each link. I have long suspected that this is a non-standard chain. I've just had a close look and it is not stamped BBB. The diameter ranges from 0.540 to 0.545. It's only where the weld is that the diameter is greater. Does anybody happen to know where the specs for BBB chain can be found? I had a quick look with Google but could not find anything. If it's like most load-bearing specifications, it will probably specify minimum sizes, not maximum sizes. > >Another check: BBB links are shorter to cut down on kinking in the chain >locker. Inside length of 1/2 BBB is 1.34 in, Grade 40 is longer at 1.59 in. Again, I just measured and the inside length is +/- 1.350. So it's definitely not Grade 40. > >Non sequitur: If above is true, why did you fix work? Well, it looks like I have some sort of non-standard chain, with larger diameter links but still the BBB length. Steven Dubnoff writes: >I would say the big question here is why Ideal mis-designed in the >gypsy in the first place, or, if the gypsy was ok for "standard" >chain, why Ideal did not at least suggest that you measure your chain >before selling you a new part. Well, when I talked to Ideal they told me that this is the gypsy that they had been selling since "before the war", and I don't think they meant the Gulf War or even the Korean War. So I think that my chain is at fault, not the gypsy. On the other hand, I can't see any reason that they don't open up the slot a bit, but that's another discussion. writes: >You mean hundredths don't you? Decimal, tenths, hundredths, thousandths is >the order. Yep, thousandths. >Any idea who made the chain? Nope. It was on the boat when I bought it. >If the chain is "normal" then it >would be Ideal's fault. AT the prices quoted, in hindsight, it would have >been cheaper to replace the chain Well, 400 feet of 1/2 BBB will run me about $3200, so I'm still ahead. And hey, I have a spare gypsy. Scott Welch FirstClass Product Manager www.firstclass.com Those who make no mistakes rarely make anything.

Albin43SDtr writes: >>During startup, 32 deg. F Minimum and steady >>operating conditions of 175-210 deg. F: SAE viscosity number 40 engine oil Just an FYI for the forum, this is the same oil I need for my 50 year old Detroit Diesel. I use Shell Rotella 40 (It's Rotella T in the US, but make sure you don't get the multiweight). http://tinyurl.com/4en5ut It's not that common in automotive supply locations, but you will find this oil at any truck supply company and also any commercial Shell lubricant dealer. It comes in 5 gallon pails, which I find convenient. Scott Welch FirstClass Product Manager www.firstclass.com "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

"Richard Tomkinson" writes: >A vendor I met at the Seattle boat show told me that the life expectancy for >engine mounts was 10 years. >I have 30 years on mine and they seem to be solid with no signs of >misalignment (temp in the bearings). Are you sure they are floating (rubber) engine mounts? It's the rubber that fails. However many engines (especially older ones) were rigidly mounted. Mine are solid cast iron, bolted to 10" X 18" X 40 foot engine beds. They have lasted 45 years, I don't think that they will fail any time soon :-) Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration Solutions Group www.firstclass.com "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

"Todd Mains" writes: >I don't think your biggest problem is that the Coast Guard would stop and >fine you for exchanging a boat ride for beer. I think your biggest worry is >that if there were an accident the survivors or their heirs would make a >case that you were carrying passengers for hire without a license. And the even bigger problem is that your insurance company would drop you like a hot potato. Read your insurance policy, it will be very clear that you are not covered to carry passengers for hire. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration Solutions Group www.firstclass.com "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

"Wesley & Patty Eldred" writes: >I am afraid we are continuing to abuse this term. A chock is used to >control the location and lead of a line, an anchor stowed on deck or a boat, >often a small boat, that is out of water. As other listees have noted, this >thread refers to bilge keels. For what it's worth, this may be a regional thing. I live on the east coast and have always known bilge keels as "bilge keels". However my boat (a 60 foot DeFever) is on the west coast, and everybody there, from the surveyor to the guys in the shipyards, refer to the bilge keels a "rolling chocks". In fact, they were even referred to as "skookum rolling chocks", which is how I discovered that "skookum" is not a fancy type of bilge keel but is in fact something that is extra-special heavy duty. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration Solutions Group www.firstclass.com "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

Bob McLeran writes: >Does anyone have experience with this handheld unit and what do you >think of it? It's just as easy to make your own. I used a nifty one-piece reversing solenoid I got from Burden Surplus: < http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009022313442984&item=11-3169-12&catname= > You can make the handpiece out of a piece of ABS pipe, or use the handpiece from a cheap-o ATV winch. A few other comments: First, I *would not* recommend using foot switches to control the full amperage. The foot switches will leak and fail, and the arcing from controlling a DC motor will be excessive. Use a solenoid, that's what they are for. Plus, it's a pain in the butt standing on the footswich when you are trying to hose off the anchor. Much easier to just hold the control in your hand. I have both a footswitch and a handswitch and use the handswitch 100% of the time. Second, I initially used a 3-pin connector on the handswitch cord so I could disconnect the handswitch and store it. Bad move. The connector corrodes if it's in the weather. A much simpler solution is to hard-wire the handswitch cable inside a deck locker. When you need to use the windlass, just open the locker and pull out the switch. When you are done you put it back. No muss, no fuss, no failing connector to replace every 3 years. Finally, windlasses are dangerous. To prevent the unaware from amateur amputation, I added a keyswitch in the pilothouse. The windlass only runs when the keyswitch is on. That way even if some lubber steps on the footswitch while a 6 year old is playing with the chain, nobody looses their fingers. Get in the habit of leaving the switch off except when you use the windlass. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration Solutions Group www.firstclass.com "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

John Peters writes: >Local Knowledge A Skippers Reference - Tacoma to Ketchikan by Kevin >Monahan I can't recommend this book enough. He has detailed recommendations for how to transit the rapids around Johnstone Straight, including calculations on exactly how to calculate departure times and slack water for each set of rapids. When I took Island Eagle north from Campbell River to Alert Bay for the first time (summer 2007) I followed his calculations to the minute. We had a completely uneventful passage, leaving Campbell River about 0700 and arriving at Alert Bay about 1530. Coming back we overnighted in Kelsey Bay and again used his calculations to ensure we transited at the best water. If you have the time, you can arrange your trip so that you do it on a day when the slack water is in the early morning (in my case it was a fluke). Also, the marina in Campbell River is very convenient, you can take a shopping card from the big-box stores right to your boat. Here's a link to the book: http://www.shipwrite.bc.ca/localknowledge.htm Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration Solutions Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

Jean-Francois Cardella writes: >I am a new member. I am very keen on an Alaskan 46 (built in 1969) which is >for sale in France. There is very little documentation on this trawler on >the internet and I would like to know where to find anything relevant. > >Also I have read somewhere that is a Freshwater trawler? Please advice if >you can. I have a mooring in Cannes, south of France and my intention is to >travel in the Med, Corsica, Sardinia etc. Does anyone has the pro and cons >about the Alaskan 46? Things to look at before buying? The DeFever Alaskan 46 was designed by Art DeFever and built of wood in Hong Kong by American Marine (the builders of Grand Banks). After the initial production run, American Marine acquired the rights and continued to sell them as Grand Banks Alaskans, in 46, 49 and 53 foot versions. The Alaskan line was dropped when American Marine switched to fibreglass construction. The Alaskan 46 are typically well-built, relatively heavy boats. You can contact other owners here: http://www.gbwoodies.com/member_boats.php?bm=2&bl= Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration Solutions Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

Robert Phillips writes: >I am looking for a welding / fabrication shop in the Toronto area to >make a set of davits. I've not used these guys personally, but they might want to look at Stainless Outfitters. They are in Barrie, about 40 miles north of Toronto: http://www.stainlessoutfitters.com/marine.htm Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

dlegrow@yahoo.com writes: >Yes, be sure to have your installer get the dimensions correct as well as >the vessel type. I recently ran into (well not literally, we crossed two >miles behind) a Nordhavn heading into Wilmington or there about, that was >supposedly 6 meters long and 5 meters wide, and was designated as a fishing >vessel. Yes, I have a similar story to share, except in this case the embarrassment was mine: last summer I was cruising the Gulf Islands in BC, and spent a few days near Thetis and Kuper islands. These are served by a small car ferry (about 120 feet) from Chemainus. One day I happened to be watching the ferry on AIS and I noticed that the transponder had clearly been installed backwards. The arrow was pointing the wrong way, and the indicated speed was 9.5 knots in reverse. I thought that I would be a helpful kind of guy, so I called the ferry captain to let him know, and suggested that he let the maintenance guys investigate. You can imagine my mortification when he came back to remind me that he was piloting a roll-on / roll-off car ferry, and that every return trip was in "reverse". D'oh! Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden