Here's a picture: http://www.islandeagle.net/systems/fuel#fuelreturn Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

"Mark Andrew" writes: >Well, I've spent a half hour going in circles with Teleflex, the owners of >the Hynautic hydraulic engine controls. No one in the company seems to know >anything about the product line, and it's like pulling teeth getting past >the phone receptionist...seems kind of risky in this economic environment to >put the sales future of your company in the hands of your phone >receptionists, but there you go... > >The www.teleflex.com web site has no information, although they do talk >about their Hynautic steering controls. Trust me, you are right, it's hard to get info. These are "old tech" and not what Hynautic is pushing these days. However there is definitely an engineer there still supporting the product, I had a good chat with him a few years ago. But in any event they are dead simple, very very easy to install, more or less indestructible, and work perfectly for multiple stations with no extra bits and pieces. Get the manual, buy what you need, on eBay, and you will be good to go. Waaayyyyy less expensive than the electronic ones, and you can fix these with an adjustable wrench and WD-40. Plus they feel very nice and solid in your hands. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

<2elnav@netbistro.com> writes: >Jastram will in fact design a system from scratch if you so desire. for >those contemplating a wholesale upgrade or constrution from scratch you >can't do better than going there. I will second this. I used Jastram components when I refit Island Eagle with hydraulic steering, and they were great. With some companies, you talk to sales people and at the very end might get a bit of engineering expertise. With Jastram, when you call you are talking right to the engineers. I have had no problems whatsoever with my Jastram equipment and would not hesitate to recommend them highly. By the way, they also have a sizing calculator which they use to determine the proper ram and pump sizes. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

StWillett@aol.com writes: >I would not use plumbers putty but one of the sealants made by locktite, >permatex, or similar which states diesel compatible, they usually contain >teflon. You can pick up a tube at NAPA or similar palces it will last a long > >time. My friend Aaron, who is a professional pipefitter in a shipyard, told me 6 ye ars ago to use Loctite 545 thread sealant. I've followed his advice, and neve r had a single leak. Here's a link: http://www.emisupply.com/catalog/loctite-thread-sealant-545-pneumatichydrauli c-36ml-bottle-p-2386.html Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out ." - John Wooden

David Hart writes: > I am considering adding a Balmar alternator to better charge my house bank. >An internet search shows several people who have had problems with the >alternator or the regulator. I would appreciate any reliability info on these >alternators good or bad. Thanks For what it's worth, I had to decide between Balmar and Ample Power for both my alternators and regulators. I ended up choosing Ample Power. I had to retu rn one of the alternators, and when that was returned to me it was damaged in shipping. They replaced it no questions asked -- and it was an $1800 alternat or. So, I'd recommend them highly. See http://www.amplepower.com/ Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out ." - John Wooden

>We have considered just plain paint >with nonskid grit in it but not sure we like the looks. For what it's worth: on both my current and previous boat (both wooden) I used a painted deck with non-skid material added. On my first boat, the painter suggested that we tape out the non-skid area in a pleasing pattern, and so we did. We continued the house and bulwarks paint (white) down about an inch into the deck, and then taped out the non-skid areas with nice rounded corners (sort of like the non-skid patterns you see molded in to glass boats). I then used a contrasting color (Interlux Grand Banks Beige) to do the non-skid. It looks very nice and professional. >Another option I've seen is adhesive-backed 3M type non-skid sheets. This stuff is really, really good. It's expensive, but you can get great deals on eBay. It's used by the pallet-load in factories and they often get rid of old batches. I paid about 1/10 the list price for more than I will ever use. It even comes in clear. You have to wash the surface with something like acetone before you apply it, so the tape will stick. One warning, there are different levels of aggression, and the "strong" stuff has the texture and effect of 16-grit sanding belts :-) Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

Jerry Wilhite writes: >I have 2 vacuflush heads aboard. Curently they are setup to flush directly >into the holding tank, then there is a Y valve that allows me to either pump >out at the dock or use a T pump to dischage overboard. I want to change the >system to be able to flush directly overboard when offshore, bypassing the >holding tank, therfore eliminating the need for carrying gallons of >chemicals for the tank. The question is will the VFs flush ok when my thru >hull is 2' below the water line or will they just back up into the vacumn >tanks? I'm not an engineer, and I don't work for Vacuflush, but I can guarantee that they will have no problem pushing this. >I am also thinking I need a vented loop to avoid siphoning which means the >waste will be going up hill before even getting to the thru hull. You do not need a vented loop, because the pump already has a check valve. Now, my editorial comment: I would not do this if I were you. This is a bunch of extra plumbing, a new 3-way valve, and one more thing to forget. Easier to just empty the tanks every morning when you get underway. Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

JHWardJr@aol.com writes: >I really need to spend some time on my system.B I just bought an >inverter/charger that I need to integrate.B Frankly, my boat is 25 years >old, and it will take me a while to sort out what it REALLY is now after >undocumented and questionable mods.B If you need any questions answered I am always happy to help. I also have some stuff I have been meaning to put up on my web site, I'll try and get that done. > >I am guessing by your note that you have a separate alternator for your >house bank that it separate from the starter.B Correct?B Correct. >I am considering that, but as my starting batteries do not work very hard, I >would rather justB use the existing alternator to charge the house once I >set it up as a separate bank.B I will need some isolation to do this, I >think.B I like two alternators because then you have a spare. I'd recommend that you keep the existing alternator for the start bank and get a new high-powered alternator plus a smart regulator for the house bank. Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

Rod Mell writes: > What about a bad oil cooler (heat exchanger). Had this happen to me with >a bad trannie cooler and lots of water showed in the fluid. In fact, I had this happen to me on a Volvo. I reassembled the lube oil cooler but did not install the o-rings quite right. Check to see if he has done any recent work on the engine. Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

ron bruno writes: >Anyone know of a supplier of a small waterproof solar panel (1.5 volt) to >power a remote ventilation fan. >Most of what's available won't stand up to the UV and weather of marine >installations. The Nicro-type mushroom solar ventilators come to mind but >I'm looking for just the solar element since the fan is located in a distant >locker. My suggestion is to dspense with the solar panel and just use a very low-powered 12 volt fan. The small ones draw under 50 mA, so even a small batter will power one for months without draining the battery (50 mA is 1.2 amp/hours per day, that's only 36 ah/month). For what it's worth that's what I've done, and those fans move about 10X the air that the Nicro fans do. Scott Welch Chief Evangelist, Open Text Social Media Group www.opentext.com 905 762 6101 "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden