If so, how would one check alignment with all of this play in the shaft? I may be hauling out for bottom paint and want to make any corrections while it is out. Thank you, Paul Brannon 1978 Gulfstar 44 MC

pling. Then adjust the engine side to side, up and down, fore and aft mounts. If the shaft has not been aligned, then in today's world a lasser can be used to find the center of the transmission coupling sighted up from the cutlass bearing and thru any intermediate bearings. One other comment on alignment--yes the Drive saver does help with minor misalighment--but not for gross alignment. Engine mounts are not forever--they need to be replaced peroidically--and many used boats I have looked at had old worn engine mounts--just another part of maintance. I prefer that the engine beds have steel bearers running the entire length of the stringers, so you are not dependant of "soft" stringers. Some high speed hulls may flex, but most trawlers should be built so that in normal use there is little motion of the hull itself. Regards, Bob Austin

lock into the hull so the shaft would remain lined up when the V- drive was removed. Paul Brannon wrote: >After all of the conversations regarding dripless shaft seals, cutless >bearings, and engine alignment I disconnected the shaft from my starboard >transmission to correct a problem with a seal leaking. I noticed that when I >disconnected the flange that the shaft could drop a ways (maybe a half inch?). >There was lots of play in the stern tube. Is this normal? If so, how would >one check alignment with all of this play in the shaft? I may be hauling out >for bottom paint and want to make any corrections while it is out. > >Thank you,

lock into the hull so the shaft would remain lined up when the V- drive or in your case the transmission was removed. Paul Brannon wrote: >After all of the conversations regarding dripless shaft seals, cutless >bearings, and engine alignment I disconnected the shaft from my starboard >transmission to correct a problem with a seal leaking. I noticed that when I >disconnected the flange that the shaft could drop a ways (maybe a half inch?). >There was lots of play in the stern tube. Is this normal? If so, how would >one check alignment with all of this play in the shaft? I may be hauling out >for bottom paint and want to make any corrections while it is out. > >Thank you,

ceived it. They upgraded the firmware and aligned it. But despite being there for six months, the problem could not be found. Exasperated, we sent it to the "head shed" in Washington, enclosing a detailed description and copies of the invoices from Michigan. After about 2 weeks they called with an estimate of $88.00 to replace a defective relay. We asked for some consideration for money already paid. The short answer was "No." This was the same treatment we got when the insulation on our Command Mic's coiled cord fell to pieces after about 2 years in the weather. The answer was, "The warranty is one-year." In either case, we would have been happy with any consideration - perhaps toss in the shipping? "No." We think there are 3 morals here: 1. If you need your Icom fixed, send it to the Washington Service Center, not to Michigan. 2. Expect to pay, no matter what the problem. 3. Having a great product line doesn't mean good customer service. Having had much better treatment from other manufacturers, such as SEA-DMI, Guest, I'll think twice before buying Icom again. Regards, John "Seahorse" **************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for FanHouse Fantasy Football today. (http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)

tum GX 5500S. I believe the specs match up to the ICOM pretty well but again I'm no EE. Anyway, thanks for the input. If you are right that it's really a sensitivity issue then I would argue that ICOM needs a better understanding of real-world installations. (Again, no connection to SH) Bill

going to sell radios to the consumer marketplace, that don't require a professional installer then they should design and build a radio that is appropriate...just like the other guys do. Regards, Randy Pickelmann MORNING STAR lying in Clearwater, FL www.morningstar.talkspot.com

o circuits and came out of the speaker amplified. When Motorola was advised of the problem, like ICOM, they said it was the installers fault and definitely not theirs. A month or so of fighting finally got them to admit their error and supply field modification kits to externally add the forgotten filters. Many of todays marine radios do not have very much filtering in the power input leads however due to the design of modern integrated circuit audio amplifiers they are less susceptible to this power line noise. It has been my experience that a great many boat electrical systems have some degree of noise on the power lines and can definitely be aided by the addition of a noise filter in the line before the more sensitive devices such as radios and sounders. This noise can come from the alternator, windscreen wipers and water pumps to name just a few. Drop into any electronics store that sells automotive stereo systems and for a few bux you can get a high amperage capable filter that will take care of all your electronics equipment. YMMV John Tones MV Penta Sidney, BC

eler (a la openSCAD) that uses STEP files? any information would be appreciated. tia! yvette