oilpans@thepoint.net writes: >Anyone tried Rain-X on their icinglass. Tried a little on a small >sample of >it without noticable effect but am scared to go the whole way. Any >advice >would be appreciated A little while ago I saw my neighbour's boat windows so clear that I thought he had new isenglass installed. However when i asked him, he showed me what he used: "Plexus Pastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish". It sells in the local marine store for $14.- CDN for a 13 oz spray bottle. It is supposed to be "The Best" on any kind of plastic, chrome and other shiny surfaces. Used it on my dodger windows, portholes and hatches. Seems it fills in tiny scratches so you can view the outside world a little bit better...., No connection, just a satisfied user. George of Scaramouche1, Lake Ontario, Canada They have a website: www.pexusplasticcleaner.com

oilpans@thepoint.net writes: >Have two cans of Plexus enroute. I bought it out of Tampa FL for >$7.95 per >can US plus shipping. Thanks for your help. You're welcome - that should be enough for a decade or so George of Scaramouche P.s: It also works well on auto and motorcycle windscreens, helmet visors and mirrors. You can even use it on your aircraft canopy....

AlorMaria@aol.com writes: > My question is the same as someone earlier. Will it damage the >isenglass? The stuff we use up here "Plexus" (made in California) seems to be very similar to Rainex. Wonder if it is the same? It specifically lists that it is good for Isenglass (clear vinyl). George of Scaramouche, Lake Ontario, Canada

jdmw@ncws.com writes: >I can turn the key to the off position and the >engine continues to run. I can use the kill button to stop the >engine from >either key position. So the question is this- Will it hurt anything >to run >the engine with the key in the off position? On my boat the key also controls the exciter field for the alternator. So, if I run the diesel with the switch in "off", I don't charge the batteries. And that is not a good situation - you may wish to check this out on your boat. George of Scaramouche1

bhall@bcpl.net writes: >There is no safe way without building special brackets/guards and >clamps to safely secure open light bulbs. Brian: I never talked about OPEN light bulbs. I made the assumption that any intelligent boater would (like I and my neighbours do) use steel troublelight cages to support their lightbulbs and thusly prevent them ever coming in direct contact with flammable material. In six winters in the same marina with about 300 boats of which about 50 are liveaboards. I have seen only one fire and that was from a Diesel heater exhaust which was pointed directly at the dock. The dock was slightly scorched, the boat untouched. However, I have seen several boats go down because of cracked throughhulls/gatevalves and other ice damage. George of Scaramouche1, Frenchman's Bay, Lake Ontario

klemmons@airmail.net writes: >I would recommend that if you >use one of these, find some of those light bulbs that have a teflon >coating on the outside so they don't shatter if dropped That makes perfectly good sense. Didn't know there was such a thing will start looking for it. Thanks for the info George of Scaramouche, who has seven (7) below water throughhulls...

jalexander127@home.com writes: >These bulbs are marketed usually labled "Rough Duty" bulbs and are >sold at >many hardware and automotive supply shops. They are constructed so >as not >to "shatter " if dropped, much like safety glass. Thanks Jim. I used to buy these before I found the "Country Service" which are rated at 130V and will practically never burn out. Since I only use bulbs in steel-cages and have never seen one break in six winters, I give the longevity preference over the "Rough Service" type which are rated at 120V. George of Scaramouche P.s: "Country Service" are readily available from Home Depot - at least in Canada.

Mark: Be careful with the throughhulls. I saw one boat go down here because during a coldsnap the gatevalve (not the throughull) froze and cracked. When the weather warmed up the lake came in.... The boat was a 20+ ft powerboat and the gatevalve (bronze, unused in the engine compartment) had been closed but not protected against freezing. The much maligned lightbulb method would have prevented the disaster. The boat was in the marina, used as a liveaboard and continuously bubbled. The freezing occured from the cold air getting at the valve (top-down), not from the water (bottom-up). George of Scaramouche1, Lake Ontario, Canada As a separate attachment, just for you Mark, Im sending a picture of the cracked valve (not allowed to send enclosures on list) - Gg

>Dick Schroder asked: > >>If you had to chose the perfect live aboard boat dog, what breed or >combo of >>breeds would be your first choice? Hedonics, a Canadian Mail Order House 1-800-387-5533 offers Spike, an electronic watch dog for about $140.- Cdn (plus shipping and taxes). Has a built-in 360 degrees motion sensor, and barks and snarls like a real watch dog. I have never seen one, but it sounds interesting. Has any listee any experience with such a device? No connection with device or supplier (my guard animal meeows) George of Scaramouche1 on Lake Ontario, Canada

Mrmoo5@aol.com writes: >The perfect boat dog is a cat. Doesn't need to be walked, doesn't >bark, and >is smart enough to use a litter box. D'accore! Also kees the mice population down and some cats even learn to swim. Gg