WRT fridge/reefer current draw.
In view of all the comments regarding current draw, it seems to me that
one of the best cruising setups might be a small engine driving a huge DC
alternator ( approx 300 Amps ) which also drives cold plate refrigeration
unit and possibly a water maker.
The 300 Amp alternator would have a smart 3 or 4 stage regulator to
properly charge up a battery bank. The cold plate compressor would draw
down the temp in a top loading chest freezer / fridge built with extra
thick insulation and the water maker would add to the drinking water
supply. This latter would of course be an option.
The 300 A alternator needs about 6 horsepower, the water maker about 3
and the cold plate compressor about 3 -4 horsepower.
Balmar offers a 15 HP Yanmar diesel which drives such an alternator and
belt drives a water maker pump. They are making up a custom bracket to
belt drive another device off the other end of the crank shaft.
A daily two or three hour run would go a long ways towards recharging
the freezer, batteries and even the water tank.
Fromwhat I recall it takes about 2 hours to recharge a cold plate for a
24 hour use cycle.
The littel diesel would be loaded close to its 80% rating and would thus
be at its maximum efficiency. Its small size makes it easy to suppress
noise and vibration while tucking it away in a corner of the engine room.
The limited amount of exhaust is also easy to quieten down to a faint
level.
For those who want the convenience of an upright apartment fridge, add an
inverter to drive the 120V AC house appliance.
A two hour run will add a maximum of 600 A-H to the house battery bank.
Assuming this amount is consumed in a 24 hour period; it makes available
an average power consumption of 25 amp hours.
The high number for a fridge draw I saw in previous postings is about 13
amps so that leaves a little bit left over for lights and other things,
even if the cold plate freezer option is not used.
I do not think an alternator belt driven off a main engine is the solution
for boats that spend a lot of time anchored in one location.
Running a main propulsion engine to draw off 6 HP to an alternator is
simply not efficent.
It would however be the right choice for a boat which runs for long
periods and is docked with access to shore power the rest of the time.
For those who want to check my numbers:
300 Amps @ 13.5 volts = 4050 watts.
756 watts = 1 hp so 300 Amps = 5.357 HP Round up to 6 HP to
account for losses
Assuming a .34 Lb/hp/hour consumption rate we get 6 X .34 = 2.04 lb fuel
burn per hour. which is about one US quart of fuel/ hour
( Paul Kruse, can you confirm or improve on this number? )
So we get a daily fuel burn of 2 quart to handle refrigeration and
recharging the house bank.
In order to absorb the full 300 Amp per hour charge we should use good
deep cycle house batteries. Regular flooded lead acid cells can only
handle a charge rate of 20% of A-H capacity ( C/5 to use the correct
formula ) which would require a bank of at least 1500 AH capacity.
Remember that you can only use 50% of a battery bank's full capacity.
This means that in order to be able to use the full 600 A-H you would need
a 1200 A-H capacity bank.
However if you have a lower energy consumption overall, then you can
reduce the battery bank size accordingly and not have to use such a large
alternator.
Does anyone have or know of a table of average power consumption for
various appliances. This would take into account duty cycle and startup
surge.? I'm looking for something which list products by brands or at
least size capacity.
I am trying to come up with a formula for optimum cycling time; taking
into consideration average draw and peak start-up surge.
Cheers
Arild
<STRONG>attached mail follows:</STRONG><HR NOSHADE><P><P>
We have an older Sears, frost free, 7 cubic foot, refer/freezer, ice maker
and it draws 13amps thru the inverter. We were considering the Norcold option
but it sounds like we may be better off with a small ac unit w/o all the
whistles and bells and perhaps a small top loading freezer for long runs.
Besides Haieramerica, does anyone know who makes a small top loading freezer?
I've been to Sears and Pennys. The ice maker seems to
draw about 2amps and I'm not sure about the frost free draw. Jim CL46
JB0847@aol.com wrote:
snip
Besides Haieramerica, does anyone know who makes a small top loading freezer?
. Jim CL46
Norcold makes a small top-loading refr/freezer that was considered in one of the
review newsletters to be the top of the line. It runs on AC or DC.
I have one that's many years old, running on AC, and can set it to cool or
freeze. It's mounted on the bridge deck, which makes cold drinks and pre-made
lunch salads handy at noon while steering, and it's not too far to come up and
get something for the galley when it's used for a freezer. I have a thermometer
inside, and even in the occasional sun, it cools really well. It seems that
Norcold insulated this one adequately, or maybe it just runs a lot -- I don't
know. Quiet, hermetically sealed compressor, long lifetime.
We made a hinged formica top edged with teak so it serves as a small table as
well. I'm planning on getting a second one for the other side of the deck so we
can use one to cool and the other to freeze.
--
Regards --- Don Dement