Begin forwarded message:
Today was a day of site seeing, relaxation and last minute repairs
in Ensenada.
Sans Souci is at the Ensenada Marina, along with only one other
Fubar boat; Samurai, a Nordhavn 64. We felt a little isolated from
the group, but when we received a call saying we could move to the
Cruiseport Marina with everyone else, I had to decline. At first, I
wanted to move, but we simply couldnt find the time. During our
cruise here from San Diego, we made a list of projects for our
time in port. The list wasnt exceptionally long, but it was plenty
long enough to keep us busy.
First up on the list was to figure out the air conditioning on the
boat. Its a long story which I dont want to bore you with, but
weve been fiddling with the air conditioning since August. Perhaps
for many reading this it sounds silly to be focused on air
conditioning, but we have two good excuses.
My dad is along, and I want him to be comfortable. The guest
staterooms on Sans Souci are low in the water. When under way we
have to close the port holes, and it can get hot and stuffy.
2) Roberta and I will be cruising, after the rally, south to
Costa Rica. It will be hot and sticky If we do not solve the air
conditioning the trip will be ruined. Well still get there, but
frankly speaking, we boat because it is fun to boat. The destination
isnt as important as the experience of getting there. A few years
back, we spent an extremely hot summer in the south of france, with
no air conditioning, and yes, perhaps this makes us wimps, but it
just wasnt that much fun.
Dont ask me what our problem has been, because I cant really tell
you. And, Im not pointing the finger at Nordhavn. The fact is that
we had a cruising schedule we wanted to meet, and our schedule
created a hard date when we needed to take delivery of the boat. We
knew the air conditioning was not fully operational, and took
delivery of the boat anyhow. We were headed to the Pacific NW, a
place where air conditioning is an optional feature. My focus was
on the mission critical systems, and for NW cruising, air
conditioning isnt on the list. I remember buying our first home in
Seattle and asking the realtor if the home had air conditioning.
Why? she said.
Our most recent problem has had to do with the electrical system on
the boat. When the air conditioning starts up, there is a power
surge that kills our generators and wreaks havoc with the electrical
system on the boat. More than one technician has tried to solve our
problems, each with some degree of success. Weve been marching
slowly toward the finish line, and my goal for today was only to
figure out why the power requirements are so steep. Whenever we run
the air conditioning, even in severely limited usage, it clobbers
our electrical system.
After hours of experimenting we solved this particular problem. The
air conditioning system has a feature we really didnt understand.
Its a chilled water system. For those not familiar with chilled
water systems, such as myself, its a really simple concept: Water
is constantly circulated throughout the boat. As the water passes
through the various staterooms, air is blown across a pipe holding
the water, into the rooms. The system is simple, and consists of
only a few basic parts. There is a chiller, actually four chillers,
which can either chill the water in the water loop which runs
around the boat, or heat it. There is a pump to move water through
the loop. There are fans in the rooms (called air handlers) to blow
air past the water loop into the room, and finally, there is a pump
to take sea water in and use it to cool the chiller as it does its
job.
Our project for the day involved turning on and off chillers, while
measuring the electrical current each chiller took, and measuring
the current from each of the air handlers, and trying to find the
culprit that was swallowing all of the electricity. And, to my great
surprise, we were rewarded for our efforts. Heres the quick story
as I understand it: Our air handlers have a feature which allows
them to blow hot air, whether or not cold water is circulating
through the loop. I dont know the official name, but I call them
heat strips. Weve had a lot of guests on the boat. Those of you who
have boats may be able to relate to this but, guests dont always
think about the consequences when they push buttons. As the boat has
been configured, a guest randomly pushing buttons on the remotes
could easily trigger the heat strips. An air handler by itself
doesnt use much electricity, but an air handler with an active heat
strip, can be a major current draw. Multiply this by a few
staterooms and you can easily choke a generator.
This set me to thinking about how to idiot proof the system. I was
convinced that there must be some way to fix the system such that
guests couldnt accidentally kill my electrical system. This meant
spending the afternoon reading electrical manuals, and finally
reprogramming all of the remotes around the boat.
This is the part of the cruising lifestyle that has surprised me
most. Prior to owning a boat, I was strictly a computer guy.
Mechanical things scared the heck out of me. Today, I found myself
measuring current to circulating pumps, and making up spreadsheets
showing current draws on different parts of the system. Dealing
with electrical systems, plumbing systems, diesel engines, and other
mechanical devices, has become a part of my life.
Im saying this poorly, so allow me to start over. In the old days,
I thought all one had to do to be a great captain was to be able to
park a boat. As time marches on, Im discovering that if you really
want to cruise long distances in your boat, you need to develop a
lot more skills than just being able to back a boat into a tight
parking place. Yesterday when the shore power was doing funny
things, I had my multi-meter out. Today I was talking amps and volts
all day. We also had some mechanical projects today. We removed a
door to fix some rubber stripping that was falling out. We (actually
Jeff) replaced a water pump on a generator that had failed. Im not
claiming Im any good at any of these things. My only point is that
people underestimate the complexity of running one of these boats,
and the number of different systems and skill sets required. Boating
can be trickier than it looks
OK. Enough of the boring stuff, now back to the Fubar discussion
My only Fubar-ish activity today was to participate in a meeting of
all the Fubar captains. We discussed the major passage which begins
early tomorrow morning. We will be running 290 miles non-stop making
this the longest run of the entire rally. This is a serious run,
and one which will require 35 to 45 hours for most of the boats.
Some of the crews have never run around the clock.
Rallys, as one might expect, have different personalities. My only
previous rally experience was the Nordhavn cross Atlantic rally in
2004. Just as with this rally, prior to each leg, there is a
captains meeting, at which the coming run is discussed. I remember
the Captains meetings as intense and somewhat intimidating.
Everything was planned down to the last detail. For this rally,
things are much looser. The focus seems to be on what happens when
you arrive, rather than the journey itself. On the Nordhavn rally,
we planned out when we would leave, who was in our group, how we
would communicate, and when we would communicate. It felt like a
military operation. By comparison at the Fubar captains meeting
tonight, things were much looser. When Bruce (our rally chair) was
asked When do we depart his answer was: Back up from when you
want to arrive, decide what speed you want to run at, and you will
have your departure time. This is an absolutely correct answer to
the question, but it left me feeling differently than I did on the
Nordhavn rally. The boats arent being broken into groupings with
team leaders. There was a question tonight about radio roll calls,
and Im not sure Bruce really understood the question. He responded
that he really didnt believe they were necessary. On the Nordhavn
rally it was a big deal to know where every boat was, at least once
per day.
In a way it isnt fair to compare the two rallys. On the Atlantic
crossing we were planning for 10 day passages across the Atlantic
Ocean. Here we are discussing a 40 hour passage fairly close to
land. My concern was primarily for those in the room for whom this
was their first overnight passage. I happened to be speaking with
one captain who mentioned that his longest cruise was across a lake.
I expect he was understating his experience, but I also could tell
this was a big event in his life. I dont know how many of the boats
are making their first overnight ocean passage, and I cant tell you
what the optimal format is for a rally. But, I can tell you that I
personally miss the rigid discipline of the Nordhavn rally.
Different strokes for different folks, as they say
Some of this feeling is perhaps the differences in cruising in a
rally with 18 boats, and a rally with 53 boats. On the Nordhavn
rally we split the group into two sub-groupings of nine boats. This
rally hasnt split us to smaller groups. There is a Nordhavn group,
and ostensibly I am its leader, but weve never met as a group, and
arent traveling together.
Actually, the worst news of the day came when I asked Jeff, one of
our crew here on Sans Souci, about Turtle Bay. Some of you may have
gotten my blog from a few days ago where I sent out amazing pictures
of blue skies and crystal blue water, taken by a friend who
traversed this same route just last week. That vision of paradise
has yet to emerge. Ensenada seems a nice city, but it has been cool
since we have been here, and overcast. I want the Jimmy Buffet
experience, and thought that wed find it in Turtle Bay. Jeff burst
my bubble by saying that the pretty beaches, great fishing, blue
water, etc didnt really start until south of Turtle Bay. Im hoping
he is wrong. I want to find a beach to anchor off of, with warm
water, where I can drop the tenders, get out the scuba gear, and
relax in the sun.
Before I close, I need to correct a couple of things from my report
yesterday.
Several people have written me to report that the Coral
Marina, just north of Ensenada, has a normal fuel dock. I had sent
out a picture of a boat being fueled via 55 gallon drums. I checked
on this today, and there is indeed a fuel dock at Coral. My friend
who went through here recently must not have discovered it. I asked
Bruce why we werent fueling at it, and he said that we are using it
to fuel part of the fleet, but that they had one fuel pump not
working, and couldnt fuel the boats fast enough.
I sent out a picture of the 28 non-Fubar boat next to mine,
which had been headed to Guatemala and turned back. I spoke to the
guy again today, and he was actually headed for Nicaragua! I had
thought him eccentric when I spoke with him last night, but today
I discovered that he was an interesting guy. He has a business in
Nicaragua, and was serious about getting there. I asked what he
would do now, and about fell off my chair at his response. He said
he was going to ship his boat via Dockwise to Costa Rica and then
work his way north to Nicaragua. In my mind I was thinking This is
a 28 foot craft of dubious seaworthiness, why would you pay a
fortune to put it on a freighter to Costa Rica? I struggled to find
a politically correct way to ask this, and gave up and just asked
the question. What else is there to do with the money? he
responded. I then tried to sell him on getting a full displacement
trawler and twisted his arm to check out the various rally boats. We
wound up talking for a while about Nicaragua, and my fears of
cruising there. Well be there in February, and my current plan is
to give it a wide berth. More on this when I have more time.
This blog update is already overly long, and I have to get to sleep
for our 6am departure tomorrow. Assuming I can get an internet
connection, I will be reporting in from at sea.
Thank you!
Ken Williams
Sans Souci, Nordhavn68.com
PS If you are new to the blog, and want to catch up on prior blog
entries, visit http://www.nordhavn68.com, and click on BLOG on the
menu.
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