Backing material
I previously installed a windlass on my boat and used the large washers
provided with the unit. Under warranty I am about to replace the original
windlass with a new one. I would like to provide a backing plate between
the deck and the washers/nuts to strengthen the installation. What is the
best material for such a plate?
Thanks for any advice.
Hal
M/V Delilah
The best material is a fiberglass/epoxy laminate called G-10.
It's available in many thicknesses, it's lightweight, nonconductive,
noncorrosive, moisture resistant, chemical resistant, inexpensive, and
easy to machine.
Because the underside of the deck is often rough and bumpy, you should
use a liberal amount of some fairly stiff bedding material between the
backing plate and the deck. I've used thickened epoxy in the past,
but I suppose something like 5200 would also work. Use some sort of
release (e.g. saran wrap) to keep either from sticking to the deck or
the backing plate. If the surface is pretty smooth, a sheet gasket
would work, e.g. soft polyurethane.
Hope this helps,
Joel
On 6/26/07, Hal Anderson hand@vvm.com wrote:
I previously installed a windlass on my boat and used the large washers
provided with the unit. Under warranty I am about to replace the original
windlass with a new one. I would like to provide a backing plate between
the deck and the washers/nuts to strengthen the installation. What is the
best material for such a plate?
Thanks for any advice.
Hal
M/V Delilah
http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers-and-trawlering
To unsubscribe send email to
trawlers-and-trawlering-request@lists.samurai.com with the word
UNSUBSCRIBE and nothing else in the subject or body of the message.
Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World
Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
Hal and all:
Being of frugal Yankee stock, use what ever is the least expensive, and will
still do the job. Stainless, bronze, or aluminum plate, sheet fiberglass
will all work well as backing plates. My favorite is old sections of
fiberglass boats...usually free.
You can bed the plate in 5200 with out bonding it to the plate, by either
greasing the plate with Vaseline, or much cleaner use a layer of
polyethylene bag. This will give you a nice bed that will distribute the
load evenly. What little 5200 creeps into the fastening holes can be dealt
with easily if you should ever have to remove the fastenings.
Before doing this step, over bore the fastening holes, fill with thickened
epoxy, then bore for the fastenings if you do not have a solid deck. This
step will keep water out of the deck. You can do this two ways, either over
boring from the top side, which will make filling the holes easier, or over
bore from the bottom, in which case you will need to seal off the bottom
whilst filling the holes from the top. In either case do not bore completely
through the deck. The latter method will give a cleaner look to the deck
since the over bores will not be seen or have to be hidden. You will however
need at least a 1/2" hole to get the epoxy filling into the cavity. Over
boring, and filling with epoxy does more than just working as a water
barrier. It also provides a structural support between the deck components,
backing plate and, the item being bolted down.
Woody
Marben 27
Port Orchard, WA