>>> This and preceding gems in this thread re-posted by your >>> listmeister, now that archiving is under way at >>> <http://www.samurai.com/lists/trawler-world-list>. > >A great effort! Is it/will it be possible to do a full-text search on the >archive? Our samurai server is working on it. Full-text search should be possible before long. --Listmeister Georgs

My wife and I have been shopping for a Taiwan trawler and have been struck by the difference in boathouse-kept boats vs. out in the weather(Pacific NW>rain) ones. We stopped asking if they leaked, and now ask how many leaks does it have. Since we will not be able to keep our "new" boat in a boathouse or shed, has anyone invented a cover that doesn't flap itself to death, is easy to get off and on again, easy to get into without taking off half the cover, etc. I thought of PVC pipe hoops, sort of like a cheap greenhouse or Conestoga(sp?) wagon, fitted to a collar just below the gun'l, but would that work in the real world? Our last boat(a sailboat) had canvas with a hundred zippers, and was weighted down with a million little sandbags. It worked but was so much trouble it was rarely used.....I guess this isn't so much a problem in Florida or California. I just wonder why I have never seen any inventive, imaginative solutions. Anyone seen anything? Fred

Could someone who has attended the last NW trawlerfest tell me if there are likely to be many trawlers for sale there? Fred

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>...has anyone invented a cover that doesn't flap itself to >death, is easy to get off and on again, easy to get into without taking off >half the cover, etc... >....I guess this isn't so much a problem in Florida or California... Fred, Not exactly, but with some clever engineering and a REALLY good canvas maker you can do a lot. We have a 'full' cover for SEASTAR, but it does not cover the cabin roof tops. I starts at the edge of the roof tops, and covers all the sides, decks and down to just past the varnished rails. The hull top sides are exposed below the second plank. SEASTAR is all wood, and with lots of bright work. Rain and sun are her nemisis (sp?), the cover makes a big difference. I also installed lots of rain drainage to take away the water from the exposed roof tops and channel it down and overboard without adding more rot spots. Inside the cover it's mostly dry. The cover is built in seven sections (bow to swim plateform) and although not exactly easy to install/remove, can be done by myself in an hour or two. Much better than what I'd be spending fighting the sun and rain effects. The canvas stores in four nylon sail bags in the lazzarette and dingey. I included an easy open zippered panel at the side gate. I use both sand bag weights around the bow and a PVC pipe held down with bungy cords around the stern to maintain tension. Key is to keep it tight and not let it move much, or it'll wear itself fast. I also have hidden most of the snap fastenings and lift-the-dot posts as best I can. If your interested I'll send you a JPEG picture of the results. My recommendation: canvas is good for some people, and not good for others. It really depends on how you use your boat, how the boat's built and how well the canvas is designed and built. Cheap cheezy blue poly winter covers are uselly more work than their worth and end up self distructing at some point in a heavy blow - sometimes doing damage to you or your neighbor. Good luck, Louis B. Brydon (WA6OCZ) O- brydon@ssd.loral.com SEASTAR - Redwood City, California, USA 0 \\ \\ \\ ___\=============== / / / ||-|\ ========================== -------|| | \ ~~| | / / | //_________|_|__\___ _____| | / / | / * \___________/____/ _____|_/_/__________|__/_____________________________________/g | o o o o / |________________________________________ / __|_________ / |_________________________________________________________/ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~