Bob:

Thanks for the response!

materials-this is actually easily done--using rosin core solder--not
acid
core as plumbers use.  You can use a torch and sweat the solder.

What about brazing? Can you point to something specific that describes
exactly what I have to do here? I've got a soldering gun around
someplace and a small propane torch, but I haven't done any of this kind
of thing in years and the terms / materials aren't straight in my head.

attatched, that you fold a triangle, and compress it, punch a hole and
sandwich it between two washers for the connnection.

I'd seen a diagram somewhere on the net that was similar to that, which
I think sounds like a good idea. Plus coating the connection with
something (I was going to use anhydrous lanolin, but someone else in a
private message suggested a spray urethane for the solder joints so
perhaps that's an option).

slit, in the larger width, and fold the 3" strip over.  The 5 mil is
relitatively flexable--much more than the 21 mil.

I'm not following this part. Why not just solder / braze to the thinner
material?

be
covering the entire salon floor with the copper, laying 24" strip next
to
24" strip.

Yes, that was my scheme. Everything I read said 100 square feet minimum,
and I didn't see anything about whether to deduct for "holes". Also, one
electronics dealer I talked to said that someone (forget who, but one of
the major marine electronics outfits) sells a "kit" of 100 square feet
of copper plus the 3" strip, except that the kit sells for $400! He's
the guy who ended up pointing me to Alaskan Copper & Brass where I
actually bought more material for less than 1/2 the price.

Instead of spot soldering, how about if I lay a 2nd 3" strip across the
ends of all the copper panels and solder each of them to the strip?

just
run tuned radials under the deck.  You can also cut narrow strips lets
say
2" x 2" to solder the two larger strips together.

Well, they sound like they know what they're doing! <g> In this case,
I'm just cobbling something up that I think will work based on all the
available literature I could find (which wasn't much). I looked at other
methods (burying it in the overhead, for example), but this approach
seemed by far the simplest. Just roll up the carpet and lay it out! What
could be easier? <g>

Keith

Keith wrote:

REPLY
Since this is a ground plane not a faraday cage, you do not have to make a
continuous soldered seam joining each copper sheet.

You may find it easier to  use jumper links of fine strandeed wire at intervals
or as someone else suggested spot  soldering  at one foot intervals.

This sheet copper will still  act like a huge heat sink so soldering any sheet
copper is a daunting task.  Tried that when we plated  the boat bottom  in
copper sheets.  Fastening  copper  wire jumpers at intervals  and sealing the
connecting points  from corrosion will likely prove  less troublesome and still
provide a continuous  ground plane.
Electrically speaking the gaps in  the seam connections will not be noticed as
long as ther is continuity.

Arild

Keith,

I've been reading all the posts on this subject, and after each one, I think
back to a basic question - why on earth are your looking to go through all
this craziness? There is really no need to do that!

There are many, far easier solutions to getting a good antenna counterpoise
then putting all that copper in your boat. No one else does that to their
boat - yet their SSBs are working just fine! While most people just mount a
good external grounding plate on the bottom of the hull, others only add
radials within the hull, and some just ground to the engine! Why not just
follow their lead?  Your plan for all that copper on the cabin sole not only
sounds crazy, but it has a great number of negative points and very few
positive ones - and none of the positives involve a better antenna radiation
pattern!

Good luck with whatever you do - and let us know how it works.

Cheers,
Kevin
W2WOR

Kevin wrote:

REPLY
A copper mesh or grid of flat tape is often included in larger yacht
construction.
The problem with communications is that so many variables can be
responsible for  loss of signal  that its hard to  pinpoint when  the counterpoise
is faulty and when other factors are responsible.

cheers

Arild

I use dielectric silicone from the local electronics store.

Mark Richter wrote:

--

Keith
Dachshunds are really small crocodiles with fur.

Penetrox is one brand that is sold  at electrical supply houses. There are
a couple different formulae, some for copper, some for aluminum.  Penetrox
A and Penetrox E, for example (can't remember which is for which)  Check
out http://www.fciconnect.com and do a search on Penetrox or anti-oxidant.

Frank

At 07:49 PM 7/21/02 -0500, Keith wrote: