Wow, cutting the anchor chain has turned out to be almost as much fun
as "Whats
the best anchor?".
**
My reason for addressing the question of "How to get rid of the anchor if
it is stuck or the windless is broke and for safety we have to leave?" is
because I am switching from a 110lb anchor to a 177lb anchor as my primary
bower.  I know that Elizabeth and I can't get the 177lb anchor up if the
windless is broke so I need to have a plan.  Now if Rudy's Jill was on
board that would be no problem.  I like big bolt cutters but my boat is
already setting low in the water and I hate to add another tool that I hope
I want use.

I got a lot of good suggestions.  I am going to attach the anchor chain to
the boat using 35' of floating line that is marked in 5' increments.  In a
bind I will let all the chain out exposing the floating line above deck and
cut to what ever length is appropriate for the water depth.  I almost never
anchor in water deeper than 30 feet but if I needed to I always have a
fender on the bow that could be attached to the floating line.

I like the idea of using my cordless jigsaw or saws-all to cut anchor
chain.  I don't think the metal cutting blades that I have now would handle
it.  I am going to get some better blades and try on a piece of chain.

--
Shay Glass
49' DeFever CPMY
Morehead City, NC

Regarding that fender idea... when we had the unfortunate "anchor chain
episode" (best forgotten) I blithely attached a smaller fender to the end
of my chain and watched it sink beneath the surface. At low water and slack
tide it did appear at the surface, but MAKE SURE your fender/float will
actually support the weight of the chain.

Snip...Not directly related, but let me pass on my enthusiastic endorsement of the
Milwaukee "Hackzall"...endsnip

I have to second the portable sawzall (of whatever brand). I have the 19.2 Craftsman set and this was latest addition. Toolless blade change out, one handed operation. Extremely versitile. I have not cut chain with it yet, but it works like a champ on mild steel bolts.

Joel and Vicki Wilkins
m/s Miss Magoo
Columbia 45
Treasure Island, FL

All you folks thinking about using a saw of some type to cut chain need to
think about how to hold the link in place while you're sawing it.

Keith

"Marxists are people whose insides are torn up day after day because they
want to rule the world and no one will even publish their letter to the
editor." -- --Mark Helprin

Snip...Not directly related, but let me pass on my enthusiastic endorsement
of the Milwaukee "Hackzall"...endsnip

I have to second the portable sawzall (of whatever brand). I have the 19.2
Craftsman set and this was latest addition. Toolless blade change out, one
handed operation. Extremely versitile. I have not cut chain with it yet, but
it works like a champ on mild steel bolts.

Joel and Vicki Wilkins

This is just a comment on battery-powered reciprocating saws because the
question was about cutting chain in an emergency and a good answer has been
given.

Before purchasing any battery powered reciprocating saw, weigh it in your
hands and see how it handles. For example, I had one of the DeWalt 20V
drill/impact sets and thought that their reciprocating saw would fit right
in. I bought it online and when it arrived, I discovered that unlike the
other 20V tools, it weighs a ton. I had purchased it for a particular job
and now, I'll need a 3rd hand to do the job.

BTW, for metal cutting blades, be careful of your choice - some wear poorly
according to online reviews. I know that Morse makes tough blades so that is
what I purchased for metal cutting. Regardless of brand, the blade
description must include the word bi-metal for metal cutting. Some
manufacturers include cobalt in the mix. The blade that you select is more
important than the saw.

Ron Rogers

'Lo All,

I know it should go without having to mention it, but planning on
using powered equipment to cut chain can lead to problems. I have not
seen this posted as of yet, so here it is now.

I use power tools all the time on boats - in safe/benign conditions.
I would never plan on using power tools in ALL conditions, especially
emergency conditions as that is where safety compromises are
frequently made. Water, especially salt water, is very conductive.
The bow of a boat is normally the wettest part; therefore, standing
on a wet (and possibly) slippery, pitching deck, using a saw can be a
challenge, but adding electric tools (DC or AC) can significantly
impact the situation. The batteries can die or the motor and its
connections can short out, even in double-insulated tools, thus
necessitating the need for a work-around, e.g. more time required to
get what is needed, if even available, to eliminate the emergency.
Add rain, spray or even solid water, wind and darkness and the
probability of problems and urgency increase while personal and boat
safety decrease.

For emergency chain release, a length of knife-"cutable" (new word?)
rode at the bitter end is, I believe, best. The next backup would be
bolt-cutters - that I had tried and knew I could cut the chain with
(bolt-cutters, even big ones, are useless if I cannot exert
sufficient pressure to use them). The reason bolt cutters are, I
believe, next best is that they only open so far and even in the dark
I could find the chain to cut it without the collateral damage a saw
blade could inflict upon whoever may try to assist, the boat, or me.

JMVHO - YMMV

Take care and be safe.

Wayne
Celestial
Albin 43 Sundeck
Near Panama City, FL