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Adding Ballast

RA
Rudy and Jill
Sat, Nov 21, 2009 5:04 PM

In removing the fishing gear and reducing the fuel tanks
and engine size, I'm now riding about 10" higher in the
water, and experiencing cavitation in the propeller
tunnel.

I would like to add ballast, but may need to work on the
bottom of the boat at some future date.

I can think of two easy options, but, to my way of thinking, which one is chosen ought to be based on the boats roll time, which, after the ballast is added would translate into a more comfortable roll, or less comfortable roll.

The quicker and jerkier the boat's motion may suggest to add the ballast lower in the boat, while a too slow roll might suggest that the ballast is added higher in the boat.

Any way you look at it, to sink a boat 10 inches in a (I think you said) a 60+ foot boat will take considerable amount of ballast, and I wouldn't be surprised if it took 10,000+ lbs of ballast.

If space is limited, lead would be the choice and when looking for lead to ballast my boat, I bought from scrape yards.

One idea is to add the ballast on the inside of the boat. This can be made of the appropriate amount of cement, steel/iron, lead or a mix of these, any of which can be set in cement or in the resin of your choice.

I can think of a problem with this method; it cuts you off of the bottom for both inspection and maintenance, but this can be over come to a good degree by setting everything in a considerable amount of tar.

Another idea is that lead or cement can be made into "chunks", placed into position and secured into place. The advantage to this idea, even though every thing should be set in a thick layer of tar is that the stuff can be removed, if necessary.

If any of these options are chosen, keep aware of allowing water to flow and reach bilge pumps, so waterways of some sort need to be considered.

The ballast can also be added outside, either on the bottom, or along the sides of the existing keel. Steel plates, that make up the appropriate weight, can be welded on. Or a steel box can be welded up, appropriately prepped, the ballast added, and then the box welded to the boat, either on the bottom of the keel or made in two sections, one added to each side of the keel.

Here is another idea, one that I used for my boat and could be used on your boat. Instead of one long lead ballast block, I made my ballast from multiple blocks of lead, each through-bolted to the bottom of the keel. In your case, you may be able to weld the ballast bolts to the keel, instead of using through-bolts (our boat is wood). For ballast bolts, I favor bolts sized to be 1 sq inch of bolt (cross sections) per 2000 lbs of ballast.

The way I did this was: I welded up a box (no top, it was left open on top) of the shape and size of the largest block of lead that I needed, but a slight draft built in to allow for easy removal of the lead. This form was raised off the ground, a couple of propane burners placed underneath (a propane weed burner was also used), the lead added and melted. After, the lead was left to cool, then dumped  out and the process started over until x number of blocks were made- all the same size.

I installed the blocks, shaping them as I went, drilling and fitting ballast bolts (in your case welding them on) as I went.

Lead is worked with wood cutting tools, such as circular saws, electric hand planes, drill motors, twist or spade bits, sawzall, etc., but lots of lubricant helps. I used used oil, kerosene or paint thinner for a lubricant, but tallow is also good.

Since I had made my lead blocks in sizes that were manageable (approximately 5" thick, 12" wide and 30" long) I had no need for cranes or forklifts; instead I used lengths of logs for rollers, bottle jacks, levers, and wood blocks and wedges of various sizes. To lift the lead blocks into my mini-pickup truck, I used an A-frame and block and tackle, but if you wish to be more contemporary, you could use a come-along. To get them out of the truck, I just rolled them off the tailgate.

Hard, heavy work, but I found it enjoyable.

If anything here strikes your fancy, and you'd like more information, give me a holler.

Rudy
Briney Bug, Panama City, Fl

> In removing the fishing gear and reducing the fuel tanks > and engine size, I'm now riding about 10" higher in the > water, and experiencing cavitation in the propeller > tunnel. > > I would like to add ballast, but may need to work on the > bottom of the boat at some future date. I can think of two easy options, but, to my way of thinking, which one is chosen ought to be based on the boats roll time, which, after the ballast is added would translate into a more comfortable roll, or less comfortable roll. The quicker and jerkier the boat's motion may suggest to add the ballast lower in the boat, while a too slow roll might suggest that the ballast is added higher in the boat. Any way you look at it, to sink a boat 10 inches in a (I think you said) a 60+ foot boat will take considerable amount of ballast, and I wouldn't be surprised if it took 10,000+ lbs of ballast. If space is limited, lead would be the choice and when looking for lead to ballast my boat, I bought from scrape yards. One idea is to add the ballast on the inside of the boat. This can be made of the appropriate amount of cement, steel/iron, lead or a mix of these, any of which can be set in cement or in the resin of your choice. I can think of a problem with this method; it cuts you off of the bottom for both inspection and maintenance, but this can be over come to a good degree by setting everything in a considerable amount of tar. Another idea is that lead or cement can be made into "chunks", placed into position and secured into place. The advantage to this idea, even though every thing should be set in a thick layer of tar is that the stuff can be removed, if necessary. If any of these options are chosen, keep aware of allowing water to flow and reach bilge pumps, so waterways of some sort need to be considered. The ballast can also be added outside, either on the bottom, or along the sides of the existing keel. Steel plates, that make up the appropriate weight, can be welded on. Or a steel box can be welded up, appropriately prepped, the ballast added, and then the box welded to the boat, either on the bottom of the keel or made in two sections, one added to each side of the keel. Here is another idea, one that I used for my boat and could be used on your boat. Instead of one long lead ballast block, I made my ballast from multiple blocks of lead, each through-bolted to the bottom of the keel. In your case, you may be able to weld the ballast bolts to the keel, instead of using through-bolts (our boat is wood). For ballast bolts, I favor bolts sized to be 1 sq inch of bolt (cross sections) per 2000 lbs of ballast. The way I did this was: I welded up a box (no top, it was left open on top) of the shape and size of the largest block of lead that I needed, but a slight draft built in to allow for easy removal of the lead. This form was raised off the ground, a couple of propane burners placed underneath (a propane weed burner was also used), the lead added and melted. After, the lead was left to cool, then dumped out and the process started over until x number of blocks were made- all the same size. I installed the blocks, shaping them as I went, drilling and fitting ballast bolts (in your case welding them on) as I went. Lead is worked with wood cutting tools, such as circular saws, electric hand planes, drill motors, twist or spade bits, sawzall, etc., but lots of lubricant helps. I used used oil, kerosene or paint thinner for a lubricant, but tallow is also good. Since I had made my lead blocks in sizes that were manageable (approximately 5" thick, 12" wide and 30" long) I had no need for cranes or forklifts; instead I used lengths of logs for rollers, bottle jacks, levers, and wood blocks and wedges of various sizes. To lift the lead blocks into my mini-pickup truck, I used an A-frame and block and tackle, but if you wish to be more contemporary, you could use a come-along. To get them out of the truck, I just rolled them off the tailgate. Hard, heavy work, but I found it enjoyable. If anything here strikes your fancy, and you'd like more information, give me a holler. Rudy Briney Bug, Panama City, Fl