I'm rebuilding a 63' steel shrimp boat to make it a liveaboard passagemaker a
nd I'm wondering if I need an autopilot and what your recommendations would b
e. I'm installing the Raymarine E120 system, the boat is powered by a DD8/71
with hydraulic steering off the camshaft and controlled by a toggle.
As have other posters, I would highly recommend an autopilot. Island Eagle is
similar in size to your boat (60 feet, 50 tons) and I find that for all but t
he closest of maneuvering that it is much easier and safer to handle the rudd
er with the autopilot. After I have cleared the dock I usually engage the aut
opilot in power steering mode, and as soon as I am clear of the harbor I enga
ge full auto. Far from being unsafe, I find that this allows me to focus on s
ituational awareness instead of constantly keeping the boat on track.
The one thing that I dislike about my current setup is that since the autopil
ot is usually on, I spend a lot of time turning it off. Sometimes this is jus
t to dodge a deadhead, other times it's to clear a wake or make a temporary c
ourse change. Right now I have to get out of the helm seat, which is set back
about 2 feet from the wheel. I'm in the process of adding a remote, which I w
ill mount directly on the seat arm. This will allow me to enable/disable/dodg
e/steer directly from the seat.
Finally, you mention that you are using an engine-driven hydraulic pump. This
is a fine plan, but I would highly recommend that you plan for some type of b
ackup system (a secondary engine driven pump and/or an electrically driven pu
mp).
Last but not least, what brand of AP. I use a ComNav 1001 (http://www.comnavm
arine.com/). I have no connection at all with them, but I have had generally
good experience. It's what most of the fishing boats up here use.
Scott Welch
Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group
www.opentext.com
905 762 6101
"Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out
." - John Wooden
Lorenzo Boelitz <lorenzo@backyards.biz> writes:
>I'm rebuilding a 63' steel shrimp boat to make it a liveaboard passagemaker a
>nd I'm wondering if I need an autopilot and what your recommendations would b
>e. I'm installing the Raymarine E120 system, the boat is powered by a DD8/71
>with hydraulic steering off the camshaft and controlled by a toggle.
As have other posters, I would highly recommend an autopilot. Island Eagle is
similar in size to your boat (60 feet, 50 tons) and I find that for all but t
he closest of maneuvering that it is much easier and safer to handle the rudd
er with the autopilot. After I have cleared the dock I usually engage the aut
opilot in power steering mode, and as soon as I am clear of the harbor I enga
ge full auto. Far from being unsafe, I find that this allows me to focus on s
ituational awareness instead of constantly keeping the boat on track.
The one thing that I dislike about my current setup is that since the autopil
ot is usually on, I spend a lot of time turning it off. Sometimes this is jus
t to dodge a deadhead, other times it's to clear a wake or make a temporary c
ourse change. Right now I have to get out of the helm seat, which is set back
about 2 feet from the wheel. I'm in the process of adding a remote, which I w
ill mount directly on the seat arm. This will allow me to enable/disable/dodg
e/steer directly from the seat.
Finally, you mention that you are using an engine-driven hydraulic pump. This
is a fine plan, but I would highly recommend that you plan for some type of b
ackup system (a secondary engine driven pump and/or an electrically driven pu
mp).
Last but not least, what brand of AP. I use a ComNav 1001 (http://www.comnavm
arine.com/). I have no connection at all with them, but I have had generally
good experience. It's what most of the fishing boats up here use.
Scott Welch
Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration and Social Media Group
www.opentext.com
905 762 6101
"Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out
." - John Wooden
