Depending on where you are and the size of your boat, it may be far too costly to arrange indoor storage. Over 500.000 boats are stored every year outdoors in Finland - where I come from. Down to minus -30 c, and upto 7 ft of snow .... never seems to hurt them. Some covering is essential. Shrink wrap for a cold winter is a bad idea on a used boat. It will trap the moisture inside - condensation will form. For travelling on deck as cargo etc. its good - or short term protection. Ventilation is the nr 1 important thing. Coverings of any kind should not touch the boat - they lead to drips leaks and condensation. Cold as and of itself will not harm the boat. IF the electrical connectors are poor (very common) you will get corrosion at the terminals in a cold climate. OTOH if the connectors are in a sealed enclosure (like an ip-rated plastic box, with grommets and seals) then this should not be an issue. Covering with grease/vaseline will protect connectors - but its a mess. Sealed boxes in tightly closed enclosures seem to work well for workboats. Re-doing the connectors is a big job - failing random connectors in bad weather far from help is also a pain. You obviously have the experience to make your choices. Good ratchet crimped connectors and shrinkwrap sleeves are currently considered the best option. Soldering is likely to fail quickly. If you wont use the boat in winter - just drain most fluids. Leave fuel in tanks (full is best). Leave oil in engine (might change it first). Take all batteries inside. (Might take electronics, depends on how they are mounted / fixed). Cold wont hurt electronics, condensation will. Make sure radiators have antifreeze (if applicable) and keel coolers likewise. All pipes etc. - whats the lowest point ? If the pipes are rigid, check as best you can against loops having water ie ice in them. After a long time in the tropics - you may need to fix/repair/change pipes if there are iron parts or poor fittings. Most fittings are not good quality stainless - and will rust through in 1-2 years. Plastic fittings are very good and last indefinitely ! They are also cheap. Plastic plumbing fittings and electrical fittings are cheap, durable and easy. If doing work like that yourself, buy a professional plumbers tools - see if you can get them secondhand. Ratchet stuff is about 500 new - 100 second hand. ($--#). Don4t use cheap diy tools - and especially don4t leave cheap tools in the boat over the winter. They will become rusted junk unless its a big boat and you have sealed storage, like pelican boxes etc.. IMO/IME - good tools are where people mostly drastically fail to save money, work and make life easier for them. Invest about 3000 $ in good tools for a lifetimes use. Second hand is fine. And they don4t lose value. Some of my tools are 60 years old and still as good as the best available today (Bridgeport stuff). Seriously. For current recommendations - buy hitachi brand new (under 1 year) green line for all hand electrical tools. Ryobi, DeWalt etc is junk compared to them. The new li-ion battery powered ones especially are very good, at least 200% better than competition. Buy extra batteries li-ion. These can *really save your bacon*. (Tested fact). Don4t buy black&decker etc. for anything unless its a single use situation. Hilti is always good, if you have the money. Its too expensive by far but very good. Fluke multimeter (you just need one, and second hand is fine). Fein is similar to hilti. Best single investments in tools - Buy a milling vice (about 100$ second hand). Seriously. You can fit, bend, press in/out anything with one on a boat, and its portable and lasts forever. They are about 10-20 kg in mass. Mine is bridgeport, about 60 years old. If you have fabrics - if you can, do take them off, and get them cleaned elsewhere. Commercial washer is good. About all I can think of. > > There are many sources of winterizing instructions depending on the > equipment you have on board. > > As to leaving it outdoor with out shrink wrap or a roof in the winter - I > wouldn't. > > I think this has the potential to allow condensation and moisture to enter > the interior and damage it far in excess of the cost of at least some > protection from the elements. > > Regards, John Harris

Do today's LCD displays survive freezing temperatures well? Ron Rogers

Nearly all modern radar and chart plotter displays are LCD, they have no problem with winter storage either inside or out, but with there cover on - for some weather protection. John Harris -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for Personal use. SPAMfighter has removed 314 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Trial and Professional version does not have this message in the email