If you remove the old racor filter carefully (letting excess fuel drip back
into the housing) and then, after replacing the filter element, top off the
fuel in the housing to the top, you should not have to bleed the engine.

If you do need to bleed the engine, you will need a helper, since the lift
pump (the small pump with the finger doohickey) is on the opposite side of
the engine as the injection pump. The following is a summary of the bleeding
procedure:

There are 3 screws on the side of the injection pump that must be opened in
order to bleed the engine. The operator's manual has pictures of their
location. When they are opened, the assistant operates the lift pump. Fuel
and air bubbles will come out of the first screw. When pure fuel comes out
(no air bubbles) tighten that screw and move on to the next. When I recently
bled my 6.354M NA engine, my helper on the other side of the engine could
tell when the bubbles stopped for each screw just by the sound of the
fuel/bubbles squirting out.

You will need the operator's manual to identify the bleed points and in what
order to bleed them.

You then go through the same procedure at the pump inlet.

Finally, and only then, loosen the nuts attaching 2 of the high pressure
lines from the injection pump to the engine - this is at the engine end. Do
not loosen or touch the injectors. You will only be loosening (do not fully
detach) the pipe connection to the injectors. Then set the throttle at the
fully open position and turn the engine over with the starter. Any remaining
bubbles will come out of each connection, mixed with fuel. When there are no
more bubbles, tighten the connecting nuts. The engine should start up
quickly if warm, so have your assistant at the throttle ready to reduce
rpm's.

You really should have a copy of the operator's manual to do all this the
first couple of times without anxiety. Once done once, it is a relatively
straightforward procedure.

Alan Shapiro

'Lo All,

On a "for what it may be worth" basis....

Whenever I change my Racor (500 and 1000's) and other oil and fuel
filters, I use the plastic bags that the newspaper comes in on rainy
days. For the Racors and anything that is removed from the top of the
canister, I pull the element out part way and while the fuel/oil is
draining back, I slip the plastic bag over the top.  When I get tired
of it draining, I carefully pull the element straight up, while
slipping the bag down it, then, when the filter element is all the
way out, I simply invert it while holding the bag's opening to
prevent "drippage" (if there is such a word).

Filters, such as lube oil, usually hang from a bracket and just twist
off. The same procedure is used, but I do not let the bag go much
above the top of the element as it will "hang up" and oil can be
spilled. Be very careful if the oil is hot, as it will burn, and
possibly cause the element to be dropped with the resulting mess.

When I am paying attention, no fuel or oil is ever spilled or
dripped, and the elements are in a plastic bag, albeit a thin one
that can be torn easily. I usually put the bagged filter element into
a plastic shopping bag to get it off the boat safely.

Just the way I do it.....

Take care and be safe.

Wayne
Celestial
Albin 43 Sundeck
Near Panama City, FL

I have a CITI American Airlines Advantage credit card with a $50 annual
fee. Even though I do wrack up miles for flights, the available flights on
AA are now so limited & restricted I generally can't use the  miles. I have
seen some credit cards advertised that offer no flight black out dates,
flights on all airlines or no annual fees. Anyone have any recommendations
for such a card?

Michael Wilkie
Dancin' Dolphin II
Willow Berm Marina, CA