Empathy List Archives

MM

Mike Maurice

Fri, May 7, 2004 8:36 PM

I have just had a 12 round slugfest with a new Racor paper cartridge fuel
system.
4 Units running 2 detroits. Two per engine.

Here is my take. You are not going to like changing filters using the new
filter bodies. There is a spring in the bottom that keeps the filter up
high, makes it easier to get the element out. But, putting the filter in,
getting lid and gasket ring back in place and getting the bowl filled with
diesel will make an old cranky man out of you. You can be sure of spilling
diesel big time with this. If you fill the bowl and put the filter in, fuel
all over. If you put the filter in and fill the bowl, then when you push
the filter down, while trying to juggle the lid, handle and gasket you will
get about 2 cups of diesel splashed in your face. If you don't quite fill
the bowl, then it is hard to know at what level to stop and yet have the
filter covered. I suspect the solution is to fill to some arbitrary mark
inside the housing, say 2 inches short and put the filter in.

There is some idea in the community that you don't need to fill the bowls,
but if you don't have fuel up to the top of the paper filament level then
you won't be able to have use of all the paper element's capacity. This is
still disregarding the chances for leaking air into the main line.

But, the gasket does not want to stay put in the plastic cover. You need
some grease to keep it from falling out and it is easy to get it cocked
while you are tightening it. That will lead to an air leak. As if that was
not enough the handle wants to slip loose and slide into the... what is
that they call the hole in the boat underneath the engines? The black
abyss, where nothing is every retrieved from? The culprits here are the
plastic cover that does not cling to the gasket or the T handle.

If this is some kind of improvement, then I hope I never see another new
one again. I am planning to train an 800 pound monkey to take care of these
things. When he blows his top, dealing with all this, I intend to be a long
where, somewhere else!

Regards,
Mike

Capt. Mike Maurice
Wilsonville, Oregon (Portland).

I have just had a 12 round slugfest with a new Racor paper cartridge fuel system. 4 Units running 2 detroits. Two per engine. Here is my take. You are not going to like changing filters using the new filter bodies. There is a spring in the bottom that keeps the filter up high, makes it easier to get the element out. But, putting the filter in, getting lid and gasket ring back in place and getting the bowl filled with diesel will make an old cranky man out of you. You can be sure of spilling diesel big time with this. If you fill the bowl and put the filter in, fuel all over. If you put the filter in and fill the bowl, then when you push the filter down, while trying to juggle the lid, handle and gasket you will get about 2 cups of diesel splashed in your face. If you don't quite fill the bowl, then it is hard to know at what level to stop and yet have the filter covered. I suspect the solution is to fill to some arbitrary mark inside the housing, say 2 inches short and put the filter in. There is some idea in the community that you don't need to fill the bowls, but if you don't have fuel up to the top of the paper filament level then you won't be able to have use of all the paper element's capacity. This is still disregarding the chances for leaking air into the main line. But, the gasket does not want to stay put in the plastic cover. You need some grease to keep it from falling out and it is easy to get it cocked while you are tightening it. That will lead to an air leak. As if that was not enough the handle wants to slip loose and slide into the... what is that they call the hole in the boat underneath the engines? The black abyss, where nothing is every retrieved from? The culprits here are the plastic cover that does not cling to the gasket or the T handle. If this is some kind of improvement, then I hope I never see another new one again. I am planning to train an 800 pound monkey to take care of these things. When he blows his top, dealing with all this, I intend to be a long where, somewhere else! Regards, Mike Capt. Mike Maurice Wilsonville, Oregon (Portland).

SA

Steve Anderson

Fri, May 7, 2004 11:14 PM

Am I completely stupid (a rhetorical question) or couldn't one drill and tap
a bleed screw into the filter lid to bleed out the air after the lid is
secured?

<There is some idea in the community that you don't need to fill the bowls, but if you don't have fuel up to the top of the paper filament level then you won't be able to have use of all the paper element's capacity. This is still disregarding the chances for leaking air into the main line.> Am I completely stupid (a rhetorical question) or couldn't one drill and tap a bleed screw into the filter lid to bleed out the air after the lid is secured?

PG

Paul Goyette

Fri, May 7, 2004 11:50 PM

On Fri, 7 May 2004, Steve Anderson wrote:

Am I completely stupid (a rhetorical question) or couldn't one drill and tap
a bleed screw into the filter lid to bleed out the air after the lid is
secured?

Well, since the filter is under vacuum (the engine is pulling fuel
through, nothing is pushing), the bleed screw would only work if
the level in your tanks is above the top of the filter. And you
might have to shut off the outflow from the filter.

On Fri, 7 May 2004, Steve Anderson wrote: > Am I completely stupid (a rhetorical question) or couldn't one drill and tap > a bleed screw into the filter lid to bleed out the air after the lid is > secured? Well, since the filter is under vacuum (the engine is pulling fuel through, nothing is pushing), the bleed screw would only work if the level in your tanks is above the top of the filter. And you might have to shut off the outflow from the filter.

SA

Steve Anderson

Sat, May 8, 2004 2:01 AM

Am I completely stupid (a rhetorical question) or couldn't one drill and

tap

a bleed screw into the filter lid to bleed out the air after the lid is
secured?

Well, since the filter is under vacuum (the engine is pulling fuel
through, nothing is pushing), the bleed screw would only work if
the level in your tanks is above the top of the filter. And you
might have to shut off the outflow from the filter.

That is exactly my configuration on my Krogen. The filters are below the
bottom of the tanks so the weight of the fuel would push the air out of the
filters.

> Am I completely stupid (a rhetorical question) or couldn't one drill and tap > a bleed screw into the filter lid to bleed out the air after the lid is > secured? Well, since the filter is under vacuum (the engine is pulling fuel through, nothing is pushing), the bleed screw would only work if the level in your tanks is above the top of the filter. And you might have to shut off the outflow from the filter. That is exactly my configuration on my Krogen. The filters are below the bottom of the tanks so the weight of the fuel would push the air out of the filters.

PG

Paul Goyette

Sat, May 8, 2004 2:43 AM

On Fri, 7 May 2004, Steve Anderson wrote:

That is exactly my configuration on my Krogen. The filters are below the
bottom of the tanks so the weight of the fuel would push the air out of the
filters.

Yup, that'll work!

On my boat, the top of the filters is about 12 inches above the bottom
of the tanks, so I keep a gallon jug of fuel around for refilling the
Racor bowls. I only use it when the fuel level is below the filters;
usually gravity does the job just fine.

On Fri, 7 May 2004, Steve Anderson wrote: > That is exactly my configuration on my Krogen. The filters are below the > bottom of the tanks so the weight of the fuel would push the air out of the > filters. Yup, that'll work! On my boat, the top of the filters is about 12 inches above the bottom of the tanks, so I keep a gallon jug of fuel around for refilling the Racor bowls. I only use it when the fuel level is below the filters; usually gravity does the job just fine.

KH

Kurt Hanson

Sat, May 8, 2004 3:36 AM

I am seeking verification or a refutation of an assertion I heard.

"A boat running at displacement speeds will run faster in salt water than
fresh water at a given engine RPM."

The explanation I heard was that because salt water was more dense, the boat
rides higher and is pushing less water (volume) out of the way.

I will say I am skeptical because the water line length is virtually the
same in fresh vs salt and while the wetted area is slightly less (~1 - 2%?),
I am not sure how much difference it would make at 7 or 8 knots on a water
line length of 35 feet.

Any takers on this question?

Thanks,

Kurt Hanson

I am seeking verification or a refutation of an assertion I heard. "A boat running at displacement speeds will run faster in salt water than fresh water at a given engine RPM." The explanation I heard was that because salt water was more dense, the boat rides higher and is pushing less water (volume) out of the way. I will say I am skeptical because the water line length is virtually the same in fresh vs salt and while the wetted area is slightly less (~1 - 2%?), I am not sure how much difference it would make at 7 or 8 knots on a water line length of 35 feet. Any takers on this question? Thanks, Kurt Hanson

K

Keith

Sat, May 8, 2004 10:42 AM

When I installed my polishing system, I added a "T", ball valve and hose
nipple in the return line. It's right above the Racors on the Krogen. When I
change filters, I can just pump diesel right into the housings to prime
them. I still keep a jug of diesel around too, and fill it from this same
tap. Handy!

Keith
__
"Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature...
Life is either a daring adventure or nothing." -- Helen Keller
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Goyette" paul@whooppee.com

On my boat, the top of the filters is about 12 inches above the bottom
of the tanks, so I keep a gallon jug of fuel around for refilling the
Racor bowls. I only use it when the fuel level is below the filters;
usually gravity does the job just fine.

When I installed my polishing system, I added a "T", ball valve and hose nipple in the return line. It's right above the Racors on the Krogen. When I change filters, I can just pump diesel right into the housings to prime them. I still keep a jug of diesel around too, and fill it from this same tap. Handy! Keith __ "Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature... Life is either a daring adventure or nothing." -- Helen Keller ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Goyette" <paul@whooppee.com> > > On my boat, the top of the filters is about 12 inches above the bottom > of the tanks, so I keep a gallon jug of fuel around for refilling the > Racor bowls. I only use it when the fuel level is below the filters; > usually gravity does the job just fine.

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New Racor Fuel Filters