Al Giroux, Rick Kimball, Keith You have all asked similar questions, so I will try to answer all in one E-mail. Guess I am getting lazy. The locks should not be a problem. In all cases you will have to provide your own lines. (the Erie Canal does have lines hanging down from the walls, but they are so dirty and slimy we never use them.) We have gone through most of the locks in North America. After 229 different locks for a total of 529 lockings we always use the same 10' 1/2" piece of line for locking and a 30' 1/2" piece for unusual situations described below. Our technique is simple. If the lock is fitted with steel cables secured top and bottom, or has a pipe secured to the wall or has a floating bollard, we come alongside this item directly amidship. One end of the 10' line is secured to the amidship cleat and the other (bitter end) passed around the cable, pipe or floating bollard and returned to the same cleat where it is loosely cleated. A crew member stands by this line throughout the locking. As the vessel rises or drops, we slide up or down the walls using two LARGE fenders, one fore and one aft. Do not make the line too tight as the object is to just hold your boat close to the wall not pin it to the wall. On some locks at the top our vessels freeboard is 2-3 feet or more above the lock. At this time it is important to let out slack in the line so that you do not "tip your boat over". On some of the New York Canals where there are only loose dangling ropes, we come alongside one of the recessed ladders on the side of the lock and use basically the same procedure from amidship, except that we have to keep moving the line up or down one or two rungs at a time. There are two times when you will need to consider alternatives. Our vessel has nearly 6' of freeboard amidship. Thus when we come into a lock on the upper side it is often too far down for the crew member to reach the cable, pole or bollard. In these cases the first mate takes the 30' 1/2" line and holds a bitter end in each hand. With years of experience she flips the line over a distant bollard, ladder or cleat. (Sometimes 10' from the side of the lock wall). Then she secures one bitter end to the amidship cleat, pulls the line to just place a little tension on it and hold us against the wall, and loosely secures the other bitter end. Once we start going down she switches the line to the nearest cable, pole or bollard and we descend using the method outlined above. The final unusual locking situation is on the Rideau Canal. Here some of the very old locks raise the water in the lock until there is literally only 2-3 inches of wall for your vessel to rest against. Most fenders will just ride up over this short wall and your fiberglass hull will come in contact with the wall and may scratch it. In these cases, I bring my vessel alongside the wall and bring it to a complete stop a foot or so from the wall. The first mate steps off and moves amidship where she gently holds the vessel in place, not too close and not too far until the vessel drops below the lock wall. In the meantime, I lasso a bollard, ladder or cleat with the 30' line so that once she steps on board, I have the vessel lightly tied to the lock walls. It may sound complicated, but after a few times you will find it very easy. We see so many people struggle to get through a lock because they have one person on the bow and one on the stern and they both keep pulling the boat against the lock wall causing it to swing back and forth. Locking is easy and should be enjoyable. For charts and guides with prices and sources refer to one of my books. In each I list the appropriate chart and guide information, highlights, marina information and waterway highlights. They include New York Canal System, Rideau Canal and Trent Severn Canal. Bob Skipper Bob Publications Web page: Http://SkipperBob.home.att.net