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Broken bolt extraction suggestions

KT
Ken Tischler
Wed, Apr 5, 2006 1:59 PM

Need some quick help here. We are cruising from New Orleans to Panama
City (taking our newlywed son & daughter-in-law on honeymoon
cruise...at their request) and have run into a problem.

I had to replace the darn exhaust elbow on the port Lehman. Promptly
broke off the first bolt I tried to remove. The others came out fine.

So the question is, what is the best way to remove the bolt? Should I
try to drill it out? Go find a hardware store and get an easy-out?

Thanks,

--
Ken Tischler
Microship
Defever 49 RPH

Need some quick help here. We are cruising from New Orleans to Panama City (taking our newlywed son & daughter-in-law on honeymoon cruise...at their request) and have run into a problem. I had to replace the darn exhaust elbow on the port Lehman. Promptly broke off the first bolt I tried to remove. The others came out fine. So the question is, what is the best way to remove the bolt? Should I try to drill it out? Go find a hardware store and get an easy-out? Thanks, -- Ken Tischler Microship Defever 49 RPH
KW
Ken Williams
Wed, Apr 5, 2006 2:26 PM

This is what I would do.
If there is a "stud" left sticking out, I would heat up the metal around the
outside of the stud with a hand held propane torch. After its hot, place an
ice cube on the top of the stud. Try also to hold the ice on the stud while
heating the metal around it if you can. This method expands the metal around
the stud while contracting the stud itself or at least trying to keep it
cooler. Then use a vise grips on the stud for removal.
If the stud is broke, or flush with the surface, I would drill the hole and
prepare the stud for an "easy out", insert the easy out, then still heat up
the metal with the torch, and work the easy out to remove the stud. It might
come out easy, and it might not, just keep applying heat and work the
easyout. Don't break the easy out.
Worst case, I have once on a manifold drilled out the stud, and
re-drilled and tapped to the next size up. You will also have to increase
the size of the "other" mating hole. The one that the bolt goes through. It
did work for me. Maybe I was lucky!
Respectfully,
Ken Williams
KK42 continuum

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Tischler" ken@mvmicroship.com
To: "T&T" trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 8:59 AM
Subject: T&T: Broken bolt extraction suggestions

Need some quick help here. We are cruising from New Orleans to Panama
City (taking our newlywed son & daughter-in-law on honeymoon
cruise...at their request) and have run into a problem.

I had to replace the darn exhaust elbow on the port Lehman. Promptly
broke off the first bolt I tried to remove. The others came out fine.

So the question is, what is the best way to remove the bolt? Should I
try to drill it out? Go find a hardware store and get an easy-out?

Thanks,

--
Ken Tischler
Microship
Defever 49 RPH


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This is what I would do. If there is a "stud" left sticking out, I would heat up the metal around the outside of the stud with a hand held propane torch. After its hot, place an ice cube on the top of the stud. Try also to hold the ice on the stud while heating the metal around it if you can. This method expands the metal around the stud while contracting the stud itself or at least trying to keep it cooler. Then use a vise grips on the stud for removal. If the stud is broke, or flush with the surface, I would drill the hole and prepare the stud for an "easy out", insert the easy out, then still heat up the metal with the torch, and work the easy out to remove the stud. It might come out easy, and it might not, just keep applying heat and work the easyout. Don't break the easy out. Worst case, I have once on a manifold drilled out the stud, and re-drilled and tapped to the next size up. You will also have to increase the size of the "other" mating hole. The one that the bolt goes through. It did work for me. Maybe I was lucky! Respectfully, Ken Williams KK42 continuum ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Tischler" <ken@mvmicroship.com> To: "T&T" <trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com> Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 8:59 AM Subject: T&T: Broken bolt extraction suggestions > Need some quick help here. We are cruising from New Orleans to Panama > City (taking our newlywed son & daughter-in-law on honeymoon > cruise...at their request) and have run into a problem. > > I had to replace the darn exhaust elbow on the port Lehman. Promptly > broke off the first bolt I tried to remove. The others came out fine. > > So the question is, what is the best way to remove the bolt? Should I > try to drill it out? Go find a hardware store and get an easy-out? > > Thanks, > > -- > Ken Tischler > Microship > Defever 49 RPH > _______________________________________________ > http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers-and-trawlering > > To unsubscribe send email to > trawlers-and-trawlering-request@lists.samurai.com with the word > UNSUBSCRIBE and nothing else in the subject or body of the message. > > Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World > Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
SS
Steve Sipe
Wed, Apr 5, 2006 9:23 PM

Ken Williams wrote:

This is what I would do.
If there is a "stud" left sticking out, I would heat up the metal around the
outside of the stud with a hand held propane torch. After its hot, place an
ice cube on the top of the stud. Try also to hold the ice on the stud while
heating the metal around it if you can. This method expands the metal around
the stud while contracting the stud itself or at least trying to keep it
cooler. Then use a vise grips on the stud for removal.
If the stud is broke, or flush with the surface, I would drill the hole and
prepare the stud for an "easy out", insert the easy out, then still heat up
the metal with the torch, and work the easy out to remove the stud. It might
come out easy, and it might not, just keep applying heat and work the
easyout. Don't break the easy out.
Worst case, I have once on a manifold drilled out the stud, and
re-drilled and tapped to the next size up. You will also have to increase
the size of the "other" mating hole. The one that the bolt goes through. It
did work for me. Maybe I was lucky!
Respectfully,
Ken Williams
KK42 continuum

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Tischler" ken@mvmicroship.com
To: "T&T" trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 8:59 AM
Subject: T&T: Broken bolt extraction suggestions

I've used the heat method successfully with the variation that I usually
blow liquid refrigerant onto the bolt. It's colder (-40 F) and faster.
Not 100% politically correct, but then the language required for such
endeavors can hardly be PC, either.

If you need to drill the old one out & re-tap, you may be able to use a
stud that has two different thread sizes to avoid getting into
re-vamping the piece you're attaching. If you must drill out the stud,
another option is a heli-coil insert
http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html. It will enable you to
retain the original configuration & sizes, even possibly remove the stud
at some point in the future. You may want to use anti-seize on the new
bolts/studs.

Bless you, you are about to embark on a religious experience.

steve sipe

Ken Williams wrote: > This is what I would do. > If there is a "stud" left sticking out, I would heat up the metal around the > outside of the stud with a hand held propane torch. After its hot, place an > ice cube on the top of the stud. Try also to hold the ice on the stud while > heating the metal around it if you can. This method expands the metal around > the stud while contracting the stud itself or at least trying to keep it > cooler. Then use a vise grips on the stud for removal. > If the stud is broke, or flush with the surface, I would drill the hole and > prepare the stud for an "easy out", insert the easy out, then still heat up > the metal with the torch, and work the easy out to remove the stud. It might > come out easy, and it might not, just keep applying heat and work the > easyout. Don't break the easy out. > Worst case, I have once on a manifold drilled out the stud, and > re-drilled and tapped to the next size up. You will also have to increase > the size of the "other" mating hole. The one that the bolt goes through. It > did work for me. Maybe I was lucky! > Respectfully, > Ken Williams > KK42 continuum > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ken Tischler" <ken@mvmicroship.com> > To: "T&T" <trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com> > Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 8:59 AM > Subject: T&T: Broken bolt extraction suggestions > I've used the heat method successfully with the variation that I usually blow liquid refrigerant onto the bolt. It's colder (-40 F) and faster. Not 100% politically correct, but then the language required for such endeavors can hardly be PC, either. If you need to drill the old one out & re-tap, you may be able to use a stud that has two different thread sizes to avoid getting into re-vamping the piece you're attaching. If you must drill out the stud, another option is a heli-coil insert <http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html>. It will enable you to retain the original configuration & sizes, even possibly remove the stud at some point in the future. You may want to use anti-seize on the new bolts/studs. Bless you, you are about to embark on a religious experience. steve sipe
T
trawlerphil
Wed, Apr 5, 2006 10:53 PM

My lifetime experience with easy-outs is dismal, but whenever I have a
"stud" left, I simply weld a larger nut to the stud and out it comes!

                                      Regards....

Phil Rosch
Old Harbor Consulting
M/V "Curmudgeon" MT44 TC
Currently lying Bond Creek, NC

My lifetime experience with easy-outs is dismal, but whenever I have a "stud" left, I simply weld a larger nut to the stud and out it comes! Regards.... Phil Rosch Old Harbor Consulting M/V "Curmudgeon" MT44 TC Currently lying Bond Creek, NC
B
Blake
Wed, Apr 5, 2006 11:32 PM

I agree as the next problem you will undoubtedly encounter is a broken
easyout in the stud.  Try drilling that out for fun.  If you use one don't
go cheap, go see the Mac or Snap-on guy.  WD-40 and patience might be an
option as well, it has the ability to amaze sometimes

Blake Carey
Everett, WA

-----Original Message-----
From: trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com
[mailto:trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com] On Behalf Of
trawlerphil
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 3:53 PM
To: 'T&T'
Subject: Re: T&T: Broken bolt extraction suggestions

My lifetime experience with easy-outs is dismal, but whenever I have a
"stud" left, I simply weld a larger nut to the stud and out it comes!

                                      Regards....

Phil Rosch
Old Harbor Consulting
M/V "Curmudgeon" MT44 TC
Currently lying Bond Creek, NC


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Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World
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I agree as the next problem you will undoubtedly encounter is a broken easyout in the stud. Try drilling that out for fun. If you use one don't go cheap, go see the Mac or Snap-on guy. WD-40 and patience might be an option as well, it has the ability to amaze sometimes Blake Carey Everett, WA -----Original Message----- From: trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com [mailto:trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com] On Behalf Of trawlerphil Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 3:53 PM To: 'T&T' Subject: Re: T&T: Broken bolt extraction suggestions My lifetime experience with easy-outs is dismal, but whenever I have a "stud" left, I simply weld a larger nut to the stud and out it comes! Regards.... Phil Rosch Old Harbor Consulting M/V "Curmudgeon" MT44 TC Currently lying Bond Creek, NC _______________________________________________ http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers-and-trawlering To unsubscribe send email to trawlers-and-trawlering-request@lists.samurai.com with the word UNSUBSCRIBE and nothing else in the subject or body of the message. Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
RR
Ron Rogers
Wed, Apr 5, 2006 11:45 PM

If you haven't tried a penetrant, you should try PB Blaster (from auto parts
store) or Kroil (online.)

Ron Rogers

If you haven't tried a penetrant, you should try PB Blaster (from auto parts store) or Kroil (online.) Ron Rogers