If someone had told me (well someone, Todd, did tell me) the San Blas Islands of Panama would be paradise, I would have thought "surely they can't be as good as a S. Pacific Island like Tahiti or Fiji. Well, since I've never been there so I can't compare, but I'd find it hard to believe they would have anything on the San Blas, but I'm getting ahead of myself. On Friday we left Shelter Bay for Portobelo, a short 20 mile trip in lumpy head seas. I'd read a number of books about the Spanish Main and Portobelo held a unique interest for me. I was also in the midst of reading "Portobelo Chronicles" by Patricia McGehee. A local resident of Portobelo, she has captured the history of this town, and the Spanish Main in a very unique way. As we rounded the point and entered the harbor I was captured by the beauty of the bay. I couldn't help think about Columbus and how he must have viewed the scene when he entered this haven after battling a tropical storm on his 4th and final voyage. Also knowing Morgan and a half dozen other pirates had frequented the island, and in fact that Sir Francis Drake was buried at sea in a lead coffin added to the fascination. After anchoring we tendered into town and visited the museum, the Church of the Black Christ (people travel on their hands and knees from as far as Costa Rica to worship the statue of Christ) and the old fortifications of the town. I was struck by two things, the beauty of the surroundings and a sadness that the current residents seemed to care a less about the rich history of this cherished town and did little or nothing to make the town presentable. I guess the poverty of the townspeople dictates their struggle for survival leaves little in reserve for such niceties as clean streets and period restoration. Regardless, we felt the environment was rich in history. So back to the boat for a good nights sleep. One thing Marian and I became quite good at was putting out the "flopper stopper" to keep the boat from rolling at anchorage. Little did I know the delightful anchorage in Portobelo (no flopper stopper required) was just a prelude to our coming experience in the San Blas. We left Portobelo at 6:30 am for a 60 mile trip to Chichime All the way it was a slog against 2 to 4 foot steep chop, just about right on the nose. I tucked in behind Isla Linton and Isla Grande to get an hour of relief from the pounding. Marian had taken two Dramamine and was fast asleep. Isla Linton has to be one of the most beautiful spots on the coast of Panama. If I had the trip to do again, I'd go visit Portobelo, but anchor for the night at Linton. So, we round the headland and make a few degrees more East and the sea state eases for the next 5 hours. As we were within an hour of Chichime I was trying to figure out how we were going to anchor in a small lagoon with this kind of sea state? I couldn't for the life of me see how a small island and coral reef was going to calm the swells to the point of providing a comfortable anchorage. I was completely flabbergasted as we navigated the narrow entrance and found ourselves in 30 feet of crystal clear, emerald green water with not a ripple on the surface. Well, maybe there was a ripple, but that's all there was. No surge, no swell, no flopperstoper, no boat wakes, NOTHING! It was like the most peaceful spot on earth, emerald green waters surrounded by white sand islands topped with swaying palm trees and grass huts, housing the local Kuna! We shared the anchorage with 4 other sailboats and had a delightful time. We got our first visit from the Kuna tribe members. We didn't buy anything, as we didn't know the difference between a good mola and a bad one. Now we have gotten an education in Molas so we are ready to buy! If your curious about Molas, google Kuna Mola and you can read all about them. The next day we traveled to the Eastern Holandes Cays, where we are now anchored in a spot they call the Hot Tub. It's a delightful anchorage surrounded by a coral reef, crystal clear water (Im making water even as we chat) and the best snorkeling in the islands. Again, all with FLAT CALM water, no flopper stopper and the boat feels like it's on the hard. Absolutely the most amazing tropical anchorage experience of a lifetime. There are 4 boats all spread out with 3 or 400 feet between us. Tonight we will join boats from the surrounding anchorages for a BBQ on an island that will give us an amazing view of the Caribbean and the emerald green waters surrounding us. Ok, got to run, water tanks are full, batteries are topped off and the snorkeling is about to begin! Scott Bulger, Alanui, N40II, Seattle WA Caobos Cay, San Blas Islands, Panama

Any idea when you are heading North, Scott? It turns out I could probably be in Panama on Monday next. Hal > -----Original Message----- > From: passagemaking-under-power-bounces@lists.samurai.com > [mailto:passagemaking-under-power-bounces@lists.samurai.com] On Behalf > Of Scott E. Bulger > Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 13:45 > To: 'Passagemaking Under Power List' > Subject: [PUP] Paradise found? > > If someone had told me (well someone, Todd, did tell me) the San Blas > Islands of Panama would be paradise, I would have thought "surely they > can't