I belong to another list and this recently came up as an answer to
replacing your NeverCold fridge. Sounds like a great option to spending all the
extra $$$$$ for a Norcold.
I know when mine gives up the ghost I'll go with this option, hopefully
they will still be making these units!
Todd & Brenda Lanning
Life's2Short
1985 40' Oceania Trawler
btlifes2short@aol.com
Check out our blog @ http://btlifes2short.blogspot.com
(http://btlifes2short.blogspot.com/)
Currently: Blue Bluff Landing, Tenn-Tom Waterway, MS. Bay Springs Lake
by this weekend!
"I've spent most of my money on boating & women. The rest I've just
wasted!"
Installation:
I've installed a Haier 4.6 compact 115VAC refrigerator, replacing our very
old and noisy Norcold which gave up the ghost on
our last trip. Guests sleeping in the salon in the future will sleep
well, as this Haier is almost soundless. When I turned it on, I
thought I had a problem as I could not hear it until I put my head
right on it!
We will run it through our 2500 W inverter when out of the slip.
$149. at Walmart's is a lot better than well over $1,300 for another
Norcold.
The interesting thing is you can only buy this model: ESRNO46BB (BB is
for black) at Walmart. It is not even in the Haier website, as it was
made to Walmart's specifications, requiring compliance with the energy
star rating, which I felt was important.
The Haier HNSEO5BB is the same fridge except that it has a motor to
drive the compressor and is therefore non compliant with energy star
specs. The one I bought runs the compressor with solid state
circuitry and Haier assured me the capability is the same as the
HNSEO5BB, only it's quieter. What's not to like about that!?
The compressor is guaranteed for 5 years.
I rigged two teak mounting strips that were left from the Norcold
installation, with bolts that slip into two holes in the steel
mounting bar under the fridge's rear end. These lock the fridge in so
it can't slide out. I replaced the front left leveling adjustor (too
short) with a hex head metric bolt that matched the threads, I then
added some small "L" shaped pieces of the foam packing it came with to
eliminate any sideways or vertical movement in heavy seas.
As I wanted the door to swing open away from the galley, I changed the
hinges and found that to be an easy job.
There is approximately 2" of space in the enclosure on both sides, and
on the top and bottom. At the rear, opposite the vent to the outside,
there is a bit over 5" for air circulation. For good measure I
drilled a bunch of half inch holes, top and middle, through the
bulkhead separating the fridge enclosure from the space under the
sink. There were already three 2" circular holes high in that
bulkhead. The power cord goes through the rear one.
I found some nice thin teak strips at a ship chandlery to dress up the
front openings around the fridge.
Power draw test:
At 12 noon today, Jan 6, 2009, I ended the test at 71 hours, three
more than I would need for my average trip.
The total amp hours used was (-165.9 amp hrs). During the test I ran
lights and power tools to at least approximate usage during an actual
trip. I did not turn on the microwave, toaster or coffee maker.
With everything off before I switched back on shore power, the Link 10
volt display showed: 12.30 / .35 VDC
on the house set.
The Link time left display showed 122.8 or a tad less than half of the
255 total.
Average amp hours for the test were 2.3 and 1.1 of that is the
inverter, so the fridge ran @ 1.2 amp hours
per hour.
Guess I can throw away the box!
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