Empathy List Archives

BM

Bill Martin

Sun, Nov 23, 2003 11:36 PM

Well, I set out to do some oil changes today. The PO of my boat installed
a nice system with a 12v pump and some valves and hoses to pump the oil out
of the various engines via fittings on the drain plugs. Technically I
suppose it could also pump in fresh oil but I never felt the urge to try that.

Anyhow, although it's worked well for many years, it picked today to
die. The motor blows 25A fuses in seconds now. I've dissected the
electric motor et al, but nothing obvious is wrong with it -- brushes are
good, bearings seem ok. Yet after reassembly the thing draws over 10A just
spinning free with no pump attached. I don't know how much over since 10A
is where my meter gives up and pegs. I don't know what it should draw but
that seems excessive for no load.

I'm inclined to give up and just replace the motor/pump assembly. But of
course it's some unknown manufacturer long out of business now. Which
brings me to my question.

Is there anything in particular that one should look for in a pump to move
engine oil about? Anything to watch out for? The one that I'm replacing
was not rated for continuous operation which I'm not happy about, and it
was not rated for flammable liquids. It was a vane pump that was
presumably designed to move water. It would seem that oil, being somewhat
more viscous, is harder to pump than water but that's simply conjecture on
my part. And I don't really care about flow rate.

I did stop at an auto parts store and asked if they had 12v oil transfer
pumps. Apparently they've never heard of such a thing. At that point I
was tempted to just get a 12v fuel pump which they would have, but I
thought I'd check the collective wisdom of the crowd here first. Any
reason not to use a fuel pump? Anything obviously better?

Thanks....

Bill Martin
m/v Telegraph Hill
http://home.earthlink.net/~martinwj/

Well, I set out to do some oil changes today. The PO of my boat installed a nice system with a 12v pump and some valves and hoses to pump the oil out of the various engines via fittings on the drain plugs. Technically I suppose it could also pump in fresh oil but I never felt the urge to try that. Anyhow, although it's worked well for many years, it picked today to die. The motor blows 25A fuses in seconds now. I've dissected the electric motor et al, but nothing obvious is wrong with it -- brushes are good, bearings seem ok. Yet after reassembly the thing draws over 10A just spinning free with no pump attached. I don't know how much over since 10A is where my meter gives up and pegs. I don't know what it should draw but that seems excessive for no load. I'm inclined to give up and just replace the motor/pump assembly. But of course it's some unknown manufacturer long out of business now. Which brings me to my question. Is there anything in particular that one should look for in a pump to move engine oil about? Anything to watch out for? The one that I'm replacing was not rated for continuous operation which I'm not happy about, and it was not rated for flammable liquids. It was a vane pump that was presumably designed to move water. It would seem that oil, being somewhat more viscous, is harder to pump than water but that's simply conjecture on my part. And I don't really care about flow rate. I did stop at an auto parts store and asked if they had 12v oil transfer pumps. Apparently they've never heard of such a thing. At that point I was tempted to just get a 12v fuel pump which they would have, but I thought I'd check the collective wisdom of the crowd here first. Any reason not to use a fuel pump? Anything obviously better? Thanks.... Bill Martin m/v Telegraph Hill http://home.earthlink.net/~martinwj/

K

Keith

Sun, Nov 23, 2003 11:46 PM

Check out: http://www.x-change-r.com/

Keith
__
Health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Martin" martinwj@earthlink.net
Anything obviously better?

Check out: http://www.x-change-r.com/ Keith __ Health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Martin" <martinwj@earthlink.net> Anything obviously better? > >

CC

Charles Culotta

Mon, Nov 24, 2003 12:59 AM

a 12v pump and some valves and hoses to pump the oil out

of the various engines

. The motor blows 25A fuses in seconds now. I've dissected the

electric motor et al, but nothing obvious is wrong with it

Bill,
Try what I do.
I never replace a starter motor nor alternator. I take them to the local
starter repair shop and have them repaired at a fraction of the cost of a
new or rebuilt unit.

CCC
M/V CC RIDER
CHARLES C. and PAT CULOTTA, Jr.
Patterson, La.
http://www.geocities.com/charlesculotta/

a 12v pump and some valves and hoses to pump the oil out > of the various engines . The motor blows 25A fuses in seconds now. I've dissected the > electric motor et al, but nothing obvious is wrong with it Bill, Try what I do. I never replace a starter motor nor alternator. I take them to the local starter repair shop and have them repaired at a fraction of the cost of a new or rebuilt unit. CCC M/V CC RIDER CHARLES C. and PAT CULOTTA, Jr. Patterson, La. http://www.geocities.com/charlesculotta/

JA

John and Judy Tones

Mon, Nov 24, 2003 2:21 AM

Bill - while Charles has a great suggestion you may want to replace the pump
assembly with one that you know is rated for oil changes.
Jabsco list one for this purpose and it is reversable. The part number is
45710-1000 and is rated at 5 GPM at a 3 ft. head. If you want to go whole
hog they also make a "heavy duty" version that is rated at 12 GPM but it is
not rated as being ignition protected.

I just ordered the normal pump for our boat and had the catalog on the desk
still.
Safe boating

John Tones MV Penta
Sidney, BC

Bill - while Charles has a great suggestion you may want to replace the pump assembly with one that you know is rated for oil changes. Jabsco list one for this purpose and it is reversable. The part number is 45710-1000 and is rated at 5 GPM at a 3 ft. head. If you want to go whole hog they also make a "heavy duty" version that is rated at 12 GPM but it is not rated as being ignition protected. I just ordered the normal pump for our boat and had the catalog on the desk still. Safe boating John Tones MV Penta Sidney, BC

A

Annieseztoo

Mon, Nov 24, 2003 6:37 PM

Is there anything in particular that one should look for in a pump to move
engine oil about? Anything to watch out for? The one that I'm replacing
was not rated for continuous operation which I'm not happy about, and it
was not rated for flammable liquids. It was a vane pump that was
presumably designed to move water. It would seem that oil, being somewhat
more viscous, is harder to pump than water but that's simply conjecture on
my part. And I don't really care about flow rate.

Bill,
I used a Grainger's 12V flexible impeller pump on my home built oil change
system. The pump is normally used to pump water, is not rated for flammable
liquids such as gasoline, but it is rated for oil with a different impeller.
I bought the oil rated impeller and tossed it in the parts box thinking I
would replace it when the original water rated impeller quit. It is still
there 12 years later. It sees so little use that the water rated impeller is
still holding up.
Be aware that flow rates are usually given for water at zero head. Lifting
oil will reduce the flow rate considerably. Finally don't worry about a
continuous rating. These things only run for 5 min. or less every time you
change the oil.

Just my experience, YMMV

Walt Konieczko
Annie Sez Too 34 Marine Trader
Lanoka Harbor, NJ

> Is there anything in particular that one should look for in a pump to move > engine oil about? Anything to watch out for? The one that I'm replacing > was not rated for continuous operation which I'm not happy about, and it > was not rated for flammable liquids. It was a vane pump that was > presumably designed to move water. It would seem that oil, being somewhat > more viscous, is harder to pump than water but that's simply conjecture on > my part. And I don't really care about flow rate. > Bill, I used a Grainger's 12V flexible impeller pump on my home built oil change system. The pump is normally used to pump water, is not rated for flammable liquids such as gasoline, but it is rated for oil with a different impeller. I bought the oil rated impeller and tossed it in the parts box thinking I would replace it when the original water rated impeller quit. It is still there 12 years later. It sees so little use that the water rated impeller is still holding up. Be aware that flow rates are usually given for water at zero head. Lifting oil will reduce the flow rate considerably. Finally don't worry about a continuous rating. These things only run for 5 min. or less every time you change the oil. Just my experience, YMMV Walt Konieczko Annie Sez Too 34 Marine Trader Lanoka Harbor, NJ

trawlers@lists.trawlering.com

TWL: Oil Change Pump