TWL: Fly Bridge Enclosures & canvas
I am in the process of having a hardtop made for the flying bridge -
seagulls having destroyed the current enclosure which was admittedly on
it's last legs. Although not cheap a hardtop seems so much better for
antenna support, durability, watertightness, etc. Now of course I have
to redo the side curtains etc.
Has anyone good thoughts on design features to look for in enclosure
curtains? 40 mil Stratoglass seems like the way to go - but expensive.
One outfit here suggests using it only on the front and 20 mil on the
sides and back - another says it is best to have it all around. Another
suggestion was using cloth for the ties that hold the rolled up
curtains, less abrasive. Fabric is another issue. I hate the "mildew"
look. Is Stamoid the way to go? Again it costs a little more than other
vinyls. How about beading v. the shirtcuff edging for the vinyl frames?
I've experimnted with frowns and like them much better than the "smiles"
I see everyone using on the front panels. I just unzip them and let them
drop inside - no rolling required. All input appreciated decisions have
to be made in a few days -- thanks.
Ron Barr
M/V Lady Brookhaven
42" Hatteras LRC
Westport MA. USA
[mailto:owner-trawler-world-list@samurai.com]On Behalf Of ronald barr
I am in the process of having a hardtop made for the flying bridge -
seagulls having destroyed the current enclosure which was admittedly on
it's last legs. Although not cheap a hardtop seems so much better for
antenna support, durability, watertightness, etc. Now of course I have
to redo the side curtains etc.
I'm just finishing up the hardtop on my boat, which was built from 1/4" X
3/4" cedar strips, bent over a frame to give it the nice compound curve
(automotive style) roof. Ever heard of a strip-built canoe or kayak? Like
that. I covered it with a layer of 6 oz. epoxy-coated cloth inside and out,
and gave it some mahogany rails all 'round. The aft end kind of kicks up a
bit, sort of spoiler-esque, for that go-fast look. It pretty strong, and
doesn't weigh much, and looks fantastic on the inside, as I left it bright.
Front windshield was scavenged from an '84 Ford van- about $100 from a
junkyard. Side windows are surplus RV windows, and "windwings" are 3/16"
acrylic. A more detailed spec (with pics) is available on request...
So this brings up a question that has been running around in my head... How
important is the flybridge? Are most flybridge-equipped trawlers piloted
from there the majority of the time, only using the inside station during
the most foul of weather? Is a burlier flybridge preferable to a minimal
one? What about the weight that far from the moment arm?
As I design up the trawler of my dreams, these are important questions!
Thanks!
Doug Barnard
rebuilding a 20' Skipjack
"Fiesta Bimbo"
trawler-crawler wannabe
Hello Doug,
My 2 cents worth....
I lived on our flybridge. I would only go "inside" when forced by the worst
weather. And on those days I would not even pull up the anchor. (I would
pull up a good book instead.)
To each their own... but for me to cruise along in the pilothouse was
missing out on the whole outdoors element. I'll also note that on my boat
(40' Marine trader) I could not see real well from the lower bridge. I have
been on boats where the pilot house was the place to be, where I could see
well, and it was comfortable. My boat however was not. So I lived at the
upper helm with the sun shining, the wind in my hair, and 360 degree great
visibility.
About the complex vs simple upper bridge: Anything you place on the upper
bridge is going to be kept "outdoors" year round and will last that must
less longer unless very well protected. I would suggest placing your
electronics and other instruments in as sheltered and prtoected a location
as possible. We placed many of ours under a simple sheet of plexiglass that
kept them from getting rained on. Not rocket science, but it helped keep
everything dry.
To each their own. The best boat in the world is the one you are standing
on!
Charles Bell
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-trawler-world-list@samurai.com
[mailto:owner-trawler-world-list@samurai.com]On Behalf Of Doug Barnard
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 12:52 PM
To: ronald barr; trawler-world-list@samurai.com
Subject: TWL: RE: Fly Bridge Enclosures & canvas
[mailto:owner-trawler-world-list@samurai.com]On Behalf Of ronald barr
I am in the process of having a hardtop made for the flying bridge -
seagulls having destroyed the current enclosure which was admittedly on
it's last legs. Although not cheap a hardtop seems so much better for
antenna support, durability, watertightness, etc. Now of course I have
to redo the side curtains etc.
I'm just finishing up the hardtop on my boat, which was built from 1/4" X
3/4" cedar strips, bent over a frame to give it the nice compound curve
(automotive style) roof. Ever heard of a strip-built canoe or kayak? Like
that. I covered it with a layer of 6 oz. epoxy-coated cloth inside and out,
and gave it some mahogany rails all 'round. The aft end kind of kicks up a
bit, sort of spoiler-esque, for that go-fast look. It pretty strong, and
doesn't weigh much, and looks fantastic on the inside, as I left it bright.
Front windshield was scavenged from an '84 Ford van- about $100 from a
junkyard. Side windows are surplus RV windows, and "windwings" are 3/16"
acrylic. A more detailed spec (with pics) is available on request...
So this brings up a question that has been running around in my head... How
important is the flybridge? Are most flybridge-equipped trawlers piloted
from there the majority of the time, only using the inside station during
the most foul of weather? Is a burlier flybridge preferable to a minimal
one? What about the weight that far from the moment arm?
As I design up the trawler of my dreams, these are important questions!
Thanks!
Doug Barnard
rebuilding a 20' Skipjack
"Fiesta Bimbo"
trawler-crawler wannabe