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Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement

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Conducting Bench Top Material

B
Brucekareen@aol.com
Mon, Jan 25, 2010 3:42 PM

My electronic bench is an old commercial one made with steel stampings and
a steel top covered with Masonite.  The Masonite is still in fair
condition.  Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an  asset in
avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static  discharges when
handling modern semiconductors.  Would it make sense  to spray the Masonite
with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to  make the masonite
slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC  connections could not
safely rest upon it?  Is there a better-suited  material that could be used
to replace the Masonite?

Ironically, in the 1960's, Transite (asbestos) was sometimes used as a
covering for electronic benches as as it was resistant to molten  solder.  The
downside was that in sliding heavy equipment around,  friable material could
be released.

Bruce Hunter

My electronic bench is an old commercial one made with steel stampings and a steel top covered with Masonite. The Masonite is still in fair condition. Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an asset in avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static discharges when handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray the Masonite with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make the masonite slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC connections could not safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that could be used to replace the Masonite? Ironically, in the 1960's, Transite (asbestos) was sometimes used as a covering for electronic benches as as it was resistant to molten solder. The downside was that in sliding heavy equipment around, friable material could be released. Bruce Hunter
RD
Robert Darlington
Mon, Jan 25, 2010 4:24 PM

I use "Stat-Les" anti-static floor finish on my benches.  You can find it at
Legge Systems,
http://www.leggesystems.com/c-177-static-control-floor-care-products.aspx
The price is pretty good for the 1 quart size bottles ($20 or so) and that
does a lot of benches.

-Bob, N3XKB

On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 8:42 AM, Brucekareen@aol.com wrote:

My electronic bench is an old commercial one made with steel stampings and
a steel top covered with Masonite.  The Masonite is still in fair
condition.  Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an
asset in
avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static  discharges when
handling modern semiconductors.  Would it make sense  to spray the Masonite
with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to  make the masonite
slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC  connections could
not
safely rest upon it?  Is there a better-suited  material that could be used
to replace the Masonite?

Ironically, in the 1960's, Transite (asbestos) was sometimes used as a
covering for electronic benches as as it was resistant to molten  solder.
The
downside was that in sliding heavy equipment around,  friable material
could
be released.

Bruce Hunter


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and follow the instructions there.

I use "Stat-Les" anti-static floor finish on my benches. You can find it at Legge Systems, http://www.leggesystems.com/c-177-static-control-floor-care-products.aspx The price is pretty good for the 1 quart size bottles ($20 or so) and that does a lot of benches. -Bob, N3XKB On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 8:42 AM, <Brucekareen@aol.com> wrote: > My electronic bench is an old commercial one made with steel stampings and > a steel top covered with Masonite. The Masonite is still in fair > condition. Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an > asset in > avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static discharges when > handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray the Masonite > with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make the masonite > slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC connections could > not > safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that could be used > to replace the Masonite? > > Ironically, in the 1960's, Transite (asbestos) was sometimes used as a > covering for electronic benches as as it was resistant to molten solder. > The > downside was that in sliding heavy equipment around, friable material > could > be released. > > Bruce Hunter > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
CP
Charles P. Steinmetz
Mon, Jan 25, 2010 6:27 PM

Bruce wrote:

Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an  asset in
avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static  discharges when
handling modern semiconductors.  Would it make sense  to spray the Masonite
with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to  make the masonite
slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC  connections
could not
safely rest upon it?  Is there a better-suited  material that could be used
to replace the Masonite?

I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use
anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try
to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less
in the winter).  I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35
years and haven't lost one to static yet.  With that perspective, my
preferred benchtop is white Formica with a very, very slightly
pebbled surface.  Very durable, including to molten solder, and small
parts show up well.  I use rubberized "gunsmith" mats for preventing
scratches to delicate workpieces (these happen to be anti-static, but
that is not why I have them).

Other bench thoughts:

Bench depth is very important.  I sometimes work on equipment that is
more than 24" deep, so I want at least 30" of clear space in front of
any obstructions (power strips, Variac, test equipment,
whatever).  In the past, I used a "flying bridge" over the rear 18"
of a 48"-deep bench to elevate the test equipment, which worked very
well.  Now I use 24" deep adjustable wire-rack shelving units behind
a 30" benchtop (As others have pointed out, you can do the same with
equipment racks -- I'm not a fan of rack-mounting test equipment
unless the racks are anchored and everything is on slides, which I
was not prepared to do).  I don't have enough shop real estate to
have a permanent access aisle behind the test equipment, so the bench
and racks have large (5") locking polyurethane wheels and can be
pulled out relatively easily for reconfiguration.  This provides
plenty of stability for electronic projects, but you wouldn't want to
mount a big vise on the bench and try to bend 1" rebar.  For that, I
have a separate metalworking shop.

Bench height is also important.  I prefer a tall bench, suited to
working standing or sitting on an ergonomic stool, so my bench top is
44" above the floor -- a bit below my standing elbow height.

Finally, one can never have too many power outlets, or too much
light, in a workshop.  Lighting should be arranged so that it doesn't
cause specular reflections from the workpiece or the faces of test equipment.

Best regards,

Charles

Bruce wrote: >Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an asset in >avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static discharges when >handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray the Masonite >with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make the masonite >slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC connections >could not >safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that could be used >to replace the Masonite? I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less in the winter). I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35 years and haven't lost one to static yet. With that perspective, my preferred benchtop is white Formica with a very, very slightly pebbled surface. Very durable, including to molten solder, and small parts show up well. I use rubberized "gunsmith" mats for preventing scratches to delicate workpieces (these happen to be anti-static, but that is not why I have them). Other bench thoughts: Bench depth is very important. I sometimes work on equipment that is more than 24" deep, so I want at least 30" of clear space in front of any obstructions (power strips, Variac, test equipment, whatever). In the past, I used a "flying bridge" over the rear 18" of a 48"-deep bench to elevate the test equipment, which worked very well. Now I use 24" deep adjustable wire-rack shelving units behind a 30" benchtop (As others have pointed out, you can do the same with equipment racks -- I'm not a fan of rack-mounting test equipment unless the racks are anchored and everything is on slides, which I was not prepared to do). I don't have enough shop real estate to have a permanent access aisle behind the test equipment, so the bench and racks have large (5") locking polyurethane wheels and can be pulled out relatively easily for reconfiguration. This provides plenty of stability for electronic projects, but you wouldn't want to mount a big vise on the bench and try to bend 1" rebar. For that, I have a separate metalworking shop. Bench height is also important. I prefer a tall bench, suited to working standing or sitting on an ergonomic stool, so my bench top is 44" above the floor -- a bit below my standing elbow height. Finally, one can never have too many power outlets, or too much light, in a workshop. Lighting should be arranged so that it doesn't cause specular reflections from the workpiece or the faces of test equipment. Best regards, Charles
PK
Poul-Henning Kamp
Mon, Jan 25, 2010 6:31 PM

In message 20100125182712.7014911B858@karen.lavabit.com, "Charles P. Steinmet
z" writes:

Bruce wrote:

I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use
anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary [...]

My worktable has a surface of hardwood-floor-boards and a painted
steel profile on the front that I make point out of touching before
sticking my fingers into any sensitive circuits.  Works for me.

--
Poul-Henning Kamp      | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
phk@FreeBSD.ORG        | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer      | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.

In message <20100125182712.7014911B858@karen.lavabit.com>, "Charles P. Steinmet z" writes: >Bruce wrote: >I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use >anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary [...] My worktable has a surface of hardwood-floor-boards and a painted steel profile on the front that I make point out of touching before sticking my fingers into any sensitive circuits. Works for me. -- Poul-Henning Kamp | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20 phk@FreeBSD.ORG | TCP/IP since RFC 956 FreeBSD committer | BSD since 4.3-tahoe Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.
RD
Robert Darlington
Mon, Jan 25, 2010 6:32 PM

Hi Charles,

I'm in a similar boat where I've worked with static sensitive parts without
any problems without having so much as put on a wrist strap.  It's just
never been an issue, even with our RH sitting around 12% here in New
Mexico.  I've been shoulder deep in Cray and SGI supercomputers without
worrying about it.  Then the day came where I needed to do surgery on my
network analyzer.  I figured the $20 for the coating was cheap insurance.  I
don't have $37k sitting around to replace it should I fry it.  That was the
first time I ever put on a wrist strap too!

-Bob

On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 11:27 AM, Charles P. Steinmetz <
charles_steinmetz@lavabit.com> wrote:

Bruce wrote:

Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an  asset in

avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static  discharges
when
handling modern semiconductors.  Would it make sense  to spray the
Masonite
with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to  make the
masonite
slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC  connections could
not
safely rest upon it?  Is there a better-suited  material that could be
used
to replace the Masonite?

I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use
anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try to
keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less in the
winter).  I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35 years and
haven't lost one to static yet.  With that perspective, my preferred
benchtop is white Formica with a very, very slightly pebbled surface.  Very
durable, including to molten solder, and small parts show up well.  I use
rubberized "gunsmith" mats for preventing scratches to delicate workpieces
(these happen to be anti-static, but that is not why I have them).

Other bench thoughts:

Bench depth is very important.  I sometimes work on equipment that is more
than 24" deep, so I want at least 30" of clear space in front of any
obstructions (power strips, Variac, test equipment, whatever).  In the past,
I used a "flying bridge" over the rear 18" of a 48"-deep bench to elevate
the test equipment, which worked very well.  Now I use 24" deep adjustable
wire-rack shelving units behind a 30" benchtop (As others have pointed out,
you can do the same with equipment racks -- I'm not a fan of rack-mounting
test equipment unless the racks are anchored and everything is on slides,
which I was not prepared to do).  I don't have enough shop real estate to
have a permanent access aisle behind the test equipment, so the bench and
racks have large (5") locking polyurethane wheels and can be pulled out
relatively easily for reconfiguration.  This provides plenty of stability
for electronic projects, but you wouldn't want to mount a big vise on the
bench and try to bend 1" rebar.  For that, I have a separate metalworking
shop.

Bench height is also important.  I prefer a tall bench, suited to working
standing or sitting on an ergonomic stool, so my bench top is 44" above the
floor -- a bit below my standing elbow height.

Finally, one can never have too many power outlets, or too much light, in a
workshop.  Lighting should be arranged so that it doesn't cause specular
reflections from the workpiece or the faces of test equipment.

Best regards,

Charles


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To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Hi Charles, I'm in a similar boat where I've worked with static sensitive parts without any problems without having so much as put on a wrist strap. It's just never been an issue, even with our RH sitting around 12% here in New Mexico. I've been shoulder deep in Cray and SGI supercomputers without worrying about it. Then the day came where I needed to do surgery on my network analyzer. I figured the $20 for the coating was cheap insurance. I don't have $37k sitting around to replace it should I fry it. That was the first time I ever put on a wrist strap too! -Bob On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 11:27 AM, Charles P. Steinmetz < charles_steinmetz@lavabit.com> wrote: > Bruce wrote: > > Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an asset in >> avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static discharges >> when >> handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray the >> Masonite >> with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make the >> masonite >> slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC connections could >> not >> safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that could be >> used >> to replace the Masonite? >> > > I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use > anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try to > keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less in the > winter). I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35 years and > haven't lost one to static yet. With that perspective, my preferred > benchtop is white Formica with a very, very slightly pebbled surface. Very > durable, including to molten solder, and small parts show up well. I use > rubberized "gunsmith" mats for preventing scratches to delicate workpieces > (these happen to be anti-static, but that is not why I have them). > > Other bench thoughts: > > Bench depth is very important. I sometimes work on equipment that is more > than 24" deep, so I want at least 30" of clear space in front of any > obstructions (power strips, Variac, test equipment, whatever). In the past, > I used a "flying bridge" over the rear 18" of a 48"-deep bench to elevate > the test equipment, which worked very well. Now I use 24" deep adjustable > wire-rack shelving units behind a 30" benchtop (As others have pointed out, > you can do the same with equipment racks -- I'm not a fan of rack-mounting > test equipment unless the racks are anchored and everything is on slides, > which I was not prepared to do). I don't have enough shop real estate to > have a permanent access aisle behind the test equipment, so the bench and > racks have large (5") locking polyurethane wheels and can be pulled out > relatively easily for reconfiguration. This provides plenty of stability > for electronic projects, but you wouldn't want to mount a big vise on the > bench and try to bend 1" rebar. For that, I have a separate metalworking > shop. > > Bench height is also important. I prefer a tall bench, suited to working > standing or sitting on an ergonomic stool, so my bench top is 44" above the > floor -- a bit below my standing elbow height. > > Finally, one can never have too many power outlets, or too much light, in a > workshop. Lighting should be arranged so that it doesn't cause specular > reflections from the workpiece or the faces of test equipment. > > Best regards, > > Charles > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
LJ
Lux, Jim (337C)
Mon, Jan 25, 2010 6:54 PM

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Charles P. Steinmetz
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 10:27 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Bruce wrote:

Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an  asset in
avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static  discharges when
handling modern semiconductors.  Would it make sense  to spray the Masonite
with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to  make the masonite
slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC  connections
could not
safely rest upon it?  Is there a better-suited  material that could be used
to replace the Masonite?

One generally looks for static-dissipative surfaces, rather than conductive surfaces. 1 Megohm/square, for instance.  The idea is to keep everything isopotential as charge drops onto things, not to rigorously establish a common voltage.

I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use
anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try
to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less
in the winter).  I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35
years and haven't lost one to static yet

You haven't lost one that you know of. It also depends on the kinds of parts you're working with. There are some that are quite sensitive AND which don't fail outright, but just degrade performance a bit when they take a hit. It also depends on the energy behind the hit, of course.  An example might be the MiniCircuits ERA-4 or ERA-5 (just because I happen to have the data sheet handy).  Take a look at the later pages in the report, and you can see where the gain changes slightly as a result of 100V ESD hits (see page 6, where you can see gain dropping about 1.5 dB over 8 pulses, with about 0.1dB per hit.)

As they say at the end of the report:
The new amplifier ERA-4XSM shows gradual degradation in the gain and the
device voltage. That fact is not so bad. Even with the multiple stress a customer
would rather have gradual changes then catastrophic failure. The amplifier
withstands a single 100V ESD pulse, or 3 pulses at 50V.

http://www.minicircuits.com/pages/pdfs/an60028.pdf


When we (JPL) do site visits to vendors, lackadaisical approaches to ESD handling are one of the common problems. For us, who are building just one or two of something that's going to be going somewhere where repair isn't an option, latent damage and gradual degradation are a big deal.

It's really a "habit" thing that everyone has to get used to. That's why even nuts and bolts come in ESD packaging (even though they're obviously ESD immune): it gets people in the mindset of "come in the area, put on the wrist strap".  Back in the 70s, when ESD processes started to be used, they would have multiple categories of parts, some which needed ESD precautions (CMOS parts, DRAMs,etc.) and some which didn't (resistors, capacitors).  It was found that workers would be working with something in one category, and the habits would carry over to the others, so the industry, in general, went to the "everything is ESD sensitive" approach.

The worst offenders for ESD are the engineers (like those of us reading the list!), because they actually know what parts are sensitive and which aren't, and tend to take shortcuts with the non-sensitive parts.  Which works, sort of, until they guess wrong, and cook something.  "Hey, why is the NF on this LNA 0.2 dB higher than it was yesterday?"

jim

> -----Original Message----- > From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Charles P. Steinmetz > Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 10:27 AM > To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > > Bruce wrote: > > >Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an asset in > >avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static discharges when > >handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray the Masonite > >with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make the masonite > >slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC connections > >could not > >safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that could be used > >to replace the Masonite? One generally looks for static-dissipative surfaces, rather than conductive surfaces. 1 Megohm/square, for instance. The idea is to keep everything isopotential as charge drops onto things, not to rigorously establish a common voltage. > > I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use > anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try > to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less > in the winter). I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35 > years and haven't lost one to static yet You haven't lost one *that you know of*. It also depends on the kinds of parts you're working with. There are some that are quite sensitive AND which don't fail outright, but just degrade performance a bit when they take a hit. It also depends on the energy behind the hit, of course. An example might be the MiniCircuits ERA-4 or ERA-5 (just because I happen to have the data sheet handy). Take a look at the later pages in the report, and you can see where the gain changes slightly as a result of 100V ESD hits (see page 6, where you can see gain dropping about 1.5 dB over 8 pulses, with about 0.1dB per hit.) As they say at the end of the report: The new amplifier ERA-4XSM shows gradual degradation in the gain and the device voltage. That fact is not so bad. Even with the multiple stress a customer would rather have gradual changes then catastrophic failure. The amplifier withstands a single 100V ESD pulse, or 3 pulses at 50V. http://www.minicircuits.com/pages/pdfs/an60028.pdf ---- When we (JPL) do site visits to vendors, lackadaisical approaches to ESD handling are one of the common problems. For us, who are building just one or two of something that's going to be going somewhere where repair isn't an option, latent damage and gradual degradation are a big deal. It's really a "habit" thing that everyone has to get used to. That's why even nuts and bolts come in ESD packaging (even though they're obviously ESD immune): it gets people in the mindset of "come in the area, put on the wrist strap". Back in the 70s, when ESD processes started to be used, they would have multiple categories of parts, some which needed ESD precautions (CMOS parts, DRAMs,etc.) and some which didn't (resistors, capacitors). It was found that workers would be working with something in one category, and the habits would carry over to the others, so the industry, in general, went to the "everything is ESD sensitive" approach. The *worst* offenders for ESD are the engineers (like those of us reading the list!), because they actually know what parts are sensitive and which aren't, and tend to take shortcuts with the non-sensitive parts. Which works, sort of, until they guess wrong, and cook something. "Hey, why is the NF on this LNA 0.2 dB higher than it was yesterday?" jim
EP
Ed Palmer
Mon, Jan 25, 2010 7:59 PM

I've still got a paper copy of an HP Bench Brief from 1983 that was one
of my first introductions to the dangers of ESD.  I've used a wrist
strap and antistatic mat since then.  ESD protection in the ICs has
improved since then, but I think that the article is still mostly
applicable today.

http://www.hparchive.com/Bench_Briefs/HP-Bench-Briefs-1983-03-05.pdf

Ed

Lux, Jim (337C) wrote:

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Charles P. Steinmetz
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 10:27 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Bruce wrote:

Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an  asset in
avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static  discharges when
handling modern semiconductors.  Would it make sense  to spray the Masonite
with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to  make the masonite
slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC  connections
could not
safely rest upon it?  Is there a better-suited  material that could be used
to replace the Masonite?

One generally looks for static-dissipative surfaces, rather than conductive surfaces. 1 Megohm/square, for instance.  The idea is to keep everything isopotential as charge drops onto things, not to rigorously establish a common voltage.

I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use
anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try
to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less
in the winter).  I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35
years and haven't lost one to static yet

You haven't lost one that you know of. It also depends on the kinds of parts you're working with. There are some that are quite sensitive AND which don't fail outright, but just degrade performance a bit when they take a hit. It also depends on the energy behind the hit, of course.  An example might be the MiniCircuits ERA-4 or ERA-5 (just because I happen to have the data sheet handy).  Take a look at the later pages in the report, and you can see where the gain changes slightly as a result of 100V ESD hits (see page 6, where you can see gain dropping about 1.5 dB over 8 pulses, with about 0.1dB per hit.)

As they say at the end of the report:
The new amplifier ERA-4XSM shows gradual degradation in the gain and the
device voltage. That fact is not so bad. Even with the multiple stress a customer
would rather have gradual changes then catastrophic failure. The amplifier
withstands a single 100V ESD pulse, or 3 pulses at 50V.

http://www.minicircuits.com/pages/pdfs/an60028.pdf


When we (JPL) do site visits to vendors, lackadaisical approaches to ESD handling are one of the common problems. For us, who are building just one or two of something that's going to be going somewhere where repair isn't an option, latent damage and gradual degradation are a big deal.

It's really a "habit" thing that everyone has to get used to. That's why even nuts and bolts come in ESD packaging (even though they're obviously ESD immune): it gets people in the mindset of "come in the area, put on the wrist strap".  Back in the 70s, when ESD processes started to be used, they would have multiple categories of parts, some which needed ESD precautions (CMOS parts, DRAMs,etc.) and some which didn't (resistors, capacitors).  It was found that workers would be working with something in one category, and the habits would carry over to the others, so the industry, in general, went to the "everything is ESD sensitive" approach.

The worst offenders for ESD are the engineers (like those of us reading the list!), because they actually know what parts are sensitive and which aren't, and tend to take shortcuts with the non-sensitive parts.  Which works, sort of, until they guess wrong, and cook something.  "Hey, why is the NF on this LNA 0.2 dB higher than it was yesterday?"

jim

I've still got a paper copy of an HP Bench Brief from 1983 that was one of my first introductions to the dangers of ESD. I've used a wrist strap and antistatic mat since then. ESD protection in the ICs has improved since then, but I think that the article is still mostly applicable today. http://www.hparchive.com/Bench_Briefs/HP-Bench-Briefs-1983-03-05.pdf Ed Lux, Jim (337C) wrote: >> -----Original Message----- >> From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Charles P. Steinmetz >> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 10:27 AM >> To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement >> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material >> >> Bruce wrote: >> >> >>> Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an asset in >>> avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static discharges when >>> handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray the Masonite >>> with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make the masonite >>> slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC connections >>> could not >>> safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that could be used >>> to replace the Masonite? >>> > > One generally looks for static-dissipative surfaces, rather than conductive surfaces. 1 Megohm/square, for instance. The idea is to keep everything isopotential as charge drops onto things, not to rigorously establish a common voltage. > > >> I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use >> anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try >> to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less >> in the winter). I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35 >> years and haven't lost one to static yet >> > > You haven't lost one *that you know of*. It also depends on the kinds of parts you're working with. There are some that are quite sensitive AND which don't fail outright, but just degrade performance a bit when they take a hit. It also depends on the energy behind the hit, of course. An example might be the MiniCircuits ERA-4 or ERA-5 (just because I happen to have the data sheet handy). Take a look at the later pages in the report, and you can see where the gain changes slightly as a result of 100V ESD hits (see page 6, where you can see gain dropping about 1.5 dB over 8 pulses, with about 0.1dB per hit.) > > As they say at the end of the report: > The new amplifier ERA-4XSM shows gradual degradation in the gain and the > device voltage. That fact is not so bad. Even with the multiple stress a customer > would rather have gradual changes then catastrophic failure. The amplifier > withstands a single 100V ESD pulse, or 3 pulses at 50V. > > http://www.minicircuits.com/pages/pdfs/an60028.pdf > > > ---- > > When we (JPL) do site visits to vendors, lackadaisical approaches to ESD handling are one of the common problems. For us, who are building just one or two of something that's going to be going somewhere where repair isn't an option, latent damage and gradual degradation are a big deal. > > It's really a "habit" thing that everyone has to get used to. That's why even nuts and bolts come in ESD packaging (even though they're obviously ESD immune): it gets people in the mindset of "come in the area, put on the wrist strap". Back in the 70s, when ESD processes started to be used, they would have multiple categories of parts, some which needed ESD precautions (CMOS parts, DRAMs,etc.) and some which didn't (resistors, capacitors). It was found that workers would be working with something in one category, and the habits would carry over to the others, so the industry, in general, went to the "everything is ESD sensitive" approach. > > The *worst* offenders for ESD are the engineers (like those of us reading the list!), because they actually know what parts are sensitive and which aren't, and tend to take shortcuts with the non-sensitive parts. Which works, sort of, until they guess wrong, and cook something. "Hey, why is the NF on this LNA 0.2 dB higher than it was yesterday?" > > > jim >
SB
Scott Burris
Mon, Jan 25, 2010 8:11 PM

So looking at ESD mat material at Digikey, there appears to be a
bewildering array of choices.  Elastomer, rubber, vinyl,
thermoplastic, laminate, foam rubber, and polyethelene.

Any guidelines about what to choose?

Scott

On Jan 25, 2010, at 11:59 AM, Ed Palmer ed_palmer@sasktel.net wrote:

I've still got a paper copy of an HP Bench Brief from 1983 that was
one of my first introductions to the dangers of ESD.  I've used a
wrist strap and antistatic mat since then.  ESD protection in the
ICs has improved since then, but I think that the article is still
mostly applicable today.

http://www.hparchive.com/Bench_Briefs/HP-Bench-Briefs-1983-03-05.pdf

Ed

Lux, Jim (337C) wrote:

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-
bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Charles P. Steinmetz
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 10:27 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Bruce wrote:

Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an  asset
in
avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static
discharges when
handling modern semiconductors.  Would it make sense  to spray
the Masonite
with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to  make
the masonite
slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC
connections
could not
safely rest upon it?  Is there a better-suited  material that
could be used
to replace the Masonite?

One generally looks for static-dissipative surfaces, rather than
conductive surfaces. 1 Megohm/square, for instance.  The idea is to
keep everything isopotential as charge drops onto things, not to
rigorously establish a common voltage.

I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use
anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I
try
to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less
in the winter).  I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for
35
years and haven't lost one to static yet

You haven't lost one that you know of. It also depends on the
kinds of parts you're working with. There are some that are quite
sensitive AND which don't fail outright, but just degrade
performance a bit when they take a hit. It also depends on the
energy behind the hit, of course.  An example might be the
MiniCircuits ERA-4 or ERA-5 (just because I happen to have the data
sheet handy).  Take a look at the later pages in the report, and
you can see where the gain changes slightly as a result of 100V ESD
hits (see page 6, where you can see gain dropping about 1.5 dB over
8 pulses, with about 0.1dB per hit.)

As they say at the end of the report:
The new amplifier ERA-4XSM shows gradual degradation in the gain
and the
device voltage. That fact is not so bad. Even with the multiple
stress a customer
would rather have gradual changes then catastrophic failure. The
amplifier
withstands a single 100V ESD pulse, or 3 pulses at 50V.

http://www.minicircuits.com/pages/pdfs/an60028.pdf


When we (JPL) do site visits to vendors, lackadaisical approaches
to ESD handling are one of the common problems. For us, who are
building just one or two of something that's going to be going
somewhere where repair isn't an option, latent damage and gradual
degradation are a big deal.
It's really a "habit" thing that everyone has to get used to.
That's why even nuts and bolts come in ESD packaging (even though
they're obviously ESD immune): it gets people in the mindset of
"come in the area, put on the wrist strap".  Back in the 70s, when
ESD processes started to be used, they would have multiple
categories of parts, some which needed ESD precautions (CMOS parts,
DRAMs,etc.) and some which didn't (resistors, capacitors).  It was
found that workers would be working with something in one category,
and the habits would carry over to the others, so the industry, in
general, went to the "everything is ESD sensitive" approach.

The worst offenders for ESD are the engineers (like those of us
reading the list!), because they actually know what parts are
sensitive and which aren't, and tend to take shortcuts with the non-
sensitive parts.  Which works, sort of, until they guess wrong, and
cook something.  "Hey, why is the NF on this LNA 0.2 dB higher than
it was yesterday?"

jim


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

So looking at ESD mat material at Digikey, there appears to be a bewildering array of choices. Elastomer, rubber, vinyl, thermoplastic, laminate, foam rubber, and polyethelene. Any guidelines about what to choose? Scott On Jan 25, 2010, at 11:59 AM, Ed Palmer <ed_palmer@sasktel.net> wrote: > I've still got a paper copy of an HP Bench Brief from 1983 that was > one of my first introductions to the dangers of ESD. I've used a > wrist strap and antistatic mat since then. ESD protection in the > ICs has improved since then, but I think that the article is still > mostly applicable today. > > http://www.hparchive.com/Bench_Briefs/HP-Bench-Briefs-1983-03-05.pdf > > Ed > > Lux, Jim (337C) wrote: >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts- >>> bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Charles P. Steinmetz >>> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 10:27 AM >>> To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement >>> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material >>> >>> Bruce wrote: >>> >>> >>>> Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an asset >>>> in >>>> avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static >>>> discharges when >>>> handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray >>>> the Masonite >>>> with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make >>>> the masonite >>>> slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC >>>> connections >>>> could not >>>> safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that >>>> could be used >>>> to replace the Masonite? >>>> >> >> One generally looks for static-dissipative surfaces, rather than >> conductive surfaces. 1 Megohm/square, for instance. The idea is to >> keep everything isopotential as charge drops onto things, not to >> rigorously establish a common voltage. >> >> >>> I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use >>> anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I >>> try >>> to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less >>> in the winter). I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for >>> 35 >>> years and haven't lost one to static yet >>> >> >> You haven't lost one *that you know of*. It also depends on the >> kinds of parts you're working with. There are some that are quite >> sensitive AND which don't fail outright, but just degrade >> performance a bit when they take a hit. It also depends on the >> energy behind the hit, of course. An example might be the >> MiniCircuits ERA-4 or ERA-5 (just because I happen to have the data >> sheet handy). Take a look at the later pages in the report, and >> you can see where the gain changes slightly as a result of 100V ESD >> hits (see page 6, where you can see gain dropping about 1.5 dB over >> 8 pulses, with about 0.1dB per hit.) >> >> As they say at the end of the report: >> The new amplifier ERA-4XSM shows gradual degradation in the gain >> and the >> device voltage. That fact is not so bad. Even with the multiple >> stress a customer >> would rather have gradual changes then catastrophic failure. The >> amplifier >> withstands a single 100V ESD pulse, or 3 pulses at 50V. >> >> http://www.minicircuits.com/pages/pdfs/an60028.pdf >> >> >> ---- >> >> When we (JPL) do site visits to vendors, lackadaisical approaches >> to ESD handling are one of the common problems. For us, who are >> building just one or two of something that's going to be going >> somewhere where repair isn't an option, latent damage and gradual >> degradation are a big deal. >> It's really a "habit" thing that everyone has to get used to. >> That's why even nuts and bolts come in ESD packaging (even though >> they're obviously ESD immune): it gets people in the mindset of >> "come in the area, put on the wrist strap". Back in the 70s, when >> ESD processes started to be used, they would have multiple >> categories of parts, some which needed ESD precautions (CMOS parts, >> DRAMs,etc.) and some which didn't (resistors, capacitors). It was >> found that workers would be working with something in one category, >> and the habits would carry over to the others, so the industry, in >> general, went to the "everything is ESD sensitive" approach. >> >> The *worst* offenders for ESD are the engineers (like those of us >> reading the list!), because they actually know what parts are >> sensitive and which aren't, and tend to take shortcuts with the non- >> sensitive parts. Which works, sort of, until they guess wrong, and >> cook something. "Hey, why is the NF on this LNA 0.2 dB higher than >> it was yesterday?" >> >> jim >> > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there.
BH
Bill Hawkins
Mon, Jan 25, 2010 9:24 PM

My first job was in a blasting cap plant in 1960. There were
military devices so sensitive they could be set off by turning
on a nearby fluorescent desk lamp.

I learned that the human body has a capacitance of 400 pico F.
Getting up from a chair could raise a couple of kilovolts. We
walked on conductive rubber floors wearing conductive rubber
shoes. Bench tops were conductive rubber. Nobody had thought of
the wrist strap yet.

In those days, rubber was made conductive with carbon black. It
was almost as effective as a pencil at marking things. If the
anti-static material is not black, maybe it won't be a marking
hazard.

A megohm and 400 pF has a time constant of 400 microseconds, but
you do get the kilovolt spike. The wrist strap looks really good
as long as your motion is the only source of static electricity.
It keeps your body from ever reaching kilovolt potentials.

Bill Hawkins

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Scott Burris
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 2:11 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

So looking at ESD mat material at Digikey, there appears to be a
bewildering array of choices.  Elastomer, rubber, vinyl,
thermoplastic, laminate, foam rubber, and polyethelene.

Any guidelines about what to choose?

Scott

My first job was in a blasting cap plant in 1960. There were military devices so sensitive they could be set off by turning on a nearby fluorescent desk lamp. I learned that the human body has a capacitance of 400 pico F. Getting up from a chair could raise a couple of kilovolts. We walked on conductive rubber floors wearing conductive rubber shoes. Bench tops were conductive rubber. Nobody had thought of the wrist strap yet. In those days, rubber was made conductive with carbon black. It was almost as effective as a pencil at marking things. If the anti-static material is not black, maybe it won't be a marking hazard. A megohm and 400 pF has a time constant of 400 microseconds, but you do get the kilovolt spike. The wrist strap looks really good as long as your motion is the only source of static electricity. It keeps your body from ever reaching kilovolt potentials. Bill Hawkins -----Original Message----- From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Scott Burris Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 2:11 PM To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material So looking at ESD mat material at Digikey, there appears to be a bewildering array of choices. Elastomer, rubber, vinyl, thermoplastic, laminate, foam rubber, and polyethelene. Any guidelines about what to choose? Scott
LJ
Lux, Jim (337C)
Mon, Jan 25, 2010 9:38 PM

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Bill Hawkins

I learned that the human body has a capacitance of 400 pico F.
Getting up from a chair could raise a couple of kilovolts. We
walked on conductive rubber floors wearing conductive rubber
shoes. Bench tops were conductive rubber. Nobody had thought of
the wrist strap yet.

If you're in and out of ESD areas, then shoes with conductive soles are easier to use than always wrist strapping. Ditto if you're working on something big where the cord for the wrist strap gets in the way.  In some of our clean rooms, we have booties to go over your street shoes that have conductive coatings on them, and a conductive ribbon that you tuck into your sock to make contact.  (And you go stand on a test pad to make sure, of course).

I like the conductive shoes approach, it's pretty screw up proof, because you don't have to remember to plug your wrist strap in when you come to the bench, but the floor needs to be conductive, too.

In those days, rubber was made conductive with carbon black. It
was almost as effective as a pencil at marking things. If the
anti-static material is not black, maybe it won't be a marking
hazard.

These days, the black bins are dissipative and not marking.  The black foam is history (we all have ICs with corroded leads in the garage where the black foam turns to goo). Here at JPl, we don't use the pink bags/peanuts/stuff at all, because apparently, the coating can flake or rub off.  We use plastic that has a very thin metalized layer, and I think that's pretty much industry standard now.

A megohm and 400 pF has a time constant of 400 microseconds, but
you do get the kilovolt spike. The wrist strap looks really good
as long as your motion is the only source of static electricity.
It keeps your body from ever reaching kilovolt potentials.

And the megohm is important to keep you from inadvertently dying when you happen to accidentally contact the AC line.

> -----Original Message----- > From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Bill Hawkins > I learned that the human body has a capacitance of 400 pico F. > Getting up from a chair could raise a couple of kilovolts. We > walked on conductive rubber floors wearing conductive rubber > shoes. Bench tops were conductive rubber. Nobody had thought of > the wrist strap yet. > If you're in and out of ESD areas, then shoes with conductive soles are easier to use than always wrist strapping. Ditto if you're working on something big where the cord for the wrist strap gets in the way. In some of our clean rooms, we have booties to go over your street shoes that have conductive coatings on them, and a conductive ribbon that you tuck into your sock to make contact. (And you go stand on a test pad to make sure, of course). I like the conductive shoes approach, it's pretty screw up proof, because you don't have to remember to plug your wrist strap in when you come to the bench, but the floor needs to be conductive, too. > In those days, rubber was made conductive with carbon black. It > was almost as effective as a pencil at marking things. If the > anti-static material is not black, maybe it won't be a marking > hazard. These days, the black bins are dissipative and not marking. The black foam is history (we all have ICs with corroded leads in the garage where the black foam turns to goo). Here at JPl, we don't use the pink bags/peanuts/stuff at all, because apparently, the coating can flake or rub off. We use plastic that has a very thin metalized layer, and I think that's pretty much industry standard now. > > A megohm and 400 pF has a time constant of 400 microseconds, but > you do get the kilovolt spike. The wrist strap looks really good > as long as your motion is the only source of static electricity. > It keeps your body from ever reaching kilovolt potentials. > And the megohm is important to keep you from inadvertently dying when you happen to accidentally contact the AC line.
NM
Neville Michie
Mon, Jan 25, 2010 9:53 PM

Natural materials like wood, cotton, wool and even concrete have an
equilibrium
water content that changes with ambient relative humidity. This makes
these materials
conductive but not conductive enough to carry dangerous currents.
They are still good insulators
for mains voltage.
The textiles can change moisture content and conductivity quite
quickly
as they have fibre diameters of about 20 microns or so, but even at
20% RH static charges
dissipate in seconds. Plastics, however, tend to be very non-
conductive and charges
can be held for hours. Also, some plastics form electrets which stay
"charged" even under water.

A great insight to the static electricity problem came from articles
I read as a young boy in old (1910)
articles such as "make yourself an electrophorous" in popular science
mags.
A can lid was filled with melted resin. When solid it was rubbed with
wool. A metal
disk with insulated handle was placed on the resin and grounded with
a finger.
The disk was then lifted off the resin and would be found to have a
high charge (and voltage) on it.
(half inch fat spark to ground)
This process of induced charging and potential multiplication is the
danger on work benches.
The main way to overcome it is to have an isopotential environment
which naturally occurs with
natural materials where all charges rapidly drain away. Wood is good,
it does not produce charge
when rubbed and rapidly drains any charge away. And unless soaking
wet it will not electrocute you
if you are leaning on it when you touch and active power lead. (my
theory from experience is that
it is the ground that would kill you when if you were electrocuted.
If you have good soles on your shoes
and the other hand in your pocket an accidental touch to high voltage
is survivable)
just a few thoughts,
Neville Michie

time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/
time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Natural materials like wood, cotton, wool and even concrete have an equilibrium water content that changes with ambient relative humidity. This makes these materials conductive but not conductive enough to carry dangerous currents. They are still good insulators for mains voltage. The textiles can change moisture content and conductivity quite quickly as they have fibre diameters of about 20 microns or so, but even at 20% RH static charges dissipate in seconds. Plastics, however, tend to be very non- conductive and charges can be held for hours. Also, some plastics form electrets which stay "charged" even under water. A great insight to the static electricity problem came from articles I read as a young boy in old (1910) articles such as "make yourself an electrophorous" in popular science mags. A can lid was filled with melted resin. When solid it was rubbed with wool. A metal disk with insulated handle was placed on the resin and grounded with a finger. The disk was then lifted off the resin and would be found to have a high charge (and voltage) on it. (half inch fat spark to ground) This process of induced charging and potential multiplication is the danger on work benches. The main way to overcome it is to have an isopotential environment which naturally occurs with natural materials where all charges rapidly drain away. Wood is good, it does not produce charge when rubbed and rapidly drains any charge away. And unless soaking wet it will not electrocute you if you are leaning on it when you touch and active power lead. (my theory from experience is that it is the ground that would kill you when if you were electrocuted. If you have good soles on your shoes and the other hand in your pocket an accidental touch to high voltage is survivable) just a few thoughts, Neville Michie > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/ > time-nuts > and follow the instructions there.
MD
Magnus Danielson
Tue, Jan 26, 2010 12:24 AM

Bill Hawkins wrote:

My first job was in a blasting cap plant in 1960. There were
military devices so sensitive they could be set off by turning
on a nearby fluorescent desk lamp.

I learned that the human body has a capacitance of 400 pico F.
Getting up from a chair could raise a couple of kilovolts. We
walked on conductive rubber floors wearing conductive rubber
shoes. Bench tops were conductive rubber. Nobody had thought of
the wrist strap yet.

In those days, rubber was made conductive with carbon black. It
was almost as effective as a pencil at marking things. If the
anti-static material is not black, maybe it won't be a marking
hazard.

A megohm and 400 pF has a time constant of 400 microseconds, but
you do get the kilovolt spike. The wrist strap looks really good
as long as your motion is the only source of static electricity.
It keeps your body from ever reaching kilovolt potentials.

Your finger and hand makes a 700ps to 1 ns risetime device. Slew-rate
wise you can be up in several milions of V/us. The arm has sufficient
induction that it takes a considerable time before the body discharges,
but the hand creats the leader and then the big blow comes from the body
discharge. Just as a cloud and a ligthning bolt, but in man-size.

However, being ESD aware does not mean going maniac about it. It's more
like don't finger on things which is very hot. You need to build good
habits to avoid doing something bad.

Cheers,
Magnus

Bill Hawkins wrote: > My first job was in a blasting cap plant in 1960. There were > military devices so sensitive they could be set off by turning > on a nearby fluorescent desk lamp. > > I learned that the human body has a capacitance of 400 pico F. > Getting up from a chair could raise a couple of kilovolts. We > walked on conductive rubber floors wearing conductive rubber > shoes. Bench tops were conductive rubber. Nobody had thought of > the wrist strap yet. > > In those days, rubber was made conductive with carbon black. It > was almost as effective as a pencil at marking things. If the > anti-static material is not black, maybe it won't be a marking > hazard. > > A megohm and 400 pF has a time constant of 400 microseconds, but > you do get the kilovolt spike. The wrist strap looks really good > as long as your motion is the only source of static electricity. > It keeps your body from ever reaching kilovolt potentials. Your finger and hand makes a 700ps to 1 ns risetime device. Slew-rate wise you can be up in several milions of V/us. The arm has sufficient induction that it takes a considerable time before the body discharges, but the hand creats the leader and then the big blow comes from the body discharge. Just as a cloud and a ligthning bolt, but in man-size. However, being ESD aware does not mean going maniac about it. It's more like don't finger on things which is very hot. You need to build good habits to avoid doing something bad. Cheers, Magnus
MD
Magnus Danielson
Tue, Jan 26, 2010 12:33 AM

Lux, Jim (337C) wrote:

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Bill Hawkins

I learned that the human body has a capacitance of 400 pico F.
Getting up from a chair could raise a couple of kilovolts. We
walked on conductive rubber floors wearing conductive rubber
shoes. Bench tops were conductive rubber. Nobody had thought of
the wrist strap yet.

If you're in and out of ESD areas, then shoes with conductive soles are easier to use than always wrist strapping. Ditto if you're working on something big where the cord for the wrist strap gets in the way.  In some of our clean rooms, we have booties to go over your street shoes that have conductive coatings on them, and a conductive ribbon that you tuck into your sock to make contact.  (And you go stand on a test pad to make sure, of course).

I like the conductive shoes approach, it's pretty screw up proof, because you don't have to remember to plug your wrist strap in when you come to the bench, but the floor needs to be conductive, too.

The first greeting a new collueage gets when comming first day to work
is "What shoesize are you?". We order ESD shoes for more or less
everyone. Our US sales-people is known to ask if it is real Birkenstock
shoes. :)

In those days, rubber was made conductive with carbon black. It
was almost as effective as a pencil at marking things. If the
anti-static material is not black, maybe it won't be a marking
hazard.

These days, the black bins are dissipative and not marking.  The black foam is history (we all have ICs with corroded leads in the garage where the black foam turns to goo). Here at JPl, we don't use the pink bags/peanuts/stuff at all, because apparently, the coating can flake or rub off.  We use plastic that has a very thin metalized layer, and I think that's pretty much industry standard now.

This is why you guys don't have a pink-day at the office! :)

You got to have a silly pink-day every once in a while just for the fun
of it. I'll see if not the HW department can adapt it, as they have
tried non-casual-friday (usual dress code is... um... casual).

A megohm and 400 pF has a time constant of 400 microseconds, but
you do get the kilovolt spike. The wrist strap looks really good
as long as your motion is the only source of static electricity.
It keeps your body from ever reaching kilovolt potentials.

And the megohm is important to keep you from inadvertently dying when you happen to accidentally contact the AC line.

There is a reason for EKG equipment being measured for isolation
properties. The medical staff wants to select the time and dosage of
larger currents through the heart, and preference is towards patients
that badly need it.

Cheers,
Magnus

Lux, Jim (337C) wrote: >> -----Original Message----- >> From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Bill Hawkins > > >> I learned that the human body has a capacitance of 400 pico F. >> Getting up from a chair could raise a couple of kilovolts. We >> walked on conductive rubber floors wearing conductive rubber >> shoes. Bench tops were conductive rubber. Nobody had thought of >> the wrist strap yet. >> > > If you're in and out of ESD areas, then shoes with conductive soles are easier to use than always wrist strapping. Ditto if you're working on something big where the cord for the wrist strap gets in the way. In some of our clean rooms, we have booties to go over your street shoes that have conductive coatings on them, and a conductive ribbon that you tuck into your sock to make contact. (And you go stand on a test pad to make sure, of course). > > I like the conductive shoes approach, it's pretty screw up proof, because you don't have to remember to plug your wrist strap in when you come to the bench, but the floor needs to be conductive, too. The first greeting a new collueage gets when comming first day to work is "What shoesize are you?". We order ESD shoes for more or less everyone. Our US sales-people is known to ask if it is real Birkenstock shoes. :) >> In those days, rubber was made conductive with carbon black. It >> was almost as effective as a pencil at marking things. If the >> anti-static material is not black, maybe it won't be a marking >> hazard. > > These days, the black bins are dissipative and not marking. The black foam is history (we all have ICs with corroded leads in the garage where the black foam turns to goo). Here at JPl, we don't use the pink bags/peanuts/stuff at all, because apparently, the coating can flake or rub off. We use plastic that has a very thin metalized layer, and I think that's pretty much industry standard now. This is why you guys don't have a pink-day at the office! :) You got to have a silly pink-day every once in a while just for the fun of it. I'll see if not the HW department can adapt it, as they have tried non-casual-friday (usual dress code is... um... casual). >> A megohm and 400 pF has a time constant of 400 microseconds, but >> you do get the kilovolt spike. The wrist strap looks really good >> as long as your motion is the only source of static electricity. >> It keeps your body from ever reaching kilovolt potentials. >> > > And the megohm is important to keep you from inadvertently dying when you happen to accidentally contact the AC line. There is a reason for EKG equipment being measured for isolation properties. The medical staff wants to select the time and dosage of larger currents through the heart, and preference is towards patients that badly need it. Cheers, Magnus
DS
d.seiter@comcast.net
Tue, Jan 26, 2010 7:21 AM

Back about 1981, we had piles of 6502s, etc and decide to some "antistatic testing". We put a 40pin ZIF socket into a VIC-20, and then set about trying to fry the uP using carpet, a cat, car seats, etc. The DUT was then put back into the VIC and series of tests run to verify operation. I don't think we ever had a failure. Of course, there may have been some hiding that we missed, but all the static damage I've seen has been pretty severe.

That said, I always use a wrist strap and mat if I'm working on something I don't want to break further.

-Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles P. Steinmetz" charles_steinmetz@lavabit.com
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 11:27:11 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Bruce wrote:

Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an asset in
avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static discharges when
handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray the Masonite
with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make the masonite
slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC connections
could not
safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that could be used
to replace the Masonite?

I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use
anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try
to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less
in the winter). I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35
years and haven't lost one to static yet. With that perspective, my
preferred benchtop is white Formica with a very, very slightly
pebbled surface. Very durable, including to molten solder, and small
parts show up well. I use rubberized "gunsmith" mats for preventing
scratches to delicate workpieces (these happen to be anti-static, but
that is not why I have them).

Other bench thoughts:

Bench depth is very important. I sometimes work on equipment that is
more than 24" deep, so I want at least 30" of clear space in front of
any obstructions (power strips, Variac, test equipment,
whatever). In the past, I used a "flying bridge" over the rear 18"
of a 48"-deep bench to elevate the test equipment, which worked very
well. Now I use 24" deep adjustable wire-rack shelving units behind
a 30" benchtop (As others have pointed out, you can do the same with
equipment racks -- I'm not a fan of rack-mounting test equipment
unless the racks are anchored and everything is on slides, which I
was not prepared to do). I don't have enough shop real estate to
have a permanent access aisle behind the test equipment, so the bench
and racks have large (5") locking polyurethane wheels and can be
pulled out relatively easily for reconfiguration. This provides
plenty of stability for electronic projects, but you wouldn't want to
mount a big vise on the bench and try to bend 1" rebar. For that, I
have a separate metalworking shop.

Bench height is also important. I prefer a tall bench, suited to
working standing or sitting on an ergonomic stool, so my bench top is
44" above the floor -- a bit below my standing elbow height.

Finally, one can never have too many power outlets, or too much
light, in a workshop. Lighting should be arranged so that it doesn't
cause specular reflections from the workpiece or the faces of test equipment.

Best regards,

Charles


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and follow the instructions there.

Back about 1981, we had piles of 6502s, etc and decide to some "antistatic testing". We put a 40pin ZIF socket into a VIC-20, and then set about trying to fry the uP using carpet, a cat, car seats, etc. The DUT was then put back into the VIC and series of tests run to verify operation. I don't think we ever had a failure. Of course, there may have been some hiding that we missed, but all the static damage I've seen has been pretty severe. That said, I always use a wrist strap and mat if I'm working on something I don't want to break further. -Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charles P. Steinmetz" <charles_steinmetz@lavabit.com> To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 11:27:11 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material Bruce wrote: >Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an asset in >avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static discharges when >handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray the Masonite >with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make the masonite >slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC connections >could not >safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that could be used >to replace the Masonite? I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less in the winter). I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35 years and haven't lost one to static yet. With that perspective, my preferred benchtop is white Formica with a very, very slightly pebbled surface. Very durable, including to molten solder, and small parts show up well. I use rubberized "gunsmith" mats for preventing scratches to delicate workpieces (these happen to be anti-static, but that is not why I have them). Other bench thoughts: Bench depth is very important. I sometimes work on equipment that is more than 24" deep, so I want at least 30" of clear space in front of any obstructions (power strips, Variac, test equipment, whatever). In the past, I used a "flying bridge" over the rear 18" of a 48"-deep bench to elevate the test equipment, which worked very well. Now I use 24" deep adjustable wire-rack shelving units behind a 30" benchtop (As others have pointed out, you can do the same with equipment racks -- I'm not a fan of rack-mounting test equipment unless the racks are anchored and everything is on slides, which I was not prepared to do). I don't have enough shop real estate to have a permanent access aisle behind the test equipment, so the bench and racks have large (5") locking polyurethane wheels and can be pulled out relatively easily for reconfiguration. This provides plenty of stability for electronic projects, but you wouldn't want to mount a big vise on the bench and try to bend 1" rebar. For that, I have a separate metalworking shop. Bench height is also important. I prefer a tall bench, suited to working standing or sitting on an ergonomic stool, so my bench top is 44" above the floor -- a bit below my standing elbow height. Finally, one can never have too many power outlets, or too much light, in a workshop. Lighting should be arranged so that it doesn't cause specular reflections from the workpiece or the faces of test equipment. Best regards, Charles _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
BC
Bob Camp
Tue, Jan 26, 2010 12:31 PM

Hi

If you are manually loading up a wire bonder with conventional CMOS chips, ESD damage is a very real thing. You can haul the chip over to a SEM and actually take pictures of he craters you blast in it. Very cool pictures. No cat's, carpets, or Windhurst machines needed.  Just normal operators with missing wrist straps will do the trick quite nicely.

Bob

On Jan 26, 2010, at 2:21 AM, d.seiter@comcast.net wrote:

Back about 1981, we had piles of 6502s, etc and decide to some "antistatic testing". We put a 40pin ZIF socket into a VIC-20, and then set about trying to fry the uP using carpet, a cat, car seats, etc. The DUT was then put back into the VIC and series of tests run to verify operation. I don't think we ever had a failure. Of course, there may have been some hiding that we missed, but all the static damage I've seen has been pretty severe.

That said, I always use a wrist strap and mat if I'm working on something I don't want to break further.

-Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles P. Steinmetz" charles_steinmetz@lavabit.com
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 11:27:11 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Bruce wrote:

Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an asset in
avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static discharges when
handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray the Masonite
with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make the masonite
slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC connections
could not
safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that could be used
to replace the Masonite?

I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use
anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try
to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less
in the winter). I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35
years and haven't lost one to static yet. With that perspective, my
preferred benchtop is white Formica with a very, very slightly
pebbled surface. Very durable, including to molten solder, and small
parts show up well. I use rubberized "gunsmith" mats for preventing
scratches to delicate workpieces (these happen to be anti-static, but
that is not why I have them).

Other bench thoughts:

Bench depth is very important. I sometimes work on equipment that is
more than 24" deep, so I want at least 30" of clear space in front of
any obstructions (power strips, Variac, test equipment,
whatever). In the past, I used a "flying bridge" over the rear 18"
of a 48"-deep bench to elevate the test equipment, which worked very
well. Now I use 24" deep adjustable wire-rack shelving units behind
a 30" benchtop (As others have pointed out, you can do the same with
equipment racks -- I'm not a fan of rack-mounting test equipment
unless the racks are anchored and everything is on slides, which I
was not prepared to do). I don't have enough shop real estate to
have a permanent access aisle behind the test equipment, so the bench
and racks have large (5") locking polyurethane wheels and can be
pulled out relatively easily for reconfiguration. This provides
plenty of stability for electronic projects, but you wouldn't want to
mount a big vise on the bench and try to bend 1" rebar. For that, I
have a separate metalworking shop.

Bench height is also important. I prefer a tall bench, suited to
working standing or sitting on an ergonomic stool, so my bench top is
44" above the floor -- a bit below my standing elbow height.

Finally, one can never have too many power outlets, or too much
light, in a workshop. Lighting should be arranged so that it doesn't
cause specular reflections from the workpiece or the faces of test equipment.

Best regards,

Charles


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Hi If you are manually loading up a wire bonder with conventional CMOS chips, ESD damage is a very real thing. You can haul the chip over to a SEM and actually take pictures of he craters you blast in it. Very cool pictures. No cat's, carpets, or Windhurst machines needed. Just normal operators with missing wrist straps will do the trick quite nicely. Bob On Jan 26, 2010, at 2:21 AM, d.seiter@comcast.net wrote: > Back about 1981, we had piles of 6502s, etc and decide to some "antistatic testing". We put a 40pin ZIF socket into a VIC-20, and then set about trying to fry the uP using carpet, a cat, car seats, etc. The DUT was then put back into the VIC and series of tests run to verify operation. I don't think we ever had a failure. Of course, there may have been some hiding that we missed, but all the static damage I've seen has been pretty severe. > > That said, I always use a wrist strap and mat if I'm working on something I don't want to break further. > > -Dave > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Charles P. Steinmetz" <charles_steinmetz@lavabit.com> > To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> > Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 11:27:11 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > > Bruce wrote: > >> Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an asset in >> avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static discharges when >> handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray the Masonite >> with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make the masonite >> slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC connections >> could not >> safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that could be used >> to replace the Masonite? > > I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use > anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try > to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less > in the winter). I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35 > years and haven't lost one to static yet. With that perspective, my > preferred benchtop is white Formica with a very, very slightly > pebbled surface. Very durable, including to molten solder, and small > parts show up well. I use rubberized "gunsmith" mats for preventing > scratches to delicate workpieces (these happen to be anti-static, but > that is not why I have them). > > Other bench thoughts: > > Bench depth is very important. I sometimes work on equipment that is > more than 24" deep, so I want at least 30" of clear space in front of > any obstructions (power strips, Variac, test equipment, > whatever). In the past, I used a "flying bridge" over the rear 18" > of a 48"-deep bench to elevate the test equipment, which worked very > well. Now I use 24" deep adjustable wire-rack shelving units behind > a 30" benchtop (As others have pointed out, you can do the same with > equipment racks -- I'm not a fan of rack-mounting test equipment > unless the racks are anchored and everything is on slides, which I > was not prepared to do). I don't have enough shop real estate to > have a permanent access aisle behind the test equipment, so the bench > and racks have large (5") locking polyurethane wheels and can be > pulled out relatively easily for reconfiguration. This provides > plenty of stability for electronic projects, but you wouldn't want to > mount a big vise on the bench and try to bend 1" rebar. For that, I > have a separate metalworking shop. > > Bench height is also important. I prefer a tall bench, suited to > working standing or sitting on an ergonomic stool, so my bench top is > 44" above the floor -- a bit below my standing elbow height. > > Finally, one can never have too many power outlets, or too much > light, in a workshop. Lighting should be arranged so that it doesn't > cause specular reflections from the workpiece or the faces of test equipment. > > Best regards, > > Charles > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
JF
Joe Fitzgerald
Tue, Jan 26, 2010 6:23 PM

I am concerned about static discharges when
handling modern semiconductors.

These days it's not just semiconductors at risk given the tiny geometry of
passives.  At work we had a work station where we assembled a board with
all passive components, so no thought was given to ESD control.  We traced
a series of mysterious failures to ESD affecting the value of some
resistors.  Now ESD control is just about everywhere!

-Joe Fitzgerald KM1P

> I am concerned about static discharges when > handling modern semiconductors. These days it's not just semiconductors at risk given the tiny geometry of passives. At work we had a work station where we assembled a board with all passive components, so no thought was given to ESD control. We traced a series of mysterious failures to ESD affecting the value of some resistors. Now ESD control is just about everywhere! -Joe Fitzgerald KM1P
EP
Ed Palmer
Tue, Jan 26, 2010 8:42 PM

Everything old is new again.

The 25+ year old HP Bench Brief that I referred to a few messages back
warns about that.

Ed

Joe Fitzgerald wrote:

I am concerned about static discharges when
handling modern semiconductors.

These days it's not just semiconductors at risk given the tiny geometry of
passives.  At work we had a work station where we assembled a board with
all passive components, so no thought was given to ESD control.  We traced
a series of mysterious failures to ESD affecting the value of some
resistors.  Now ESD control is just about everywhere!

-Joe Fitzgerald KM1P


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and follow the instructions there.

Everything old is new again. The 25+ year old HP Bench Brief that I referred to a few messages back warns about that. Ed Joe Fitzgerald wrote: >> I am concerned about static discharges when >> handling modern semiconductors. >> > > These days it's not just semiconductors at risk given the tiny geometry of > passives. At work we had a work station where we assembled a board with > all passive components, so no thought was given to ESD control. We traced > a series of mysterious failures to ESD affecting the value of some > resistors. Now ESD control is just about everywhere! > > -Joe Fitzgerald KM1P > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
MD
Magnus Danielson
Tue, Jan 26, 2010 11:24 PM

Ed Palmer wrote:

Everything old is new again.

The 25+ year old HP Bench Brief that I referred to a few messages back
warns about that.

"Nothing usefull could be found in old documents, they just didn't have
the same technology as we have, and hence not the problems." Well, not
that much different. Scale is the main thing. People have been studying
all kinds of things, so good clues may still lay around if you dare look
for them.

Thanks for remembering this stuff.

Cheers,
Magnus

Ed Palmer wrote: > Everything old is new again. > > The 25+ year old HP Bench Brief that I referred to a few messages back > warns about that. "Nothing usefull could be found in old documents, they just didn't have the same technology as we have, and hence not the problems." Well, not that much different. Scale is the main thing. People have been studying all kinds of things, so good clues may still lay around if you dare look for them. Thanks for remembering this stuff. Cheers, Magnus
SR
Steve Rooke
Thu, Jan 28, 2010 2:23 AM

Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)...

:-)

Steve

2010/1/27 Bob Camp lists@cq.nu:

Hi

If you are manually loading up a wire bonder with conventional CMOS chips, ESD damage is a very real thing. You can haul the chip over to a SEM and actually take pictures of he craters you blast in it. Very cool pictures. No cat's, carpets, or Windhurst machines needed.  Just normal operators with missing wrist straps will do the trick quite nicely.

Bob

On Jan 26, 2010, at 2:21 AM, d.seiter@comcast.net wrote:

Back about 1981, we had piles of 6502s, etc and decide to some "antistatic testing". We put a 40pin ZIF socket into a VIC-20, and then set about trying to fry the uP using carpet, a cat, car seats, etc. The DUT was then put back into the VIC and series of tests run to verify operation. I don't think we ever had a failure. Of course, there may have been some hiding that we missed, but all the static damage I've seen has been pretty severe.

That said, I always use a wrist strap and mat if I'm working on something I don't want to break further.

-Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles P. Steinmetz" charles_steinmetz@lavabit.com
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 11:27:11 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Bruce wrote:

Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an asset in
avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static discharges when
handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray the Masonite
with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make the masonite
slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC connections
could not
safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that could be used
to replace the Masonite?

I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use
anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try
to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less
in the winter). I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35
years and haven't lost one to static yet. With that perspective, my
preferred benchtop is white Formica with a very, very slightly
pebbled surface. Very durable, including to molten solder, and small
parts show up well. I use rubberized "gunsmith" mats for preventing
scratches to delicate workpieces (these happen to be anti-static, but
that is not why I have them).

Other bench thoughts:

Bench depth is very important. I sometimes work on equipment that is
more than 24" deep, so I want at least 30" of clear space in front of
any obstructions (power strips, Variac, test equipment,
whatever). In the past, I used a "flying bridge" over the rear 18"
of a 48"-deep bench to elevate the test equipment, which worked very
well. Now I use 24" deep adjustable wire-rack shelving units behind
a 30" benchtop (As others have pointed out, you can do the same with
equipment racks -- I'm not a fan of rack-mounting test equipment
unless the racks are anchored and everything is on slides, which I
was not prepared to do). I don't have enough shop real estate to
have a permanent access aisle behind the test equipment, so the bench
and racks have large (5") locking polyurethane wheels and can be
pulled out relatively easily for reconfiguration. This provides
plenty of stability for electronic projects, but you wouldn't want to
mount a big vise on the bench and try to bend 1" rebar. For that, I
have a separate metalworking shop.

Bench height is also important. I prefer a tall bench, suited to
working standing or sitting on an ergonomic stool, so my bench top is
44" above the floor -- a bit below my standing elbow height.

Finally, one can never have too many power outlets, or too much
light, in a workshop. Lighting should be arranged so that it doesn't
cause specular reflections from the workpiece or the faces of test equipment.

Best regards,

Charles


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


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To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

--
Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD
A man with one clock knows what time it is;
A man with two clocks is never quite sure.

Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)... :-) Steve 2010/1/27 Bob Camp <lists@cq.nu>: > Hi > > If you are manually loading up a wire bonder with conventional CMOS chips, ESD damage is a very real thing. You can haul the chip over to a SEM and actually take pictures of he craters you blast in it. Very cool pictures. No cat's, carpets, or Windhurst machines needed.  Just normal operators with missing wrist straps will do the trick quite nicely. > > Bob > > > On Jan 26, 2010, at 2:21 AM, d.seiter@comcast.net wrote: > >> Back about 1981, we had piles of 6502s, etc and decide to some "antistatic testing". We put a 40pin ZIF socket into a VIC-20, and then set about trying to fry the uP using carpet, a cat, car seats, etc. The DUT was then put back into the VIC and series of tests run to verify operation. I don't think we ever had a failure. Of course, there may have been some hiding that we missed, but all the static damage I've seen has been pretty severe. >> >> That said, I always use a wrist strap and mat if I'm working on something I don't want to break further. >> >> -Dave >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Charles P. Steinmetz" <charles_steinmetz@lavabit.com> >> To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> >> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 11:27:11 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain >> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material >> >> Bruce wrote: >> >>> Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an asset in >>> avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static discharges when >>> handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray the Masonite >>> with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make the masonite >>> slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC connections >>> could not >>> safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that could be used >>> to replace the Masonite? >> >> I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use >> anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try >> to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less >> in the winter). I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35 >> years and haven't lost one to static yet. With that perspective, my >> preferred benchtop is white Formica with a very, very slightly >> pebbled surface. Very durable, including to molten solder, and small >> parts show up well. I use rubberized "gunsmith" mats for preventing >> scratches to delicate workpieces (these happen to be anti-static, but >> that is not why I have them). >> >> Other bench thoughts: >> >> Bench depth is very important. I sometimes work on equipment that is >> more than 24" deep, so I want at least 30" of clear space in front of >> any obstructions (power strips, Variac, test equipment, >> whatever). In the past, I used a "flying bridge" over the rear 18" >> of a 48"-deep bench to elevate the test equipment, which worked very >> well. Now I use 24" deep adjustable wire-rack shelving units behind >> a 30" benchtop (As others have pointed out, you can do the same with >> equipment racks -- I'm not a fan of rack-mounting test equipment >> unless the racks are anchored and everything is on slides, which I >> was not prepared to do). I don't have enough shop real estate to >> have a permanent access aisle behind the test equipment, so the bench >> and racks have large (5") locking polyurethane wheels and can be >> pulled out relatively easily for reconfiguration. This provides >> plenty of stability for electronic projects, but you wouldn't want to >> mount a big vise on the bench and try to bend 1" rebar. For that, I >> have a separate metalworking shop. >> >> Bench height is also important. I prefer a tall bench, suited to >> working standing or sitting on an ergonomic stool, so my bench top is >> 44" above the floor -- a bit below my standing elbow height. >> >> Finally, one can never have too many power outlets, or too much >> light, in a workshop. Lighting should be arranged so that it doesn't >> cause specular reflections from the workpiece or the faces of test equipment. >> >> Best regards, >> >> Charles >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > -- Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD A man with one clock knows what time it is; A man with two clocks is never quite sure.
MR
Max Robinson
Thu, Jan 28, 2010 5:33 AM

Steve wrote.

Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)...

Amen brother.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: max@maxsmusicplace.com

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
funwithtransistors-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Rooke" sar10538@gmail.com
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"
time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)...

:-)

Steve

2010/1/27 Bob Camp lists@cq.nu:

Hi

If you are manually loading up a wire bonder with conventional CMOS chips,
ESD damage is a very real thing. You can haul the chip over to a SEM and
actually take pictures of he craters you blast in it. Very cool pictures.
No cat's, carpets, or Windhurst machines needed. Just normal operators
with missing wrist straps will do the trick quite nicely.

Bob

On Jan 26, 2010, at 2:21 AM, d.seiter@comcast.net wrote:

Back about 1981, we had piles of 6502s, etc and decide to some
"antistatic testing". We put a 40pin ZIF socket into a VIC-20, and then
set about trying to fry the uP using carpet, a cat, car seats, etc. The
DUT was then put back into the VIC and series of tests run to verify
operation. I don't think we ever had a failure. Of course, there may have
been some hiding that we missed, but all the static damage I've seen has
been pretty severe.

That said, I always use a wrist strap and mat if I'm working on something
I don't want to break further.

-Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles P. Steinmetz" charles_steinmetz@lavabit.com
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"
time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 11:27:11 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Bruce wrote:

Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an asset in
avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static discharges
when
handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray the
Masonite
with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make the
masonite
slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC connections
could not
safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that could be
used
to replace the Masonite?

I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use
anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try
to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less
in the winter). I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35
years and haven't lost one to static yet. With that perspective, my
preferred benchtop is white Formica with a very, very slightly
pebbled surface. Very durable, including to molten solder, and small
parts show up well. I use rubberized "gunsmith" mats for preventing
scratches to delicate workpieces (these happen to be anti-static, but
that is not why I have them).

Other bench thoughts:

Bench depth is very important. I sometimes work on equipment that is
more than 24" deep, so I want at least 30" of clear space in front of
any obstructions (power strips, Variac, test equipment,
whatever). In the past, I used a "flying bridge" over the rear 18"
of a 48"-deep bench to elevate the test equipment, which worked very
well. Now I use 24" deep adjustable wire-rack shelving units behind
a 30" benchtop (As others have pointed out, you can do the same with
equipment racks -- I'm not a fan of rack-mounting test equipment
unless the racks are anchored and everything is on slides, which I
was not prepared to do). I don't have enough shop real estate to
have a permanent access aisle behind the test equipment, so the bench
and racks have large (5") locking polyurethane wheels and can be
pulled out relatively easily for reconfiguration. This provides
plenty of stability for electronic projects, but you wouldn't want to
mount a big vise on the bench and try to bend 1" rebar. For that, I
have a separate metalworking shop.

Bench height is also important. I prefer a tall bench, suited to
working standing or sitting on an ergonomic stool, so my bench top is
44" above the floor -- a bit below my standing elbow height.

Finally, one can never have too many power outlets, or too much
light, in a workshop. Lighting should be arranged so that it doesn't
cause specular reflections from the workpiece or the faces of test
equipment.

Best regards,

Charles


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--
Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD
A man with one clock knows what time it is;
A man with two clocks is never quite sure.


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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2650 - Release Date: 01/27/10
19:36:00

Steve wrote. Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)... Amen brother. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: max@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscribe@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscribe@yahoogroups.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Rooke" <sar10538@gmail.com> To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 8:23 PM Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)... :-) Steve 2010/1/27 Bob Camp <lists@cq.nu>: > Hi > > If you are manually loading up a wire bonder with conventional CMOS chips, > ESD damage is a very real thing. You can haul the chip over to a SEM and > actually take pictures of he craters you blast in it. Very cool pictures. > No cat's, carpets, or Windhurst machines needed. Just normal operators > with missing wrist straps will do the trick quite nicely. > > Bob > > > On Jan 26, 2010, at 2:21 AM, d.seiter@comcast.net wrote: > >> Back about 1981, we had piles of 6502s, etc and decide to some >> "antistatic testing". We put a 40pin ZIF socket into a VIC-20, and then >> set about trying to fry the uP using carpet, a cat, car seats, etc. The >> DUT was then put back into the VIC and series of tests run to verify >> operation. I don't think we ever had a failure. Of course, there may have >> been some hiding that we missed, but all the static damage I've seen has >> been pretty severe. >> >> That said, I always use a wrist strap and mat if I'm working on something >> I don't want to break further. >> >> -Dave >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Charles P. Steinmetz" <charles_steinmetz@lavabit.com> >> To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" >> <time-nuts@febo.com> >> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 11:27:11 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain >> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material >> >> Bruce wrote: >> >>> Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an asset in >>> avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static discharges >>> when >>> handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray the >>> Masonite >>> with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make the >>> masonite >>> slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC connections >>> could not >>> safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that could be >>> used >>> to replace the Masonite? >> >> I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use >> anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try >> to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less >> in the winter). I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35 >> years and haven't lost one to static yet. With that perspective, my >> preferred benchtop is white Formica with a very, very slightly >> pebbled surface. Very durable, including to molten solder, and small >> parts show up well. I use rubberized "gunsmith" mats for preventing >> scratches to delicate workpieces (these happen to be anti-static, but >> that is not why I have them). >> >> Other bench thoughts: >> >> Bench depth is very important. I sometimes work on equipment that is >> more than 24" deep, so I want at least 30" of clear space in front of >> any obstructions (power strips, Variac, test equipment, >> whatever). In the past, I used a "flying bridge" over the rear 18" >> of a 48"-deep bench to elevate the test equipment, which worked very >> well. Now I use 24" deep adjustable wire-rack shelving units behind >> a 30" benchtop (As others have pointed out, you can do the same with >> equipment racks -- I'm not a fan of rack-mounting test equipment >> unless the racks are anchored and everything is on slides, which I >> was not prepared to do). I don't have enough shop real estate to >> have a permanent access aisle behind the test equipment, so the bench >> and racks have large (5") locking polyurethane wheels and can be >> pulled out relatively easily for reconfiguration. This provides >> plenty of stability for electronic projects, but you wouldn't want to >> mount a big vise on the bench and try to bend 1" rebar. For that, I >> have a separate metalworking shop. >> >> Bench height is also important. I prefer a tall bench, suited to >> working standing or sitting on an ergonomic stool, so my bench top is >> 44" above the floor -- a bit below my standing elbow height. >> >> Finally, one can never have too many power outlets, or too much >> light, in a workshop. Lighting should be arranged so that it doesn't >> cause specular reflections from the workpiece or the faces of test >> equipment. >> >> Best regards, >> >> Charles >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > -- Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD A man with one clock knows what time it is; A man with two clocks is never quite sure. _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2650 - Release Date: 01/27/10 19:36:00
R
Rex
Thu, Jan 28, 2010 5:50 AM

Steve Rooke wrote:

Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)...

Nostalgia?

Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should
make that, on average, less helpful.

In the 60's listening to rock music, I could look at the final tubes in
a dark room and see the purple glow inside dance with the music.
Anyone else?
Solid state amps just can't do that. Way cool. I never tried it with
cannabis, but probably even better.

Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say
I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things.

Steve Rooke wrote: > Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)... Nostalgia? Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should make that, on average, less helpful. In the 60's listening to rock music, I could look at the final tubes in a dark room and see the purple glow inside dance with the music. Anyone else? Solid state amps just can't do that. Way cool. I never tried it with cannabis, but probably even better. Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things.
RA
Robert Atkinson
Thu, Jan 28, 2010 7:51 AM

And at least I can drop a transistor on the floor without too much damage ;-)
 
Robert G8RPI.

--- On Thu, 28/1/10, Rex rexa@sonic.net wrote:

From: Rex rexa@sonic.net
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Date: Thursday, 28 January, 2010, 5:50

Steve Rooke wrote:

Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)...

Nostalgia?

Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should make that, on average, less helpful.

In the 60's listening to rock music, I could look at the final tubes in a dark room and see the purple glow inside dance with the music.
Anyone else?
Solid state amps just can't do that. Way cool. I never tried it with cannabis, but probably even better.

Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

And at least I can drop a transistor on the floor without too much damage ;-)   Robert G8RPI. --- On Thu, 28/1/10, Rex <rexa@sonic.net> wrote: From: Rex <rexa@sonic.net> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> Date: Thursday, 28 January, 2010, 5:50 Steve Rooke wrote: > Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)... Nostalgia? Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should make that, on average, less helpful. In the 60's listening to rock music, I could look at the final tubes in a dark room and see the purple glow inside dance with the music. Anyone else? Solid state amps just can't do that. Way cool. I never tried it with cannabis, but probably even better. Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things. _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
NM
Neville Michie
Thu, Jan 28, 2010 8:05 AM

And no-one ever invented complimentary N channel and P channel valves
(tubes).
And they had a service life of 5000 hours and they stoppd working
properly.

On 28/01/2010, at 6:51 PM, Robert Atkinson wrote:

And at least I can drop a transistor on the floor without too much
damage ;-)

Robert G8RPI.

--- On Thu, 28/1/10, Rex rexa@sonic.net wrote:

From: Rex rexa@sonic.net
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-
nuts@febo.com>
Date: Thursday, 28 January, 2010, 5:50

Steve Rooke wrote:

Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)...

Nostalgia?

Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming
should make that, on average, less helpful.

In the 60's listening to rock music, I could look at the final
tubes in a dark room and see the purple glow inside dance with the
music.
Anyone else?
Solid state amps just can't do that. Way cool. I never tried it
with cannabis, but probably even better.

Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power,
I'll say I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/
time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/
time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

And no-one ever invented complimentary N channel and P channel valves (tubes). And they had a service life of 5000 hours and they stoppd working properly. On 28/01/2010, at 6:51 PM, Robert Atkinson wrote: > And at least I can drop a transistor on the floor without too much > damage ;-) > > Robert G8RPI. > > --- On Thu, 28/1/10, Rex <rexa@sonic.net> wrote: > > > From: Rex <rexa@sonic.net> > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time- > nuts@febo.com> > Date: Thursday, 28 January, 2010, 5:50 > > > Steve Rooke wrote: >> Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)... > Nostalgia? > > Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming > should make that, on average, less helpful. > > In the 60's listening to rock music, I could look at the final > tubes in a dark room and see the purple glow inside dance with the > music. > Anyone else? > Solid state amps just can't do that. Way cool. I never tried it > with cannabis, but probably even better. > > Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, > I'll say I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things. > > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/ > time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/ > time-nuts > and follow the instructions there.
BH
Bill Hawkins
Thu, Jan 28, 2010 9:28 AM

Warning: Way OT

When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many people on
this planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few
people will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind
spot in the brain. Maybe there's no intelligent life in the
Universe because all life evolves with similar selection pressures.
Once technology removes natural predators (or stops world wars with
the atomic bomb), population heads for the sky until the big die-off.

If other people don't have a problem with having four kids, I have
no problem with using vacuum tubes and Edison bulbs.

All in my humble opinion, of course.

Bill Hawkins

-----Original Message-----
From: Rex
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 11:50 PM

Steve Rooke wrote:

Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)...

Nostalgia?

Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should
make that, on average, less helpful.
........
glowing bulbs
Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say
I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things.

Warning: Way OT When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many people on this planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few people will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind spot in the brain. Maybe there's no intelligent life in the Universe because all life evolves with similar selection pressures. Once technology removes natural predators (or stops world wars with the atomic bomb), population heads for the sky until the big die-off. If other people don't have a problem with having four kids, I have no problem with using vacuum tubes and Edison bulbs. All in my humble opinion, of course. Bill Hawkins -----Original Message----- From: Rex Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 11:50 PM Steve Rooke wrote: > Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)... Nostalgia? Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should make that, on average, less helpful. ........ glowing bulbs Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things.
PK
Poul-Henning Kamp
Thu, Jan 28, 2010 11:12 AM

In message 924780D899C84029950F3D9CAEE28054@cyrus, "Bill Hawkins" writes:

When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many people on
this planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few
people will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind
spot in the brain.

No, the blind spot is making a big issue out of population control
in countries where the environmental footprint per person is virtually
nill essential zero, in order to obscure the fact that approx 1% of
the population of the planet is responsible for 99.99% of our
problems, environmental or otherwise.

Poul-Henning

--
Poul-Henning Kamp      | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
phk@FreeBSD.ORG        | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer      | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.

In message <924780D899C84029950F3D9CAEE28054@cyrus>, "Bill Hawkins" writes: >When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many people on >this planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few >people will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind >spot in the brain. No, the blind spot is making a big issue out of population control in countries where the environmental footprint per person is virtually nill essential zero, in order to obscure the fact that approx 1% of the population of the planet is responsible for 99.99% of our problems, environmental or otherwise. Poul-Henning -- Poul-Henning Kamp | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20 phk@FreeBSD.ORG | TCP/IP since RFC 956 FreeBSD committer | BSD since 4.3-tahoe Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.
BC
Bob Camp
Thu, Jan 28, 2010 12:21 PM

Hi

If we ever go back to tubes we're going to have a bunch of tech's knocked out on the floor. Nobody has a clue about high voltage any more. You had to have a good respect for it on a tube circuit or you got in big trouble.

Bob

On Jan 27, 2010, at 9:23 PM, Steve Rooke wrote:

Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)...

:-)

Steve

2010/1/27 Bob Camp lists@cq.nu:

Hi

If you are manually loading up a wire bonder with conventional CMOS chips, ESD damage is a very real thing. You can haul the chip over to a SEM and actually take pictures of he craters you blast in it. Very cool pictures. No cat's, carpets, or Windhurst machines needed.  Just normal operators with missing wrist straps will do the trick quite nicely.

Bob

On Jan 26, 2010, at 2:21 AM, d.seiter@comcast.net wrote:

Back about 1981, we had piles of 6502s, etc and decide to some "antistatic testing". We put a 40pin ZIF socket into a VIC-20, and then set about trying to fry the uP using carpet, a cat, car seats, etc. The DUT was then put back into the VIC and series of tests run to verify operation. I don't think we ever had a failure. Of course, there may have been some hiding that we missed, but all the static damage I've seen has been pretty severe.

That said, I always use a wrist strap and mat if I'm working on something I don't want to break further.

-Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles P. Steinmetz" charles_steinmetz@lavabit.com
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 11:27:11 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Bruce wrote:

Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an asset in
avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static discharges when
handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray the Masonite
with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make the masonite
slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC connections
could not
safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that could be used
to replace the Masonite?

I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use
anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try
to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less
in the winter). I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35
years and haven't lost one to static yet. With that perspective, my
preferred benchtop is white Formica with a very, very slightly
pebbled surface. Very durable, including to molten solder, and small
parts show up well. I use rubberized "gunsmith" mats for preventing
scratches to delicate workpieces (these happen to be anti-static, but
that is not why I have them).

Other bench thoughts:

Bench depth is very important. I sometimes work on equipment that is
more than 24" deep, so I want at least 30" of clear space in front of
any obstructions (power strips, Variac, test equipment,
whatever). In the past, I used a "flying bridge" over the rear 18"
of a 48"-deep bench to elevate the test equipment, which worked very
well. Now I use 24" deep adjustable wire-rack shelving units behind
a 30" benchtop (As others have pointed out, you can do the same with
equipment racks -- I'm not a fan of rack-mounting test equipment
unless the racks are anchored and everything is on slides, which I
was not prepared to do). I don't have enough shop real estate to
have a permanent access aisle behind the test equipment, so the bench
and racks have large (5") locking polyurethane wheels and can be
pulled out relatively easily for reconfiguration. This provides
plenty of stability for electronic projects, but you wouldn't want to
mount a big vise on the bench and try to bend 1" rebar. For that, I
have a separate metalworking shop.

Bench height is also important. I prefer a tall bench, suited to
working standing or sitting on an ergonomic stool, so my bench top is
44" above the floor -- a bit below my standing elbow height.

Finally, one can never have too many power outlets, or too much
light, in a workshop. Lighting should be arranged so that it doesn't
cause specular reflections from the workpiece or the faces of test equipment.

Best regards,

Charles


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--
Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD
A man with one clock knows what time it is;
A man with two clocks is never quite sure.


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Hi If we ever go back to tubes we're going to have a bunch of tech's knocked out on the floor. Nobody has a clue about high voltage any more. You had to have a good respect for it on a tube circuit or you got in big trouble. Bob On Jan 27, 2010, at 9:23 PM, Steve Rooke wrote: > Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)... > > :-) > > Steve > > 2010/1/27 Bob Camp <lists@cq.nu>: >> Hi >> >> If you are manually loading up a wire bonder with conventional CMOS chips, ESD damage is a very real thing. You can haul the chip over to a SEM and actually take pictures of he craters you blast in it. Very cool pictures. No cat's, carpets, or Windhurst machines needed. Just normal operators with missing wrist straps will do the trick quite nicely. >> >> Bob >> >> >> On Jan 26, 2010, at 2:21 AM, d.seiter@comcast.net wrote: >> >>> Back about 1981, we had piles of 6502s, etc and decide to some "antistatic testing". We put a 40pin ZIF socket into a VIC-20, and then set about trying to fry the uP using carpet, a cat, car seats, etc. The DUT was then put back into the VIC and series of tests run to verify operation. I don't think we ever had a failure. Of course, there may have been some hiding that we missed, but all the static damage I've seen has been pretty severe. >>> >>> That said, I always use a wrist strap and mat if I'm working on something I don't want to break further. >>> >>> -Dave >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Charles P. Steinmetz" <charles_steinmetz@lavabit.com> >>> To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> >>> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 11:27:11 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain >>> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material >>> >>> Bruce wrote: >>> >>>> Although over the years the non-conductive top has been an asset in >>>> avoiding short circuits, etc., I am concerned about static discharges when >>>> handling modern semiconductors. Would it make sense to spray the Masonite >>>> with a weak copper sulphate or similar solution so as to make the masonite >>>> slightly conductive, but not so conductive that 155 VAC connections >>>> could not >>>> safely rest upon it? Is there a better-suited material that could be used >>>> to replace the Masonite? >>> >>> I notice that many folks who have contributed on this thread use >>> anti-static benchtops, but I have never found it necessary (and I try >>> to keep the RH in my house under 45% -- it is generally 20% or less >>> in the winter). I've been fooling with static-sensitive parts for 35 >>> years and haven't lost one to static yet. With that perspective, my >>> preferred benchtop is white Formica with a very, very slightly >>> pebbled surface. Very durable, including to molten solder, and small >>> parts show up well. I use rubberized "gunsmith" mats for preventing >>> scratches to delicate workpieces (these happen to be anti-static, but >>> that is not why I have them). >>> >>> Other bench thoughts: >>> >>> Bench depth is very important. I sometimes work on equipment that is >>> more than 24" deep, so I want at least 30" of clear space in front of >>> any obstructions (power strips, Variac, test equipment, >>> whatever). In the past, I used a "flying bridge" over the rear 18" >>> of a 48"-deep bench to elevate the test equipment, which worked very >>> well. Now I use 24" deep adjustable wire-rack shelving units behind >>> a 30" benchtop (As others have pointed out, you can do the same with >>> equipment racks -- I'm not a fan of rack-mounting test equipment >>> unless the racks are anchored and everything is on slides, which I >>> was not prepared to do). I don't have enough shop real estate to >>> have a permanent access aisle behind the test equipment, so the bench >>> and racks have large (5") locking polyurethane wheels and can be >>> pulled out relatively easily for reconfiguration. This provides >>> plenty of stability for electronic projects, but you wouldn't want to >>> mount a big vise on the bench and try to bend 1" rebar. For that, I >>> have a separate metalworking shop. >>> >>> Bench height is also important. I prefer a tall bench, suited to >>> working standing or sitting on an ergonomic stool, so my bench top is >>> 44" above the floor -- a bit below my standing elbow height. >>> >>> Finally, one can never have too many power outlets, or too much >>> light, in a workshop. Lighting should be arranged so that it doesn't >>> cause specular reflections from the workpiece or the faces of test equipment. >>> >>> Best regards, >>> >>> Charles >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >>> and follow the instructions there. >>> _______________________________________________ >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> > > > > -- > Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD > A man with one clock knows what time it is; > A man with two clocks is never quite sure. > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
SR
Steve Rooke
Thu, Jan 28, 2010 12:30 PM

2010/1/28 Bill Hawkins bill@iaxs.net:

Warning: Way OT

When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many people on
this planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few
people will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind
spot in the brain. Maybe there's no intelligent life in the
Universe because all life evolves with similar selection pressures.
Once technology removes natural predators (or stops world wars with
the atomic bomb), population heads for the sky until the big die-off.

If other people don't have a problem with having four kids, I have
no problem with using vacuum tubes and Edison bulbs.

All in my humble opinion, of course.

True, but I can never recall having a problem with ESD with them
(which was the current topic of the thread).

Steve

Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD
A man with one clock knows what time it is;
A man with two clocks is never quite sure.

2010/1/28 Bill Hawkins <bill@iaxs.net>: > Warning: Way OT > > When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many people on > this planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few > people will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind > spot in the brain. Maybe there's no intelligent life in the > Universe because all life evolves with similar selection pressures. > Once technology removes natural predators (or stops world wars with > the atomic bomb), population heads for the sky until the big die-off. > > If other people don't have a problem with having four kids, I have > no problem with using vacuum tubes and Edison bulbs. > > All in my humble opinion, of course. True, but I can never recall having a problem with ESD with them (which was the current topic of the thread). Steve -- Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD A man with one clock knows what time it is; A man with two clocks is never quite sure.
SR
Steve Rooke
Thu, Jan 28, 2010 12:48 PM

2010/1/28 Rex rexa@sonic.net:

Steve Rooke wrote:

Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)...

Nostalgia?

Nostalgia ain't what it used to be!

Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should make
that, on average, less helpful.

And we heated our houses less.

In the 60's listening to rock music, I could look at the final tubes in a
dark room and see the purple glow inside dance with the music.
Anyone else?

Way, way back I was listening in the background to an old Teak amp one
day when I thought that it sounded a bit distorted. Went over to look
at the chassis and saw one of the valves in the output stage with it's
anode glowing red! Hmmm, seems it was conducting just a little more
than it was supposed to do due to a biasing component failure. A
couple of minutes later and some work with a soldering iron and the
sound was fine again. That chassis went on forever on that same valve.

Solid state amps just can't do that. Way cool. I never tried it with
cannabis, but probably even better.

They soon go legs up if you apply too much voltage or current which
valves would just shrug off.

Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say I
no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things.

They certainly still held their own in high power RF stages but I
wouldn't go out of my way to build something out of them now.

As for conductive surfaces for benches and the like, RS Components
used to sell a static conducting matting by the square yard that you
could order. It was a yellow and about 1/8" thick flexible dense
rubberized material. We covered our benches and floor around our
workplaces and had the press-stud fittings riveted to them so you
could clip your earthing strap to it. It was very hard waring and
coped well with molten solder dripping onto it. I believe I still have
a sheet of it somewhere in the garage.

73
Steve

Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD
A man with one clock knows what time it is;
A man with two clocks is never quite sure.

2010/1/28 Rex <rexa@sonic.net>: > Steve Rooke wrote: >> >> Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)... > > Nostalgia? Nostalgia ain't what it used to be! > Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should make > that, on average, less helpful. And we heated our houses less. > In the 60's listening to rock music, I could look at the final tubes in a > dark room and see the purple glow inside dance with the music. > Anyone else? Way, way back I was listening in the background to an old Teak amp one day when I thought that it sounded a bit distorted. Went over to look at the chassis and saw one of the valves in the output stage with it's anode glowing red! Hmmm, seems it was conducting just a little more than it was supposed to do due to a biasing component failure. A couple of minutes later and some work with a soldering iron and the sound was fine again. That chassis went on forever on that same valve. > Solid state amps just can't do that. Way cool. I never tried it with > cannabis, but probably even better. They soon go legs up if you apply too much voltage or current which valves would just shrug off. > Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say I > no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things. They certainly still held their own in high power RF stages but I wouldn't go out of my way to build something out of them now. As for conductive surfaces for benches and the like, RS Components used to sell a static conducting matting by the square yard that you could order. It was a yellow and about 1/8" thick flexible dense rubberized material. We covered our benches and floor around our workplaces and had the press-stud fittings riveted to them so you could clip your earthing strap to it. It was very hard waring and coped well with molten solder dripping onto it. I believe I still have a sheet of it somewhere in the garage. 73 Steve -- Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD A man with one clock knows what time it is; A man with two clocks is never quite sure.
SR
Steve Rooke
Thu, Jan 28, 2010 12:57 PM

2010/1/28 Neville Michie namichie@gmail.com:

And no-one ever invented complimentary N channel and P channel valves
(tubes).

True but they did come up with a lot of designs involving multiple
grids etc which allowed a single valve to perform more complex
functions. Remember the old magic-eye indicators, triodes and pentodes
in the same envelope, mixers, etc.

And they had a service life of 5000 hours and they stoppd working properly.

And they were easy to fault-find, and replacement was a breeze.

I'm too far off topic now, sorry to hi-jack the thread.

Steve

Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD
A man with one clock knows what time it is;
A man with two clocks is never quite sure.

2010/1/28 Neville Michie <namichie@gmail.com>: > And no-one ever invented complimentary N channel and P channel valves > (tubes). True but they did come up with a lot of designs involving multiple grids etc which allowed a single valve to perform more complex functions. Remember the old magic-eye indicators, triodes and pentodes in the same envelope, mixers, etc. > And they had a service life of 5000 hours and they stoppd working properly. And they were easy to fault-find, and replacement was a breeze. I'm too far off topic now, sorry to hi-jack the thread. Steve -- Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD A man with one clock knows what time it is; A man with two clocks is never quite sure.
SR
Steve Rooke
Thu, Jan 28, 2010 1:04 PM

2010/1/29 Bob Camp lists@cq.nu:

If we ever go back to tubes we're going to have a bunch of tech's knocked out on the floor. Nobody has a clue about high voltage any more. You had to have a good respect for it on a tube circuit or you got in big trouble.

Remember the valves that used to have the grid at the top of the
envelope via a separate connection. That made it real easy to inject a
signal for tracing through the circuit, you just put your finger on it
and listened for mains hum at the speaker, for instance. hat was
alright till you found the valve that had an anode at the top...

That's going back a looong way.

Steve

Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD
A man with one clock knows what time it is;
A man with two clocks is never quite sure.

2010/1/29 Bob Camp <lists@cq.nu>: > If we ever go back to tubes we're going to have a bunch of tech's knocked out on the floor. Nobody has a clue about high voltage any more. You had to have a good respect for it on a tube circuit or you got in big trouble. Remember the valves that used to have the grid at the top of the envelope via a separate connection. That made it real easy to inject a signal for tracing through the circuit, you just put your finger on it and listened for mains hum at the speaker, for instance. hat was alright till you found the valve that had an anode at the top... That's going back a looong way. Steve -- Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD A man with one clock knows what time it is; A man with two clocks is never quite sure.
DS
d.seiter@comcast.net
Fri, Jan 29, 2010 7:32 AM

And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I hope the LED equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs seem to last less in most home apps. (I have "standard" bulbs that have outlasted multiple CF bulbs in similar applications) In particular, I have a 75W desk lamp bulb which has been in use since '97 and gets more hours than the ceiling CFs in the same room, which have been replaced at least 3 times...

They are not enclosed or abused. I was really PO'd at the short life of my first set of CF lamps. They seem to be doing better now, but still there is no great enhanced life span.

Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Hawkins" bill@iaxs.net
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 2:28:31 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Warning: Way OT

When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many people on
this planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few
people will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind
spot in the brain. Maybe there's no intelligent life in the
Universe because all life evolves with similar selection pressures.
Once technology removes natural predators (or stops world wars with
the atomic bomb), population heads for the sky until the big die-off.

If other people don't have a problem with having four kids, I have
no problem with using vacuum tubes and Edison bulbs.

All in my humble opinion, of course.

Bill Hawkins

-----Original Message-----
From: Rex
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 11:50 PM

Steve Rooke wrote:

Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)...

Nostalgia?

Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should
make that, on average, less helpful.
........
glowing bulbs
Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say
I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I hope the LED equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs seem to last less in most home apps. (I have "standard" bulbs that have outlasted multiple CF bulbs in similar applications) In particular, I have a 75W desk lamp bulb which has been in use since '97 and gets more hours than the ceiling CFs in the same room, which have been replaced at least 3 times... They are not enclosed or abused. I was really PO'd at the short life of my first set of CF lamps. They seem to be doing better now, but still there is no great enhanced life span. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Hawkins" <bill@iaxs.net> To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 2:28:31 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material Warning: Way OT When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many people on this planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few people will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind spot in the brain. Maybe there's no intelligent life in the Universe because all life evolves with similar selection pressures. Once technology removes natural predators (or stops world wars with the atomic bomb), population heads for the sky until the big die-off. If other people don't have a problem with having four kids, I have no problem with using vacuum tubes and Edison bulbs. All in my humble opinion, of course. Bill Hawkins -----Original Message----- From: Rex Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 11:50 PM Steve Rooke wrote: > Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)... Nostalgia? Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should make that, on average, less helpful. ........ glowing bulbs Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things. _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
BC
Bob Camp
Fri, Jan 29, 2010 12:22 PM

Hi

At least down here the CF lamps seem to run at least 2X and probably more than that compared to the old style bulbs. There are 20 of them in this room so that's a pretty good sample.

The big thing I notice is that the room does not self heat as much with 1/10th the power going into it. Right now a little self heating might be nice. Not so much so in the summer ....

The only issue I've seen is that they don't seem to like tightly enclosed fixtures very much. They seem to need a much lower temperature at the base than an old style bulb. In a can light, or most open fixtures that's not an problem. In some covered / enclosed celling fixtures they don't seem to get the cooling they need.

Bob

On Jan 29, 2010, at 2:32 AM, d.seiter@comcast.net wrote:

And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I hope the LED equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs seem to last less in most home apps. (I have "standard" bulbs that have outlasted multiple CF bulbs in similar applications) In particular, I have a 75W desk lamp bulb which has been in use since '97 and gets more hours than the ceiling CFs in the same room, which have been replaced at least 3 times...

They are not enclosed or abused. I was really PO'd at the short life of my first set of CF lamps. They seem to be doing better now, but still there is no great enhanced life span.

Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Hawkins" bill@iaxs.net
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 2:28:31 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Warning: Way OT

When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many people on
this planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few
people will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind
spot in the brain. Maybe there's no intelligent life in the
Universe because all life evolves with similar selection pressures.
Once technology removes natural predators (or stops world wars with
the atomic bomb), population heads for the sky until the big die-off.

If other people don't have a problem with having four kids, I have
no problem with using vacuum tubes and Edison bulbs.

All in my humble opinion, of course.

Bill Hawkins

-----Original Message-----
From: Rex
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 11:50 PM

Steve Rooke wrote:

Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)...

Nostalgia?

Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should
make that, on average, less helpful.
........
glowing bulbs
Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say
I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Hi At least down here the CF lamps seem to run at least 2X and probably more than that compared to the old style bulbs. There are 20 of them in this room so that's a pretty good sample. The big thing I notice is that the room does not self heat as much with 1/10th the power going into it. Right now a little self heating might be nice. Not so much so in the summer .... The only issue I've seen is that they don't seem to like tightly enclosed fixtures very much. They seem to need a much lower temperature at the base than an old style bulb. In a can light, or most open fixtures that's not an problem. In some covered / enclosed celling fixtures they don't seem to get the cooling they need. Bob On Jan 29, 2010, at 2:32 AM, d.seiter@comcast.net wrote: > And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I hope the LED equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs seem to last less in most home apps. (I have "standard" bulbs that have outlasted multiple CF bulbs in similar applications) In particular, I have a 75W desk lamp bulb which has been in use since '97 and gets more hours than the ceiling CFs in the same room, which have been replaced at least 3 times... > > They are not enclosed or abused. I was really PO'd at the short life of my first set of CF lamps. They seem to be doing better now, but still there is no great enhanced life span. > > Dave > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill Hawkins" <bill@iaxs.net> > To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> > Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 2:28:31 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > > Warning: Way OT > > When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many people on > this planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few > people will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind > spot in the brain. Maybe there's no intelligent life in the > Universe because all life evolves with similar selection pressures. > Once technology removes natural predators (or stops world wars with > the atomic bomb), population heads for the sky until the big die-off. > > If other people don't have a problem with having four kids, I have > no problem with using vacuum tubes and Edison bulbs. > > All in my humble opinion, of course. > > Bill Hawkins > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rex > Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 11:50 PM > > Steve Rooke wrote: >> Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)... > Nostalgia? > > Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should > make that, on average, less helpful. > ........ > glowing bulbs > Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say > I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
PK
Poul-Henning Kamp
Fri, Jan 29, 2010 2:20 PM

In message 6755CB2A-9566-4F35-818E-38471BE6528F@cq.nu, Bob Camp writes:

And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I hope
the LED equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs seem to last
less in most home apps.

Speaking of LED lamps: I want to point out that at least over here
IKEA has a wonderful little LED lamp for the worktable.

It's a single 3W white led, at the end of a 55cm long (that's 20" for
the imperialists amongst us) "swan-neck".

I use one for my small CNC-mill:

http://ing.dk/uploads/society/content/232.png

It's called "JAN SJÖ" here, not sure if they use that name in other
geographies.

Highly recommended.

--
Poul-Henning Kamp      | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
phk@FreeBSD.ORG        | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer      | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.

In message <6755CB2A-9566-4F35-818E-38471BE6528F@cq.nu>, Bob Camp writes: >> And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I hope >> the LED equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs seem to last >> less in most home apps. Speaking of LED lamps: I want to point out that at least over here IKEA has a wonderful little LED lamp for the worktable. It's a single 3W white led, at the end of a 55cm long (that's 20" for the imperialists amongst us) "swan-neck". I use one for my small CNC-mill: http://ing.dk/uploads/society/content/232.png It's called "JAN SJÖ" here, not sure if they use that name in other geographies. Highly recommended. -- Poul-Henning Kamp | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20 phk@FreeBSD.ORG | TCP/IP since RFC 956 FreeBSD committer | BSD since 4.3-tahoe Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.
EP
Ed Palmer
Fri, Jan 29, 2010 2:29 PM

The most important thing to remember about CFLs is don't use them
anywhere that they will be turned on and off a lot (e.g. bathrooms).
Use them where they'll be turned on and left on.  Short on / off cycles
can reduce their lifetime to 15% of normal.  Here's a report on the
subject:

http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/nlpip/publicationDetails.asp?id=114&type=1

Ed

d.seiter@comcast.net wrote:

And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I hope the LED equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs seem to last less in most home apps. (I have "standard" bulbs that have outlasted multiple CF bulbs in similar applications) In particular, I have a 75W desk lamp bulb which has been in use since '97 and gets more hours than the ceiling CFs in the same room, which have been replaced at least 3 times...

They are not enclosed or abused. I was really PO'd at the short life of my first set of CF lamps. They seem to be doing better now, but still there is no great enhanced life span.

Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Hawkins" bill@iaxs.net
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 2:28:31 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Warning: Way OT

When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many people on
this planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few
people will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind
spot in the brain. Maybe there's no intelligent life in the
Universe because all life evolves with similar selection pressures.
Once technology removes natural predators (or stops world wars with
the atomic bomb), population heads for the sky until the big die-off.

If other people don't have a problem with having four kids, I have
no problem with using vacuum tubes and Edison bulbs.

All in my humble opinion, of course.

Bill Hawkins

-----Original Message-----
From: Rex
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 11:50 PM

Steve Rooke wrote:

Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)...

Nostalgia?

Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should
make that, on average, less helpful.
........
glowing bulbs
Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say
I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
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and follow the instructions there.

The most important thing to remember about CFLs is *don't* use them anywhere that they will be turned on and off a lot (e.g. bathrooms). Use them where they'll be turned on and left on. Short on / off cycles can reduce their lifetime to 15% of normal. Here's a report on the subject: http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/nlpip/publicationDetails.asp?id=114&type=1 Ed d.seiter@comcast.net wrote: > And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I hope the LED equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs seem to last less in most home apps. (I have "standard" bulbs that have outlasted multiple CF bulbs in similar applications) In particular, I have a 75W desk lamp bulb which has been in use since '97 and gets more hours than the ceiling CFs in the same room, which have been replaced at least 3 times... > > They are not enclosed or abused. I was really PO'd at the short life of my first set of CF lamps. They seem to be doing better now, but still there is no great enhanced life span. > > Dave > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill Hawkins" <bill@iaxs.net> > To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> > Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 2:28:31 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > > Warning: Way OT > > When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many people on > this planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few > people will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind > spot in the brain. Maybe there's no intelligent life in the > Universe because all life evolves with similar selection pressures. > Once technology removes natural predators (or stops world wars with > the atomic bomb), population heads for the sky until the big die-off. > > If other people don't have a problem with having four kids, I have > no problem with using vacuum tubes and Edison bulbs. > > All in my humble opinion, of course. > > Bill Hawkins > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rex > Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 11:50 PM > > Steve Rooke wrote: > >> Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)... >> > Nostalgia? > > Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should > make that, on average, less helpful. > ........ > glowing bulbs > Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say > I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > >
BC
Brooke Clarke
Fri, Jan 29, 2010 4:59 PM

Hi Poul:

Can the base be hung on a wall?
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10128734

Have Fun,

Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com

Poul-Henning Kamp wrote:

Speaking of LED lamps: I want to point out that at least over here
IKEA has a wonderful little LED lamp for the worktable.

It's a single 3W white led, at the end of a 55cm long (that's 20" for
the imperialists amongst us) "swan-neck".

I use one for my small CNC-mill:

http://ing.dk/uploads/society/content/232.png

It's called "JAN SJÖ" here, not sure if they use that name in other
geographies.

Highly recommended.

Hi Poul: Can the base be hung on a wall? http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10128734 Have Fun, Brooke Clarke http://www.PRC68.com Poul-Henning Kamp wrote: > Speaking of LED lamps: I want to point out that at least over here > IKEA has a wonderful little LED lamp for the worktable. > > It's a single 3W white led, at the end of a 55cm long (that's 20" for > the imperialists amongst us) "swan-neck". > > I use one for my small CNC-mill: > > http://ing.dk/uploads/society/content/232.png > > It's called "JAN SJÖ" here, not sure if they use that name in other > geographies. > > Highly recommended. > >
PK
Poul-Henning Kamp
Fri, Jan 29, 2010 5:06 PM

In message 4B631407.9090305@pacific.net, Brooke Clarke writes:

Hi Poul:

Can the base be hung on a wall?
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10128734

The base is a lump of metal

But the swan-neck is just screwed into the base (some assembly :-)
so if you are comfortable with cutting the wire and splicing it
again, you can mount it on anything you can drill a 10mm hole in...

--
Poul-Henning Kamp      | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
phk@FreeBSD.ORG        | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer      | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.

In message <4B631407.9090305@pacific.net>, Brooke Clarke writes: >Hi Poul: > >Can the base be hung on a wall? >http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10128734 The base is a lump of metal But the swan-neck is just screwed into the base (some assembly :-) so if you are comfortable with cutting the wire and splicing it again, you can mount it on anything you can drill a 10mm hole in... -- Poul-Henning Kamp | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20 phk@FreeBSD.ORG | TCP/IP since RFC 956 FreeBSD committer | BSD since 4.3-tahoe Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.
BC
Bob Camp
Fri, Jan 29, 2010 5:37 PM

Hi

But wouldn't cutting and splicing the wire void the warranty and possibly
thus lead to the end of civilization as we know it....

Where is the AC to DC conversion done? In a lot of these it's in the base.

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Poul-Henning Kamp
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 12:07 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp

In message 4B631407.9090305@pacific.net, Brooke Clarke writes:

Hi Poul:

Can the base be hung on a wall?
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10128734

The base is a lump of metal

But the swan-neck is just screwed into the base (some assembly :-)
so if you are comfortable with cutting the wire and splicing it
again, you can mount it on anything you can drill a 10mm hole in...

--
Poul-Henning Kamp      | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
phk@FreeBSD.ORG        | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer      | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Hi But wouldn't cutting and splicing the wire void the warranty and possibly thus lead to the end of civilization as we know it.... Where is the AC to DC conversion done? In a lot of these it's in the base. Bob -----Original Message----- From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Poul-Henning Kamp Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 12:07 PM To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp In message <4B631407.9090305@pacific.net>, Brooke Clarke writes: >Hi Poul: > >Can the base be hung on a wall? >http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10128734 The base is a lump of metal But the swan-neck is just screwed into the base (some assembly :-) so if you are comfortable with cutting the wire and splicing it again, you can mount it on anything you can drill a 10mm hole in... -- Poul-Henning Kamp | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20 phk@FreeBSD.ORG | TCP/IP since RFC 956 FreeBSD committer | BSD since 4.3-tahoe Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence. _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
PK
Poul-Henning Kamp
Fri, Jan 29, 2010 5:48 PM

In message E580BC8AE64F443288DA889E7EA5CE17@vectron.com, "Bob Camp" writes:

Where is the AC to DC conversion done? In a lot of these it's in the base.

In the tiny wall-wart.

--
Poul-Henning Kamp      | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
phk@FreeBSD.ORG        | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer      | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.

In message <E580BC8AE64F443288DA889E7EA5CE17@vectron.com>, "Bob Camp" writes: >Where is the AC to DC conversion done? In a lot of these it's in the base. In the tiny wall-wart. -- Poul-Henning Kamp | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20 phk@FreeBSD.ORG | TCP/IP since RFC 956 FreeBSD committer | BSD since 4.3-tahoe Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.
MR
Max Robinson
Fri, Jan 29, 2010 7:39 PM

I've heard you can salvage some good rectifiers and maybe a transistor or
two from dead CF bulbs.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: max@maxsmusicplace.com

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
funwithtransistors-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
funwithtubes-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

----- Original Message -----
From: d.seiter@comcast.net
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"
time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 1:32 AM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I hope the LED
equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs seem to last less in most
home apps. (I have "standard" bulbs that have outlasted multiple CF bulbs
in similar applications) In particular, I have a 75W desk lamp bulb which
has been in use since '97 and gets more hours than the ceiling CFs in the
same room, which have been replaced at least 3 times...

They are not enclosed or abused. I was really PO'd at the short life of my
first set of CF lamps. They seem to be doing better now, but still there
is no great enhanced life span.

Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Hawkins" bill@iaxs.net
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"
time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 2:28:31 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Warning: Way OT

When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many people on
this planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few
people will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind
spot in the brain. Maybe there's no intelligent life in the
Universe because all life evolves with similar selection pressures.
Once technology removes natural predators (or stops world wars with
the atomic bomb), population heads for the sky until the big die-off.

If other people don't have a problem with having four kids, I have
no problem with using vacuum tubes and Edison bulbs.

All in my humble opinion, of course.

Bill Hawkins

-----Original Message-----
From: Rex
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 11:50 PM

Steve Rooke wrote:

Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)...

Nostalgia?

Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should
make that, on average, less helpful.
........
glowing bulbs
Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say
I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
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and follow the instructions there.


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2654 - Release Date: 01/28/10
19:36:00

I've heard you can salvage some good rectifiers and maybe a transistor or two from dead CF bulbs. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: max@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscribe@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscribe@yahoogroups.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <d.seiter@comcast.net> To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 1:32 AM Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I hope the LED > equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs seem to last less in most > home apps. (I have "standard" bulbs that have outlasted multiple CF bulbs > in similar applications) In particular, I have a 75W desk lamp bulb which > has been in use since '97 and gets more hours than the ceiling CFs in the > same room, which have been replaced at least 3 times... > > They are not enclosed or abused. I was really PO'd at the short life of my > first set of CF lamps. They seem to be doing better now, but still there > is no great enhanced life span. > > Dave > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill Hawkins" <bill@iaxs.net> > To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" > <time-nuts@febo.com> > Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 2:28:31 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > > Warning: Way OT > > When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many people on > this planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few > people will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind > spot in the brain. Maybe there's no intelligent life in the > Universe because all life evolves with similar selection pressures. > Once technology removes natural predators (or stops world wars with > the atomic bomb), population heads for the sky until the big die-off. > > If other people don't have a problem with having four kids, I have > no problem with using vacuum tubes and Edison bulbs. > > All in my humble opinion, of course. > > Bill Hawkins > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rex > Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 11:50 PM > > Steve Rooke wrote: >> Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)... > Nostalgia? > > Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should > make that, on average, less helpful. > ........ > glowing bulbs > Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say > I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2654 - Release Date: 01/28/10 19:36:00
DM
David Martindale
Fri, Jan 29, 2010 8:22 PM

There are multiple versions, including wall-mount and one that clamps onto
the edge of an object like a bookshelf.  Here is the family:

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/?query=jansjo

They all probably have the same LED head.  If you don't need a long
gooseneck, the wall and clamp versions are the cheapest way to get the head
plus a short gooseneck.  They give a circle of light with a fairly sharp
cutoff at the edge of the circle.  Think of it as something that will fit
into many of the places where you would really like to have a fiber optic
light source, but at 1/5 the cost.

The little wall wart is a regulated constant-current supply (not constant
voltage), which ought to make the light output relatively constant despite
LED temperature changes and wire resistance changes.  However, I find that
the cheap inline switch has contacts that tend to get dirty or oxidize, and
the LED flickers until I flip the switch on and off a couple of times to
clean the contacts.  If you're going to modify it anyway, install a better
switch.

I have two of these.  One clamp-base is mounted on my computer desk, up
high, where it illuminates my keyboard without washing out the monitor.  The
other has the weighted desk base, and it's useful as a reading lamp as well
as illuminating things under the stereomicroscope, and looking inside
cluttered equipment chassis.

  Dave

On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 8:59 AM, Brooke Clarke brooke@pacific.net wrote:

Hi Poul:

Can the base be hung on a wall?
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10128734

Have Fun,

Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com

There are multiple versions, including wall-mount and one that clamps onto the edge of an object like a bookshelf. Here is the family: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/?query=jansjo They all probably have the same LED head. If you don't need a long gooseneck, the wall and clamp versions are the cheapest way to get the head plus a short gooseneck. They give a circle of light with a fairly sharp cutoff at the edge of the circle. Think of it as something that will fit into many of the places where you would really like to have a fiber optic light source, but at 1/5 the cost. The little wall wart is a regulated constant-current supply (not constant voltage), which ought to make the light output relatively constant despite LED temperature changes and wire resistance changes. However, I find that the cheap inline switch has contacts that tend to get dirty or oxidize, and the LED flickers until I flip the switch on and off a couple of times to clean the contacts. If you're going to modify it anyway, install a better switch. I have two of these. One clamp-base is mounted on my computer desk, up high, where it illuminates my keyboard without washing out the monitor. The other has the weighted desk base, and it's useful as a reading lamp as well as illuminating things under the stereomicroscope, and looking inside cluttered equipment chassis. Dave On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 8:59 AM, Brooke Clarke <brooke@pacific.net> wrote: > Hi Poul: > > Can the base be hung on a wall? > http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10128734 > > Have Fun, > > Brooke Clarke > http://www.PRC68.com > >
BC
Brooke Clarke
Fri, Jan 29, 2010 9:07 PM

Hi David:

Thanks for the link.  I like them.  The only problem is that you can not
order on line or by phone from Ikea and the nearest store is over two
hours drive away.

Have Fun,

Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com

David Martindale wrote:

There are multiple versions, including wall-mount and one that clamps onto
the edge of an object like a bookshelf.  Here is the family:

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/?query=jansjo

They all probably have the same LED head.  If you don't need a long
gooseneck, the wall and clamp versions are the cheapest way to get the head
plus a short gooseneck.  They give a circle of light with a fairly sharp
cutoff at the edge of the circle.  Think of it as something that will fit
into many of the places where you would really like to have a fiber optic
light source, but at 1/5 the cost.

The little wall wart is a regulated constant-current supply (not constant
voltage), which ought to make the light output relatively constant despite
LED temperature changes and wire resistance changes.  However, I find that
the cheap inline switch has contacts that tend to get dirty or oxidize, and
the LED flickers until I flip the switch on and off a couple of times to
clean the contacts.  If you're going to modify it anyway, install a better
switch.

I have two of these.  One clamp-base is mounted on my computer desk, up
high, where it illuminates my keyboard without washing out the monitor.  The
other has the weighted desk base, and it's useful as a reading lamp as well
as illuminating things under the stereomicroscope, and looking inside
cluttered equipment chassis.

    Dave

On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 8:59 AM, Brooke Clarkebrooke@pacific.net  wrote:

Hi Poul:

Can the base be hung on a wall?
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10128734

Have Fun,

Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Hi David: Thanks for the link. I like them. The only problem is that you can not order on line or by phone from Ikea and the nearest store is over two hours drive away. Have Fun, Brooke Clarke http://www.PRC68.com David Martindale wrote: > There are multiple versions, including wall-mount and one that clamps onto > the edge of an object like a bookshelf. Here is the family: > > http://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/?query=jansjo > > They all probably have the same LED head. If you don't need a long > gooseneck, the wall and clamp versions are the cheapest way to get the head > plus a short gooseneck. They give a circle of light with a fairly sharp > cutoff at the edge of the circle. Think of it as something that will fit > into many of the places where you would really like to have a fiber optic > light source, but at 1/5 the cost. > > The little wall wart is a regulated constant-current supply (not constant > voltage), which ought to make the light output relatively constant despite > LED temperature changes and wire resistance changes. However, I find that > the cheap inline switch has contacts that tend to get dirty or oxidize, and > the LED flickers until I flip the switch on and off a couple of times to > clean the contacts. If you're going to modify it anyway, install a better > switch. > > I have two of these. One clamp-base is mounted on my computer desk, up > high, where it illuminates my keyboard without washing out the monitor. The > other has the weighted desk base, and it's useful as a reading lamp as well > as illuminating things under the stereomicroscope, and looking inside > cluttered equipment chassis. > > Dave > > On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 8:59 AM, Brooke Clarke<brooke@pacific.net> wrote: > > >> Hi Poul: >> >> Can the base be hung on a wall? >> http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10128734 >> >> Have Fun, >> >> Brooke Clarke >> http://www.PRC68.com >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > > >
MD
Magnus Danielson
Fri, Jan 29, 2010 9:34 PM

Poul-Henning Kamp wrote:

In message 6755CB2A-9566-4F35-818E-38471BE6528F@cq.nu, Bob Camp writes:

And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I hope
the LED equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs seem to last
less in most home apps.

Speaking of LED lamps: I want to point out that at least over here
IKEA has a wonderful little LED lamp for the worktable.

It's a single 3W white led, at the end of a 55cm long (that's 20" for
the imperialists amongst us) "swan-neck".

LED lamps... the one thing I keep being annoyed about is the aspect of
having three peaks of relative narrow spectrums rather than the normal
continuous spectrum mainly being that of the temperature signature.

Anyone out there looking at the frequency spectrum of these low-energy
lamps?

Colour response from few-spike lamps is not really the same than from
continuous spectrums.

I use one for my small CNC-mill:

http://ing.dk/uploads/society/content/232.png

It's called "JAN SJÖ" here, not sure if they use that name in other
geographies.

IKEA has a habit of giving all their products Swedish names for their
products... worldwide. It's part of their trademark so to speak.

Cheers,
Magnus

Poul-Henning Kamp wrote: > In message <6755CB2A-9566-4F35-818E-38471BE6528F@cq.nu>, Bob Camp writes: > >>> And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I hope >>> the LED equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs seem to last >>> less in most home apps. > > Speaking of LED lamps: I want to point out that at least over here > IKEA has a wonderful little LED lamp for the worktable. > > It's a single 3W white led, at the end of a 55cm long (that's 20" for > the imperialists amongst us) "swan-neck". LED lamps... the one thing I keep being annoyed about is the aspect of having three peaks of relative narrow spectrums rather than the normal continuous spectrum mainly being that of the temperature signature. Anyone out there looking at the frequency spectrum of these low-energy lamps? Colour response from few-spike lamps is not really the same than from continuous spectrums. > I use one for my small CNC-mill: > > http://ing.dk/uploads/society/content/232.png > > It's called "JAN SJÖ" here, not sure if they use that name in other > geographies. IKEA has a habit of giving all their products Swedish names for their products... worldwide. It's part of their trademark so to speak. Cheers, Magnus
JF
J. Forster
Fri, Jan 29, 2010 11:59 PM

Attached is a spectrum of a "white" LED Flashlight. My diode spectrometer
does not go further than the limits shown.

Best,
-John

===============

LED lamps... the one thing I keep being annoyed about is the aspect of
having three peaks of relative narrow spectrums rather than the normal
continuous spectrum mainly being that of the temperature signature.

Anyone out there looking at the frequency spectrum of these low-energy
lamps?

Colour response from few-spike lamps is not really the same than from
continuous spectrums.

Attached is a spectrum of a "white" LED Flashlight. My diode spectrometer does not go further than the limits shown. Best, -John =============== > LED lamps... the one thing I keep being annoyed about is the aspect of > having three peaks of relative narrow spectrums rather than the normal > continuous spectrum mainly being that of the temperature signature. > > Anyone out there looking at the frequency spectrum of these low-energy > lamps? > > Colour response from few-spike lamps is not really the same than from > continuous spectrums.
BC
Brooke Clarke
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 12:20 AM

Hi John:

Would you mention the make and model number of the SA and LED?

Have Fun,

Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com

J. Forster wrote:

Attached is a spectrum of a "white" LED Flashlight. My diode spectrometer
does not go further than the limits shown.

Best,
-John

===============

LED lamps... the one thing I keep being annoyed about is the aspect of
having three peaks of relative narrow spectrums rather than the normal
continuous spectrum mainly being that of the temperature signature.

Anyone out there looking at the frequency spectrum of these low-energy
lamps?

Colour response from few-spike lamps is not really the same than from
continuous spectrums.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Hi John: Would you mention the make and model number of the SA and LED? Have Fun, Brooke Clarke http://www.PRC68.com J. Forster wrote: > Attached is a spectrum of a "white" LED Flashlight. My diode spectrometer > does not go further than the limits shown. > > Best, > -John > > =============== > > > >> LED lamps... the one thing I keep being annoyed about is the aspect of >> having three peaks of relative narrow spectrums rather than the normal >> continuous spectrum mainly being that of the temperature signature. >> >> Anyone out there looking at the frequency spectrum of these low-energy >> lamps? >> >> Colour response from few-spike lamps is not really the same than from >> continuous spectrums. >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there.
MD
Magnus Danielson
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 1:12 AM

J. Forster wrote:

Attached is a spectrum of a "white" LED Flashlight. My diode spectrometer
does not go further than the limits shown.

Looks pretty continuous to me. Great. I know there is non-continuous
LEDs out there, but I hope they will fade to grey while continuous takes
the market.

Cheers,
Magnus

J. Forster wrote: > Attached is a spectrum of a "white" LED Flashlight. My diode spectrometer > does not go further than the limits shown. Looks pretty continuous to me. Great. I know there is non-continuous LEDs out there, but I hope they will fade to grey while continuous takes the market. Cheers, Magnus
JF
J. Forster
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 1:15 AM

To my aging eyes, the flashlight looks distinctly blue-white. I don't know
how these particular LEDs are built, but the unit is less than a year old.

-John

===============

J. Forster wrote:

Attached is a spectrum of a "white" LED Flashlight. My diode
spectrometer
does not go further than the limits shown.

Looks pretty continuous to me. Great. I know there is non-continuous
LEDs out there, but I hope they will fade to grey while continuous takes
the market.

Cheers,
Magnus

To my aging eyes, the flashlight looks distinctly blue-white. I don't know how these particular LEDs are built, but the unit is less than a year old. -John =============== > J. Forster wrote: >> Attached is a spectrum of a "white" LED Flashlight. My diode >> spectrometer >> does not go further than the limits shown. > > Looks pretty continuous to me. Great. I know there is non-continuous > LEDs out there, but I hope they will fade to grey while continuous takes > the market. > > Cheers, > Magnus > >
DI
David I. Emery
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 3:58 AM

On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 05:15:51PM -0800, J. Forster wrote:

To my aging eyes, the flashlight looks distinctly blue-white. I don't know
how these particular LEDs are built, but the unit is less than a year old.

My understanding is that a lot of high brightness "white" LEDs 

are internally a UV emitting LED junction illuminating a phosphor.  The
light you see comes mostly from the phosphor.

Lighting type phosphors have been around forever in fluorescent

bulbs... and are fairly continuous spectra mostly...

I don't think there is any way of getting broadband white light

out of a LED junction, though of course hybrids of multiple different
color LEDs can be used (and are in the display business).

--
Dave Emery N1PRE/AE, die@dieconsulting.com  DIE Consulting, Weston, Mass 02493
"An empty zombie mind with a forlorn barely readable weatherbeaten
'For Rent' sign still vainly flapping outside on the weed encrusted pole - in
celebration of what could have been, but wasn't and is not to be now either."

On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 05:15:51PM -0800, J. Forster wrote: > To my aging eyes, the flashlight looks distinctly blue-white. I don't know > how these particular LEDs are built, but the unit is less than a year old. My understanding is that a lot of high brightness "white" LEDs are internally a UV emitting LED junction illuminating a phosphor. The light you see comes mostly from the phosphor. Lighting type phosphors have been around forever in fluorescent bulbs... and are fairly continuous spectra mostly... I don't think there is any way of getting broadband white light out of a LED junction, though of course hybrids of multiple different color LEDs can be used (and are in the display business). -- Dave Emery N1PRE/AE, die@dieconsulting.com DIE Consulting, Weston, Mass 02493 "An empty zombie mind with a forlorn barely readable weatherbeaten 'For Rent' sign still vainly flapping outside on the weed encrusted pole - in celebration of what could have been, but wasn't and is not to be now either."
CH
Chuck Harris
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 7:13 AM

The LED lamps that I have seen use UV LED's with a fluorescent material
in the LED to make it appear white.  I don't know what the spectrum looks
like, but to my eye it appears to be pretty white.

-Chuck Harris

Magnus Danielson wrote:

Poul-Henning Kamp wrote:

In message 6755CB2A-9566-4F35-818E-38471BE6528F@cq.nu, Bob Camp writes:

And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I hope
the LED equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs seem to last
less in most home apps.

Speaking of LED lamps: I want to point out that at least over here
IKEA has a wonderful little LED lamp for the worktable.

It's a single 3W white led, at the end of a 55cm long (that's 20" for
the imperialists amongst us) "swan-neck".

LED lamps... the one thing I keep being annoyed about is the aspect of
having three peaks of relative narrow spectrums rather than the normal
continuous spectrum mainly being that of the temperature signature.

Anyone out there looking at the frequency spectrum of these low-energy
lamps?

Colour response from few-spike lamps is not really the same than from
continuous spectrums.

I use one for my small CNC-mill:

 http://ing.dk/uploads/society/content/232.png

It's called "JAN SJÖ" here, not sure if they use that name in other
geographies.

IKEA has a habit of giving all their products Swedish names for their
products... worldwide. It's part of their trademark so to speak.

Cheers,
Magnus


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The LED lamps that I have seen use UV LED's with a fluorescent material in the LED to make it appear white. I don't know what the spectrum looks like, but to my eye it appears to be pretty white. -Chuck Harris Magnus Danielson wrote: > Poul-Henning Kamp wrote: >> In message <6755CB2A-9566-4F35-818E-38471BE6528F@cq.nu>, Bob Camp writes: >> >>>> And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I hope >>>> the LED equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs seem to last >>>> less in most home apps. >> >> Speaking of LED lamps: I want to point out that at least over here >> IKEA has a wonderful little LED lamp for the worktable. >> >> It's a single 3W white led, at the end of a 55cm long (that's 20" for >> the imperialists amongst us) "swan-neck". > > LED lamps... the one thing I keep being annoyed about is the aspect of > having three peaks of relative narrow spectrums rather than the normal > continuous spectrum mainly being that of the temperature signature. > > Anyone out there looking at the frequency spectrum of these low-energy > lamps? > > Colour response from few-spike lamps is not really the same than from > continuous spectrums. > >> I use one for my small CNC-mill: >> >> http://ing.dk/uploads/society/content/232.png >> >> It's called "JAN SJÖ" here, not sure if they use that name in other >> geographies. > > IKEA has a habit of giving all their products Swedish names for their > products... worldwide. It's part of their trademark so to speak. > > Cheers, > Magnus > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
DL
Don Latham
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 7:26 AM

also matches the sun within reason...
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "Magnus Danielson" magnus@rubidium.dyndns.org
To: jfor@quik.com; "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"
time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 6:12 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

J. Forster wrote:

Attached is a spectrum of a "white" LED Flashlight. My diode spectrometer
does not go further than the limits shown.

Looks pretty continuous to me. Great. I know there is non-continuous LEDs
out there, but I hope they will fade to grey while continuous takes the
market.

Cheers,
Magnus


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
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https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

also matches the sun within reason... Don ----- Original Message ----- From: "Magnus Danielson" <magnus@rubidium.dyndns.org> To: <jfor@quik.com>; "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 6:12 PM Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > J. Forster wrote: >> Attached is a spectrum of a "white" LED Flashlight. My diode spectrometer >> does not go further than the limits shown. > > Looks pretty continuous to me. Great. I know there is non-continuous LEDs > out there, but I hope they will fade to grey while continuous takes the > market. > > Cheers, > Magnus > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
DS
d.seiter@comcast.net
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 7:32 AM

I took apart the last dead one just for that purpose. I initially eyed the 105deg Al cap, but it was dead, along with one of the xstrs (hole in package). The film caps, diodes and fuse are still good too. As is the tube- don't know what I'll do with that.

-Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Max Robinson" max@maxsmusicplace.com
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 12:39:25 PM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

I've heard you can salvage some good rectifiers and maybe a transistor or
two from dead CF bulbs.

Regards.

Max. K 4 O D S.

Email: max@maxsmusicplace.com

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
funwithtransistors-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
funwithtubes-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

----- Original Message -----
From: d.seiter@comcast.net
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"
time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 1:32 AM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I hope the LED
equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs seem to last less in most
home apps. (I have "standard" bulbs that have outlasted multiple CF bulbs
in similar applications) In particular, I have a 75W desk lamp bulb which
has been in use since '97 and gets more hours than the ceiling CFs in the
same room, which have been replaced at least 3 times...

They are not enclosed or abused. I was really PO'd at the short life of my
first set of CF lamps. They seem to be doing better now, but still there
is no great enhanced life span.

Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Hawkins" bill@iaxs.net
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"
time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 2:28:31 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Warning: Way OT

When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many people on
this planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few
people will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind
spot in the brain. Maybe there's no intelligent life in the
Universe because all life evolves with similar selection pressures.
Once technology removes natural predators (or stops world wars with
the atomic bomb), population heads for the sky until the big die-off.

If other people don't have a problem with having four kids, I have
no problem with using vacuum tubes and Edison bulbs.

All in my humble opinion, of course.

Bill Hawkins

-----Original Message-----
From: Rex
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 11:50 PM

Steve Rooke wrote:

Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)...

Nostalgia?

Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should
make that, on average, less helpful.
........
glowing bulbs
Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say
I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things.


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No virus found in this incoming message.
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Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2654 - Release Date: 01/28/10
19:36:00


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I took apart the last dead one just for that purpose. I initially eyed the 105deg Al cap, but it was dead, along with one of the xstrs (hole in package). The film caps, diodes and fuse are still good too. As is the tube- don't know what I'll do with that. -Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Max Robinson" <max@maxsmusicplace.com> To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 12:39:25 PM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material I've heard you can salvage some good rectifiers and maybe a transistor or two from dead CF bulbs. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: max@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscribe@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscribe@yahoogroups.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <d.seiter@comcast.net> To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 1:32 AM Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I hope the LED > equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs seem to last less in most > home apps. (I have "standard" bulbs that have outlasted multiple CF bulbs > in similar applications) In particular, I have a 75W desk lamp bulb which > has been in use since '97 and gets more hours than the ceiling CFs in the > same room, which have been replaced at least 3 times... > > They are not enclosed or abused. I was really PO'd at the short life of my > first set of CF lamps. They seem to be doing better now, but still there > is no great enhanced life span. > > Dave > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill Hawkins" <bill@iaxs.net> > To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" > <time-nuts@febo.com> > Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 2:28:31 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > > Warning: Way OT > > When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many people on > this planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few > people will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind > spot in the brain. Maybe there's no intelligent life in the > Universe because all life evolves with similar selection pressures. > Once technology removes natural predators (or stops world wars with > the atomic bomb), population heads for the sky until the big die-off. > > If other people don't have a problem with having four kids, I have > no problem with using vacuum tubes and Edison bulbs. > > All in my humble opinion, of course. > > Bill Hawkins > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rex > Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 11:50 PM > > Steve Rooke wrote: >> Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)... > Nostalgia? > > Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global warming should > make that, on average, less helpful. > ........ > glowing bulbs > Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf power, I'll say > I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2654 - Release Date: 01/28/10 19:36:00 _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
RA
Robert Atkinson
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 9:17 AM

Hi,I'm late to the thread (as usual), but have looked at these LED's in the past. It was for a biotech imaging application. There are two types, a red/green/blue cluster or a blue / near UV LED with a white phosphor. These phosphors seem to have a fairly continuous spectrum, at least compared to fluorescent lamps and HID lamps. What surprised me was the speed. We had a strobe application for which a xenon strobe was proposed. I tried LED's (our optics "expert" said even normal LED's would not be fast enough). I knew normal LED's are fast enough but was unsure about the phosphor types. To my surprise they where faster than the xenon tube! They were faster than my detector. This has has an impact on the mill illumination in that you can get strobe effects that could cause you to think the spindle was stationary when it was not. This is more of a problem in a noisy environment than a home shop with only one machine running.  
Robert G8RPI.

--- On Sat, 30/1/10, J. Forster jfor@quik.com wrote:

From: J. Forster jfor@quik.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material
To: "Magnus Danielson" magnus@rubidium.dyndns.org
Cc: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Date: Saturday, 30 January, 2010, 1:15

To my aging eyes, the flashlight looks distinctly blue-white. I don't know
how these particular LEDs are built, but the unit is less than a year old.

-John

===============

J. Forster wrote:

Attached is a spectrum of a "white" LED Flashlight. My diode
spectrometer
does not go further than the limits shown.

Looks pretty continuous to me. Great. I know there is non-continuous
LEDs out there, but I hope they will fade to grey while continuous takes
the market.

Cheers,
Magnus


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Hi,I'm late to the thread (as usual), but have looked at these LED's in the past. It was for a biotech imaging application. There are two types, a red/green/blue cluster or a blue / near UV LED with a white phosphor. These phosphors seem to have a fairly continuous spectrum, at least compared to fluorescent lamps and HID lamps. What surprised me was the speed. We had a strobe application for which a xenon strobe was proposed. I tried LED's (our optics "expert" said even normal LED's would not be fast enough). I knew normal LED's are fast enough but was unsure about the phosphor types. To my surprise they where faster than the xenon tube! They were faster than my detector. This has has an impact on the mill illumination in that you can get strobe effects that could cause you to think the spindle was stationary when it was not. This is more of a problem in a noisy environment than a home shop with only one machine running.   Robert G8RPI. --- On Sat, 30/1/10, J. Forster <jfor@quik.com> wrote: From: J. Forster <jfor@quik.com> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material To: "Magnus Danielson" <magnus@rubidium.dyndns.org> Cc: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> Date: Saturday, 30 January, 2010, 1:15 To my aging eyes, the flashlight looks distinctly blue-white. I don't know how these particular LEDs are built, but the unit is less than a year old. -John =============== > J. Forster wrote: >> Attached is a spectrum of a "white" LED Flashlight. My diode >> spectrometer >> does not go further than the limits shown. > > Looks pretty continuous to me. Great. I know there is non-continuous > LEDs out there, but I hope they will fade to grey while continuous takes > the market. > > Cheers, > Magnus > > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
BG
Bruce Griffiths
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 12:01 PM

The speed isn't  terribly surprising since the "phosphor" used  is
actually a scintillator.
Unlike phosphors scintillators don't have long decay times so there is
no afterglow like that from a phosphor.

The IKEA LED lamp output may not be significantly modulated if the wall
wart constant current supply may have an output thats a little smoother
than just rectified AC.

Bruce

Robert Atkinson wrote:

Hi,I'm late to the thread (as usual), but have looked at these LED's in the past. It was for a biotech imaging application. There are two types, a red/green/blue cluster or a blue / near UV LED with a white phosphor. These phosphors seem to have a fairly continuous spectrum, at least compared to fluorescent lamps and HID lamps. What surprised me was the speed. We had a strobe application for which a xenon strobe was proposed. I tried LED's (our optics "expert" said even normal LED's would not be fast enough). I knew normal LED's are fast enough but was unsure about the phosphor types. To my surprise they where faster than the xenon tube! They were faster than my detector. This has has an impact on the mill illumination in that you can get strobe effects that could cause you to think the spindle was stationary when it was not. This is more of a problem in a noisy environment than a home shop with only one machine running.
Robert G8RPI.

--- On Sat, 30/1/10, J. Forsterjfor@quik.com  wrote:

From: J. Forsterjfor@quik.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material
To: "Magnus Danielson"magnus@rubidium.dyndns.org
Cc: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"time-nuts@febo.com
Date: Saturday, 30 January, 2010, 1:15

To my aging eyes, the flashlight looks distinctly blue-white. I don't know
how these particular LEDs are built, but the unit is less than a year old.

-John

===============

J. Forster wrote:

Attached is a spectrum of a "white" LED Flashlight. My diode
spectrometer
does not go further than the limits shown.

Looks pretty continuous to me. Great. I know there is non-continuous
LEDs out there, but I hope they will fade to grey while continuous takes
the market.

Cheers,
Magnus


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

The speed isn't terribly surprising since the "phosphor" used is actually a scintillator. Unlike phosphors scintillators don't have long decay times so there is no afterglow like that from a phosphor. The IKEA LED lamp output may not be significantly modulated if the wall wart constant current supply may have an output thats a little smoother than just rectified AC. Bruce Robert Atkinson wrote: > Hi,I'm late to the thread (as usual), but have looked at these LED's in the past. It was for a biotech imaging application. There are two types, a red/green/blue cluster or a blue / near UV LED with a white phosphor. These phosphors seem to have a fairly continuous spectrum, at least compared to fluorescent lamps and HID lamps. What surprised me was the speed. We had a strobe application for which a xenon strobe was proposed. I tried LED's (our optics "expert" said even normal LED's would not be fast enough). I knew normal LED's are fast enough but was unsure about the phosphor types. To my surprise they where faster than the xenon tube! They were faster than my detector. This has has an impact on the mill illumination in that you can get strobe effects that could cause you to think the spindle was stationary when it was not. This is more of a problem in a noisy environment than a home shop with only one machine running. > Robert G8RPI. > > --- On Sat, 30/1/10, J. Forster<jfor@quik.com> wrote: > > From: J. Forster<jfor@quik.com> > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > To: "Magnus Danielson"<magnus@rubidium.dyndns.org> > Cc: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"<time-nuts@febo.com> > Date: Saturday, 30 January, 2010, 1:15 > > To my aging eyes, the flashlight looks distinctly blue-white. I don't know > how these particular LEDs are built, but the unit is less than a year old. > > -John > > =============== > > > >> J. Forster wrote: >> >>> Attached is a spectrum of a "white" LED Flashlight. My diode >>> spectrometer >>> does not go further than the limits shown. >>> >> Looks pretty continuous to me. Great. I know there is non-continuous >> LEDs out there, but I hope they will fade to grey while continuous takes >> the market. >> >> Cheers, >> Magnus >> >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > >
DJ
Didier Juges
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 1:15 PM

Yes, it is frustrating, they have to be the last dinosaurs of consumer
distribution.

For me, the nearest store is 6 hours away, if I don't get stopped for a
speeding ticket on the way...
So I can't afford to be interested in what they may have for sale.

Didier

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com
[mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Brooke Clarke
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 3:07 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp

Hi David:

Thanks for the link.  I like them.  The only problem is that
you can not order on line or by phone from Ikea and the
nearest store is over two hours drive away.

Yes, it is frustrating, they have to be the last dinosaurs of consumer distribution. For me, the nearest store is 6 hours away, if I don't get stopped for a speeding ticket on the way... So I can't afford to be interested in what they may have for sale. Didier > -----Original Message----- > From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com > [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Brooke Clarke > Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 3:07 PM > To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp > > Hi David: > > Thanks for the link. I like them. The only problem is that > you can not order on line or by phone from Ikea and the > nearest store is over two hours drive away. >
MD
Magnus Danielson
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 1:25 PM

Don Latham wrote:

also matches the sun within reason...

Indeed.

Cheers,
Magnus

Don Latham wrote: > also matches the sun within reason... Indeed. Cheers, Magnus
MD
Magnus Danielson
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 1:26 PM

I took apart the last dead one just for that purpose. I initially eyed the 105deg Al cap, but it was dead, along with one of the xstrs (hole in package). The film caps, diodes and fuse are still good too. As is the tube- don't know what I'll do with that.

Sounds to me that the electronics died... rather than the bulb.

Cheers,
Magnus

d.seiter@comcast.net wrote: > I took apart the last dead one just for that purpose. I initially eyed the 105deg Al cap, but it was dead, along with one of the xstrs (hole in package). The film caps, diodes and fuse are still good too. As is the tube- don't know what I'll do with that. Sounds to me that the electronics died... rather than the bulb. Cheers, Magnus
DJ
Didier Juges
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 1:31 PM

Also they are very sensitive to heat, so do not use them in an enclosed
fixture.

I have been burned (figuratively) with these two gotchas, there may be more.
The one that lasts the longest in my house is the outside light at my back
door. It is turned on once a day around 6-7 PM and off in the morning, so
about 12 hours a day every day, and it lasts for years at that rate. Those
in the bathroom that get to be turned on and off several times a day for a
relatively short time don't do nearly as well.

Didier

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com
[mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Ed Palmer
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 8:29 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

The most important thing to remember about CFLs is don't
use them anywhere that they will be turned on and off a lot
(e.g. bathrooms).
Use them where they'll be turned on and left on.  Short on /
off cycles can reduce their lifetime to 15% of normal.
Here's a report on the
subject:

http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/nlpip/publicationDetails.asp?id=114&type=1

Ed

d.seiter@comcast.net wrote:

And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I

hope the LED equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs
seem to last less in most home apps. (I have "standard" bulbs
that have outlasted multiple CF bulbs in similar
applications) In particular, I have a 75W desk lamp bulb
which has been in use since '97 and gets more hours than the
ceiling CFs in the same room, which have been replaced at
least 3 times...

They are not enclosed or abused. I was really PO'd at the

short life of my first set of CF lamps. They seem to be doing
better now, but still there is no great enhanced life span.

Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Hawkins" bill@iaxs.net
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"
time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 2:28:31 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada
Mountain
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Warning: Way OT

When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many

people on this

planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few people
will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind

spot in the

brain. Maybe there's no intelligent life in the Universe

because all

life evolves with similar selection pressures.
Once technology removes natural predators (or stops world wars with
the atomic bomb), population heads for the sky until the

big die-off.

If other people don't have a problem with having four kids,

I have no

problem with using vacuum tubes and Edison bulbs.

All in my humble opinion, of course.

Bill Hawkins

-----Original Message-----
From: Rex
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 11:50 PM

Steve Rooke wrote:

Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)...

Nostalgia?

Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global

warming should

make that, on average, less helpful.
........
glowing bulbs
Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf

power, I'll

say I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things.


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Also they are very sensitive to heat, so do not use them in an enclosed fixture. I have been burned (figuratively) with these two gotchas, there may be more. The one that lasts the longest in my house is the outside light at my back door. It is turned on once a day around 6-7 PM and off in the morning, so about 12 hours a day every day, and it lasts for years at that rate. Those in the bathroom that get to be turned on and off several times a day for a relatively short time don't do nearly as well. Didier > -----Original Message----- > From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com > [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Ed Palmer > Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 8:29 AM > To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > > The most important thing to remember about CFLs is *don't* > use them anywhere that they will be turned on and off a lot > (e.g. bathrooms). > Use them where they'll be turned on and left on. Short on / > off cycles can reduce their lifetime to 15% of normal. > Here's a report on the > subject: > > http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/nlpip/publicationDetails.asp?id=114&type=1 > > Ed > > d.seiter@comcast.net wrote: > > And now "they" are trying to do away with edison bulbs. I > hope the LED equivalents are better, because the CF bulbs > seem to last less in most home apps. (I have "standard" bulbs > that have outlasted multiple CF bulbs in similar > applications) In particular, I have a 75W desk lamp bulb > which has been in use since '97 and gets more hours than the > ceiling CFs in the same room, which have been replaced at > least 3 times... > > > > They are not enclosed or abused. I was really PO'd at the > short life of my first set of CF lamps. They seem to be doing > better now, but still there is no great enhanced life span. > > > > Dave > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Bill Hawkins" <bill@iaxs.net> > > To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" > > <time-nuts@febo.com> > > Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 2:28:31 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada > > Mountain > > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > > > > Warning: Way OT > > > > When the vacuum tube was born, there were half as many > people on this > > planet, and global climate change wasn't a problem. Very few people > > will talk about populution. It's as if there was a blind > spot in the > > brain. Maybe there's no intelligent life in the Universe > because all > > life evolves with similar selection pressures. > > Once technology removes natural predators (or stops world wars with > > the atomic bomb), population heads for the sky until the > big die-off. > > > > If other people don't have a problem with having four kids, > I have no > > problem with using vacuum tubes and Edison bulbs. > > > > All in my humble opinion, of course. > > > > Bill Hawkins > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Rex > > Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 11:50 PM > > > > Steve Rooke wrote: > > > >> Wasn't life so much easier with valves (tubes)... > >> > > Nostalgia? > > > > Valves (tubes) warmer in close proximity, yes. Global > warming should > > make that, on average, less helpful. > > ........ > > glowing bulbs > > Other than that memory, and certain trade-offs at big Rf > power, I'll > > say I no longer encourage the glowing bulbs for most things. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to > > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > > and follow the instructions there. > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to > > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > > and follow the instructions there. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, > go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
BC
Bob Camp
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 1:38 PM

Hi

At the cost target on those bulb's it's always a race to see who dies first.

The same can be said of conventional fluorescent fixtures. I have some big ones in the shop downstairs. The no name electronic ballasts that came with them all died in the first two years. I replaced them with name brand parts and they have run fine ever since (at least 3 years so far). All the fixtures are on their first set of bulbs.

Bob

On Jan 30, 2010, at 8:26 AM, Magnus Danielson wrote:

I took apart the last dead one just for that purpose. I initially eyed the 105deg Al cap, but it was dead, along with one of the xstrs (hole in package). The film caps, diodes and fuse are still good too. As is the tube- don't know what I'll do with that.

Sounds to me that the electronics died... rather than the bulb.

Cheers,
Magnus


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and follow the instructions there.

Hi At the cost target on those bulb's it's always a race to see who dies first. The same can be said of conventional fluorescent fixtures. I have some big ones in the shop downstairs. The no name electronic ballasts that came with them all died in the first two years. I replaced them with name brand parts and they have run fine ever since (at least 3 years so far). All the fixtures are on their first set of bulbs. Bob On Jan 30, 2010, at 8:26 AM, Magnus Danielson wrote: > d.seiter@comcast.net wrote: >> I took apart the last dead one just for that purpose. I initially eyed the 105deg Al cap, but it was dead, along with one of the xstrs (hole in package). The film caps, diodes and fuse are still good too. As is the tube- don't know what I'll do with that. > > Sounds to me that the electronics died... rather than the bulb. > > Cheers, > Magnus > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
CH
Chuck Harris
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 2:27 PM

I bought some of the LED replacements for Edison bulb incandescents, and
they have an afterglow that lasts for several minutes.  It is very much
dimmer than when they are turned on, but is there none the less.

-Chuck

Bruce Griffiths wrote:

The speed isn't  terribly surprising since the "phosphor" used  is
actually a scintillator.
Unlike phosphors scintillators don't have long decay times so there is
no afterglow like that from a phosphor.

The IKEA LED lamp output may not be significantly modulated if the wall
wart constant current supply may have an output thats a little smoother
than just rectified AC.

Bruce

I bought some of the LED replacements for Edison bulb incandescents, and they have an afterglow that lasts for several minutes. It is very much dimmer than when they are turned on, but is there none the less. -Chuck Bruce Griffiths wrote: > The speed isn't terribly surprising since the "phosphor" used is > actually a scintillator. > Unlike phosphors scintillators don't have long decay times so there is > no afterglow like that from a phosphor. > > The IKEA LED lamp output may not be significantly modulated if the wall > wart constant current supply may have an output thats a little smoother > than just rectified AC. > > Bruce
CH
Chuck Harris
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 2:42 PM

I have dissected many dead CFL's, and the key component failure
is the 10uf 350V electrolytic capacitor.  Most of these bulbs caution
against using them in a base up configuration.... which of course is
how most of my CFL's are operated.

I have several rooms that are lit exclusively with CFL's, and I find
that for best life, I have to leave them on all the time.  That is what
EPA has found too!  CFL's may take less power for a given illumination,
but the owners leave them on far longer than incandescent, and the net
result is greater power consumption overall.

Add that to the mandatory drop of mercury in each, and I really can't
see how they can sell them at all.

I got two for "free" from my power company (They hid the charge on my
bill, until the courts made them reverse it...) and included with the
CFL's was an elaborate procedure for cleaning up a broken CFL.  It involved
opening all of the windows, and leaving the room for a couple of hours,
and then, with a gloved hand putting the pieces on newspaper, and folding
the newspaper up and putting it in a 1 gallon zip lock baggie.  To clean up
the broken bits, you are supposed to vacuum the area with a fresh vacuum
cleaner bag, and then put the vacuum cleaner bag in a ziplock baggie, and
take the remains off to the hazardous waste disposal facility.

-Chuck Harris

Magnus Danielson wrote:

I took apart the last dead one just for that purpose. I initially eyed
the 105deg Al cap, but it was dead, along with one of the xstrs (hole
in package). The film caps, diodes and fuse are still good too. As is
the tube- don't know what I'll do with that.

Sounds to me that the electronics died... rather than the bulb.

Cheers,
Magnus


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and follow the instructions there.

I have dissected many dead CFL's, and the key component failure is the 10uf 350V electrolytic capacitor. Most of these bulbs caution against using them in a base up configuration.... which of course is how most of my CFL's are operated. I have several rooms that are lit exclusively with CFL's, and I find that for best life, I have to leave them on all the time. That is what EPA has found too! CFL's may take less power for a given illumination, but the owners leave them on far longer than incandescent, and the net result is greater power consumption overall. Add that to the mandatory drop of mercury in each, and I really can't see how they can sell them at all. I got two for "free" from my power company (They hid the charge on my bill, until the courts made them reverse it...) and included with the CFL's was an elaborate procedure for cleaning up a broken CFL. It involved opening all of the windows, and leaving the room for a couple of hours, and then, with a gloved hand putting the pieces on newspaper, and folding the newspaper up and putting it in a 1 gallon zip lock baggie. To clean up the broken bits, you are supposed to vacuum the area with a fresh vacuum cleaner bag, and then put the vacuum cleaner bag in a ziplock baggie, and take the remains off to the hazardous waste disposal facility. -Chuck Harris Magnus Danielson wrote: > d.seiter@comcast.net wrote: >> I took apart the last dead one just for that purpose. I initially eyed >> the 105deg Al cap, but it was dead, along with one of the xstrs (hole >> in package). The film caps, diodes and fuse are still good too. As is >> the tube- don't know what I'll do with that. > > Sounds to me that the electronics died... rather than the bulb. > > Cheers, > Magnus > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
PS
paul swed
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 3:49 PM

IKEA and $39 per lamp. Sounds like some pretty good margin in the sale.
I guess these LED things will be main stream and save the world when we see
them at walmart for $6.

On my bench I converted to 60 watt halogen lamps compared to the 100 watt
lamp.
Equivalent color spectrum to the traditional lamp also. For as many hours as
that light is on. I suspect I am saving some money in the long run.

Curious are these lights truly white or do they tend towards a traditional
lamp spectrum.
Regards

On Sat, Jan 30, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Didier Juges didier@cox.net wrote:

Yes, it is frustrating, they have to be the last dinosaurs of consumer
distribution.

For me, the nearest store is 6 hours away, if I don't get stopped for a
speeding ticket on the way...
So I can't afford to be interested in what they may have for sale.

Didier

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com
[mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Brooke Clarke
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 3:07 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp

Hi David:

Thanks for the link.  I like them.  The only problem is that
you can not order on line or by phone from Ikea and the
nearest store is over two hours drive away.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
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and follow the instructions there.

IKEA and $39 per lamp. Sounds like some pretty good margin in the sale. I guess these LED things will be main stream and save the world when we see them at walmart for $6. On my bench I converted to 60 watt halogen lamps compared to the 100 watt lamp. Equivalent color spectrum to the traditional lamp also. For as many hours as that light is on. I suspect I am saving some money in the long run. Curious are these lights truly white or do they tend towards a traditional lamp spectrum. Regards On Sat, Jan 30, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Didier Juges <didier@cox.net> wrote: > Yes, it is frustrating, they have to be the last dinosaurs of consumer > distribution. > > For me, the nearest store is 6 hours away, if I don't get stopped for a > speeding ticket on the way... > So I can't afford to be interested in what they may have for sale. > > Didier > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com > > [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Brooke Clarke > > Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 3:07 PM > > To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement > > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp > > > > Hi David: > > > > Thanks for the link. I like them. The only problem is that > > you can not order on line or by phone from Ikea and the > > nearest store is over two hours drive away. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
B
bg@lysator.liu.se
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 4:01 PM

Hi

I have a store some 5km away... but anyway, it seems its possible to
webshop at least in Ikealand.

http://www.ikea.com/ms/sv_SE/customer_service/how_to_e-shop/how_to_e-shop.html

--

Björn

Yes, it is frustrating, they have to be the last dinosaurs of consumer
distribution.

For me, the nearest store is 6 hours away, if I don't get stopped for a
speeding ticket on the way...
So I can't afford to be interested in what they may have for sale.

Didier

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com
[mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Brooke Clarke
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 3:07 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp

Hi David:

Thanks for the link.  I like them.  The only problem is that
you can not order on line or by phone from Ikea and the
nearest store is over two hours drive away.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
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and follow the instructions there.

Hi I have a store some 5km away... but anyway, it seems its possible to webshop at least in Ikealand. http://www.ikea.com/ms/sv_SE/customer_service/how_to_e-shop/how_to_e-shop.html -- Björn > Yes, it is frustrating, they have to be the last dinosaurs of consumer > distribution. > > For me, the nearest store is 6 hours away, if I don't get stopped for a > speeding ticket on the way... > So I can't afford to be interested in what they may have for sale. > > Didier > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com >> [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Brooke Clarke >> Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 3:07 PM >> To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement >> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp >> >> Hi David: >> >> Thanks for the link. I like them. The only problem is that >> you can not order on line or by phone from Ikea and the >> nearest store is over two hours drive away. >> > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
DC
David C. Partridge
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 4:08 PM

For those who don't speak swedish try:

<http://www.ikea.com/ms/en_GB/customer_service/how_to_e-shop/how_to_e-shop.h
tml>

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On
Behalf Of bg@lysator.liu.se
Sent: 30 January 2010 16:01
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp

Hi

I have a store some 5km away... but anyway, it seems its possible to webshop
at least in Ikealand.

http://www.ikea.com/ms/sv_SE/customer_service/how_to_e-shop/how_to_e-shop.ht
ml

--

Björn

Yes, it is frustrating, they have to be the last dinosaurs of consumer
distribution.

For me, the nearest store is 6 hours away, if I don't get stopped for
a speeding ticket on the way...
So I can't afford to be interested in what they may have for sale.

Didier

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com
[mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Brooke Clarke
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 3:07 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp

Hi David:

Thanks for the link.  I like them.  The only problem is that you can
not order on line or by phone from Ikea and the nearest store is over
two hours drive away.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
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and follow the instructions there.

For those who don't speak swedish try: <http://www.ikea.com/ms/en_GB/customer_service/how_to_e-shop/how_to_e-shop.h tml> Dave -----Original Message----- From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of bg@lysator.liu.se Sent: 30 January 2010 16:01 To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp Hi I have a store some 5km away... but anyway, it seems its possible to webshop at least in Ikealand. http://www.ikea.com/ms/sv_SE/customer_service/how_to_e-shop/how_to_e-shop.ht ml -- Björn > Yes, it is frustrating, they have to be the last dinosaurs of consumer > distribution. > > For me, the nearest store is 6 hours away, if I don't get stopped for > a speeding ticket on the way... > So I can't afford to be interested in what they may have for sale. > > Didier > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com >> [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Brooke Clarke >> Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 3:07 PM >> To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement >> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp >> >> Hi David: >> >> Thanks for the link. I like them. The only problem is that you can >> not order on line or by phone from Ikea and the nearest store is over >> two hours drive away. >> > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
MD
Magnus Danielson
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 4:59 PM

Robert Atkinson wrote:

Hi,I'm late to the thread (as usual), but have looked at these LED's in the past. It was for a biotech imaging application. There are two types, a red/green/blue cluster or a blue / near UV LED with a white phosphor. These phosphors seem to have a fairly continuous spectrum, at least compared to fluorescent lamps and HID lamps. What surprised me was the speed. We had a strobe application for which a xenon strobe was proposed. I tried LED's (our optics "expert" said even normal LED's would not be fast enough). I knew normal LED's are fast enough but was unsure about the phosphor types. To my surprise they where faster than the xenon tube! They were faster than my detector. This has has an impact on the mill illumination in that you can get strobe effects that could cause you to think the spindle was stationary when it was not. This is more of a problem in a noisy environment than a home shop with only one machine running.

Traditional LEDs might not be optimized for speed, bug being GaAsP based
they are probably not too shabby. InP and other fun (and fast) materials
is used. Digging up on LEDs led me over YAG to bubble memories.

Interesting side-effects of this discussion is that one learns more in
fields one does not ponder too much over normally.

Cheers,
Magnus

Robert Atkinson wrote: > Hi,I'm late to the thread (as usual), but have looked at these LED's in the past. It was for a biotech imaging application. There are two types, a red/green/blue cluster or a blue / near UV LED with a white phosphor. These phosphors seem to have a fairly continuous spectrum, at least compared to fluorescent lamps and HID lamps. What surprised me was the speed. We had a strobe application for which a xenon strobe was proposed. I tried LED's (our optics "expert" said even normal LED's would not be fast enough). I knew normal LED's are fast enough but was unsure about the phosphor types. To my surprise they where faster than the xenon tube! They were faster than my detector. This has has an impact on the mill illumination in that you can get strobe effects that could cause you to think the spindle was stationary when it was not. This is more of a problem in a noisy environment than a home shop with only one machine running. Traditional LEDs might not be optimized for speed, bug being GaAsP based they are probably not too shabby. InP and other fun (and fast) materials is used. Digging up on LEDs led me over YAG to bubble memories. Interesting side-effects of this discussion is that one learns more in fields one does not ponder too much over normally. Cheers, Magnus
DD
Dr. David Kirkby
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 5:39 PM

Chuck Harris wrote:

I bought some of the LED replacements for Edison bulb incandescents, and
they have an afterglow that lasts for several minutes.  It is very much
dimmer than when they are turned on, but is there none the less.

-Chuck

I got one of these so called 2D fluorescent tubes in a packet and bought it home
on the train late in the evening. The trains are electric with cables overhead.
What was strange was that the lamp was glowing dimly in the packet - I can only
assume the E field from the overhead cables for the train was the source of power.

Dave

Chuck Harris wrote: > I bought some of the LED replacements for Edison bulb incandescents, and > they have an afterglow that lasts for several minutes. It is very much > dimmer than when they are turned on, but is there none the less. > > -Chuck I got one of these so called 2D fluorescent tubes in a packet and bought it home on the train late in the evening. The trains are electric with cables overhead. What was strange was that the lamp was glowing dimly in the packet - I can only assume the E field from the overhead cables for the train was the source of power. Dave
DD
Dr. David Kirkby
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 5:46 PM

Dr. David Kirkby wrote:

Chuck Harris wrote:

I bought some of the LED replacements for Edison bulb incandescents, and
they have an afterglow that lasts for several minutes.  It is very much
dimmer than when they are turned on, but is there none the less.

-Chuck

I got one of these so called 2D fluorescent tubes in a packet and bought
it home on the train late in the evening. The trains are electric with
cables overhead. What was strange was that the lamp was glowing dimly in
the packet - I can only assume the E field from the overhead cables for
the train was the source of power.

Dave

I should have added, it carried on glowing for some time after I got home too.
At that point, I was well away from the train lines, though we do have 11 kV
overhead cables around 30m from the house. It eventually stopped glowing so I
assume it was the presence of the overhead train lines which caused this.

Dr. David Kirkby wrote: > Chuck Harris wrote: >> I bought some of the LED replacements for Edison bulb incandescents, and >> they have an afterglow that lasts for several minutes. It is very much >> dimmer than when they are turned on, but is there none the less. >> >> -Chuck > > I got one of these so called 2D fluorescent tubes in a packet and bought > it home on the train late in the evening. The trains are electric with > cables overhead. What was strange was that the lamp was glowing dimly in > the packet - I can only assume the E field from the overhead cables for > the train was the source of power. > > Dave I should have added, it carried on glowing for some time after I got home too. At that point, I was well away from the train lines, though we do have 11 kV overhead cables around 30m from the house. It eventually stopped glowing so I assume it was the presence of the overhead train lines which caused this.
BC
Brooke Clarke
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 5:55 PM

Hi Paul:

LEDs come in many flavors of white.  The ones called warm white can be
very comfortable but they are not as bright as the plain white or cool
white LEDs.

Also high power LEDs can burn your eye.  Not because they emit UV but
rather just because they are bright, like the Sun.
http://www.prc68.com/I/LED.shtml#Atlas  This is a 7 Watt LED that burned
my eyes.

Wien's displacement law relates the wavelength emitted from a hot body
to it's surface temperature.  For numbers for the Sun or a human see:
http://www.prc68.com/I/Probeye.shtml#WaT
Planck's law took another five years to relate frequency and surface temp.

Have Fun,

Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com

paul swed wrote:

IKEA and $39 per lamp. Sounds like some pretty good margin in the sale.
I guess these LED things will be main stream and save the world when we see
them at walmart for $6.

On my bench I converted to 60 watt halogen lamps compared to the 100 watt
lamp.
Equivalent color spectrum to the traditional lamp also. For as many hours as
that light is on. I suspect I am saving some money in the long run.

Curious are these lights truly white or do they tend towards a traditional
lamp spectrum.
Regards

On Sat, Jan 30, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Didier Jugesdidier@cox.net  wrote:

Yes, it is frustrating, they have to be the last dinosaurs of consumer
distribution.

For me, the nearest store is 6 hours away, if I don't get stopped for a
speeding ticket on the way...
So I can't afford to be interested in what they may have for sale.

Didier

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com
[mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Brooke Clarke
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 3:07 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp

Hi David:

Thanks for the link.  I like them.  The only problem is that
you can not order on line or by phone from Ikea and the
nearest store is over two hours drive away.


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Hi Paul: LEDs come in many flavors of white. The ones called warm white can be very comfortable but they are not as bright as the plain white or cool white LEDs. Also high power LEDs can burn your eye. Not because they emit UV but rather just because they are bright, like the Sun. http://www.prc68.com/I/LED.shtml#Atlas This is a 7 Watt LED that burned my eyes. Wien's displacement law relates the wavelength emitted from a hot body to it's surface temperature. For numbers for the Sun or a human see: http://www.prc68.com/I/Probeye.shtml#WaT Planck's law took another five years to relate frequency and surface temp. Have Fun, Brooke Clarke http://www.PRC68.com paul swed wrote: > IKEA and $39 per lamp. Sounds like some pretty good margin in the sale. > I guess these LED things will be main stream and save the world when we see > them at walmart for $6. > > On my bench I converted to 60 watt halogen lamps compared to the 100 watt > lamp. > Equivalent color spectrum to the traditional lamp also. For as many hours as > that light is on. I suspect I am saving some money in the long run. > > Curious are these lights truly white or do they tend towards a traditional > lamp spectrum. > Regards > > On Sat, Jan 30, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Didier Juges<didier@cox.net> wrote: > > >> Yes, it is frustrating, they have to be the last dinosaurs of consumer >> distribution. >> >> For me, the nearest store is 6 hours away, if I don't get stopped for a >> speeding ticket on the way... >> So I can't afford to be interested in what they may have for sale. >> >> Didier >> >> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com >>> [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Brooke Clarke >>> Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 3:07 PM >>> To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement >>> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp >>> >>> Hi David: >>> >>> Thanks for the link. I like them. The only problem is that >>> you can not order on line or by phone from Ikea and the >>> nearest store is over two hours drive away. >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> >> > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > > >
MF
Mike Feher
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 5:57 PM

Or, possibly, your radiant personality :). - Mike

Mike B. Feher, N4FS
89 Arnold Blvd.
Howell, NJ, 07731
732-886-5960

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Dr. David Kirkby
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 12:47 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] White LED's

Dr. David Kirkby wrote:

Chuck Harris wrote:

I bought some of the LED replacements for Edison bulb incandescents, and
they have an afterglow that lasts for several minutes.  It is very much
dimmer than when they are turned on, but is there none the less.

-Chuck

I got one of these so called 2D fluorescent tubes in a packet and bought
it home on the train late in the evening. The trains are electric with
cables overhead. What was strange was that the lamp was glowing dimly in
the packet - I can only assume the E field from the overhead cables for
the train was the source of power.

Dave

I should have added, it carried on glowing for some time after I got home
too.
At that point, I was well away from the train lines, though we do have 11 kV

overhead cables around 30m from the house. It eventually stopped glowing so
I
assume it was the presence of the overhead train lines which caused this.


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Or, possibly, your radiant personality :). - Mike Mike B. Feher, N4FS 89 Arnold Blvd. Howell, NJ, 07731 732-886-5960 -----Original Message----- From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Dr. David Kirkby Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 12:47 PM To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] White LED's Dr. David Kirkby wrote: > Chuck Harris wrote: >> I bought some of the LED replacements for Edison bulb incandescents, and >> they have an afterglow that lasts for several minutes. It is very much >> dimmer than when they are turned on, but is there none the less. >> >> -Chuck > > I got one of these so called 2D fluorescent tubes in a packet and bought > it home on the train late in the evening. The trains are electric with > cables overhead. What was strange was that the lamp was glowing dimly in > the packet - I can only assume the E field from the overhead cables for > the train was the source of power. > > Dave I should have added, it carried on glowing for some time after I got home too. At that point, I was well away from the train lines, though we do have 11 kV overhead cables around 30m from the house. It eventually stopped glowing so I assume it was the presence of the overhead train lines which caused this. _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
PS
paul swed
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 6:21 PM

Clarke
Sorry to hear that you hurt your eyes. I suspect many are unaware of the
risk.
I have experimented with higher power LEDs but nothing like 7 watts so very
good to have learned something. I have to say even looking at the lower
power LEDs you get the feeling that looking straight on is not a good idea.

My wife used some of the new LEDs on a christmas tree this year. We didn't
like them and turned them off using just the traditional lamps. She now
understands what a point source is.
Also if straight on they were quite bright off angle 12 degrees they were
pretty dim.

I have tinkered for a while looking for effectively spread leds for panel
meters. I dislike changing lights in my radios. But the LED simply do not
spread light the way lamps do.

Like your idea of the flexible trouble light.

On Sat, Jan 30, 2010 at 12:55 PM, Brooke Clarke brooke@pacific.net wrote:

Hi Paul:

LEDs come in many flavors of white.  The ones called warm white can be very
comfortable but they are not as bright as the plain white or cool white
LEDs.

Also high power LEDs can burn your eye.  Not because they emit UV but
rather just because they are bright, like the Sun.
http://www.prc68.com/I/LED.shtml#Atlas  This is a 7 Watt LED that burned
my eyes.

Wien's displacement law relates the wavelength emitted from a hot body to
it's surface temperature.  For numbers for the Sun or a human see:
http://www.prc68.com/I/Probeye.shtml#WaT
Planck's law took another five years to relate frequency and surface temp.

Have Fun,

Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com

paul swed wrote:

IKEA and $39 per lamp. Sounds like some pretty good margin in the sale.
I guess these LED things will be main stream and save the world when we
see
them at walmart for $6.

On my bench I converted to 60 watt halogen lamps compared to the 100 watt
lamp.
Equivalent color spectrum to the traditional lamp also. For as many hours
as
that light is on. I suspect I am saving some money in the long run.

Curious are these lights truly white or do they tend towards a traditional
lamp spectrum.
Regards

On Sat, Jan 30, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Didier Jugesdidier@cox.net  wrote:

Yes, it is frustrating, they have to be the last dinosaurs of consumer
distribution.

For me, the nearest store is 6 hours away, if I don't get stopped for a
speeding ticket on the way...
So I can't afford to be interested in what they may have for sale.

Didier

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com
[mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Brooke Clarke
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 3:07 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp

Hi David:

Thanks for the link.  I like them.  The only problem is that
you can not order on line or by phone from Ikea and the
nearest store is over two hours drive away.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
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and follow the instructions there.


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Clarke Sorry to hear that you hurt your eyes. I suspect many are unaware of the risk. I have experimented with higher power LEDs but nothing like 7 watts so very good to have learned something. I have to say even looking at the lower power LEDs you get the feeling that looking straight on is not a good idea. My wife used some of the new LEDs on a christmas tree this year. We didn't like them and turned them off using just the traditional lamps. She now understands what a point source is. Also if straight on they were quite bright off angle 12 degrees they were pretty dim. I have tinkered for a while looking for effectively spread leds for panel meters. I dislike changing lights in my radios. But the LED simply do not spread light the way lamps do. Like your idea of the flexible trouble light. On Sat, Jan 30, 2010 at 12:55 PM, Brooke Clarke <brooke@pacific.net> wrote: > Hi Paul: > > LEDs come in many flavors of white. The ones called warm white can be very > comfortable but they are not as bright as the plain white or cool white > LEDs. > > Also high power LEDs can burn your eye. Not because they emit UV but > rather just because they are bright, like the Sun. > http://www.prc68.com/I/LED.shtml#Atlas This is a 7 Watt LED that burned > my eyes. > > Wien's displacement law relates the wavelength emitted from a hot body to > it's surface temperature. For numbers for the Sun or a human see: > http://www.prc68.com/I/Probeye.shtml#WaT > Planck's law took another five years to relate frequency and surface temp. > > Have Fun, > > Brooke Clarke > http://www.PRC68.com > > > paul swed wrote: > >> IKEA and $39 per lamp. Sounds like some pretty good margin in the sale. >> I guess these LED things will be main stream and save the world when we >> see >> them at walmart for $6. >> >> On my bench I converted to 60 watt halogen lamps compared to the 100 watt >> lamp. >> Equivalent color spectrum to the traditional lamp also. For as many hours >> as >> that light is on. I suspect I am saving some money in the long run. >> >> Curious are these lights truly white or do they tend towards a traditional >> lamp spectrum. >> Regards >> >> On Sat, Jan 30, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Didier Juges<didier@cox.net> wrote: >> >> >> >>> Yes, it is frustrating, they have to be the last dinosaurs of consumer >>> distribution. >>> >>> For me, the nearest store is 6 hours away, if I don't get stopped for a >>> speeding ticket on the way... >>> So I can't afford to be interested in what they may have for sale. >>> >>> Didier >>> >>> >>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com >>>> [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Brooke Clarke >>>> Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 3:07 PM >>>> To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement >>>> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp >>>> >>>> Hi David: >>>> >>>> Thanks for the link. I like them. The only problem is that >>>> you can not order on line or by phone from Ikea and the >>>> nearest store is over two hours drive away. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to >>> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> >> >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
CH
Chuck Harris
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 6:21 PM

Dr. David Kirkby wrote:

I should have added, it carried on glowing for some time after I got
home too. At that point, I was well away from the train lines, though we
do have 11 kV overhead cables around 30m from the house. It eventually
stopped glowing so I assume it was the presence of the overhead train
lines which caused this.

When I was a kid, there was a main set of high tension power lines several
hundred yards from my house.  I had friends that had garden sheds under the
towers that were lit by fluorescent lamps collecting the stray fields.  A
piece of wire on each end of the bulb enhanced the effect.

I knew of one guy that had a big coil of wire in the roof of his shed
and he could light a 100W incandescent bulb from the stray fields.

-Chuck Harris

Dr. David Kirkby wrote: > I should have added, it carried on glowing for some time after I got > home too. At that point, I was well away from the train lines, though we > do have 11 kV overhead cables around 30m from the house. It eventually > stopped glowing so I assume it was the presence of the overhead train > lines which caused this. When I was a kid, there was a main set of high tension power lines several hundred yards from my house. I had friends that had garden sheds under the towers that were lit by fluorescent lamps collecting the stray fields. A piece of wire on each end of the bulb enhanced the effect. I knew of one guy that had a big coil of wire in the roof of his shed and he could light a 100W incandescent bulb from the stray fields. -Chuck Harris
DM
Dave Martindale
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 7:01 PM

If you care about accurate colour rendering, stick with incandescent,
preferably halogen.  "White" LEDs are actually blue LEDs coated with a
phosphor that absorbs some of the blue light and emits approximately
yellow instead.  If you look at the spectrum, you'll see a broad yellow
peak and a narrower blue peak.  Your eyes see it as approximately white,
but it's deficient in red and green compared to a black body emitter
like hot tungsten.  On the other hand, it's not as spiky as the output
of fluorescents.

The particular IKEA units I have both look approximately "daylight" in
colour temperature, and the colour is pretty uniform across the
illuminated field (except for the very edge, which is yellow, but that's
probably due to chromatic aberration in the lens, not the LED source).
They work better than most of the LED flashlights I've seen, which tend
to have large intensity and colour changes between the centre and the
edge of the illuminated field.

 Dave

On 30/01/2010 07:49, paul swed wrote:

IKEA and $39 per lamp. Sounds like some pretty good margin in the sale.
I guess these LED things will be main stream and save the world when we see
them at walmart for $6.

On my bench I converted to 60 watt halogen lamps compared to the 100 watt
lamp.
Equivalent color spectrum to the traditional lamp also. For as many hours as
that light is on. I suspect I am saving some money in the long run.

Curious are these lights truly white or do they tend towards a traditional
lamp spectrum.
Regards

If you care about accurate colour rendering, stick with incandescent, preferably halogen. "White" LEDs are actually blue LEDs coated with a phosphor that absorbs some of the blue light and emits approximately yellow instead. If you look at the spectrum, you'll see a broad yellow peak and a narrower blue peak. Your eyes see it as approximately white, but it's deficient in red and green compared to a black body emitter like hot tungsten. On the other hand, it's not as spiky as the output of fluorescents. The particular IKEA units I have both look approximately "daylight" in colour temperature, and the colour is pretty uniform across the illuminated field (except for the very edge, which is yellow, but that's probably due to chromatic aberration in the lens, not the LED source). They work better than most of the LED flashlights I've seen, which tend to have large intensity and colour changes between the centre and the edge of the illuminated field. Dave On 30/01/2010 07:49, paul swed wrote: > IKEA and $39 per lamp. Sounds like some pretty good margin in the sale. > I guess these LED things will be main stream and save the world when we see > them at walmart for $6. > > On my bench I converted to 60 watt halogen lamps compared to the 100 watt > lamp. > Equivalent color spectrum to the traditional lamp also. For as many hours as > that light is on. I suspect I am saving some money in the long run. > > Curious are these lights truly white or do they tend towards a traditional > lamp spectrum. > Regards > >
DM
Dave Martindale
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 7:12 PM

Hmm.  Has anyone built a strobe light using LEDs instead of a xenon
flash tube?  I can see the appeal of building something that doesn't
need high voltage to fire or trigger the tube.  Yes, you probably
couldn't get as much light as a big Xenon tube, but there are
applications where you don't need to illuminate a large area.  (Recent
example of where I wished I had a stroboscope: looking at the balance
wheel of a pocket watch).

How high can you push the drive current of a LED if the pulse is short?
Of course you have to keep the average dissipation below what the device
is rated for, but there must be a peak current limit too.

 Dave

On 30/01/2010 01:17, Robert Atkinson wrote:

Hi,I'm late to the thread (as usual), but have looked at these LED's in the past. It was for a biotech imaging application. There are two types, a red/green/blue cluster or a blue / near UV LED with a white phosphor. These phosphors seem to have a fairly continuous spectrum, at least compared to fluorescent lamps and HID lamps. What surprised me was the speed. We had a strobe application for which a xenon strobe was proposed. I tried LED's (our optics "expert" said even normal LED's would not be fast enough). I knew normal LED's are fast enough but was unsure about the phosphor types. To my surprise they where faster than the xenon tube! They were faster than my detector. This has has an impact on the mill illumination in that you can get strobe effects that could cause you to think the spindle was stationary when it was not. This is more of a problem in a noisy environment than a home shop with only one machine running.
Robert G8RPI.

Hmm. Has anyone built a strobe light using LEDs instead of a xenon flash tube? I can see the appeal of building something that doesn't need high voltage to fire or trigger the tube. Yes, you probably couldn't get as much light as a big Xenon tube, but there are applications where you don't need to illuminate a large area. (Recent example of where I wished I had a stroboscope: looking at the balance wheel of a pocket watch). How high can you push the drive current of a LED if the pulse is short? Of course you have to keep the average dissipation below what the device is rated for, but there must be a peak current limit too. Dave On 30/01/2010 01:17, Robert Atkinson wrote: > Hi,I'm late to the thread (as usual), but have looked at these LED's in the past. It was for a biotech imaging application. There are two types, a red/green/blue cluster or a blue / near UV LED with a white phosphor. These phosphors seem to have a fairly continuous spectrum, at least compared to fluorescent lamps and HID lamps. What surprised me was the speed. We had a strobe application for which a xenon strobe was proposed. I tried LED's (our optics "expert" said even normal LED's would not be fast enough). I knew normal LED's are fast enough but was unsure about the phosphor types. To my surprise they where faster than the xenon tube! They were faster than my detector. This has has an impact on the mill illumination in that you can get strobe effects that could cause you to think the spindle was stationary when it was not. This is more of a problem in a noisy environment than a home shop with only one machine running. > Robert G8RPI. > >
RA
Robert Atkinson
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 7:18 PM

I have some Philips LED halogen downlighter replacements. They are rated at 3W and produce a noticeable glow when "OFF". They are on a 2-way circuit and the stray capacitance of the wiring allows enough current for a faint glow.
Robert G8RPI. 

--- On Sat, 30/1/10, Chuck Harris cfharris@erols.com wrote:

From: Chuck Harris cfharris@erols.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] White LED's
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Date: Saturday, 30 January, 2010, 14:27

I bought some of the LED replacements for Edison bulb incandescents, and
they have an afterglow that lasts for several minutes.  It is very much
dimmer than when they are turned on, but is there none the less.

-Chuck

Bruce Griffiths wrote:

The speed isn't  terribly surprising since the "phosphor" used  is actually a scintillator.
Unlike phosphors scintillators don't have long decay times so there is no afterglow like that from a phosphor.

The IKEA LED lamp output may not be significantly modulated if the wall wart constant current supply may have an output thats a little smoother than just rectified AC.

Bruce


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I have some Philips LED halogen downlighter replacements. They are rated at 3W and produce a noticeable glow when "OFF". They are on a 2-way circuit and the stray capacitance of the wiring allows enough current for a faint glow. Robert G8RPI.  --- On Sat, 30/1/10, Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com> wrote: From: Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] White LED's To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> Date: Saturday, 30 January, 2010, 14:27 I bought some of the LED replacements for Edison bulb incandescents, and they have an afterglow that lasts for several minutes.  It is very much dimmer than when they are turned on, but is there none the less. -Chuck Bruce Griffiths wrote: > The speed isn't  terribly surprising since the "phosphor" used  is actually a scintillator. > Unlike phosphors scintillators don't have long decay times so there is no afterglow like that from a phosphor. > > The IKEA LED lamp output may not be significantly modulated if the wall wart constant current supply may have an output thats a little smoother than just rectified AC. > > Bruce _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
DM
Dave Martindale
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 7:26 PM

There are also large differences in rated lifetime; look at the fine
print on the package.

I've had some early Philips units that I used in a timer-driven lamp;
they were on for hours every day.  The lamp lasted for years and years
and I eventually threw it out because it had gotten dim (the tube was
visibly blackened inside), but it was still working.  It was rated for
10000 hours, and probably reached that before I junked it.

On the other hand, I've had some cheap Ikea lamps fail in ceiling lights
in little more than a year.  The electronics self-destructed.  Took a
close look at the package for a new one, and they are rated for only
2000 hours - which is easy to use up in a year in a room where the
lights are on 6 hours every evening.

Now, using CFLs of any type reduces electricity use compared to
incandescent, and that's worthwhile in many applications.  But CFLs also
add a bunch of electronics parts to the waste stream when they are
thrown out - they're much worse than incandescents in that respect.  So
when I use fluorescents, I prefer replaceable-tube units (where the
electronics in the ballast will last for decades, not be replaced every
couple of years).  In places where I need a screw-in self-ballast type,
I look for the more expensive 10,000 hour types instead of the cheap
2000-hour ones.

And, as someone else pointed out, it doesn't make much sense to use CFLs
in applications where they are turned on and off a lot, since their life
will be much shorter than rated.  (But LEDs should be fine for this,
once the price comes down a bunch).

 Dave

On 30/01/2010 05:31, Didier Juges wrote:

Also they are very sensitive to heat, so do not use them in an enclosed
fixture.

I have been burned (figuratively) with these two gotchas, there may be more.
The one that lasts the longest in my house is the outside light at my back
door. It is turned on once a day around 6-7 PM and off in the morning, so
about 12 hours a day every day, and it lasts for years at that rate. Those
in the bathroom that get to be turned on and off several times a day for a
relatively short time don't do nearly as well.

Didier

There are also large differences in rated lifetime; look at the fine print on the package. I've had some early Philips units that I used in a timer-driven lamp; they were on for hours every day. The lamp lasted for years and years and I eventually threw it out because it had gotten dim (the tube was visibly blackened inside), but it was still working. It was rated for 10000 hours, and probably reached that before I junked it. On the other hand, I've had some cheap Ikea lamps fail in ceiling lights in little more than a year. The electronics self-destructed. Took a close look at the package for a new one, and they are rated for only 2000 hours - which is easy to use up in a year in a room where the lights are on 6 hours every evening. Now, using CFLs of any type reduces electricity use compared to incandescent, and that's worthwhile in many applications. But CFLs also add a bunch of electronics parts to the waste stream when they are thrown out - they're much worse than incandescents in that respect. So when I use fluorescents, I prefer replaceable-tube units (where the electronics in the ballast will last for decades, not be replaced every couple of years). In places where I need a screw-in self-ballast type, I look for the more expensive 10,000 hour types instead of the cheap 2000-hour ones. And, as someone else pointed out, it doesn't make much sense to use CFLs in applications where they are turned on and off a lot, since their life will be much shorter than rated. (But LEDs should be fine for this, once the price comes down a bunch). Dave On 30/01/2010 05:31, Didier Juges wrote: > Also they are very sensitive to heat, so do not use them in an enclosed > fixture. > > I have been burned (figuratively) with these two gotchas, there may be more. > The one that lasts the longest in my house is the outside light at my back > door. It is turned on once a day around 6-7 PM and off in the morning, so > about 12 hours a day every day, and it lasts for years at that rate. Those > in the bathroom that get to be turned on and off several times a day for a > relatively short time don't do nearly as well. > > Didier >
RA
Robert Atkinson
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 7:41 PM

Hi Dave,Yes I have. There was also a design in Nuts&Volts a while back. Generally if you keep the duty cycle low  (<1:20) and pulses short (<20ms) you can push most LED's to about ten times their maximum continuous rated current without ill effect. Looking at the continuous and pulse ratings of IR LED's can give an idea of the "abuse" LED's can handle. Some small white LEDs do have pulse specifications, they are used as the flash in cell phone cameras.  They make very good small strobes with much less "tail" than the $200 miniature Hamamatsu xenon tubes we were comparing them to. 
Robert.G8RPI.

--- On Sat, 30/1/10, Dave Martindale dave.martindale@gmail.com wrote:

From: Dave Martindale dave.martindale@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] White LED's
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Date: Saturday, 30 January, 2010, 19:12

Hmm.  Has anyone built a strobe light using LEDs instead of a xenon flash tube?  I can see the appeal of building something that doesn't need high voltage to fire or trigger the tube.  Yes, you probably couldn't get as much light as a big Xenon tube, but there are applications where you don't need to illuminate a large area.  (Recent example of where I wished I had a stroboscope: looking at the balance wheel of a pocket watch).

How high can you push the drive current of a LED if the pulse is short?  Of course you have to keep the average dissipation below what the device is rated for, but there must be a peak current limit too.

    Dave

On 30/01/2010 01:17, Robert Atkinson wrote:

Hi,I'm late to the thread (as usual), but have looked at these LED's in the past. It was for a biotech imaging application. There are two types, a red/green/blue cluster or a blue / near UV LED with a white phosphor. These phosphors seem to have a fairly continuous spectrum, at least compared to fluorescent lamps and HID lamps. What surprised me was the speed. We had a strobe application for which a xenon strobe was proposed. I tried LED's (our optics "expert" said even normal LED's would not be fast enough). I knew normal LED's are fast enough but was unsure about the phosphor types. To my surprise they where faster than the xenon tube! They were faster than my detector. This has has an impact on the mill illumination in that you can get strobe effects that could cause you to think the spindle was stationary when it was not. This is more of a problem in a noisy environment than a home shop with only one machine running.  Robert G8RPI.

   


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Hi Dave,Yes I have. There was also a design in Nuts&Volts a while back. Generally if you keep the duty cycle low  (<1:20) and pulses short (<20ms) you can push most LED's to about ten times their maximum continuous rated current without ill effect. Looking at the continuous and pulse ratings of IR LED's can give an idea of the "abuse" LED's can handle. Some small white LEDs do have pulse specifications, they are used as the flash in cell phone cameras.  They make very good small strobes with much less "tail" than the $200 miniature Hamamatsu xenon tubes we were comparing them to.  Robert.G8RPI. --- On Sat, 30/1/10, Dave Martindale <dave.martindale@gmail.com> wrote: From: Dave Martindale <dave.martindale@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] White LED's To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> Date: Saturday, 30 January, 2010, 19:12 Hmm.  Has anyone built a strobe light using LEDs instead of a xenon flash tube?  I can see the appeal of building something that doesn't need high voltage to fire or trigger the tube.  Yes, you probably couldn't get as much light as a big Xenon tube, but there are applications where you don't need to illuminate a large area.  (Recent example of where I wished I had a stroboscope: looking at the balance wheel of a pocket watch). How high can you push the drive current of a LED if the pulse is short?  Of course you have to keep the average dissipation below what the device is rated for, but there must be a peak current limit too.     Dave On 30/01/2010 01:17, Robert Atkinson wrote: > Hi,I'm late to the thread (as usual), but have looked at these LED's in the past. It was for a biotech imaging application. There are two types, a red/green/blue cluster or a blue / near UV LED with a white phosphor. These phosphors seem to have a fairly continuous spectrum, at least compared to fluorescent lamps and HID lamps. What surprised me was the speed. We had a strobe application for which a xenon strobe was proposed. I tried LED's (our optics "expert" said even normal LED's would not be fast enough). I knew normal LED's are fast enough but was unsure about the phosphor types. To my surprise they where faster than the xenon tube! They were faster than my detector. This has has an impact on the mill illumination in that you can get strobe effects that could cause you to think the spindle was stationary when it was not. This is more of a problem in a noisy environment than a home shop with only one machine running.  Robert G8RPI. > >    _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
BC
Brooke Clarke
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 7:42 PM

Hi Dave:

LEDs are used on many cell phone cameras in just that way.  The data
sheets for the LEDs have the pulse use specs.

At:  http://www.sd36.bc.ca/sulhts/departments/elx/p/elec.html
scroll down to the "Boy Scout Motor" and notice a common LED held by two
wires that's being used as a strobe light.

Have Fun,

Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com

Dave Martindale wrote:

Hmm.  Has anyone built a strobe light using LEDs instead of a xenon
flash tube?  I can see the appeal of building something that doesn't
need high voltage to fire or trigger the tube.  Yes, you probably
couldn't get as much light as a big Xenon tube, but there are
applications where you don't need to illuminate a large area.  (Recent
example of where I wished I had a stroboscope: looking at the balance
wheel of a pocket watch).

How high can you push the drive current of a LED if the pulse is
short?  Of course you have to keep the average dissipation below what
the device is rated for, but there must be a peak current limit too.

 Dave

On 30/01/2010 01:17, Robert Atkinson wrote:

Hi,I'm late to the thread (as usual), but have looked at these LED's
in the past. It was for a biotech imaging application. There are two
types, a red/green/blue cluster or a blue / near UV LED with a white
phosphor. These phosphors seem to have a fairly continuous spectrum,
at least compared to fluorescent lamps and HID lamps. What surprised
me was the speed. We had a strobe application for which a xenon
strobe was proposed. I tried LED's (our optics "expert" said even
normal LED's would not be fast enough). I knew normal LED's are fast
enough but was unsure about the phosphor types. To my surprise they
where faster than the xenon tube! They were faster than my detector.
This has has an impact on the mill illumination in that you can get
strobe effects that could cause you to think the spindle was
stationary when it was not. This is more of a problem in a noisy
environment than a home shop with only one machine running.  Robert
G8RPI.


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Hi Dave: LEDs are used on many cell phone cameras in just that way. The data sheets for the LEDs have the pulse use specs. At: http://www.sd36.bc.ca/sulhts/departments/elx/p/elec.html scroll down to the "Boy Scout Motor" and notice a common LED held by two wires that's being used as a strobe light. Have Fun, Brooke Clarke http://www.PRC68.com Dave Martindale wrote: > Hmm. Has anyone built a strobe light using LEDs instead of a xenon > flash tube? I can see the appeal of building something that doesn't > need high voltage to fire or trigger the tube. Yes, you probably > couldn't get as much light as a big Xenon tube, but there are > applications where you don't need to illuminate a large area. (Recent > example of where I wished I had a stroboscope: looking at the balance > wheel of a pocket watch). > > How high can you push the drive current of a LED if the pulse is > short? Of course you have to keep the average dissipation below what > the device is rated for, but there must be a peak current limit too. > > Dave > > On 30/01/2010 01:17, Robert Atkinson wrote: >> Hi,I'm late to the thread (as usual), but have looked at these LED's >> in the past. It was for a biotech imaging application. There are two >> types, a red/green/blue cluster or a blue / near UV LED with a white >> phosphor. These phosphors seem to have a fairly continuous spectrum, >> at least compared to fluorescent lamps and HID lamps. What surprised >> me was the speed. We had a strobe application for which a xenon >> strobe was proposed. I tried LED's (our optics "expert" said even >> normal LED's would not be fast enough). I knew normal LED's are fast >> enough but was unsure about the phosphor types. To my surprise they >> where faster than the xenon tube! They were faster than my detector. >> This has has an impact on the mill illumination in that you can get >> strobe effects that could cause you to think the spindle was >> stationary when it was not. This is more of a problem in a noisy >> environment than a home shop with only one machine running. Robert >> G8RPI. >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > >
BG
Bruce Griffiths
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 8:14 PM

Chuck Harris wrote:

I bought some of the LED replacements for Edison bulb incandescents, and
they have an afterglow that lasts for several minutes.  It is very much
dimmer than when they are turned on, but is there none the less.

-Chuck

Bruce Griffiths wrote:

The speed isn't  terribly surprising since the "phosphor" used  is
actually a scintillator.
Unlike phosphors scintillators don't have long decay times so there
is no afterglow like that from a phosphor.

The IKEA LED lamp output may not be significantly modulated if the
wall wart constant current supply may have an output thats a little
smoother than just rectified AC.

Bruce

Some white LEDs use phosphors, others use scintillators it varies from
manufacturer to manufacturer and part no to part no.

Bruce

Chuck Harris wrote: > I bought some of the LED replacements for Edison bulb incandescents, and > they have an afterglow that lasts for several minutes. It is very much > dimmer than when they are turned on, but is there none the less. > > -Chuck > > Bruce Griffiths wrote: >> The speed isn't terribly surprising since the "phosphor" used is >> actually a scintillator. >> Unlike phosphors scintillators don't have long decay times so there >> is no afterglow like that from a phosphor. >> >> The IKEA LED lamp output may not be significantly modulated if the >> wall wart constant current supply may have an output thats a little >> smoother than just rectified AC. >> >> Bruce > Some white LEDs use phosphors, others use scintillators it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and part no to part no. Bruce
MR
Max Robinson
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 8:15 PM

I remember hearing about a law suit in an engineering law class I had to
take way back when.  It seems a farmer had a long fence running under and
parallel to a high tension distribution line.  He had hidden a copper line
in it and was harvesting enough power to operate most of his farm buildings.
This amounted to a measurable loss from the distribution line and the power
company found him out and sued.  The court ruled he had to pay for power
used in the past and stop getting his power that way.  Considering the
source I don't think this is an urban legend.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: max@maxsmusicplace.com

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
funwithtransistors-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

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----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Harris" cfharris@erols.com
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"
time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] White LED's

Dr. David Kirkby wrote:

I should have added, it carried on glowing for some time after I got
home too. At that point, I was well away from the train lines, though we
do have 11 kV overhead cables around 30m from the house. It eventually
stopped glowing so I assume it was the presence of the overhead train
lines which caused this.

When I was a kid, there was a main set of high tension power lines several
hundred yards from my house.  I had friends that had garden sheds under
the
towers that were lit by fluorescent lamps collecting the stray fields.  A
piece of wire on each end of the bulb enhanced the effect.

I knew of one guy that had a big coil of wire in the roof of his shed
and he could light a 100W incandescent bulb from the stray fields.

-Chuck Harris


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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2656 - Release Date: 01/29/10
19:35:00

I remember hearing about a law suit in an engineering law class I had to take way back when. It seems a farmer had a long fence running under and parallel to a high tension distribution line. He had hidden a copper line in it and was harvesting enough power to operate most of his farm buildings. This amounted to a measurable loss from the distribution line and the power company found him out and sued. The court ruled he had to pay for power used in the past and stop getting his power that way. Considering the source I don't think this is an urban legend. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: max@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscribe@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscribe@yahoogroups.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chuck Harris" <cfharris@erols.com> To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 12:21 PM Subject: Re: [time-nuts] White LED's > Dr. David Kirkby wrote: > >> I should have added, it carried on glowing for some time after I got >> home too. At that point, I was well away from the train lines, though we >> do have 11 kV overhead cables around 30m from the house. It eventually >> stopped glowing so I assume it was the presence of the overhead train >> lines which caused this. > > When I was a kid, there was a main set of high tension power lines several > hundred yards from my house. I had friends that had garden sheds under > the > towers that were lit by fluorescent lamps collecting the stray fields. A > piece of wire on each end of the bulb enhanced the effect. > > I knew of one guy that had a big coil of wire in the roof of his shed > and he could light a 100W incandescent bulb from the stray fields. > > -Chuck Harris > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2656 - Release Date: 01/29/10 19:35:00
N
NeonJohn
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 8:50 PM

Chuck Harris wrote:

I have several rooms that are lit exclusively with CFL's, and I find
that for best life, I have to leave them on all the time.  That is what
EPA has found too!  CFL's may take less power for a given illumination,
but the owners leave them on far longer than incandescent, and the net
result is greater power consumption overall.

Here's an interesting bit of opposite experience.  When I had a
restaurant, I had a walk-in freezer.  I wanted to know when the
compressor was running so I wired a light socket across the compressor
contactor coil terminals and located it where I could see it from the
dining room where I sat when not busy.

I tried all sorts of light in that thing. Long life, rough duty, pilot
light, none of them could stand the 2-3 times an hour cycling.  Then I
installed a little 7 watt organ pipe CFL.  It lasted over 5 years and
was still going strong when I closed the restaurant.

Add that to the mandatory drop of mercury in each, and I really can't
see how they can sell them at all.

Now Chuck, don't go getting all chemophobic on us now!

I got two for "free" from my power company (They hid the charge on my
bill, until the courts made them reverse it...) and included with the
CFL's was an elaborate procedure for cleaning up a broken CFL.  It involved
opening all of the windows, and leaving the room for a couple of hours,
and then, with a gloved hand putting the pieces on newspaper, and folding
the newspaper up and putting it in a 1 gallon zip lock baggie.  To clean up
the broken bits, you are supposed to vacuum the area with a fresh vacuum
cleaner bag, and then put the vacuum cleaner bag in a ziplock baggie, and
take the remains off to the hazardous waste disposal facility.

That's embarrassing to read, it's so stupid.  Like some meaningless
worship ceremony to mother Gaia or something.

Geez, there's less than 10 milligrams of merc in a "100 watt" CFL.  That
is a harmless amount, especially considering that elemental mercury is
fairly harmless.

What'll they come up with next, HAZMAT team if you spill some paint thinner?

John

--
John DeArmond
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
http://www.neon-john.com    <-- email from here
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- Best damned Blog on the net
PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77

Chuck Harris wrote: > I have several rooms that are lit exclusively with CFL's, and I find > that for best life, I have to leave them on all the time. That is what > EPA has found too! CFL's may take less power for a given illumination, > but the owners leave them on far longer than incandescent, and the net > result is greater power consumption overall. Here's an interesting bit of opposite experience. When I had a restaurant, I had a walk-in freezer. I wanted to know when the compressor was running so I wired a light socket across the compressor contactor coil terminals and located it where I could see it from the dining room where I sat when not busy. I tried all sorts of light in that thing. Long life, rough duty, pilot light, none of them could stand the 2-3 times an hour cycling. Then I installed a little 7 watt organ pipe CFL. It lasted over 5 years and was still going strong when I closed the restaurant. > > Add that to the mandatory drop of mercury in each, and I really can't > see how they can sell them at all. Now Chuck, don't go getting all chemophobic on us now! > > I got two for "free" from my power company (They hid the charge on my > bill, until the courts made them reverse it...) and included with the > CFL's was an elaborate procedure for cleaning up a broken CFL. It involved > opening all of the windows, and leaving the room for a couple of hours, > and then, with a gloved hand putting the pieces on newspaper, and folding > the newspaper up and putting it in a 1 gallon zip lock baggie. To clean up > the broken bits, you are supposed to vacuum the area with a fresh vacuum > cleaner bag, and then put the vacuum cleaner bag in a ziplock baggie, and > take the remains off to the hazardous waste disposal facility. That's embarrassing to read, it's so stupid. Like some meaningless worship ceremony to mother Gaia or something. Geez, there's less than 10 milligrams of merc in a "100 watt" CFL. That is a harmless amount, especially considering that elemental mercury is fairly harmless. What'll they come up with next, HAZMAT team if you spill some paint thinner? John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.neon-john.com <-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com <-- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77
BG
Bruce Griffiths
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 9:08 PM

NeonJohn wrote:

Chuck Harris wrote:

I have several rooms that are lit exclusively with CFL's, and I find
that for best life, I have to leave them on all the time.  That is what
EPA has found too!  CFL's may take less power for a given illumination,
but the owners leave them on far longer than incandescent, and the net
result is greater power consumption overall.

Here's an interesting bit of opposite experience.  When I had a
restaurant, I had a walk-in freezer.  I wanted to know when the
compressor was running so I wired a light socket across the compressor
contactor coil terminals and located it where I could see it from the
dining room where I sat when not busy.

I tried all sorts of light in that thing. Long life, rough duty, pilot
light, none of them could stand the 2-3 times an hour cycling.  Then I
installed a little 7 watt organ pipe CFL.  It lasted over 5 years and
was still going strong when I closed the restaurant.

Add that to the mandatory drop of mercury in each, and I really can't
see how they can sell them at all.

Now Chuck, don't go getting all chemophobic on us now!

I got two for "free" from my power company (They hid the charge on my
bill, until the courts made them reverse it...) and included with the
CFL's was an elaborate procedure for cleaning up a broken CFL.  It involved
opening all of the windows, and leaving the room for a couple of hours,
and then, with a gloved hand putting the pieces on newspaper, and folding
the newspaper up and putting it in a 1 gallon zip lock baggie.  To clean up
the broken bits, you are supposed to vacuum the area with a fresh vacuum
cleaner bag, and then put the vacuum cleaner bag in a ziplock baggie, and
take the remains off to the hazardous waste disposal facility.

That's embarrassing to read, it's so stupid.  Like some meaningless
worship ceremony to mother Gaia or something.

Geez, there's less than 10 milligrams of merc in a "100 watt" CFL.  That
is a harmless amount, especially considering that elemental mercury is
fairly harmless.

What'll they come up with next, HAZMAT team if you spill some paint thinner?

John

If the intention is to cleanup the mercury rather than just the glass
and relatively non toxic phosphor then the cleanup procedure is contrary
to the method outlined in:
http://www.p2pays.org/ref/15/14605.htm

If one is paranoid about mercury spills sprinkling the debris with
flowers of sulphur is a good idea especially if one intends to
repeatedly break CFLs in the same location.

Bruce

NeonJohn wrote: > > Chuck Harris wrote: > > >> I have several rooms that are lit exclusively with CFL's, and I find >> that for best life, I have to leave them on all the time. That is what >> EPA has found too! CFL's may take less power for a given illumination, >> but the owners leave them on far longer than incandescent, and the net >> result is greater power consumption overall. >> > Here's an interesting bit of opposite experience. When I had a > restaurant, I had a walk-in freezer. I wanted to know when the > compressor was running so I wired a light socket across the compressor > contactor coil terminals and located it where I could see it from the > dining room where I sat when not busy. > > I tried all sorts of light in that thing. Long life, rough duty, pilot > light, none of them could stand the 2-3 times an hour cycling. Then I > installed a little 7 watt organ pipe CFL. It lasted over 5 years and > was still going strong when I closed the restaurant. > > >> Add that to the mandatory drop of mercury in each, and I really can't >> see how they can sell them at all. >> > Now Chuck, don't go getting all chemophobic on us now! > > >> I got two for "free" from my power company (They hid the charge on my >> bill, until the courts made them reverse it...) and included with the >> CFL's was an elaborate procedure for cleaning up a broken CFL. It involved >> opening all of the windows, and leaving the room for a couple of hours, >> and then, with a gloved hand putting the pieces on newspaper, and folding >> the newspaper up and putting it in a 1 gallon zip lock baggie. To clean up >> the broken bits, you are supposed to vacuum the area with a fresh vacuum >> cleaner bag, and then put the vacuum cleaner bag in a ziplock baggie, and >> take the remains off to the hazardous waste disposal facility. >> > That's embarrassing to read, it's so stupid. Like some meaningless > worship ceremony to mother Gaia or something. > > Geez, there's less than 10 milligrams of merc in a "100 watt" CFL. That > is a harmless amount, especially considering that elemental mercury is > fairly harmless. > > What'll they come up with next, HAZMAT team if you spill some paint thinner? > > John > > > If the intention is to cleanup the mercury rather than just the glass and relatively non toxic phosphor then the cleanup procedure is contrary to the method outlined in: http://www.p2pays.org/ref/15/14605.htm If one is paranoid about mercury spills sprinkling the debris with flowers of sulphur is a good idea especially if one intends to repeatedly break CFLs in the same location. Bruce
CH
Chuck Harris
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 10:05 PM

Oh I am certain that they can measure the losses, especially today.

I disagree that harvesting the fields from a hundred feet away is
theft, though.  Especially if it is on your own property.

The easements on my property give the power companies the right
to come onto the property and maintain the lines, but they say
nothing about giving them the right to immerse my property in
high flux AC fields.  They were written in a less technical era,
but they are still in force.

-Chuck Harris

Max Robinson wrote:

I remember hearing about a law suit in an engineering law class I had to
take way back when.  It seems a farmer had a long fence running under
and parallel to a high tension distribution line.  He had hidden a
copper line in it and was harvesting enough power to operate most of his
farm buildings. This amounted to a measurable loss from the distribution
line and the power company found him out and sued.  The court ruled he
had to pay for power used in the past and stop getting his power that
way.  Considering the source I don't think this is an urban legend.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Oh I am certain that they can measure the losses, especially today. I disagree that harvesting the fields from a hundred feet away is theft, though. Especially if it is on your own property. The easements on my property give the power companies the right to come onto the property and maintain the lines, but they say nothing about giving them the right to immerse my property in high flux AC fields. They were written in a less technical era, but they are still in force. -Chuck Harris Max Robinson wrote: > I remember hearing about a law suit in an engineering law class I had to > take way back when. It seems a farmer had a long fence running under > and parallel to a high tension distribution line. He had hidden a > copper line in it and was harvesting enough power to operate most of his > farm buildings. This amounted to a measurable loss from the distribution > line and the power company found him out and sued. The court ruled he > had to pay for power used in the past and stop getting his power that > way. Considering the source I don't think this is an urban legend. > > Regards. > > Max. K 4 O D S.
NM
Neville Michie
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 10:17 PM

Wait until they find out there is arsenic in LEDs!

cheers, Neville Michie

On 31/01/2010, at 7:50 AM, NeonJohn wrote:

Chuck Harris wrote:

I have several rooms that are lit exclusively with CFL's, and I find
that for best life, I have to leave them on all the time.  That is
what
EPA has found too!  CFL's may take less power for a given
illumination,
but the owners leave them on far longer than incandescent, and the
net
result is greater power consumption overall.

Here's an interesting bit of opposite experience.  When I had a
restaurant, I had a walk-in freezer.  I wanted to know when the
compressor was running so I wired a light socket across the compressor
contactor coil terminals and located it where I could see it from the
dining room where I sat when not busy.

I tried all sorts of light in that thing. Long life, rough duty, pilot
light, none of them could stand the 2-3 times an hour cycling.  Then I
installed a little 7 watt organ pipe CFL.  It lasted over 5 years and
was still going strong when I closed the restaurant.

Add that to the mandatory drop of mercury in each, and I really can't
see how they can sell them at all.

Now Chuck, don't go getting all chemophobic on us now!

I got two for "free" from my power company (They hid the charge on my
bill, until the courts made them reverse it...) and included with the
CFL's was an elaborate procedure for cleaning up a broken CFL.  It
involved
opening all of the windows, and leaving the room for a couple of
hours,
and then, with a gloved hand putting the pieces on newspaper, and
folding
the newspaper up and putting it in a 1 gallon zip lock baggie.  To
clean up
the broken bits, you are supposed to vacuum the area with a fresh
vacuum
cleaner bag, and then put the vacuum cleaner bag in a ziplock
baggie, and
take the remains off to the hazardous waste disposal facility.

That's embarrassing to read, it's so stupid.  Like some meaningless
worship ceremony to mother Gaia or something.

Geez, there's less than 10 milligrams of merc in a "100 watt" CFL.
That
is a harmless amount, especially considering that elemental mercury is
fairly harmless.

What'll they come up with next, HAZMAT team if you spill some paint
thinner?

John

--
John DeArmond
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
http://www.neon-john.com    <-- email from here
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- Best damned Blog on the net
PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/
time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Wait until they find out there is arsenic in LEDs! cheers, Neville Michie On 31/01/2010, at 7:50 AM, NeonJohn wrote: > > > Chuck Harris wrote: > >> I have several rooms that are lit exclusively with CFL's, and I find >> that for best life, I have to leave them on all the time. That is >> what >> EPA has found too! CFL's may take less power for a given >> illumination, >> but the owners leave them on far longer than incandescent, and the >> net >> result is greater power consumption overall. > > Here's an interesting bit of opposite experience. When I had a > restaurant, I had a walk-in freezer. I wanted to know when the > compressor was running so I wired a light socket across the compressor > contactor coil terminals and located it where I could see it from the > dining room where I sat when not busy. > > I tried all sorts of light in that thing. Long life, rough duty, pilot > light, none of them could stand the 2-3 times an hour cycling. Then I > installed a little 7 watt organ pipe CFL. It lasted over 5 years and > was still going strong when I closed the restaurant. > >> >> Add that to the mandatory drop of mercury in each, and I really can't >> see how they can sell them at all. > > Now Chuck, don't go getting all chemophobic on us now! > >> >> I got two for "free" from my power company (They hid the charge on my >> bill, until the courts made them reverse it...) and included with the >> CFL's was an elaborate procedure for cleaning up a broken CFL. It >> involved >> opening all of the windows, and leaving the room for a couple of >> hours, >> and then, with a gloved hand putting the pieces on newspaper, and >> folding >> the newspaper up and putting it in a 1 gallon zip lock baggie. To >> clean up >> the broken bits, you are supposed to vacuum the area with a fresh >> vacuum >> cleaner bag, and then put the vacuum cleaner bag in a ziplock >> baggie, and >> take the remains off to the hazardous waste disposal facility. > > That's embarrassing to read, it's so stupid. Like some meaningless > worship ceremony to mother Gaia or something. > > Geez, there's less than 10 milligrams of merc in a "100 watt" CFL. > That > is a harmless amount, especially considering that elemental mercury is > fairly harmless. > > What'll they come up with next, HAZMAT team if you spill some paint > thinner? > > John > > > -- > John DeArmond > Tellico Plains, Occupied TN > http://www.neon-john.com <-- email from here > http://www.johndearmond.com <-- Best damned Blog on the net > PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/ > time-nuts > and follow the instructions there.
CH
Chuck Harris
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 10:22 PM

NeonJohn wrote:

Chuck Harris wrote:

I have several rooms that are lit exclusively with CFL's, and I find
that for best life, I have to leave them on all the time.  That is what
EPA has found too!  CFL's may take less power for a given illumination,
but the owners leave them on far longer than incandescent, and the net
result is greater power consumption overall.

Here's an interesting bit of opposite experience.  When I had a
restaurant, I had a walk-in freezer.  I wanted to know when the
compressor was running so I wired a light socket across the compressor
contactor coil terminals and located it where I could see it from the
dining room where I sat when not busy.

Having looked at the circuitry, I can't see any real reason why cycling
would be hard on the usual CFL.  The filaments glow red the entire time
they are on anyway, and the inverter is a simple FET multivibrator.

I think the reason people leave them on longer than the equivalent
incandescent is CFL's take a while to ramp up to full brilliance, and
they reason that at 1/4 the power draw, they are essentially free to
run.

In any case, I know I leave them on longer than I would if they were
instant on... for real, and EPA has noticed that others do the same.

I tried all sorts of light in that thing. Long life, rough duty, pilot
light, none of them could stand the 2-3 times an hour cycling.  Then I
installed a little 7 watt organ pipe CFL.  It lasted over 5 years and
was still going strong when I closed the restaurant.

Add that to the mandatory drop of mercury in each, and I really can't
see how they can sell them at all.

Now Chuck, don't go getting all chemophobic on us now!

Me?  With my chemistry and nuke background?  Not likely!

I am just making a statement based on my observations of the eco-hysteria
the powers that be seem to exhibit.

I got two for "free" from my power company (They hid the charge on my
bill, until the courts made them reverse it...) and included with the
CFL's was an elaborate procedure for cleaning up a broken CFL.  It involved
opening all of the windows, and leaving the room for a couple of hours,
and then, with a gloved hand putting the pieces on newspaper, and folding
the newspaper up and putting it in a 1 gallon zip lock baggie.  To clean up
the broken bits, you are supposed to vacuum the area with a fresh vacuum
cleaner bag, and then put the vacuum cleaner bag in a ziplock baggie, and
take the remains off to the hazardous waste disposal facility.

That's embarrassing to read, it's so stupid.  Like some meaningless
worship ceremony to mother Gaia or something.

That's why I am sharing.

Geez, there's less than 10 milligrams of merc in a "100 watt" CFL.  That
is a harmless amount, especially considering that elemental mercury is
fairly harmless.

Yes, and no.  When mercury hits the ground, it splatters into hundreds of
miniballs of mercury.  When you walk on them, they further fracture, and
by the time you are done, you have increased the surface area of the mini
drop of mercury greatly... probably thousands of times.  That increases
the mercury vapor emitted into the room.

Is it harmful?  Maybe.  Maybe not.

What'll they come up with next, HAZMAT team if you spill some paint thinner?

As the laws are currently written, if you intentionally pour any amount of
gasoline, or paint thinner onto the ground you are committing a crime.

-Chuck Harris

NeonJohn wrote: > > Chuck Harris wrote: > >> I have several rooms that are lit exclusively with CFL's, and I find >> that for best life, I have to leave them on all the time. That is what >> EPA has found too! CFL's may take less power for a given illumination, >> but the owners leave them on far longer than incandescent, and the net >> result is greater power consumption overall. > > Here's an interesting bit of opposite experience. When I had a > restaurant, I had a walk-in freezer. I wanted to know when the > compressor was running so I wired a light socket across the compressor > contactor coil terminals and located it where I could see it from the > dining room where I sat when not busy. Having looked at the circuitry, I can't see any real reason why cycling would be hard on the usual CFL. The filaments glow red the entire time they are on anyway, and the inverter is a simple FET multivibrator. I think the reason people leave them on longer than the equivalent incandescent is CFL's take a while to ramp up to full brilliance, and they reason that at 1/4 the power draw, they are essentially free to run. In any case, I know I leave them on longer than I would if they were instant on... for real, and EPA has noticed that others do the same. > I tried all sorts of light in that thing. Long life, rough duty, pilot > light, none of them could stand the 2-3 times an hour cycling. Then I > installed a little 7 watt organ pipe CFL. It lasted over 5 years and > was still going strong when I closed the restaurant. > >> Add that to the mandatory drop of mercury in each, and I really can't >> see how they can sell them at all. > > Now Chuck, don't go getting all chemophobic on us now! Me? With my chemistry and nuke background? Not likely! I am just making a statement based on my observations of the eco-hysteria the powers that be seem to exhibit. >> I got two for "free" from my power company (They hid the charge on my >> bill, until the courts made them reverse it...) and included with the >> CFL's was an elaborate procedure for cleaning up a broken CFL. It involved >> opening all of the windows, and leaving the room for a couple of hours, >> and then, with a gloved hand putting the pieces on newspaper, and folding >> the newspaper up and putting it in a 1 gallon zip lock baggie. To clean up >> the broken bits, you are supposed to vacuum the area with a fresh vacuum >> cleaner bag, and then put the vacuum cleaner bag in a ziplock baggie, and >> take the remains off to the hazardous waste disposal facility. > > That's embarrassing to read, it's so stupid. Like some meaningless > worship ceremony to mother Gaia or something. That's why I am sharing. > Geez, there's less than 10 milligrams of merc in a "100 watt" CFL. That > is a harmless amount, especially considering that elemental mercury is > fairly harmless. Yes, and no. When mercury hits the ground, it splatters into hundreds of miniballs of mercury. When you walk on them, they further fracture, and by the time you are done, you have increased the surface area of the mini drop of mercury greatly... probably thousands of times. That increases the mercury vapor emitted into the room. Is it harmful? Maybe. Maybe not. > What'll they come up with next, HAZMAT team if you spill some paint thinner? As the laws are currently written, if you intentionally pour any amount of gasoline, or paint thinner onto the ground you are committing a crime. -Chuck Harris
CH
Chuck Harris
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 10:24 PM

Bruce Griffiths wrote:

If the intention is to cleanup the mercury rather than just the glass
and relatively non toxic phosphor then the cleanup procedure is contrary
to the method outlined in:
http://www.p2pays.org/ref/15/14605.htm

If one is paranoid about mercury spills sprinkling the debris with
flowers of sulphur is a good idea especially if one intends to
repeatedly break CFLs in the same location.

Bruce

I think they might have gotten a little push back from the sheeple
if they suggested sprinkling any kind of chemical on Mom's carpet.

-Chuck Harris

Bruce Griffiths wrote: >> > If the intention is to cleanup the mercury rather than just the glass > and relatively non toxic phosphor then the cleanup procedure is contrary > to the method outlined in: > http://www.p2pays.org/ref/15/14605.htm > > If one is paranoid about mercury spills sprinkling the debris with > flowers of sulphur is a good idea especially if one intends to > repeatedly break CFLs in the same location. > > Bruce I think they might have gotten a little push back from the sheeple if they suggested sprinkling any kind of chemical on Mom's carpet. -Chuck Harris
DJ
Didier Juges
Sat, Jan 30, 2010 10:46 PM

According to the paper that was linked earlier, there are 3 types of
fluorescent bulbs, some have no heater at all and are started with a high
voltage pulse that causes accelerated damage.
Those suffer from the most life reduction when cycled.

Those with the always on heater suffer the least, but are the least
efficient.

Didier

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com
[mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Harris
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 4:23 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

NeonJohn wrote:

Chuck Harris wrote:

I have several rooms that are lit exclusively with CFL's,

and I find

that for best life, I have to leave them on all the time.  That is
what EPA has found too!  CFL's may take less power for a given
illumination, but the owners leave them on far longer than
incandescent, and the net result is greater power

consumption overall.

Here's an interesting bit of opposite experience.  When I had a
restaurant, I had a walk-in freezer.  I wanted to know when the
compressor was running so I wired a light socket across the

compressor

contactor coil terminals and located it where I could see

it from the

dining room where I sat when not busy.

Having looked at the circuitry, I can't see any real reason
why cycling would be hard on the usual CFL.  The filaments
glow red the entire time they are on anyway, and the inverter
is a simple FET multivibrator.

I think the reason people leave them on longer than the
equivalent incandescent is CFL's take a while to ramp up to
full brilliance, and they reason that at 1/4 the power draw,
they are essentially free to run.

In any case, I know I leave them on longer than I would if
they were instant on... for real, and EPA has noticed that
others do the same.

I tried all sorts of light in that thing. Long life, rough

duty, pilot

light, none of them could stand the 2-3 times an hour

cycling.  Then I

installed a little 7 watt organ pipe CFL.  It lasted over 5

years and

was still going strong when I closed the restaurant.

Add that to the mandatory drop of mercury in each, and I

really can't

see how they can sell them at all.

Now Chuck, don't go getting all chemophobic on us now!

Me?  With my chemistry and nuke background?  Not likely!

I am just making a statement based on my observations of the
eco-hysteria the powers that be seem to exhibit.

I got two for "free" from my power company (They hid the

charge on my

bill, until the courts made them reverse it...) and

included with the

CFL's was an elaborate procedure for cleaning up a broken CFL.  It
involved opening all of the windows, and leaving the room for a
couple of hours, and then, with a gloved hand putting the

pieces on

newspaper, and folding the newspaper up and putting it in

a 1 gallon

zip lock baggie.  To clean up the broken bits, you are supposed to
vacuum the area with a fresh vacuum cleaner bag, and then put the
vacuum cleaner bag in a ziplock baggie, and take the

remains off to the hazardous waste disposal facility.

That's embarrassing to read, it's so stupid.  Like some meaningless
worship ceremony to mother Gaia or something.

That's why I am sharing.

Geez, there's less than 10 milligrams of merc in a "100 watt" CFL.
That is a harmless amount, especially considering that elemental
mercury is fairly harmless.

Yes, and no.  When mercury hits the ground, it splatters into
hundreds of miniballs of mercury.  When you walk on them,
they further fracture, and by the time you are done, you have
increased the surface area of the mini drop of mercury
greatly... probably thousands of times.  That increases the
mercury vapor emitted into the room.

Is it harmful?  Maybe.  Maybe not.

What'll they come up with next, HAZMAT team if you spill

some paint thinner?

As the laws are currently written, if you intentionally pour
any amount of gasoline, or paint thinner onto the ground you
are committing a crime.

-Chuck Harris


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe,
go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

According to the paper that was linked earlier, there are 3 types of fluorescent bulbs, some have no heater at all and are started with a high voltage pulse that causes accelerated damage. Those suffer from the most life reduction when cycled. Those with the always on heater suffer the least, but are the least efficient. Didier > -----Original Message----- > From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com > [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Harris > Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 4:23 PM > To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > > NeonJohn wrote: > > > > Chuck Harris wrote: > > > >> I have several rooms that are lit exclusively with CFL's, > and I find > >> that for best life, I have to leave them on all the time. That is > >> what EPA has found too! CFL's may take less power for a given > >> illumination, but the owners leave them on far longer than > >> incandescent, and the net result is greater power > consumption overall. > > > > Here's an interesting bit of opposite experience. When I had a > > restaurant, I had a walk-in freezer. I wanted to know when the > > compressor was running so I wired a light socket across the > compressor > > contactor coil terminals and located it where I could see > it from the > > dining room where I sat when not busy. > > Having looked at the circuitry, I can't see any real reason > why cycling would be hard on the usual CFL. The filaments > glow red the entire time they are on anyway, and the inverter > is a simple FET multivibrator. > > I think the reason people leave them on longer than the > equivalent incandescent is CFL's take a while to ramp up to > full brilliance, and they reason that at 1/4 the power draw, > they are essentially free to run. > > In any case, I know I leave them on longer than I would if > they were instant on... for real, and EPA has noticed that > others do the same. > > > I tried all sorts of light in that thing. Long life, rough > duty, pilot > > light, none of them could stand the 2-3 times an hour > cycling. Then I > > installed a little 7 watt organ pipe CFL. It lasted over 5 > years and > > was still going strong when I closed the restaurant. > > > >> Add that to the mandatory drop of mercury in each, and I > really can't > >> see how they can sell them at all. > > > > Now Chuck, don't go getting all chemophobic on us now! > > Me? With my chemistry and nuke background? Not likely! > > I am just making a statement based on my observations of the > eco-hysteria the powers that be seem to exhibit. > > >> I got two for "free" from my power company (They hid the > charge on my > >> bill, until the courts made them reverse it...) and > included with the > >> CFL's was an elaborate procedure for cleaning up a broken CFL. It > >> involved opening all of the windows, and leaving the room for a > >> couple of hours, and then, with a gloved hand putting the > pieces on > >> newspaper, and folding the newspaper up and putting it in > a 1 gallon > >> zip lock baggie. To clean up the broken bits, you are supposed to > >> vacuum the area with a fresh vacuum cleaner bag, and then put the > >> vacuum cleaner bag in a ziplock baggie, and take the > remains off to the hazardous waste disposal facility. > > > > That's embarrassing to read, it's so stupid. Like some meaningless > > worship ceremony to mother Gaia or something. > > That's why I am sharing. > > > Geez, there's less than 10 milligrams of merc in a "100 watt" CFL. > > That is a harmless amount, especially considering that elemental > > mercury is fairly harmless. > > Yes, and no. When mercury hits the ground, it splatters into > hundreds of miniballs of mercury. When you walk on them, > they further fracture, and by the time you are done, you have > increased the surface area of the mini drop of mercury > greatly... probably thousands of times. That increases the > mercury vapor emitted into the room. > > Is it harmful? Maybe. Maybe not. > > > What'll they come up with next, HAZMAT team if you spill > some paint thinner? > > As the laws are currently written, if you intentionally pour > any amount of gasoline, or paint thinner onto the ground you > are committing a crime. > > -Chuck Harris > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, > go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >
JF
J. Forster
Sun, Jan 31, 2010 3:36 AM

It's NOT "flowers" it "flour" of sulphur...  as in a fine ground powder...
think wheat flour as is used to bake bread.

-John

===============

If one is paranoid about mercury spills sprinkling the debris with
flowers of sulphur is a good idea especially if one intends to
repeatedly break CFLs in the same location.

Bruce


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
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and follow the instructions there.

It's NOT "flowers" it "flour" of sulphur... as in a fine ground powder... think wheat flour as is used to bake bread. -John =============== > > If one is paranoid about mercury spills sprinkling the debris with > flowers of sulphur is a good idea especially if one intends to > repeatedly break CFLs in the same location. > > Bruce > > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > >
JF
J. Forster
Sun, Jan 31, 2010 3:39 AM

Frankly, I think today if you breathe, pee, poo, or do ANYTHING at all you
are likely breaking some law, silly or otherwise.

FWIW,
-John

===========

[snip]

As the laws are currently written, if you intentionally pour any amount

of gasoline, or paint thinner onto the ground you are committing a
crime.

-Chuck Harris

Frankly, I think today if you breathe, pee, poo, or do ANYTHING at all you are likely breaking some law, silly or otherwise. FWIW, -John =========== [snip] > As the laws are currently written, if you intentionally pour any amount of gasoline, or paint thinner onto the ground you are committing a crime. > > -Chuck Harris
BG
Bruce Griffiths
Sun, Jan 31, 2010 3:53 AM

It is known (for whatever reason) as flowers of sulphur by gardeners
medical practitioners (althernative and conventional) and others outside
the US.
http://www.websters-online-dictionary.org/fl/flower+of+sulphur.html

http://mysite.du.edu/~jcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm
http://mysite.du.edu/%7Ejcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm

It is a powder produced by sublimation of sulphur.

Bruce

J. Forster wrote:

It's NOT "flowers" it "flour" of sulphur...  as in a fine ground powder...
think wheat flour as is used to bake bread.

-John

===============

If one is paranoid about mercury spills sprinkling the debris with
flowers of sulphur is a good idea especially if one intends to
repeatedly break CFLs in the same location.

Bruce


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

It is known (for whatever reason) as flowers of sulphur by gardeners medical practitioners (althernative and conventional) and others outside the US. http://www.websters-online-dictionary.org/fl/flower+of+sulphur.html http://mysite.du.edu/~jcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm <http://mysite.du.edu/%7Ejcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm> It is a powder produced by sublimation of sulphur. Bruce J. Forster wrote: > It's NOT "flowers" it "flour" of sulphur... as in a fine ground powder... > think wheat flour as is used to bake bread. > > -John > > =============== > > >> If one is paranoid about mercury spills sprinkling the debris with >> flowers of sulphur is a good idea especially if one intends to >> repeatedly break CFLs in the same location. >> >> Bruce >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > >
JF
J. Forster
Sun, Jan 31, 2010 4:04 AM

Among chemists, it's flour of sulpher. Flowers is an (incorrect & archeic)
popular name, like quicksilver.

-John

===========

It is known (for whatever reason) as flowers of sulphur by gardeners
medical practitioners (althernative and conventional) and others outside
the US.
http://www.websters-online-dictionary.org/fl/flower+of+sulphur.html

http://mysite.du.edu/~jcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm
http://mysite.du.edu/%7Ejcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm

It is a powder produced by sublimation of sulphur.

Bruce

J. Forster wrote:

It's NOT "flowers" it "flour" of sulphur...  as in a fine ground
powder...
think wheat flour as is used to bake bread.

-John

===============

If one is paranoid about mercury spills sprinkling the debris with
flowers of sulphur is a good idea especially if one intends to
repeatedly break CFLs in the same location.

Bruce


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
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and follow the instructions there.

Among chemists, it's flour of sulpher. Flowers is an (incorrect & archeic) popular name, like quicksilver. -John =========== > It is known (for whatever reason) as flowers of sulphur by gardeners > medical practitioners (althernative and conventional) and others outside > the US. > http://www.websters-online-dictionary.org/fl/flower+of+sulphur.html > > http://mysite.du.edu/~jcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm > <http://mysite.du.edu/%7Ejcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm> > > It is a powder produced by sublimation of sulphur. > > Bruce > > J. Forster wrote: >> It's NOT "flowers" it "flour" of sulphur... as in a fine ground >> powder... >> think wheat flour as is used to bake bread. >> >> -John >> >> =============== >> >> >>> If one is paranoid about mercury spills sprinkling the debris with >>> flowers of sulphur is a good idea especially if one intends to >>> repeatedly break CFLs in the same location. >>> >>> Bruce >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to >>> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> >> > > >
BH
Bill Hawkins
Sun, Jan 31, 2010 5:14 AM

When did this list become a discussion of Chemistry?

Is there a time list I can join?

Not that I've never been off topic, or never learned something
from an OT discussion, but this brings to mind dead horses and
the beating thereof. I'll bet there is a better list for this
subject, and that it's just full of shared ignorance.

Bill Hawkins

-----Original Message-----
From: J. Forster
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 10:05 PM
To: Bruce Griffiths
Cc: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Among chemists, it's flour of sulpher. Flowers is an (incorrect & archeic)
popular name, like quicksilver.

-John

===========

It is known (for whatever reason) as flowers of sulphur by gardeners
medical practitioners (althernative and conventional) and others outside
the US.
http://www.websters-online-dictionary.org/fl/flower+of+sulphur.html

http://mysite.du.edu/~jcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm
http://mysite.du.edu/%7Ejcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm

It is a powder produced by sublimation of sulphur.

Bruce

J. Forster wrote:

It's NOT "flowers" it "flour" of sulphur...  as in a fine ground
powder...
think wheat flour as is used to bake bread.

-John

===============

If one is paranoid about mercury spills sprinkling the debris with
flowers of sulphur is a good idea especially if one intends to
repeatedly break CFLs in the same location.

Bruce


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


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To unsubscribe, go to
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When did this list become a discussion of Chemistry? Is there a time list I can join? Not that I've never been off topic, or never learned something from an OT discussion, but this brings to mind dead horses and the beating thereof. I'll bet there is a better list for this subject, and that it's just full of shared ignorance. Bill Hawkins -----Original Message----- From: J. Forster Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 10:05 PM To: Bruce Griffiths Cc: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material Among chemists, it's flour of sulpher. Flowers is an (incorrect & archeic) popular name, like quicksilver. -John =========== > It is known (for whatever reason) as flowers of sulphur by gardeners > medical practitioners (althernative and conventional) and others outside > the US. > http://www.websters-online-dictionary.org/fl/flower+of+sulphur.html > > http://mysite.du.edu/~jcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm > <http://mysite.du.edu/%7Ejcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm> > > It is a powder produced by sublimation of sulphur. > > Bruce > > J. Forster wrote: >> It's NOT "flowers" it "flour" of sulphur... as in a fine ground >> powder... >> think wheat flour as is used to bake bread. >> >> -John >> >> =============== >> >> >>> If one is paranoid about mercury spills sprinkling the debris with >>> flowers of sulphur is a good idea especially if one intends to >>> repeatedly break CFLs in the same location. >>> >>> Bruce >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to >>> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
DL
Don Latham
Sun, Jan 31, 2010 6:17 AM

The connection is alchemical,
Don

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Griffiths" bruce.griffiths@xtra.co.nz
To: jfor@quik.com; "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"
time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

It is known (for whatever reason) as flowers of sulphur by gardeners
medical practitioners (althernative and conventional) and others outside
the US.
http://www.websters-online-dictionary.org/fl/flower+of+sulphur.html

http://mysite.du.edu/~jcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm
http://mysite.du.edu/%7Ejcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm

It is a powder produced by sublimation of sulphur.

Bruce

J. Forster wrote:

It's NOT "flowers" it "flour" of sulphur...  as in a fine ground
powder...
think wheat flour as is used to bake bread.

-John

===============

If one is paranoid about mercury spills sprinkling the debris with
flowers of sulphur is a good idea especially if one intends to
repeatedly break CFLs in the same location.

Bruce


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The connection is alchemical, Don ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bruce Griffiths" <bruce.griffiths@xtra.co.nz> To: <jfor@quik.com>; "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 8:53 PM Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > It is known (for whatever reason) as flowers of sulphur by gardeners > medical practitioners (althernative and conventional) and others outside > the US. > http://www.websters-online-dictionary.org/fl/flower+of+sulphur.html > > http://mysite.du.edu/~jcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm > <http://mysite.du.edu/%7Ejcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm> > > It is a powder produced by sublimation of sulphur. > > Bruce > > J. Forster wrote: >> It's NOT "flowers" it "flour" of sulphur... as in a fine ground >> powder... >> think wheat flour as is used to bake bread. >> >> -John >> >> =============== >> >> >>> If one is paranoid about mercury spills sprinkling the debris with >>> flowers of sulphur is a good idea especially if one intends to >>> repeatedly break CFLs in the same location. >>> >>> Bruce >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to >>> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there.
CP
Charles P. Steinmetz
Sun, Jan 31, 2010 6:21 AM

Max wrote:

I remember hearing about a law suit in an engineering law class I
had to take way back when.  It seems a farmer had a long fence
running under and parallel to a high tension distribution line.  He
had hidden a copper line in it and was harvesting enough power to
operate most of his farm buildings. This amounted to a measurable
loss from the distribution line and the power company found him out
and sued.  The court ruled he had to pay for power used in the past
and stop getting his power that way.  Considering the source I don't
think this is an urban legend.

Both long wires running parallel to transmission lines and coils
situated under transformers were used "back in the day."  The power
companies' ability to detect small losses (hundreds of watts on a
line carrying megawatts) has always been much better than the average
person would think.  Well-established law (at least in the US) holds
that it is theft of services, although some folks think it should be otherwise.

I knew several people who lit outbuildings with fluorescent tubes
powered from wires strung in the near field of a 50 kW AM radio
station I once worked for.  The closest farmers had to take
precautions putting up wire fences (limiting the continuous length
and grounding at intervals), without which they could give you a nasty RF burn.

Best regards,

Charles

Max wrote: >I remember hearing about a law suit in an engineering law class I >had to take way back when. It seems a farmer had a long fence >running under and parallel to a high tension distribution line. He >had hidden a copper line in it and was harvesting enough power to >operate most of his farm buildings. This amounted to a measurable >loss from the distribution line and the power company found him out >and sued. The court ruled he had to pay for power used in the past >and stop getting his power that way. Considering the source I don't >think this is an urban legend. Both long wires running parallel to transmission lines and coils situated under transformers were used "back in the day." The power companies' ability to detect small losses (hundreds of watts on a line carrying megawatts) has always been much better than the average person would think. Well-established law (at least in the US) holds that it is theft of services, although some folks think it should be otherwise. I knew several people who lit outbuildings with fluorescent tubes powered from wires strung in the near field of a 50 kW AM radio station I once worked for. The closest farmers had to take precautions putting up wire fences (limiting the continuous length and grounding at intervals), without which they could give you a nasty RF burn. Best regards, Charles
DD
Dr. David Kirkby
Sun, Jan 31, 2010 8:29 AM

Max Robinson wrote:

I remember hearing about a law suit in an engineering law class I had to
take way back when.  It seems a farmer had a long fence running under
and parallel to a high tension distribution line.  He had hidden a
copper line in it and was harvesting enough power to operate most of his
farm buildings. This amounted to a measurable loss from the distribution
line and the power company found him out and sued.  The court ruled he
had to pay for power used in the past and stop getting his power that
way.  Considering the source I don't think this is an urban legend.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

It sounds a bit of a myth to me. I've never done the maths, but I doubt you
could get a lot of power from a wire like this. To power most of his farm
machinery would need many kW.

On the very high power lines, they tend to be location very high, in which case
I would have thought the fields should cancel at long distances, as there will
be 3 out of phase currents.

I think for lighting, you might be able to claim you did it to reduce the
E-field at your house, as you were worried by the health effects. Sine you need
to dump the power somewhere, a light bulb seemed the cheapest dummy load. A 100
W light bulb is a lot cheaper than a 100 W resistor!

On a similar note, I heard about someone who powered his greenhouse by using the
small voltage between neutral and earth that will exist. I know there is at
least 30 mA available at my house, as shorting neutral to earth will trip a 30
mA RCD. But I measured the voltage once, and whilst I can't recall what it was,
it was less than 1 Volt.

Dave

Max Robinson wrote: > I remember hearing about a law suit in an engineering law class I had to > take way back when. It seems a farmer had a long fence running under > and parallel to a high tension distribution line. He had hidden a > copper line in it and was harvesting enough power to operate most of his > farm buildings. This amounted to a measurable loss from the distribution > line and the power company found him out and sued. The court ruled he > had to pay for power used in the past and stop getting his power that > way. Considering the source I don't think this is an urban legend. > > Regards. > > Max. K 4 O D S. It sounds a bit of a myth to me. I've never done the maths, but I doubt you could get a lot of power from a wire like this. To power most of his farm machinery would need many kW. On the very high power lines, they tend to be location very high, in which case I would have thought the fields should cancel at long distances, as there will be 3 out of phase currents. I think for lighting, you might be able to claim you did it to reduce the E-field at your house, as you were worried by the health effects. Sine you need to dump the power somewhere, a light bulb seemed the cheapest dummy load. A 100 W light bulb is a lot cheaper than a 100 W resistor! On a similar note, I heard about someone who powered his greenhouse by using the small voltage between neutral and earth that will exist. I know there is at least 30 mA available at my house, as shorting neutral to earth will trip a 30 mA RCD. But I measured the voltage once, and whilst I can't recall what it was, it was less than 1 Volt. Dave
SR
Steve Rooke
Sun, Jan 31, 2010 9:19 AM

Not wishing to push this O/T thread more O/T but coming from England,
and now in New Zealand, we have these sodium streetlights which I
think are a pain in the neck. They have only two narrow spectra of
yellow light and although they produce light it makes it hard, if not
impossible, to make out colours. I wonder if they are being used in
other members countries?

Steve

2010/1/31 Dave Martindale dave.martindale@gmail.com:

If you care about accurate colour rendering, stick with incandescent,
preferably halogen.  "White" LEDs are actually blue LEDs coated with a
phosphor that absorbs some of the blue light and emits approximately yellow
instead.  If you look at the spectrum, you'll see a broad yellow peak and a
narrower blue peak.  Your eyes see it as approximately white, but it's
deficient in red and green compared to a black body emitter like hot
tungsten.  On the other hand, it's not as spiky as the output of
fluorescents.

--
Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD
A man with one clock knows what time it is;
A man with two clocks is never quite sure.

Not wishing to push this O/T thread more O/T but coming from England, and now in New Zealand, we have these sodium streetlights which I think are a pain in the neck. They have only two narrow spectra of yellow light and although they produce light it makes it hard, if not impossible, to make out colours. I wonder if they are being used in other members countries? Steve 2010/1/31 Dave Martindale <dave.martindale@gmail.com>: > If you care about accurate colour rendering, stick with incandescent, > preferably halogen.  "White" LEDs are actually blue LEDs coated with a > phosphor that absorbs some of the blue light and emits approximately yellow > instead.  If you look at the spectrum, you'll see a broad yellow peak and a > narrower blue peak.  Your eyes see it as approximately white, but it's > deficient in red and green compared to a black body emitter like hot > tungsten.  On the other hand, it's not as spiky as the output of > fluorescents. -- Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD A man with one clock knows what time it is; A man with two clocks is never quite sure.
RA
Robert Atkinson
Sun, Jan 31, 2010 11:34 AM

Hi Steve,They do use them in the USA.The advantages are,1 High efficiency2 Better visibility in rain and fog. As there is only one main colour you do not get diffraction rainbows.3 Kind to astronomers. A simple narrow stop band optical filter allows astronomers to remove the light pollution. In some areas around observatories they are mandated by local planning regulations.
These are considered to outweigh the disadvantage of no colour rendition.
Robert G8RPI.  

--- On Sun, 31/1/10, Steve Rooke sar10538@gmail.com wrote:

From: Steve Rooke sar10538@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Date: Sunday, 31 January, 2010, 9:19

Not wishing to push this O/T thread more O/T but coming from England,
and now in New Zealand, we have these sodium streetlights which I
think are a pain in the neck. They have only two narrow spectra of
yellow light and although they produce light it makes it hard, if not
impossible, to make out colours. I wonder if they are being used in
other members countries?

Steve

2010/1/31 Dave Martindale dave.martindale@gmail.com:

If you care about accurate colour rendering, stick with incandescent,
preferably halogen.  "White" LEDs are actually blue LEDs coated with a
phosphor that absorbs some of the blue light and emits approximately yellow
instead.  If you look at the spectrum, you'll see a broad yellow peak and a
narrower blue peak.  Your eyes see it as approximately white, but it's
deficient in red and green compared to a black body emitter like hot
tungsten.  On the other hand, it's not as spiky as the output of
fluorescents.

--
Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD
A man with one clock knows what time it is;
A man with two clocks is never quite sure.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Hi Steve,They do use them in the USA.The advantages are,1 High efficiency2 Better visibility in rain and fog. As there is only one main colour you do not get diffraction rainbows.3 Kind to astronomers. A simple narrow stop band optical filter allows astronomers to remove the light pollution. In some areas around observatories they are mandated by local planning regulations. These are considered to outweigh the disadvantage of no colour rendition. Robert G8RPI.   --- On Sun, 31/1/10, Steve Rooke <sar10538@gmail.com> wrote: From: Steve Rooke <sar10538@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> Date: Sunday, 31 January, 2010, 9:19 Not wishing to push this O/T thread more O/T but coming from England, and now in New Zealand, we have these sodium streetlights which I think are a pain in the neck. They have only two narrow spectra of yellow light and although they produce light it makes it hard, if not impossible, to make out colours. I wonder if they are being used in other members countries? Steve 2010/1/31 Dave Martindale <dave.martindale@gmail.com>: > If you care about accurate colour rendering, stick with incandescent, > preferably halogen.  "White" LEDs are actually blue LEDs coated with a > phosphor that absorbs some of the blue light and emits approximately yellow > instead.  If you look at the spectrum, you'll see a broad yellow peak and a > narrower blue peak.  Your eyes see it as approximately white, but it's > deficient in red and green compared to a black body emitter like hot > tungsten.  On the other hand, it's not as spiky as the output of > fluorescents. -- Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD A man with one clock knows what time it is; A man with two clocks is never quite sure. _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
DJ
Didier Juges
Sun, Jan 31, 2010 1:19 PM

In France, it is known as "fleur de souffre", which translates litterally to
"flower of sulphur". In French, there is no confusion possible between the
terms flower (fleur) and flour (farine).

Didier

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com
[mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of J. Forster
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 10:05 PM
To: Bruce Griffiths
Cc: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

Among chemists, it's flour of sulpher. Flowers is an
(incorrect & archeic) popular name, like quicksilver.

-John

===========

It is known (for whatever reason) as flowers of sulphur by

gardeners

medical practitioners (althernative and conventional) and others
outside the US.
http://www.websters-online-dictionary.org/fl/flower+of+sulphur.html

http://mysite.du.edu/~jcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm
http://mysite.du.edu/%7Ejcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm

It is a powder produced by sublimation of sulphur.

Bruce

In France, it is known as "fleur de souffre", which translates litterally to "flower of sulphur". In French, there is no confusion possible between the terms flower (fleur) and flour (farine). Didier > -----Original Message----- > From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com > [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of J. Forster > Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 10:05 PM > To: Bruce Griffiths > Cc: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > > Among chemists, it's flour of sulpher. Flowers is an > (incorrect & archeic) popular name, like quicksilver. > > -John > > =========== > > > It is known (for whatever reason) as flowers of sulphur by > gardeners > > medical practitioners (althernative and conventional) and others > > outside the US. > > http://www.websters-online-dictionary.org/fl/flower+of+sulphur.html > > > > http://mysite.du.edu/~jcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm > > <http://mysite.du.edu/%7Ejcalvert/phys/sulphur.htm> > > > > It is a powder produced by sublimation of sulphur. > > > > Bruce > >
CH
Chuck Harris
Sun, Jan 31, 2010 3:08 PM

In my 1963 EH Sargent and Company catalog, they list:

Sulfur, USP, Precipitated Powder
Sulfur, NF Sublimed Powder
Sulfur, Sublimed Flowers (Tech)
Sulfur, Lump (Roll)

And something about Seconds, NIST Grade...

-Chuck Harris

Don Latham wrote:

The connection is alchemical,
Don

----- Original Message ----- From: "Bruce Griffiths"
bruce.griffiths@xtra.co.nz
To: jfor@quik.com; "Discussion of precise time and frequency
measurement" time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material

It is known (for whatever reason) as flowers of sulphur by gardeners
medical practitioners (althernative and conventional) and others
outside the US.
http://www.websters-online-dictionary.org/fl/flower+of+sulphur.html

In my 1963 EH Sargent and Company catalog, they list: Sulfur, USP, Precipitated Powder Sulfur, NF Sublimed Powder Sulfur, Sublimed Flowers (Tech) Sulfur, Lump (Roll) And something about Seconds, NIST Grade... -Chuck Harris Don Latham wrote: > The connection is alchemical, > Don > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bruce Griffiths" > <bruce.griffiths@xtra.co.nz> > To: <jfor@quik.com>; "Discussion of precise time and frequency > measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com> > Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 8:53 PM > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Conducting Bench Top Material > > >> It is known (for whatever reason) as flowers of sulphur by gardeners >> medical practitioners (althernative and conventional) and others >> outside the US. >> http://www.websters-online-dictionary.org/fl/flower+of+sulphur.html
MD
Magnus Danielson
Sun, Jan 31, 2010 3:10 PM

Steve Rooke wrote:

Not wishing to push this O/T thread more O/T but coming from England,
and now in New Zealand, we have these sodium streetlights which I
think are a pain in the neck. They have only two narrow spectra of
yellow light and although they produce light it makes it hard, if not
impossible, to make out colours. I wonder if they are being used in
other members countries?

Sweden has them. It's the classical sodium D1 and D2 lines. Kind of neat
that one can calibrate ones spectrometer by the highway. :)

I think white is becoming more popular now.

Cheers,
Magnus

Steve Rooke wrote: > Not wishing to push this O/T thread more O/T but coming from England, > and now in New Zealand, we have these sodium streetlights which I > think are a pain in the neck. They have only two narrow spectra of > yellow light and although they produce light it makes it hard, if not > impossible, to make out colours. I wonder if they are being used in > other members countries? Sweden has them. It's the classical sodium D1 and D2 lines. Kind of neat that one can calibrate ones spectrometer by the highway. :) I think white is becoming more popular now. Cheers, Magnus
JF
J. Forster
Sun, Jan 31, 2010 3:57 PM

I believe that it is possible to light a fluorescent tube, at least
dimly, by standing on the ground under a power transmission line
operating at more than 100 kV , holding one end of the tube in your
hand, and sticking the other end up in the air.  I have never done
this, exactly, but I have held a fluorescent tube near a ham antenna
and seen it light, and on the web I have seen photos of people doing
it under electric utility lines.

Of course I have seen fluorescent tubes light near Van de Graaff
generators and Tesla coils.  We all have.  However, such machines
generate E-fields much stronger than you'll find near ground level
under an electric utility line.

I do not believe that one could get a fluorescent tube to light by
holding it near ground level under an 11-kV line.  But this is just my
gut feeling.  I could certainly be wrong.  I have not done the
experiment; nor have I done a calculation of the expected field
strength.

The story of a farmer drawing enough power "to operate most of his
farm buildings" from a wire running under and parallel to a HV line
sounds like an urban legend to me.  As does the story of a "guy that
had a big coil of wire in the roof of his shed and... could light a
100W incandescent bulb from the stray fields."  It's hard to draw
significant power from the field surrounding a power line because a
huge reactance must be tuned out.  If it were easy, then power-
transmission companies would be dissipating substantial and
economically intolerable amounts of power in the ground, which has
non-negligible conductivity.

During my summer working in the engineering department of a Bell
System operating company, I personally observed examples of 60-Hz AC
e.m.f. induced longitudinally in telephone cables running for miles
along rural pole lines, directly under 60-Hz power lines.  It was not
unusual to see an induced e.m.f. of the order of 100 V RMS.  A person
could get a painful shock from this voltage.  However, a human is a
pretty high-resistance load.  You could not draw watts of power from
such a source.  The Thevenin equivalent source impedance was too high.

BTW, it is necessary to distinguish induced e.m.f. from a potential
difference between separated points on the surface of the ground due
to resistance in the ground multiplied by conduction current in
the ground.  Conduction current in the ground arises whenever less
than 100% of the current flowing in a single-phase power line, or the
common-mode current in a three-phase line, does not return through the
neutral wire/cable of the line.  In rural areas where most of the
loads are single-phase, and a three-phase line is tapped for single-
phase loads separated by miles or more, it is not unusual to find very
high ground currents.  I remember observing symptoms of high ground
currents also near electric railroad lines.  As electric locomotive
such as the Pennsylvania RR's GG-1 drew single-phase 25-Hz current
from an overhead wire and returned it through the rails; but a
significant fraction of the return current flowed through the ground,
because the rails were connected to driven "ground" rods, presumably
for safety.  Trolley cars on the streets of Baltimore ran on DC, and
did the same thing.  Some of the ground current would find its way via
safety-ground rods through the neutral wires of the 60-Hz electric
utility.  When this DC flowed through the windings of 60-Hz power
transformers, it partially saturated the transformer cores, causing
waveform distortion, so that 60-Hz harmonics were heard in
neighborhood telephones.

The notion of "ground" as one big equipotential surface, an infinite
sink for charge / current, is a mass delusion.  It's a delusion for DC
and low-frequency AC.  For RF, it is so wrong that words fail me.

-John

===============

I remember hearing about a law suit in an engineering law class I
had to
take way back when.  It seems a farmer had a long fence running
under and
parallel to a high tension distribution line.  He had hidden a
copper line
in it and was harvesting enough power to operate most of his farm
buildings.
This amounted to a measurable loss from the distribution line and the
power
company found him out and sued.  The court ruled he had to pay for
power
used in the past and stop getting his power that way.  Considering
the
source I don't think this is an urban legend.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: max@maxsmusicplace.com

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
funwithtransistors-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
funwithtubes-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Harris" cfharris@erols.com
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"
time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] White LED's

Dr. David Kirkby wrote:

I should have added, it carried on glowing for some time after I
got
home too. At that point, I was well away from the train lines,
though
we
do have 11 kV overhead cables around 30m from the house. It
eventually
stopped glowing so I assume it was the presence of the overhead
train
lines which caused this.

When I was a kid, there was a main set of high tension power lines
several
hundred yards from my house.  I had friends that had garden sheds
under
the
towers that were lit by fluorescent lamps collecting the stray
fields.
A
piece of wire on each end of the bulb enhanced the effect.

I knew of one guy that had a big coil of wire in the roof of his
shed
and he could light a 100W incandescent bulb from the stray fields.

-Chuck Harris

Max Robinson wrote:

I remember hearing about a law suit in an engineering law class I had to
take way back when.  It seems a farmer had a long fence running under
and parallel to a high tension distribution line.  He had hidden a
copper line in it and was harvesting enough power to operate most of his
farm buildings. This amounted to a measurable loss from the distribution
line and the power company found him out and sued.  The court ruled he
had to pay for power used in the past and stop getting his power that
way.  Considering the source I don't think this is an urban legend.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

It sounds a bit of a myth to me. I've never done the maths, but I doubt
you
could get a lot of power from a wire like this. To power most of his farm
machinery would need many kW.

On the very high power lines, they tend to be location very high, in which
case
I would have thought the fields should cancel at long distances, as there
will
be 3 out of phase currents.

I think for lighting, you might be able to claim you did it to reduce the
E-field at your house, as you were worried by the health effects. Sine you
need
to dump the power somewhere, a light bulb seemed the cheapest dummy load.
A 100
W light bulb is a lot cheaper than a 100 W resistor!

On a similar note, I heard about someone who powered his greenhouse by
using the
small voltage between neutral and earth that will exist. I know there is
at
least 30 mA available at my house, as shorting neutral to earth will trip
a 30
mA RCD. But I measured the voltage once, and whilst I can't recall what it
was,
it was less than 1 Volt.

Dave


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I believe that it is possible to light a fluorescent tube, at least dimly, by standing on the ground under a power transmission line operating at more than 100 kV , holding one end of the tube in your hand, and sticking the other end up in the air. I have never done _this_, exactly, but I have held a fluorescent tube near a ham antenna and seen it light, and on the web I have seen photos of people doing it under electric utility lines. Of course I have seen fluorescent tubes light near Van de Graaff generators and Tesla coils. We all have. However, such machines generate E-fields much stronger than you'll find near ground level under an electric utility line. I do _not_ believe that one could get a fluorescent tube to light by holding it near ground level under an 11-kV line. But this is just my gut feeling. I could certainly be wrong. I have not done the experiment; nor have I done a calculation of the expected field strength. The story of a farmer drawing enough power "to operate most of his farm buildings" from a wire running under and parallel to a HV line sounds like an urban legend to me. As does the story of a "guy that had a big coil of wire in the roof of his shed and... could light a 100W incandescent bulb from the stray fields." It's _hard_ to draw significant power from the field surrounding a power line because a huge reactance must be tuned out. If it were easy, then power- transmission companies would be dissipating substantial and economically intolerable amounts of power in the _ground_, which has non-negligible conductivity. During my summer working in the engineering department of a Bell System operating company, I personally observed examples of 60-Hz AC e.m.f. induced longitudinally in telephone cables running for miles along rural pole lines, directly under 60-Hz power lines. It was not unusual to see an induced e.m.f. of the order of 100 V RMS. A person could get a painful shock from this voltage. However, a human is a pretty high-resistance load. You could _not_ draw watts of power from such a source. The Thevenin equivalent source impedance was too high. BTW, it is necessary to distinguish induced e.m.f. from a potential difference between separated points on the surface of the ground due to _resistance_ in the ground multiplied by _conduction_ current in the ground. Conduction current in the ground arises whenever less than 100% of the current flowing in a single-phase power line, or the common-mode current in a three-phase line, does not return through the neutral wire/cable of the line. In rural areas where most of the loads are single-phase, and a three-phase line is tapped for single- phase loads separated by miles or more, it is not unusual to find very high ground currents. I remember observing symptoms of high ground currents also near electric railroad lines. As electric locomotive such as the Pennsylvania RR's GG-1 drew single-phase 25-Hz current from an overhead wire and returned it through the rails; but a significant fraction of the return current flowed through the ground, because the rails were connected to driven "ground" rods, presumably for safety. Trolley cars on the streets of Baltimore ran on DC, and did the same thing. Some of the ground current would find its way via safety-ground rods through the neutral wires of the 60-Hz electric utility. When this DC flowed through the windings of 60-Hz power transformers, it partially saturated the transformer cores, causing waveform distortion, so that 60-Hz harmonics were heard in neighborhood telephones. The notion of "ground" as one big equipotential surface, an infinite sink for charge / current, is a mass delusion. It's a delusion for DC and low-frequency AC. For RF, it is so wrong that words fail me. -John > =============== > >> I remember hearing about a law suit in an engineering law class I >> had to >> take way back when. It seems a farmer had a long fence running >> under and >> parallel to a high tension distribution line. He had hidden a >> copper line >> in it and was harvesting enough power to operate most of his farm >> buildings. >> This amounted to a measurable loss from the distribution line and the >> power >> company found him out and sued. The court ruled he had to pay for >> power >> used in the past and stop getting his power that way. Considering >> the >> source I don't think this is an urban legend. >> >> Regards. >> >> Max. K 4 O D S. >> >> Email: max@maxsmusicplace.com >> >> Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net >> Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net >> Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com >> >> To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. >> funwithtransistors-subscribe@yahoogroups.com >> >> To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, >> funwithtubes-subscribe@yahoogroups.com >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Chuck Harris" <cfharris@erols.com> >> To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" >> <time-nuts@febo.com> >> Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 12:21 PM >> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] White LED's >> >> >>> Dr. David Kirkby wrote: >>> >>>> I should have added, it carried on glowing for some time after I >>>> got >>>> home too. At that point, I was well away from the train lines, >>>> though >>>> we >>>> do have 11 kV overhead cables around 30m from the house. It >>>> eventually >>>> stopped glowing so I assume it was the presence of the overhead >>>> train >>>> lines which caused this. >>> >>> When I was a kid, there was a main set of high tension power lines >>> several >>> hundred yards from my house. I had friends that had garden sheds >>> under >>> the >>> towers that were lit by fluorescent lamps collecting the stray >>> fields. >>> A >>> piece of wire on each end of the bulb enhanced the effect. >>> >>> I knew of one guy that had a big coil of wire in the roof of his >>> shed >>> and he could light a 100W incandescent bulb from the stray fields. >>> >>> -Chuck Harris > Max Robinson wrote: >> I remember hearing about a law suit in an engineering law class I had to >> take way back when. It seems a farmer had a long fence running under >> and parallel to a high tension distribution line. He had hidden a >> copper line in it and was harvesting enough power to operate most of his >> farm buildings. This amounted to a measurable loss from the distribution >> line and the power company found him out and sued. The court ruled he >> had to pay for power used in the past and stop getting his power that >> way. Considering the source I don't think this is an urban legend. >> >> Regards. >> >> Max. K 4 O D S. > > It sounds a bit of a myth to me. I've never done the maths, but I doubt > you > could get a lot of power from a wire like this. To power most of his farm > machinery would need many kW. > > On the very high power lines, they tend to be location very high, in which > case > I would have thought the fields should cancel at long distances, as there > will > be 3 out of phase currents. > > I think for lighting, you might be able to claim you did it to reduce the > E-field at your house, as you were worried by the health effects. Sine you > need > to dump the power somewhere, a light bulb seemed the cheapest dummy load. > A 100 > W light bulb is a lot cheaper than a 100 W resistor! > > On a similar note, I heard about someone who powered his greenhouse by > using the > small voltage between neutral and earth that will exist. I know there is > at > least 30 mA available at my house, as shorting neutral to earth will trip > a 30 > mA RCD. But I measured the voltage once, and whilst I can't recall what it > was, > it was less than 1 Volt. > > Dave > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > >
DS
d.seiter@comcast.net
Mon, Feb 1, 2010 12:42 AM

I hate the yellow lamps in my area because they are only found in certain vicinities. You're driving along at night, maybe searching for something, and suddenly one of the "street lamps" turns red! It's happened to me a few times...

Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Atkinson" <robert8rpi@yahoo.co. uk >
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@ febo .com>
Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 4:34:23 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp

Hi Steve,They do use them in the USA.The advantages are,1 High efficiency2 Better visibility in rain and fog. As there is only one main colour you do not get diffraction rainbows.3 Kind to astronomers. A simple narrow stop band optical filter allows astronomers to remove the light pollution. In some areas around observatories they are mandated by local planning regulations.
These are considered to outweigh the disadvantage of no colour rendition.
Robert G8RPI.

--- On Sun, 31/1/10, Steve Rooke <sar10538@ gmail .com> wrote:

From: Steve Rooke <sar10538@ gmail .com>
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@ febo .com>
Date: Sunday, 31 January, 2010, 9:19

Not wishing to push this O/T thread more O/T but coming from England,
and now in New Zealand , we have these sodium streetlights which I
think are a pain in the neck. They have only two narrow spectra of
yellow light and although they produce light it makes it hard, if not
impossible, to make out colours. I wonder if they are being used in
other members countries?

Steve

2010/1/31 Dave Martindale < dave . martindale @ gmail .com>:

If you care about accurate colour rendering, stick with incandescent,
preferably halogen. "White" LEDs are actually blue LEDs coated with a
phosphor that absorbs some of the blue light and emits approximately yellow
instead. If you look at the spectrum, you'll see a broad yellow peak and a
narrower blue peak. Your eyes see it as approximately white, but it's
deficient in red and green compared to a black body emitter like hot
tungsten. On the other hand, it's not as spiky as the output of
fluorescents .

--
Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD
A man with one clock knows what time it is;
A man with two clocks is never quite sure.


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and follow the instructions there.

I hate the yellow lamps in my area because they are only found in certain vicinities. You're driving along at night, maybe searching for something, and suddenly one of the "street lamps" turns red! It's happened to me a few times... Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Atkinson" <robert8rpi@yahoo.co. uk > To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@ febo .com> Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 4:34:23 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp Hi Steve,They do use them in the USA.The advantages are,1 High efficiency2 Better visibility in rain and fog. As there is only one main colour you do not get diffraction rainbows.3 Kind to astronomers. A simple narrow stop band optical filter allows astronomers to remove the light pollution. In some areas around observatories they are mandated by local planning regulations. These are considered to outweigh the disadvantage of no colour rendition. Robert G8RPI. --- On Sun, 31/1/10, Steve Rooke <sar10538@ gmail .com> wrote: From: Steve Rooke <sar10538@ gmail .com> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] [OT] Ikea Lamp To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" <time-nuts@ febo .com> Date: Sunday, 31 January, 2010, 9:19 Not wishing to push this O/T thread more O/T but coming from England, and now in New Zealand , we have these sodium streetlights which I think are a pain in the neck. They have only two narrow spectra of yellow light and although they produce light it makes it hard, if not impossible, to make out colours. I wonder if they are being used in other members countries? Steve 2010/1/31 Dave Martindale < dave . martindale @ gmail .com>: > If you care about accurate colour rendering, stick with incandescent, > preferably halogen. "White" LEDs are actually blue LEDs coated with a > phosphor that absorbs some of the blue light and emits approximately yellow > instead. If you look at the spectrum, you'll see a broad yellow peak and a > narrower blue peak. Your eyes see it as approximately white, but it's > deficient in red and green compared to a black body emitter like hot > tungsten. On the other hand, it's not as spiky as the output of > fluorescents . -- Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV & G8KVD A man with one clock knows what time it is; A man with two clocks is never quite sure. _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@ febo .com To unsubscribe , go to https :// www . febo .com/cgi-bin/mailman/ listinfo /time-nuts and follow the instructions there. _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@ febo .com To unsubscribe , go to https :// www . febo .com/cgi-bin/mailman/ listinfo /time-nuts and follow the instructions there.