time-nuts@lists.febo.com

Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement

View all threads

RE: [time-nuts] RE: HP 107BR

BC
Brooke Clarke
Thu, Sep 15, 2005 11:29 PM

Hi Chuck:

Is there a procedure in the manual for doing that?

Thanks,

Brooke

Chuck Harris wrote:

Hi Brooke,

I have a 107A/BR manual, that is out on loan for a
few days.  I'll make it available to you when it comes
back.

As to the 1KHz whine.  It can be improved a lot by the
simple act of cleaning the gears, and replacing the lubrication
in the ball bearings.  The motor gets louder the more heavily
it is loaded.

-Chuck

Brooke Clarke wrote:

HI Jeffrey:

I have the following equipment looking for manuals:
107BR
113AR
114BR
HO3 115BR

My 113AR ran for many years then quit.  I had it in the garage since
the 1 kc wine would drive you nuts if in the house.  Also it was
unbearable if the drawer was cracked open.  Best to have all the front
panel screws  installed and tight to contain the sound.  I had to
replace the photo interrupter and also added an input circuit so it
would take TTL level pulses.  But is sure is nice to see mechanical
hands.

Have Fun,

Brooke Clarke, N6GCE

Hi Chuck: Is there a procedure in the manual for doing that? Thanks, Brooke Chuck Harris wrote: > Hi Brooke, > > I have a 107A/BR manual, that is out on loan for a > few days. I'll make it available to you when it comes > back. > > As to the 1KHz whine. It can be improved a lot by the > simple act of cleaning the gears, and replacing the lubrication > in the ball bearings. The motor gets louder the more heavily > it is loaded. > > -Chuck > > Brooke Clarke wrote: > >> HI Jeffrey: >> >> I have the following equipment looking for manuals: >> 107BR >> 113AR >> 114BR >> HO3 115BR >> >> My 113AR ran for many years then quit. I had it in the garage since >> the 1 kc wine would drive you nuts if in the house. Also it was >> unbearable if the drawer was cracked open. Best to have all the front >> panel screws installed and tight to contain the sound. I had to >> replace the photo interrupter and also added an input circuit so it >> would take TTL level pulses. But is sure is nice to see mechanical >> hands. >> >> Have Fun, >> >> Brooke Clarke, N6GCE > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list > time-nuts@febo.com > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > > -- w/Java http://www.PRC68.com w/o Java http://www.pacificsites.com/~brooke/PRC68COM.shtml http://www.precisionclock.com
DF
David Forbes
Fri, Sep 16, 2005 12:00 AM

At 4:29 PM -0700 9/15/05, Brooke Clarke wrote:

Hi Chuck:

Is there a procedure in the manual for doing that?

Thanks,

Brooke

Brooke,

The 113BR manual does describe all sorts of cleaning and lubrication
work. It shows a little bottle of oil inside the unit that you're
supposed to use for the periodic lubrication that you've been doing
(I hope).

It sounds like there's interest in this manual and the 105A/B manual,
so I'll see about getting them scanned in soon. It goes pretty
quickly once I start with  ScanTastic's batch mode. Yes, I use a
vintage HP scanner.

--

--David Forbes, Tucson, AZ
http://www.cathodecorner.com/

At 4:29 PM -0700 9/15/05, Brooke Clarke wrote: >Hi Chuck: > >Is there a procedure in the manual for doing that? > >Thanks, > >Brooke Brooke, The 113BR manual does describe all sorts of cleaning and lubrication work. It shows a little bottle of oil inside the unit that you're supposed to use for the periodic lubrication that you've been doing (I hope). It sounds like there's interest in this manual and the 105A/B manual, so I'll see about getting them scanned in soon. It goes pretty quickly once I start with ScanTastic's batch mode. Yes, I use a vintage HP scanner. -- --David Forbes, Tucson, AZ http://www.cathodecorner.com/
JH
Jack Hudler
Fri, Sep 16, 2005 12:13 AM

That HP Cesium Beam Tube is back on eBay 7546697695

That HP Cesium Beam Tube is back on eBay 7546697695
CH
Chuck Harris
Fri, Sep 16, 2005 12:47 AM

Hi Brooke,

I don't have a manual for the 115BR, so I had to rely
on my inherent mechanical intuition... I had to
replace one ball bearing, and since it was an odd size,
I had to turn an adapter on my lathe.  I took apart all
of the other shielded ball bearings, and washed them down
in varsol to remove all the old waxy grease.  I then regreased
them with a thin white lithium grease.

There is a very important thing you must know
about the 115BR, and that is after setting the time,
you must run it through some motion.  If you set the
time too close to the flip over points, the odometer
will lock up, and explode!  I don't remember the exact
rules I worked out, but I found that if I turned the
motor by hand through several seconds, I could tell if
I had made what would be a fatal mistake under motor
drive.  Mine exploded once, and I got lucky that the
damage was repairable.

Hopefully, the 115 manual talks to this point.

-Chuck

Brooke Clarke wrote:

Hi Chuck:

Is there a procedure in the manual for doing that?

Thanks,

Brooke

Hi Brooke, I don't have a manual for the 115BR, so I had to rely on my inherent mechanical intuition... I had to replace one ball bearing, and since it was an odd size, I had to turn an adapter on my lathe. I took apart all of the other shielded ball bearings, and washed them down in varsol to remove all the old waxy grease. I then regreased them with a thin white lithium grease. There is a *very* important thing you must know about the 115BR, and that is after setting the time, you must run it through some motion. If you set the time too close to the flip over points, the odometer will lock up, and explode! I don't remember the exact rules I worked out, but I found that if I turned the motor by hand through several seconds, I could tell if I had made what would be a fatal mistake under motor drive. Mine exploded once, and I got lucky that the damage was repairable. Hopefully, the 115 manual talks to this point. -Chuck Brooke Clarke wrote: > Hi Chuck: > > Is there a procedure in the manual for doing that? > > Thanks, > > Brooke >
BH
Bill Hawkins
Fri, Sep 16, 2005 12:52 AM

Brooke,

My first 113 arrived dead. Found the fault and replaced one
of the two big electrolytics in the motor drive circuit. Is
that something you can do or would you like someone to fix it?

I've lubricated the gear mechanism (much simpler than an R-390)
but I figured the motor bearings were sealed and shot. Never
tried relubricating them. I kept the clock inside the same
insulated compartment as the oscillator because of the noise.

Bill Hawkins, BSME MIT 1960

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com]On
Behalf Of Brooke Clarke
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 3:01 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Other HP 10x manuals (was HP 107BR)

HI Jeffrey:

I have the following equipment looking for manuals:
107BR
113AR
114BR
HO3 115BR

My 113AR ran for many years then quit.  I had it in the garage since the
1 kc wine would drive you nuts if in the house.  Also it was unbearable
if the drawer was cracked open.  Best to have all the front panel screws
installed and tight to contain the sound.  I had to replace the photo
interrupter and also added an input circuit so it would take TTL level
pulses.  But is sure is nice to see mechanical hands.

Have Fun,

Brooke Clarke, N6GCE

w/Java http://www.PRC68.com
w/o Java http://www.pacificsites.com/~brooke/PRC68COM.shtml
http://www.precisionclock.com

Jeffrey Pawlan wrote:

I own the original manuals for the 106 series and the 107 series including

the

BR.

I have had my 107BR running in my lab for more than 15 years. It was

originally

owned and installed at Eimac in San Carlos, CA and ran there for many

decades.

I also have a manual that covers a slightly different mechanical

clock+divider

called the 115.

73,

Jeffrey Pawlan, WA6KBL

Brooke, My first 113 arrived dead. Found the fault and replaced one of the two big electrolytics in the motor drive circuit. Is that something you can do or would you like someone to fix it? I've lubricated the gear mechanism (much simpler than an R-390) but I figured the motor bearings were sealed and shot. Never tried relubricating them. I kept the clock inside the same insulated compartment as the oscillator because of the noise. Bill Hawkins, BSME MIT 1960 -----Original Message----- From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com]On Behalf Of Brooke Clarke Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 3:01 PM To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Other HP 10x manuals (was HP 107BR) HI Jeffrey: I have the following equipment looking for manuals: 107BR 113AR 114BR HO3 115BR My 113AR ran for many years then quit. I had it in the garage since the 1 kc wine would drive you nuts if in the house. Also it was unbearable if the drawer was cracked open. Best to have all the front panel screws installed and tight to contain the sound. I had to replace the photo interrupter and also added an input circuit so it would take TTL level pulses. But is sure is nice to see mechanical hands. Have Fun, Brooke Clarke, N6GCE -- w/Java http://www.PRC68.com w/o Java http://www.pacificsites.com/~brooke/PRC68COM.shtml http://www.precisionclock.com Jeffrey Pawlan wrote: > I own the original manuals for the 106 series and the 107 series including the > BR. > > I have had my 107BR running in my lab for more than 15 years. It was originally > owned and installed at Eimac in San Carlos, CA and ran there for many decades. > > I also have a manual that covers a slightly different mechanical clock+divider > called the 115. > > > 73, > > Jeffrey Pawlan, WA6KBL > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list time-nuts@febo.com https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts