PS
paul swed
Thu, Feb 11, 2021 7:18 PM
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. (Funny
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find over
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual and
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was lucky
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly 110
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from +/-
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. (Funny
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find over
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual and
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was lucky
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly 110
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from +/-
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
BK
Bob kb8tq
Thu, Feb 11, 2021 10:04 PM
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. (Funny
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find over
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual and
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was lucky
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly 110
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from +/-
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
and follow the instructions there.
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hello to the group.
> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. (Funny
> that its labeled 15a)
> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find over
> the years.
> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual and
> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using
> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was lucky
> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly 110
> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from +/-
> 12-15V.
> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
> Thank you
> Paul
> WB8TSL
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> and follow the instructions there.
PS
paul swed
Thu, Feb 11, 2021 10:55 PM
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23 do
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other clues
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. (Funny
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual and
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
and follow the instructions there.
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23 do
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other clues
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> Hi
>
> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
> doesn’t work.
>
> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
> (think of 85C upper end ….).
>
> Bob
>
> > On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hello to the group.
> > I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
> > Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. (Funny
> > that its labeled 15a)
> > Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find
> over
> > the years.
> > However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual and
> > schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using
> > voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was
> lucky
> > that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
> > That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly
> 110
> > degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from
> +/-
> > 12-15V.
> > Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
> > Thank you
> > Paul
> > WB8TSL
> > _______________________________________________
> > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> > To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> > and follow the instructions there.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> and follow the instructions there.
>
BK
Bob kb8tq
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 12:59 AM
Hi
Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough to
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end temperature on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
5 to 10C above that.
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23 do
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other clues
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. (Funny
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual and
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
and follow the instructions there.
Hi
Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough to
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end temperature on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
5 to 10C above that.
Bob
> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23 do
> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other clues
> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
> supports the 2 oven theory.
> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
> probe in.
> Thanks everyone.
> Paul
> WB8TSL
>
> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>
>> Hi
>>
>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
>> doesn’t work.
>>
>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
>> (think of 85C upper end ….).
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello to the group.
>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. (Funny
>>> that its labeled 15a)
>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find
>> over
>>> the years.
>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual and
>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using
>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was
>> lucky
>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly
>> 110
>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from
>> +/-
>>> 12-15V.
>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
>>> Thank you
>>> Paul
>>> WB8TSL
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> and follow the instructions there.
>>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> and follow the instructions there.
PS
paul swed
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 2:12 AM
50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could there
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast has
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough to
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end temperature
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
5 to 10C above that.
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23 do
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could there
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast has
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> Hi
>
> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough to
> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end temperature
> on
> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
> 5 to 10C above that.
>
> Bob
>
> > On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
> > Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
> > reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23 do
> > have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other
> clues
> > to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
> > supports the 2 oven theory.
> > Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
> > probe in.
> > Thanks everyone.
> > Paul
> > WB8TSL
> >
> > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> >
> >> Hi
> >>
> >> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
> >> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
> >> doesn’t work.
> >>
> >> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
> >> (think of 85C upper end ….).
> >>
> >> Bob
> >>
> >>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Hello to the group.
> >>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
> >>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
> (Funny
> >>> that its labeled 15a)
> >>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find
> >> over
> >>> the years.
> >>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual
> and
> >>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using
> >>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was
> >> lucky
> >>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
> >>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly
> >> 110
> >>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from
> >> +/-
> >>> 12-15V.
> >>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
> >>> Thank you
> >>> Paul
> >>> WB8TSL
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >> To unsubscribe, go to
> >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >> and follow the instructions there.
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> > To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> > and follow the instructions there.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> and follow the instructions there.
>
PA
Paul Alfille
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 3:05 AM
Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
Paul Alfille K1PHA
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could there
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast has
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough to
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end temperature
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
5 to 10C above that.
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
Paul Alfille K1PHA
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could there
> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast has
> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
> Thanks Bob
> Paul
> WB8TSL
>
> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>
> > Hi
> >
> > Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough to
> > run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end temperature
> > on
> > the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
> > 5 to 10C above that.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > > On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
> > > Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
> > > reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23
> do
> > > have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other
> > clues
> > > to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
> > > supports the 2 oven theory.
> > > Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
> > > probe in.
> > > Thanks everyone.
> > > Paul
> > > WB8TSL
> > >
> > > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> > >
> > >> Hi
> > >>
> > >> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
> > >> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
> > >> doesn’t work.
> > >>
> > >> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
> > >> (think of 85C upper end ….).
> > >>
> > >> Bob
> > >>
> > >>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> Hello to the group.
> > >>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
> > >>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
> > (Funny
> > >>> that its labeled 15a)
> > >>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
> find
> > >> over
> > >>> the years.
> > >>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual
> > and
> > >>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
> Using
> > >>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was
> > >> lucky
> > >>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
> > >>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
> exactly
> > >> 110
> > >>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply
> from
> > >> +/-
> > >>> 12-15V.
> > >>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
> > >>> Thank you
> > >>> Paul
> > >>> WB8TSL
> > >>> _______________________________________________
> > >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> > >>> To unsubscribe, go to
> > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> > >>> and follow the instructions there.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> _______________________________________________
> > >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> > >> To unsubscribe, go to
> > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> > >> and follow the instructions there.
> > >>
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> > > To unsubscribe, go to
> > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> > > and follow the instructions there.
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> > To unsubscribe, go to
> > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> > and follow the instructions there.
> >
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> and follow the instructions there.
>
PS
paul swed
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 2:22 PM
Paul
This is Paul to confuse the thread. I always thought the outer was cooler
also. Its becoming clear many things I have learned over the years might be
a bit off. I was thinking of looking at several other references that do
have documentation urq10 and 23. See what the maintenance documents say.
The good thing about military stuff is the manuals tend to have some good
details. Will see.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 10:39 PM Paul Alfille paul.alfille@gmail.com
wrote:
Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
Paul Alfille K1PHA
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could there
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
5 to 10C above that.
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
Paul
This is Paul to confuse the thread. I always thought the outer was cooler
also. Its becoming clear many things I have learned over the years might be
a bit off. I was thinking of looking at several other references that do
have documentation urq10 and 23. See what the maintenance documents say.
The good thing about military stuff is the manuals tend to have some good
details. Will see.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 10:39 PM Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
>
> Paul Alfille K1PHA
>
> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could there
> > have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast
> has
> > never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
> > Thanks Bob
> > Paul
> > WB8TSL
> >
> > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> >
> > > Hi
> > >
> > > Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough
> to
> > > run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
> temperature
> > > on
> > > the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
> > > 5 to 10C above that.
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > > > On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
> > > > Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am
> only
> > > > reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer
> URQ23
> > do
> > > > have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other
> > > clues
> > > > to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
> > > > supports the 2 oven theory.
> > > > Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put
> the
> > > > probe in.
> > > > Thanks everyone.
> > > > Paul
> > > > WB8TSL
> > > >
> > > > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> Hi
> > > >>
> > > >> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
> > > >> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
> > > >> doesn’t work.
> > > >>
> > > >> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
> > > >> (think of 85C upper end ….).
> > > >>
> > > >> Bob
> > > >>
> > > >>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Hello to the group.
> > > >>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
> > > >>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
> > > (Funny
> > > >>> that its labeled 15a)
> > > >>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
> > find
> > > >> over
> > > >>> the years.
> > > >>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
> manual
> > > and
> > > >>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
> > Using
> > > >>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I
> was
> > > >> lucky
> > > >>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
> > > >>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
> > exactly
> > > >> 110
> > > >>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply
> > from
> > > >> +/-
> > > >>> 12-15V.
> > > >>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
> > > >>> Thank you
> > > >>> Paul
> > > >>> WB8TSL
> > > >>> _______________________________________________
> > > >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> > > >>> To unsubscribe, go to
> > > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> > > >>> and follow the instructions there.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> _______________________________________________
> > > >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> > > >> To unsubscribe, go to
> > > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> > > >> and follow the instructions there.
> > > >>
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> > > > To unsubscribe, go to
> > > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> > > > and follow the instructions there.
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> > > To unsubscribe, go to
> > > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> > > and follow the instructions there.
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> > To unsubscribe, go to
> > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> > and follow the instructions there.
> >
> _______________________________________________
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> To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> and follow the instructions there.
>
BK
Bob kb8tq
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 3:12 PM
Hi
Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.
Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the crystal
being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.
Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner oven
components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the heater
is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex. You
do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have written
papers addressing that point :)
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille paul.alfille@gmail.com wrote:
Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
Paul Alfille K1PHA
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could there
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast has
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough to
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end temperature
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
5 to 10C above that.
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
Hi
Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.
Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the crystal
being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.
Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner oven
components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the heater
is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex. You
do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have* written
papers addressing that point :)
Bob
> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
>
> Paul Alfille K1PHA
>
> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could there
>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast has
>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
>> Thanks Bob
>> Paul
>> WB8TSL
>>
>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough to
>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end temperature
>>> on
>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
>>> 5 to 10C above that.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23
>> do
>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other
>>> clues
>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
>>>> supports the 2 oven theory.
>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
>>>> probe in.
>>>> Thanks everyone.
>>>> Paul
>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi
>>>>>
>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
>>>>> doesn’t work.
>>>>>
>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….).
>>>>>
>>>>> Bob
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hello to the group.
>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
>>> (Funny
>>>>>> that its labeled 15a)
>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
>> find
>>>>> over
>>>>>> the years.
>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual
>>> and
>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
>> Using
>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was
>>>>> lucky
>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
>> exactly
>>>>> 110
>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply
>> from
>>>>> +/-
>>>>>> 12-15V.
>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
>>>>>> Thank you
>>>>>> Paul
>>>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> and follow the instructions there.
>>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> and follow the instructions there.
PS
paul swed
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 3:14 PM
Bad news for me. None of the military manuals states the temperatures of
the inner and outer ovens. Pretty sure various HP manuals never did either.
Regards
Paul.
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 9:22 AM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Paul
This is Paul to confuse the thread. I always thought the outer was cooler
also. Its becoming clear many things I have learned over the years might be
a bit off. I was thinking of looking at several other references that do
have documentation urq10 and 23. See what the maintenance documents say.
The good thing about military stuff is the manuals tend to have some good
details. Will see.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 10:39 PM Paul Alfille paul.alfille@gmail.com
wrote:
Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
Paul Alfille K1PHA
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to
On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
Bad news for me. None of the military manuals states the temperatures of
the inner and outer ovens. Pretty sure various HP manuals never did either.
Regards
Paul.
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 9:22 AM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> Paul
> This is Paul to confuse the thread. I always thought the outer was cooler
> also. Its becoming clear many things I have learned over the years might be
> a bit off. I was thinking of looking at several other references that do
> have documentation urq10 and 23. See what the maintenance documents say.
> The good thing about military stuff is the manuals tend to have some good
> details. Will see.
> Paul
> WB8TSL
>
> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 10:39 PM Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
>>
>> Paul Alfille K1PHA
>>
>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
>> there
>> > have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast
>> has
>> > never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
>> > Thanks Bob
>> > Paul
>> > WB8TSL
>> >
>> > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>> >
>> > > Hi
>> > >
>> > > Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough
>> to
>> > > run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
>> temperature
>> > > on
>> > > the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to
>> be
>> > > 5 to 10C above that.
>> > >
>> > > Bob
>> > >
>> > > > On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
>> > > > Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am
>> only
>> > > > reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer
>> URQ23
>> > do
>> > > > have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no
>> other
>> > > clues
>> > > > to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
>> > > > supports the 2 oven theory.
>> > > > Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put
>> the
>> > > > probe in.
>> > > > Thanks everyone.
>> > > > Paul
>> > > > WB8TSL
>> > > >
>> > > > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > >> Hi
>> > > >>
>> > > >> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold
>> climate.
>> > > >> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven
>> just
>> > > >> doesn’t work.
>> > > >>
>> > > >> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
>> > > >> (think of 85C upper end ….).
>> > > >>
>> > > >> Bob
>> > > >>
>> > > >>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> > > >>>
>> > > >>> Hello to the group.
>> > > >>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
>> > > >>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
>> > > (Funny
>> > > >>> that its labeled 15a)
>> > > >>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
>> > find
>> > > >> over
>> > > >>> the years.
>> > > >>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
>> manual
>> > > and
>> > > >>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
>> > Using
>> > > >>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I
>> was
>> > > >> lucky
>> > > >>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
>> > > >>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
>> > exactly
>> > > >> 110
>> > > >>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply
>> > from
>> > > >> +/-
>> > > >>> 12-15V.
>> > > >>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
>> > > >>> Thank you
>> > > >>> Paul
>> > > >>> WB8TSL
>> > > >>> _______________________________________________
>> > > >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> > > >>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> > > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> > > >>> and follow the instructions there.
>> > > >>
>> > > >>
>> > > >> _______________________________________________
>> > > >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> > > >> To unsubscribe, go to
>> > > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> > > >> and follow the instructions there.
>> > > >>
>> > > > _______________________________________________
>> > > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> > > > To unsubscribe, go to
>> > > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> > > > and follow the instructions there.
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> > > To unsubscribe, go to
>> > > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> > > and follow the instructions there.
>> > >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> > To unsubscribe, go to
>> > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> > and follow the instructions there.
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> and follow the instructions there.
>>
>
PS
paul swed
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 3:29 PM
Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of the
outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It slowly
moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.
Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the crystal
being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.
Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner oven
components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the heater
is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex. You
do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have written
papers addressing that point :)
Bob
Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
Paul Alfille K1PHA
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
5 to 10C above that.
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of the
outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It slowly
moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> Hi
>
> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
>
> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
> issue.
>
> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
>
> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the crystal
> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.
>
> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner oven
> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the heater
> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex. You
> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
>
> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have* written
> papers addressing that point :)
>
> Bob
>
> > On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
> > warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
> >
> > Paul Alfille K1PHA
> >
> > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
> there
> >> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast
> has
> >> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
> >> Thanks Bob
> >> Paul
> >> WB8TSL
> >>
> >> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Hi
> >>>
> >>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough
> to
> >>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
> temperature
> >>> on
> >>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
> >>> 5 to 10C above that.
> >>>
> >>> Bob
> >>>
> >>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
> >>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
> >>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23
> >> do
> >>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other
> >>> clues
> >>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
> >>>> supports the 2 oven theory.
> >>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
> >>>> probe in.
> >>>> Thanks everyone.
> >>>> Paul
> >>>> WB8TSL
> >>>>
> >>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Hi
> >>>>>
> >>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
> >>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
> >>>>> doesn’t work.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
> >>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….).
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Bob
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Hello to the group.
> >>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
> >>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
> >>> (Funny
> >>>>>> that its labeled 15a)
> >>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
> >> find
> >>>>> over
> >>>>>> the years.
> >>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual
> >>> and
> >>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
> >> Using
> >>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I
> was
> >>>>> lucky
> >>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
> >>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
> >> exactly
> >>>>> 110
> >>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply
> >> from
> >>>>> +/-
> >>>>>> 12-15V.
> >>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
> >>>>>> Thank you
> >>>>>> Paul
> >>>>>> WB8TSL
> >>>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>>
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >> To unsubscribe, go to
> >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >> and follow the instructions there.
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> > To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> > and follow the instructions there.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> and follow the instructions there.
>
BK
Bob kb8tq
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 4:08 PM
Hi
If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places with
temperatures at or above that level.
If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear indoors,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end” temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.
This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper end spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and date
to the “era” of the URQ10.
In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C. If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.
Bob
On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of the
outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It slowly
moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.
Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the crystal
being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.
Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner oven
components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the heater
is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex. You
do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have written
papers addressing that point :)
Bob
Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
Paul Alfille K1PHA
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
5 to 10C above that.
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
Hi
If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places with
temperatures at or above that level.
If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear *indoors*,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end” temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.
This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper end spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and date
to the “era” of the URQ10.
In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C. If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.
Bob
> On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Bob
> OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
> So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
> spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
> radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
> But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of the
> outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
> reasonably stable though.
> Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
> position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
> position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It slowly
> moves to the high side.
> No real details on anything and a total guess.
> Really appreciate the thoughts.
> Regards
> Paul
> WB8TSL
>
> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>
>> Hi
>>
>> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
>> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
>> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
>>
>> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
>> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
>> issue.
>>
>> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
>> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
>>
>> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the crystal
>> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
>> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.
>>
>> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner oven
>> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the heater
>> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex. You
>> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
>>
>> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have* written
>> papers addressing that point :)
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
>>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
>>>
>>> Paul Alfille K1PHA
>>>
>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
>> there
>>>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast
>> has
>>>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
>>>> Thanks Bob
>>>> Paul
>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi
>>>>>
>>>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough
>> to
>>>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
>> temperature
>>>>> on
>>>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
>>>>> 5 to 10C above that.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bob
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
>>>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
>>>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23
>>>> do
>>>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other
>>>>> clues
>>>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
>>>>>> supports the 2 oven theory.
>>>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
>>>>>> probe in.
>>>>>> Thanks everyone.
>>>>>> Paul
>>>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hi
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
>>>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
>>>>>>> doesn’t work.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
>>>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Hello to the group.
>>>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
>>>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
>>>>> (Funny
>>>>>>>> that its labeled 15a)
>>>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
>>>> find
>>>>>>> over
>>>>>>>> the years.
>>>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual
>>>>> and
>>>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
>>>> Using
>>>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I
>> was
>>>>>>> lucky
>>>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
>>>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
>>>> exactly
>>>>>>> 110
>>>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply
>>>> from
>>>>>>> +/-
>>>>>>>> 12-15V.
>>>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
>>>>>>>> Thank you
>>>>>>>> Paul
>>>>>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> and follow the instructions there.
>>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> and follow the instructions there.
PS
paul swed
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 4:28 PM
Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa 1970s
were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator was
the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
Chuckle.
This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might show
up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a lead I
can measure the current of the inner oven....
Thanks
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the
URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places
with
temperatures at or above that level.
If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
indoors,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.
This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper end
spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and
date
to the “era” of the URQ10.
In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C. If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.
Bob
On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of
outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It
moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.
Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the
being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.
Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner oven
components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the
is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex. You
do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have
papers addressing that point :)
Bob
Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
Paul Alfille K1PHA
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to
On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa 1970s
were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator was
the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
Chuckle.
This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might show
up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a lead I
can measure the current of the inner oven....
Thanks
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> Hi
>
> If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the
> URQ10
> did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places
> with
> temperatures at or above that level.
>
> If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
> *indoors*,
> a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
> temperature
> on ground gear in relatively benign installations.
>
> This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
> equipment
> catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper end
> spec.
> The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
> targeted
> pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and
> date
> to the “era” of the URQ10.
>
> In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C. If
> anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.
>
> Bob
>
> > On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Bob
> > OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
> > So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
> > spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
> > radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
> > But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of
> the
> > outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
> > reasonably stable though.
> > Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
> > position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
> > position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It
> slowly
> > moves to the high side.
> > No real details on anything and a total guess.
> > Really appreciate the thoughts.
> > Regards
> > Paul
> > WB8TSL
> >
> > On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> >
> >> Hi
> >>
> >> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
> >> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
> >> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
> >>
> >> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
> >> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
> >> issue.
> >>
> >> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
> >> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
> >>
> >> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the
> crystal
> >> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
> >> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.
> >>
> >> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner oven
> >> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the
> heater
> >> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex. You
> >> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
> >>
> >> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have*
> written
> >> papers addressing that point :)
> >>
> >> Bob
> >>
> >>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
> >>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
> >>>
> >>> Paul Alfille K1PHA
> >>>
> >>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
> >> there
> >>>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this
> beast
> >> has
> >>>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
> >>>> Thanks Bob
> >>>> Paul
> >>>> WB8TSL
> >>>>
> >>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Hi
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough
> >> to
> >>>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
> >> temperature
> >>>>> on
> >>>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to
> be
> >>>>> 5 to 10C above that.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Bob
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
> >>>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am
> only
> >>>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer
> URQ23
> >>>> do
> >>>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no
> other
> >>>>> clues
> >>>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
> >>>>>> supports the 2 oven theory.
> >>>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put
> the
> >>>>>> probe in.
> >>>>>> Thanks everyone.
> >>>>>> Paul
> >>>>>> WB8TSL
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Hi
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold
> climate.
> >>>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven
> just
> >>>>>>> doesn’t work.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
> >>>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….).
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Bob
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Hello to the group.
> >>>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
> >>>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
> >>>>> (Funny
> >>>>>>>> that its labeled 15a)
> >>>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
> >>>> find
> >>>>>>> over
> >>>>>>>> the years.
> >>>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
> manual
> >>>>> and
> >>>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
> >>>> Using
> >>>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I
> >> was
> >>>>>>> lucky
> >>>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
> >>>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
> >>>> exactly
> >>>>>>> 110
> >>>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply
> >>>> from
> >>>>>>> +/-
> >>>>>>>> 12-15V.
> >>>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
> >>>>>>>> Thank you
> >>>>>>>> Paul
> >>>>>>>> WB8TSL
> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>>
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >> To unsubscribe, go to
> >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >> and follow the instructions there.
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> > To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> > and follow the instructions there.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> and follow the instructions there.
>
PS
paul swed
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 6:07 PM
Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing
screws internally.
But appears both heater windings are ok.
So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to
be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
other places HP3801.
But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The inner
is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are the
offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of taking
out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
Regards
Paul
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa 1970s
were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator was
the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
Chuckle.
This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might show
up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a lead I
can measure the current of the inner oven....
Thanks
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the
URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places
with
temperatures at or above that level.
If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
indoors,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.
This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper
end spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and
date
to the “era” of the URQ10.
In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C.
If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.
Bob
On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of
outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It
moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.
Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the
being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.
Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner
components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the
is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex.
do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have
papers addressing that point :)
Bob
Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
Paul Alfille K1PHA
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com
50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing
screws internally.
But appears both heater windings are ok.
So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to
be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
other places HP3801.
But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The inner
is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are the
offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of taking
out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
Regards
Paul
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa 1970s
> were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
> sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator was
> the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
> stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
> Chuckle.
> This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
> disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might show
> up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a lead I
> can measure the current of the inner oven....
> Thanks
>
> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>
>> Hi
>>
>> If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the
>> URQ10
>> did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places
>> with
>> temperatures at or above that level.
>>
>> If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
>> *indoors*,
>> a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
>> temperature
>> on ground gear in relatively benign installations.
>>
>> This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
>> equipment
>> catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper
>> end spec.
>> The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
>> targeted
>> pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and
>> date
>> to the “era” of the URQ10.
>>
>> In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C.
>> If
>> anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> > On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > Bob
>> > OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
>> > So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
>> > spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
>> > radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
>> > But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of
>> the
>> > outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
>> > reasonably stable though.
>> > Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
>> > position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
>> > position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It
>> slowly
>> > moves to the high side.
>> > No real details on anything and a total guess.
>> > Really appreciate the thoughts.
>> > Regards
>> > Paul
>> > WB8TSL
>> >
>> > On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Hi
>> >>
>> >> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
>> >> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
>> >> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
>> >>
>> >> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
>> >> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
>> >> issue.
>> >>
>> >> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
>> >> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
>> >>
>> >> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the
>> crystal
>> >> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
>> >> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.
>> >>
>> >> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner
>> oven
>> >> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the
>> heater
>> >> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex.
>> You
>> >> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
>> >>
>> >> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have*
>> written
>> >> papers addressing that point :)
>> >>
>> >> Bob
>> >>
>> >>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
>> >>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
>> >>>
>> >>> Paul Alfille K1PHA
>> >>>
>> >>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
>> >> there
>> >>>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this
>> beast
>> >> has
>> >>>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency
>> Electronics.
>> >>>> Thanks Bob
>> >>>> Paul
>> >>>> WB8TSL
>> >>>>
>> >>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>> >>>>
>> >>>>> Hi
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low
>> enough
>> >> to
>> >>>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
>> >> temperature
>> >>>>> on
>> >>>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need
>> to be
>> >>>>> 5 to 10C above that.
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> Bob
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
>> >>>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am
>> only
>> >>>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer
>> URQ23
>> >>>> do
>> >>>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no
>> other
>> >>>>> clues
>> >>>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
>> >>>>>> supports the 2 oven theory.
>> >>>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put
>> the
>> >>>>>> probe in.
>> >>>>>> Thanks everyone.
>> >>>>>> Paul
>> >>>>>> WB8TSL
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>>> Hi
>> >>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold
>> climate.
>> >>>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven
>> just
>> >>>>>>> doesn’t work.
>> >>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
>> >>>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….).
>> >>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>> Bob
>> >>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> >>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>> Hello to the group.
>> >>>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
>> >>>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
>> >>>>> (Funny
>> >>>>>>>> that its labeled 15a)
>> >>>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
>> >>>> find
>> >>>>>>> over
>> >>>>>>>> the years.
>> >>>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
>> manual
>> >>>>> and
>> >>>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
>> >>>> Using
>> >>>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I
>> >> was
>> >>>>>>> lucky
>> >>>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
>> >>>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
>> >>>> exactly
>> >>>>>>> 110
>> >>>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of
>> supply
>> >>>> from
>> >>>>>>> +/-
>> >>>>>>>> 12-15V.
>> >>>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
>> >>>>>>>> Thank you
>> >>>>>>>> Paul
>> >>>>>>>> WB8TSL
>> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>> >>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> >>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>> >>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>> >>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> >>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> >>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>> >>>>>>>
>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________
>> >>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> >>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> >>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> _______________________________________________
>> >>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> >>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>> >>>>>
>> >>>> _______________________________________________
>> >>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> >>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> >>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> >>>> and follow the instructions there.
>> >>>>
>> >>> _______________________________________________
>> >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> >>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> >>> and follow the instructions there.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> >> To unsubscribe, go to
>> >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> >> and follow the instructions there.
>> >>
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> > To unsubscribe, go to
>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> > and follow the instructions there.
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>> To unsubscribe, go to
>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>> and follow the instructions there.
>>
>
EB
ed breya
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 7:58 PM
Paul, from your description, it sounds like it's not an outer and inner
oven in the traditional sense, but that the extra heater is to improve
things at the weak spot in the Dewar system - the opening, where the
high-grade insulation is lost, and conductive things pass through. So
maybe it should be called a "dual oven" or "Dewar-compensator" or such.
The big question is how are they controlled, and what are the
set-points. It could be that the one by the opening is variable, being
set to somewhere between the desired inner temperature and ambient. Or,
maybe that one is supposed to be 110 deg F constant, and if ambient goes
higher, then so be it, and the specs may be looser. BTW are you sure the
"110" figure is supposed to indicate a numerical temperature (regardless
of units)?
Ed
Paul, from your description, it sounds like it's not an outer and inner
oven in the traditional sense, but that the extra heater is to improve
things at the weak spot in the Dewar system - the opening, where the
high-grade insulation is lost, and conductive things pass through. So
maybe it should be called a "dual oven" or "Dewar-compensator" or such.
The big question is how are they controlled, and what are the
set-points. It could be that the one by the opening is variable, being
set to somewhere between the desired inner temperature and ambient. Or,
maybe that one is supposed to be 110 deg F constant, and if ambient goes
higher, then so be it, and the specs may be looser. BTW are you sure the
"110" figure is supposed to indicate a numerical temperature (regardless
of units)?
Ed
BK
Bob kb8tq
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 8:28 PM
Hi
In a dewar flask OCXO, all the heat loss is out the “mouth” of the
flask. There is essentially zero energy flow between the inner and outer
walls via the “vacuum filled” gap between them.
The net result is that if you heat a “plug” in the flask, everything past that
plug will be at the same temperature. To do a double oven with a flask,
you put two “plugs” in it.
Bob
On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing
screws internally.
But appears both heater windings are ok.
So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to
be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
other places HP3801.
But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The inner
is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are the
offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of taking
out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
Regards
Paul
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa 1970s
were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator was
the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
Chuckle.
This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might show
up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a lead I
can measure the current of the inner oven....
Thanks
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the
URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places
with
temperatures at or above that level.
If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
indoors,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.
This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper
end spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and
date
to the “era” of the URQ10.
In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C.
If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.
Bob
On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of
outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It
moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.
Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the
being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.
Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner
components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the
is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex.
do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have
papers addressing that point :)
Bob
Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
Paul Alfille K1PHA
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com
50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
Hi
In a dewar flask OCXO, all the heat loss is out the “mouth” of the
flask. There is essentially zero energy flow between the inner and outer
walls via the “vacuum filled” gap between them.
The net result is that if you heat a “plug” in the flask, everything past that
plug will be at the same temperature. To do a double oven with a flask,
you put two “plugs” in it.
Bob
> On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing
> screws internally.
> But appears both heater windings are ok.
> So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to
> be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
> other places HP3801.
> But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The inner
> is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
> completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
> actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are the
> offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
> Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of taking
> out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
> Regards
> Paul
>
> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa 1970s
>> were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
>> sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator was
>> the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
>> stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
>> Chuckle.
>> This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
>> disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might show
>> up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a lead I
>> can measure the current of the inner oven....
>> Thanks
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the
>>> URQ10
>>> did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places
>>> with
>>> temperatures at or above that level.
>>>
>>> If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
>>> *indoors*,
>>> a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
>>> temperature
>>> on ground gear in relatively benign installations.
>>>
>>> This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
>>> equipment
>>> catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper
>>> end spec.
>>> The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
>>> targeted
>>> pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and
>>> date
>>> to the “era” of the URQ10.
>>>
>>> In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C.
>>> If
>>> anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>> On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>> OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
>>>> So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
>>>> spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
>>>> radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
>>>> But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of
>>> the
>>>> outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
>>>> reasonably stable though.
>>>> Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
>>>> position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
>>>> position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It
>>> slowly
>>>> moves to the high side.
>>>> No real details on anything and a total guess.
>>>> Really appreciate the thoughts.
>>>> Regards
>>>> Paul
>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi
>>>>>
>>>>> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
>>>>> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
>>>>> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
>>>>>
>>>>> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
>>>>> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
>>>>> issue.
>>>>>
>>>>> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
>>>>> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the
>>> crystal
>>>>> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
>>>>> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.
>>>>>
>>>>> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner
>>> oven
>>>>> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the
>>> heater
>>>>> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex.
>>> You
>>>>> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
>>>>>
>>>>> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have*
>>> written
>>>>> papers addressing that point :)
>>>>>
>>>>> Bob
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
>>>>>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Paul Alfille K1PHA
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
>>>>> there
>>>>>>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this
>>> beast
>>>>> has
>>>>>>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency
>>> Electronics.
>>>>>>> Thanks Bob
>>>>>>> Paul
>>>>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Hi
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low
>>> enough
>>>>> to
>>>>>>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
>>>>> temperature
>>>>>>>> on
>>>>>>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need
>>> to be
>>>>>>>> 5 to 10C above that.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
>>>>>>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am
>>> only
>>>>>>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer
>>> URQ23
>>>>>>> do
>>>>>>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no
>>> other
>>>>>>>> clues
>>>>>>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
>>>>>>>>> supports the 2 oven theory.
>>>>>>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put
>>> the
>>>>>>>>> probe in.
>>>>>>>>> Thanks everyone.
>>>>>>>>> Paul
>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Hi
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold
>>> climate.
>>>>>>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven
>>> just
>>>>>>>>>> doesn’t work.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
>>>>>>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….).
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Hello to the group.
>>>>>>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
>>>>>>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
>>>>>>>> (Funny
>>>>>>>>>>> that its labeled 15a)
>>>>>>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
>>>>>>> find
>>>>>>>>>> over
>>>>>>>>>>> the years.
>>>>>>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
>>> manual
>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
>>>>>>> Using
>>>>>>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I
>>>>> was
>>>>>>>>>> lucky
>>>>>>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
>>>>>>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
>>>>>>> exactly
>>>>>>>>>> 110
>>>>>>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of
>>> supply
>>>>>>> from
>>>>>>>>>> +/-
>>>>>>>>>>> 12-15V.
>>>>>>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
>>>>>>>>>>> Thank you
>>>>>>>>>>> Paul
>>>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>> and follow the instructions there.
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>>
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BK
Bob kb8tq
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 9:53 PM
On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing
screws internally.
But appears both heater windings are ok.
So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to
be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
other places HP3801.
But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The inner
is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are the
offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of taking
out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
Regards
Paul
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa 1970s
were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator was
the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
Chuckle.
This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might show
up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a lead I
can measure the current of the inner oven....
Thanks
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the
URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places
with
temperatures at or above that level.
If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
indoors,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.
This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper
end spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and
date
to the “era” of the URQ10.
In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C.
If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.
Bob
On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of
outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It
moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.
Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the
being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.
Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner
components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the
is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex.
do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have
papers addressing that point :)
Bob
Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
Paul Alfille K1PHA
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com
50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
Hi
According to table 1-2 in:
http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf <http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf>
The URQ-9 and URQ-10 both were rated for 0 to 50C.
Per:
http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf <http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf>
The URQ-23 was rated for 0 to 50C
I’d say it’s a pretty likely that the URQ-13 was rated to operate over
0 to 50C. It went into the same locations and did the same thing as the
other devices.
Bob
> On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing
> screws internally.
> But appears both heater windings are ok.
> So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to
> be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
> other places HP3801.
> But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The inner
> is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
> completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
> actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are the
> offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
> Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of taking
> out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
> Regards
> Paul
>
> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa 1970s
>> were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
>> sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator was
>> the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
>> stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
>> Chuckle.
>> This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
>> disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might show
>> up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a lead I
>> can measure the current of the inner oven....
>> Thanks
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the
>>> URQ10
>>> did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places
>>> with
>>> temperatures at or above that level.
>>>
>>> If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
>>> *indoors*,
>>> a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
>>> temperature
>>> on ground gear in relatively benign installations.
>>>
>>> This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
>>> equipment
>>> catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper
>>> end spec.
>>> The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
>>> targeted
>>> pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and
>>> date
>>> to the “era” of the URQ10.
>>>
>>> In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C.
>>> If
>>> anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>> On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>> OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
>>>> So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
>>>> spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
>>>> radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
>>>> But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of
>>> the
>>>> outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
>>>> reasonably stable though.
>>>> Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
>>>> position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
>>>> position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It
>>> slowly
>>>> moves to the high side.
>>>> No real details on anything and a total guess.
>>>> Really appreciate the thoughts.
>>>> Regards
>>>> Paul
>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi
>>>>>
>>>>> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
>>>>> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
>>>>> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
>>>>>
>>>>> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
>>>>> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
>>>>> issue.
>>>>>
>>>>> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
>>>>> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the
>>> crystal
>>>>> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
>>>>> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.
>>>>>
>>>>> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner
>>> oven
>>>>> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the
>>> heater
>>>>> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex.
>>> You
>>>>> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
>>>>>
>>>>> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have*
>>> written
>>>>> papers addressing that point :)
>>>>>
>>>>> Bob
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
>>>>>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Paul Alfille K1PHA
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
>>>>> there
>>>>>>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this
>>> beast
>>>>> has
>>>>>>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency
>>> Electronics.
>>>>>>> Thanks Bob
>>>>>>> Paul
>>>>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Hi
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low
>>> enough
>>>>> to
>>>>>>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
>>>>> temperature
>>>>>>>> on
>>>>>>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need
>>> to be
>>>>>>>> 5 to 10C above that.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
>>>>>>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am
>>> only
>>>>>>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer
>>> URQ23
>>>>>>> do
>>>>>>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no
>>> other
>>>>>>>> clues
>>>>>>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
>>>>>>>>> supports the 2 oven theory.
>>>>>>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put
>>> the
>>>>>>>>> probe in.
>>>>>>>>> Thanks everyone.
>>>>>>>>> Paul
>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Hi
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold
>>> climate.
>>>>>>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven
>>> just
>>>>>>>>>> doesn’t work.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
>>>>>>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….).
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Hello to the group.
>>>>>>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
>>>>>>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.
>>>>>>>> (Funny
>>>>>>>>>>> that its labeled 15a)
>>>>>>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to
>>>>>>> find
>>>>>>>>>> over
>>>>>>>>>>> the years.
>>>>>>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
>>> manual
>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.
>>>>>>> Using
>>>>>>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I
>>>>> was
>>>>>>>>>> lucky
>>>>>>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
>>>>>>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
>>>>>>> exactly
>>>>>>>>>> 110
>>>>>>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of
>>> supply
>>>>>>> from
>>>>>>>>>> +/-
>>>>>>>>>>> 12-15V.
>>>>>>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
>>>>>>>>>>> Thank you
>>>>>>>>>>> Paul
>>>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
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>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>> and follow the instructions there.
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>>
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> and follow the instructions there.
PS
paul swed
Sat, Feb 13, 2021 12:25 AM
The temps I am reading are with a K thermocouple so pretty accurate. I had
simply slid the thermocouple into the flask on the outer edge of the
ovens.The assembly is out of the flask now and both inner and outer are
heating. Will see what they do. Both seem to be heating at about the same
rate. So the great news is the oven windings are not bad. I do see a very
significant voltage difference on two leads that I might guess matter. But
still decoding and reverse engineering everything.
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 5:20 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing
screws internally.
But appears both heater windings are ok.
So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to
be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
other places HP3801.
But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The
is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are
offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of
out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
Regards
Paul
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa
were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator
the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
Chuckle.
This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might
up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a
can measure the current of the inner oven....
Thanks
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of
URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to
with
temperatures at or above that level.
If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
indoors,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.
This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper
end spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …)
date
to the “era” of the URQ10.
In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C.
If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.
Bob
On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of
outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing
reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It
moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.
Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the
being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum
Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner
components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the
is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex.
do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have
papers addressing that point :)
Bob
Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating
50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
The temps I am reading are with a K thermocouple so pretty accurate. I had
simply slid the thermocouple into the flask on the outer edge of the
ovens.The assembly is out of the flask now and both inner and outer are
heating. Will see what they do. Both seem to be heating at about the same
rate. So the great news is the oven windings are not bad. I do see a very
significant voltage difference on two leads that I might guess matter. But
still decoding and reverse engineering everything.
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 5:20 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> Hi
>
> According to table 1-2 in:
>
> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf <
> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf>
>
> The URQ-9 and URQ-10 both were rated for 0 to 50C.
>
> Per:
>
> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf <
> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf>
>
> The URQ-23 was rated for 0 to 50C
>
> I’d say it’s a pretty likely that the URQ-13 was rated to operate over
> 0 to 50C. It went into the same locations and did the same thing as the
> other devices.
>
> Bob
>
>
> > On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing
> > screws internally.
> > But appears both heater windings are ok.
> > So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to
> > be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
> > other places HP3801.
> > But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The
> inner
> > is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
> > completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
> > actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are
> the
> > offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
> > Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of
> taking
> > out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
> > Regards
> > Paul
> >
> > On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa
> 1970s
> >> were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
> >> sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator
> was
> >> the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
> >> stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
> >> Chuckle.
> >> This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
> >> disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might
> show
> >> up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a
> lead I
> >> can measure the current of the inner oven....
> >> Thanks
> >>
> >> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Hi
> >>>
> >>> If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of
> the
> >>> URQ10
> >>> did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to
> places
> >>> with
> >>> temperatures at or above that level.
> >>>
> >>> If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
> >>> *indoors*,
> >>> a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
> >>> temperature
> >>> on ground gear in relatively benign installations.
> >>>
> >>> This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
> >>> equipment
> >>> catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper
> >>> end spec.
> >>> The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
> >>> targeted
> >>> pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …)
> and
> >>> date
> >>> to the “era” of the URQ10.
> >>>
> >>> In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C.
> >>> If
> >>> anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.
> >>>
> >>> Bob
> >>>
> >>>> On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Bob
> >>>> OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
> >>>> So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
> >>>> spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
> >>>> radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
> >>>> But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of
> >>> the
> >>>> outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing
> is
> >>>> reasonably stable though.
> >>>> Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
> >>>> position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
> >>>> position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It
> >>> slowly
> >>>> moves to the high side.
> >>>> No real details on anything and a total guess.
> >>>> Really appreciate the thoughts.
> >>>> Regards
> >>>> Paul
> >>>> WB8TSL
> >>>>
> >>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Hi
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
> >>>>> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs
> away)
> >>>>> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
> >>>>>
> >>>>> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
> >>>>> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
> >>>>> issue.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you
> are
> >>>>> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the
> >>> crystal
> >>>>> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
> >>>>> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum
> ambient.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner
> >>> oven
> >>>>> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the
> >>> heater
> >>>>> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex.
> >>> You
> >>>>> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
> >>>>>
> >>>>> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have*
> >>> written
> >>>>> papers addressing that point :)
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Bob
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com>
> >>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
> >>>>>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating
> heat.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Paul Alfille K1PHA
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
> >>>>> there
> >>>>>>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this
> >>> beast
> >>>>> has
> >>>>>>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency
> >>> Electronics.
> >>>>>>> Thanks Bob
> >>>>>>> Paul
> >>>>>>> WB8TSL
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Hi
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low
> >>> enough
> >>>>> to
> >>>>>>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
> >>>>> temperature
> >>>>>>>> on
> >>>>>>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need
> >>> to be
> >>>>>>>> 5 to 10C above that.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Bob
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
> >>>>>>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am
> >>> only
> >>>>>>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer
> >>> URQ23
> >>>>>>> do
> >>>>>>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no
> >>> other
> >>>>>>>> clues
> >>>>>>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort
> of
> >>>>>>>>> supports the 2 oven theory.
> >>>>>>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to
> put
> >>> the
> >>>>>>>>> probe in.
> >>>>>>>>> Thanks everyone.
> >>>>>>>>> Paul
> >>>>>>>>> WB8TSL
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> Hi
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold
> >>> climate.
> >>>>>>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven
> >>> just
> >>>>>>>>>> doesn’t work.
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
> >>>>>>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….).
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> Bob
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> Hello to the group.
> >>>>>>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
> >>>>>>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha
> build.
> >>>>>>>> (Funny
> >>>>>>>>>>> that its labeled 15a)
> >>>>>>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able
> to
> >>>>>>> find
> >>>>>>>>>> over
> >>>>>>>>>>> the years.
> >>>>>>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
> >>> manual
> >>>>>>>> and
> >>>>>>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally
> wrong.
> >>>>>>> Using
> >>>>>>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly
> well. I
> >>>>> was
> >>>>>>>>>> lucky
> >>>>>>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
> >>>>>>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
> >>>>>>> exactly
> >>>>>>>>>> 110
> >>>>>>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of
> >>> supply
> >>>>>>> from
> >>>>>>>>>> +/-
> >>>>>>>>>>> 12-15V.
> >>>>>>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
> >>>>>>>>>>> Thank you
> >>>>>>>>>>> Paul
> >>>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL
> >>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
> >>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> >>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
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> >>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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> >>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
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> >>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>> _______________________________________________
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> >>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
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> >>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> _______________________________________________
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> >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
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> >>>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>>
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> >>>
> >>>
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> >>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>
> >>
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> > To unsubscribe, go to
> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
> > and follow the instructions there.
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> and follow the instructions there.
>
BK
Bob kb8tq
Sat, Feb 13, 2021 2:08 AM
Hi
If you are reading something below 60C on a dewar flask outer oven …. it
is borken….. very broken.
Bob
On Feb 12, 2021, at 7:25 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
The temps I am reading are with a K thermocouple so pretty accurate. I had
simply slid the thermocouple into the flask on the outer edge of the
ovens.The assembly is out of the flask now and both inner and outer are
heating. Will see what they do. Both seem to be heating at about the same
rate. So the great news is the oven windings are not bad. I do see a very
significant voltage difference on two leads that I might guess matter. But
still decoding and reverse engineering everything.
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 5:20 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing
screws internally.
But appears both heater windings are ok.
So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to
be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
other places HP3801.
But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The
is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are
offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of
out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
Regards
Paul
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa
were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator
the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
Chuckle.
This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might
up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a
can measure the current of the inner oven....
Thanks
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of
URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to
with
temperatures at or above that level.
If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
indoors,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.
This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper
end spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …)
date
to the “era” of the URQ10.
In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C.
If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.
Bob
On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of
outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing
reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It
moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.
Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the
being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum
Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner
components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the
is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex.
do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have
papers addressing that point :)
Bob
Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating
50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
Hi
If you are reading something below 60C on a dewar flask outer oven …. it
is borken….. very broken.
Bob
> On Feb 12, 2021, at 7:25 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The temps I am reading are with a K thermocouple so pretty accurate. I had
> simply slid the thermocouple into the flask on the outer edge of the
> ovens.The assembly is out of the flask now and both inner and outer are
> heating. Will see what they do. Both seem to be heating at about the same
> rate. So the great news is the oven windings are not bad. I do see a very
> significant voltage difference on two leads that I might guess matter. But
> still decoding and reverse engineering everything.
>
> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 5:20 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>
>> Hi
>>
>> According to table 1-2 in:
>>
>> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf <
>> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf>
>>
>> The URQ-9 and URQ-10 both were rated for 0 to 50C.
>>
>> Per:
>>
>> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf <
>> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf>
>>
>> The URQ-23 was rated for 0 to 50C
>>
>> I’d say it’s a pretty likely that the URQ-13 was rated to operate over
>> 0 to 50C. It went into the same locations and did the same thing as the
>> other devices.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>> On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing
>>> screws internally.
>>> But appears both heater windings are ok.
>>> So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to
>>> be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
>>> other places HP3801.
>>> But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The
>> inner
>>> is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
>>> completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
>>> actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are
>> the
>>> offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
>>> Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of
>> taking
>>> out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
>>> Regards
>>> Paul
>>>
>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa
>> 1970s
>>>> were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
>>>> sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator
>> was
>>>> the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
>>>> stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
>>>> Chuckle.
>>>> This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
>>>> disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might
>> show
>>>> up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a
>> lead I
>>>> can measure the current of the inner oven....
>>>> Thanks
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi
>>>>>
>>>>> If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of
>> the
>>>>> URQ10
>>>>> did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to
>> places
>>>>> with
>>>>> temperatures at or above that level.
>>>>>
>>>>> If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
>>>>> *indoors*,
>>>>> a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
>>>>> temperature
>>>>> on ground gear in relatively benign installations.
>>>>>
>>>>> This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
>>>>> equipment
>>>>> catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper
>>>>> end spec.
>>>>> The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
>>>>> targeted
>>>>> pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …)
>> and
>>>>> date
>>>>> to the “era” of the URQ10.
>>>>>
>>>>> In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C.
>>>>> If
>>>>> anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bob
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>> OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
>>>>>> So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
>>>>>> spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
>>>>>> radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
>>>>>> But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of
>>>>> the
>>>>>> outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing
>> is
>>>>>> reasonably stable though.
>>>>>> Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
>>>>>> position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
>>>>>> position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It
>>>>> slowly
>>>>>> moves to the high side.
>>>>>> No real details on anything and a total guess.
>>>>>> Really appreciate the thoughts.
>>>>>> Regards
>>>>>> Paul
>>>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hi
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
>>>>>>> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs
>> away)
>>>>>>> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
>>>>>>> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
>>>>>>> issue.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you
>> are
>>>>>>> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the
>>>>> crystal
>>>>>>> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
>>>>>>> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum
>> ambient.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner
>>>>> oven
>>>>>>> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the
>>>>> heater
>>>>>>> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex.
>>>>> You
>>>>>>> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have*
>>>>> written
>>>>>>> papers addressing that point :)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com>
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
>>>>>>>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating
>> heat.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Paul Alfille K1PHA
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could
>>>>>>> there
>>>>>>>>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this
>>>>> beast
>>>>>>> has
>>>>>>>>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency
>>>>> Electronics.
>>>>>>>>> Thanks Bob
>>>>>>>>> Paul
>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Hi
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low
>>>>> enough
>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
>>>>>>> temperature
>>>>>>>>>> on
>>>>>>>>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need
>>>>> to be
>>>>>>>>>> 5 to 10C above that.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
>>>>>>>>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am
>>>>> only
>>>>>>>>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer
>>>>> URQ23
>>>>>>>>> do
>>>>>>>>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no
>>>>> other
>>>>>>>>>> clues
>>>>>>>>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort
>> of
>>>>>>>>>>> supports the 2 oven theory.
>>>>>>>>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to
>> put
>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>> probe in.
>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks everyone.
>>>>>>>>>>> Paul
>>>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold
>>>>> climate.
>>>>>>>>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven
>>>>> just
>>>>>>>>>>>> doesn’t work.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
>>>>>>>>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….).
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hello to the group.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha
>> build.
>>>>>>>>>> (Funny
>>>>>>>>>>>>> that its labeled 15a)
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able
>> to
>>>>>>>>> find
>>>>>>>>>>>> over
>>>>>>>>>>>>> the years.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
>>>>> manual
>>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally
>> wrong.
>>>>>>>>> Using
>>>>>>>>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly
>> well. I
>>>>>>> was
>>>>>>>>>>>> lucky
>>>>>>>>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at
>>>>>>>>> exactly
>>>>>>>>>>>> 110
>>>>>>>>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of
>>>>> supply
>>>>>>>>> from
>>>>>>>>>>>> +/-
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 12-15V.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thank you
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Paul
>>>>>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL
>>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to
>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
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>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com
>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>> and follow the instructions there.
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PS
paul swed
Sat, Feb 13, 2021 2:45 AM
I see a glass tape on the inner oven with writing "40.0". Thats it.
Assuming C its a long way off.The flask is fine the ovens are heating to
110F. Both of them. So somethings wrong. Interesting as I peel something
like caulking off the outer board I see what looks like a opamp. But its a
FE house number. The top of the can has NSC. The old national semiconductor
label. Could be a LM709 class opamp.
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 9:12 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
If you are reading something below 60C on a dewar flask outer oven …. it
is borken….. very broken.
Bob
On Feb 12, 2021, at 7:25 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
The temps I am reading are with a K thermocouple so pretty accurate. I
simply slid the thermocouple into the flask on the outer edge of the
ovens.The assembly is out of the flask now and both inner and outer are
heating. Will see what they do. Both seem to be heating at about the same
rate. So the great news is the oven windings are not bad. I do see a very
significant voltage difference on two leads that I might guess matter.
still decoding and reverse engineering everything.
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 5:20 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:
Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint
screws internally.
But appears both heater windings are ok.
So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this
be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
other places HP3801.
But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The
is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are
offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of
out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
Regards
Paul
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com
Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa
were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator
the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
Chuckle.
This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might
up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a
can measure the current of the inner oven....
Thanks
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of
URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to
with
temperatures at or above that level.
If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics
indoors,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper
temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.
This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C
end spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …)
date
to the “era” of the URQ10.
In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to
If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.
Bob
Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside
outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing
reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It
moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same
issue.
Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the
being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum
Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner
components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the
is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more
do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have
papers addressing that point :)
Bob
On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <
Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating
50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:
Hi
Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would
OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up.
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL
On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org
Hi
110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the
doesn’t work.
110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).
Bob
Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL
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and follow the instructions there.
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and follow the instructions there.
and follow the instructions there.
I see a glass tape on the inner oven with writing "40.0". Thats it.
Assuming C its a long way off.The flask is fine the ovens are heating to
110F. Both of them. So somethings wrong. Interesting as I peel something
like caulking off the outer board I see what looks like a opamp. But its a
FE house number. The top of the can has NSC. The old national semiconductor
label. Could be a LM709 class opamp.
On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 9:12 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> Hi
>
> If you are reading something below 60C on a dewar flask outer oven …. it
> is borken….. very broken.
>
> Bob
>
> > On Feb 12, 2021, at 7:25 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > The temps I am reading are with a K thermocouple so pretty accurate. I
> had
> > simply slid the thermocouple into the flask on the outer edge of the
> > ovens.The assembly is out of the flask now and both inner and outer are
> > heating. Will see what they do. Both seem to be heating at about the same
> > rate. So the great news is the oven windings are not bad. I do see a very
> > significant voltage difference on two leads that I might guess matter.
> But
> > still decoding and reverse engineering everything.
> >
> > On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 5:20 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> >
> >> Hi
> >>
> >> According to table 1-2 in:
> >>
> >> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf <
> >> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf>
> >>
> >> The URQ-9 and URQ-10 both were rated for 0 to 50C.
> >>
> >> Per:
> >>
> >> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf <
> >> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf>
> >>
> >> The URQ-23 was rated for 0 to 50C
> >>
> >> I’d say it’s a pretty likely that the URQ-13 was rated to operate over
> >> 0 to 50C. It went into the same locations and did the same thing as the
> >> other devices.
> >>
> >> Bob
> >>
> >>
> >>> On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint
> missing
> >>> screws internally.
> >>> But appears both heater windings are ok.
> >>> So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this
> to
> >>> be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
> >>> other places HP3801.
> >>> But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The
> >> inner
> >>> is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
> >>> completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
> >>> actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are
> >> the
> >>> offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
> >>> Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of
> >> taking
> >>> out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
> >>> Regards
> >>> Paul
> >>>
> >>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa
> >> 1970s
> >>>> were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
> >>>> sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator
> >> was
> >>>> the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
> >>>> stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
> >>>> Chuckle.
> >>>> This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
> >>>> disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might
> >> show
> >>>> up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a
> >> lead I
> >>>> can measure the current of the inner oven....
> >>>> Thanks
> >>>>
> >>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Hi
> >>>>>
> >>>>> If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of
> >> the
> >>>>> URQ10
> >>>>> did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to
> >> places
> >>>>> with
> >>>>> temperatures at or above that level.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics
> gear
> >>>>> *indoors*,
> >>>>> a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper
> end”
> >>>>> temperature
> >>>>> on ground gear in relatively benign installations.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
> >>>>> equipment
> >>>>> catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C
> upper
> >>>>> end spec.
> >>>>> The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
> >>>>> targeted
> >>>>> pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …)
> >> and
> >>>>> date
> >>>>> to the “era” of the URQ10.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to
> 55C.
> >>>>> If
> >>>>> anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Bob
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Bob
> >>>>>> OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
> >>>>>> So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in
> the
> >>>>>> spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics
> the
> >>>>>> radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
> >>>>>> But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside
> of
> >>>>> the
> >>>>>> outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing
> >> is
> >>>>>> reasonably stable though.
> >>>>>> Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that
> the
> >>>>>> position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
> >>>>>> position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It
> >>>>> slowly
> >>>>>> moves to the high side.
> >>>>>> No real details on anything and a total guess.
> >>>>>> Really appreciate the thoughts.
> >>>>>> Regards
> >>>>>> Paul
> >>>>>> WB8TSL
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Hi
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
> >>>>>>> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs
> >> away)
> >>>>>>> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
> >>>>>>> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same
> runaway
> >>>>>>> issue.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you
> >> are
> >>>>>>> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the
> >>>>> crystal
> >>>>>>> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the
> maximum
> >>>>>>> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum
> >> ambient.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner
> >>>>> oven
> >>>>>>> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the
> >>>>> heater
> >>>>>>> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more
> complex.
> >>>>> You
> >>>>>>> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have*
> >>>>> written
> >>>>>>> papers addressing that point :)
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Bob
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <
> paul.alfille@gmail.com>
> >>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except
> during
> >>>>>>>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating
> >> heat.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Paul Alfille K1PHA
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
> >>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered
> could
> >>>>>>> there
> >>>>>>>>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this
> >>>>> beast
> >>>>>>> has
> >>>>>>>>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency
> >>>>> Electronics.
> >>>>>>>>> Thanks Bob
> >>>>>>>>> Paul
> >>>>>>>>> WB8TSL
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> Hi
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low
> >>>>> enough
> >>>>>>> to
> >>>>>>>>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end
> >>>>>>> temperature
> >>>>>>>>>> on
> >>>>>>>>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would
> need
> >>>>> to be
> >>>>>>>>>> 5 to 10C above that.
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> Bob
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
> >>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
> >>>>>>>>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I
> am
> >>>>> only
> >>>>>>>>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and
> newer
> >>>>> URQ23
> >>>>>>>>> do
> >>>>>>>>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no
> >>>>> other
> >>>>>>>>>> clues
> >>>>>>>>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up.
> Sort
> >> of
> >>>>>>>>>>> supports the 2 oven theory.
> >>>>>>>>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to
> >> put
> >>>>> the
> >>>>>>>>>>> probe in.
> >>>>>>>>>>> Thanks everyone.
> >>>>>>>>>>> Paul
> >>>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org>
> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> Hi
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold
> >>>>> climate.
> >>>>>>>>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the
> oven
> >>>>> just
> >>>>>>>>>>>> doesn’t work.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
> >>>>>>>>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….).
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> Bob
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com>
> >>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Hello to the group.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha
> >> build.
> >>>>>>>>>> (Funny
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> that its labeled 15a)
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been
> able
> >> to
> >>>>>>>>> find
> >>>>>>>>>>>> over
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> the years.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a
> >>>>> manual
> >>>>>>>>>> and
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally
> >> wrong.
> >>>>>>>>> Using
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly
> >> well. I
> >>>>>>> was
> >>>>>>>>>>>> lucky
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs
> at
> >>>>>>>>> exactly
> >>>>>>>>>>>> 110
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of
> >>>>> supply
> >>>>>>>>> from
> >>>>>>>>>>>> +/-
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> 12-15V.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Thank you
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Paul
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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> >>>>>>>>>>>>
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> >>>>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
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> >>>>>
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> >>>>>
> >>>>
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EB
ed breya
Sat, Feb 13, 2021 3:50 AM
Well, 40 C is fairly close to 110 F. Maybe this is a special model
intended only for indoor, controlled room conditions - or outdoor, cold
climate only. Why? I dunno, but I can guess. Having both heaters set to
the same temperature makes sense, so the open end being the same as
inside would neutralize the differential. So, the question is what's the
temperature supposed to be. Really. Or, what was it used for? Really.
You have two labels there that seem close together, and close to what
you measure. Instead of assuming it's busted, assume it's right for now,
and think about what that could have been practically used for, and why
it may not have been necessary or desirable to use a "standard" kind.
Are there any date codes indicating the era? There's a good chance the
opamp has one.
Ed
Well, 40 C is fairly close to 110 F. Maybe this is a special model
intended only for indoor, controlled room conditions - or outdoor, cold
climate only. Why? I dunno, but I can guess. Having both heaters set to
the same temperature makes sense, so the open end being the same as
inside would neutralize the differential. So, the question is what's the
temperature supposed to be. Really. Or, what was it used for? Really.
You have two labels there that seem close together, and close to what
you measure. Instead of assuming it's busted, assume it's right for now,
and think about what that could have been practically used for, and why
it may not have been necessary or desirable to use a "standard" kind.
Are there any date codes indicating the era? There's a good chance the
opamp has one.
Ed