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AN/URQ-13 FE-15a oscillator question

PS
paul swed
Thu, Feb 11, 2021 7:18 PM

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. (Funny
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find over
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual and
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was lucky
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly 110
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from +/-
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL

Hello to the group. I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. (Funny that its labeled 15a) Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find over the years. However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual and schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was lucky that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly 110 degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from +/- 12-15V. Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? Thank you Paul WB8TSL
BK
Bob kb8tq
Thu, Feb 11, 2021 10:04 PM

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. (Funny
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find over
the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual and
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was lucky
that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly 110
degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from +/-
12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
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and follow the instructions there.

Hi 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate. For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just doesn’t work. 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. (think of 85C upper end ….). Bob > On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > Hello to the group. > I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. > Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. (Funny > that its labeled 15a) > Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find over > the years. > However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual and > schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using > voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was lucky > that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. > That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly 110 > degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from +/- > 12-15V. > Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? > Thank you > Paul > WB8TSL > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there.
PS
paul swed
Thu, Feb 11, 2021 10:55 PM

OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23 do
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other clues
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. (Funny
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find

over

the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual and
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was

lucky

that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly

110

degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from

+/-

12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


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OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected. Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23 do have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other clues to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of supports the 2 oven theory. Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the probe in. Thanks everyone. Paul WB8TSL On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > Hi > > 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate. > For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just > doesn’t work. > > 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. > (think of 85C upper end ….). > > Bob > > > On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > Hello to the group. > > I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. > > Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. (Funny > > that its labeled 15a) > > Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find > over > > the years. > > However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual and > > schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using > > voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was > lucky > > that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. > > That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly > 110 > > degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from > +/- > > 12-15V. > > Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? > > Thank you > > Paul > > WB8TSL > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > > To unsubscribe, go to > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > > and follow the instructions there. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there. >
BK
Bob kb8tq
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 12:59 AM

Hi

Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough to
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end temperature on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
5 to 10C above that.

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23 do
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other clues
to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. (Funny
that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find

over

the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual and
schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was

lucky

that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly

110

degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from

+/-

12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
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and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
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and follow the instructions there.

Hi Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough to run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end temperature on the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be 5 to 10C above that. Bob > On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected. > Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only > reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23 do > have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other clues > to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of > supports the 2 oven theory. > Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the > probe in. > Thanks everyone. > Paul > WB8TSL > > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > >> Hi >> >> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate. >> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just >> doesn’t work. >> >> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. >> (think of 85C upper end ….). >> >> Bob >> >>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>> Hello to the group. >>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. >>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. (Funny >>> that its labeled 15a) >>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find >> over >>> the years. >>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual and >>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using >>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was >> lucky >>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. >>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly >> 110 >>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from >> +/- >>> 12-15V. >>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? >>> Thank you >>> Paul >>> WB8TSL >>> _______________________________________________ >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>> and follow the instructions there. >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> and follow the instructions there. >> > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there.
PS
paul swed
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 2:12 AM

50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could there
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast has
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough to
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end temperature
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
5 to 10C above that.

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23 do
have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other

clues

to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.

(Funny

that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find

over

the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual

and

schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using
voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was

lucky

that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly

110

degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from

+/-

12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
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and follow the instructions there.


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50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could there have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast has never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics. Thanks Bob Paul WB8TSL On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > Hi > > Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough to > run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end temperature > on > the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be > 5 to 10C above that. > > Bob > > > On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected. > > Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only > > reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23 do > > have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other > clues > > to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of > > supports the 2 oven theory. > > Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the > > probe in. > > Thanks everyone. > > Paul > > WB8TSL > > > > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > > > >> Hi > >> > >> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate. > >> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just > >> doesn’t work. > >> > >> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. > >> (think of 85C upper end ….). > >> > >> Bob > >> > >>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > >>> > >>> Hello to the group. > >>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. > >>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. > (Funny > >>> that its labeled 15a) > >>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to find > >> over > >>> the years. > >>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual > and > >>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. Using > >>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was > >> lucky > >>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. > >>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at exactly > >> 110 > >>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply from > >> +/- > >>> 12-15V. > >>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? > >>> Thank you > >>> Paul > >>> WB8TSL > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>> To unsubscribe, go to > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>> and follow the instructions there. > >> > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >> To unsubscribe, go to > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >> and follow the instructions there. > >> > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > > To unsubscribe, go to > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > > and follow the instructions there. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there. >
PA
Paul Alfille
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 3:05 AM

Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.

Paul Alfille K1PHA

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could there
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast has
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough to
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end temperature
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
5 to 10C above that.

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23

do

have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other

clues

to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.

(Funny

that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to

find

over

the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual

and

schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.

Using

voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was

lucky

that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at

exactly

110

degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply

from

+/-

12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to

and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
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Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat. Paul Alfille K1PHA On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could there > have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast has > never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics. > Thanks Bob > Paul > WB8TSL > > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > > > Hi > > > > Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough to > > run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end temperature > > on > > the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be > > 5 to 10C above that. > > > > Bob > > > > > On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected. > > > Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only > > > reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23 > do > > > have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other > > clues > > > to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of > > > supports the 2 oven theory. > > > Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the > > > probe in. > > > Thanks everyone. > > > Paul > > > WB8TSL > > > > > > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > > > > > >> Hi > > >> > > >> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate. > > >> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just > > >> doesn’t work. > > >> > > >> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. > > >> (think of 85C upper end ….). > > >> > > >> Bob > > >> > > >>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > >>> > > >>> Hello to the group. > > >>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. > > >>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. > > (Funny > > >>> that its labeled 15a) > > >>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to > find > > >> over > > >>> the years. > > >>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual > > and > > >>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. > Using > > >>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was > > >> lucky > > >>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. > > >>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at > exactly > > >> 110 > > >>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply > from > > >> +/- > > >>> 12-15V. > > >>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? > > >>> Thank you > > >>> Paul > > >>> WB8TSL > > >>> _______________________________________________ > > >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > > >>> To unsubscribe, go to > > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > > >>> and follow the instructions there. > > >> > > >> > > >> _______________________________________________ > > >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > > >> To unsubscribe, go to > > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > > >> and follow the instructions there. > > >> > > > _______________________________________________ > > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > > > To unsubscribe, go to > > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > > > and follow the instructions there. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > > To unsubscribe, go to > > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > > and follow the instructions there. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there. >
PS
paul swed
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 2:22 PM

Paul
This is Paul to confuse the thread. I always thought the outer was cooler
also. Its becoming clear many things I have learned over the years might be
a bit off. I was thinking of looking at several other references that do
have documentation urq10 and 23. See what the maintenance documents say.
The good thing about military stuff is the manuals tend to have some good
details. Will see.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 10:39 PM Paul Alfille paul.alfille@gmail.com
wrote:

Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.

Paul Alfille K1PHA

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could there
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast

has

never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough

to

run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end

temperature

on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
5 to 10C above that.

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am

only

reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer

URQ23

do

have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other

clues

to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put

the

probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.

(Funny

that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to

find

over

the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a

manual

and

schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.

Using

voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I

was

lucky

that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at

exactly

110

degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply

from

+/-

12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


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Paul This is Paul to confuse the thread. I always thought the outer was cooler also. Its becoming clear many things I have learned over the years might be a bit off. I was thinking of looking at several other references that do have documentation urq10 and 23. See what the maintenance documents say. The good thing about military stuff is the manuals tend to have some good details. Will see. Paul WB8TSL On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 10:39 PM Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com> wrote: > Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during > warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat. > > Paul Alfille K1PHA > > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > > 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could there > > have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast > has > > never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics. > > Thanks Bob > > Paul > > WB8TSL > > > > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > > > > > Hi > > > > > > Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough > to > > > run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end > temperature > > > on > > > the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be > > > 5 to 10C above that. > > > > > > Bob > > > > > > > On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected. > > > > Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am > only > > > > reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer > URQ23 > > do > > > > have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other > > > clues > > > > to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of > > > > supports the 2 oven theory. > > > > Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put > the > > > > probe in. > > > > Thanks everyone. > > > > Paul > > > > WB8TSL > > > > > > > > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > > > > > > > >> Hi > > > >> > > > >> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate. > > > >> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just > > > >> doesn’t work. > > > >> > > > >> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. > > > >> (think of 85C upper end ….). > > > >> > > > >> Bob > > > >> > > > >>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> > wrote: > > > >>> > > > >>> Hello to the group. > > > >>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. > > > >>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. > > > (Funny > > > >>> that its labeled 15a) > > > >>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to > > find > > > >> over > > > >>> the years. > > > >>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a > manual > > > and > > > >>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. > > Using > > > >>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I > was > > > >> lucky > > > >>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. > > > >>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at > > exactly > > > >> 110 > > > >>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply > > from > > > >> +/- > > > >>> 12-15V. > > > >>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? > > > >>> Thank you > > > >>> Paul > > > >>> WB8TSL > > > >>> _______________________________________________ > > > >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > > > >>> To unsubscribe, go to > > > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > > > >>> and follow the instructions there. > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> _______________________________________________ > > > >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > > > >> To unsubscribe, go to > > > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > > > >> and follow the instructions there. > > > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > > > > To unsubscribe, go to > > > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > > > > and follow the instructions there. > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > > > To unsubscribe, go to > > > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > > > and follow the instructions there. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > > To unsubscribe, go to > > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > > and follow the instructions there. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there. >
BK
Bob kb8tq
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 3:12 PM

Hi

Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).

The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.

Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.

Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the crystal
being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.

Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner oven
components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the heater
is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex. You
do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….

One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have written
papers addressing that point :)

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille paul.alfille@gmail.com wrote:

Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.

Paul Alfille K1PHA

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could there
have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast has
never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough to
run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end temperature
on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
5 to 10C above that.

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23

do

have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other

clues

to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.

(Funny

that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to

find

over

the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual

and

schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.

Using

voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was

lucky

that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at

exactly

110

degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply

from

+/-

12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to

and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
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Hi Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away) and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ). The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway issue. Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you. Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the crystal being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient. Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner oven components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the heater is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex. You do not often see 85C upper end double ovens …. One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have* written papers addressing that point :) Bob > On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com> wrote: > > Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during > warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat. > > Paul Alfille K1PHA > > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > >> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could there >> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast has >> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics. >> Thanks Bob >> Paul >> WB8TSL >> >> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >> >>> Hi >>> >>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough to >>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end temperature >>> on >>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be >>> 5 to 10C above that. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected. >>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only >>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23 >> do >>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other >>> clues >>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of >>>> supports the 2 oven theory. >>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the >>>> probe in. >>>> Thanks everyone. >>>> Paul >>>> WB8TSL >>>> >>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Hi >>>>> >>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate. >>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just >>>>> doesn’t work. >>>>> >>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. >>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….). >>>>> >>>>> Bob >>>>> >>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> Hello to the group. >>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. >>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. >>> (Funny >>>>>> that its labeled 15a) >>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to >> find >>>>> over >>>>>> the years. >>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual >>> and >>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. >> Using >>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I was >>>>> lucky >>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. >>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at >> exactly >>>>> 110 >>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply >> from >>>>> +/- >>>>>> 12-15V. >>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? >>>>>> Thank you >>>>>> Paul >>>>>> WB8TSL >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to >>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> and follow the instructions there. >> > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there.
PS
paul swed
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 3:14 PM

Bad news for me. None of the military manuals states the temperatures of
the inner and outer ovens. Pretty sure various HP manuals never did either.
Regards
Paul.

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 9:22 AM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Paul
This is Paul to confuse the thread. I always thought the outer was cooler
also. Its becoming clear many things I have learned over the years might be
a bit off. I was thinking of looking at several other references that do
have documentation urq10 and 23. See what the maintenance documents say.
The good thing about military stuff is the manuals tend to have some good
details. Will see.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 10:39 PM Paul Alfille paul.alfille@gmail.com
wrote:

Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.

Paul Alfille K1PHA

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could

there

have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast

has

never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough

to

run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end

temperature

on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to

be

5 to 10C above that.

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am

only

reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer

URQ23

do

have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no

other

clues

to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put

the

probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold

climate.

For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven

just

doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.

(Funny

that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to

find

over

the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a

manual

and

schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.

Using

voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I

was

lucky

that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at

exactly

110

degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply

from

+/-

12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to

and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
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Bad news for me. None of the military manuals states the temperatures of the inner and outer ovens. Pretty sure various HP manuals never did either. Regards Paul. On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 9:22 AM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > Paul > This is Paul to confuse the thread. I always thought the outer was cooler > also. Its becoming clear many things I have learned over the years might be > a bit off. I was thinking of looking at several other references that do > have documentation urq10 and 23. See what the maintenance documents say. > The good thing about military stuff is the manuals tend to have some good > details. Will see. > Paul > WB8TSL > > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 10:39 PM Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com> > wrote: > >> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during >> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat. >> >> Paul Alfille K1PHA >> >> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> > 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could >> there >> > have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast >> has >> > never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics. >> > Thanks Bob >> > Paul >> > WB8TSL >> > >> > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >> > >> > > Hi >> > > >> > > Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough >> to >> > > run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end >> temperature >> > > on >> > > the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to >> be >> > > 5 to 10C above that. >> > > >> > > Bob >> > > >> > > > On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: >> > > > >> > > > OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected. >> > > > Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am >> only >> > > > reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer >> URQ23 >> > do >> > > > have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no >> other >> > > clues >> > > > to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of >> > > > supports the 2 oven theory. >> > > > Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put >> the >> > > > probe in. >> > > > Thanks everyone. >> > > > Paul >> > > > WB8TSL >> > > > >> > > > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >> > > > >> > > >> Hi >> > > >> >> > > >> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold >> climate. >> > > >> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven >> just >> > > >> doesn’t work. >> > > >> >> > > >> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. >> > > >> (think of 85C upper end ….). >> > > >> >> > > >> Bob >> > > >> >> > > >>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> >> wrote: >> > > >>> >> > > >>> Hello to the group. >> > > >>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. >> > > >>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. >> > > (Funny >> > > >>> that its labeled 15a) >> > > >>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to >> > find >> > > >> over >> > > >>> the years. >> > > >>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a >> manual >> > > and >> > > >>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. >> > Using >> > > >>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I >> was >> > > >> lucky >> > > >>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. >> > > >>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at >> > exactly >> > > >> 110 >> > > >>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply >> > from >> > > >> +/- >> > > >>> 12-15V. >> > > >>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? >> > > >>> Thank you >> > > >>> Paul >> > > >>> WB8TSL >> > > >>> _______________________________________________ >> > > >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> > > >>> To unsubscribe, go to >> > > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> > > >>> and follow the instructions there. >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> _______________________________________________ >> > > >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> > > >> To unsubscribe, go to >> > > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> > > >> and follow the instructions there. >> > > >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ >> > > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> > > > To unsubscribe, go to >> > > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> > > > and follow the instructions there. >> > > >> > > >> > > _______________________________________________ >> > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> > > To unsubscribe, go to >> > > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> > > and follow the instructions there. >> > > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> > To unsubscribe, go to >> > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> > and follow the instructions there. >> > >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> and follow the instructions there. >> >
PS
paul swed
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 3:29 PM

Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of the
outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It slowly
moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).

The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.

Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.

Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the crystal
being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.

Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner oven
components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the heater
is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex. You
do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….

One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have written
papers addressing that point :)

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille paul.alfille@gmail.com

wrote:

Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.

Paul Alfille K1PHA

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could

there

have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast

has

never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough

to

run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end

temperature

on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
5 to 10C above that.

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23

do

have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other

clues

to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.

(Funny

that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to

find

over

the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual

and

schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.

Using

voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I

was

lucky

that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at

exactly

110

degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply

from

+/-

12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


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Bob OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up. So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the radio room was shirt sleeve temps. But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of the outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is reasonably stable though. Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It slowly moves to the high side. No real details on anything and a total guess. Really appreciate the thoughts. Regards Paul WB8TSL On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > Hi > > Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above > the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away) > and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ). > > The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer > oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway > issue. > > Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are > using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you. > > Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the crystal > being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum > inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient. > > Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner oven > components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the heater > is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex. You > do not often see 85C upper end double ovens …. > > One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have* written > papers addressing that point :) > > Bob > > > On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com> > wrote: > > > > Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during > > warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat. > > > > Paul Alfille K1PHA > > > > On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > > >> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could > there > >> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast > has > >> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics. > >> Thanks Bob > >> Paul > >> WB8TSL > >> > >> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > >> > >>> Hi > >>> > >>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough > to > >>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end > temperature > >>> on > >>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be > >>> 5 to 10C above that. > >>> > >>> Bob > >>> > >>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > >>>> > >>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected. > >>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only > >>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23 > >> do > >>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other > >>> clues > >>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of > >>>> supports the 2 oven theory. > >>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the > >>>> probe in. > >>>> Thanks everyone. > >>>> Paul > >>>> WB8TSL > >>>> > >>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> Hi > >>>>> > >>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate. > >>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just > >>>>> doesn’t work. > >>>>> > >>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. > >>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….). > >>>>> > >>>>> Bob > >>>>> > >>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Hello to the group. > >>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. > >>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. > >>> (Funny > >>>>>> that its labeled 15a) > >>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to > >> find > >>>>> over > >>>>>> the years. > >>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual > >>> and > >>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. > >> Using > >>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I > was > >>>>> lucky > >>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. > >>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at > >> exactly > >>>>> 110 > >>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply > >> from > >>>>> +/- > >>>>>> 12-15V. > >>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? > >>>>>> Thank you > >>>>>> Paul > >>>>>> WB8TSL > >>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>> > >>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>> > >>> > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>> and follow the instructions there. > >>> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >> To unsubscribe, go to > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >> and follow the instructions there. > >> > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > > To unsubscribe, go to > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > > and follow the instructions there. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there. >
BK
Bob kb8tq
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 4:08 PM

Hi

If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places with
temperatures at or above that level.

If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear indoors,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end” temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.

This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper end spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and date
to the “era” of the URQ10.

In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C. If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of the
outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It slowly
moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).

The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.

Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.

Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the crystal
being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.

Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner oven
components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the heater
is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex. You
do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….

One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have written
papers addressing that point :)

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille paul.alfille@gmail.com

wrote:

Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.

Paul Alfille K1PHA

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could

there

have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast

has

never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough

to

run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end

temperature

on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be
5 to 10C above that.

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only
reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23

do

have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other

clues

to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the
probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate.
For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just
doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.

(Funny

that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to

find

over

the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual

and

schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.

Using

voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I

was

lucky

that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at

exactly

110

degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply

from

+/-

12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to

and follow the instructions there.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
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and follow the instructions there.


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To unsubscribe, go to

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and follow the instructions there.

Hi If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the URQ10 did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places with temperatures at or above that level. If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear *indoors*, a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end” temperature on ground gear in relatively benign installations. This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test equipment catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper end spec. The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both targeted pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and date to the “era” of the URQ10. In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C. If anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot. Bob > On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > Bob > OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up. > So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the > spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the > radio room was shirt sleeve temps. > But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of the > outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is > reasonably stable though. > Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the > position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch > position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It slowly > moves to the high side. > No real details on anything and a total guess. > Really appreciate the thoughts. > Regards > Paul > WB8TSL > > On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > >> Hi >> >> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above >> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away) >> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ). >> >> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer >> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway >> issue. >> >> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are >> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you. >> >> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the crystal >> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum >> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient. >> >> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner oven >> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the heater >> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex. You >> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens …. >> >> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have* written >> papers addressing that point :) >> >> Bob >> >>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com> >> wrote: >>> >>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during >>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat. >>> >>> Paul Alfille K1PHA >>> >>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could >> there >>>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this beast >> has >>>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics. >>>> Thanks Bob >>>> Paul >>>> WB8TSL >>>> >>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Hi >>>>> >>>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough >> to >>>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end >> temperature >>>>> on >>>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to be >>>>> 5 to 10C above that. >>>>> >>>>> Bob >>>>> >>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected. >>>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am only >>>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer URQ23 >>>> do >>>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no other >>>>> clues >>>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of >>>>>> supports the 2 oven theory. >>>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put the >>>>>> probe in. >>>>>> Thanks everyone. >>>>>> Paul >>>>>> WB8TSL >>>>>> >>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Hi >>>>>>> >>>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold climate. >>>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven just >>>>>>> doesn’t work. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. >>>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….). >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Bob >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Hello to the group. >>>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. >>>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. >>>>> (Funny >>>>>>>> that its labeled 15a) >>>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to >>>> find >>>>>>> over >>>>>>>> the years. >>>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a manual >>>>> and >>>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. >>>> Using >>>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I >> was >>>>>>> lucky >>>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. >>>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at >>>> exactly >>>>>>> 110 >>>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply >>>> from >>>>>>> +/- >>>>>>>> 12-15V. >>>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? >>>>>>>> Thank you >>>>>>>> Paul >>>>>>>> WB8TSL >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>> and follow the instructions there. >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> and follow the instructions there. >> > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there.
PS
paul swed
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 4:28 PM

Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa 1970s
were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator was
the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
Chuckle.
This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might show
up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a lead I
can measure the current of the inner oven....
Thanks

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the
URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places
with
temperatures at or above that level.

If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
indoors,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.

This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper end
spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and
date
to the “era” of the URQ10.

In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C. If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of

the

outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It

slowly

moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).

The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.

Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.

Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the

crystal

being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.

Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner oven
components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the

heater

is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex. You
do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….

One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have

written

papers addressing that point :)

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille paul.alfille@gmail.com

wrote:

Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.

Paul Alfille K1PHA

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could

there

have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this

beast

has

never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics.
Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough

to

run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end

temperature

on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to

be

5 to 10C above that.

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am

only

reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer

URQ23

do

have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no

other

clues

to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put

the

probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold

climate.

For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven

just

doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.

(Funny

that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to

find

over

the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a

manual

and

schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.

Using

voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I

was

lucky

that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at

exactly

110

degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply

from

+/-

12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


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Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa 1970s were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator was the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating. Chuckle. This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might show up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a lead I can measure the current of the inner oven.... Thanks On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > Hi > > If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the > URQ10 > did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places > with > temperatures at or above that level. > > If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear > *indoors*, > a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end” > temperature > on ground gear in relatively benign installations. > > This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test > equipment > catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper end > spec. > The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both > targeted > pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and > date > to the “era” of the URQ10. > > In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C. If > anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot. > > Bob > > > On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > Bob > > OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up. > > So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the > > spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the > > radio room was shirt sleeve temps. > > But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of > the > > outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is > > reasonably stable though. > > Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the > > position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch > > position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It > slowly > > moves to the high side. > > No real details on anything and a total guess. > > Really appreciate the thoughts. > > Regards > > Paul > > WB8TSL > > > > On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > > > >> Hi > >> > >> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above > >> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away) > >> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ). > >> > >> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer > >> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway > >> issue. > >> > >> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are > >> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you. > >> > >> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the > crystal > >> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum > >> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient. > >> > >> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner oven > >> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the > heater > >> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex. You > >> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens …. > >> > >> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have* > written > >> papers addressing that point :) > >> > >> Bob > >> > >>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com> > >> wrote: > >>> > >>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during > >>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat. > >>> > >>> Paul Alfille K1PHA > >>> > >>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > >>> > >>>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could > >> there > >>>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this > beast > >> has > >>>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency Electronics. > >>>> Thanks Bob > >>>> Paul > >>>> WB8TSL > >>>> > >>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> Hi > >>>>> > >>>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low enough > >> to > >>>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end > >> temperature > >>>>> on > >>>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need to > be > >>>>> 5 to 10C above that. > >>>>> > >>>>> Bob > >>>>> > >>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected. > >>>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am > only > >>>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer > URQ23 > >>>> do > >>>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no > other > >>>>> clues > >>>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of > >>>>>> supports the 2 oven theory. > >>>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put > the > >>>>>> probe in. > >>>>>> Thanks everyone. > >>>>>> Paul > >>>>>> WB8TSL > >>>>>> > >>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>>> Hi > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold > climate. > >>>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven > just > >>>>>>> doesn’t work. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. > >>>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….). > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> Bob > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> > wrote: > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Hello to the group. > >>>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. > >>>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. > >>>>> (Funny > >>>>>>>> that its labeled 15a) > >>>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to > >>>> find > >>>>>>> over > >>>>>>>> the years. > >>>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a > manual > >>>>> and > >>>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. > >>>> Using > >>>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I > >> was > >>>>>>> lucky > >>>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. > >>>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at > >>>> exactly > >>>>>>> 110 > >>>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of supply > >>>> from > >>>>>>> +/- > >>>>>>>> 12-15V. > >>>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? > >>>>>>>> Thank you > >>>>>>>> Paul > >>>>>>>> WB8TSL > >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>> > >>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>> > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>> To unsubscribe, go to > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>> and follow the instructions there. > >> > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >> To unsubscribe, go to > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >> and follow the instructions there. > >> > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > > To unsubscribe, go to > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > > and follow the instructions there. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there. >
PS
paul swed
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 6:07 PM

Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing
screws internally.
But appears both heater windings are ok.
So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to
be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
other places HP3801.
But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The inner
is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are the
offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of taking
out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
Regards
Paul

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa 1970s
were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator was
the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
Chuckle.
This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might show
up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a lead I
can measure the current of the inner oven....
Thanks

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the
URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places
with
temperatures at or above that level.

If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
indoors,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.

This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper
end spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and
date
to the “era” of the URQ10.

In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C.
If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of

the

outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It

slowly

moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).

The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.

Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.

Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the

crystal

being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.

Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner

oven

components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the

heater

is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex.

You

do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….

One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have

written

papers addressing that point :)

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille paul.alfille@gmail.com

wrote:

Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.

Paul Alfille K1PHA

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could

there

have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this

beast

has

never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency

Electronics.

Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low

enough

to

run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end

temperature

on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need

to be

5 to 10C above that.

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am

only

reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer

URQ23

do

have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no

other

clues

to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put

the

probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold

climate.

For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven

just

doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.

(Funny

that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to

find

over

the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a

manual

and

schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.

Using

voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I

was

lucky

that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at

exactly

110

degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of

supply

from

+/-

12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


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Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing screws internally. But appears both heater windings are ok. So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in other places HP3801. But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The inner is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are the offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC. Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of taking out the remainders to look and draw a schematic. Regards Paul On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa 1970s > were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt > sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator was > the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's > stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating. > Chuckle. > This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will > disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might show > up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a lead I > can measure the current of the inner oven.... > Thanks > > On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > >> Hi >> >> If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the >> URQ10 >> did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places >> with >> temperatures at or above that level. >> >> If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear >> *indoors*, >> a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end” >> temperature >> on ground gear in relatively benign installations. >> >> This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test >> equipment >> catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper >> end spec. >> The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both >> targeted >> pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and >> date >> to the “era” of the URQ10. >> >> In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C. >> If >> anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot. >> >> Bob >> >> > On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: >> > >> > Bob >> > OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up. >> > So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the >> > spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the >> > radio room was shirt sleeve temps. >> > But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of >> the >> > outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is >> > reasonably stable though. >> > Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the >> > position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch >> > position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It >> slowly >> > moves to the high side. >> > No real details on anything and a total guess. >> > Really appreciate the thoughts. >> > Regards >> > Paul >> > WB8TSL >> > >> > On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >> > >> >> Hi >> >> >> >> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above >> >> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away) >> >> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ). >> >> >> >> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer >> >> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway >> >> issue. >> >> >> >> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are >> >> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you. >> >> >> >> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the >> crystal >> >> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum >> >> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient. >> >> >> >> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner >> oven >> >> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the >> heater >> >> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex. >> You >> >> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens …. >> >> >> >> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have* >> written >> >> papers addressing that point :) >> >> >> >> Bob >> >> >> >>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com> >> >> wrote: >> >>> >> >>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during >> >>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat. >> >>> >> >>> Paul Alfille K1PHA >> >>> >> >>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> >> wrote: >> >>> >> >>>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could >> >> there >> >>>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this >> beast >> >> has >> >>>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency >> Electronics. >> >>>> Thanks Bob >> >>>> Paul >> >>>> WB8TSL >> >>>> >> >>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >> >>>> >> >>>>> Hi >> >>>>> >> >>>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low >> enough >> >> to >> >>>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end >> >> temperature >> >>>>> on >> >>>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need >> to be >> >>>>> 5 to 10C above that. >> >>>>> >> >>>>> Bob >> >>>>> >> >>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> >> wrote: >> >>>>>> >> >>>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected. >> >>>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am >> only >> >>>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer >> URQ23 >> >>>> do >> >>>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no >> other >> >>>>> clues >> >>>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of >> >>>>>> supports the 2 oven theory. >> >>>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put >> the >> >>>>>> probe in. >> >>>>>> Thanks everyone. >> >>>>>> Paul >> >>>>>> WB8TSL >> >>>>>> >> >>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >> >>>>>> >> >>>>>>> Hi >> >>>>>>> >> >>>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold >> climate. >> >>>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven >> just >> >>>>>>> doesn’t work. >> >>>>>>> >> >>>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. >> >>>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….). >> >>>>>>> >> >>>>>>> Bob >> >>>>>>> >> >>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> >> wrote: >> >>>>>>>> >> >>>>>>>> Hello to the group. >> >>>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. >> >>>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. >> >>>>> (Funny >> >>>>>>>> that its labeled 15a) >> >>>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to >> >>>> find >> >>>>>>> over >> >>>>>>>> the years. >> >>>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a >> manual >> >>>>> and >> >>>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. >> >>>> Using >> >>>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I >> >> was >> >>>>>>> lucky >> >>>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. >> >>>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at >> >>>> exactly >> >>>>>>> 110 >> >>>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of >> supply >> >>>> from >> >>>>>>> +/- >> >>>>>>>> 12-15V. >> >>>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? >> >>>>>>>> Thank you >> >>>>>>>> Paul >> >>>>>>>> WB8TSL >> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >> >>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >> >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> >>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >> >>>>>>> >> >>>>>>> >> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >> >>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> >>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >> >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> >>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >> >>>>>>> >> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >> >>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> >>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >> >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> >>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >> >>>>> >> >>>>> >> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >> >>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >> >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> >>>>> and follow the instructions there. >> >>>>> >> >>>> _______________________________________________ >> >>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> >>>> To unsubscribe, go to >> >>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> >>>> and follow the instructions there. >> >>>> >> >>> _______________________________________________ >> >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> >>> To unsubscribe, go to >> >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> >>> and follow the instructions there. >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> >> To unsubscribe, go to >> >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> >> and follow the instructions there. >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ >> > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> > To unsubscribe, go to >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> > and follow the instructions there. >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> and follow the instructions there. >> >
EB
ed breya
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 7:58 PM

Paul, from your description, it sounds like it's not an outer and inner
oven in the traditional sense, but that the extra heater is to improve
things at the weak spot in the Dewar system - the opening, where the
high-grade insulation is lost, and conductive things pass through. So
maybe it should be called a "dual oven" or "Dewar-compensator" or such.
The big question is how are they controlled, and what are the
set-points. It could be that the one by the opening is variable, being
set to somewhere between the desired inner temperature and ambient. Or,
maybe that one is supposed to be 110 deg F constant, and if ambient goes
higher, then so be it, and the specs may be looser. BTW are you sure the
"110" figure is supposed to indicate a numerical temperature (regardless
of units)?

Ed

Paul, from your description, it sounds like it's not an outer and inner oven in the traditional sense, but that the extra heater is to improve things at the weak spot in the Dewar system - the opening, where the high-grade insulation is lost, and conductive things pass through. So maybe it should be called a "dual oven" or "Dewar-compensator" or such. The big question is how are they controlled, and what are the set-points. It could be that the one by the opening is variable, being set to somewhere between the desired inner temperature and ambient. Or, maybe that one is supposed to be 110 deg F constant, and if ambient goes higher, then so be it, and the specs may be looser. BTW are you sure the "110" figure is supposed to indicate a numerical temperature (regardless of units)? Ed
BK
Bob kb8tq
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 8:28 PM

Hi

In a dewar flask OCXO, all the heat loss is out the “mouth” of the
flask. There is essentially zero energy flow between the inner and outer
walls via the “vacuum filled” gap between them.

The net result is that if you heat a “plug” in the flask, everything past that
plug will be at the same temperature. To do a double oven with a flask,
you put two “plugs” in it.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing
screws internally.
But appears both heater windings are ok.
So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to
be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
other places HP3801.
But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The inner
is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are the
offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of taking
out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
Regards
Paul

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa 1970s
were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator was
the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
Chuckle.
This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might show
up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a lead I
can measure the current of the inner oven....
Thanks

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the
URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places
with
temperatures at or above that level.

If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
indoors,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.

This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper
end spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and
date
to the “era” of the URQ10.

In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C.
If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of

the

outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It

slowly

moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).

The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.

Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.

Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the

crystal

being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.

Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner

oven

components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the

heater

is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex.

You

do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….

One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have

written

papers addressing that point :)

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille paul.alfille@gmail.com

wrote:

Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.

Paul Alfille K1PHA

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could

there

have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this

beast

has

never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency

Electronics.

Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low

enough

to

run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end

temperature

on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need

to be

5 to 10C above that.

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am

only

reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer

URQ23

do

have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no

other

clues

to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put

the

probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold

climate.

For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven

just

doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.

(Funny

that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to

find

over

the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a

manual

and

schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.

Using

voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I

was

lucky

that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at

exactly

110

degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of

supply

from

+/-

12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


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To unsubscribe, go to

and follow the instructions there.


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Hi In a dewar flask OCXO, all the heat loss is out the “mouth” of the flask. There is essentially zero energy flow between the inner and outer walls via the “vacuum filled” gap between them. The net result is that if you heat a “plug” in the flask, everything past that plug will be at the same temperature. To do a double oven with a flask, you put two “plugs” in it. Bob > On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing > screws internally. > But appears both heater windings are ok. > So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to > be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in > other places HP3801. > But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The inner > is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two > completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the > actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are the > offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC. > Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of taking > out the remainders to look and draw a schematic. > Regards > Paul > > On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > >> Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa 1970s >> were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt >> sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator was >> the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's >> stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating. >> Chuckle. >> This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will >> disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might show >> up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a lead I >> can measure the current of the inner oven.... >> Thanks >> >> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >> >>> Hi >>> >>> If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the >>> URQ10 >>> did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places >>> with >>> temperatures at or above that level. >>> >>> If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear >>> *indoors*, >>> a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end” >>> temperature >>> on ground gear in relatively benign installations. >>> >>> This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test >>> equipment >>> catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper >>> end spec. >>> The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both >>> targeted >>> pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and >>> date >>> to the “era” of the URQ10. >>> >>> In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C. >>> If >>> anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>>> On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up. >>>> So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the >>>> spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the >>>> radio room was shirt sleeve temps. >>>> But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of >>> the >>>> outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is >>>> reasonably stable though. >>>> Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the >>>> position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch >>>> position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It >>> slowly >>>> moves to the high side. >>>> No real details on anything and a total guess. >>>> Really appreciate the thoughts. >>>> Regards >>>> Paul >>>> WB8TSL >>>> >>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Hi >>>>> >>>>> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above >>>>> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away) >>>>> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ). >>>>> >>>>> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer >>>>> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway >>>>> issue. >>>>> >>>>> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are >>>>> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you. >>>>> >>>>> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the >>> crystal >>>>> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum >>>>> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient. >>>>> >>>>> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner >>> oven >>>>> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the >>> heater >>>>> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex. >>> You >>>>> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens …. >>>>> >>>>> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have* >>> written >>>>> papers addressing that point :) >>>>> >>>>> Bob >>>>> >>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com> >>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during >>>>>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat. >>>>>> >>>>>> Paul Alfille K1PHA >>>>>> >>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> >>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could >>>>> there >>>>>>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this >>> beast >>>>> has >>>>>>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency >>> Electronics. >>>>>>> Thanks Bob >>>>>>> Paul >>>>>>> WB8TSL >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Hi >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low >>> enough >>>>> to >>>>>>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end >>>>> temperature >>>>>>>> on >>>>>>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need >>> to be >>>>>>>> 5 to 10C above that. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Bob >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> >>> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected. >>>>>>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am >>> only >>>>>>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer >>> URQ23 >>>>>>> do >>>>>>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no >>> other >>>>>>>> clues >>>>>>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of >>>>>>>>> supports the 2 oven theory. >>>>>>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put >>> the >>>>>>>>> probe in. >>>>>>>>> Thanks everyone. >>>>>>>>> Paul >>>>>>>>> WB8TSL >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Hi >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold >>> climate. >>>>>>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven >>> just >>>>>>>>>> doesn’t work. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. >>>>>>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….). >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Bob >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> >>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Hello to the group. >>>>>>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. >>>>>>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. >>>>>>>> (Funny >>>>>>>>>>> that its labeled 15a) >>>>>>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to >>>>>>> find >>>>>>>>>> over >>>>>>>>>>> the years. >>>>>>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a >>> manual >>>>>>>> and >>>>>>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. >>>>>>> Using >>>>>>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I >>>>> was >>>>>>>>>> lucky >>>>>>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. >>>>>>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at >>>>>>> exactly >>>>>>>>>> 110 >>>>>>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of >>> supply >>>>>>> from >>>>>>>>>> +/- >>>>>>>>>>> 12-15V. >>>>>>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? >>>>>>>>>>> Thank you >>>>>>>>>>> Paul >>>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL >>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to >>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >> > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there.
BK
Bob kb8tq
Fri, Feb 12, 2021 9:53 PM

Hi

According to table 1-2 in:

http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf

The URQ-9 and URQ-10 both were rated for 0 to 50C.

Per:

http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf

The URQ-23 was rated for 0 to 50C

I’d say it’s a pretty likely that the URQ-13 was rated to operate over
0 to 50C. It went into the same locations and did the same thing as the
other devices.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing
screws internally.
But appears both heater windings are ok.
So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to
be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
other places HP3801.
But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The inner
is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are the
offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of taking
out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
Regards
Paul

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa 1970s
were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator was
the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
Chuckle.
This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might show
up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a lead I
can measure the current of the inner oven....
Thanks

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the
URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places
with
temperatures at or above that level.

If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
indoors,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.

This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper
end spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and
date
to the “era” of the URQ10.

In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C.
If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of

the

outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is
reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It

slowly

moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away)
and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).

The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.

Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are
using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.

Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the

crystal

being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient.

Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner

oven

components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the

heater

is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex.

You

do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….

One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have

written

papers addressing that point :)

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille paul.alfille@gmail.com

wrote:

Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat.

Paul Alfille K1PHA

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could

there

have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this

beast

has

never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency

Electronics.

Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low

enough

to

run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end

temperature

on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need

to be

5 to 10C above that.

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am

only

reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer

URQ23

do

have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no

other

clues

to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of
supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put

the

probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold

climate.

For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven

just

doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build.

(Funny

that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to

find

over

the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a

manual

and

schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong.

Using

voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I

was

lucky

that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at

exactly

110

degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of

supply

from

+/-

12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


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Hi According to table 1-2 in: http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf <http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf> The URQ-9 and URQ-10 both were rated for 0 to 50C. Per: http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf <http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf> The URQ-23 was rated for 0 to 50C I’d say it’s a pretty likely that the URQ-13 was rated to operate over 0 to 50C. It went into the same locations and did the same thing as the other devices. Bob > On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing > screws internally. > But appears both heater windings are ok. > So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to > be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in > other places HP3801. > But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The inner > is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two > completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the > actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are the > offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC. > Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of taking > out the remainders to look and draw a schematic. > Regards > Paul > > On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > >> Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa 1970s >> were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt >> sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator was >> the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's >> stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating. >> Chuckle. >> This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will >> disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might show >> up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a lead I >> can measure the current of the inner oven.... >> Thanks >> >> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >> >>> Hi >>> >>> If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of the >>> URQ10 >>> did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to places >>> with >>> temperatures at or above that level. >>> >>> If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear >>> *indoors*, >>> a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end” >>> temperature >>> on ground gear in relatively benign installations. >>> >>> This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test >>> equipment >>> catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper >>> end spec. >>> The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both >>> targeted >>> pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) and >>> date >>> to the “era” of the URQ10. >>> >>> In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C. >>> If >>> anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>>> On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up. >>>> So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the >>>> spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the >>>> radio room was shirt sleeve temps. >>>> But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of >>> the >>>> outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing is >>>> reasonably stable though. >>>> Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the >>>> position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch >>>> position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It >>> slowly >>>> moves to the high side. >>>> No real details on anything and a total guess. >>>> Really appreciate the thoughts. >>>> Regards >>>> Paul >>>> WB8TSL >>>> >>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Hi >>>>> >>>>> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above >>>>> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs away) >>>>> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ). >>>>> >>>>> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer >>>>> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway >>>>> issue. >>>>> >>>>> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you are >>>>> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you. >>>>> >>>>> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the >>> crystal >>>>> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum >>>>> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum ambient. >>>>> >>>>> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner >>> oven >>>>> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the >>> heater >>>>> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex. >>> You >>>>> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens …. >>>>> >>>>> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have* >>> written >>>>> papers addressing that point :) >>>>> >>>>> Bob >>>>> >>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com> >>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during >>>>>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating heat. >>>>>> >>>>>> Paul Alfille K1PHA >>>>>> >>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> >>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could >>>>> there >>>>>>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this >>> beast >>>>> has >>>>>>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency >>> Electronics. >>>>>>> Thanks Bob >>>>>>> Paul >>>>>>> WB8TSL >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Hi >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low >>> enough >>>>> to >>>>>>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end >>>>> temperature >>>>>>>> on >>>>>>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need >>> to be >>>>>>>> 5 to 10C above that. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Bob >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> >>> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected. >>>>>>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am >>> only >>>>>>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer >>> URQ23 >>>>>>> do >>>>>>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no >>> other >>>>>>>> clues >>>>>>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort of >>>>>>>>> supports the 2 oven theory. >>>>>>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to put >>> the >>>>>>>>> probe in. >>>>>>>>> Thanks everyone. >>>>>>>>> Paul >>>>>>>>> WB8TSL >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Hi >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold >>> climate. >>>>>>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven >>> just >>>>>>>>>> doesn’t work. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. >>>>>>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….). >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Bob >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> >>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Hello to the group. >>>>>>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. >>>>>>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha build. >>>>>>>> (Funny >>>>>>>>>>> that its labeled 15a) >>>>>>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able to >>>>>>> find >>>>>>>>>> over >>>>>>>>>>> the years. >>>>>>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a >>> manual >>>>>>>> and >>>>>>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally wrong. >>>>>>> Using >>>>>>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly well. I >>>>> was >>>>>>>>>> lucky >>>>>>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. >>>>>>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at >>>>>>> exactly >>>>>>>>>> 110 >>>>>>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of >>> supply >>>>>>> from >>>>>>>>>> +/- >>>>>>>>>>> 12-15V. >>>>>>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? >>>>>>>>>>> Thank you >>>>>>>>>>> Paul >>>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL >>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to >>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >> > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there.
PS
paul swed
Sat, Feb 13, 2021 12:25 AM

The temps I am reading are with a K thermocouple so pretty accurate. I had
simply slid the thermocouple into the flask on the outer edge of the
ovens.The assembly is out of the flask now and both inner and outer are
heating. Will see what they do. Both seem to be heating at about the same
rate. So the great news is the oven windings are not bad. I do see a very
significant voltage difference on two leads that I might guess matter. But
still decoding and reverse engineering everything.

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 5:20 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

According to table 1-2 in:

http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf <
http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf>

The URQ-9 and URQ-10 both were rated for 0 to 50C.

Per:

http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf <
http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf>

The URQ-23 was rated for 0 to 50C

I’d say it’s a pretty likely that the URQ-13 was rated to operate over
0 to 50C. It went into the same locations and did the same thing as the
other devices.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing
screws internally.
But appears both heater windings are ok.
So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to
be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
other places HP3801.
But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The

inner

is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are

the

offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of

taking

out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
Regards
Paul

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa

1970s

were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator

was

the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
Chuckle.
This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might

show

up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a

lead I

can measure the current of the inner oven....
Thanks

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of

the

URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to

places

with
temperatures at or above that level.

If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
indoors,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.

This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper
end spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …)

and

date
to the “era” of the URQ10.

In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C.
If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of

the

outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing

is

reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It

slowly

moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs

away)

and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).

The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.

Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you

are

using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.

Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the

crystal

being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum

ambient.

Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner

oven

components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the

heater

is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex.

You

do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….

One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have

written

papers addressing that point :)

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille paul.alfille@gmail.com

wrote:

Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating

heat.

Paul Alfille K1PHA

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could

there

have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this

beast

has

never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency

Electronics.

Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low

enough

to

run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end

temperature

on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need

to be

5 to 10C above that.

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am

only

reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer

URQ23

do

have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no

other

clues

to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort

of

supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to

put

the

probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold

climate.

For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven

just

doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha

build.

(Funny

that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able

to

find

over

the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a

manual

and

schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally

wrong.

Using

voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly

well. I

was

lucky

that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at

exactly

110

degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of

supply

from

+/-

12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


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The temps I am reading are with a K thermocouple so pretty accurate. I had simply slid the thermocouple into the flask on the outer edge of the ovens.The assembly is out of the flask now and both inner and outer are heating. Will see what they do. Both seem to be heating at about the same rate. So the great news is the oven windings are not bad. I do see a very significant voltage difference on two leads that I might guess matter. But still decoding and reverse engineering everything. On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 5:20 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > Hi > > According to table 1-2 in: > > http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf < > http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf> > > The URQ-9 and URQ-10 both were rated for 0 to 50C. > > Per: > > http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf < > http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf> > > The URQ-23 was rated for 0 to 50C > > I’d say it’s a pretty likely that the URQ-13 was rated to operate over > 0 to 50C. It went into the same locations and did the same thing as the > other devices. > > Bob > > > > On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing > > screws internally. > > But appears both heater windings are ok. > > So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to > > be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in > > other places HP3801. > > But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The > inner > > is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two > > completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the > > actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are > the > > offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC. > > Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of > taking > > out the remainders to look and draw a schematic. > > Regards > > Paul > > > > On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > > >> Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa > 1970s > >> were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt > >> sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator > was > >> the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's > >> stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating. > >> Chuckle. > >> This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will > >> disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might > show > >> up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a > lead I > >> can measure the current of the inner oven.... > >> Thanks > >> > >> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > >> > >>> Hi > >>> > >>> If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of > the > >>> URQ10 > >>> did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to > places > >>> with > >>> temperatures at or above that level. > >>> > >>> If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear > >>> *indoors*, > >>> a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end” > >>> temperature > >>> on ground gear in relatively benign installations. > >>> > >>> This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test > >>> equipment > >>> catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper > >>> end spec. > >>> The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both > >>> targeted > >>> pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) > and > >>> date > >>> to the “era” of the URQ10. > >>> > >>> In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C. > >>> If > >>> anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot. > >>> > >>> Bob > >>> > >>>> On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > >>>> > >>>> Bob > >>>> OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up. > >>>> So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the > >>>> spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the > >>>> radio room was shirt sleeve temps. > >>>> But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of > >>> the > >>>> outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing > is > >>>> reasonably stable though. > >>>> Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the > >>>> position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch > >>>> position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It > >>> slowly > >>>> moves to the high side. > >>>> No real details on anything and a total guess. > >>>> Really appreciate the thoughts. > >>>> Regards > >>>> Paul > >>>> WB8TSL > >>>> > >>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> Hi > >>>>> > >>>>> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above > >>>>> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs > away) > >>>>> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ). > >>>>> > >>>>> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer > >>>>> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway > >>>>> issue. > >>>>> > >>>>> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you > are > >>>>> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you. > >>>>> > >>>>> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the > >>> crystal > >>>>> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum > >>>>> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum > ambient. > >>>>> > >>>>> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner > >>> oven > >>>>> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the > >>> heater > >>>>> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex. > >>> You > >>>>> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens …. > >>>>> > >>>>> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have* > >>> written > >>>>> papers addressing that point :) > >>>>> > >>>>> Bob > >>>>> > >>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com> > >>>>> wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during > >>>>>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating > heat. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Paul Alfille K1PHA > >>>>>> > >>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> > >>> wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could > >>>>> there > >>>>>>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this > >>> beast > >>>>> has > >>>>>>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency > >>> Electronics. > >>>>>>> Thanks Bob > >>>>>>> Paul > >>>>>>> WB8TSL > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Hi > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low > >>> enough > >>>>> to > >>>>>>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end > >>>>> temperature > >>>>>>>> on > >>>>>>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need > >>> to be > >>>>>>>> 5 to 10C above that. > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Bob > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> > >>> wrote: > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected. > >>>>>>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am > >>> only > >>>>>>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer > >>> URQ23 > >>>>>>> do > >>>>>>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no > >>> other > >>>>>>>> clues > >>>>>>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort > of > >>>>>>>>> supports the 2 oven theory. > >>>>>>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to > put > >>> the > >>>>>>>>> probe in. > >>>>>>>>> Thanks everyone. > >>>>>>>>> Paul > >>>>>>>>> WB8TSL > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> Hi > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold > >>> climate. > >>>>>>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven > >>> just > >>>>>>>>>> doesn’t work. > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. > >>>>>>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….). > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> Bob > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> > >>> wrote: > >>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> Hello to the group. > >>>>>>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. > >>>>>>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha > build. > >>>>>>>> (Funny > >>>>>>>>>>> that its labeled 15a) > >>>>>>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able > to > >>>>>>> find > >>>>>>>>>> over > >>>>>>>>>>> the years. > >>>>>>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a > >>> manual > >>>>>>>> and > >>>>>>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally > wrong. > >>>>>>> Using > >>>>>>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly > well. I > >>>>> was > >>>>>>>>>> lucky > >>>>>>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. > >>>>>>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at > >>>>>>> exactly > >>>>>>>>>> 110 > >>>>>>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of > >>> supply > >>>>>>> from > >>>>>>>>>> +/- > >>>>>>>>>>> 12-15V. > >>>>>>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? > >>>>>>>>>>> Thank you > >>>>>>>>>>> Paul > >>>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL > >>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>> > >>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>> > >>> > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>> and follow the instructions there. > >>> > >> > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > > To unsubscribe, go to > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > > and follow the instructions there. > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there. >
BK
Bob kb8tq
Sat, Feb 13, 2021 2:08 AM

Hi

If you are reading something below 60C on a dewar flask outer oven …. it
is borken….. very broken.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2021, at 7:25 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

The temps I am reading are with a K thermocouple so pretty accurate. I had
simply slid the thermocouple into the flask on the outer edge of the
ovens.The assembly is out of the flask now and both inner and outer are
heating. Will see what they do. Both seem to be heating at about the same
rate. So the great news is the oven windings are not bad. I do see a very
significant voltage difference on two leads that I might guess matter. But
still decoding and reverse engineering everything.

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 5:20 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

According to table 1-2 in:

http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf <
http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf>

The URQ-9 and URQ-10 both were rated for 0 to 50C.

Per:

http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf <
http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf>

The URQ-23 was rated for 0 to 50C

I’d say it’s a pretty likely that the URQ-13 was rated to operate over
0 to 50C. It went into the same locations and did the same thing as the
other devices.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing
screws internally.
But appears both heater windings are ok.
So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to
be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
other places HP3801.
But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The

inner

is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are

the

offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of

taking

out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
Regards
Paul

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa

1970s

were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator

was

the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
Chuckle.
This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might

show

up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a

lead I

can measure the current of the inner oven....
Thanks

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of

the

URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to

places

with
temperatures at or above that level.

If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear
indoors,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end”
temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.

This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper
end spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …)

and

date
to the “era” of the URQ10.

In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C.
If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the
spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the
radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of

the

outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing

is

reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the
position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It

slowly

moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs

away)

and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).

The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway
issue.

Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you

are

using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.

Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the

crystal

being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the maximum
inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum

ambient.

Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner

oven

components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the

heater

is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more complex.

You

do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….

One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have

written

papers addressing that point :)

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille paul.alfille@gmail.com

wrote:

Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during
warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating

heat.

Paul Alfille K1PHA

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could

there

have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this

beast

has

never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency

Electronics.

Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low

enough

to

run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end

temperature

on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need

to be

5 to 10C above that.

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am

only

reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer

URQ23

do

have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no

other

clues

to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort

of

supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to

put

the

probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold

climate.

For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven

just

doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha

build.

(Funny

that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able

to

find

over

the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a

manual

and

schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally

wrong.

Using

voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly

well. I

was

lucky

that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at

exactly

110

degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of

supply

from

+/-

12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


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Hi If you are reading something below 60C on a dewar flask outer oven …. it is borken….. very broken. Bob > On Feb 12, 2021, at 7:25 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > The temps I am reading are with a K thermocouple so pretty accurate. I had > simply slid the thermocouple into the flask on the outer edge of the > ovens.The assembly is out of the flask now and both inner and outer are > heating. Will see what they do. Both seem to be heating at about the same > rate. So the great news is the oven windings are not bad. I do see a very > significant voltage difference on two leads that I might guess matter. But > still decoding and reverse engineering everything. > > On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 5:20 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > >> Hi >> >> According to table 1-2 in: >> >> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf < >> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf> >> >> The URQ-9 and URQ-10 both were rated for 0 to 50C. >> >> Per: >> >> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf < >> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf> >> >> The URQ-23 was rated for 0 to 50C >> >> I’d say it’s a pretty likely that the URQ-13 was rated to operate over >> 0 to 50C. It went into the same locations and did the same thing as the >> other devices. >> >> Bob >> >> >>> On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>> Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint missing >>> screws internally. >>> But appears both heater windings are ok. >>> So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this to >>> be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in >>> other places HP3801. >>> But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The >> inner >>> is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two >>> completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the >>> actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are >> the >>> offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC. >>> Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of >> taking >>> out the remainders to look and draw a schematic. >>> Regards >>> Paul >>> >>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>>> Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa >> 1970s >>>> were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt >>>> sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator >> was >>>> the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's >>>> stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating. >>>> Chuckle. >>>> This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will >>>> disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might >> show >>>> up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a >> lead I >>>> can measure the current of the inner oven.... >>>> Thanks >>>> >>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Hi >>>>> >>>>> If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of >> the >>>>> URQ10 >>>>> did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to >> places >>>>> with >>>>> temperatures at or above that level. >>>>> >>>>> If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics gear >>>>> *indoors*, >>>>> a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper end” >>>>> temperature >>>>> on ground gear in relatively benign installations. >>>>> >>>>> This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test >>>>> equipment >>>>> catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C upper >>>>> end spec. >>>>> The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both >>>>> targeted >>>>> pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) >> and >>>>> date >>>>> to the “era” of the URQ10. >>>>> >>>>> In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to 55C. >>>>> If >>>>> anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot. >>>>> >>>>> Bob >>>>> >>>>>> On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> Bob >>>>>> OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up. >>>>>> So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in the >>>>>> spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics the >>>>>> radio room was shirt sleeve temps. >>>>>> But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside of >>>>> the >>>>>> outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing >> is >>>>>> reasonably stable though. >>>>>> Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that the >>>>>> position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch >>>>>> position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It >>>>> slowly >>>>>> moves to the high side. >>>>>> No real details on anything and a total guess. >>>>>> Really appreciate the thoughts. >>>>>> Regards >>>>>> Paul >>>>>> WB8TSL >>>>>> >>>>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Hi >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above >>>>>>> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs >> away) >>>>>>> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ). >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer >>>>>>> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same runaway >>>>>>> issue. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you >> are >>>>>>> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the >>>>> crystal >>>>>>> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the maximum >>>>>>> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum >> ambient. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner >>>>> oven >>>>>>> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the >>>>> heater >>>>>>> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more complex. >>>>> You >>>>>>> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens …. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have* >>>>> written >>>>>>> papers addressing that point :) >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Bob >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <paul.alfille@gmail.com> >>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except during >>>>>>>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating >> heat. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Paul Alfille K1PHA >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> >>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered could >>>>>>> there >>>>>>>>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this >>>>> beast >>>>>>> has >>>>>>>>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency >>>>> Electronics. >>>>>>>>> Thanks Bob >>>>>>>>> Paul >>>>>>>>> WB8TSL >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Hi >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low >>>>> enough >>>>>>> to >>>>>>>>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end >>>>>>> temperature >>>>>>>>>> on >>>>>>>>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would need >>>>> to be >>>>>>>>>> 5 to 10C above that. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Bob >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> >>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected. >>>>>>>>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I am >>>>> only >>>>>>>>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and newer >>>>> URQ23 >>>>>>>>> do >>>>>>>>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no >>>>> other >>>>>>>>>> clues >>>>>>>>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. Sort >> of >>>>>>>>>>> supports the 2 oven theory. >>>>>>>>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to >> put >>>>> the >>>>>>>>>>> probe in. >>>>>>>>>>> Thanks everyone. >>>>>>>>>>> Paul >>>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Hi >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold >>>>> climate. >>>>>>>>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the oven >>>>> just >>>>>>>>>>>> doesn’t work. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. >>>>>>>>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….). >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Bob >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> >>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Hello to the group. >>>>>>>>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. >>>>>>>>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha >> build. >>>>>>>>>> (Funny >>>>>>>>>>>>> that its labeled 15a) >>>>>>>>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been able >> to >>>>>>>>> find >>>>>>>>>>>> over >>>>>>>>>>>>> the years. >>>>>>>>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a >>>>> manual >>>>>>>>>> and >>>>>>>>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally >> wrong. >>>>>>>>> Using >>>>>>>>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly >> well. I >>>>>>> was >>>>>>>>>>>> lucky >>>>>>>>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. >>>>>>>>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs at >>>>>>>>> exactly >>>>>>>>>>>> 110 >>>>>>>>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of >>>>> supply >>>>>>>>> from >>>>>>>>>>>> +/- >>>>>>>>>>>>> 12-15V. >>>>>>>>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? >>>>>>>>>>>>> Thank you >>>>>>>>>>>>> Paul >>>>>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL >>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>> >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >>> and follow the instructions there. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com >> and follow the instructions there. >> > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there.
PS
paul swed
Sat, Feb 13, 2021 2:45 AM

I see a glass tape on the inner oven with writing "40.0". Thats it.
Assuming C its a long way off.The flask is fine the ovens are heating to
110F. Both of them. So somethings wrong. Interesting as I peel something
like caulking off the outer board I see what looks like a opamp. But its a
FE house number. The top of the can has NSC. The old national semiconductor
label. Could be a LM709 class opamp.

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 9:12 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

If you are reading something below 60C on a dewar flask outer oven …. it
is borken….. very broken.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2021, at 7:25 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

The temps I am reading are with a K thermocouple so pretty accurate. I

had

simply slid the thermocouple into the flask on the outer edge of the
ovens.The assembly is out of the flask now and both inner and outer are
heating. Will see what they do. Both seem to be heating at about the same
rate. So the great news is the oven windings are not bad. I do see a very
significant voltage difference on two leads that I might guess matter.

But

still decoding and reverse engineering everything.

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 5:20 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

According to table 1-2 in:

http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf <
http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf>

The URQ-9 and URQ-10 both were rated for 0 to 50C.

Per:

http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf <
http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf>

The URQ-23 was rated for 0 to 50C

I’d say it’s a pretty likely that the URQ-13 was rated to operate over
0 to 50C. It went into the same locations and did the same thing as the
other devices.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com wrote:

Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint

missing

screws internally.
But appears both heater windings are ok.
So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this

to

be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in
other places HP3801.
But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The

inner

is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two
completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the
actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are

the

offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC.
Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of

taking

out the remainders to look and draw a schematic.
Regards
Paul

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa

1970s

were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt
sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator

was

the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's
stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating.
Chuckle.
This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will
disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might

show

up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a

lead I

can measure the current of the inner oven....
Thanks

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of

the

URQ10
did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to

places

with
temperatures at or above that level.

If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics

gear

indoors,
a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper

end”

temperature
on ground gear in relatively benign installations.

This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test
equipment
catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C

upper

end spec.
The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both
targeted
pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …)

and

date
to the “era” of the URQ10.

In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to

55C.

If
anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot.

Bob

On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

Bob
OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up.
So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in

the

spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics

the

radio room was shirt sleeve temps.
But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside

of

the

outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing

is

reasonably stable though.
Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that

the

position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch
position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It

slowly

moves to the high side.
No real details on anything and a total guess.
Really appreciate the thoughts.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above
the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs

away)

and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ).

The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer
oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same

runaway

issue.

Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you

are

using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you.

Your inner oven also is impacted by the turn temperature on the

crystal

being used. This might have a 20C range. That would put the

maximum

inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum

ambient.

Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner

oven

components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the

heater

is pretty easy, derating everything in there is much more

complex.

You

do not often see 85C upper end double ovens ….

One could also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members have

written

papers addressing that point :)

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille <

wrote:

Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except

during

warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating

heat.

Paul Alfille K1PHA

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered

could

there

have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this

beast

has

never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency

Electronics.

Thanks Bob
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org wrote:

Hi

Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low

enough

to

run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end

temperature

on
the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would

need

to be

5 to 10C above that.

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected.
Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I

am

only

reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and

newer

URQ23

do

have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no

other

clues

to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up.

Sort

of

supports the 2 oven theory.
Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to

put

the

probe in.
Thanks everyone.
Paul
WB8TSL

On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq kb8tq@n1k.org

wrote:

Hi

110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold

climate.

For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the

oven

just

doesn’t work.

110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment.
(think of 85C upper end ….).

Bob

On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed paulswedb@gmail.com

wrote:

Hello to the group.
I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years.
Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha

build.

(Funny

that its labeled 15a)
Looking online there is no documentation that I have been

able

to

find

over

the years.
However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a

manual

and

schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally

wrong.

Using

voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly

well. I

was

lucky

that I didn't destroy something with my original guess.
That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs

at

exactly

110

degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of

supply

from

+/-

12-15V.
Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all?
Thank you
Paul
WB8TSL


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I see a glass tape on the inner oven with writing "40.0". Thats it. Assuming C its a long way off.The flask is fine the ovens are heating to 110F. Both of them. So somethings wrong. Interesting as I peel something like caulking off the outer board I see what looks like a opamp. But its a FE house number. The top of the can has NSC. The old national semiconductor label. Could be a LM709 class opamp. On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 9:12 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > Hi > > If you are reading something below 60C on a dewar flask outer oven …. it > is borken….. very broken. > > Bob > > > On Feb 12, 2021, at 7:25 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > The temps I am reading are with a K thermocouple so pretty accurate. I > had > > simply slid the thermocouple into the flask on the outer edge of the > > ovens.The assembly is out of the flask now and both inner and outer are > > heating. Will see what they do. Both seem to be heating at about the same > > rate. So the great news is the oven windings are not bad. I do see a very > > significant voltage difference on two leads that I might guess matter. > But > > still decoding and reverse engineering everything. > > > > On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 5:20 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > > > >> Hi > >> > >> According to table 1-2 in: > >> > >> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf < > >> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq-eimb.pdf> > >> > >> The URQ-9 and URQ-10 both were rated for 0 to 50C. > >> > >> Per: > >> > >> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf < > >> http://www.navy-radio.com/freq/urq23-MIL-T-28816.pdf> > >> > >> The URQ-23 was rated for 0 to 50C > >> > >> I’d say it’s a pretty likely that the URQ-13 was rated to operate over > >> 0 to 50C. It went into the same locations and did the same thing as the > >> other devices. > >> > >> Bob > >> > >> > >>> On Feb 12, 2021, at 1:07 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> wrote: > >>> > >>> Well there is no doubt someone has been deep into this unit. Hint > missing > >>> screws internally. > >>> But appears both heater windings are ok. > >>> So inner and outer oven has a new meaning. I typically understood this > to > >>> be one oven in another oven. Think the HP CS units of old. The same in > >>> other places HP3801. > >>> But in the URQ13 it means there is a long tube. The Dewar flask. The > >> inner > >>> is deep into the flask and the outer is close to the opening. Two > >>> completely separate heaters. Under the outer heater I will guess is the > >>> actual oscillator for the 5 MHz. Further out from the outer heater are > >> the > >>> offset variable caps thermistor for the outer oven a pot and IC. > >>> Several screws hold this outer heater on and considering the risk of > >> taking > >>> out the remainders to look and draw a schematic. > >>> Regards > >>> Paul > >>> > >>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:28 AM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> > wrote: > >>> > >>>> Yes Bob they could get hot. But the radio rooms I have been in circa > >> 1970s > >>>> were all air conditioned from destroyers to aircraft carriers. Shirt > >>>> sleeve. The best place to actually be when we were down by the equator > >> was > >>>> the radio room, ET shop, CIC and radar and just maybe the Captain's > >>>> stateroom. But if you were actually there you might still be sweating. > >>>> Chuckle. > >>>> This conversation has given me some good insights. Later today I will > >>>> disable the outer oven. Just curious to see what possible temps might > >> show > >>>> up. Is the inner oven simply reading outer oven leakage. Is there a > >> lead I > >>>> can measure the current of the inner oven.... > >>>> Thanks > >>>> > >>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> Hi > >>>>> > >>>>> If it’s 105F “outdoors” that’s 40C. Military gear back in the days of > >> the > >>>>> URQ10 > >>>>> did not live in air conditioned enclosures. It did get deployed to > >> places > >>>>> with > >>>>> temperatures at or above that level. > >>>>> > >>>>> If it’s 40C outdoors, by the time you get to a pile of electronics > gear > >>>>> *indoors*, > >>>>> a >10C rise is pretty likely. That drives a very common 50C “upper > end” > >>>>> temperature > >>>>> on ground gear in relatively benign installations. > >>>>> > >>>>> This does not just apply to military gear. If you look through test > >>>>> equipment > >>>>> catalogs, a lot of test gear also has the same sort of 50 to 60C > upper > >>>>> end spec. > >>>>> The 5065A has a spec of 0 to 50C. The 5061A has the same spec. Both > >>>>> targeted > >>>>> pretty “normal” environments …. ( = they never get below freezing …) > >> and > >>>>> date > >>>>> to the “era” of the URQ10. > >>>>> > >>>>> In this era of HVAC everywhere, the 5071A has a temp range of 0 to > 55C. > >>>>> If > >>>>> anything, this would suggest that things still can get pretty hot. > >>>>> > >>>>> Bob > >>>>> > >>>>>> On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:29 AM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> > wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Bob > >>>>>> OK there is the math. and that all starts to line up. > >>>>>> So most likely for other URQ units there will be an ambient max in > the > >>>>>> spec's. At least on the URQ10 in real life even in the hot tropics > the > >>>>>> radio room was shirt sleeve temps. > >>>>>> But the question asked was 110 F correct as measured on the outside > of > >>>>> the > >>>>>> outer oven against the dewar flask correct. It isn't. The darn thing > >> is > >>>>>> reasonably stable though. > >>>>>> Since the front panel test switch is not labeled I speculate that > the > >>>>>> position for the outer oven is in the normal range. The next switch > >>>>>> position most likely is inner and is not in the correct position. It > >>>>> slowly > >>>>>> moves to the high side. > >>>>>> No real details on anything and a total guess. > >>>>>> Really appreciate the thoughts. > >>>>>> Regards > >>>>>> Paul > >>>>>> WB8TSL > >>>>>> > >>>>>> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:18 AM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>>> Hi > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> Indeed the outer oven (as a minimum) needs to be 5 to 10 C above > >>>>>>> the maximum ambient. If it’s not it goes out of regulation (runs > >> away) > >>>>>>> and you loose any benefit from it. ( = it now works against you ). > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> The inner oven as a minimum needs to be 5 to 10 C above the outer > >>>>>>> oven. Again if it is lower, you can / will get into the same > runaway > >>>>>>> issue. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> Those offsets are dependent on the way things are insulated. If you > >> are > >>>>>>> using a dewar flask, 5C is probably not going to work for you. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> Your inner oven *also* is impacted by the turn temperature on the > >>>>> crystal > >>>>>>> being used. This *might* have a 20C range. That would put the > maximum > >>>>>>> inner oven temperature at 10 + 10 + 20 = 40C above the maximum > >> ambient. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> Needless to say, if the max ambient is 85C, this will get the inner > >>>>> oven > >>>>>>> components up pretty hot. That’s not a real good idea. Derating the > >>>>> heater > >>>>>>> is pretty easy, derating *everything* in there is much more > complex. > >>>>> You > >>>>>>> do not often see 85C upper end double ovens …. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> One *could* also ask: “is all this worth it?”. List members *have* > >>>>> written > >>>>>>> papers addressing that point :) > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> Bob > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 10:05 PM, Paul Alfille < > paul.alfille@gmail.com> > >>>>>>> wrote: > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Shouldn't the outer oven be cooler than the inner oven except > during > >>>>>>>> warmup? I would think the inner electronics would be generating > >> heat. > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Paul Alfille K1PHA > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 9:30 PM paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> > >>>>> wrote: > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> 50C is what I have sort of seen over the years. Just wondered > could > >>>>>>> there > >>>>>>>>> have been a lower temp version. That made no sense. But then this > >>>>> beast > >>>>>>> has > >>>>>>>>> never made a lot of sense. The $20 mystery from Frequency > >>>>> Electronics. > >>>>>>>>> Thanks Bob > >>>>>>>>> Paul > >>>>>>>>> WB8TSL > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:08 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> wrote: > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> Hi > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> Even for an outer oven, anything below 60C / 140F would be low > >>>>> enough > >>>>>>> to > >>>>>>>>>> run into significant problems. On a mil device, an upper end > >>>>>>> temperature > >>>>>>>>>> on > >>>>>>>>>> the equipment likely would be over 70C. The outer oven would > need > >>>>> to be > >>>>>>>>>> 5 to 10C above that. > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> Bob > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 5:55 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> > >>>>> wrote: > >>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> OK I have had several responses and 110F is low as I expected. > >>>>>>>>>>> Wonder if I am being faked out? Perhaps by an inner oven and I > am > >>>>> only > >>>>>>>>>>> reading the outside of the outer oven. The Older URQ10 and > newer > >>>>> URQ23 > >>>>>>>>> do > >>>>>>>>>>> have 2 ovens. The meter switch for test is only labeled 1-9. no > >>>>> other > >>>>>>>>>> clues > >>>>>>>>>>> to the function. I noticed 2 positions change with warm up. > Sort > >> of > >>>>>>>>>>> supports the 2 oven theory. > >>>>>>>>>>> Really do not want to take what might be the outer oven off to > >> put > >>>>> the > >>>>>>>>>>> probe in. > >>>>>>>>>>> Thanks everyone. > >>>>>>>>>>> Paul > >>>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL > >>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Bob kb8tq <kb8tq@n1k.org> > wrote: > >>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>>> Hi > >>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>>> 110 F makes very little sense unless you are in a very cold > >>>>> climate. > >>>>>>>>>>>> For military gear (or any gear for that matter) 43C on the > oven > >>>>> just > >>>>>>>>>>>> doesn’t work. > >>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>>> 110 C would make sense in a very high temperature environment. > >>>>>>>>>>>> (think of 85C upper end ….). > >>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>>> Bob > >>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>>>> On Feb 11, 2021, at 2:18 PM, paul swed <paulswedb@gmail.com> > >>>>> wrote: > >>>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>>>> Hello to the group. > >>>>>>>>>>>>> I have had a AN/URQ-13 or FE-15a oven oscillator for years. > >>>>>>>>>>>>> Its never worked correctly and in reality some early alpha > >> build. > >>>>>>>>>> (Funny > >>>>>>>>>>>>> that its labeled 15a) > >>>>>>>>>>>>> Looking online there is no documentation that I have been > able > >> to > >>>>>>>>> find > >>>>>>>>>>>> over > >>>>>>>>>>>>> the years. > >>>>>>>>>>>>> However in another discussion on a AN/URQ-23 that does have a > >>>>> manual > >>>>>>>>>> and > >>>>>>>>>>>>> schematics I realized my guesses on power could be totally > >> wrong. > >>>>>>>>> Using > >>>>>>>>>>>>> voltages like the URQ23 the URQ13 actually behaves fairly > >> well. I > >>>>>>> was > >>>>>>>>>>>> lucky > >>>>>>>>>>>>> that I didn't destroy something with my original guess. > >>>>>>>>>>>>> That said what I find odd is the internal crystal oven runs > at > >>>>>>>>> exactly > >>>>>>>>>>>> 110 > >>>>>>>>>>>>> degrees. Its repeatably warms to that level with a range of > >>>>> supply > >>>>>>>>> from > >>>>>>>>>>>> +/- > >>>>>>>>>>>>> 12-15V. > >>>>>>>>>>>>> Does 110 degrees F make any sense at all? > >>>>>>>>>>>>> Thank you > >>>>>>>>>>>>> Paul > >>>>>>>>>>>>> WB8TSL > >>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>>>>>>>>> > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>>>>>>>>> > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to > >>>>> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>>>> and follow the instructions there. > >>>>> > >>>> > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >>> To unsubscribe, go to > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >>> and follow the instructions there. > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > >> To unsubscribe, go to > >> http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > >> and follow the instructions there. > >> > > _______________________________________________ > > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > > To unsubscribe, go to > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > > and follow the instructions there. > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > http://lists.febo.com/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts_lists.febo.com > and follow the instructions there. >
EB
ed breya
Sat, Feb 13, 2021 3:50 AM

Well, 40 C is fairly close to 110 F. Maybe this is a special model
intended only for indoor, controlled room conditions - or outdoor, cold
climate only. Why? I dunno, but I can guess. Having both heaters set to
the same temperature makes sense, so the open end being the same as
inside would neutralize the differential. So, the question is what's the
temperature supposed to be. Really. Or, what was it used for? Really.

You have two labels there that seem close together, and close to what
you measure. Instead of assuming it's busted, assume it's right for now,
and think about what that could have been practically used for, and why
it may not have been necessary or desirable to use a "standard" kind.
Are there any date codes indicating the era? There's a good chance the
opamp has one.

Ed

Well, 40 C is fairly close to 110 F. Maybe this is a special model intended only for indoor, controlled room conditions - or outdoor, cold climate only. Why? I dunno, but I can guess. Having both heaters set to the same temperature makes sense, so the open end being the same as inside would neutralize the differential. So, the question is what's the temperature supposed to be. Really. Or, what was it used for? Really. You have two labels there that seem close together, and close to what you measure. Instead of assuming it's busted, assume it's right for now, and think about what that could have been practically used for, and why it may not have been necessary or desirable to use a "standard" kind. Are there any date codes indicating the era? There's a good chance the opamp has one. Ed