Someone a while back made the observation that a "dry wall router" with a "very dull" 1/8th inch drill bit could be used to clean out caulking when re-doing teak decks. I had never heard of such a router but have come to believe that they were talking about a rotozip type tool. Can the rotozip be used for such purposes? Is there a better "dry wall router" around for re-doing teak decks? dick jurgensen ---------- > From: Thataway@aol.com > To: trawler-world-list@samurai.com > Subject: Re: Rotozip Tool > Date: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 11:33 AM > > I own a rotozip tool. I have used it mostly on dry wall and some on plaster > and tile. It works well for its designed applications. I have also used it > on fiberglass. I find that on tougher materials that the saber saw or > sawzall is better. The problem with the rotozip is that the bearings are not > designed for heavy side loading, and that the cooling is marginal. I have > had to disassemble mine several times to clean out the interior, the cooling > blades began hitting the housing and I had to make slight modifications. For > really heavy grinding I find an air driven die grinder much better. They are > in expensive (about $19) run cool and have lots of power. Mine air grinder > has colletts for 1/8 and 1/4 bits. Also the air grinder speed is > controlable. Only problem is you need a decent compressor and tank. I first > used one at the shipyard which has air at each stall. I liked it so much I > got a 5 hp compressor with 15 gallon tank (I do use many other air tools now). > Bob Austin > Symbol 42 > Pensacola, FL