TWL: Inoperative "Y" Valves
I have two "Y" valves in my single head waste system that have not been
operated for at least four years ( the Albin 32+2 is 8 years old). One
valve is from head and controls "direct overboard" or "holding tank". The
other valve is the holding tank output and controls "pumpout to deck" or
"pumpout overboard thru macerator pump". In getting the boat ready for a
planned trip north this summer, I have attempted to operate both valves with
no success. Both are stuck in the "holding tank" and "pumpout to deck"
positions. The head is an electric one with built-in macerator pump.
Will a treatment of white vinegar or something stronger like muriatic acid
free them up? If so, how much, how often, etc?
Or, do I force the valves until they either free up or break and then
replace the valves? The "Y" valves are heavy plastic models on 120 degrees
centers that mount to the hull. I hate to mess with the system as it is a
good, dry, odorless one to date.
I guess I could (should) leave well enough alone and trust that functional
pumpout stations will be available from Charleston to Mount Desert Island
and back! Comments would be appreciated. Are you still here Peggy?
Nelson Hicks
Albin 32+2 "Victory"
Charleston, SC
Or, do I force the valves until they either free up or break and then
replace the valves? The "Y" valves are heavy plastic models on 120 degrees
centers that mount to the hull. I hate to mess with the system as it is a
good, dry, odorless one to date.
I guess I could (should) leave well enough alone and trust that functional
pumpout stations will be available from Charleston to Mount Desert Island
and back! Comments would be appreciated. Are you still here Peggy?
Nelson Hicks
Albin 32+2 "Victory"
Charleston, SC
Nelson,
I don't think I would trust in the availability of pump outs
totally, I mean if you get into a spot where you cannot locate one you are
going to be in "deep s--t", literally. Have not had any experience with
the plastic valves, I would assume they might be Marlon? If it were me I
would get them either freed up, you can try soaking them in a solution of
vinegar or a weak acid solution to see if that works, but I that does not
work then put an equalizer on them in the form of a piece of pipe for
leverage. If you don't get them functional or if they break in the process
I would replace them with new valves. New valves are not that expensive
and the combination of stuck y-valves and a full holding tank with no pump
out facility would ruin your whole day!
Jim Alexander
Port Charlotte, FL
I have two "Y" valves in my single head waste system that have not been
operated for at least four years ( the Albin 32+2 is 8 years old). One
valve is from head and controls "direct overboard" or "holding tank". The
other valve is the holding tank output and controls "pumpout to deck" or
"pumpout overboard thru macerator pump".
Do you need the second ("pumpout to deck or pumpout overboard")? On my
last boat I had a 1 1/2 inch black ABS 'Y' with one leg leading
directly to the deck cap and the other going thru a plastic open/closed
valve to a manual pump and then overboard. With the valve closed we
could pump thru the deck and with the valve open and deck cap on we
could pump overboard. I realize this is still two valves but we never
had any trouble with the open/closed valve while the (Rule) diverter
valve needed attention every couple of years. Worked for us.
Gregg McKay
First Look (Tolly 37)
Victoria, BC
Yep, I'm still here. :)
Y-valves, seacocks and human bodies have at least one thing in common:
they both need regular exercise and lubrication or they develop
expensive health problems. If you haven't used the y-valves, it prob'ly
means the seacocks haven't been used either...have you checked to see
they're frozen too?
Both are certain to need lubrication badly...your y-valves are most
likely also so encrusted with sea water minerals etc that it's unlikely
you'll be able to free 'em up without removing 'em, if at all. Forcing
won't work, you'll only break them.
You can try a 12% solution of muriatic acid in water...but IMO,
replacement is the only really viable solution. That may also apply to
the seacocks.
From Charleston north to ME, pumpouts are hard to find except in MD,
even in RI, which has statewide "no discharge." So unless you're
planning to stay "outside" at sea instead of going up the Chesapeake,
you can't legally dump the tank OR get out to sea beyond the "3 mile
limit" to dump the tank between Norfolk and the DE canal. That's the bad
news. The good news is, there aren't any "no discharge" waters of any
size of consequence till you do get to RI...only two very small
ones--Herring Bay and the Northern Coastal Bay--in the whole
Chesapeake...none that can't be easily avoided in DE and NJ...quite a
few in MA, but most of ME is not...and neither are the SC coastal
waters, including Charleston.
So if I were you, I'd install a Lectra/San--Type I MSD that treats waste
and discharges it overboard legally. You'll need one working
y-valve--to allow you to choose between flushing overboard through L/S
or into the tank where you have to--and a working seacock.
And in the future, be sure to work all your valves and seacocks at least
once month, just to "exercise" 'em.
Peggie
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_rid_of_boat_odors.html
If you DO have to replace them, I'd recommend Whale valves. IMHO, they're
the only ones I've found that were worth a... well, you know...
Keith
__
Database administrators do it with their relations
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nelson Hicks" nelsonhicks@comcast.net
Or, do I force the valves until they either free up or break and then
replace the valves?
Thanks to all who responded to my recent query. I put together ideas from
all of you and have the system working well again. Not the nicest job but
if I don't have to do it for another 8 years that is fine.
I did not bother with the muriatic acid treatment as it probably would not
help, as was suggested. I bought a hard rubber hammer that helped free the
valves a little. I ended up installing service kits in both the Forespar
"Y" valves and they both now operate fine. Today I finished the project by
installing a service kit in the Jabsco macerator pump and now it works
great. Now I can effectively pump from head overboard or to holding tank;
and pump the holding tank to deck pumpout or overboard thru the macerator
pump.
Thanks again to all who helped; another fine example of the quality of
service on this List.
Nelson Hicks