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M&
Maurice & Louise-Ann on AKAMA
Wed, Nov 9, 2005 4:55 AM

Hi Joe,

We have been experimenting for several years with SC Johnson Future (aka
Klear outside of Canada/US) "floor polish".  This is a polymer coating
with an ammonia base, intended for vinyl flooring, not boats.  It is not
a wax.  We've tried putting it on with a damp cloth and with a foam
brush.  The cloth results in uneven but smooth application.  The brush
results in runs until you learn that a little goes a long way.  The
ammonia begins to flsh off fairly quickly, especially on a sunny/hot
day, so you don't go back over your work (i.e., do it like varnish).  We
will one day try with a roller and with an artificial chamois (like they
recommend for Newglass).  The secret is to get an even thin coat on (it
is as runny as water).

Here is our experience to date:
--One coat on white fibreglass in full sun (top of pilothouse).  Brought
the gloss back slightly and sealed the fibreglass but the slight shine
lasted only about 6 months.
--Two coats on similar area.  Brought the gloss up well and lasted about
9 to 12 months.  Some spots still glossy two years later.
--Two coats on grey fibreglass vertical surface in partial sun
(pilothouse sides).  Sealed and gave fair gloss.  Lasted over a year.
--Three coats on same surface.  Gave very nice gloss and lasted nearly
two years.

Failure mode for this stuff is good, as it does not seem to yellow much
unless it is applied very heavily.  It just disappears over time, first
in the areas where it is thinnest and gradually throughout the treated
area.  It looks pretty crummy if you let it go, as you end up with
streaks that are still gloss and streaks where it goes back to
dull/chalky.

The destructions on the bottle this say that it cleans off with ammonia
based detergent cleaner.  We have tried this on some streaky areas and
it does work, very, very slowly, requiring several applications and a
lot of rubbing.  It is a lot of work.  Probably better to just recoat
before you need to, just like with varnish.

Frankly, if our boat were not so danged big we'd have it painted, but
the budget just won't allow.  Also, we live aboard full time and would
have to find a place to live while the work was being done...we don't
relish the thought.

Try a patch on your boat and see how it goes.  If you do, use a chamois
with a backing block and let us know how it goes on that way.

Maurice & Louise-Ann
KK Whaleback #2

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe W [mailto:cruiser6003@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, 09 November 2005 16:28
To: Trawlers-n-Trawlering
Subject: Re: T&T: Newglass

Snip...I would strongly recommend owners to stay away from acrylic based
snake oil cures. They rank right up there with magnetic fuel bug
'killers'...endsnip

Wow, the response from everybody agreed... "do NOT use" .

Part 2 same question: Would it make a difference if I said the boat is
under full cover (ie no UV exposure) 6 days a week? In other words, is
it a timebased breakdown, or UV based?

If still a no go, then the question remains....what do I use on my very
clean but glossless and dry topsides? Would like to seal it against
staining, give a shine (some) and keep the footing positive.

Joel Wilkins
m/v Jolly Mon
St Pete, FL


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Hi Joe, We have been experimenting for several years with SC Johnson Future (aka Klear outside of Canada/US) "floor polish". This is a polymer coating with an ammonia base, intended for vinyl flooring, not boats. It is not a wax. We've tried putting it on with a damp cloth and with a foam brush. The cloth results in uneven but smooth application. The brush results in runs until you learn that a little goes a long way. The ammonia begins to flsh off fairly quickly, especially on a sunny/hot day, so you don't go back over your work (i.e., do it like varnish). We will one day try with a roller and with an artificial chamois (like they recommend for Newglass). The secret is to get an even thin coat on (it is as runny as water). Here is our experience to date: --One coat on white fibreglass in full sun (top of pilothouse). Brought the gloss back slightly and sealed the fibreglass but the slight shine lasted only about 6 months. --Two coats on similar area. Brought the gloss up well and lasted about 9 to 12 months. Some spots still glossy two years later. --Two coats on grey fibreglass vertical surface in partial sun (pilothouse sides). Sealed and gave fair gloss. Lasted over a year. --Three coats on same surface. Gave very nice gloss and lasted nearly two years. Failure mode for this stuff is good, as it does not seem to yellow much unless it is applied very heavily. It just disappears over time, first in the areas where it is thinnest and gradually throughout the treated area. It looks pretty crummy if you let it go, as you end up with streaks that are still gloss and streaks where it goes back to dull/chalky. The destructions on the bottle this say that it cleans off with ammonia based detergent cleaner. We have tried this on some streaky areas and it does work, very, very slowly, requiring several applications and a lot of rubbing. It is a lot of work. Probably better to just recoat before you need to, just like with varnish. Frankly, if our boat were not so danged big we'd have it painted, but the budget just won't allow. Also, we live aboard full time and would have to find a place to live while the work was being done...we don't relish the thought. Try a patch on your boat and see how it goes. If you do, use a chamois with a backing block and let us know how it goes on that way. Maurice & Louise-Ann KK Whaleback #2 -----Original Message----- From: Joe W [mailto:cruiser6003@yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, 09 November 2005 16:28 To: Trawlers-n-Trawlering Subject: Re: T&T: Newglass Snip...I would strongly recommend owners to stay away from acrylic based snake oil cures. They rank right up there with magnetic fuel bug 'killers'...endsnip Wow, the response from everybody agreed... "do NOT use" . Part 2 same question: Would it make a difference if I said the boat is under full cover (ie no UV exposure) 6 days a week? In other words, is it a timebased breakdown, or UV based? If still a no go, then the question remains....what do I use on my very clean but glossless and dry topsides? Would like to seal it against staining, give a shine (some) and keep the footing positive. Joel Wilkins m/v Jolly Mon St Pete, FL _______________________________________________ http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers-and-trawlering To unsubscribe send email to trawlers-and-trawlering-request@lists.samurai.com with the word UNSUBSCRIBE and nothing else in the subject or body of the message. Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
DS
Dan Stone
Wed, Nov 9, 2005 12:08 PM

-----Original Message-----
From: trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com
[mailto:trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com] On Behalf Of
Kevin Redden
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 9:21 PM
To: Trawlers & Trawlering List
Subject: Re: T&T: Newglass

-----Original Message-----
I've heard similar horror stories from others, not only about NG, but
also Vertglas and other similar products.

Yep - I too have a similar horror story. The PO of my boat had used a
similar product, PoliGlow, on the hull.....

I had the same situation, Poliglow put on the hull by the PO.  It went
on to yellow and flake, looking terrible.  Used 3-M Adhesive Remover to
get it off.  It involved mega- man hours. I hired that job out and found
only one person who would touch it. Interestingly, a couple of popular
local boat detailing companies wanted no part of the project, having
"been there, done that, never again".

Dan Stone
M/V Slow Dance
Albin 43
St. Petersburg, FL

-----Original Message----- From: trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com [mailto:trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Redden Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 9:21 PM To: Trawlers & Trawlering List Subject: Re: T&T: Newglass > -----Original Message----- > I've heard similar horror stories from others, not only about NG, but > also Vertglas and other similar products. Yep - I too have a similar horror story. The PO of my boat had used a similar product, PoliGlow, on the hull..... I had the same situation, Poliglow put on the hull by the PO. It went on to yellow and flake, looking terrible. Used 3-M Adhesive Remover to get it off. It involved mega- man hours. I hired that job out and found only one person who would touch it. Interestingly, a couple of popular local boat detailing companies wanted no part of the project, having "been there, done that, never again". Dan Stone M/V Slow Dance Albin 43 St. Petersburg, FL
K
Keith
Wed, Nov 9, 2005 2:21 PM

My current boat was "chalky" when I bought it. We compounded with 3m's brown
rubbing compound, then their white polishing compound, then waxed with
Collinite fleetwax paste wax. About 3 repetitions of this at maybe 9 month
intervals finally brought it back to "new" condition. I've used this
combination for years with great success. Once you get the gloss back, the
Collinite will last 9 months to a year in full sun exposure; it's great
stuff. By the way, get the 3m compounds anywhere but a boat store. I buy
mine from an online automotive body shop supply place:
http://www.autobodydepot.net.
Here's a link directly to the Finesse-it white polishing compound at that
site: http://tinyurl.com/8rkrw

If this regime doesn't work, about the only thing left to do is paint the
topsides, an expensive proposition.

Keith


Documentation; The worst part of programming.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe W" cruiser6003@yahoo.com

If still a no go, then the question remains....what do I use on my very
clean but glossless and dry topsides? Would like to seal it against
staining, give a shine (some) and keep the footing positive.

My current boat was "chalky" when I bought it. We compounded with 3m's brown rubbing compound, then their white polishing compound, then waxed with Collinite fleetwax paste wax. About 3 repetitions of this at maybe 9 month intervals finally brought it back to "new" condition. I've used this combination for years with great success. Once you get the gloss back, the Collinite will last 9 months to a year in full sun exposure; it's great stuff. By the way, get the 3m compounds anywhere but a boat store. I buy mine from an online automotive body shop supply place: http://www.autobodydepot.net. Here's a link directly to the Finesse-it white polishing compound at that site: http://tinyurl.com/8rkrw If this regime doesn't work, about the only thing left to do is paint the topsides, an expensive proposition. Keith _____ Documentation; The worst part of programming. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe W" <cruiser6003@yahoo.com> > > If still a no go, then the question remains....what do I use on my very > clean but glossless and dry topsides? Would like to seal it against > staining, give a shine (some) and keep the footing positive.