Does openscad take a .dxf as input?
Theres what looks like a usefull involute gear generator that outputs in .dxf
format on thingiverse. Is there a conversion method?
Thank you.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
Import the DXF and linear extrude it?
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 11:33, gene heskett gheskett@shentel.net wrote:
Theres what looks like a usefull involute gear generator that outputs in
.dxf
format on thingiverse. Is there a conversion method?
Thank you.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
On 16.12.21 12:33, gene heskett wrote:
Theres what looks like a usefull involute gear generator that outputs in .dxf
format on thingiverse. Is there a conversion method?
The other option would be to use an actual OpenSCAD module
generating the gears.
Just one example:
https://github.com/revarbat/BOSL2/wiki/gears.scad
ciao,
Torsten.
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 7:01:25 AM EST nop head wrote:
Import the DXF and linear extrude it?
Can I then modify it with scale, rotate, translate etc? That would be ideal
as a foundation for a new, very high ratio planetary drive. We are exploring
different ways to make a harmonic type drive but much shorter axially on the
emc list. Unforch, my printer is down and fedex is sitting on repair parts
from CZ. I got a notice late yesterday that due to logistics, it would NOT
arrive this Friday. But no new date was given. Grrrrrr.
One should treat the part cooling nozzle on a Prusa MK3S as expendable, the
close proximity to the hot block makes it very easily broken when removing it
for wrench access to re-tighten the nozzle, which WILL come loose and leak
eventually under the 240C temps of PETG. At a bit over $2 per, I bought a
dozen so I'd have them on hand along with a bag of the square nuts that mount
it. Other than that, and a titanium heat break, the Prusa MK3S is a Just Works
printer for roll after roll of PETG, I've fed it 8 rolls so far. And I have a
room full of other printers that can't survive 1/4 roll of PETG.
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 11:33, gene heskett gheskett@shentel.net wrote:
Theres what looks like a usefull involute gear generator that outputs in
.dxf
format on thingiverse. Is there a conversion method?
Thank you.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
I have had problems with that part of my Prusa MK3S also, and always
keep a few spares printed and available.
On 12/16/2021 8:03 AM, gene heskett wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 7:01:25 AM EST nop head wrote:
Import the DXF and linear extrude it?
Can I then modify it with scale, rotate, translate etc? That would be ideal
as a foundation for a new, very high ratio planetary drive. We are exploring
different ways to make a harmonic type drive but much shorter axially on the
emc list. Unforch, my printer is down and fedex is sitting on repair parts
from CZ. I got a notice late yesterday that due to logistics, it would NOT
arrive this Friday. But no new date was given. Grrrrrr.
One should treat the part cooling nozzle on a Prusa MK3S as expendable, the
close proximity to the hot block makes it very easily broken when removing it
for wrench access to re-tighten the nozzle, which WILL come loose and leak
eventually under the 240C temps of PETG. At a bit over $2 per, I bought a
dozen so I'd have them on hand along with a bag of the square nuts that mount
it. Other than that, and a titanium heat break, the Prusa MK3S is a Just Works
printer for roll after roll of PETG, I've fed it 8 rolls so far. And I have a
room full of other printers that can't survive 1/4 roll of PETG.
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 8:30:05 AM EST jon wrote:
I have had problems with that part of my Prusa MK3S also, and always
keep a few spares printed and available.
That is made of PC, which I don't have any of. I did buy a roll of PP but not
even magigoo-pp will make it stick to the Prusa bed, its loose by the time the
brim is half done.
Does anybody know the magic spell?
Thank you.
[...]
One should treat the part cooling nozzle on a Prusa MK3S as expendable,
the
close proximity to the hot block makes it very easily broken when removing
it for wrench access to re-tighten the nozzle, which WILL come loose and
leak eventually under the 240C temps of PETG. At a bit over $2 per, I
bought a dozen so I'd have them on hand along with a bag of the square
nuts that mount it. Other than that, and a titanium heat break, the Prusa
MK3S is a Just Works printer for roll after roll of PETG, I've fed it 8
rolls so far. And I have a room full of other printers that can't survive
1/4 roll of PETG.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
I believe that Prusa makes the parts out of PETG, and I use their PETG
to make the parts. I treat them as consumables.
Jon
On 12/16/2021 9:04 AM, gene heskett wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 8:30:05 AM EST jon wrote:
I have had problems with that part of my Prusa MK3S also, and always
keep a few spares printed and available.
That is made of PC, which I don't have any of. I did buy a roll of PP but not
even magigoo-pp will make it stick to the Prusa bed, its loose by the time the
brim is half done.
Does anybody know the magic spell?
Thank you.
[...]
One should treat the part cooling nozzle on a Prusa MK3S as expendable,
the
close proximity to the hot block makes it very easily broken when removing
it for wrench access to re-tighten the nozzle, which WILL come loose and
leak eventually under the 240C temps of PETG. At a bit over $2 per, I
bought a dozen so I'd have them on hand along with a bag of the square
nuts that mount it. Other than that, and a titanium heat break, the Prusa
MK3S is a Just Works printer for roll after roll of PETG, I've fed it 8
rolls so far. And I have a room full of other printers that can't survive
1/4 roll of PETG.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
To print PP you have to stick a sheet of adhesive backed PP film on the
bed. PP only sticks to itself.
The company I bought PP filament from sent PP film sheets with it.
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 14:14, jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:
I believe that Prusa makes the parts out of PETG, and I use their PETG
to make the parts. I treat them as consumables.
Jon
On 12/16/2021 9:04 AM, gene heskett wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 8:30:05 AM EST jon wrote:
I have had problems with that part of my Prusa MK3S also, and always
keep a few spares printed and available.
That is made of PC, which I don't have any of. I did buy a roll of PP
but not
even magigoo-pp will make it stick to the Prusa bed, its loose by the
time the
brim is half done.
Does anybody know the magic spell?
Thank you.
[...]
One should treat the part cooling nozzle on a Prusa MK3S as expendable,
the
close proximity to the hot block makes it very easily broken when
removing
it for wrench access to re-tighten the nozzle, which WILL come loose
and
leak eventually under the 240C temps of PETG. At a bit over $2 per, I
bought a dozen so I'd have them on hand along with a bag of the square
nuts that mount it. Other than that, and a titanium heat break, the
Prusa
MK3S is a Just Works printer for roll after roll of PETG, I've fed it 8
rolls so far. And I have a room full of other printers that can't
survive
1/4 roll of PETG.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
I printed the Prusament Polycarbonate blend on a textured sheet with
glue stick. And my understanding is the glue stick was so I could get
the model off, not to get it to stay on. Had no problems at all with
adhesion. Nop head, I don't think polycarbonate and polypropylene
have at all similar properties. Note, however, that I thought the
nozzle on the MK3S was printed in ABS, not PC.
On Thu, Dec 16, 2021 at 9:19 AM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:
To print PP you have to stick a sheet of adhesive backed PP film on the bed. PP only sticks to itself.
The company I bought PP filament from sent PP film sheets with it.
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 14:14, jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:
I believe that Prusa makes the parts out of PETG, and I use their PETG
to make the parts. I treat them as consumables.Jon
On 12/16/2021 9:04 AM, gene heskett wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 8:30:05 AM EST jon wrote:
I have had problems with that part of my Prusa MK3S also, and always
keep a few spares printed and available.
That is made of PC, which I don't have any of. I did buy a roll of PP but not
even magigoo-pp will make it stick to the Prusa bed, its loose by the time the
brim is half done.Does anybody know the magic spell?
Thank you.
[...]
One should treat the part cooling nozzle on a Prusa MK3S as expendable,
the
close proximity to the hot block makes it very easily broken when removing
it for wrench access to re-tighten the nozzle, which WILL come loose and
leak eventually under the 240C temps of PETG. At a bit over $2 per, I
bought a dozen so I'd have them on hand along with a bag of the square
nuts that mount it. Other than that, and a titanium heat break, the Prusa
MK3S is a Just Works printer for roll after roll of PETG, I've fed it 8
rolls so far. And I have a room full of other printers that can't survive
1/4 roll of PETG.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Yes, polypropylene and polycarbonate are completely different plastics. I
was replying to
I did buy a roll of PP but not even magigoo-pp will make it stick to the
Prusa bed, its loose by the time the brim is half done.
I print PC on glass with glue stick to make it stick. I think it is PETG
that needs it more for release as it can stick too well.
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 14:32, Adrian Mariano avm4@cornell.edu wrote:
I printed the Prusament Polycarbonate blend on a textured sheet with
glue stick. And my understanding is the glue stick was so I could get
the model off, not to get it to stay on. Had no problems at all with
adhesion. Nop head, I don't think polycarbonate and polypropylene
have at all similar properties. Note, however, that I thought the
nozzle on the MK3S was printed in ABS, not PC.
On Thu, Dec 16, 2021 at 9:19 AM nop head nop.head@gmail.com wrote:
To print PP you have to stick a sheet of adhesive backed PP film on the
bed. PP only sticks to itself.
The company I bought PP filament from sent PP film sheets with it.
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 14:14, jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:
I believe that Prusa makes the parts out of PETG, and I use their PETG
to make the parts. I treat them as consumables.
Jon
On 12/16/2021 9:04 AM, gene heskett wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 8:30:05 AM EST jon wrote:
I have had problems with that part of my Prusa MK3S also, and always
keep a few spares printed and available.
That is made of PC, which I don't have any of. I did buy a roll of PP
but not
even magigoo-pp will make it stick to the Prusa bed, its loose by the
time the
brim is half done.
Does anybody know the magic spell?
Thank you.
[...]
One should treat the part cooling nozzle on a Prusa MK3S as
expendable,
the
close proximity to the hot block makes it very easily broken when
removing
it for wrench access to re-tighten the nozzle, which WILL come
loose and
leak eventually under the 240C temps of PETG. At a bit over $2 per,
I
bought a dozen so I'd have them on hand along with a bag of the
square
nuts that mount it. Other than that, and a titanium heat break, the
Prusa
MK3S is a Just Works printer for roll after roll of PETG, I've fed
it 8
rolls so far. And I have a room full of other printers that can't
survive
1/4 roll of PETG.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
I use hair spray on my Prusa MK3S print bed both to increase adhesion
and to allow parts to separate (the hair spray is water soluble, so
worst case is that you let the water dissolve the hair spray)
On 12/16/2021 9:54 AM, nop head wrote:
I print PC on glass with glue stick to make it stick. I think it is
PETG that needs it more for release as it can stick too well.
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 9:54:48 AM EST nop head wrote:
Yes, polypropylene and polycarbonate are completely different plastics. I
was replying to
I did buy a roll of PP but not even magigoo-pp will make it stick to the
Prusa bed, its loose by the time the brim is half done.
I print PC on glass with glue stick to make it stick. I think it is PETG
that needs it more for release as it can stick too well.
But I can't put glass on the prusa, its too thick for the inductive bed sensor
to work as it measures to the coated steel sheet.
Thanks nop-head.
[...]
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
Perhaps use a thin sheet of steel with PP film stuck to that then. It
doesn't really matter what is under the film. I just use glass because that
is what I normally print on because it is flat.
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 15:16, gene heskett gheskett@shentel.net wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 9:54:48 AM EST nop head wrote:
Yes, polypropylene and polycarbonate are completely different plastics. I
was replying to
I did buy a roll of PP but not even magigoo-pp will make it stick to
the
Prusa bed, its loose by the time the brim is half done.
I print PC on glass with glue stick to make it stick. I think it is PETG
that needs it more for release as it can stick too well.
But I can't put glass on the prusa, its too thick for the inductive bed
sensor
to work as it measures to the coated steel sheet.
Thanks nop-head.
[...]
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 10:04:26 AM EST jon wrote:
I use hair spray on my Prusa MK3S print bed both to increase adhesion
and to allow parts to separate (the hair spray is water soluble, so
worst case is that you let the water dissolve the hair spray)
I raided the bathroom collection my departed wife left me with, but didn't find
anything that seemed to have adhesive qualities.
Does that stuff die in the can?
Some of it, she didn't seem to have a favorite, must have been 15+ years old.
On 12/16/2021 9:54 AM, nop head wrote:
I print PC on glass with glue stick to make it stick. I think it is
PETG that needs it more for release as it can stick too well.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
On Thu, Dec 16, 2021 at 03:18:14PM +0000, nop head wrote:
Perhaps use a thin sheet of steel with PP film stuck to that
then. It doesn't really matter what is under the film. I just use
glass because that is what I normally print on because it is flat.
Thin sheets of stainless steel can be bought at PCB manufacturers like
JLCPCB, Elecrow or Allpcb. They call it "stencil", but with a bit of
prodding they will ship you 0.12 or 0.15mm thick steel sheets. (when
you order below 20x20cm JLC will change how they pack it and that
makes a big difference in shipping costs!). You'll have to add a note
that "no lasercut holes are necessary" otherwise they think you've
made a mistake. (still they think you're a fool, but at least you get
your stuff).
Roger.
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 15:16, gene heskett gheskett@shentel.net wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 9:54:48 AM EST nop head wrote:
Yes, polypropylene and polycarbonate are completely different plastics. I
was replying to
I did buy a roll of PP but not even magigoo-pp will make it stick to
the
Prusa bed, its loose by the time the brim is half done.
I print PC on glass with glue stick to make it stick. I think it is PETG
that needs it more for release as it can stick too well.
But I can't put glass on the prusa, its too thick for the inductive bed
sensor
to work as it measures to the coated steel sheet.
Thanks nop-head.
[...]
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
--
** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ ** +31-15-2049110 **
** Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ Delft, The Netherlands. KVK: 27239233 **
f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is going down
your a is going up. -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the space shuttle.
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 10:18:14 AM EST nop head wrote:
Perhaps use a thin sheet of steel with PP film stuck to that then. It
doesn't really matter what is under the film. I just use glass because that
is what I normally print on because it is flat.
I had adhesion probs with a creality ender 3, a 5 and a cr10 I finally solved
with a glass plate, ditto a CR10 pro V2 and its textured glass bed. I bought
but never got to try, something called PEI, 1mm thick if the film is stripped
from both sides, and they came with big sheets of 3M 468 sticky film.
Is any of that useful with PolyProp?
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
I use Suave Extreme Hold UnScented in a red spray can.
On 12/16/2021 10:27 AM, gene heskett wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 10:04:26 AM EST jon wrote:
I use hair spray on my Prusa MK3S print bed both to increase adhesion
and to allow parts to separate (the hair spray is water soluble, so
worst case is that you let the water dissolve the hair spray)
I raided the bathroom collection my departed wife left me with, but didn't find
anything that seemed to have adhesive qualities.
Does that stuff die in the can?
Some of it, she didn't seem to have a favorite, must have been 15+ years old.
On 12/16/2021 9:54 AM, nop head wrote:
I print PC on glass with glue stick to make it stick. I think it is
PETG that needs it more for release as it can stick too well.
PP doesn't stick to PEI, most other filaments do. It only sticks to itself
as far as I know.
The glue that comes on the back of the PP film must stick to it, so perhaps
if you coat your bed with that it will stick.
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 16:11, jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:
I use Suave Extreme Hold UnScented in a red spray can.
On 12/16/2021 10:27 AM, gene heskett wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 10:04:26 AM EST jon wrote:
I use hair spray on my Prusa MK3S print bed both to increase adhesion
and to allow parts to separate (the hair spray is water soluble, so
worst case is that you let the water dissolve the hair spray)
I raided the bathroom collection my departed wife left me with, but
didn't find
anything that seemed to have adhesive qualities.
Does that stuff die in the can?
Some of it, she didn't seem to have a favorite, must have been 15+ years
old.
On 12/16/2021 9:54 AM, nop head wrote:
I print PC on glass with glue stick to make it stick. I think it is
PETG that needs it more for release as it can stick too well.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
On 12/16/2021 10:27 AM, gene heskett wrote:
Some of it, she didn't seem to have a favorite, must have been 15+
years old.
... does it die in the can? ...
I bought stuff that is supposedly rebranded hairspray for 3D printing.
The first bottle I bought seems to have lost effectiveness. I'm on the
second can even though the first can seems to be ejecting something,
and is not yet empty. So my answer: Could be!
Roger.
--
** R.E.Wolff@BitWizard.nl ** https://www.BitWizard.nl/ ** +31-15-2049110 **
** Delftechpark 11 2628 XJ Delft, The Netherlands. KVK: 27239233 **
f equals m times a. When your f is steady, and your m is going down
your a is going up. -- Chris Hadfield about flying up the space shuttle.
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 11:10:40 AM EST jon wrote:
I use Suave Extreme Hold UnScented in a red spray can.
You realize I hope, that by the time I get to CVS, or wallies, it will be New,
and Improved, and in a burgundy can? 😒 Marketing changes are at least monthly.
The product in the can, maybe 20 years.
I just found another, different can of aussie mousse I'll try when I get a
working printer again. Claims to be extra firm all day hold. If its got any
squirt left...
Thanks Jon.
On 12/16/2021 10:27 AM, gene heskett wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 10:04:26 AM EST jon wrote:
I use hair spray on my Prusa MK3S print bed both to increase adhesion
and to allow parts to separate (the hair spray is water soluble, so
worst case is that you let the water dissolve the hair spray)
I raided the bathroom collection my departed wife left me with, but didn't
find anything that seemed to have adhesive qualities.
Does that stuff die in the can?
Some of it, she didn't seem to have a favorite, must have been 15+ years
old.>
On 12/16/2021 9:54 AM, nop head wrote:
I print PC on glass with glue stick to make it stick. I think it is
PETG that needs it more for release as it can stick too well.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 11:16:17 AM EST nop head wrote:
PP doesn't stick to PEI, most other filaments do. It only sticks to itself
as far as I know.
The glue that comes on the back of the PP film must stick to it, so perhaps
if you coat your bed with that it will stick.
I'm not sure how that 3M film works, its only sticky on one side, stuck to the
plastic coat on the steel sheet, its dead smooth on the other side, and
doesn't say what the film itself is made of. The separate 1mm thick PEI sheet
has a peelable film on both sides, but no glue that I could detect by peeling
a corner of the film loose on both sides.
Maybe I should ask Prusa how to use PolyProp?
A net search shows only advice from Simplify3d, which I don't have, but I've
printed the advice. Seems that packing tape is made from PP, I assume the tan
stuff but I have clear. If I can remember it, I'll get another bed sheet fom
Prusa the next time I have to order something from them. Then I'll cut one of
these 310x310 sheets down to stick on one side of the old one, and cover the
other side in non-overlapping packing tape. Simplify also notes a several
layer (6) raft can be helpful, as is a 45 to 60C heated enclosure.
The reason for the interest in PP is its harder than TPU, while still being
flexible, and might be just the ticket for the loose belt in a 2nd generation
harmonic drive. The solid section at the bottom of the spline could be double
or tripled in thickness, improving its ultimate sheer strength, that while
making the spines longer, should allow a truly bulletproof drive to be made.
The increased axial length is easily adjusted for in the Drives axle pulley
print.
It seems to me that a reduction in axle pulley teeth, currently 83 and an
increase in the drives present output pulley, currently 23, should at some
point result in a tight fitting belt w/o a tensioning idler setup there really
isn't room for w/o enclosing the current output face with a wall to hang the
idler on. There is not such a wall in the current model as that output disk is
nearly full diameter and turns as the output pulley carrier. Another thought
comes to mind, that of making the bearing ball grooves directly in the
eccentric armatures outer surface, and printing the outer race in PP. flex
failure of that race was observed once but another half a mm thicker and it
has not repeated. But that race and the loose belt are the first 2 potential
failure points. Since the motor runs hot, I've slowed it to around 350 rpm,
but its still running since the middle of September, no failure. Output disk
is about 5 seconds a rev.
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 16:11, jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:
I use Suave Extreme Hold UnScented in a red spray can.
On 12/16/2021 10:27 AM, gene heskett wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 10:04:26 AM EST jon wrote:
I use hair spray on my Prusa MK3S print bed both to increase adhesion
and to allow parts to separate (the hair spray is water soluble, so
worst case is that you let the water dissolve the hair spray)
I raided the bathroom collection my departed wife left me with, but
didn't find
anything that seemed to have adhesive qualities.
Does that stuff die in the can?
Some of it, she didn't seem to have a favorite, must have been 15+ years
old.
On 12/16/2021 9:54 AM, nop head wrote:
I print PC on glass with glue stick to make it stick. I think it is
PETG that needs it more for release as it can stick too well.
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Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 12:11:49 PM EST Rogier Wolff wrote:
On 12/16/2021 10:27 AM, gene heskett wrote:
Some of it, she didn't seem to have a favorite, must have been 15+
years old.
... does it die in the can? ...
I bought stuff that is supposedly rebranded hairspray for 3D printing.
The first bottle I bought seems to have lost effectiveness. I'm on the
second can even though the first can seems to be ejecting something,
and is not yet empty. So my answer: Could be!
Roger.
The local evidence seems to agree. No mixing balls can be heard in 2 cans, and
no shake well instructions are on the cans. With a mixing ball, I'd expect
shake well instructions. Might say aussie in big print, says P&G in the fine
print.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
Just get the cheapest hairspray you can, and the strongest - you may
have the equivalent of 'the pound shop' . Some folk use a glue stick
(pritt/whatever) I could never get it on smooth enough. A useful chart
wrt properties
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/properties-table/
You realise you can get different stiffness grades of tpu. I bought some
cheap Ziro tpu filament, says it's Shore A 95. E-sun have a tpe with
Shore 83A, but often no information is given (and even if it is, no
guarantee of accuracy, I expect.
On 16/12/2021 19:49, gene heskett wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 12:11:49 PM EST Rogier Wolff wrote:
On 12/16/2021 10:27 AM, gene heskett wrote:
Some of it, she didn't seem to have a favorite, must have been 15+
years old.
... does it die in the can? ...
I bought stuff that is supposedly rebranded hairspray for 3D printing.
The first bottle I bought seems to have lost effectiveness. I'm on the
second can even though the first can seems to be ejecting something,
and is not yet empty. So my answer: Could be!
Roger.
The local evidence seems to agree. No mixing balls can be heard in 2 cans, and
no shake well instructions are on the cans. With a mixing ball, I'd expect
shake well instructions. Might say aussie in big print, says P&G in the fine
print.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
There is a big difference between TPU and PP. TPU's are rubbery whereas PP
is slippery and flexible. It doesn't compress when squeezed or stretch when
pulled, like TPU does.
On Thu, 16 Dec 2021 at 22:54, Raymond West raywest@raywest.com wrote:
Just get the cheapest hairspray you can, and the strongest - you may have
the equivalent of 'the pound shop' . Some folk use a glue stick
(pritt/whatever) I could never get it on smooth enough. A useful chart wrt
properties
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/properties-table/
You realise you can get different stiffness grades of tpu. I bought some
cheap Ziro tpu filament, says it's Shore A 95. E-sun have a tpe with
Shore 83A, but often no information is given (and even if it is, no
guarantee of accuracy, I expect.
On 16/12/2021 19:49, gene heskett wrote:
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 12:11:49 PM EST Rogier Wolff wrote:
On 12/16/2021 10:27 AM, gene heskett wrote:
Some of it, she didn't seem to have a favorite, must have been 15+
years old.
... does it die in the can? ...
I bought stuff that is supposedly rebranded hairspray for 3D printing.
The first bottle I bought seems to have lost effectiveness. I'm on the
second can even though the first can seems to be ejecting something,
and is not yet empty. So my answer: Could be!
Roger.
The local evidence seems to agree. No mixing balls can be heard in 2 cans, and
no shake well instructions are on the cans. With a mixing ball, I'd expect
shake well instructions. Might say aussie in big print, says P&G in the fine
print.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
On Thursday, December 16, 2021 5:54:21 PM EST Raymond West wrote:
Just get the cheapest hairspray you can, and the strongest - you may
have the equivalent of 'the pound shop' . Some folk use a glue stick
(pritt/whatever) I could never get it on smooth enough. A useful chart
wrt properties
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/properties-table/
You guys are keeping my printer wam tonight, thanks
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene