I have heard but not yet tried it, that you can restore teak (decks at
least) with a solution of water, joy, and ammonia.
You can't really restore teak decks in the sense that you get them back
to the way they were when new. You can get them back to looking like
new, but every method of doing this involves removing some of the wood.
The chemical teak "restorers" do their job by chemically removing the
top layers of cells in the wood. So the end result is the same as
sanding-- wood goes away.
Oiling teak decks looks nice (at first) but it's a disaster in the
making. As Bob Lowe pointed out, some kinds of oils can attack some
kinds of seam sealants, which will result in a truly amazing mess.
Also, the oil will hold dirt. You may think, so what, the decks are
getting dirty all the time anyway. True enough, but the difference is
when the teak is "plain," the dirt washes off. When the teak is oiled,
the dirt doesn't wash off. Eventually what happens is your shoes become
sanding blocks as you walk around on the deck grinding this dirt into
the wood. Your decks won't go away overnight, of course, but every bit
of wood that goes away never comes back.
The problem is compounded by the fact that teak (actually all wood, I
guess) is composed of softer and harder sections. The softer wood will
wear away much faster then the harder wood. This is why you should
never scrub teak decking with the grain. Always go across the grain. A
brush will scoop out minute portions of the softer wood if you scrub
with the grain. This creates an almost microscopic valley. Over time,
with cleaning, weathering, and just plain wear, these valleys will
slowly grow deeper and wider as the soft wood continues to wear away
faster than the surrounding harder wood. Eventually they become
visible, and they'll continue to grow.
Most of you have probably seen weathered teak that is furrowed with
irregular grooves, some of them quite deep. This is not the wood
splitting, but is what it looks like when soft wood erosion becomes
extreme. Yes, you can sand the furrows out, but doing so will remove a
fair amount of wood from the whole deck and so you're that much closer
to footing the bill for a replacement.
The proper care and feeding of a teak deck is described in many places.
What I've learned from talking to shipwrights and reading a few of the
better books and articles on the subject is that the best thing you can
do for a teak deck is wash it periodically in salt water and Lemon Joy.
Everyone mentions Joy because it suds up nicely in cold saltwater. I
guess not too many soaps will. One of the best things to use for
washing the deck is a plain old cotton mop. The "string" kind your
school janitor used to use.
The mop washing removes the dirt but is very easy on the wood. For a
more thorough cleaning of the deck, to remove stains or bird "stuff," or
stubborn dirt, use the same saltwater-Lemon Joy mixture, but scrub the
deck LIGHTLY with a doodlebug. Doodlebugs are easier on the wood than a
brush. Make sure you go across the grain. The doodlebug will remove
ground-in dirt and will also remove some of the top layer of wood cells.
So if your decks have gone silver-gray like they're supposed to, the
doodlebug will bring back a hint of the color, but it won't last long.
DO NOT think the doodlebug is a way to get nice, teak-colored decks back
again. You can do it if your scrub hard enough, but you'll be getting
that color the same way as you would with sandpaper or chemicals--
you'll be removing the top surface of the wood..
All this may make it sound like teak is the worst deck material on the
planet, but in fact it's one of the best. It's easy on the feet and it
doesn't get slippery when wet. And taking care of it is actually very
easy. As long as it properly cared for, a good teak deck will last for
decades. Our 30-year old boat has its original deck, a deck that for
its first 25 years sat baking in the California sun. And it's been
subjected to multiple sandings by previous owners. By the time we got
it, most of the seam sealant had failed, and half the plugs were
missing. There are some soft-wood erosion valleys here and there, but
the wood still has a lot of life left in it. We had the seams recut and
re-sealed and we've just about caught up with all the missing plugs.
No, it doesn't look nearly as nice as a brand new deck. But it looks
pretty darn good, and as long as I keep washing it every so often it
should last for a long, long time.
So if you have a teak deck, don't oil it, don't varnish it, don't Cetol
it, and for God's sake, NEVER powerwash it. Wash it with clean
saltwater and Joy every now and then, and it will be happy.
C. Marin Faure
GB36-403 "La Perouse"
Bellingham, Washington