I got this friend downtown.  I'll ask him what he does.

On Nov 29, 2007 10:44 AM, Jim Barrentine jbarrentine@ipa.net wrote:

Jim Barrentine wrote:

What would be the advantage? Sure you can plug a replacement into it,
after you crimp the new end on the pump, but now  you've got a recipe
for corrosion. Why not use a heat shrink butt splice? It'll be more
secure, corrosion-proof, and in the long run probably less trouble.
They'll cost less too. I don't have my copy of the ABYC standard, but if
my memory serves me right, I don't believe the spade disconnect
terminals meet the standard, but I could be mistaken. Sometimes less is
more. <G>

But if you insist on using spade connectors, try terminaltown.com
http://terminaltown.com/ for all kinds of connectors.

Steve Sipe
Solo 4303 "Maerin"
Chesapeake Bay

i've used male/female disconnect crimp connectors, but they can either be
too loose or too tight

my favorite connectors are european style "dominoes".    dont' know if you
cna find them here.  they come in a variety of sizes, wires are secured with
screws, i'v never seen one come off.  If you have 2 or 3 wires (H, N, G) you
can leave the connectors attached together/isolated.

it's the standard stuff used over there, even in AC 220v house wiring, much
better than the wing nuts connectors find in homes (and unfortunately in
some boats...)

pascal

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Barrentine" jbarrentine@ipa.net
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 10:44 AM
Subject: T&T: 12 Volt connectors

On many boats (including mine), most pumps are located in the engine room,
and/or down near (or in) the bilge. As such, corrosion is a major concern
since the vast majority of electrical failures are due to corrosion of a
connection. Because of this, I only wire my pumps with adhesive lined,
shrink wrapped butt splices, to ensure there is no avenue for corrosion at
the connection. To get a good crimp, I use a ratcheting crimper, not the
cheap garbage type low cost crimpers that look like pliers.

Would an easy to use connector be nice? It sure would - provided that it
didn't introduce a weak point for corrosion to take out the pump. As such,
I've voted for reliability over convenience, and I forego the connectors.

Kevin
www.BoatMoves.com

I like to "hard wire" where ever I can.  I use solder and shrink tube.  This
minimizes any corrosion problems with connectors.  Leave enough slack in the
line to be able to cut and resolder if the line is attached to a pig tail on
the pumps.  It really does not take any longer to solder connections than to
do the crimps - well not much longer and you are usually not replacing on a
regular basis.

Vance Nelson
Superior Dreams GB32-340
Houghton, MI 49931

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Barrentine" jbarrentine@ipa.net
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 10:44 AM
Subject: T&T: 12 Volt connectors

An easy alternative to quick disconnect terminals is a screw connector
terminal strip located in a spot convenient to the pump, but "high and dry",
also sprayed with corrosion resistant coating of choice.  Has worked for me
for years.

When I acquire a spare pump I just put the appropriate connectors on its
leads, with heat shrink.  Replacement is then very quick and easy.

Dan Stone
M/V Slow Dance
Albin 43
St. Petersburg, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com
[mailto:trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com] On Behalf Of
Vance Nelson
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 12:59 PM
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com; Jim Barrentine
Subject: Re: T&T: 12 Volt connectors

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9:11 PM

I don't have my copy of the ABYC standard, but if

REPLY
Steve you are correct.
The push on connectors are rated 10A max and most bilge pumps are fused for
15A

In other words  the connectors may be over loaded and will fail sooner
rather than later.

Arild

Jim Barrentine

Dan answered:

Hi Jim.
I've done the same thing that Dan has, with the terminal strips. You can
locate them high enough to get to without standing on your head (usually),
keep the connections out of the wet depths of the bilge,  and it's a simple
task to loosen 3 screws and swap out the three wires. I've converted all my
pumps to these type of connections as I've had to either replace pumps, add
pumps, or just clean up someone else's wiring mess. You're also not having
to cut and recrimp the wires on the boat side, which will eventually lead to
these wires being too short. As far as soldering the wires, my understanding
is that it is a bad idea where the connection is subject to vibration, which
is just about anywhere on a boat!  Just my thoughts.

Brent Hodges
Albin 43 Sundeck
Seabrook, Tx